A hair coloring process comprising the application of a composition A comprising two alkoxysilanes, and the application of a composition B comprising a film-forming polymer
The application of alkoxysilanes and film-forming polymers in hair coloring compositions addresses the issue of color fade and damage by creating a resistant and vibrant hair color that withstands shampooing and external stressors.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2022002925
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2022-03-31
- Publication Date
- 2025-11-21
- Estimated Expiration
- 2042-03-31
AI Technical Summary
Existing hair coloring methods, particularly temporary and semi-permanent techniques, result in colors that are not resistant to shampoos and external agents like sebum, perspiration, and brushing, leading to poor color retention and damage to the hair.
A method involving the application of compositions A and B, where composition A includes alkoxysilanes and composition B includes a film-forming polymer, along with coloring agents, to create a resistant and vibrant hair color that persists through shampooing.
The method provides a homogeneous, smooth, and durable hair color that remains vibrant after shampooing while protecting the hair from external aggressors like blow-drying and perspiration.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: A hair coloring process comprising the application of a composition A comprising two alkoxysilanes, and the application of a composition B comprising a film-forming polymer Technical field of the invention
[0001] The present invention relates to a method for coloring keratin fibers such as hair, comprising applying to the keratin fibers at least one composition A comprising at least one alkoxysilane selected from compounds of formula (I) or formula (1') and at least one alkoxysilane of formula (II), and applying to the keratin fibers at least one composition B comprising at least one film-forming polymer. Said composition A and / or composition B comprise at least one coloring agent selected from pigments, direct dyes, and mixtures thereof. Said composition A and / or composition B comprise at least one compound selected from an amino acid, a polymer derived from an amino acid, and mixtures thereof. Context of the invention
[0002] In the field of staining keratin fibers, particularly human fibers, it is already known to stain keratin fibers by different techniques from direct dyes or pigments for non-permanent staining or from dye precursors for permanent staining.
[0003] There are essentially three types of hair coloring processes:
[0004] a) so-called permanent coloring which has the function of bringing about a significant change in the natural color and which uses oxidation dyes which penetrate the hair fiber and form the dye by a process of oxidative condensation;
[0005] b) non-permanent, semi-permanent or direct coloring, which does not implement the oxidative condensation process and resists 4 or 5 shampoos; consists of dyeing the keratin fibers with dyeing compositions containing direct dyes.
[0006] c) Temporary hair coloring that results in a change to the natural hair color that lasts from one shampoo to the next and serves to enhance or correct a previously achieved shade. It can also be considered a "makeup" process.
[0007] For this latter type of coloring, it is known to use pigments. Indeed, the use of pigment on the surface of keratin fibers generally makes it possible to obtain visible coloring on dark hair since the pigment on the surface masks the natural color of the fiber.
[0008] However, the colors obtained by this coloring method have the disadvantage of having low resistance to shampoos as well as to external agents such as sebum, perspiration, brushing and / or friction.
[0009] There therefore remains a need for a process of coloring keratin fibers, in particular hair, which has the advantage of obtaining a homogeneous and smooth colored coating on the hair, while forming a coating that is resistant to shampoos and to the various aggressions that hair can undergo, such as brushing and / or rubbing, without damaging the hair.
[0010] The applicant has surprisingly discovered that all of these objectives can be achieved by the process according to the present invention. Summary of the invention
[0011] The present invention relates to a method for coloring keratin fibers such as hair, comprising the following steps: a) the application to keratin fibers of at least one composition A comprising: - at least one alkoxysilane selected from the compounds of formula (I) or formula (!') as described below, their oligomers and / or mixtures thereof, and - at least one alkoxysilane of formula (II) as described below, its oligomers and / or mixtures thereof, and b) the application to keratin fibers of at least one composition B comprising: - at least one film-forming polymer, composition A and / or composition B comprising at least one coloring agent selected from pigments, direct colorants, and mixtures thereof, and composition A and / or composition B comprising at least one compound selected from an amino acid, a polymer derived from an amino acid and mixtures thereof.
[0012] The present invention also relates to a device for coloring keratin fibers such as hair, comprising several compartments containing: - in a first compartment, a composition A comprising: - at least one alkoxysilane selected from the compounds of formula (I) or formula (I') as described below, their oligomers and / or mixtures thereof, and - at least one alkoxysilane of formula (II) as described below, its oligomers and / or mixtures thereof, - in a second compartment, a composition B according to the invention comprising: - at least one film-forming polymer, composition A and / or composition B comprising at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and their mixtures, and composition A and / or composition B comprising at least one compound chosen from an amino acid, a polymer derived from an amino acid and their mixtures.
[0013] By using this process, colored coatings are applied to the hair, resulting in visible color that remains vibrant through shampooing on all hair types while preserving the physical qualities of the keratin fibers. Such a coating can be resistant to external aggressors such as blow-drying and perspiration.
[0014] For the purposes of the present invention, "residual color after shampooing" means that the color obtained persists after at least one shampoo.
[0015] The expression "at least one" means one or more.
[0016] Unless otherwise indicated, the bounds of a range of values are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between" and "ranging from ... to ...".
[0017] By "keratin fibers", we mean particularly human keratin fibers such as hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, and body hair, preferably hair, eyebrows and eyelashes, even more preferably hair.
[0018] For the purposes of the present invention, "hair" means the hair on the head. This term does not include body hair, eyebrows, or eyelashes.
[0019] For the purposes of this invention, "silicone" means any organosilicon polymer or oligomer with a linear or cyclic, branched or cross-linked structure of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and / or polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes, and consisting essentially of a repetition of principal motifs in which silicon atoms are linked together by oxygen atoms (siloxane bond -Si-O-Si-), with optionally substituted hydrocarbon radicals being directly linked via a carbon atom to said silicon atoms.
[0020] For the purposes of the present invention and unless otherwise indicated, - an "alkyl" radical refers to a linear or branched, saturated radical, containing for example from 1 to 30 carbon atoms; - an "aminoalkyl" radical refers to an alkyl radical as defined above, said alkyl radical comprising an NH2 group; - a "hydroxyalkyl" radical refers to an alkyl radical as defined above, said alkyl radical comprising an OH group; - an "alkylene" radical refers to a divalent saturated hydrocarbon group in Ci-Cio, linear or branched, such as methylene, ethylene, or propylene; - a "cycloalkyl" or "alicycloalkyl" radical designates a saturated mono- or bicyclic hydrocarbon group, preferably monocyclic, comprising 1 to 3 cycles, preferably 2 cycles, and comprising from 3 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular comprising from 3 to 24 carbon atoms, more particularly from 3 to 20 carbon atoms, even more particularly from 3 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably between 5 and 10 carbon atoms, such as cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, cycloheptyl, norbornyl, or isobotyl, in particular cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl, or a cyclohexyl. It being understood that the cycloalkyl radical may be substituted by one or more (Ci-C4)alkyl groups such as methyl, preferably the cycloalkyl radical is then an isobotyl group. - an "aryl" radical is an unsaturated aromatic hydrocarbon cyclic radical, comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably between 6 and 14 carbon atoms, more preferably between 6 and 12 carbon atoms, mono / bi / or tri / cyclic, fused or not, preferably the aryl group comprises 1 ring of 6 carbon atoms such as phenyl, naphthyl, anthryl, phenanthryl and biphenyl, it being understood that the aryl radical may be substituted by one or more (CrC4)alkyl groups such as methyl, preferably tolyl, xylyl, or methylnaphthyl, preferably the aryl group represents a phenyl; - an "aryloxy" radical refers to an aryl-oxy radical with "aryl" as defined previously; - an "alkoxy" radical refers to an alkyl-oxy radical with "alkyl", as defined previously.
[0021] Unless otherwise indicated, when compounds are mentioned in this application, this also includes their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, their tautomers, their salts, alone or in mixtures.
[0022] The invention is not limited to the illustrated examples. The features of the different examples can, in particular, be combined within non-illustrated variants. Detailed description of the invention Method according to the invention Composition A Alkoxysilane of formula (I) or of formula (!'):
[0023] Composition A according to the invention comprises at least one alkoxysilane selected from the following compounds of formula (I) or formula (!'), their oligomers and / or mixtures thereof:
[0024] (D ---- ,,J â I ° —— R? x-- j O------------X
[0025] in which: - Ra represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, more preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as a methyl, said alkyl group possibly being substituted by an aryl group; an alkoxy group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as an ethoxy; or an aryl group having from 6 to 12 carbon atoms; Rb and Rc, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom; an alkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, in particular an ethyl group, it being understood that if Ra does not represent an alkoxy group, then Rb and Rc cannot simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom; Rd and Re, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom; an alkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and especially from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; a cycloalkyl group having from 3 to 20 carbon atoms; an aryl group having from 6 to 12 carbon atoms; an aminoalkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms; - A independently represents an alkylene group having from 1 to 10 linear or branched carbon atoms, which may be interrupted by at least one heteroatom chosen from O, S, NH or a carbonyl group (CO), preferably NH - Q represents a carbonyl group (CO); - r denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 1. Among the alkoxysilanes of formula (I), their oligomers and / or mixtures, we can notably mention 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), 3-aminopropylmethyldiethoxysilane (APMDES), 3-ureidopropyltrimethoxysilane and N-cyclohexylaminomethyl triethoxysilane.
[0026] APTES can for example be purchased from DOW CORNING under the name XIAMETER OFS-6011 SILANE or from MOMENTIVE PERFORMANCE MATERIALS under the name SILSOFT A-1100 or from SHIN ETSU under the name KBE-903.
[0027] The compounds of formula (I) may also refer to DYNASYLAN SIVO 210 or DYNASYLAN 1505 sold by the company EVONIK.
[0028] 3-ureidopropyltrimethoxysilane can for example be purchased from the company Gelest under the name SIU9058.0.
[0029] N-cyclohexylaminomethyl triethoxysilane can for example be purchased from the company WACKER under the name GENIOSIL XL 926.
[0030] Among the alkoxysilanes of formula (I'), their oligomers and / or mixtures, we may mention in particular N,N-Bis[3-(trimethoxysilyl)propyl]ethylenediamine (CAS RN: 74956-86-8), Nl,Nl-Bis[3-(triethoxysilyl)propyl]-l,2-ethanediamine (CAS RN: 457065-96-2), 1,2-ethanediamine, Nl-[3-(triethoxysilyl)propyl]-Nl-[3-(trimethoxysilyl)propyl]- (CAS RN: 1638528-78-5), and their mixtures.
[0031] Preferably, the alkoxysilane(s), their oligomers and / or mixtures thereof are chosen from the compounds of the following formula (I): in which: - Ra represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, in particular from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl, or an alkoxy group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 2 carbon atoms, preferably an ethoxy; - Rb and Rc, identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms like an ethyl; - Rd and Re, identical, represent a hydrogen atom or Rd designates a hydrogen atom and Re designates a C5-C6 cycloalkyl radical such as cyclohexyl; - A independently represents an alkylene group having from 1 to 10 linear or branched carbon atoms, which can be interrupted by at least one heteroatom chosen from O, S, NH or a carbonyl group (CO), preferably NH; - r denotes an integer equal to 0.
[0032] Preferably, the alkoxysilane(s), their oligomers and / or mixtures thereof are chosen from compounds of formula (I) in which Ra represents an ethoxy group, Rb and Rc are identical and represent an ethyl, Rd and Re represent a hydrogen atom, A represents a propylene and r denotes an integer equal to 0.
[0033] According to a preferred embodiment, alkoxysilane of formula (I), its oligomers and / or mixtures thereof, is 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES).
[0034] The alkoxysilane(s) of formula (I) or of formula (I'), their oligomers and / or mixtures thereof may be present in a total quantity of 0.1 to 40% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 30% by weight, preferably 0.75 to 25% by weight, better 1 to 20% by weight, even better 1.5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A.
[0035] According to a preferred embodiment, the alkoxysilane(s) of formula (I), their oligomers and / or mixtures thereof is (are) present in a total quantity ranging from 0.1 to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.75 to 25% by weight, better from 1 to 20% by weight, even better from 1.5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A. Alkoxysilane of formula (II):
[0036] Composition A according to the invention comprises at least one alkoxysilane of the following formula (II), its oligomers and / or mixtures thereof: FU ® SS in which: - Ra represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, more preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as a methyl, said alkyl group possibly being substituted by an aryl group; an alkoxy group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as an ethoxy; or an aryl group having from 6 to 12 carbon atoms; - Rb represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, in particular an ethyl group; - Rc represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, more preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as a methyl group, said alkyl group possibly being substituted by an aryl group; an alkoxy group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms carbon, preferably of 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular of 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as an ethoxy; or an aryl group having from 6 to 12 carbon atoms; it being understood that if Ra and Rcne do not represent an alkoxy group, then Rb cannot represent a hydrogen atom; - k denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 5, preferably ranging from 0 to 3; - Rf represents a hydrogen atom; an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; or a group with the following formula (lia): z (IIa) V' in which Rn represents a hydroxyl group (OH); an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl.
[0037] Among the alkoxysilanes of formula (II), their oligomers and / or mixtures thereof, we may mention in particular tetraethoxysilane (TEOS), methyltrimethoxysilane (MTMS), methyltriethoxysilane (MTES), dimethyltriethoxysilane (DMDES), diethyltriethoxysilane, dipropyltriethoxysilane, propyltriethoxysilane, risobutyltriethoxysilane, phenyltriethoxysilane, phenylmethyltriethoxysilane, diphenyltriethoxysilane, benzyltriethoxysilane, benzylmethyltriethoxysilane, di-benzyldiethoxysilane, acetoxymethyltriethoxysilane and mixtures thereof.
[0038] TEOS can for example be purchased from the company EVONIK under the name Dynasylan® A or Dynasylan® A SQ.
[0039] MTES can for example be purchased from the company EVONIK under the name Dynasylan® MTES.
[0040] The DMDES can for example be purchased from the company GELEST under the reference SID3404.0.
[0041] Preferably, the alkoxysilane(s) of formula (II), their oligomers and / or mixtures thereof are such that: - Ra represents an alkoxy group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as a methoxy or an ethoxy; or an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms possibly substituted by an aryl group, preferably 1 to 2 carbon atoms possibly substituted by an aryl group; - Rb represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as a methyl or an ethyl; - Rc represents an alkoxy group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as a methoxy or an ethoxy - k denotes an integer from 0 to 3, preferably equal to 0; - Rf represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as a methyl or an ethyl.
[0042] More preferably, the alkoxysilane(s) of formula (II), their oligomers and / or mixtures thereof are such that: - Ra represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as a methyl or an ethyl; - Rb represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as a methyl or an ethyl; - Rc represents an alkoxy group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as a methoxy or an ethoxy - k denotes an integer equal to 0; - Rf represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as a methyl or an ethyl.
[0043] According to a preferred embodiment, alkoxysilane of formula (II), its oligomers and / or mixtures thereof, is methyltrimethoxysilane (MTMS) or methyltriethoxysilane (MTES).
[0044] The alkoxysilane(s) of formula (II), its oligomers and / or mixtures thereof may be present in a total quantity of 0.5 to 90% by weight, preferably 1 to 75%, preferably 3 to 45% by weight, better 5 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A. Organic solvents:
[0045] Composition A according to the invention may comprise one or more organic solvents.
[0046] Examples of organic solvents include lower CrC4 alkanols such as ethanol and isopropanol; polyols and polyol ethers such as glycerol, 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, as well as aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.
[0047] Preferably, composition A according to the invention comprises ethanol.
[0048] The organic solvent(s) may be present in a total quantity from 1 to 70% by weight, preferably from 5 to 55% by weight, more preferably from 10 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A according to the invention. Composition B: Film-forming polymer:
[0049] Composition B according to the invention comprises at least one film-forming polymer.
[0050] Preferably, the film-forming polymer(s) are chosen from among the polymers hydrophilic film-forming polymers, hydrophobic film-forming polymers, and their mixtures.
[0051] For the purposes of this invention, "polymer" means a compound consisting of the repetition of one or more motifs (these motifs being derived from compounds called monomers). This motif or these motifs are repeated at least twice and preferably at least three times.
[0052] By "hydrophobic polymer" is meant a polymer having a solubility in water at 25°C of less than 1% by weight.
[0053] By "hydrophilic polymer" is meant a polymer having a solubility in water at 25°C greater than or equal to 1% by weight.
[0054] By "film-forming" polymer, we mean a polymer capable of forming, on its own or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a macroscopically continuous film on a support, in particular on keratinous materials, and preferably a cohesive film.
[0055] According to a preferred embodiment, the film-forming polymer(s) are chosen from hydrophobic film-forming polymers.
[0056] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the hydrophobic film-forming polymer is a polymer selected from the group comprising: - film-forming polymers soluble in an organic solvent medium, in particular liposoluble polymers; this means that the polymer is soluble or miscible in the organic medium and will form a single homogeneous phase when incorporated into the medium. - Film-forming polymers dispersible in an organic solvent medium; this means that the polymer forms an insoluble phase in the organic medium, the polymer remaining stable and / or compatible once incorporated into this medium. In particular, such polymers can be in the form of non-aqueous dispersions of polymer particles, preferably dispersions in silicone or hydrocarbon oils; in one embodiment, the non-aqueous polymer dispersions comprise polymer particles stabilized on their surface by at least one stabilizing agent; these non-aqueous dispersions are often called "NADs (non-aqueous dispersions)". - Film-forming polymers in the form of aqueous dispersions of polymer particles, this means that the polymer forms a phase insoluble in water, the polymer remaining stable and / or compatible once incorporated into water, the polymer particles being able to be stabilized on their surface by at least one stabilizing agent. These polymer particles are often called "latex"; in this case, the composition must include an aqueous phase.
[0057] Among the hydrophobic film-forming polymers that can be used in the composition of the present invention, we can mention synthetic polymers, of radical type or of polycondensate type, polymers of natural origin and their mixtures.
[0058] Examples of hydrophobic film-forming polymers include acrylic polymers, polyurethanes, polyesters, polyamides, polyureas, cellulosic polymers such as nitrocellulose, silicone polymers, acrylamide-type polymers, and polyisoprenes.
[0059] Non-ionic, amphoteric, anionic or cationic hydrophobic film-forming polymers may be used.
[0060] Preferably, the hydrophobic film-forming polymer(s) according to the invention are chosen from acrylic acid copolymers, methacrylic acid copolymers, acrylic acid ester homopolymers or copolymers, methacrylic acid ester homopolymers or copolymers, acrylic acid amide homopolymers or copolymers, methacrylic acid amide homopolymers or copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, vinyl alcohol copolymers, vinyl acetate copolymers, ethylene homopolymers or copolymers, propylene homopolymers or copolymers, styrene homopolymers or copolymers, polyurethanes, polyesters and / or polyamides.
[0061] The hydrophobic film-forming polymer can be selected from homopolymers and copolymers of olefins such as cycloolefins; butadiene; isoprene; styrene; vinyl ethers, esters or amides; (meth)acrylic acid esters or amides containing a linear, branched or cyclic Ci-C20 alkyl group, a C6-Ci0 aryl group or a C2-C6 hydroxyalkyl group.
[0062] The hydrophobic film-forming polymer can in particular be chosen from homopolymers and copolymers that can be obtained from monomers chosen from the group consisting of isooctyl (meth)acrylate, isononyl (meth)acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl (meth)acrylate, lauryl (meth)acrylate, isopentyl (meth)acrylate, n-butyl (meth)acrylate, isobutyl (meth)acrylate, ethyl (meth)acrylate, methyl (meth)acrylate, tert-butyl (meth)acrylate, tridecyl (meth)acrylate, stearyl (meth)acrylate, hydroxyethyl (meth)acrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl (meth)acrylate, benzyl or phenyl acrylate, or mixtures thereof.
[0063] One can cite for example the ethylene / sodium acrylate copolymer marketed under the trade name ECOSMOOTH SATIN® by the company Dow.
[0064] The hydrophobic film-forming polymer can in particular be chosen from among the homopolymers and copolymers that can be obtained from amides of monomers Acids, we can cite (meth)acrylamides, and in particular N-alkyl (meth)acrylamides, especially alkyl in C2-Ci2 such as N-ethyl acrylamide, Nt-butyl acrylamide, N-octyl acrylamide; N-dialkyl (C1-C4) (meth)acrylamides, perfluoroalkyl (meth)acrylates.
[0065] We can also mention copolymers whose CTFA designation (4th Ed., 1991) is Octylacrylamide / acrylates / butylaminoethyl-methacrylate copolymer, such as the products sold under the name AMPHOMER® or LOVOCRYL® 47 by the company NATIONAL STARCH as well as copolymers whose CTFA designation is Acrylates / octylacrylamide copolymer, such as the products sold under the name DERMACRYL® LT or DERMACRYL® 79 by the company NATIONAL STARCH.
[0066] According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrophobic film-forming polymer(s) according to the invention are chosen from anionic copolymers.
[0067] Preferably, the anionic copolymers according to the invention are copolymers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or (meth)acrylic acid esters containing a linear, branched or cyclic Ci-C6 alkyl group, as described under the INCI name Acrylates.
[0068] Such copolymers are marketed by the company ROHM AND HAAS under the name Aculyn®33.
[0069] Copolymers of unsaturated ethylenic acid esters and alkoxylated fatty alcohols can also be used according to the invention. Such unsaturated ethylenic acid esters are in particular acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and itaconic acid, and such alkoxylated fatty alcohols are in particular steareth-20 and ceteth-20.
[0070] Examples include Aculyn®22 (Acrylates / Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer), Aculyn®28 (Acrylates / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer), Structure 2001® (Acrylates / Steareth-20 Itaconate Copolymer), Structure 3001® (Acrylates / Ceteth-20 Itaconate Copolymer), Structure Plus® (Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl PEG-20 Itaconate Amino-acrylate Copolymer), Carbopol® 1342, 1382, Ultrez 20, Ultrez 21 (Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer), Synthalen W2000® (Acrylates / Palmeth-25 Acrylate Copolymer) or SOLTEX OPT (copolymer acrylates / Ci2-22 alkyl methacrylate) marketed by the company ROHM AND HAAS.
[0071] The hydrophobic film-forming polymer can also be chosen from homopolymers and copolymers that can be obtained from vinyl monomers. Examples include homopolymers or copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone, vinylca-prolactam, vinyl N-alkyl(Cl-C6)pyrroles, vinyl-oxazoles, vinyl-thiazoles, vinyl-pyrimidine, or vinylimidazole.
[0072] Examples of vinylpyrrolidone copolymers that can be used in the invention include VP / vinyl laurate copolymer, VP / vinyl stearate copolymer, butylated polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), VP / hexadecene marketed by ISP under the name Ganex V216, VP / eicosene marketed by ISP under the name Ganex V220, VP / triacontene or VP / acrylic acid / lauryl methacrylate.
[0073] The hydrophobic film-forming polymer can also be chosen from homopolymers and copolymers that can be obtained from olefins such as ethylene, propylene, butenes, isoprene, butadienes.
[0074] In one embodiment, the hydrophobic film-forming polymer according to the invention is a block copolymer comprising at least one block made of styrene or styrene derivative units (for example, methylstyrene, chlorostyrene, or chloromethylstyrene). The copolymer comprising at least one styrene block may be a diblock or triblock copolymer, or even a multiblock, star, or radial copolymer. The copolymer comprising at least one styrene block may further comprise, for example, an alkylstyrene block (AS), an ethylene / butylene block (EB), an ethylene / propylene block (EP), a butadiene block (B), an isoprene block (I), an acrylate block (A), a methacrylate block (MA), or a combination of these blocks.The copolymer comprising at least one block made up of styrene motifs or styrene derivatives may be a diblock or triblock copolymer, and in particular of the polystyrene / polyisoprene or polystyrene / polybutadiene type, such as those marketed or manufactured under the name "Luvitol HSB" by BASF SE.
[0075] Preferably, the hydrophobic film-forming polymer(s) according to the invention are chosen from vinylpyrrolidone (co)polymers, vinylalcohol (co)polymers, vinylacetate (co)polymers, carboxyvinyl (co)polymers, acrylic acid (co)polymers, methacrylic acid (co)polymers, acrylic acid ester (co)polymers, ethylene (co)polymers, acrylamide (co)polymers and mixtures thereof.
[0076] More preferably, the hydrophobic film-forming polymer(s) are chosen from vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, acrylamide copolymers, acrylic acid ester homopolymers or copolymers, ethylene homopolymers or copolymers and mixtures thereof.
[0077] According to another preferred embodiment, the film-forming polymer(s) are chosen from among hydrophilic film-forming polymers.
[0078] Non-ionic, anionic or cationic hydrophilic film-forming polymers may be used.
[0079] The hydrophilic film-forming polymer can be selected from vinylpyrrolidone (co)polymers, vinyl alcohol (co)polymers, vinyl acetate polymers, carboxyvinyl (co)polymers, acrylic acid (co)polymers, methacrylic acid (co)polymers, natural gums, polysaccharides and / or acrylamide (co)polymers.
[0080] Preferably, the hydrophilic film-forming polymer is chosen from vinylpyrrolidone (PVP) homopolymers and / or vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, more preferably vinylpyrrolidone (PVP) homopolymers.
[0081] Examples include vinylpyrrolidone (PVP) homopolymers marketed under the name Luviskol® K by BASF SE, in particular Luviskol® K 90 or Luviskol® K 85 by BASF SE.
[0082] The PVP K30 polymer marketed by Ashland Inc. (ISP, POI Chemical) can also be used. PVP K30 is a cold-water soluble polyvinylpyrrolidone polymer with CAS number 9003-39-8 and a molecular weight of 40.000 g / mol.
[0083] Other vinylpyrrolidone homopolymers suitable for the invention are marketed under the trade name LUVITEC K 17, LUVITEC K 30, LUVITEC K 60, LUVITEC K 60, LUVITEC K 80, LUVITEC K 85, LUVITEC K 90 and LUVITEC K 115 by BASF SE.
[0084] We can also mention the vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers marketed under the name Luviskol® by BASF SE, in particular the non-ionic polymers Luviskol® VA64 and Luviskol® VA73 (vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers).
[0085] We can also mention styrene / vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / DMAPA acrylates copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl caprolactam / DMAPA acrylates copolymers.
[0086] Vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl caprolactam / DMAPA acrylates copolymers may be marketed by Ashland Inc. under the trade name Aquaflex® SF-40.
[0087] Vinylpyrrolidone / DMAPA acrylates copolymers may be marketed by Ashland Inc. under the trade name Styleze CC-10.
[0088] As copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, mention may be made of copolymers obtained by reaction of N-vinylpyrrolidone with at least one monomer chosen from N-vinylformamide, vinyl acetate, ethylene, propylene, acrylamide or vinylca-prolactam.
[0089] According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrophilic film-forming polymer(s) are selected from vinylpyrrolidone (PVP) homopolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / styrene copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / ethylene copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / propylene copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl caprolactam copolymers, copolymers vinylpyrrolidone / vinylformamide, vinylpyrrolidone / vinylalcohol copolymers, and mixtures thereof.
[0090] Preferably, the film-forming polymer(s) are chosen from vinylpyrrolidone (PVP) homopolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / styrene copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / ethylene copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / propylene copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl caprolactam copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinylformamide copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinylalcohol copolymers, acrylamide copolymers, acrylic acid ester homopolymers or copolymers, ethylene homopolymers or copolymers and mixtures thereof.
[0091] More preferably, the film-forming polymer(s) are chosen from vinylpyrrolidone (PVP) homopolymers, acrylamide copolymers, acrylic acid ester homopolymers or copolymers, ethylene homopolymers or copolymers and mixtures thereof.
[0092] The film-forming polymer(s) may be present in a total quantity ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 25% by weight, even better from 1 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B. Composition A and / or B Coloring agent:
[0093] Composition A and / or composition B according to the invention comprises (include) at least one coloring agent selected from pigments, direct colorants and their mixtures.
[0094] Preferably, composition A according to the invention comprises at least one coloring agent selected from pigments, direct dyes and their mixtures.
[0095] Preferably, composition A and / or composition B according to the invention comprises (include) one or more pigments.
[0096] Preferably, the coloring agent(s) are chosen from pigments.
[0097] The term "pigment" means all pigments that impart color to keratinous materials. Their solubility in water at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) is less than 0.05% by weight, and preferably less than 0.01% by weight.
[0098] The pigments that can be used are chosen in particular from among the organic and / or mineral pigments known in the art, in particular those described in Kirk-Othmer's Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology and in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry.
[0099] They may be natural, of natural origin, or not.
[0100] These pigments may be in the form of a powder or pigment paste. They may be coated or uncoated.
[0101] Pigments can, for example, be chosen from mineral pigments, organic pigments, lacquers, special effect pigments such as mother-of-pearl or glitter, and mixtures thereof.
[0102] The pigment may be a mineral pigment. By mineral pigment, we mean any pigment that meets the definition in the Ullmann Encyclopedia in the chapter on inorganic pigments. Examples of mineral pigments useful in the present invention include iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue, and titanium dioxide.
[0103] The pigment may be an organic pigment. By "organic pigment" is meant any pigment that meets the definition in the Ullmann encyclopedia in the chapter on organic pigment.
[0104] The organic pigment may in particular be selected from the following compounds: nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline, quinoline, anthraquinone, triphenylmethane, fluorane, phthalocyanine, metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, qui-nacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, indigo, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone.
[0105] In particular, the white or colored organic pigments may be selected from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, the blue pigments coded in the Color Index under references Cl 42090, 69800, 69825, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments coded in the Color Index under references Cl 11680, 11710, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the green pigments coded in the Color Index under references Cl 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments coded in the Color Index under reference CI 11725, 45370, 71105, the red pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole, phenolic derivatives as described in patent FR 2 679 771.
[0106] By way of example, one can also cite organic pigment pastes such as the products sold by the company HOECHST under the name: - COSMENYL YELLOW IOG: Pigment YELLOW 3 (Cl 11710); - COSMENYL YELLOW G: Pigment YELLOW 1 (Cl 11680); - ORANGE COSMENYL GR: Pigment ORANGE 43 (Cl 71105); - COSMENYL RED R: Pigment RED 4 (Cl 12085); - CARMIN COSMENYL FB: Pigment RED 5 (Cl 12490); - VIOLET COSMENYL RL: Pigment VIOLET 23 (Cl 51319); - COSMENYL BLUE A2R: Pigment BLUE 15.1 (Cl 74160); - VERT COSMENYL GG: Pigment GREEN 7 (Cl 74260); - COSMENYL BLACK R: Pigment BLACK 7 (Cl 77266).
[0107] The pigments according to the invention can also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments can be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core, at least one binder ensuring the fixation of organic pigments on the core, and at least one organic pigment covering at least partially the core.
[0108] The organic pigment can also be a lake. By lake, we mean colorants adsorbed onto insoluble particles, the whole thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.
[0109] The inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminium borosilicate, and aluminium.
[0110] Among the colorants, we can mention carminic acid. We can also mention the colorants known under the following names: D & C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D & C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D & C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D & C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D & C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D & C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D & C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D & C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D & C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D & C Green (CI 61 570), D & C Yellow 1 O (CI 77 002), D & C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D & C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).
[0111] As examples of lacquers, we can cite the product known under the following name: D & C Red 7 (CI 15 850 :1).
[0112] The pigment can also be a special effects pigment. Special effects pigments are defined as pigments that generally create a non-uniform and changing colored appearance (characterized by a certain shade, vibrancy, and clarity) depending on the viewing conditions (light, temperature, viewing angles, etc.). They are thus distinct from colored pigments that provide a uniform opaque, semi-transparent, or conventionally transparent tint.
[0113] There are several types of special effect pigments, those with a low refractive index such as fluorescent or photochromic pigments, and those with a higher refractive index such as mother-of-pearl, interference pigments or glitter.
[0114] Examples of special effect pigments include pearlescent pigments such as titanium-coated mica or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium-coated mica with iron oxides, iron oxide-coated mica, titanium-coated mica, particularly with ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium-coated mica with an organic pigment as defined above, and bismuth oxychloride-based pearlescent pigments. Examples of pearlescent pigments include Cellini pearlescent pigments marketed by BASF (Mica-TiO2-lacquer), Prestige pearlescent pigments marketed by Eckart (Mica-TiO2), and Prestige Bronze. marketed by Eckart (Mica-Fe2O3) Colorona marketed by Merck (Mica-TiO2-Fe2O3).
[0115] We can also mention gold-colored mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by BASF under the names Brilliant Gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle Gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch Gold 233X (Cloisonne); bronze mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by MERCK under the names Bronze Fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by BASF under the name Super Bronze (Cloisonne); orange mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by BASF under the names Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by MERCK under the names Passion Orange (Colorona) and Matte Orange (17449) (Microna); brown-tinted mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by BASF under the names Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); copper-tinted mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by BASF under the name Copper 340A (Timica);red-tinted mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by MERCK under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); yellow-tinted mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by BASF under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); red-tinted mother-of-pearl with a gold sheen, notably marketed by BASF under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); pink mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by BASF under the name Tan opale G005 (Gemtone);black mother-of-pearl with a gold sheen, notably marketed by BASF under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica); blue mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by MERCK under the name Matte blue (17433) (Microna); white mother-of-pearl with a silver sheen, notably marketed by MERCK under the name Xirona Silver; and orange-pink-green-gold mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by MERCK under the name Indian summer (Xirona), and their mixtures.
[0116] As further examples of nacres, we can also mention particles comprising a borosilicate substrate coated with titanium oxide.
[0117] Particles with a glass substrate coated with titanium oxide are notably sold under the name METASHINE MC1080RY by the company TOYAL.
[0118] Finally, examples of mother-of-pearl include polyethylene terephthalate flakes, particularly those marketed by Meadowbrook Inventions under the name Silver IP 0.004X0.004 (silver flakes). Multilayer pigments based on synthetic substrates such as alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum can also be considered.
[0119] Special effect pigments can also be selected from the particles Reflecting particles, that is to say, particles whose size, structure (particularly the thickness of the layer(s) that constitute them), their physical and chemical nature, and surface condition allow them to reflect incident light. This reflection can, where applicable, be intense enough to create visible highlights on the surface of the composition or mixture when applied to the makeup base; these are brighter spots that contrast with their surroundings, appearing to shine.
[0120] The reflective particles can be selected so as not to significantly alter the coloring effect generated by the coloring agents associated with them, and more particularly so as to optimize this effect in terms of color rendering. They may, in particular, have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold, and / or copper color or reflection.
[0121] These particles can have various shapes, including being platelet-shaped or globular, particularly spherical.
[0122] Reflective particles, whatever their shape, may or may not have a multilayer structure and, in the case of a multilayer structure, for example at least one layer of uniform thickness, in particular of a reflective material.
[0123] When the reflective particles do not have a multilayer structure, they can be composed, for example, of metal oxides, in particular titanium or iron oxides obtained by synthesis.
[0124] When reflective particles have a multilayer structure, they may, for example, comprise a natural or synthetic substrate, in particular a synthetic substrate at least partially coated by at least one layer of a reflective material, in particular at least one metal or metallic material. The substrate may be monomaterial, multimaterial, organic and / or inorganic.
[0125] More particularly, it may be selected from glasses, ceramics, graphite, metal oxides, aluminas, silicas, silicates, in particular aluminosilicates and borosilicates, synthetic mica and their mixtures, this list not being exhaustive.
[0126] The reflective material may include a layer of metal or a metallic material.
[0127] Reflective particles are described in particular in documents JP-A-09188830, JP-A-10158450, JP-A-10158541, JP-A-07258460 and JP-A-05017710.
[0128] As further examples of reflective particles comprising a mineral substrate coated with a layer of metal, one can also mention particles comprising a borosilicate substrate coated with silver.
[0129] Silver-coated glass substrate particles in the form of platelets are sold under the name MICROGLASS METASHINE REFSX 2025 PS by the TOYAL company. Particles with a glass substrate coated with nickel / chromium / molybdenum alloy are sold under the name CRYSTAL STAR GF 550, GF 2525 by this same company.
[0130] Particles comprising a metallic substrate such as silver, aluminum, iron, chromium, nickel, molybdenum, gold, copper, zinc, tin, magnesium, steel, bronze, titanium may also be used, said substrate being coated with at least one layer of at least one metallic oxide such as titanium oxide, aluminum oxide, iron oxide, cerium oxide, chromium oxide, silicon oxides and mixtures thereof.
[0131] An example can be cited as aluminium, bronze or copper powders coated with SiO2 marketed under the name VISIONAIRE by the company ECKART.
[0132] Other examples include non-substrate interference pigments such as liquid crystals (Wacker's Helicones HC) and interference holographic glitter (Spectratek's Geometry Pigments or Spectra f / x). Special effect pigments also include fluorescent pigments, whether daylight fluorescent or ultraviolet fluorescent, phosphorescent pigments, photochromic pigments, thermochromic pigments, and quantum dots, marketed, for example, by Quantum Dots Corporation.
[0133] The variety of pigments that can be used in the present invention makes it possible to obtain a rich palette of colors, as well as particular optical effects such as metallic, interference effects.
[0134] The size of the pigment used in the composition according to the present invention is generally between 5 nm and 200 µm, preferably between 7 nm and 80 µm, and more preferably between 10 nm and 50 µm.
[0135] The pigments can be dispersed within the composition by means of a dispersing agent.
[0136] The dispersing agent serves to protect the dispersed particles from agglomeration or flocculation. This dispersing agent may be a surfactant, an oligomer, a polymer, or a mixture of several of these, possessing one or more functionalities with a strong affinity for the surface of the particles to be dispersed. In particular, they may adhere physically or chemically to the surface of the pigments. These dispersants also have at least one functional group that is compatible with or soluble in the continuous medium.In particular, esters of 12-hydroxystearic acid are used, especially C8 to C20 fatty acids and polyols such as glycerol, diglycerin, such as poly(12-hydroxystearic acid) stearate with a molecular weight of about 750g / mol such as that sold under the name Solsperse 21 000 by the company Avecia, polygyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (name CTFA) sold under the reference. Dehymyls PGPH by the company Henkel or polyhydroxy stearic acid such as that sold under the reference Arlacel P100 by the company Uniqema and their mixtures.
[0137] As another dispersant that can be used in the compositions of the invention, we can mention quaternary ammonium derivatives of polycondensed fatty acids such as Solsperse 17 000 sold by Avecia, poly dimethylsiloxane / oxypropylene mixtures such as those sold by Dow Corning under the references DC2-5185, DC2-5225 C.
[0138] The pigments used in the composition can be surface treated with an organic agent.
[0139] Thus the pigments previously surface treated useful in the context of the invention are pigments which have undergone totally or partially a surface treatment of a chemical, electronic, electro-chemical, mechano-chemical or mechanical nature, with an organic agent such as those described in particular in Cosmetics and Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, p. 53-64 before being dispersed in the composition according to the invention.These organic agents can be chosen, for example, from waxes, such as carnauba wax and beeswax; fatty acids, fatty alcohols and their derivatives, such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid, stearyl alcohol, hydroxystearyl alcohol, lauric acid and their derivatives; anionic surfactants; lecithins; sodium, potassium, magnesium, iron, titanium, zinc or aluminum salts of fatty acids, for example aluminum stearate or laurate; polyethylene; (meth)acrylic polymers, for example polymethylmethacrylates; polymers and copolymers containing acrylate motifs; alkanoamines; fluorinated organic compounds, for example perfluoroalkyl ethers; fluorosilicone compounds.
[0140] The surface-treated pigments useful in the composition may also have been treated by a mixture of these compounds and / or have undergone several surface treatments.
[0141] The surface-treated pigments useful in the context of the present invention can be prepared using surface treatment techniques well known to those skilled in the art or found as such in the commercial market.
[0142] Preferably, the surface-treated pigments are covered by an organic layer.
[0143] The organic agent with which the pigments are treated can be deposited on the pigments by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction between the molecules of the surfactant or creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the pigments.
[0144] Surface treatment can thus be carried out, for example, by a chemical reaction of a surfactant with the surface of the pigments and the creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the pigments or fillers. This method is notably described in US patent 4,578,266.
[0145] Preferably, an organic agent covalently linked to the pigments will be used.
[0146] The surface treatment agent can represent from 0.1 to 50% by weight of the total weight of the pigment treated on the surface, preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, and even more preferably from 1 to 20% by weight of the total weight of the pigment treated on the surface.
[0147] Preferably, the surface treatments of the pigments are chosen from the following treatments: - a PEG-Silicone treatment such as the AQ surface treatment marketed by LCW; - a Methicone treatment such as the SI surface treatment marketed by LCW; - a Dimethicone treatment such as the Covasil 3.05 surface treatment marketed by LCW; - a Dimethicone / Trimethylsiloxysilicate treatment such as the Covasil 4.05 surface treatment marketed by LCW; - a Magnesium Myristate treatment such as the MM surface treatment marketed by LCW; - a Dimyristate Aluminium treatment such as the MI surface treatment marketed by Miyoshi; - a Perfluoropolymethylisopropyl ether treatment such as the FHC surface treatment marketed by LCW; - an Isostearyl Sebacate treatment such as the HS surface treatment marketed by Miyoshi; - a Perfluoroalkyl Phosphate treatment such as the PF surface treatment marketed by Daito; - an acrylate / dimethicone copolymer and perfluoalkyl phosphate treatment such as the FSA surface treatment marketed by Daito; - a Polymethylhydrogen siloxane / Perfluoroalkyl Phosphate treatment such as the FS01 surface treatment marketed by Daito; - an Acrylate / Dimethicone Copolymer treatment such as the ASC surface treatment marketed by Daito; - an Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate treatment such as the ITT surface treatment marketed by Daito; - an Acrylate copolymer treatment such as the APD surface treatment marketed by Daito; - a Perfluoroalkyl Phosphate / Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate treatment such as the PF + ITT surface treatment marketed by Daito.
[0148] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the dispersing agent is present with organic or inorganic pigments in submicron-sized particulate form in the coloring composition.
[0149] By "sub-micronic" or in English "sub-micronic" is meant pigments whose particle size has been micronized by micronization method and whose average particle size is less than one micrometer (pm), in particular between 0.1 and 0.9 pm, and preferably between 0.2 and 0.6 pm.
[0150] According to one embodiment, the dispersing agent and the pigment(s) are present in an amount (dispersant: pigment) between 1:4 and 4:1, particularly between 1.5:3.5 and 3.5:1 or better between 1.75:3 and 3:1.
[0151] The dispersing agent(s) may therefore have a silicone backbone, such as silicone polyether and amino-silicone dispersants, other than the amino silicones or alkoxysilanes of formula (I) or formula (T) previously described in the application. Suitable dispersing agents include: - amino-silicones, i.e. silicones comprising one or more amino groups, such as those marketed under the names and references: BYK LPX 21879, by BYK, GP-4, GP-6, GP-344, GP-851, GP-965, GP-967 and GP-988-1, marketed by Genesee les polymers, - silicone acrylates such as Tego ® RC 902, Tego ® RC 922, Tego ® RC 1041, and Tego ® RC 1043, marketed by Evonik, - polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) silicones with carboxylic groups such as X-22162 and X-22370 by Shin-Etsu, silicone epoxy such as GP-29, GP-32, GP-502, GP-504, GP-514, GP-607, GP-682, and GP-695, by Genesee Polymers, or Tego ® RC 1401, Tego ® RC 1403, Tego ® RC 1412, by Evonik.
[0152] According to a particular embodiment, the dispersing agent(s) are of the amino-silicone type, different from the amino silicones or alkoxysilanes of formula (I) or formula (T) previously described in the application and are cationic.
[0153] Preferably, the pigment(s) is / are chosen from mineral, mixed mineral-organic or organic pigments.
[0154] In one embodiment of the invention, the pigment(s) according to the invention are organic pigments. In another embodiment of the invention, the pigment(s) according to the invention are mineral pigments.
[0155] Composition A and / or composition B according to the invention may (can) comprise one or more direct dye(s).
[0156] By "direct dye," we mean natural and / or synthetic dyes, different from oxidation dyes. These are dyes that will diffuse superficially onto the fiber.
[0157] They can be ionic or non-ionic, preferably anionic, cationic or non-ionic.
[0158] Examples of suitable direct dyes that may be mentioned include azo direct dyes; (poly)methine dyes such as cyanines, hemicyanines and styryls; carbonyl dyes; azine dyes; nitro(hetero)aryl dyes; tri(hetero)arylmethane dyes; porphyrin dyes; phthalocyanine dyes and natural direct dyes, alone or in mixtures.
[0159] Direct dyes are preferably cationic direct dyes. Examples include the hydrazono cationic dyes of formulas (III) and (IV), and the azo cationic dyes (V) and (VI) shown below: (III) Her-C(Ra)=NN <Rb)-Ar, Q Het <N0U)-N=C(Rb)-Ar, Q- HeF-N=N-Ar Q- Ar <N=N-Ar’\ Q- formulas (III) to (VI) in which: - Het+ represents a cationic heteroaryl radical, preferably with endocyclic cationic charge such as imidazolium, indolium, or pyridinium, possibly preferentially substituted by at least one (Ci-C8)alkyl group such as methyl; - Ar+ represents an aryl radical, such as phenyl or naphthyl, with an exocyclic cationic charge, preferably ammonium, particularly tri(Ci-C8)alkyl-ammonium such as trimethylammonium; - Ar represents an aryl group, in particular phenyl, possibly substituted, preferably by one or more electron-donating groups such as i) (Ci-C8)alkyl possibly substituted, ii) (Ci-C8)alkoxy possibly substituted, iii) (di)(Ci-C8)(alkyl)amino possibly substituted on the alkyl group(s) by a hydroxyl group, iv) aryl(Ci-C8)alkylamino, v) N-(Ci-C8)alkyl-N-aryl(Ci-C8)alkylamino possibly substituted or else Ar represents a julolidine group; - Ar” represents a (hetero)aryl group possibly substituted such as phenyl or pyrazolyl possibly substituted, preferably by one or more (CrC8)alkyl, hydroxyl, (di)(Ci-C8)(alkyl)amino, (CrC8)alkoxy or phenyl groups; - Ra and Rb, identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a (CrC8)alkyl group, possibly substituted, preferably by a
[0160]
[0161] hydroxyl group; or the substituent Ra with a substituent of Het+ and / or Rb with a substituent of Ar together form with the atoms which bear them a (hetero)cycloalkyl; particularly Ra and Rb, representing a hydrogen atom or a (CrC4)alkyl group possibly substituted by a hydroxyl group; - Q- represents an organic or mineral anionic counter-ion such as a halide or an alkyl sulfate. In particular, we can mention the endo-cyclic cationic direct dyes of azo and hydrazono of formula (III) to (VI) as defined above. More specifically, the endo-cyclic cationic direct dyes described in patent applications WO 95 / 15144, WO 95 / 01772 and EP-714954. Preferably the following direct dyes: (SEEN)
[0162] formulas (VII) and (VIII) in which: - R1 represents an (Ci-C4)alkyl group such as methyl; - R2 and R3, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an (Ci-C4)alkyl group such as methyl; and - R4 represents a hydrogen atom or an electron-donating group such as (Ci-C8)alkyl possibly substituted, (Ci-C8)alkoxy possibly substituted, (di)(CrC8)(alkyl)amino possibly substituted on the alkyl group(s) by a hydroxyl group; particularly R4 is a hydrogen atom, - Z represents a CH group or a nitrogen atom, preferably CH, - Q- is an anionic counter ion as defined previously, particularly a halide such as chloride or an alkyl sulfate such as methyl sulfate or mesytyl. In particular, dyes of formula (VII) and (VIII) are chosen from Basic Red 51, Basic Yellow 87 and Basic Orange 31 or their derivatives with Q' an anionic counter ion as defined previously, particularly a halide such as chloride or an alkyl sulfate such as methyl sulfate or mesytyl.
[0163] Direct dyes can be selected from anionic direct dyes. The anionic direct dyes of the invention are dyes commonly called "acid" direct dyes because of their affinity for alkali substances. Anionic direct dyes are understood to mean any direct dye having in its structure at least one CO2R or SO3R substituent, where R designates a hydrogen atom or a cation from a metal or an amine, or an ammonium ion. Anionic dyes can be selected from acidic nitro direct dyes, acidic azo dyes, acidic azinic dyes, acidic triarylmethanic dyes, acidic indoamine dyes, acidic anthraquinone dyes, indigoids, and acidic natural dyes.
[0164] By way of acid dyes according to the invention, the following dyes of formulas (IX), (IX'), (X), (X'), (XI), (XI'), (XII), (XII'), (XIII), (XIV), (XV) and (XVI) may be cited: a) Diaryl anionic azo dyes of formula (IX) or (IX'): formulas (IX) and (IX') in which: R7, R8, R9, R1o, R'7, R'8, R'9 and R'1O, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from: - alkyl; - alkoxy, alkylthio; - hydroxy, mercapto; - nitro, nitroso; - R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X'-C(X)-, R°-X'-C(X)-X”- with R° representing a hydrogen atom, an alkyl or aryl group; X, X' and X”, identical or different, re exhibiting oxygen, sulfur or NR atony with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group; - (O)2S(O-)-, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counter-ion; - (O)CO—, M+ with M+ as defined previously; - R”-S(O)2-, with R” representing a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group, an aryl group, (di)(alkyl)amino, aryl(alkyl)amino; preferably a phenylamino or phenyl group; - R”'-S(O)2-X'- with R'” representing an alkyl group, possibly substituted aryl, X' as defined previously; - (di)(alkyl)amino; - aryl(alkyl)amino possibly substituted by one or more groups chosen from i) nitro; ii) nitroso; iii) (O)2S(O-)-, M+ and iv) alkoxy with M+ as defined above; - heteroaryl possibly substituted; preferably a benzo-thiazolyl group; - cycloalkyl; in particular cyclohexyl, - Ar-N=N- with Ar representing an aryl group possibly substituted; preferably a phenyl possibly substituted by one or more alkyl groups, (O)2S(O-)-, M+ or phenylamino; - or two contiguous groups R7 with R8 or R8 with R9 or R9 with R10 together form a fused benzo group A'; and R'7 with R'8 or R'8 with R'9 or R'9 with R'10 together form a fused benzo group B'; with A' and B' possibly substituted by one or more groups chosen from i) nitro; ii) nitroso; iii) (O)2S(O-)-, M+; iv) hydroxy; v) mercapto; vi) (di)(alkyl)amino; vii) R°-C(X)-X'-; vüi) R°-X'-C(X)-; ix) R°-X'-C(X)-X”-; x) Ar-N=N- and xi) aryl(alkyl)amino possibly substituted; with M+, R°, X, X', X” and Ar as defined above; - W represents a sigma bond, an oxygen atom, a sulfur atom, or a divalent radical i) -NR- with R as defined previously, or ii) methylene -C(Ra)(Rb)- with Ra and Rb identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or an aryl group, or Ra and Rb together with the carbon atom bearing them form a spiro cycloalkyl; preferably W represents a sulfur atom or Ra and Rb together form a cyclohexyl; provided that formulas (IX) and (IX') comprise at least one sulfonate radical (O)2S(O-)-, M+ or one carboxylate radical (O)CO-, M+ on one of the rings A, A', B, B' or C; preferably sodium sulfonate;
[0165] By way of example of colorants of formula (IX) we may mention: Acid Red 1, Acid Red 4, Acid Red 13, Acid Red 14, Acid Red 18, Acid Red 27, Acid Red 28, Acid Red 32, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Red 37, Acid Red 40, Acid Red 41, Acid Red 42, Acid Red 44, Pigment red 57, Acid Red 68, Acid Red 73, Acid Red 135, Acid Red 138, Acid Red 184, Food Red 1, Food Red 13, Acid Orange 6, Acid Orange 7, Acid Orange 10, Acid Orange 19, Acid Orange 20, Acid Orange 24, Yellow 6, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Yellow 199, Food Yellow 3; Acid Violet 7, Acid Violet 14, Acid Bine 113, Acid Bine 117, Acid Black 1, Acid Brown 4, Acid Brown 20, Acid Black 26, Acid Black 52, Food Black 1, Food Black 2 ; Food yellow 3 ou sunset yellow; et à titre d’exemple de colorants de formule (IX’) on peut citer : Acid Red 111, Acid Red 134, Acid yellow 38.
[0166] b) les colorants azo anioniques pyrrazolone de formule (X) et (X’) : (X’) formules (X) et (X’) dans lesquelles : - Ru, Rn and Ri3, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom, an alkyl group or -(O)2S(O-), M+ with M+ as defined previously; - Rm represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group or a -C(O)O- group, M+ with M+ as defined previously; - Ru represents a hydrogen atom; - Ris represents an oxo group in which case R' i6 is absent, or else Ri5 with Ri6 together form a double bond; - Ri7 and Ri8, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, or a group chosen from: - (0)2S(0-)-, M+ with M+ as defined previously; - Ar-OS(O)2- with Ar representing an aryl group possibly substituted; preferably a phenyl possibly substituted by one or more alkyl groups; - R19 and R20 together form either a double bond or a benzo D' group, possibly substituted; - R'i6, R'19 and R'20, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl or hydroxy group; - R2i represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group, or alkoxy; Ra and Rb, whether identical or different, are as defined previously, preferably Ra represents a hydrogen atom and Rb represents an aryl group; - Y represents either a hydroxy group or an oxo group; - _ _ _ _ represents a simple bond when Y is an oxo group; and represents a double bond when Y represents a hydroxy group; provided that the formulas (X) and (X') include at least one sulfonate radical (O)2S(O-)-, M+ or one carboxylate radical -C(O)O-, M+ on one of the rings D or E; preferably sodium sulfonate;
[0167] Examples of colorants of formula (X) include: Acid Red 195, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 27, Acid Yellow 76, and examples of colorants of formula (X') include: Acid Yellow 17;
[0168] c) the anthraquinone dyes of formula (XI) and (XI'): formulas (XI) and (XI') in which: - R22, R23, R24, R25, R26 and R27, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom, or a group chosen from: - alkyl; - hydroxy, mercapto; - alkoxy, alkylthio; - aryloxy or arylthio possibly substituted, preferably substituted by one or more groups chosen from alkyl and (O)2S(O-)-, M+ with M+ as defined above; - aryl(alkyl)amino possibly substituted by one or more groups chosen from alkyl and (O)2S(O-)-, M+ with M+ as defined previously; - (di)(alkyl)amino; - (di)(hydroxyalkyl)amino - (O)2S(O-)-, M+ with M+ as defined previously; -Z' represents a hydrogen atom or a group NR28R29 where R28 and R29, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from: - alkyl; - polyhydroxyalkyl such as hydroxyethyl; - aryl possibly substituted by one or more particularly i) alkyl groups such as methyl, n-dodecyl, n-butyl; ii) (O)2S(O-)-, M+ with M+ as defined previously; iii) R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X'-C(X)-, R°-X'-C(X)-X”- with R°, X, X' and X” as defined previously, preferably R° represents an alkyl group; - cycloakyl; in particular cyclohexyl; - Z, represents a group chosen from hydroxy and NR'28R'29 with R'28 and R'29, identical or different, represent the same atoms or groups as R28 and R29 as defined previously; provided that formulas (XI) and (XI') comprise at least one sulfonate radical (O)2S(O-)-, M+ or one carboxylate radical -C(O)O-, M+; preferably sodium sulfonate;
[0169] Examples of colorants of formula (XI) include: Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 41, Acid Violet 42, Acid Violet 43, Mordant Red 3; EXT violet No. 2; and examples of colorants of formula (XI') include: Acid Black 48;
[0170] d) Nitrated dyes of formula (XII), (XII'): (XII) formulas (XII) and (XII') in which: - R30, R31 and R32, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom, or a group chosen from: - alkyl; - alkoxy possibly substituted by one or more hydroxy groups, alkylthio possibly substituted by one or more hydroxy groups; - hydroxy, mercapto; - nitro, nitroso; - polyhalogenoalkyl; - R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X'-C(X)-, R°-X'-C(X)-X”- with R° ; X, X' and X” as defined previously; - (0)2S(0-)-, M+ with M+ as defined previously; - (0)C0—, M+ with M+ as defined previously; - (di)(alkyl)amino; - (di)(hydroxyalkyl)amino; - heterocycloalkyl such as piperidino, piperazino or morpholino; particularly R30, R3i and R32 represent a hydrogen atom; Rc and Rd, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group; - W is as defined previously; W particularly represents a -NH- group; - ALK represents a linear or branched divalent alkylene group, in Ci-C6; particularly ALK represents a -CH2-CH2- group; - n is equal to 1 or 2; - p represents an integer between 1 and 5 inclusive; - q represents an integer between 1 and 4 inclusive; - u is equal to 0 or 1; - when n equals 1, J represents a nitro or nitroso group; particularly nitro - when n equals 2, J represents an oxygen atom, a sulfur atom, or a divalent radical -S(O)m- with m representing an integer 1 or 2; preferably J represents a radical -SO2-; - M' represents a hydrogen atom or a cationic counter-ion; The presence or absence of a benzo group may represent a benzo group. substituted by one or more R30 groups as defined above, it being understood that formulas (XII) and (XII') comprise at least one sulfonate radical (O)2S(O-)-, M+ or one carboxylate radical -C(O)O-, M+; preferably sodium sulfonate.
[0171] By way of example of colorants of formula (XII) the following may be cited: Acid Brown 13; Acid Orange 3; by way of example of colorants of formula (XII') the following may be cited: Acid Yellow 1, Sodium salt of 2,4-dinitro-1-naphthol-7-sulfonic acid, 2-piperidino-5-nitrobenzenesulfonic acid, 2(4'-N,N(2'-hydroxyethyl)amino-2'-nitro)aniline ethanesulfonic acid, 4-[3-hydroxyethylamino-3-nitrobenzenesulfonic acid; EXT D&C yellow 7;
[0172] e) triarylmethane dyes of formula (XIII): (XIII) formula (XIII) in which: - R33, R34, R35 and R36, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from alkyl, possibly substituted aryl and possibly substituted arylalkyl; particularly an alkyl and benzyl group possibly substituted by an (O)mS(O-)-, M+ group with M+ and m as defined previously; - R37, R38, R39, R40, R41, R42, R43 and R44, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from: - alkyl; - alkoxy, alkylthio; - (di)(alkyl)amino; - hydroxy, mercapto; - nitro, nitroso; - R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X'-C(X)-, R°-X'-C(X)-X”- with R° representing a hydrogen atom, an alkyl or aryl group; X, X' and X”, identical or different, representing an oxygen, sulfur or NR atom with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group; - (O)2S(O-)-, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counter-ion; - (O)CO—, M+ with M+ as defined previously; - or two contiguous groups R4[ with R42 or R42 with R41 or R43 with R44 together form a fused benzo group: I'; with I' possibly substituted by one or more groups chosen from i) nitro; ii) nitroso; iii) (O)2 S(O-)-, M+; iv) hydroxy; v) mercapto; vi) (di)(alkyl)amino; vii) R°-C(X)-X'-; viii) R°-X'-C(X)-; ix) R°-X'-C(X)-X”-; with M+, R°, X, X', X” as defined previously; particularly R37 to R^ represent a hydrogen atom, and R4i to R^, identical or different, represent a hydroxyl group or (O)2S(O-)-, M+; and when R4i together with R44 form a benzo group, it is preferentially substituted by an (O)2S(O-)- group; provided that at least one of the rings G, H, I or I' includes at least one sulfonate radical (O)2S(O-)- or one carboxylate radical -C(O)O-; preferably sulfonate;
[0173] Examples of colorants of formula (XIII) include: Acid Blue 1; Acid Blue 3; Acid Blue 7; Acid Blue 9; Acid Violet 49; Acid green 3; Acid green 5; Acid Green 50;
[0174] f) xanthene-derived dyes of formula (XIV): formula (XIV) in which: - R45, R46, R47 and R48, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a halogen atom; - R49, R5o, R5i and R52, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom, or a group chosen from: - alkyl; - alkoxy, alkylthio; - hydroxy, mercapto; - nitro, nitroso; - (O)2S(O-)-, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counter-ion; - (O)CO—, M+ with M+ as defined previously; Specifically, R53, R54, R55 and R48 represent a hydrogen or halogen atom - G represents an oxygen atom, sulfur atom, or an NRe group with Re as defined previously; particularly G represents an oxygen atom; - L represents an O-, M+ alkoxide; an S-, M+ thioalkoxide or an NRf group, with Rf representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group, and M+ as defined previously; M+ is particularly sodium or potassium; - The ' represents an oxygen atom, a sulfur atom, or an ammonium group: N+RfRg, with Rf and Rg, identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group, possibly substituted aryl; L' particularly represents an oxygen atom or a phenylamino group possibly substituted by one or more alkyl groups or (O)mS(O-)-, M+ with m and M+ as defined previously; - Q and Q', whether identical or different, represent an oxygen or sulfur atom; particularly Q and Q' represent an oxygen atom; - M+ is as defined previously;
[0175] As an example of colorants of formula (XIV) we can cite: Acid Yellow 73; Acid Red 51; Acid Red 52, Acid Red 87; Acid Red 92; Acid Red 95; Acid Violet 9;
[0176] g) dyes derived from indole of formula (XV): - R53, R54, R55, R56, R57, Rss, R59 and R60, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from: - alkyl; - alkoxy, alkylthio; - hydroxy, mercapto; - nitro, nitroso; - R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X'-C(X)-, R°-X'-C(X)-X”- with R° representing a hydrogen atom, an alkyl or aryl group; X, X' and X”, identical or different, representing an oxygen, sulfur or NR atom with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group; - (O)2S(O-)-, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counter-ion; - (O)CO—, M+ with M+ as defined previously; - G represents an oxygen atom, sulfur atom, or an NRe group with Re as defined previously; particularly G represents an oxygen atom; - Ri and Rh, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group; provided that formula (XV) comprises at least one sulfonate radical (O)2 S(O-)-, M+ or one carboxylate radical -C(O)O-, M+; preferably sodium sulfonate
[0177] As an example of colorants of formula (XV) we can cite: Acid Blue 74.
[0178] h) quinoline-derived dyes of formula (XVI) - R61 represents a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom, or an alkyl group; - R62, R63, and R64, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (O)2S(O-)- group, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counter-ion; or R6[ with R62, or R6[ with R64, together form a benzo group possibly substituted by one or more (O)2S(O-)- groups, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counter-ion; it being understood that formula (XVI) includes at least one sulfonate radical (O)2 S(O-)-, M+ preferably sodium sulfonate.
[0179] Examples of colorants of formula (XVI) include: Acid Yellow 2, Acid Yellow 3 and Acid Yellow 5.
[0180] Among the natural direct dyes that can be used according to the invention are lawsone, juglone, alizarin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, purpurogallin, protocatechaldehyde, indigo, isatin, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidine, and orceins. Extracts or decoctions containing these natural dyes, and in particular henna-based poultices or extracts, can also be used.
[0181] Preferably, the direct dyes are chosen from anionic direct dyes.
[0182] The colouring agent(s) may be present in a total quantity from 0.001 to 20%, preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, better from 0.005 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A and / or composition B.
[0183] The pigments may be present in a total quantity ranging from 0.05 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, better from 0.5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A and / or composition B.
[0184] The direct colorant(s) may be present in a total quantity ranging from 0.001 to 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.005 to 5% by weight of the total weight of composition A and / or composition B. Amino acid and / or its derivatives
[0185] Composition A and / or composition B comprises (include) at least one compound selected from an amino acid, a polymer derived from an amino acid and mixtures thereof.
[0186] For the purposes of this invention, "amino acid" means organic compounds having two functional groups: both a carboxylic group -COOH or carboxylate or sulfonic group -SO3H or sulfonate and an amine group -NH2, the amine group optionally being methylated, i.e. in the form -NR2 or N+ R3, where at least one R=CH3.
[0187] Preferably, the amino acid(s) are chosen from those comprising a carboxylic group -COOH or carboxylate.
[0188] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the amino acid(s) according to the present invention are α-amino acids, that is to say, they comprise an amine function and an R group located in the alpha position relative to the acid function.
[0189] They can, for example, be represented by the following formula (XVII): (XVII) R-CH-COOH MHk in which: - p denotes an integer equal to 1 or 2; - R represents a hydrogen atom, an aliphatic group with or without a heterocyclic portion, or an aromatic group.
[0190] When p=l, R can also form a heterocycle with the nitrogen atom of -N(H)p. This heterocycle is preferably a saturated 5-membered ring, optionally substituted by one or more Cr4 alkyl groups, or hydroxyl groups.
[0191] Preferably, the aliphatic group is a linear or branched Ci-C4 alkyl group; a linear or branched Ci-C4 hydroxyalkyl group; a linear or branched CrC4 aminoalkyl group; a linear or branched Ci-C4 (alkyl-C4)thioalkyl group; a linear or branched C2-C4 carboxyalkyl group; a linear or branched ureidoalkyl group; a linear or branched guanidinoalkyl group; a linear or branched imidazoloalkyl group; or a linear or branched indoylalkyl group, the alkyl portions of the latter four groups comprising one to four carbon atoms.
[0192] Preferably, the aromatic group is a C6 aryl or C7 aralkyl group -Cio, the aromatic ring optionally being substituted by one or more CrC4 alkyl groups, or hydroxy groups.
[0193] As examples of amino acids that can be used in the present invention, we can mention in particular aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, asparagine, cysteine, glutamine, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, leucine, lanthionine, lysine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, serine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine and hydroxyproline.
[0194] Preferably, the amino acid(s) are chosen from arginine, histidine, glycine, proline, cysteine, lanthionine and mixtures thereof, more preferably arginine, glycine, proline and mixtures thereof.
[0195] The polymer or polymers derived from an amino acid can be chosen from hydrolyzed or non-hydrolyzed proteins.
[0196] According to a preferred embodiment, the amino acid-derived polymer(s) are hydrolyzed proteins.
[0197] The term "hydrolyzed protein", as used herein, means the product of the hydrolysis of homogeneous or heterogeneous proteins, or their respective components, derivatives or combinations thereof, from sources including, but not limited to, plants and their respective components, seeds, animal bones, connective tissue, animal keratin, bovine and porcine collagen, human hair, wool, silk, elastin, reticulin, milk, egg, wheat, maize, soybeans, oats, casein, albumin, or any collagenous or keratinous substance, or their derivatives.
[0198] Hydrolyzed proteins of animal origin are, for example, hydrolysates of elastin, collagen, keratin, silk protein, milk protein, some compounds may be in salt form.
[0199] Examples include compounds marketed under the names Dehylan® (Cognis), Promois® (Interorgana), Collapuron® (Cognis), Nutrilan® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol® (Deutsche Gélatine Fabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein® (Index), ProSina® (Croda) and Kerasol® (Croda).
[0200] Hydrolyzed proteins of plant origin are, for example, hydrolysates of soy, almond, pea, moringa, potato or wheat proteins.
[0201] Examples include compounds marketed under the names Gluadin® (Cognis), DiaMin® (Diamalt), Lexein® (Index), Hydrosoy® (Croda), Hydrolupin® (Croda), Hydrosesame® (Croda), Hydrotritium® (Croda), Crotein® (Croda) and Puricare®LS 9658 (Laboratoires Serobiologiques).
[0202] Preferably, the hydrolyzed protein or proteins according to the invention are hydrolyzed proteins of plant origin such as soy, almond, pea, moringa, potato or wheat protein hydrolysates.
[0203] According to a particular embodiment, the amino acid-derived polymer(s) are silicone-based amino acid-derived polymers of formula (XVIII) next: (XVIII) qh ******1^ WrtVww^vwyww-H Hg H Hs W^1 J OH or the following formula (XIX): naked OH OH OH ï ] m—h—d~à—g—o^~c~0~o—oM~âH4“C“trô—c—è—c—&—m H h» HH, * | l Hj HH ' ÔH qw (XIX) in which: - n is an integer between 1 and 100, preferably between 1 and 50, more preferably between 1 and 20, better between 1 and 10, even better between 1 and 5, even better between 1 and 3, - Ri is a polypeptide chain derived from an amino acid such as cysteine.
[0204] Examples include compounds with the INCI name Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein PG-Propyl Silanetriol or Cystine Bis-PG-Propyl silanetriol marketed under the name Crodasone® W, Crodasone® W PF, Keravis® PE or Crodasone® Cystine by the company CRODA.
[0205] Preferably, composition A and / or composition B comprises (include) at least one amino acid selected from arginine, histidine, glycine, proline, cysteine, lanthionine and mixtures thereof, more preferably arginine, glycine, proline and mixtures thereof.
[0206] The compound(s) selected from an amino acid, a polymer derived from an amino acid and their mixtures may be present in a total quantity ranging from 0.1% to 25%, preferably from 0.5% to 15%, more preferably from 1% to 15%, even more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A and / or composition B.
[0207] According to a preferred embodiment, the amino acid(s) is / are present in a total quantity ranging from 0.1% to 25%, preferably from 0.5% to 15%, more preferably from 1% to 15%, even more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A and / or composition B. Non-ionic, non-associative cellulose polymer
[0208] Composition A and / or composition B according to the invention may comprise at least one non-ionic cellulosic polymer, preferably non- associative.
[0209] The non-ionic non-associative cellulosic polymer is different from the film-forming polymers mentioned previously.
[0210] By "cellulosic polymer", according to the invention, any polysaccharide polymer having in its structure chains of glucose residues joined by beta-1,4 bonds.
[0211] By "non-associative cellulosic polymer", it is understood according to the invention that the cellulosic polymers do not have a C8-C30 fatty chain.
[0212] Non-associative non-ionic cellulosic polymers may be selected from alkyl(Ci-C4)celluloses, such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (e.g., DOW CHEMICAL's Ethocel Standard 100 Premium); hydroxyalkyl(Ci-C4)celluloses, such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses and hydroxypropylcelluloses; mixed hydroxyalkyl(Ci-C4)-alkyl(Ci-C4)celluloses, such as hydroxypropyl methylcelluloses (e.g., DOW CHEMICAL's Methocel E4M), hydroxyethyl methylcelluloses, hydroxyethyl ethylcelluloses (e.g., AKZO NOBEL's Bermocoll E 481 FQ), and hydroxybutyl methylcelluloses, and mixtures thereof.
[0213] Preferably, the non-ionic non-associative cellulosic polymer(s) are chosen from hydroxyalkyl(Ci-C4)celluloses.
[0214] More preferably, the non-ionic non-associative cellulosic polymer(s) are hydroxyethylcellulose and / or hydroxypropylcellulose.
[0215] More preferably, composition A and / or composition B comprises (include) hydroxyethylcellulose and / or hydroxypropylcellulose.
[0216] In particular, hydroxyethylcellulose sold by Ashland Inc. under the trade name NATROSOL 250 HHR PC.
[0217] The non-associative non-ionic cellulosic polymer(s) may be present in a total amount preferably from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, better from 0.1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A and / or composition B. Amino silicone:
[0218] Composition A and / or composition B may include at least one amino silicone.
[0219] The term “amino silicone” means any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary, tertiary amine or one quaternary ammonium group.
[0220] The weight-average molecular masses of these amino silicones can be measured by Gel Permeation Chromatography (GPC) at room temperature (25°C) in polystyrene equivalents. The columns used are Styragel p-columns. The eluent is THF, and the flow rate is 1 ml / min. 200 µL of a 0.5% solution is injected. in weight of silicone in the THF. Detection is done by refractometry and UVmetry.
[0221] Preferably, the amine-based silicone(s) that may be used in the context of the invention are chosen from: a) Polysiloxanes corresponding to formula (A): HO-- CH, 1 Si----O - CH, x' OH 1 — Si---O - (CH.T, 1 - - NH ^H2>2 -H y1
[0222] in which x' and y' are integers such that the average molecular weight by weight (Mw) is between approximately 5,000 and 500,000; b) Amino silicones conforming to formula (B): R'aG3 a-Si(OSiG2)n-(OSiGbR'2 b)mO-SiG3 a-R'a (B) in which:
[0223] - G, identical or different, designates a hydrogen atom, a phenyl group, OH, alkyl in C1-C8, for example methyl, or alkoxy in C1-C8, for example methoxy, - a, same or different, denotes 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0, - b denotes 0 or 1, in particular 1,
[0224] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; - R', identical or different, denotes a monovalent radical of formula -CqH2qL in which q is a number from 2 to 8, and L is an amine group possibly quaternized chosen from the groups: -N(R")2; -N+(R")3 A-; -NR"-QN(R")2 and -NR"-Q-N+(R")3 A-, in which R", identical or different, denotes hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a monovalent saturated hydrocarbon radical, for example a Ci-C20 alkyl radical; Q denotes a group of formula CrH2r, linear or branched, r being an integer from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A- represents a cosmetically acceptable anion, in particular a halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide, or iodide.
[0225] Preferably, the amine silicone(s) are chosen from among the amine silicones of formula (B).
[0226] Preferably, the amino silicones of formula (B) are chosen from among the amino silicones corresponding to the following formulas (C), (D), (E), (F), (G) and / or the amino silicones comprising at least one formula unit (L), in particular the following amino silicones of formula (N).
[0227] According to a first embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (B) are chosen from the silicones called "trimethylsilylamodi-methicone" corresponding to formula (C): n M Oi NH i {CHj. 1 nh2
[0228] in which m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10. According to a second embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (B) are chosen from the silicones of the following formula (D): If- ch3 GHs O — Yes — (D) (0¾ N H. m ___ ___ni
[0229]
[0230]
[0231] in which: - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200; n can designate a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 249 and more particularly from 125 to 175 and m can designate a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10, more particularly from 1 to 5; - Ri, R2, R3, identical or different, represent a hydroxy or alkoxy radical in Ci-C4, at least one of the radicals Ri to R3 designating an alkoxy radical. Preferably, the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical. The hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio preferably ranges from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more particularly is equal to 0.3:1. The average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of these silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1,000,000, more specifically from 3500 to 200,000.
[0232] According to a third embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (B) are chosen from the following silicones of formula (E): (E) in which: - p and q are numbers such that the sum (p+q) varies from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 350, and more particularly from 150 to 250; p can designate a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 349 and more particularly from 159 to 239 and q can designate a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5; - Ri, R2, different, represent a hydroxy or alkoxy radical in C1-C4, at least one of the radicals Ri or R2 designating an alkoxy radical.
[0233] Preferably the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.
[0234] The hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio generally ranges from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1 and preferably from 1:0.9 to 1:1 and more particularly is equal to 1:0.95.
[0235] The average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of silicone is preferably from 2000 to 200000 and even more particularly from 5000 to 100000 and more particularly from 10000 to 50000.
[0236] Commercial products comprising structural silicones (D) or (E) may include in their composition one or more other amino silicones whose structure is different from formulas (D) or (E).
[0237] A product containing structure (D) amino silicones is offered by the company WACKER under the name BELSIL® ADM 652.
[0238] A product containing structural amino silicones (E) is offered by WACKER under the name Fluid WR 1300® or under the name Belsil ADM Log 1.
[0239] When these amino silicones are used, a particularly interesting embodiment is their use as an oil-in-water emulsion. The oil-in-water emulsion may include one or more surfactants. The surfactants may be of any type, but preferably cationic and / or nonionic. The average number size of silicone particles in the emulsion generally ranges from 3 nm to 500 nanometers. Preferably, particularly for amino silicones of formula (E), microemulsions are used with an average particle size ranging from 5 nm to 60 nanometers (inclusive), and more specifically from 10 nm to 50 nanometers (inclusive). Thus, according to the invention, amino silicone microemulsions of formula (E) offered under the names FINISH CT 96 E® or SLM 28020® by WACKER can be used.
[0240] According to a fourth embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (B) are chosen from the silicones of the following formula (F): GHj O — If — i HAS
[0241] in which:
[0242] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in by particular from 50 to 150, n can designate a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m can designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10;
[0243] - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably linear.
[0244] The average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1000000 and even more particularly from 3500 to 200000.
[0245] Another silicone meeting formula (B) is for example XIAMETER MEM 8299 EMULSION from DOW CORNING (INCI name amodimethicone and trideceth-6 and cetrimonium chloride).
[0246] According to a fifth embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (B) are chosen from the silicones of the following formula (G):
[0247] in which: - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10;
[0248] - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably branched.
[0249] The average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 500 to 1,000,000 and even more particularly from 1,000 to 200,000.
[0250] A silicone meeting this formula is for example the DC2-8566 Amino Fluid from DOW CORNING.
[0251] c) Amino silicones conforming to formula (H): FL— GH^— CH OH—CHN* (RL Q " (H)
[0252] in which:
[0253] - R5 represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 atoms of carbon, and in particular an alkyl radical in CrCi8, or alkenyl in C2-Ci8, for example methyl;
[0254] - R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular an alkylene radical in C1-C18 or a divalent alkyleneoxy radical in CrCi8, for example in CrC8 linked to Si by a SiC bond; - Q is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride or a salt of organic acid, in particular acetate;
[0255] - r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 20, in particular from 2 to 8; - s represents an average statistical value ranging from 20 to 200, in particular from 20 to 50.
[0256] Such amino silicones are described in particular in US patent 4,185,087.
[0257] d) quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (I): R-OH 12 । in which: - R7, identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular an alkyl radical in CrCi8, an alkenyl radical in C2-C[8 or a ring comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl; - R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular an alkylene radical in CrCi8 or a divalent alkyleneoxy radical in CrCi8, for example in CrC8 linked to Si by a SiC bond; - R8, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular an alkyl radical in CrCi8, an alkenyl radical in C2-Ci8, an -R6-NHCOR7 radical; - X is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride or a salt of organic acid, in particular acetate; - r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 200, in particular from 5 to 100.
[0258] These silicones are described for example in application EP-A-0530974.
[0259] e) Amino silicones of formula (J): — NH in which: - Ri, R2, R3 and R4, whether identical or different, denote a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a phenyl group, - R5 designates a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group,
[0260] - n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5,
[0261] - m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and - x is chosen such that the amine index varies from 0.01 to 1 meq / g.
[0262] f) multiblock polyoxyalkylened amine silicones, of type (AB)n, A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylened block comprising at least one amine group.
[0263] Said silicones are preferably made up of repeating units of the following general formulas: [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2 - R -N(R")- R'-O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b -R'-N(H)-R-] or else [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2 - R -N(R")- R' - O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b -] in which: - a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably from 5 to 200, more particularly from 10 to 100; - b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably from 4 to 100, more particularly between 5 and 30; - x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10000, more specifically from 10 to 5000; - R" is a hydrogen atom or a methyl;
[0264] - R, identical or different, represent a divalent hydrocarbon radical in C2-Ci2, linear or branched, possibly comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a CH2CH2CH2OCH2 CH(OH)CH2- radical; preferably R denotes a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2 radical - R', identical or different, represent a divalent hydrocarbon radical in C2-Ci2, linear or branched, possibly comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R' designates an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a CH2CH2CH2OCH2 CH(OH)CH2- radical; preferably R' designates -CH(CH3)-CH2-.
[0265] The siloxane blocks preferably represent 50 and 95% by moles of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly 70 to 85% by moles.
[0266] The amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq / g of copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2.
[0267] The average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of silicone is preferably between 5000 and 1000000, more particularly between 10000 and 200000.
[0268] We can cite in particular the silicones marketed under the names Silsoft A-843 or Silsoft A+ by Momentive.
[0269] g) Amino silicones of formula (K): in which: - A represents a hydroxyl group, -O-Si(CH3)3, -O-Si(CH3)2OH, or -O-Si(CH3)2 och3, - D represents a hydrogen atom, a -Si(CH3)3, -Si(CH3)2OH, or -Si(CH3)2OCH3 group - b, n and c, independent of each other, are integers between 0 and 100 with n>0 and b+c>0, and at least one of the following conditions is met: A represents a hydroxyl group (OH) or D represents a hydrogen atom.
[0270] In formula (K), the siloxane units bearing the indices b, c and n are randomly distributed, i.e. they are not necessarily block copolymers.
[0271] h) Amino silicones comprising at least one formula unit (L): According to a preferred embodiment, the amino silicone according to the invention comprises at least one unit of the following formula (L):
[0272] According to a more preferred embodiment, the amino silicone according to the invention comprises at least one formula unit (L) and at least one formula unit (M) as follows: Preferably, the amino silicone according to the invention is a substituted amino silicone. by at least one 4-Morpholinomethyl group.
[0273] One can cite for example the amodimethicone / morpholinomethyl silses-quioxane copolymer marketed under the trade name Belsil ADM 8301E by the company Wacker.
[0274] The amine-substituted silicone containing at least one 4-Morpholinomethyl group that can be used according to the invention has the following formula (N): in which: - Ri represents a group -CH3, OH, -OCH3, -O-CH2CH3, -O-CH2CH2CH3, or -O-CH(CH3)2, - R2 represents a -CH3, OH, or -OCH3 group - B represents a hydroxyl group, -O-Si(CH3)3, -O-Si(CH3)2OH, or -O-Si(CH3)2 och 3j - D represents a hydrogen atom, a -Si(CH3)3, -Si(CH3)2OH, or -Si(CH3)2OCH3 group - a, b and c, independent of each other, are integers between 0 and 1000 with a+b+b >0, - m and n, independent of each other, are integers between 1 and 1000, with at least one of the following conditions being met: B represents a hydroxyl group (OH) or D represents a hydrogen atom.
[0275] Preferably, a>0 or b>0, more preferably a>0 and b>0.
[0276] Amino silicone of formula (N) may have trimethylsilyl (D or B = -Si(CH3)3) terminations or dimethylsilylhydroxy terminations or trimethylsilyl terminations on one side and dimethylsilylhydroxy terminations on the other side.
[0277] According to a preferred embodiment, the amino silicone according to the invention is an amino silicone substituted by at least one 4-Morpholinomethyl group of formula (N) selected from: B= -O-Si(CH3)2OH and D= -Si(CH3)3 B=-O-Si(CH3)2OH and D= -Si(CH3)2OH B=-O-Si(CH3)2OH and D= -Si(CH3)2OCH3 B = -Si(CH3)3 and D = -Si(CH3)2OH B=-Si(CH3)2OCH3and D= -Si(CH3)2OH
[0278] i) and their mixtures.
[0279] Preferably, the amino silicones of formula (B) are chosen from among the amino silicones corresponding to formula (D) or the amino silicones comprising at least one unit of formula (L), in particular the amino silicones of formula (N).
[0280] Preferably, composition A and / or composition B comprises (include) at least one amino silicone selected from amino silicones of formula (D) or amino silicones comprising at least one formula unit (L), in particular amino silicones of formula (N).
[0281] The amine silicone(s) may be present in a total quantity ranging from 0.1% to 35%, preferably from 1 to 25%, more preferably from 3 to 20%, more preferably still from 5 to 17% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A and / or composition B. Solvent:
[0282] Composition A and / or composition B according to the invention may comprise water. Preferably, the water is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 95% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 90% by weight, better from 10% to 85% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A and / or composition B.
[0283] When aqueous, composition A and / or composition B may also include acidifying agents to adjust the pH.
[0284] Preferably, the acidifying agents are chosen from citric acid, lactic acid, acetic acid and / or mineral acids such as hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid, phosphoric acid and mixtures thereof. Additives:
[0285] Composition A and / or composition B according to the invention may also contain any adjuvant or additive usually used.
[0286] Among the additives that may be contained in the composition, we can mention reducing agents, thickening agents other than the polymers previously described, softeners, anti-foaming agents, moisturizing agents, UV filters, peptizers, dispersants, perfumes, anionic, cationic, non-ionic or amphoteric surfactants, proteins, vitamins, preservatives, waxes and mixtures thereof.
[0287] Composition A and / or composition B may (can) in particular in the form of a suspension, dispersion, gel, emulsion, in particular oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion, or multiple (W / O / W or polyol / O / W or O / W / O), in the form of a cream, foam, stick, vesicle dispersion, in particular of ionic or non-ionic lipids, bi-phase or multi-phase lotion, anhydrous liquid or anhydrous gel.
[0288] According to a particular embodiment, composition A according to the invention is an anhydrous liquid or an anhydrous gel.
[0289] According to a particular embodiment, composition B according to the invention is a dispersion.
[0290] A person skilled in the art will be able to choose the appropriate galenic form, as well as its method of preparation, on the basis of their general knowledge, taking into account on the one hand the nature of the constituents used, in particular their solubility in the support, and on the other hand the application envisaged for composition A and / or composition B.
[0291] According to a preferred embodiment, composition A according to the invention comprises at least one alkoxysilane of formula (I) as described above, at least one al-coxysilane of formula (II) as described above, and at least one pigment.
[0292] According to a more preferred embodiment, composition A according to the invention comprises 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), methyltrimethoxysilane (MTMS) or methyltriethoxysilane (MTES) and at least one pigment.
[0293] According to a preferred embodiment, composition B according to the invention comprises at least one film-forming polymer selected from vinylpyrrolidone (PVP) homopolymers, vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, acrylamide copolymers, acrylic acid ester homopolymers or copolymers, ethylene homopolymers or copolymers and mixtures thereof, and at least one amino acid selected from arginine, histidine, glycine, proline, cysteine, lanthionine and mixtures thereof.
[0294] According to a more preferred embodiment, composition B according to the invention comprises at least one film-forming polymer selected from vinylpyrrolidone (PVP) homopolymers, acrylamide copolymers, acrylic acid ester homopolymers or copolymers, ethylene homopolymers or copolymers and mixtures thereof, and at least one amino acid selected from arginine, glycine, proline and mixtures thereof. Keratin fiber processing method
[0295] The present invention relates to a method for coloring keratin fibers such as hair, comprising the following steps: a) the application to keratin fibers of at least one composition A comprising: - at least one alkoxysilane selected from the compounds of formula (I) or formula (!') as described above, their oligomers and / or mixtures thereof, and - at least one alkoxysilane of formula (II) as described above, its oligomers and / or mixtures thereof, and b) the application to keratin fibers of at least one composition B comprising: - at least one film-forming polymer as described above, composition A and / or composition B comprising at least one coloring agent selected from pigments, direct colorants, and mixtures thereof, and composition A and / or composition B comprising at least one compound selected from an amino acid, a polymer derived from an amino acid and mixtures thereof.
[0296] Preferably, composition A and composition B according to the invention are compositions for coloring keratin fibers, such as hair.
[0297] Composition A and composition B may be applied simultaneously or sequentially. Preferably, composition A and composition B are applied sequentially.
[0298] Thus, preferably, composition A is first applied to the keratin fibers followed by composition B in a second step.
[0299] According to a preferred embodiment, the process for coloring keratin fibers such as hair comprises: (i) the application to said keratin fibers of composition A according to the invention comprising: - at least one alkoxysilane selected from the compounds of formula (I) or formula (I') as described above, their oligomers and / or mixtures thereof, - at least one alkoxysilane of formula (II) as described above, its oligomers and / or mixtures thereof, and - at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and their mixtures, ii) optionally an exposure time of 10 seconds to 20 minutes, in particular from 20 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably from 30 seconds to 5 minutes of composition A on said fibers, iii) optionally a washing, rinsing, spinning or drying step for said fibres, (iv) the application to said keratin fibers of composition B according to the invention comprising: - at least one film-forming polymer as described above, and - at least one compound selected from an amino acid, a polymer derived from an amino acid, and mixtures thereof as described above, (v) optionally an exposure time of 10 seconds to 20 minutes, in particular 20 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably from 30 seconds to 5 minutes of composition B according to the invention on said fibers, vi) optionally a washing, rinsing, spinning and vii) optionally a drying and / or heating step of the keratin fibers for example at a temperature greater than or equal to 30°C.
[0300] According to another preferred embodiment, the process for coloring keratin fibers such as hair comprises: (i) the application to said keratin fibers of composition A according to the invention comprising: - at least one alkoxysilane chosen from the compounds of formula (I) or formula (!') as described above, their oligomers and / or mixtures thereof, - at least one alkoxysilane of formula (II) as described above, its oligomers and / or mixtures thereof, - at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and their mixtures, and - at least one compound selected from an amino acid, a polymer derived from an amino acid, and mixtures thereof as described above, ii) optionally an exposure time of 10 seconds to 20 minutes, in particular from 20 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably from 30 seconds to 5 minutes of composition A on said fibers, iii) optionally a washing, rinsing, spinning or drying step for said fibres, (iv) the application of composition B according to the invention comprising: - at least one film-forming polymer as described above, (v) optionally an exposure time of 10 seconds to 20 minutes, in particular from 20 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably from 30 seconds to 5 minutes of composition B according to the invention on said fibers, vi) optionally a washing, rinsing, spinning and vii) optionally a drying and / or heating step of the keratin fibers for example at a temperature greater than or equal to 30°C.
[0301] According to another preferred embodiment, the process for coloring keratin fibers such as hair comprises: (i) the application to said keratin fibers of composition A according to the invention comprising: - at least one alkoxysilane selected from the compounds of formula (I) or formula (I') as described above, their oligomers and / or mixtures thereof, - at least one alkoxysilane of formula (II) as described above, its oligomers and / or mixtures thereof, and - at least one compound selected from an amino acid, a polymer derived from an amino acid, and mixtures thereof as described above, ii) optionally an exposure time of 10 seconds to 20 minutes, in particular from 20 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably from 30 seconds to 5 minutes of composition A on said fibers, iii) optionally a washing, rinsing, spinning or drying step for said fibres, (iv) the application of composition B according to the invention comprising: - at least one film-forming polymer as described above, and - at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and their mixtures, (v) optionally an exposure time of 10 seconds to 20 minutes, in particular from 20 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably from 30 seconds to 5 minutes of composition B according to the invention on said fibers, vi) optionally a washing, rinsing, spinning and vii) optionally a drying and / or heating step of the keratin fibers for example at a temperature greater than or equal to 30°C.
[0302] According to another preferred embodiment, the process for coloring keratin fibers such as hair comprises: (i) the application to said keratin fibers of composition A according to the invention comprising: - at least one alkoxysilane selected from the compounds of formula (I) or formula (!') as described above, their oligomers and / or mixtures thereof, and - at least one alkoxysilane of formula (II) as described above, its oligomers and / or mixtures thereof, ii) optionally an exposure time of 10 seconds to 20 minutes, in particular from 20 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably from 30 seconds to 5 minutes of composition A on said fibers, iii) optionally a washing, rinsing, spinning or drying step for said fibres, (iv) the application of composition B according to the invention comprising: - at least one film-forming polymer as described above, - at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and their mixtures, and - at least one compound selected from an amino acid, a polymer derived from an amino acid, and mixtures thereof as described above, (v) optionally an exposure time of 10 seconds to 20 minutes, in particular from 20 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably from 30 seconds to 5 minutes of composition B according to the invention concerning said fibers, vi) optionally a washing, rinsing, spinning and vii) optionally a drying and / or heating step of the keratin fibers for example at a temperature greater than or equal to 30°C.
[0303] According to another preferred embodiment, the process for coloring keratin fibers such as hair comprises: (i) the application to said keratin fibers of composition A according to the invention comprising: - at least one alkoxysilane chosen from the compounds of formula (I) or formula (!') as described above, their oligomers and / or mixtures thereof, - at least one alkoxysilane of formula (II) as described above, its oligomers and / or mixtures thereof, - at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and their mixtures, and - at least one compound selected from an amino acid, a polymer derived from an amino acid, and mixtures thereof as described above, ii) optionally an exposure time of 10 seconds to 20 minutes, in particular from 20 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably from 30 seconds to 5 minutes of composition A on said fibers, iii) optionally a washing, rinsing, spinning or drying step for said fibres, (iv) the application of composition B according to the invention comprising: - at least one film-forming polymer as described above, and
[0304] - at least one compound selected from an amino acid, a polymer derived from an acid amino acids and their mixtures as described previously, (v) optionally an exposure time of 10 seconds to 20 minutes, in particular from 20 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably from 30 seconds to 5 minutes of composition B according to the invention on said fibers, vi) optionally a washing, rinsing, spinning and vii) optionally a drying and / or heating step of the keratin fibers for example at a temperature greater than or equal to 30°C.
[0305] According to another preferred embodiment, the process for coloring keratin fibers such as hair comprises: (i) the application to said keratin fibers of composition A according to the invention comprising: - at least one alkoxysilane selected from the compounds of formula (I) or formula (I') as described above, their oligomers and / or mixtures thereof, - at least one alkoxysilane of formula (II) as described above, its oligomers and / or mixtures thereof, and - at least one compound selected from an amino acid, a polymer derived from an amino acid, and mixtures thereof as described above, ii) optionally an exposure time of 10 seconds to 20 minutes, in particular from 20 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably from 30 seconds to 5 minutes of composition A on said fibers, iii) optionally a washing, rinsing, spinning or drying step for said fibres, (iv) the application of composition B according to the invention comprising: - at least one film-forming polymer as described above,
[0306] - at least one compound selected from an amino acid, a polymer derived from an acid amino acids and their mixtures as described previously, and - at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and their mixtures, (v) optionally an exposure time of 10 seconds to 20 minutes, in particular from 20 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably from 30 seconds to 5 minutes of composition B according to the invention on said fibers, vi) optionally a washing, rinsing, spinning and vii) optionally a drying and / or heating step of the keratin fibers for example at a temperature greater than or equal to 30°C.
[0307] The term "rinsing step" refers to the application of water to the keratin fibers.
[0308] Compositions A and B according to the invention can be implemented on fibers dry or wet keratin, as well as on all types of fibers, light or dark, natural or colored, permed, bleached or straightened.
[0309] According to a particular embodiment of the process of the invention, the fibers are washed before application of compositions A and B according to the invention.
[0310] The application of compositions A and B according to the invention on keratin fibers can be carried out by any conventional means, in particular by means of a comb, a brush, a brush or the fingers.
[0311] The coloring process, i.e. the application of compositions A and B according to the invention on the keratin fibers, is generally carried out at room temperature (between 15 and 25°C).
[0312] After application of composition A or composition B to the keratin fibers, it is preferable to have a setting time of 10 seconds to 20 minutes, in particular 20 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably 30 seconds to 5 minutes of composition A or composition B on said fibers.
[0313] According to a particular embodiment, the process for coloring keratin fibers such as hair comprises: (i) the preparation of composition A according to the invention by mixing a first composition A' and a second composition A” wherein the first composition A' comprises: - at least one alkoxysilane selected from the compounds of formula (I) or formula (!') as described above, their oligomers and / or mixtures thereof, and - at least one alkoxysilane of formula (II) as described above, its oligomers and / or mixtures thereof and The second composition A' ' comprises: - at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and their mixtures, ii) the application of composition A according to the invention to said keratin fibers, ii) optionally a leave-on time of 10 seconds to 20 minutes, in particular from 20 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably from 30 seconds to 5 minutes, of composition A on said fibers, iii) optionally a washing, rinsing, spinning or drying step for said fibres, (iv) the application of composition B according to the invention comprising: - at least one film-forming polymer as described above, and - at least one compound selected from an amino acid, a polymer derived from an amino acid, and mixtures thereof as described above, (v) optionally an exposure time of 10 seconds to 20 minutes, in particular from 20 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably from 30 seconds to 5 minutes of composition B according to the invention on said fibers, vi) optionally a washing, rinsing, spinning and vii) optionally a drying and / or heating step of the keratin fibers for example at a temperature greater than or equal to 30°C.
[0314] In order to allow better preservation of composition A', it preferably comprises a low water content or is anhydrous.
[0315] Preferably, composition A' comprises a water content of between 0.001 and 10% by weight, better between 0.5 and 10% by weight, more preferably between 1 and 8% by weight relative to the weight of composition A'.
[0316] Composition A' ' may also contain water.
[0317] According to another particular embodiment, the process for coloring keratin fibers such as hair comprises: (i) the preparation of composition A according to the invention by mixing a first composition A' and a second composition A” wherein the first composition A' comprises: - at least one alkoxysilane chosen from the compounds of formula (I) or of formula (I') as described above, their oligomers and / or mixtures thereof, and - at least one alkoxysilane of formula (II) as described above, its oligomers and / or mixtures thereof and The second composition A' ' comprises: - at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and their mixtures, and - at least one compound selected from an amino acid, a polymer derived from an amino acid, and mixtures thereof as described above, ii) the application of composition A according to the invention to said keratin fibers, ii) optionally a leave-on time of 10 seconds to 20 minutes, in particular from 20 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably from 30 seconds to 5 minutes, of composition A on said fibers, iii) optionally a washing, rinsing, spinning or drying step for said fibres, (iv) the application of composition B according to the invention comprising: - at least one film-forming polymer as described above, (v) optionally an exposure time of 10 seconds to 20 minutes, in particular from 20 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably from 30 seconds to 5 minutes of composition B according to the invention on said fibers, vi) optionally a washing, rinsing, spinning and vii) optionally a drying and / or heating step of the keratin fibers for example at a temperature greater than or equal to 30°C.
[0318] According to a particular embodiment, the process for coloring keratin fibers such as hair comprises: (i) the preparation of composition A according to the invention by mixing a first composition A', a second composition A” and a third composition A'” wherein the first composition A' comprises: - at least one alkoxysilane selected from the compounds of formula (I) or formula (I') as described above, their oligomers and / or mixtures thereof, and - at least one alkoxysilane of formula (II) as described above, its oligomers and / or mixtures thereof, and The second composition A' ' comprises: - at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and their mixtures, and The third composition A'” includes: - at least one compound selected from an amino acid, a polymer derived from an amino acid, and mixtures thereof as described above, ii) the application to said keratin fibers of composition A according to the invention, ii) optionally an exposure time of 10 seconds to 20 minutes, in particular from 20 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably from 30 seconds to 5 minutes of composition A on said fibers, iii) optionally a washing, rinsing, spinning or drying step for said fibres, (iv) the application of composition B according to the invention comprising: - at least one film-forming polymer as described above, (v) optionally an exposure time of 10 seconds to 20 minutes, in particular from 20 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably from 30 seconds to 5 minutes of composition B according to the invention on said fibers, vi) optionally a washing, rinsing, spinning and vii) optionally a drying and / or heating step of the keratin fibers for example at a temperature greater than or equal to 30°C.
[0319] After application of compositions A and B according to the invention and before any possible step of applying heat to the keratin fibers, the keratin fibers can be subjected to a drying step, using for example a hair dryer.
[0320] The drying step can be carried out for a period of between 20 seconds and 5 minutes.
[0321] The drying step can be carried out using absorbent paper, a hair dryer, a hair dryer helmet or in the open air.
[0322] Preferably, the drying step is carried out using a hairdryer at a temperature of 30°C or higher, more particularly at a temperature above 30°C and below 110°C
[0323] After applying compositions A and B according to the invention to the keratin fibers, one can wait at least 10 seconds, preferably at least 30 seconds before the drying step of the keratin fibers.
[0324] After application of compositions A and B according to the invention and optionally a drying step of the keratin fibers, the process according to the invention may include a step of applying heat to the keratin fibers using a heating tool.
[0325] Preferably, the process according to the invention does not include a step of applying heat to the keratin fibers using a heating tool in addition to the possible drying step.
[0326] The heat application step of the process of the invention can be carried out using a helmet, a hair dryer, a straightener or curling iron, a clhnazon,...
[0327] Preferably, the heat application step of the process of the invention is carried out using a hair dryer and / or a hair straightener, more preferably with with the help of a hairdryer.
[0328] During the heat application step on the keratin fibers, a mechanical action on the strands can be exerted such as combing, brushing, passing with fingers.
[0329] When the heat application step on the keratin fibers is carried out using a helmet or a hair dryer, the temperature is preferably between 30 and 110°C, preferably between 50 and 90°C.
[0330] When the heat application step on the keratin fibers is carried out using a hair straightener, the temperature is preferably between 110 and 240°C, preferably between 110 and 200°C. Multi-compartment device (kit)
[0331] The present invention also relates to a device for coloring keratin fibers such as hair, comprising several compartments containing: - in a first compartment, a composition A comprising: - at least one alkoxysilane chosen from the compounds of formula (I) or formula (!') as described above, their oligomers and / or mixtures thereof, - at least one alkoxysilane of formula (II) as described above, its oligomers and / or mixtures thereof, - in a second compartment, a composition B according to the invention comprising: - at least one film-forming polymer as described above, composition A and / or composition B comprising at least one coloring agent selected from pigments, direct colorants, and mixtures thereof, and composition A and / or composition B comprising at least one compound selected from an amino acid, a polymer derived from an amino acid and their mixtures as described above.
[0332] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the coloring device according to the invention is a device for coloring keratin fibers such as hair, comprising several compartments containing: - in a first compartment, a composition A comprising: - at least one alkoxysilane selected from the compounds of formula (I) or formula (I') as described above, their oligomers and / or mixtures thereof, and - at least one alkoxysilane of formula (II) as described above, its oligomers and / or mixtures thereof, - in a second compartment, a composition B according to the invention comprising: - at least one film-forming polymer as described above, and - at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and their mixtures, composition A and / or composition B comprising at least one chosen compound including an amino acid, a polymer derived from an amino acid and their mixtures as described above.
[0333] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the coloring device according to the invention is a device for coloring keratin fibers such as hair, comprising several compartments containing: - in a first compartment, a composition A comprising: - at least one alkoxysilane chosen from the compounds of formula (I) or formula (!') as described above, their oligomers and / or mixtures thereof, - at least one alkoxysilane of formula (II) as described above, its oligomers and / or mixtures thereof, and - at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and their mixtures; - in a second compartment, a composition B according to the invention comprising: - at least one hydrophobic film-forming polymer as described above, and composition A and / or composition B comprising at least one compound selected from an amino acid, a polymer derived from an amino acid and mixtures thereof as described above.
[0334] The present invention also relates to a device for coloring keratin fibers such as hair, comprising several compartments containing: - in a first compartment, a composition A' comprising: - at least one alkoxysilane selected from the compounds of formula (I) or formula (I') as described above, their oligomers and / or mixtures thereof, and - at least one alkoxysilane of formula (II) as described above, its oligomers and / or mixtures thereof; - in a second compartment, a composition A” comprising: - at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and their mixtures, - in a third compartment, a composition B according to the invention comprising: - at least one film-forming polymer as described above, and composition A' and / or composition A'' and / or composition B comprising at least one compound selected from an amino acid, a polymer derived from an amino acid and their mixtures as described above.
[0335] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the coloring device according to the invention is a device for coloring keratin fibers such as hair, comprising several compartments containing: - in a first compartment, a composition A' comprising: - at least one alkoxysilane selected from the compounds of formula (I) or formula (I') as described above, their oligomers and / or mixtures thereof, and - at least one alkoxysilane of formula (II) as described above, its oligomers and / or mixtures thereof; - in a second compartment, a composition A'' comprising: - at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and their mixtures, - in a third compartment, a composition B according to the invention comprising: - at least one film-forming polymer as described above, and - at least one compound selected from an amino acid, a polymer derived from an amino acid and their mixtures as described above.
[0336] According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, the coloring device according to the invention is a device for coloring keratin fibers such as hair, comprising several compartments containing: - in a first compartment, a composition A' comprising: - at least one alkoxysilane selected from the compounds of formula (I) or formula (I') as described above, their oligomers and / or mixtures thereof, and - at least one alkoxysilane of formula (II) as described above, its oligomers and / or mixtures thereof; - in a second compartment, a composition A” comprising: - at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and their mixtures, - at least one compound selected from an amino acid, a polymer derived from an amino acid, and mixtures thereof as described above, and - in a third compartment, a composition B according to the invention comprising: - at least one film-forming polymer as described above.
[0337] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the coloring device according to the invention is a device for coloring keratin fibers such as hair, comprising several compartments containing: - in a first compartment, a composition A' comprising: - at least one alkoxysilane selected from the compounds of formula (I) or formula (I') as described above, their oligomers and / or mixtures thereof, and - at least one alkoxysilane of formula (II) as described above, its oligomers and / or mixtures thereof; - in a second compartment, a composition A” comprising: - at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and their mixtures, - in a third compartment, a composition A'” comprising: - at least one compound selected from an amino acid, a polymer derived from an amino acid, and mixtures thereof as described above, and - in a fourth compartment, a composition B according to the invention comprising: - at least one film-forming polymer as described above.
[0338] The present invention will now be described more specifically by means of examples, which are in no way limiting to the scope of the invention. However, the examples allow for the support of specific features, variants, and preferred embodiments of the invention. Examples
[0339] In the examples, the temperature is given in degrees Celsius, and corresponds to the ambient temperature (20-25°C), unless otherwise stated, and the pressure is atmospheric pressure, unless otherwise stated.
[0340] The following compositions are prepared (in g / 100g of raw material as is, MA: Active Ingredient):
[0341] [Tables 1] Compositions Al' (Comparative) A2' (Invention) 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES)(1) 24 24 Methyltriethoxysilane (MTES) 72 72 Ethanol Qsp 100 Qsp 100
[0342] [Tables2] Compositions A1” (Comparative) A2” (Invention) Pigment® 10 10 Hydroxypropyl cellulose 4 4 Ethanol Qsp 100 Qsp 100
[0343] [Tables3] Compositions B1 (Comparative) B2 (Invention) B3 (Invention) Ethylene / sodium acrylate copolymer 3.8 MA 3.8 MA 3.8 MA Glycine - 2 5 Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100
[0344] 1. 2. Sold under the trade name KBE-903 by the company Shin Etsu; SYNTHETIC FLUORPHLOGOPITE (and) TITANIUM DIOXIDE (and) TIN OXIDE sold under the trade name SYNCRYSTAL SILK SILVER by the company ECKART. 3. Sold under the trade name ECOSMOOTH SATIN by the company Dow Corning. Protocol:
[0345] The comparative compositions Al' and Al” on the one hand and the compositions A2' and A2” according to the invention on the other hand are mixed in a 50 / 50 ratio in order to obtain the compositions Al and A2.
[0346] The comparative composition Al and the composition A2 according to the invention are applied with a finger to strands of dry brown hair (HT4), at a rate of 1 g of composition per gram of strand.
[0347] The hair strands are left at room temperature for 2 minutes.
[0348] The comparative composition B1 is then applied to the hair strands treated with the Al composition, at a rate of 1 g of composition per gram of wick.
[0349] Composition B2 according to the invention is then applied to the hair strands treated with composition A2, at a rate of 1 g of composition per gram of strand.
[0350] In parallel, composition B3 according to the invention is applied to the hair strands treated with composition A2, at a rate of 1 g of composition per gram of strand.
[0351] The hair strands are left at room temperature for 5 minutes.
[0352] The hair strands are then dried with a hairdryer for 2 minutes.
[0353] The hair strands are left at room temperature for 24 hours.
[0354] The strands of hair thus colored are then subjected to a shampoo of in order to evaluate the tenacity (the persistence) of the color obtained with the shampoo, according to the shampoo protocol described below. Shampooing protocol:
[0355] The hair strands are washed using a standard shampoo (Garnier Ultra Doux).
[0356] The hair strands are then rinsed, combed and dried with a hairdryer.
[0357] The following shampoo is applied to the strands obtained after the application of the hair dryer. Results :
[0358] The persistence of the color of the strands was evaluated in the CIE L*a*b* system, using a Minolta Spectrophotometer CM3600A colorimeter (illuminant D65, angle 10°, specular component included).
[0359] In this L*a*b* system, L* represents the intensity of the color, a* indicates the green / red color axis and b* the blue / yellow color axis.
[0360] The permanence of the color is evaluated by the color difference AE between the colored strands before shampooing, and then after one shampooing according to the protocol described above. The lower the AE value, the more the color remains after shampooing.
[0361] The value of AE is calculated according to the following equation:
[0362] [Math.l] •' ) H- ■ to,. j ■ ÎX.}
[0363] In this equation, L*a*b* represent the values measured after hair coloring and after shampooing, and L0*a0*b0* represent the values measured after hair coloring but before shampooing.
[0364] [Tables4] Compositions Number of shampoos L* a* b* AE Compositions A1 + B1 (comparative) 0 33.5 1.4 -0.6 - 1 27.1 2.4 1.6 6.8 Compositions A2 + B2 (invention) 0 33.6 1.0 -1.3 - 1 32.3 1.9 0.0 2.1 Compositions A2 + B3 (comparative) 0 32.1 1.4 -0.8 - 1 29.6 2.3 1.5 3.5
[0365] Hair strands colored with compositions A2 + B2 according to the invention and A2 + B3 according to the invention and washed with shampoo have low AE values compared to hair strands colored with compositions Al + B1 only.
[0366] Thus, the colored coating of keratin fibers obtained with the compositions according to the invention, comprising at least one compound selected from an amino acid, a polymer derived from an amino acid, and mixtures thereof as described above, exhibits good color retention after shampooing. Indeed, hair strands colored with the compositions according to the invention and washed with shampoo exhibit good color retention.
Claims
Demands
1. A method for coloring keratin fibers such as hair, comprising the following steps: a) the application to keratin fibers of at least one composition A comprising: - at least one alkoxysilane chosen from the following compounds of formula (I) or formula (!'), their oligomers and / or mixtures: in which: - Ra represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, more preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as a methyl, said alkyl group possibly being substituted by an aryl group; an alkoxy group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as an ethoxy; or an aryl group having from 6 to 12 carbon atoms; Rb and Rc, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom; an alkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, in particular an ethyl group, it being understood that if Ra does not represent an alkoxy group, then Rb and Rc cannot simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom; Rd and Re, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom; an alkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and particularly from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; a cycloalkyl group having from 3 to 20 carbon atoms; an aryl group having 6 to 12 carbon atoms; an aminoalkyl group having 1 to 20 carbon atoms; - A independently represents an alkylene group having from 1 to 10 linear or branched carbon atoms, which may be interrupted by at least one heteroatom chosen from O, S, NH or a carbonyl group (CO), preferably NH - Q represents a carbonyl group (CO); - r denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 1, and - at least one alkoxysilane of the following formula (II), its oligomers and / or mixtures thereof: in which: - Ra represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, more preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as a methyl, said alkyl group possibly being substituted by an aryl group; an alkoxy group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as an ethoxy; or an aryl group having from 6 to 12 carbon atoms; - Rb represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, in particular an ethyl group; - Rc represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, more preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as a methyl, said alkyl group possibly being substituted by an aryl group; an alkoxy group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as an ethoxy; or an aryl group having from 6 to 12 carbon atoms; It is understood that if Ra and Rc do not represent an alkoxy group, then Rb cannot represent a hydrogen atom.
2. - k denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 5, preferably ranging from 0 to 3; - Rf represents a hydrogen atom; an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; or a group with the following formula (lia): , (lia) in which Rn represents a hydroxyl group (OH); an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl group, and b) the application to the keratin fibers of at least one composition B comprising: - at least one film-forming polymer, composition A and / or composition B comprising at least one coloring agent selected from pigments, direct colorants, and mixtures thereof, and composition A and / or composition B comprising at least one compound selected from an amino acid, a polymer derived from an amino acid and mixtures thereof. A process according to claim 1, wherein the alkoxysilane(s), their oligomers and / or mixtures thereof are selected from compounds of formula (I) in which: - Ra represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, in particular from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl, or an alkoxy group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 2 carbon atoms, preferably an ethoxy; - Rb and Rc, identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms like an ethyl; - Rd and Re, identical, represent a hydrogen atom or Rd designates a hydrogen atom and Re designates a C5-C6 cycloalkyl radical such as cyclohexyl; - A independently represents an alkylene group having from 1 to 10 linear or branched carbon atoms, which can be interrupted by at least one heteroatom chosen from O, S, NH or a carbonyl group (CO), preferably NH; - r denotes an integer equal to 0.
3. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the alkoxysilane(s), their oligomers and / or mixtures thereof are selected from compounds of formula (I) in which Ra represents an ethoxy group, Rb and Rc are identical and represent an ethyl, Rd and Re represent a hydrogen atom, A represents a propylene and r denotes an integer equal to 0.
4. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the alkoxysilane(s) of formula (I) or formula (I'), their oligomers and / or mixtures thereof is (are) present in a total amount of 0.1 to 40% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 30% by weight, preferably 0.75 to 25% by weight, better 1 to 20% by weight, even better 1.5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A.
5. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the alkoxysilane(s) of formula (II), their oligomers and / or mixtures thereof are such that: - Ra represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as a methyl or an ethyl; - Rb represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as a methyl or an ethyl; - Rc represents an alkoxy group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as a methoxy or an ethoxy; - k denotes an integer equal to 0; - Rf represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and in particular from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as a methyl or ethyl group, preferably methyltrimethoxysilane (MTMS) or methyltriethoxysilane (MTES).
6. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the alkoxysilane(s) of formula (II), its oligomers and / or mixtures thereof is (are) present in a total amount from 0.5 to 90% by weight, preferably from 1 to 75%, preferably from 3 to 45% by weight, better from 5 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A.
7. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the film-forming polymer(s) are selected from homo- vinylpyrrolidone (PVP) polymers, acrylamide copolymers, acrylic acid ester homopolymers or copolymers, ethylene homopolymers or copolymers and their mixtures.
8. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the film-forming polymer(s) is / are present in a total amount of 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 25% by weight, even better 1 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B.
9. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein composition A and / or composition B comprises (include) at least one amino acid selected from arginine, histidine, glycine, proline, cysteine, lanthionine and mixtures thereof, more preferably arginine, glycine, proline and mixtures thereof.
10. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the compound(s) selected from an amino acid, a polymer derived from an amino acid and mixtures thereof is (are) present in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 25%, preferably from 0.5% to 15%, more preferably from 1% to 15%, even more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A and / or composition B.
11. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein composition A and / or composition B comprises (include) at least one non-ionic non-associative cellulosic polymer selected from hydroxyalkyl(Ci-C4)celluloses, preferably hydroxyethylcellulose and / or hydroxypropylcellulose.
12. A process according to claim 11, wherein the non-associative non-ionic cellulosic polymer(s) is / are present in a total amount preferably from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, better from 0.1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A and / or composition B.
13. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the colouring agent(s) are present in a total amount from 0.001 to 20%, preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, better from 0.005 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A and / or composition B, preferably the colouring agent(s) are selected from pigments.
14. Device for coloring keratin fibers such as hair, comprising several compartments containing: - in a first compartment, a composition A comprising: - at least one alkoxysilane selected from the compounds of formula (I) or formula (!') as described according to any one of claims 1 to 4, their oligomers and / or mixtures thereof, and - at least one alkoxysilane of formula (II) as described according to any one of claims 1, 5 or 6, its oligomers and / or mixtures thereof, - in a second compartment, a composition B according to the invention comprising: - at least one film-forming polymer as described in any one of claims 7 or 8, composition A and / or composition B comprising at least one coloring agent selected from pigments, direct colorants, and mixtures thereof, and composition A and / or composition B comprising at least one compound selected from an amino acid, a polymer derived from an amino acid and mixtures thereof as described according to any one of claims 9 or 10.