COSMETIC SERUM COMPOSITION WITH A HIGH ACTIVE INGREDIENT CONCENTRATION

Abstract

HIGH-ACTIVE COSMETIC SERUM COMPOSITION: A water-based composition in a cosmetically acceptable carrier that includes acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine stabilized by the inclusion of hydroxyethyl urea in the absence of other solvents. The composition is stable, as evidenced by the absence of crystal formation visible to the naked eye, and the absence of visually perceptible crystal formation at room temperature from approximately 25°C to approximately 37°C and after 10 days of freeze-thaw cycles from -20°C to 20°C. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: HIGH ACTIVE COSMETIC SERUM COMPOSITION DOMAIN

[0001] This disclosure relates to skincare compositions that include high amounts of skin actives, together with one or more additional actives, including, but not limited to, antioxidants. In particular, the compositions include acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine and processes for solubilizing it with a stabilizer, hydroxyethyl urea, which prevents the crystallization of acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine and / or other actives to preserve the benefits of the actives on keratinous tissues, for example, the skin. context of the invention

[0002] Skin treatment products typically include active compounds, but many active compounds present difficulties in terms of solubility, stability, and / or maintenance of efficacy, particularly over time and across a wide range of storage or usage temperatures. It is known, in particular, that certain actives, such as N-acylaminoamide compounds, including, for example, acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine, are difficult to stabilize even at low concentrations to maintain activity over a typical product shelf life.

[0003] In some examples, there are anhydrous compositions disclosed in the art that include acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine at relatively high concentrations in the presence of one, two, or more solubilizing solvents, such as ethoxydiglycol, dimethylisosorbide, triethyl citrate, isopropyl lauryl sarcosinate, and propylene glycol. However, such compositions do not necessarily provide a cosmetic delivery system that meets a consumer's needs, particularly for a leave-on composition or one that includes water-soluble actives and other ingredients that are not compatible with a predominantly anhydrous delivery system. Therefore, there remains a need to deliver larger quantities of acylaminoamide compounds, including, for example, acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine actives, in order to meet consumer expectations regarding efficacy. BRIEF SUMMARY

[0004] The inventors have provided a solution to the deficiencies in the art mentioned above, the solution comprising a cosmetic composition which includes a high concentration of acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine as well as other optional active ingredients stabilized in a water-based vector system.

[0005] In a first embodiment, the disclosure proposes a composition that includes:

[0006] (a) of acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine, present at a concentration of approximately 0.5% and up to about 2%;

[0007] (b) of hydroxyethyl urea present at a rate of approximately 4.5% to approximately 18%;

[0008] (c) a cosmetically acceptable vector comprising water; and

[0009] (d) optionally, one or more additives

[0010] in which all percentages by weight are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0011] In some embodiments, the composition exhibits stability as evidenced by the absence of crystal formation visible to the naked eye, and the absence of visually perceptible crystal formation at an ambient temperature of about 25 °C to about 37 °C after freeze-thaw cycles from -20 °C to 20 °C over a period of 10 days.

[0012] In some embodiments, the composition may demonstrate stability when crystals are observed at a temperature of 4°C or lower; these crystals disappear with or without gentle agitation within 24 hours of reaching an ambient temperature between approximately 25°C and approximately 37°C, or after freeze-thaw cycles from -20°C to 20°C, or from -15°C to 25°C. In some embodiments, the composition may demonstrate stability for a period of up to eight (8) weeks.

[0013] In various embodiments, the composition has a pH in the range of approximately 4.5 to approximately 6.5. In some particular embodiments, the composition has a pH of approximately 4.7 to approximately 5, with acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine present at a concentration of approximately 0.5% to approximately 1%. In some particular embodiments, the composition has a pH of approximately 6, with acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine present at a concentration greater than approximately 1% and up to approximately 2% or less than 2%. In various embodiments, the pH can be corrected by the inclusion of hydroxyethyl urea and the addition of pH adjusters, for example, but not limited to, potassium hydroxide.

[0014] In certain specific embodiments, the disclosure proposes a composition that includes:

[0015] (a) of acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine, present at a level of approximately 1%;

[0016] (b) of hydroxyethyl urea, present at a rate of approximately 23%;

[0017] (c) a cosmetically acceptable vector comprising water; and

[0018] (d) optionally, one or more additives

[0019] wherein the composition has a pH in a range of approximately 4.7 to approximately 5, and in which all percentages by weight are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0020] In certain particular embodiments, the disclosure proposes a composition which includes;

[0021] (a) acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine present at approximately 2% in weight of the composition;

[0022] (b) hydroxyethyl urea present at a concentration of approximately 4.5% to approximately 11.7%, by weight of the composition;

[0023] (c) the cosmetically acceptable vector present at a level of approximately 30% at approximately 70%, by weight of the composition; and

[0024] (d) other optional ingredients present at a rate of approximately 0.001% to approximately 20% by weight of the composition.

[0025] In some embodiments, water is present at a rate of about 10% to about 75%, by weight of the composition.

[0026] In some embodiments, the composition also includes one or more additives, chosen from the group consisting of one or more fatty compounds; one or more thickening agents; surfactants; other additives and one or more skin-active agents; and combinations of the above.

[0027] In certain embodiments, the optional additive(s) are chosen from the group consisting of pH adjusters, chelating agents, skin care actives, preservatives, fillers, powders, perfumes, dyes, pigments, and combinations thereof.

[0028] In some embodiments, the optional additive(s) are selected from the group consisting of ethylhexylglycerin, pentylene glycol, carbomer, methyl gluceth-20, Bis-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethylsilane, sodium benzoate, sodium hydroxide, phenoxyethanol, taurine, adenosine, hydroxyethylpiperazine ethanesulfonic acid, niacinamide, and combinations thereof. In some embodiments, the optional additive(s) each include ethylhexylglycerin, pentylene glycol, carbomer, methyl gluceth-20, Bis-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethylsilane, sodium benzoate, sodium hydroxide, phenoxyethanol, taurine, adenosine, hydroxyethylpiperazine ethanesulfonic acid, and niacinamide.

[0029] In some embodiments, the composition is single-phase and essentially oil-free.

[0030] In some embodiments, the composition includes at least one humectant, surfactant, or water-dispersible silicone. In some embodiments, the composition includes at least one of the following: methyl gluceth-20, and Bis-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethyl silane.

[0031] In some embodiments, the composition excludes one or more ingredients chosen from the group consisting of water-soluble solvents chosen from the group consisting of monoalcohols and polyols, diols, glycols, glycol ethers and their combinations.

[0032] In certain embodiments, the composition excludes one or more ingredients selected from the group consisting of ethoxydiglycol, dimethyl isosorbide, triethyl citrate, isopropyl lauryl sarcosinate, propylene glycol, propanediol and their combinations.

[0033] In certain embodiments, the composition excludes or is essentially free from ingredients selected from the group consisting of parabens, phthalates, cyclomethicones, perfume, silicone, mineral oil, synthetic dyes, gelling agents, sulfates, polyquatemium, microplastics, EDTA, silicone oils, mineral UV filtering agents, organic UV filtering agents, and combinations thereof.

[0034] In some embodiments, the composition may include only nominal amounts of petroleum-based ingredients or may be free of petroleum-based ingredients.

[0035] In certain specific embodiments, the disclosure proposes a composition which includes:

[0036] (a) of acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine, present at a level of approximately 2%;

[0037] (b) of hydroxyethyl urea present at a rate of approximately 4.5% to approximately 18%;

[0038] (c) a cosmetically acceptable vector comprising water; and

[0039] (d) optionally, one or more additives.

[0040] wherein all percentages by weight are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, and wherein the composition demonstrates stability as evidenced by the absence of crystal formation that is visible to the naked eye, and an absence of visually perceptible crystal formation at an ambient temperature of about 25 °C to about 37 °C and after 10 days of freeze-thaw cycles from -20 °C to 20 °C, and wherein the composition excludes one or more ingredients selected from the group consisting of ethoxydiglycol, dimethyl isosorbide, triethyl citrate, isopropyl lauryl sarcosinate, propylene glycol, propanediol, or combinations thereof.In some embodiments, the composition may demonstrate stability when crystals are observed at a temperature of 4°C or lower; these crystals disappear with or without gentle agitation within 24 hours of reaching an ambient temperature of approximately 25°C to approximately 37°C, or after freeze-thaw cycles from -20°C to 20°C, or from -15°C to 25°C. In some embodiments, the composition may demonstrate stability for a period of up to eight (8) weeks.

[0041] In certain particular embodiments, the disclosure proposes a composition which includes:

[0042] (a) of acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine, present at a level of approximately 2%;

[0043] (b) of hydroxyethyl urea present at a rate of approximately 4.5% to approximately 18%;

[0044] (c) a cosmetically acceptable vector comprising water; and

[0045] (d) optionally, one or more additives comprising methyl gluceth-20 or Bis-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethylsilane.

[0046] wherein all percentages by weight are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, and wherein the composition demonstrates stability as evidenced by the absence of crystal formation that is visible to the naked eye, and the absence of visually perceptible crystal formation at an ambient temperature of about 25°C to about 37°C and after 10 days of freeze-thaw cycles from -20°C to 20°C, and wherein the composition excludes one or more ingredients selected from the group consisting of ethoxydiglycol, dimethyl isosorbide, triethyl citrate, isopropyl lauryl sarcosinate, propylene glycol, propanediol, or combinations thereof.In some embodiments, the composition may demonstrate stability when crystals are observed at a temperature of 4°C or lower; these crystals disappear with or without gentle agitation within 24 hours of reaching an ambient temperature of approximately 25°C to approximately 37°C, or after freeze-thaw cycles from -20°C to 20°C, or from -15°C to 25°C. In some embodiments, the composition may demonstrate stability for a period of up to eight (8) weeks.

[0047] In another embodiment, the disclosure proposes methods for preparing the inventive composition, and methods for providing skin care by applying the inventive composition to the skin.

[0048] These and other aspects of the invention are specified in the attached claims and described in the detailed description of the invention.

[0049] This disclosure describes exemplary embodiments in accordance with the general concepts of the invention and is not intended to limit the scope of the invention in any way. Indeed, the invention as described in the specification is broader than and not limited by the exemplary embodiments presented herein, and the terms used herein have their full ordinary meaning.

[0050] It must be understood that the preceding general description and the following detailed description are only exemplary and explanatory and not restrictive of the disclosure. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0051] In this application, the terms "keratinous substrate" and "keratinous tissue" each include, but are not limited to, skin, hair and nails.

[0052] The terms "cosmetically acceptable vector" mean a vector that is compatible with any keratinous substrate and, for the purposes of this document, includes water and optionally water-based solvents, subject to all exclusions described herein.

[0053] In this document, the term "serum" refers to a hydrophilic liquid composition formulated for topical application. A serum may optionally be free or substantially free of one or more oils, including an emollient, a wax, and a silicone oil.

[0054] The terms "stable" and "stability" used with reference to the disclosed composition mean that the composition does not exhibit crystal formation that is visible to the naked eye, and does not exhibit visually perceptible crystal formation over a period, for example, one, two, four, or five days, or over a period of one or more weeks, and for example, up to eight (8) weeks. In some examples, when crystals are viewed at a temperature of 4°C or lower, these crystals disappear with or without slight agitation within 24 hours of reaching an ambient temperature of approximately 25°C to approximately 37°C and after freeze-thaw cycles from -20°C to 20°C.The exemplified embodiments of the inventive composition shown in the examples in this document have demonstrated stability at an ambient temperature of approximately 25°C to approximately 37°C after freeze-thaw cycles over a period of 10 days from -20°C to 20°C. In some embodiments, the composition may demonstrate stability when crystals are observed at a temperature of 4°C or lower; these crystals disappear with or without gentle agitation within 24 hours of reaching an ambient temperature of approximately 25°C to approximately 37°C, or after freeze-thaw cycles from -20°C to 20°C, or from -15°C to 25°C. In some embodiments, the composition may demonstrate stability for a period of up to eight (8) weeks.

[0055] The limited solubility of acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine has presented challenges for its use in cosmetic products, particularly those in which high amounts of active ingredients are desirable. This document proposes an inventive composition in the context of a cosmetically acceptable carrier in which acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine is formulated to be stabilized by the inclusion of hydroxyethyl urea. As described in more detail herein and as exemplified in the non-limiting examples, hydroxyethyl urea provides stabilization at a range of concentrations to allow the inclusion of acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine as at least one active ingredient in amounts from about 0.5% to about 2%, and hydroxyethyl urea is present at a concentration of about 4% to less than 27%. from about 4% up to about 26.5%, or from about 4.5% up to about 25%, or from about 4.5% up to about 23.4%, or from about 4.5% up to about 18%, or from about 4.5% up to about 17.55%, or from about 4.5% up to about 11.7%, or from about 11.7% up to about 23.4%, or from about 11.7% up to about 18%, all quantities being by weight of composition.

[0056] The inventors have proposed a composition in which the combination of acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine with hydroxyethyl urea allows stable solubilization and storage of a cosmetic composition with relatively high amounts of acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine.

[0057] In various embodiments, the composition has a pH in the range of approximately 4.5 to approximately 6.5. In some particular embodiments, the composition has a pH of approximately 4.7 to approximately 5, with acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine present at a concentration of approximately 0.5% to approximately 1%. In some of these embodiments, hydroxyethyl urea is present at a concentration range of approximately 18% to approximately 30%, and in one example, hydroxyethyl urea is present at a concentration of less than approximately 27%, the pH being able to be corrected using a pH adjuster. In some particular embodiments, the composition has a pH of approximately 6, with acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine present at a concentration greater than approximately 1% and up to approximately 2% or less than 2%.In some of these embodiments, hydroxyethyl urea is present at a concentration in the range of approximately 18% to approximately 30%, and in one example, hydroxyethyl urea is present at a concentration in the range of approximately 4.5% to approximately 23.4%, with the pH being correctable using a pH adjuster. In various embodiments, the pH can be corrected by the inclusion of hydroxyethyl urea and the addition of pH adjusters, for example, but not limited to, potassium hydroxide.

[0058] In some of these embodiments, hydroxyethyl urea is present at a concentration in a range of about 18% to about 30%, and in one example, hydroxyethyl urea is present at a concentration of about 23%, the pH being able to be corrected using a pH corrector.

[0059] In certain particular embodiments, the composition does not include any of the following: ethoxydiglycol, dimethyl isosorbide, triethyl citrate, isopropyl lauryl sar-cosinate, propylene glycol, propanediol.

[0060] In various embodiments, the disclosure proposes a composition that includes:

[0061] (a) acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine, present at approximately 0.5% and up to about 2%;

[0062] (b) of hydroxyethyl urea, present at a level of approximately 4% and up to approximately 26.5% and less than 27%;

[0063] (c) water; and

[0064] (d) optionally, one or more additives,

[0065] in which all percentages by weight are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0066] The cosmetic composition may optionally include additional ingredients selected from the group consisting of water-soluble solvents which exclude ethoxydiglycol, dimethyl isosorbide, triethyl citrate, isopropyl lauryl sar-cosinate, propylene glycol, propanediol or combinations thereof; one or more fatty compounds; one or more thickening agents; other ingredients and one or more skin-active agents; and combinations of the above. N-acylamino amide

[0067] In accordance with the various embodiments, an N-acylamino amide, and in more specific embodiments, acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine, is present in the inventive composition. In the various embodiments, acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine is present in a range of approximately 0.5% and up to approximately 2% by weight of the composition.

[0068] With reference to U.S. Patent 6,987,128, which claims priority over FR 0 007 344 A, the entirety of which is incorporated herein by reference, a new family of compounds in the N-acylamino-amide family has been disclosed for use on the skin of the body or face to treat the effects of aging, whether chronobiological or induced by light, and in particular skin aging caused by decreased skin elasticity and / or degradation of collagen in the tissue structure.

[0069] The present inventive composition includes the use of a compound from the N-acylamino-amide family, in certain specific and exemplified embodiments, acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine, present in a range from about 0.5% up to about 2% by weight of the composition.

[0070] Thus, in various embodiments, the compound of the N-acylamino-amide family, in certain specific and exemplified embodiments, acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine is present by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, from about 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1.0, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9, to about 2.0 percent, including intermediate increments and ranges. Hydroxyethyl urea

[0071] In accordance with the various embodiments, hydroxyethyl urea is present in the inventive composition. In some embodiments, the composition does not include any derivative of hydroxyethyl urea, or of urea, or any derivative of urea. which is not hydroxyethyl urea.

[0072] In the various embodiments, hydroxyethyl urea is present in a range from about 4% to less than 27%, by weight of the composition, or from about 4% to about 26.5%, or from about 4.5% to about 25%, or from about 4.5% to about 23.4%, or from about 4.5% to about 18%, or from about 4.5% to about 17.55%, or from about 4.5% to about 11.7%, or from about 11.7% to about 23.4%, or from about 11.7% to about 18%. In some embodiments, hydroxyethyl urea is present in the composition at a concentration of approximately 4% to approximately 5%, or approximately 11% to approximately 12%, or approximately 17% to approximately 18.5%, or approximately 22% to approximately 25%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range, or subrange thereof by weight relative to the weight of the composition. A person with ordinary skill in the art, however, will appreciate that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention.

[0073] As exemplified in this document, hydroxyethyl urea is supplied in a raw material which has a concentration of active hydroxyethyl urea of ​​approximately 45%, by weight of the raw material.

[0074] Thus, in various embodiments, hydroxyethyl urea is present by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, from about 4, 4.5, 5, 5.5, 6, 6.5, 7, 7.5, 8, 8.5, 9, 9.5, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, up to about 26.5 percent and less than 27 percent, including intermediate increments and ranges. Cosmetically acceptable vector

[0075] In accordance with the various embodiments, the compositions include a cosmetically acceptable vector. The total amount of the cosmetically acceptable vector in the compositions can be from about 30% to about 70%, by weight of the total composition. Thus, the cosmetically acceptable vector is present, by weight of the total composition, from about 30, 40, 45, 50, 55, 60, 65, to about 70 percent, by weight, including increments and intermediate ranges. A person with ordinary skill in the art, however, will appreciate that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention.

[0076] The cosmetically acceptable carrier includes water present in a range of approximately 10% to approximately 80%, and in some embodiments, from approximately 20% to approximately 75%, and in some embodiments, from approximately 30% to approximately 70%, and in some embodiments, from approximately 45% to 100%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range, or subrange thereof, by weight relative to the weight of the composition. A person with ordinary competence in the art, however, will understand that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention. Thus, water is present, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, at a ratio of from approximately 20, 25, 30, 35, 40, 45, 50, 55, 60, 65, 70, 75, 80 to approximately 90 percent, by weight, including the increments and ranges in between. A person with ordinary competence in the art, however, will understand that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention.

[0077] The water used may be sterile demineralized water and / or floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or linden water, and / or natural thermal or mineral water such as, for example, Vittel water, Vichy basin water, Uriage water, La Roche Posay water, La Bourboule water, Enghien-les-Bains water, Saint Gervais-les-Bains water, Néris-les-Bains water, Allevar-les-Bains water, Digne water, Maizières water, Neyrac-les-Bains water, Lons-le-Saunier water, Eaux Bonnes water, Rochefort water, Saint Christau water, water from the Fumades, Tercis-les-Bains water or Avène water. The aqueous phase may also include reconstituted thermal water, that is to say water containing trace elements such as zinc, copper, magnesium, etc., reconstituting the characteristics of thermal water.

[0078] The pH of the composition, particularly the aqueous phase, can be adjusted before combining the oil phase with the aqueous phase to avoid the practical difficulty of measuring the pH in an internal aqueous phase of the water-in-oil emulsion. In various embodiments, the pH is a physiologically acceptable pH. In some embodiments, the pH of the aqueous phase before emulsification can be corrected with pH adjusters to a pH in a range of about 3 to about 9, or about 5 to about 7.5 by adding a base (organic or inorganic) to the composition, for example sodium hydroxide, ammonia or a primary, secondary or tertiary (poly)amine, such as monoethanolamine, diethanamine, triethanolamine, isopropanolamine or 1,3-propanediamine, or alternatively by adding an inorganic or organic acid, advantageously a carboxylic acid, such as, for example, citric acid.

[0079] The cosmetically acceptable carrier may include, in addition to water, water-soluble solvents. In certain embodiments that may include water-soluble solvents, the composition is nevertheless free from, or does not include, one or more of the following: ethoxydiglycol, dimethyl isosorbide, triethyl citrate, isopropyl lauryl sarcosinate, propylene glycol, pro-panediol, or combinations thereof. In certain particular embodiments, the composition does not include, or is free from, at least one or more water-soluble solvents selected from the group consisting of monoalcohols and polyols, diols, glycols, glycol ethers, and combinations thereof.

[0080] The expression "water-soluble solvent" is interchangeable with the expression "water-miscible solvent" and designates a compound that is liquid at 25 °C and pressure atmospheric (760 mmHg), and which has a solubility of at least 50% in water under these conditions. In some cases, the water-soluble solvent has a solubility of at least 60%, 70%, 80%, or 90%. Non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include, for example, glycerin, alcohols (e.g., alcohols in the form of Cl-3O, Ch5, CnO, or Cl-4), organic solvents, polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols (e.g., butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, etc.), and mixtures thereof.

[0081] Non-limiting examples of organic solvents may include monoalcohols and polyols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, and phenylethyl alcohol, or glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl, monoethyl, and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, or their ethers such as, for example, monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, for example, monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol. Other suitable examples of organic solvents are ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, propanediol, and glycerin. Organic solvents can be volatile or non-volatile compounds.

[0082] Other non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include alkanediols such as glycerin, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-butene-1,4-diol, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, (caprylyl glycol), 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, and 4-methyl-1,2-pentanediol; alkyl alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as ethanol, methanol, butanol, propanol, and isopropanol;glycol ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl ether, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, ethylene glycol monobutyl ether, ethylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-isopropyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-isopropyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, 1-methyl-l-methoxybutanol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, propylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, propylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, propylene glycol mono-isopropyl ether, ether monomethyl dipropylene glycol, monoethyl dipropylene glycol ether, mono-n-propyl dipropylene glycol ether and mono-isopropyl dipropylene glycol ether;2-pyrrolidone, N-methyl-2-pyrrolidone, l,3-dimethyl-2-imidazolidinone, formamide, acetamide, di-; methyl sulfoxide, sorbit, sorbitan, acetin, diacetinate, triacetin, sulfolane, and a mixture of these.

[0083] Polyhydric alcohols are useful. Examples of polyhydric alcohols include glycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, 2,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 3-methyl-1,3-butanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, tetraethylene glycol, 1,6-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, polyethylene glycol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, and mixtures thereof. Polyol compounds may also be used. Non-limiting examples include aliphatic diols, such as 2-ethyl-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3,3-dimethyl-1,2-butanediol, 2,2-diethyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-methyl-2-propyl-1,3-propanediol, 2,4-dimethyl-2,4-pentanediol, 2,5-dimethyl-2,5-hexanediol, 5-hexene-1,2-diol and 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, and mixtures thereof.

[0084] In some cases, the cosmetic compositions of the disclosure include one or more glycols and / or one or more alcohols, for example, one or more water-soluble solvents selected from the group consisting of butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, propanediol, glycerin and a mixture thereof.

[0085] The total amount of one or more water-soluble solvents may vary but is typically about 1 to about 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.In some cases, the total quantity of the water-soluble solvent(s) is approximately 1 to approximately 35% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 30% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 25% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 40% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 35% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 30% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 25% by weight, approximately 5 to approximately 40% by weight, approximately 5 to approximately 35% by weight, approximately 5 to approximately 30% by weight, approximately 5 to approximately 25% by weight, approximately 10 to approximately 40% by weight, approximately 10 to approximately 35% by weight, approximately 10 to approximately 30% by weight, approximately 10 to approximately 25% by weight, approximately 15 to approximately 40% by weight, approximately 15 to approximately 35% by weight, approximately 15 to approximately 30% by weight, or approximately 15 to approximately 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Non-silicone fatty compounds

[0086] In various embodiments, the composition may include one or more fatty compounds. In some embodiments, the compounds may be non-silicone fatty compounds or silicone compounds. In some embodiments, the composition is free of one or more fatty compounds selected from the group consisting of non-silicone fatty compounds or silicone compounds.

[0087] The cosmetic composition may include one or more non-silicone fatty compounds. The term "non-silicone fatty compound" means a fatty compound that does not contain no silicon (Si) atoms. Non-limiting examples of non-silicon fatty compounds include oils, mineral oils, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty alcohol derivatives, fatty acid derivatives (such as alkoxylated fatty acids or polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids or propylene glycol esters of fatty acids or butylene glycol esters of fatty acids or neopentyl glycol and fatty acids esters or polyglycerol / glycerol esters of fatty acids or glycol diesters or ethylene glycol and fatty acids diesters or fatty acid and fatty alcohol esters, short-chain alcohol and fatty acid esters), fatty alcohol esters, hydroxy-substituted fatty acids, waxes, triglyceride compounds, lanolin, and mixtures thereof.Non-limiting examples of fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty alcohol derivatives and fatty acid derivatives are given in the International Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients, Sixteenth Edition, 2016, which is incorporated by reference in this document in its entirety.

[0088] Fatty alcohols of use in this document include those having from about 10 to about 30 carbon atoms, from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms, and from about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols may be straight-chain or branched-chain alcohols and may be saturated or unsaturated. Non-limiting examples of fatty alcohols include decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linalool, oleyl alcohol, cholesterol, cis4-t-butylcyclohexanol, myricyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. In some cases, fatty alcohols are those chosen from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol and a mixture of these.

[0089] The fatty acids useful in this document include those having from about 10 to about 30 carbon atoms, from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms, and from about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms. These fatty acids may be straight-chain or branched-chain and may be saturated or unsaturated. Also included are diacids, triacids, and other multiple acids that meet the carbon number requirement in this document. Salts of these fatty acids are also included in this document. Non-limiting examples of fatty acids include lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, arachidonic acid, oleic acid, isostearic acid, sebacic acid, and mixtures thereof. In some cases, fatty acids are chosen from the group consisting of palmitic acid, stearic acid and a mixture of these.

[0090] Fatty alcohol derivatives include alkyl ethers of fatty alcohols, alkoxylated fatty alcohols, alkoxylated alkyl ethers of fatty alcohols, fatty alcohol esters, and mixtures thereof. Non-limiting examples of fatty alcohol derivatives include materials such as methyl stearyl ether, 2-ethylhexyl dodecyl ether, stearyl acetate, cetyl propionate, the ceteth series of compounds such as ceteth-1 to ceteth-45, which are ethylene glycol ethers of cetyl alcohol, where the numerical designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol fractions present; the steareth series of compounds such as steareth-1 to 10, which are ethylene glycol ethers of steareth alcohol, where the numerical designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol fractions present; ceteareth-1 to ceteareth-10, which are the ethylene glycol ethers of ceteareth alcohol, i.e. a mixture of fatty alcohols containing mainly cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, in which the numerical designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol fractions present; the C1-C30 alkyl ethers of the ceteth, steareth and ceteareth compounds described above;Polyoxyethylenated ethers of branched alcohols such as octyldodecyl alcohol, dodecylpentadecyl alcohol, hexyldecyl alcohol and isostearyl alcohol; polyoxyethylenated ethers of behenyl alcohol; PPG ethers such as PPG-9 steareth ether, PPG-11 stearyl ether, PPG-8 cetyl ether and PPG-10 cetyl ether; and mixtures thereof.

[0091] Non-limiting examples of polyglycerol esters of fatty acids include those of the following formula: □R 2 R j --- ('OCH? ” CH H? OR?

[0092] wherein the average value of n is approximately 3 and R1, R2, and R3 can each independently be a fatty acid fraction or a hydrogen atom, provided that at least one of R1, R2, and R3 is a fatty acid fraction. For example, R1, R2, and R3 can be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and have a length of C1-C40, C1-C30, C1-C25, C1-C20, C1-C16, or C1-C10. For example, nonionic polyglyceryl esters of fatty acids include polyglyceryl-5 laurate.

[0093] Fatty acid derivatives are defined in this document to include fatty acid esters of fatty alcohols as defined above, fatty acid esters of fatty alcohol derivatives as defined above when these fatty alcohol derivatives have an esterifiable hydroxyl group, fatty acid esters of alcohols other than fatty alcohols and fatty alcohol derivatives described above, hydroxy-substituted fatty acids, and a mixture thereof. Non-limiting examples of fatty acid derivatives include ricinoleic acid, glyceryl monostearate, 12-hydroxystearic acid, ethyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl palmitate, polyoxyethylenated cetyl ether stearate, polyoxyethylenated stearyl ether stearate, and poly- Lyoxyethylenated ethylene glycol monostearate, polyoxyethylenated monostearate, polyoxyethylenated distearate, propylene glycol monostearate, propylene glycol distearate, trimethylolpropane distearate, sorbitan stearate, polyglyceryl stearate, dimethyl sebacate, PEG-15 cocoate, PPG-15 stearate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl tristearate, PEG-8 laurate, PPG-2 isostearate, PPG-9 laurate, and mixtures thereof. Preferred products in this document are glycerol monostearate, 12-hydroxystearic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0094] In some cases, the fatty compound(s) may be one or more high-melting-point fatty compounds. A high-melting-point fatty compound is a fatty compound having a melting point of 25 °C. Fatty compounds with even higher melting points may also be used, for example, fatty compounds having a melting point of 40 °C or higher, 45 °C or higher, or 50 °C or higher. The high-melting-point fatty compound may be selected from the group consisting of fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty alcohol derivatives, fatty acid derivatives, and mixtures thereof. Non-limiting examples of high-melting-point compounds can be found in the International Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients, Sixteenth Edition, 2016, which is incorporated by reference in its entirety into this document. Fatty alcohols useful in this document are those having from about 14 to about 30 carbon atoms, preferably from about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms.These fatty alcohols are saturated and can be linear- or branched-chain alcohols. Non-limiting examples of high-melting-point fatty compounds include fatty alcohols such as cetyl alcohol (having a melting point of approximately 56 °C), stearyl alcohol (having a melting point of approximately 58–59 °C), behenyl alcohol (having a melting point of approximately 71 °C), and mixtures thereof. These compounds are known to have the above melting points. However, they often have lower melting points when supplied, as these supplied products are frequently mixtures of fatty alcohols with alkyl chain length distributions in which the main alkyl chain consists of cetyl, stearyl, or behenyl groups. In this application, the preferred fatty alcohols are cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. .

[0095] In some cases, non-silicone fatty compounds include one or more waxes. Waxes generally have a melting point between 35 and 120 °C at atmospheric pressure. Non-limiting examples of waxes in this category include, for example, synthetic wax, ceresin, paraffin, ozokerite, illipe butter, beeswax, carnauba wax, microcrystalline wax, lanolin, lanolin derivatives, candelilla, cocoa butter, shellac wax, spermaceti, bran wax, capok wax, sugar cane wax, montan wax, whale wax, bay berry wax, sunflower seed wax (Helianthus annuus), acacia flower wax, or a mixture of these.

[0096] Among the waxes that can be used as non-silicone fatty compounds, we can mention animal waxes, such as beeswax; vegetable waxes, such as sunflower (Helianthus annuus) seed wax, camauba, candelilla, ouricury or Japanese wax or cork or sugar cane fiber waxes; mineral waxes, for example paraffin or lignite wax or microcrystalline waxes or ozokerites; synthetic waxes, including polyethylene waxes, and waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis.

[0097] In some cases, non-silicone fatty compounds include one or more non-silicone oils. The term "oil" in this document describes any material substantially insoluble in water. Suitable non-silicone oils include, but are not limited to, natural oils, such as coconut oil; hydrocarbons, such as mineral oil and hydrogenated polyisobutene; fatty alcohols, such as octyldodecanol; esters, such as a C12-C15 alkyl benzoate; diesters, such as propylene dipelargonate; and triesters, such as glyceryl trioctanoate. Suitable low-viscosity oils have a viscosity of 5 to 100 mPas at 25 °C and are generally esters of the structure RCO-OR', where RCO represents the carboxylic acid radical and OR' is an alcohol residue.Examples of these low-viscosity oils include isotridecyl isononanoate, PEG-4 diheptanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, tridecyl neopentanoate, cetyl octanoate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl ricinoleate, cetyl stearate, cetyl myristate, coco caprate / dicaprylate, decyl isostearate, isodecyl oleate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isohexyl neopentanoate, octyl palmitate, dioctyl malate, tridecyl octanoate, myristyle myristate, octododecanol, or combinations of octyldodecanol, acetylated lanolin alcohol, cetyl acetate, isododecanol, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, or combinations of these. High viscosity oils generally have a viscosity of 200 to 1,000,000 or 100,000 to 250,000 mPas at 25 °C.These oils include castor oil, lanolin and lanolin derivatives, triisocetyl citrate, sorbitan sesquioleate, Ci0-Ci8 triglycerides, caprylic / capric triglycerides / triglycerides, coconut oil, corn oil, cottonseed oil, triacetylglyceryl hydroxystearate, triacetylglyceryl ricinoleate, glyceryl trioctanoate, hydrogenated castor oil, linseed oil, mink oil, olive oil, palm oil, olive butter, rapeseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, tallow, tricaprine, trihydrostearine, triisostearine, trilaurin, trilinolein, trimyristine, triolein, tripalmitin, tristearine, walnut oil, wheat germ oil, cholesterol, or combinations thereof.

[0098] Mineral oils, such as liquid paraffin or liquid petroleum, or animal oils, such as perhydrosqualene or arara oil, can be used, or Other vegetable oils, such as sweet almond, calophyllum, palm, castor, avocado, jojoba, olive, or cereal germ oil, can also be used. Esters of these oils, such as jojoba esters, can also be used. Other useful esters include lanolic acid, oleic acid, lauric acid, stearic acid, and myristic acid; esters of alcohols, such as oleyl alcohol, linoleyl or linolenic alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, and octyldodecanol; and / or acetylglycerides, octanoates, decanoates, or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols. It is also possible to use solid hydrogenated oils at 25°C, such as hydrogenated castor, palm or coconut oils, or hydrogenated tallow; mono-, di-, tri- or sucroglycerides; lanolins; or solid fatty esters at 25°C.

[0099] The total amount of non-silicone fatty compounds in cosmetic compositions can vary, and the total amount of fatty compounds can be from approximately 5 to approximately 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In some cases, the total amount of non-silicone fatty compounds can be from approximately 5 to approximately 80% by weight, or from approximately 5 to approximately 75% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0100] For example, the total amount of non-silicone fatty compounds may be about 30 to about 85% by weight, about 40 to about 85% by weight, about 50 to about 85% by weight, about 60 to about 85% by weight, about 30 to about 80% by weight, about 40 to about 80% by weight, about 50 to about 80% by weight, or about 60 to about 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0101] Cosmetic compositions that include water often contain smaller amounts of total non-silicone fatty compounds. For example, the total amount of non-silicone fatty compounds may be from about 1 to about 60% by weight, from about 1 to about 50% by weight, from about 1 to about 40% by weight, from about 1 to about 30% by weight, from about 5 to about 60% by weight, from about 5 to about 50% by weight, from about 5 to about 40% by weight, or from about 5 to about 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Thickening agents

[0102] The thickening agent(s) may be carbomer, xanthan gum, guar gum, biosaccharide gum, cellulose, acacia seneca gum, sclerotium gum, agarose, pectin, gellan gum, or hyaluronic acid. In addition, the thickening agent(s) may include polymeric thickeners selected from the group consisting of ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate / VP copolymer, sodium polyacrylate, acrylate copolymers, polyacrylamide, and C10-30 acrylate / alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer. In some cases, the thickening agent includes ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate and / or sodium polyacrylate.

[0103] Many thickening agents are water-soluble and increase the viscosity of water or form an aqueous gel when the cosmetic composition of the invention is dispersed / dissolved in water. The aqueous solution can be heated and cooled, or neutralized, to form the gel, if necessary. The thickener can be dispersed / dissolved in an aqueous solvent that is water-soluble, for example, ethyl alcohol when dispersed / dissolved in water. Non-limiting examples of various types of thickeners include:

[0104] a. Carboxylic acid polymers

[0105] These polymers are crosslinked compounds containing one or more monomers derived from acrylic acid, substituted acrylic acids, and salts and esters of these acrylic acids and substituted acrylic acids, wherein the crosslinking agent contains two or more carbon-carbon double bonds and is derived from a polyhydric alcohol.

[0106] Examples of commercially available carboxylic acid polymers useful in this document include carbomers, which are homopolymers of acrylic acid crosslinked with allylic ethers of sucrose or pentaerythritol. Carbomers are available in the BF Goodrich CARBOPOL 900 range (e.g., Carbopol® 954). In addition, other suitable polymeric carboxylic acid agents include Ultrez® 10 (BF Goodrich) and copolymers of alkyl acrylates in the CiO₃O group with one or more monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, or one of their short-chain esters (i.e., a Ci₄ alcohol), wherein the crosslinking agent is an allylic ether of sucrose or pentaerythritol. These copolymers are known as C10-C30 alkyl acrylate / acrylate crosslinked polymers and are commercially available under the names Carbopol® 1342, Carbopol® 1382, Pemulen TR-1 and Pemulen TR-2, from BFGoodrich. In other words, examples of useful carboxylic acid polymer thickeners in this document are those selected from carbomers, alkyl crosslinked acrylates / acrylates in C10-C30, and mixtures thereof.

[0107] b. Crosslinked polyacrylate polymers

[0108] The compositions of this disclosure may optionally contain crosslinked polyacrylate polymers useful as thickeners or gelling agents, including both cationic and nonionic polymers. Examples of useful crosslinked nonionic polyacrylate polymers and crosslinked cationic polyacrylate polymers are those described in US patents Nos. 5,100,660, 4,849,484, 4,835,206, 4,628,078, US patent No. 4,599,379, and EP 228,868, all of which are incorporated in the this document is referenced in its entirety.

[0109] c. Polyacrylamide polymers

[0110] The compositions of this disclosure may optionally contain polyacrylamide polymers, including nonionic polyacrylamide polymers, including substituted branched or unbranched polymers. Among these polyacrylamide polymers is the nonionic polymer bearing the designation CTFA polyacrylamide and isoparaffin and laureth-7, available under the Sepigel 305 brand from Seppic Corporation.

[0111] Other polyacrylamide polymers useful in this document include multi-sequence copolymers of acrylamides and acrylamides substituted with acrylic acids and substituted acrylic acids. Commercially available examples of such multi-sequence copolymers include Hypan SR150H, SS500V, SS500W, SSSA100H, from Lipo Chemicals, Inc.

[0112] The compositions may also contain thickening and texturizing gels of the type exemplified by the Lubrajel® product range from United Guardian. These gels have moisturizing, viscosifying, and stabilizing properties.

[0113] d. Polysaccharides

[0114] A wide variety of polysaccharides may be useful in this document. "Polysaccharides" are gelling agents that contain a skeleton of repeated sugar (i.e., carbohydrate) units. Non-limiting examples of polysaccharide gelling agents include those selected from the group consisting of cellulose, carboxymethylhydroxyethylcellulose, cellulose acetate propionate carboxylate, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, methylhydroxyethylcellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, sodium cellulose sulfate, and mixtures thereof. Alkyl-substituted celluloses are also useful in this document. Among alkylhydroxyalkylcellulose ethers, preference is given to the product designated by the CTFA as cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose, which is cetyl alcohol ether of hydroxyethylcellulose.This material is sold under the brand name Natrosol® CS Plus by Aqualon Corporation.

[0115] Other useful polysaccharides include scleroglucans comprising a linear chain of (1 to 3) glucose units linked with a (1-6) glucose unit linked every three units, one commercially available example being Clearogel™ CS11 from Michel Mercier Products Inc.

[0116] e. Erasers

[0117] Other thickening and gelling agents useful in this document include materials that are primarily derived from natural sources. Non-limiting examples of such gelling gums include acacia, agar, algin, alginic acid, Ammonium alginate, amylopectin, calcium alginate, calcium carrageenan, camitin, carrageenan, dextrin, gelatin, gellan gum, guar gum, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hectorite, hyaluronic acid, hydrated silica, hydroxypropyl chitosan, hydroxypropyl guar, karaya gum, kelp, locust bean gum, natto gum, potassium alginate, potassium carrageenan, propylene glycol alginate, sclerotic gum, sodium carboxymethyl dextran, sodium carrageenan, tragacanth gum, xanthan gum, biosaccharide gum, and mixtures thereof.

[0118] Other examples of water-soluble thickeners include natural water-soluble polymers, synthetic water-soluble polymers, clay minerals, and silicic anhydride. Non-limiting examples of natural water-soluble polymers include gum arabic, tragacanth gum, karaya gum, guar gum, gellan gum, tara gum, locust bean gum, tamarind gum, sodium alginate, alginic acid propylene glycol ester, carrageenan, farcelluran, agar, high methoxy pectin, low methoxy pectin, xanthine, chitosan, starch (e.g., starch derived from maize, potato, wheat, rice, sweet potato and tapioca, α-starch, soluble starch), fermentation polysaccharide (e.g., xanthan gum, pullulan, carcirane, dextran), acid heteropolysaccharide derived from plant calluses belonging to Polyantes sp.(e.g., tuberous polysaccharide), proteins (e.g., sodium casein, gelatin, albumin), chondroitin sulfate and hyaluronic acid.

[0119] Non-limiting examples of water-soluble synthetic polymers include polyvinyl alcohol, sodium polyacrylate, sodium polymethacrylate, polyacrylic acid glyceryl ester, carboxyvinyl polymer, polyacrylamide, polyvinylpyrrolidone, polyvinyl methyl ether, polyvinyl sulfone, maleic acid copolymer, polyethylene oxide, polydiallylamine, polyethylene imine, water-soluble cellulose derivatives (e.g., carboxymethylcellulose, methylcellulose, methylhydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, sodium salt of cellulose sulfate), and starch derivatives (e.g., starch oxide, starch dialdehyde, dextrin, British gum, acetyl starch, starch phosphate, carboxymethyl starch, hydroxyethyl starch, hydroxypropyl starch).

[0120] The total amount of thickening agent(s), when present, may vary but is typically from about 0.01 to about 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic compositions. Similarly, the total amount of thickening agent(s) may be from about 0.01 to about 4% by weight, from about 0.01 to about 3% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 4% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 3% by weight, from about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, from about 0.5 to about 4% by weight, from about 0.5 to about 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0121] Active ingredients for the skin

[0122] The cosmetic compositions described in this document may include one or more skin-active ingredients. Non-limiting examples of skin-active agents include adenosine, 2-[4-(2-hydroxyethyl)piperazine-l-yl]ethanesulfonic acid (HEPES), hyaluronic acid, lanolin, citric acid, malic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, salicylic acid, vitamin C, a vitamin, a retinoid, retinal, retinoic acid, a carotenoid, an amino acid, a protein, an enzyme, and a coenzyme. In some cases, the skin-active ingredient is adenosine.

[0123] In one embodiment, the cosmetic compositions include a skin active ingredient such as a humectant and moisturizing ingredients, an anti-aging agent, a depigmenting agent, an anti-wrinkle agent, or an agent that treats oily skin.

[0124] Humectants and moisturizing ingredients may include, in particular, glycerol and its derivatives, urea and its derivatives, notably Hydrovance marketed by National Starch, lactic acid, hyaluronic acid, AHA, BHA, sodium pidolate, xylitol, serine, sodium lactate, ectoine and its derivatives, chitosan and its derivatives, collagen, plankton, an extract of Imperata cylindra sold under the name Moist 24 by Sederma, acrylic acid homopolymers such as Lipidure-HM from NOF Corporation, beta-glucan and in particular sodium carboxymethyl beta-glucan from Mibelle-AG-Biochemistry, a blend of passionflower, apricot, corn and rice bran oils sold by Nestlé under the name NutraLipids, a C-glycoside derivative,in particular C-13-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane in the form of a 30% by weight solution of active ingredient in a water / propylene glycol mixture (60 / 40% by weight) such as the product manufactured by Chimex under the trade name "Mexoryl SBB", a rosehip oil marketed by Nestlé, a zinc-enriched extract of the microalga Prophyridium cruentum marketed under the name Vincience Algualane, marine collagen and chondroitin sulfate spheres (Atelocollagen) sold by Engelhard Lyon under the name Marine Filling Spheres, hyaluronic acid spheres such as those marketed by Engelhard Lyon, and arginine.

[0125] Depigmenting agents include vitamin C and its derivatives, including vitamin CG, CP and 3-O ethyl vitamin C, alpha and beta arbutin, ferulic acid, lucinol and its derivatives, kojic acid, resorcinol and its derivatives, tranexamic acid and its derivatives, gentisic acid, homogentisic acid, methyl gentisate or homogentisate, dioic acid, D-pantheline calcium sulfonate, lipoic acid, ellagic acid, vitamin B3, linoleic acid and its derivatives, ceramides and their homologues, from plants such as chamomile, bearberry, the aloe family (vera, ferox, bardensis), mulberry, skullcap, kiwi (Actinidia chinensis) marketed by Gattefosse, an extract of Paeonia suffruticosa root, such as that marketed by Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Liquid Botanpi Be, an extract of brown sugar (Saccharum officinarum) such as the molasses extract marketed by Taiyo Kagaku under the name Liquid Molasses, without this list being exhaustive.Among the specific depigmenting agents are vitamin C and its derivatives, including vitamin CG, CP and 3-O ethyl vitamin C, alpha and beta arbutin, ferulic acid, kojic acid, resorcinol and its derivatives, calcium panthetin sulfonate, lipoic acid, ellagic acid, vitamin B3, kiwi water (Actinidia chinensis) marketed by Gattefosse, and Paeonia suffruticosa root extract, such as that sold by Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Botanpi Liquid B.

[0126] The term "anti-wrinkle active ingredient" refers to a natural or synthetic compound that produces a biological effect, such as increasing the synthesis and / or activity of certain enzymes, when it comes into contact with an area of ​​wrinkled skin, thereby reducing the appearance of wrinkles and / or fine lines. Exemplary anti-wrinkle active ingredients may be selected from: desquamating agents, anti-glycation agents, NO-synthase inhibitors, agents that stimulate the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and / or prevent their degradation, agents that stimulate the proliferation of fibroblasts and / or keratinocytes, or stimulate keratinocyte differentiation; muscle relaxants and / or dermo-relaxing agents, free radical scavengers, and mixtures thereof.

[0127] Examples of such compounds are: adenosine and its derivatives and retinol and its derivatives such as retinyl palmitate, ascorbic acid and its derivatives such as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl glucoside; tocopherol and its derivatives such as tocopherol acetate, nicotinic acid and its precursors such as nicotinamide; ubiquinone; glutathione and its precursors such as L-2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid, C-glycoside compounds and their derivatives as described in particular in document EP-1 345 919, in particular C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane as described in particular in document EP-1 345 919, plant extracts including sea fennel and olive leaf extracts, as well as plants and their hydrolysates such as rice protein hydrolysates or soy protein;extracts of algae and in particular of kelp, bacterial extracts, sapogenins such as diosgenin and extracts of Dioscorea plants, in particular wild yam, including: α-hydroxy acids, γ-hydroxy acids, such as salicylic acid and oligopeptides and pseudodipeptides; n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid and their acylated derivatives, in particular {2-[acetyl-(3-trifluoromethyl-phenyl)-amino]-3-methyl-] acetic acid and lipopeptides marketed by the company under the trade names SEDERMA Matrixyl 500 and Matrixyl 3000; lycopene, manganese salts and magnesium salts, including gluconates, and mixtures thereof.

[0128] Adenosine derivatives include, in particular, non-phosphate derivatives of adenosine, such as, in particular, 2'-deoxyadenosine, 2',3'-adenosine isoprop-polylidene; toyocamycin, 1-methyladenosine, N-6-methyladenosine; adenosine N-oxide, 6-methylmercaptopurine riboside, and 6-chloropurine riboside.

[0129] Other derivatives include adenosine receptor agonists such as adenosine phenylisopropyl (“PIA”), 1-methylisoguanosine, N6-cyclohexyladenosine (CHA), N6-cyclopentyladenosine (CPA), 2-chloro-N6-cyclopentyladenosine, 2-chloroadenosine, N6-phenyladenosine, 2-phenylaminoadenosine, MECA, N 6-phenethyladenosine, 2-p-(2-carboxyethyl)phenethyl-amino-5'-N-ethylcarboxamido adenosine (CGS-21680), N-ethylcarboxamido-adenosine (NECA), 5'(N-cyclopropyl)-carboxamidoadenosine, DPMA (PD 129.944) and metrifudil.

[0130] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises a skin active ingredient intended for oily skin. These active ingredients may be sebum-regulating or anti-seborrheic agents capable of regulating the activity of the sebaceous glands. They include: retinoic acid, benzoyl peroxide, sulfur, vitamin B6 (pyridoxine or) chloride, selenium, salicornia - mixtures of cinnamon, tea and octanoylglycine extracts such as Seppic's Sepicontrol A5 TEA - the cinnamon, sarcosine and octanoylglycine mixture marketed notably by Seppic under the name Sepicontrol A5 - zinc salts such as zinc gluconate, zinc pyrrolidonecarboxylate (or zinc pidolate), zinc lactate, zinc aspartate, zinc carboxylate, zinc salicylate, zinc cysteate;-derivatives, particularly of copper and copper pidolate, such as Cuivridone Solabia; plant extracts of Arnica montana, Cinchona succirubra, Eugenia caryophyllata, Humulus lupulus, Hypericum perforatum, Mentha pipenta, Rosmarinus officinalis, Salvia officinalis, and Thymus vulgaris, all marketed, for example, by Maruzen; meadowsweet (Spiraea ulmaria) extracts, such as those sold under the name Sebonormine by Silab; extracts of the seaweed Laminaria saccharina, such as those sold under the name Phlorogine by Biotechmarine; extracts of mixed roots of burnet (Sanguisorba officinalis / Poterium officinale), ginger rhizomes (Zingiber officinalis), and cinnamon bark (Cinnamomum cassia), such as those sold under the name Sebustop by Solabia - flaxseed extracts such as those sold under the name Linumine by Lucas Meyer - Phellodendron extracts such as those sold under the name Phellodendron extract BG by Maruzen or Oubaku liquid B;by Ichimaru Pharcos - mixtures of argan oil - extract of Serenoa serrulata (saw palmetto) and sesame seeds such as those sold under the name Regu SEB by Pentapharm - mixtures of extracts of willowherb, Terminalia chebula, nasturtium and bioavailable zinc (microalgae), such as that sold under the name Seborilys Green Tech; - extracts of Pygeum afrianum such as those sold under the name Pygeum afrianum sterolic lipid extract by Euromed; extracts of Serenoa serrulata such as those sold under the name Viapure Sabal by Actives International, and those sold by Euromed; extracts of mixtures of plantain, Berberis aquifolium and sodium salicylate such as that sold under the name Seboclear Rahn; clove extract such as that sold under the name Clove extract powder by Maruzen; argan oil such as that sold under the name Lipofructyl by Laboratoires Serobio-logiques; lactic protein filtrates,such as that sold under the name Normaseb by Sederma; extracts of kelp, such as that sold under the name Laminarghane by Biotechmarine; oligosaccharides from the seaweed Laminaria digitata, such as that sold under the name Phycosaccharide AC by Codif; extracts of sugar cane, such as that sold under the name Policosanol by Sabinsa; sulfonated shale oil, such as that sold under the name Ichthyol Pale by Ichthyol; extracts of meadowsweet (Spiraea ulmaria), such as that sold under the name Cytobiol Ulmaire by Libiol; sebacic acid, notably sold as a sodium polyacrylate gel under the name Sebosoft by Sederma; glucomannans extracted from konjac tuber and modified with alkylsulfonate chains, such as that sold under the name Biopol Beta by Arch Chemical; extracts of Sophora angustifolia,such as those sold under the name Sophora powder or Sophora extract by Bioland; extracts of cinchona succirubra bark such as those sold under the name Red Bark HS by Alban Muller; extracts of Quillaja saponaria such as those sold under the name Panama wood HS by Alban Muller; glycine grafted onto an undecylenic chain, such as that sold under the name Lipacide UG OR by SEPPIC; the mixture of oleanolic acid and nordihydroguaiaretic acid, such as that sold in gel form under the name AC. Net by Sederma; phthalimidoperoxyhexanoic acid tricitrate (C12-C13) sold under the name COSMACOL® ECI by Sasol; trialkyl citrate (C14-C15) sold under the name COSMACOL® ECL by Sasol; - Hydroxydecanoic acid, including mixtures of hydroxydecanoic acid, sebacic acid and 1,10-decandiol such as that sold under the name Acnacidol BG by Vincience and their mixtures.

[0131] Cosmetic compositions may include 10 ppm to 10% by weight (100,000 ppm), 10 ppm to 5% by weight (50,000 ppm), 10 ppm to 2.5% by weight (25,000 ppm), 10 ppm to 1% by weight (10,000 ppm), 10 ppm to 0.5% by weight (5,000 ppm), 10 ppm to 0.1% by weight (1,000 ppm) or 10 ppm to 500 ppm of one or several active ingredients for the skin. In some cases, the active ingredient(s) for the skin are present in an amount of 10, 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, 70, 80, 90, 100, 150 or 200 to 500, 600, 700, 800, 900 ppm, 0.1% by weight (1,000 ppm), 0.5% by weight (5,000 ppm), 1% by weight (10,000 ppm), 5% by weight (50,000 ppm) or 10% by weight (100,000 ppm). Optional additives

[0132] The compositions may also include at least one additive used in the cosmetic field that does not affect the properties of the compositions according to the invention, such as thickeners, perfumes, pearlescent agents, preservatives, sunscreens, anionic or nonionic, cationic or amphoteric polymers, proteins, protein hydrolysates, vitamins, panthenol, silicones, gelling agents, odor absorbers, and colorants. The additives used according to the disclosure may be selected from the active ingredients, including but not limited to: antimicrobial components, including but not limited to capryloyl glycine and sodium salicylate; essential oils selected from the group consisting of sunflower oil, sesame oil, peppermint oil, macadamia nut oil, tea tree oil, evening primrose oil, sage oil, rosemary oil, coriander oil, thyme oil,chili berry oil, rose oil, anise oil, balsam oil, bergamot oil, rosewood oil, cedar oil, chamomile oil, sage oil, clary sage oil, clove oil, cypress oil, eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, sea fennel oil, frankincense oil, geranium oil, ginger oil, grapefruit oil, jasmine oil, juniper oil, lavender oil, lemon oil, lemongrass oil, lime oil, mandarin oil, marjoram oil, myrrh oil, neroli oil, orange oil, patchouli oil, pepper oil, black pepper oil, petitgrain oil, pine oil, rose otto oil, rosemary oil, sandalwood oil, spearmint oil, spikenard oil, vetiver oil wintergreen oil and ylang-ylang oil; fruit extracts, for example Pyrus Malus (apple) fruit extract, and Aloe Barbadensis leaf juice powder; citric acid,Sodium chloride; acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine and their combinations. Although the optional active additives are given as examples, it would be appreciated if other optional components compatible with cosmetic applications known in the art could be used.

[0133] Furthermore, in accordance with the disclosure, in certain embodiments, one or more other cosmetically acceptable additives may be present in the cosmetic composition. In certain embodiments, the cosmetically acceptable additives used according to the disclosure may be selected from colorants, preservatives, perfumes, dyes, neutralizing agents, or pH correctors (e.g., triethylamine (TEA), sodium hydroxide, citric acid, and hydrochloric acid). Although the optional additives are given as examples, it would be appreciated if other optional components compatible with known cosmetic applications could be used.

[0134] In accordance with the various embodiments, the quantity of one or more active ingredients and additives, alone or in combination, present in the composition may be present in the composition as disclosed in a range of less than about 0.001%, or about 0.001% to about 20%, by weight, or about 0.005% to about 0.01%, or about 0.01% to about 0.1%, or about 0.15% to about 5%, or about 0.40% to about 4%, or about 0.5% to about 2% by weight, or about 1% to about 2%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range or sub-range thereof by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0135] Thus, any one or a combination of active ingredients and additives may be present, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, each or the combination being present in a quantity of approximately 0.001, 0.002, 0.003, 0.004, 0.005, 0.006, 0.007, 0.008, 0.009, 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.10, 0.20, 0.30, 0.40, 0.50, 0.60, 0.70, 0.80, 0.90, 1.0, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19 up to about 20 percent by weight, including intermediate increments and ranges.

[0136] Optional additional antioxidants

[0137] In accordance with the various embodiments, the compositions may contain one or more antioxidants. The additional antioxidants may be any antioxidant suitable for use in cosmetic formulations. Suitable antioxidants include, but are not limited to, amino acids and their derivatives, imidazoles, peptides such as carnosine and its derivatives, carotenes, carotenes (such as α-carotene, γ-carotene and lycopene), α-hydroxy acids (such as citric acid, lactic acid or malic acid), tocopherols and derivatives (such as vitamin E), vitamin A, coenzyme Q10, bioflavonoids, glutathione, plant extracts (such as rosemary extract, olive leaf extracts) and green tea extracts, lignans and aurones.In some embodiments, the antioxidants are chosen from the group consisting of sodium tetracarboxymethylchalcone, glycosyl hesperidin, hesperetin, hes-peridin, silymarin, taxifolin, apigenin, baicalein, baicalin, luteolin, quercetin, hydroxycinnamate, ferulic acid, oryzanol, p-coumaric acid, mangiferin and their combinations.

[0138] The quantity of antioxidants, possibly present in the compositions, may range from approximately 0.01% to approximately 20%, or from approximately 0.1% to approximately 20%, or from approximately 0.01% to approximately 2%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0139] In certain examples of compositions comprising additional ingredients, the composition may include at least one additive selected from the group consisting of humectants, surfactants, water-dispersible silicones, pH adjusters, chelating agents, skin-care actives, preservatives, fillers, powders, perfumes, dyes, pigments, and combinations thereof.

[0140] In certain examples of compositions comprising additional ingredients, the composition may include at least one additive used in the cosmetic field that does not affect the properties of the compositions according to the invention, such as humectants or surfactants (e.g., methyl gluceth-20), silicones or water-dispersible silicones (e.g., Bis-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethyl silane), perfumes, preservatives / antimicrobials (e.g., chlorphenesin, salicylic acid, phenoxyethanol, potassium sorbate, and caprylyl glycol); active ingredients (e.g., hydroxyacetophenone, vitamins, panthenol, tocopherol); oil-soluble active ingredients (e.g., vitamin A, beta-carotene, tocopherol / vitamin E) and emollients; colorings / pigments; essential oils; antioxidants; hydroxy acids; citric acid, sodium citrate, sodium chloride;Neutralizing, chelating, or pH-correcting agents (e.g., triethylamine (TEA), trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, EDTA, and sodium hydroxide), and combinations thereof. In certain specific examples, the composition may include, in conjunction with at least one fatty compound, oil-soluble actives selected from the group consisting of vitamin E, vitamin A, beta-carotene, retinol, resveratrol, their derivatives, and combinations thereof. And in certain specific examples, the composition may include water-soluble actives selected from the group consisting of vitamin C, niacinamide, their derivatives, and combinations thereof.

[0141] In certain examples of composition comprising additional ingredients, the composition includes at least one ingredient selected from the group consisting of ethylhexylglycerin, pentylene glycol, carbomer, methyl gluceth-20, Bis-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethyl silane, sodium benzoate, sodium hydroxide, phenoxyethanol, taurine, adenosine, hydroxyethylpiperazine ethanesulfonic acid, niacinamide and their combinations.

[0142] In some examples of composition including additional ingredients, the composition includes each of the following: ethylhexylglycerin, pentylene glycol, carbomer, methyl gluceth-20, Bis-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethylsilane, sodium benzoate, sodium hydroxide, phenoxyethanol, taurine, adenosine, hydroxyethylpiperazine ethanesulfonic acid, and niacinamide.

[0143] In some examples of compositions including additional ingredients, the composition includes ethylhexylglycerin (approximately 0.10% by weight), pentylene glycol (approximately 1.00% by weight), carbomer (approximately 0.40% by weight), methyl gluceth-20 (approximately 2.00% by weight), sodium benzoate (approximately 0.30% by weight), sodium hydroxide (approximately 0.30% by weight), phenoxyethanol (approximately 0.70% by weight), taurine (approximately 3.00% by weight), adenosine (approximately 0.04% by weight), hydroxyethylpiperazine ethanesulfonic acid (approximately 5.00% by weight), niacinamide (approximately 5.00% by weight), and water (approximately 30-45% by weight).

[0144] In some examples of composition including additional ingredients, the composition includes ethylhexylglycerin (about 0.10% by weight), pentylene glycol (about 1.00% by weight), carbomer (about 0.30% by weight), Bis-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethylsilane (about 2.00% by weight), sodium benzoate (about 0.30% by weight), sodium hydroxide (about 0.35% by weight), phenoxyethanol (about 0.70% by weight), taurine (about 1.50% by weight), adenosine (about 0.04% by weight), hydroxyethylpiperazine ethanesulfonic acid (about 5.00% by weight), niacinamide (about 5.00% by weight), and water (about 30-45% by weight).

[0145] Although the optional additives are given by way of examples, it will be appreciated if other optional components compatible with cosmetic applications known in the art can be used and are suitable for a cosmetic composition.

[0146] In accordance with the various embodiments, the quantity of one or more active ingredients and additives, alone or in combination, when present in the composition as disclosed, may be present in a range from approximately 0.0001% to approximately 20%, and in some embodiments, from approximately 0.005% to approximately 0.01%, and in some embodiments, from approximately 0.01% to approximately 0.1%, and in some embodiments, from approximately 0.15% to approximately 5%, and in some embodiments, from approximately 0.40% to approximately 4%, and in some embodiments, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 2.5%, and in some embodiments, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 0.5%, and in some embodiments, from approximately 1% to approximately 2%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof. weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.A person with ordinary skill in the art, however, will appreciate that other areas fall within the scope of the invention.

[0147] Thus, any one or a combination of active ingredients and additives may be present, each of them or the combination being present in amounts of approximately 0.0001, 0.0005, 0.001, 0.002, 0.003, 0.004, 0.005, 0.006, 0.007, 0.008, 0.009, 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.10, 0.20, 0.30, 0.40, 0.50, 0.60, 0.70, 0.80, 0.90, 1.0, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19 up to about 20 percent, by weight, including increments and intermediate ranges.

[0148] Processes

[0149] The cosmetic compositions of the disclosure are particularly useful in skin treatment processes, for example, processes for improving the appearance of skin, including the skin of the face and / or neck and / or around the eyes. In particular, the cosmetic compositions are useful in processes for reducing the appearance of fine lines; reducing the appearance of wrinkles; improving skin tone and / or evenness of skin tone; improving the softness and / or smoothness of the skin; and / or increasing the radiance, brightness, and / or luminosity of the skin. These processes typically involve the topical application of a cosmetically effective amount of the cosmetic composition to the skin, for example, the skin of the face and / or neck and / or around the eyes. The processes may include one or more applications.For example, cosmetic compositions may be applied to the skin (e.g., the face and / or neck) once a week, once every other day, once a day, twice a day, or more than twice a day; and the application(s) may be repeated over a period of time, for example, every other day for one or two weeks, or every day for one week, two weeks, one month, two months, three months, six months, one year, or longer. In some cases, the cosmetic composition is applied regularly to the skin once during an initial period followed by regular application during a subsequent period, with regular application during the initial period being less frequent than regular application during the subsequent period. This allows the skin to gradually adapt to the cosmetic composition.For example, the cosmetic composition can be applied to the skin every two days for an initial period (e.g., for one week) and then applied to the skin every day for a subsequent second period (e.g., for one week, four weeks, eight weeks or more).

[0150] An implementation of this disclosure is provided by means of the following examples. The examples are intended to illustrate the technology but are not limiting in nature. The examples below according to the invention are given by way of illustration and are not intended to be limiting. The names are the chemical name or the INCI name. The quantities are given as % by weight, unless otherwise stated. EXAMPLES

[0151] Example 1: formulations comprising the composition

[0152] In general, any composition of the invention can be applied to a keratinous substrate or tissue. For topical application to the skin, the composition may, in particular, be in the form of water-based aqueous formulations.

[0153] [Table 1] Inventive compositions Ingredient: Acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine approximately 0.5% to approximately 2%. Hydroxyethyl urea approximately 4% to approximately 26.5%, or approximately 4.5% to approximately 18%. Optional ingredients (thickeners, surfactants, humectants, silicones, fatty compounds, active ingredients, pH adjusters, perfumes, chelating agents, antimicrobials, preservatives) approximately 0.0001% to approximately 20% (individually or in combination). Water (possibly with a water-based solvent) approximately 30% to approximately 75%.

[0154] With reference to Table 1 above, each of the compositions is provided in a proportion of cosmetic ingredients, as a percentage relative to a final weight of 100. Other inventive examples may be formulated in a cosmetically acceptable carrier which includes water and water solvents which are the same or comparable to those listed above in the general quantities shown, including other optional additives which may be listed above or mentioned in the description.

[0155] In a representative embodiment, identified herein as INVENTIVE 1, the inventive composition according to disclosure has a pH of about 6 and includes acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine (2.00 wt%), hydroxyethyl urea (in a range of about 4 wt% to less than 27 wt%, more particularly about 4 wt% to about 26.5 wt%, more particularly about 11.7 wt%), and other ingredients including ethylhexylglycerin, pentylene glycol, carbomer, methyl gluceth-20 (2.00 wt%), sodium benzoate, sodium hydroxide, phenoxyethanol, taurine, adenosine, hydroxyethylpiperazine ethanesulfonic acid, niacinamide and water (QS).

[0156] In a representative embodiment, identified herein as INVENTIVE 2, the inventive composition according to disclosure has a pH of approximately 6 and includes acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine (2.00% by weight), hydroxyethyl urea (in a range from approximately 4% to less than 27% by weight, more particularly from approximately 11.7% to approximately 18% by weight, more particularly to approximately 17.55%), and other ingredients including ethylhexylglycerin, pentylene glycol, carbomer, bis-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethyl silane (2.00% by weight), the sodium benzoate, sodium hydroxide, phenoxyethanol, taurine, adenosine, hydroxyethylpiperazine ethanesulfonic acid, niacinamide, and water (QS).

[0157] In another representative embodiment, the inventive composition according to the disclosure has a pH of about 6 and may include acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl va-lylglycine (2.00 wt%), hydroxyethyl urea (at 11.7 wt% or 23.4 wt%), and other ingredients including one or a combination of ethylhexylglycerin, pentylene glycol, carbomer, sodium benzoate, sodium hydroxide, phenoxyethanol, taurine, adenosine, hydroxyethylpiperazine ethanesulfonic acid, niacinamide, and water (QS).

[0158] In another representative embodiment, the inventive composition according to the disclosure has a pH of about 4.7 and may include acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl va-lylglycine (1.00 wt.%), hydroxyethyl urea (at 23.4 wt.%), and other ingredients including one or a combination of ethylhexylglycerin, pentylene glycol, carbomer, sodium benzoate, sodium hydroxide, phenoxyethanol, taurine, adenosine, hydroxyethylpiperazine ethanesulfonic acid, niacinamide, and water (QS). Example 2: Solubility and stability studies

[0159] Solubility and stability were evaluated over time during a 10-day freeze-thaw cycle tests.

[0160] The freeze-thaw cycle test is a type of stability test used to determine whether a compound will remain stable. It involves subjecting the compounds to a series of rapid and extreme temperature changes. The freeze-thaw tests were conducted by exposing the compounds to freezing temperatures (approximately -20 °C ± 2 °C) for 24 hours. The compounds were then maintained at a higher temperature (approximately 20 °C ± 2 °C) for 24 hours over a period of 10 days. The compounds were visually inspected to check for phase separation and crystallization of acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine. The results are shown in Table 2.

[0161] [Table 2] Stability test results TEST COMPOSITIONS RESULT OF INVENTIVE STABILITY 1 2% ACETYL TRIFLUOROMETHYLPHENYL VA LYLGLYCINE 11.7% HYDROXYETHYLUREA, pH ~6 SUCCESSFUL INVENTIVE 2 SUCCESSFUL 2% Acetyl Trifluoromethylphenyl Valylglycine, 17.55% Hydroxyethylurate, pH ~6. Comparative 1 (Inventive 1 without Hydroxyethylurate) failed. Inventive 1 with 4.5% Hydroxyethylurate, pH ~6 succeeded. Inventive 1 with 18% Hydroxyethylurate, pH ~6 succeeded. Comparative 2 (Inventive 1 with 27% Hydroxyethylurate) failed. Comparative 3 (Inventive 1 with 3% Acetyl Trifluoromethylphenyl Valylglycine) failed. Comparative 4 - 2% Acetyl Trifluoromethylphenyl Valylglycine and 23.4% Hydroxyethyl Urea, pH ~4.7 FAILED INVENTIVE 3 - 1% Acetyl Trifluoromethylphenyl Valylglycine and 23.4% Hydroxyethyl Urea, pH ~4.7 SUCCESSFUL

[0162] The data show that a water-based composition in a cosmetically acceptable carrier that includes acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine stabilized by the inclusion of hydroxyethyl urea, in the absence of other solvents, maintains stability as evidenced by the absence of crystal formation visible to the naked eye, and the absence of visually perceptible crystal formation over 10 days of freeze-thaw cycles from -20 °C to 20 °C ("SUCCESSFUL"). Comparative compositions that do not contain hydroxyethyl urea, or in which hydroxyethyl urea is present at 60%, or in which acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine is present at more than 2%, do not exhibit stability, as evidenced by crystal formation visible to the naked eye ("FAILS").The results show that at increased amounts of acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine, the composition is stabilized with an increase in pH up to approximately 6. In some embodiments, the stable compositions further show that there is no perceptible crystal formation after ten days at freeze-thaw temperatures ranging from -15 °C to 25 °C, or an intermediate range or sub-range, or over a period of up to eight (8) weeks at room temperature ranging from approximately 25 °C to approximately 37 °C, or combinations thereof. In some embodiments, the composition may... Demonstrated stability when crystals are observed at a temperature of 4°C or lower; these crystals disappear with or without gentle agitation within 24 hours of reaching an ambient temperature of approximately 25°C to approximately 37°C, or after freeze-thaw cycles from -20°C to 20°C, or from -15°C to 25°C. In some embodiments, the composition may be stable for a period of up to eight (8) weeks.

[0163] Although the disclosure has been described with reference to described embodiments, those skilled in the art will understand that various modifications can be made and equivalents can be substituted for elements thereof without departing from the scope of the disclosure. Furthermore, numerous modifications can be made to adapt a particular situation or subject matter to the teachings of the disclosure without departing from its essential scope. Therefore, it is intended that the disclosure will not be limited to the particular embodiment disclosed as being the best envisaged embodiment for carrying out this disclosure, but that the disclosure will include all embodiments falling within the scope of the appended claims.

[0164] The articles “a” and “an” in this document mean one or more when applied to any particular embodiment of this disclosure described in the specification and claims. The use of “a” and “an” does not limit the meaning to a single particular unless such a limitation is specifically indicated. The article “the” preceding singular or plural nouns or noun phrases indicates a specified particular or specific particulars and may have a singular or plural connotation depending on the context in which it is used. The adjective “any” means one, some, or all indiscriminately, regardless of quantity.

[0165] “At least one” in this document means one or more than one, including two or more than two, and therefore includes individual components as well as mixtures / combinations.

[0166] The transitional terms “comprising,” “essentially consisting of,” and “consisting of,” when used in the appended claims, in their original and amended forms, define the scope of the claim with respect to any additional elements or steps not mentioned in the claim, if any, which are excluded from the scope of the claim or claims. The term “comprising” is intended to be inclusive or broad and does not exclude any additional element, process, step, or material not mentioned. The expression “consisting of” excludes any element, step, or material other than those specified in the claim and, in the latter case, impurities ordinarily associated with the specified material or materials. The expression “essentially consisting of” limits the scope of a claim to the specified elements, steps, or materials and to those that do not materially affect the or the fundamental and innovative features of the claimed disclosure. All materials and processes described in this document that embody this disclosure may, in other embodiments, be defined more specifically by any of the transitional terms "comprising", "consisting essentially of" and "consisting of".

[0167] The terms "free" and "devoid" indicate that no reliably measurable excluded material is present in the composition, typically 0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The expression "essentially free" means that, although it is preferable that no excluded material be present in the composition, it is possible to have very small amounts of the excluded material in the composition of the invention, provided that such amounts do not materially affect the advantageous properties of the composition. In particular, "essentially free" means that the excluded material may be present in the composition in an amount less than about 0.5% by weight, less than about 0.1% by weight, less than about 0.05% by weight, or less than about 0.01% by weight, or none of the specified material, all amounts being based on the total weight of the composition.All elements presented positively in this disclosure may be excluded negatively; that is, process compositions may be "free", "substantially free" or "essentially free" of any of the elements presented positively in this document.

[0168] The term "about" means to within 10% of the number indicated (for example, "about 10%" means 9% to 11% and "about 2%" means 1.8% to 2.2%).

[0169] All percentages and ratios are calculated by weight unless otherwise stated. All percentages are calculated on the basis of the total composition unless otherwise stated. In general, unless expressly stated otherwise in this document, "weight" or "quantity" in this document with respect to the percentage of an ingredient refers to the quantity of raw material comprising the ingredient, the raw material being described in this document as comprising less than and up to 100% of the ingredient's activity. Therefore, the percentage by weight of an active ingredient in a composition is represented by the quantity of raw material containing the active ingredient that is used and may or may not reflect the final percentage of the active ingredient, in which the final percentage of the active ingredient depends on the percentage by weight of the active ingredient in the raw material.

[0170] The terms "percent by weight" and "% by weight" may be used interchangeably and mean percentage by weight, relative to the total weight of a composition, article, or material, except as may be specified with regard to, for example, a phase or system that is a component of a composition of an article or material. All ranges and quantities stated in this document are intended to include subranges and quantities using any disclosed point as a boundary. Thus, a range of "1% to 10%, such as 2% to 8%, such as 3% to 5%" is intended to encompass ranges of "1% to 8%", "1% to 5%", "2% to 10%", and so on. A given range of "approximately 1% to 10%" is understood to have its 1% and 10% boundaries modified by the term "approximately". Furthermore, a range is intended to include the boundaries and all numbers within the range unless expressly stated otherwise. In addition, it is understood that when a quantity of a component is given, it is intended to mean the quantity of active material, unless expressly stated otherwise.

[0171] Notwithstanding that the numerical ranges and parameters presenting the broad scope of the disclosure are approximations, unless otherwise indicated, the numerical values ​​presented in the specific examples are reported as accurately as possible. However, every numerical value inherently contains some errors necessarily resulting from the standard deviation observed in their respective test measurements. The following example serves to illustrate embodiments of this disclosure but is not, however, limiting in nature.

[0172] All publications and patent applications cited in this document are incorporated by reference, and for all purposes, as if each individual publication or patent application were specifically and individually indicated as being incorporated by reference. In the event of any inconsistency between this disclosure and any publication or patent application incorporated by reference in this document, this disclosure shall prevail.

Claims

Claims

1. A water-based cosmetic composition comprising: (a) acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine, present in an amount of from about 0.5% to up to about 2%; (b) hydroxyethyl urea, present in an amount of from about 4.5% to about 25%; (c) a cosmetically acceptable carrier comprising water, present in an amount of from about 30% to about 70%, by weight of the composition; and (d) optionally, one or more additives, the other optional ingredients being present in an amount of from about 0.001% to about 20% by weight of the composition;wherein the composition has a pH in a range of from about 4.5 to about 6.5, and wherein all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, and wherein: either (a) acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine is present at about 2%, by weight of the composition, and (b) hydroxyethyl urea is present at about 11.7% and up to about 18%, by weight of the composition; and wherein the composition has a pH of about 6; or (a) acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine is present at about 1%, by weight of the composition; and (b) hydroxyethyl urea is present at about 23.4%, by weight of the composition; and wherein the composition has a pH of about 4.7.;

2. A water-based cosmetic composition according to claim 1, comprising methyl gluceth-20, bis-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethyl silane, or a combination thereof.

3. The water-based cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the composition demonstrates stability either (i) as evidenced by the absence of crystal formation that is visible to the naked eye, and a visually perceptible absence of crystal formation at room temperature of about 25°C to about 37°C and after freeze-thaw cycles of -20°C to 20°C, or (ii) when crystals are visualized at a temperature of 4°C or lower, such crystals disappear with or without gentle agitation within 24 hours of reaching room temperature of about 25°C to about 37°C and after freeze-thaw cycles of -20°C to 20°C, or (iii) a combination thereof.

4. The water-based cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the optional ingredient(s) are selected from the group consisting of fatty compound(s), thickening agent(s), surfactants, other additives and skin active agent(s), pH adjusters, chelating agents, preservatives, fillers, powders, perfumes, dyes, pigments, and combinations thereof, and wherein the composition optionally excludes or is essentially free of ingredients selected from the group consisting of parabens, phthalates, cyclomethicones, perfume, silicone, mineral oil, synthetic dyes, gelling agents, sulfates, polyquaternium, microplastics, EDTA, silicone oils, mineral UV filtering agents, organic UV filtering agents, and combinations thereof.

5. The water-based cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the optional ingredient(s) are selected from the group consisting of ethylhexylglycerin, pentylene glycol, carbomer, methyl gluceth-20, Bis-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethylsilane, sodium benzoate, sodium hydroxide, phenoxyethanol, taurine, adenosine, hydroxyethylpiperazine ethane sulfonic acid, niacinamide, and combinations thereof.

6. A water-based cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein: (a) acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine is present in an amount of about 2%;(b) hydroxyethyl urea is present in an amount of from about 4.5% to about 18%, and wherein all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, and wherein the composition has a pH in a range of from about 4.5 to about 6.5, wherein the composition demonstrates stability as evidenced by the absence of crystal formation that is visible to the naked eye, and the absence of visually perceptible crystal formation at room temperature of from about 25°C to about 37°C and after freeze-thaw cycles of from -20°C to 20°C, and wherein the composition excludes one or more ingredients selected from the group consisting of ethoxydiglycol, dimethyl isosorbide, triethyl citrate, isopropyl lauryl sarcosinate, propylene glycol, propanediol, and combinations thereof; or;

7. A water-based cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein: (a) acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine, present at about 2%; (b) hydroxyethyl urea is present in an amount of from about 4.5% to about 18%; (c) a cosmetically acceptable carrier comprising water; and (d) optionally, one or more additives comprising methyl gluceth-20 or bis-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethyl silane, and wherein all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, and wherein the composition has a pH in a range of about 4.5 to about 6.5, and wherein the composition demonstrates stability as evidenced by the absence of crystal formation that is visible to the naked eye, and the absence of visually perceptible crystal formation at room temperature of about 25°C to about 37°C and after freeze-thaw cycles of -20°C to 20°C, and wherein the composition excludes one or more ingredients selected from the group consisting of ethoxy diglycol, dimethyl isosorbide, triethyl citrate, isopropyl lauryl sarcosinate, propylene glycol, propanediol, and combinations thereof.