Composition comprising a polyphenol, a polyoxyethylenated compound reacting with the polyphenol by hydrogen bonding, a mono-alcohol and a water-dispersible film-forming polymer without styrene monomer
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2022003997
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2022-04-28
- Publication Date
- 2025-02-14
- Estimated Expiration
- 2042-04-28
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Composition comprising a polyphenol, a polyoxyethylenated compound reacting with the polyphenol by hydrogen bonding, a mono-alcohol and a hydrodispersible film-forming polymer without styrene monomer
[0001] The present invention relates to the field of care and / or makeup of keratin materials, and aims to propose compositions more particularly dedicated to keratin surfaces such as the skin, the eye contour, the lower and / or upper eyelids.
[0002] The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for coating the surface of a keratin material such as the skin, and more particularly the lower and / or upper eyelids, comprising the application of said cosmetic composition to said keratin surfaces.
[0003] Consumers usually look for shine, color intensity and good holding properties, particularly in water, in makeup compositions for keratinous surfaces such as the lower and / or upper eyelids, such as eyeliners.
[0004] Aqueous eyeliner compositions are generally preferred by consumers, particularly for their ease of application due to their fluidity, which allows the formation of the thinnest films to avoid color transfer during the drying step. Water-based cosmetic compositions are preferable because they are generally easier to remove, have a more natural feel and finish, and are less expensive to produce compared to solvent-based compositions. In addition, low-viscosity liquid compositions are particularly suitable for the most popular packaging currently available on the eyeliner market, such as those with a felt-tip or small brush tip.
[0005] Eyeliners commonly offered on the cosmetics market are often formulated with water as a solvent and aqueous dispersions of film-forming polymer particles (latex). For this type of product producing the deposit of a thin film after application, the consumer must generally wait a certain time before lifting the eyelid to avoid the transfer of the liner onto the eyelid. With thicker deposits, drying would be even longer and there would be more transfer onto the eyelid. To accelerate drying, solvents that are much more volatile than water, such as ethanol, could be used, but the compositions are then forced to have low quantities of film-forming polymers to avoid compositions that are too thick, which would be inapplicable or which do not allow a precise and fine deposit.
[0006] There therefore remains a need to find new compositions for the care and / or makeup of keratinous surfaces such as the lower and / or upper eyelids, producing makeup that dries quickly to a thin film and whose color does not transfer, remains stable and homogeneous over time without it being necessary to shake the product before application to rehomogenize.
[0007] Unexpectedly, the inventors found that it is possible to achieve these objectives by using a composition comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium: (1) at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups, and (2) at least one polyoxyethylenated compound Y capable of reacting by hydrogen bonding with said polyphenol X; and (3) at least one mono-alcohol having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms at contents ranging from 40 to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and (4) at least one water-dispersible film-forming polymer not derived from styrene monomer; and (5) at least one uncoated iron oxide type pigment.
[0008] This discovery is the basis of the invention. Objects of the invention
[0009] Thus, a first object of the present invention is a composition comprising, preferably in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least: (1) at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups, and (2) at least one polyoxyethylenated compound Y capable of reacting by hydrogen bonding with said polyphenol X; and (3) at least one mono-alcohol having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms at contents ranging from 40 to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and (4) at least one water-dispersible film-forming polymer not derived from styrene monomer; and (5) at least one uncoated iron oxide type pigment.
[0010] A second subject of the present invention is a method for coating keratin surfaces such as the skin, and more particularly the lower and / or upper eyelids, comprising the application to said keratin surfaces of said cosmetic composition as defined above. Definitions
[0011] In the context of the present invention, the term “material ké- ratinic”, skin such as the face, body, hands, cheeks, eyelids, eye contour, keratin fibers such as eyelashes, eyebrows, hairs such as those of the beard. This term “keratin materials”, within the meaning of the present invention, also extends to synthetic false eyelashes and false eyebrows.
[0012] By "physiologically acceptable" is meant compatible with the skin and / or its appendages, which has a pleasant color, odor and feel and which does not generate unacceptable discomfort (tingling, tightness), likely to deter the consumer from using this composition.
[0013] For the purposes of the invention, the term "hydrogen bond" means an interaction involving a hydrogen atom of one of the two reactants and an electronegative heteroatom of the other reactant such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and fluorine. In the context of the invention, the hydrogen bonds are formed between the hydroxyl (OH) functions of the reactive phenol groups of polyphenol X and the reactive oxyethylenated group(s) of compound Y capable of forming hydrogen bonds with those of said phenol groups of polyphenol X.
[0014] By “room temperature” we mean 25°C.
[0015] By “atmospheric pressure” we mean 760 mm of Hg or 101,325 Pascals.
[0016] By "film-forming polymer not derived from styrene monomer" is meant any homo- film-forming polymer or copolymer which is not the result of a polymerization reaction using one or more styrene monomers. In other words, the film-forming polymer of the invention does not comprise, after polymerization, the following unit:
[0017] By "water-dispersible polymer" is meant any polymer originating from a dispersion of particles of said polymer in an aqueous medium. Polyphenol X
[0018] The polyphenols X which can be used according to the present invention comprise at least two different phenol groups in their structure.
[0019] By “polyphenol” is meant any compound having in its chemical structure at least two, preferably at least three phenol groups.
[0020] By “phenol group” is meant any group comprising an aromatic monocycle, preferably a benzene cycle, comprising at least one hydroxyl group (OH).
[0021] By “different phenol groups” is meant chemically different phenol groups.
[0022] The polyphenols X that can be used according to the invention can be synthetic or natural. They can be in the isolated state or contained in a mixture, in particular contained in a plant extract. The polyphenols are phenols comprising at least two phenolic groups differently substituted on the aromatic cycle.
[0023] The two classes of polyphenols are flavonoids and non-flavonoids.
[0024] Examples of flavonoids include chalcones such as phloretin, phloridzin, aspalathin or neohesperidin; flavanols such as catechin, fisetin, kaempferol, myricetin, quercetin, rutin, procyanidins, proanthocyanidins, pyroanthocyanidins, theaflavins or thearubigins (or thearubrins); dihydroflavonols such as astilbin, dihydroquercetin (taxifolin), or silibinin; flavanones such as hesperidin, neohesperidin, hesperetin, naringenin, naringin; anthocyanins such as cyanidin, delphinidin, malvidin, peonidin or petunidin; catechin tannins such as tannic acid; isoflavonoids such as daidzein, or genistein; neo-flavanoids; lignans such as pyroresorcinol; and mixtures thereof.
[0025] Among the natural polyphenols X that can be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of lignins.
[0026] Examples of non-flavonoids include curcuminoids such as curcumin or tetrahydrocurcumin; stilbenoids such as astringin, resveratrol or rhaponticin; aurones such as aureusidin; and mixtures thereof.
[0027] As polyphenols which can be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of chlorogenic acid, verbascoside; coumarins substituted by phenols
[0028] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, polyphenol X will be selected from catechic tannins such as gallotannins selected from tannic acid; ella-gytannins such as epigallocatechin, epigallocatechin gallate, castalagin, ves-calagin, vescalin, castalin, casuarictin, castanopsins, excoeca-rianins, grandinin, gradin, roburines, ptéacutinine, arocarin tellimagrandines, sanguiine, potentilline, pedunculin, geraniin, chebulagic acid, sprendisinic acid, ascorgeranine, stachyurin, casuarinin, casuarinin, punicacortein, coriarin, camelliatannides, dehydrodyllodyl, hellinoyl, punicalagin, rhoipteleanines..
[0029] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the polyphenol X is epigallocatechin, in particular a green tea extract with the INCI name GREEN TEA EXTRACT, in particular comprising at least 45% of epigallocatechin relative to the total weight of said extract such as the commercial product sold under the name DERMOFEEL PHENON 90 MC® sold by the company Evonik Nutrition & Care or the commercial product sold under the name TEA POLYPHENOLS GREEN TEA EXTRACT® by the company Tayo Green Power.
[0030] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, polyphenol X is a procyanidin or a mixture of procyanidins, in particular an extract of maritime pine bark with the INCI name PINUS PINASTER BARK / BUD EXTRACT, in particular comprising at least 65% by weight of procyanidins relative to the total weight of said extract such as commercial product sold under the name PYCNOGENOL® sold by the company BIOLANDES AROMES.
[0031] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, polyphenol X is tannic acid like the commercial product sold under the name Brewtan F® by the company Anijomoto Omnichem Nv.
[0032] Tannic acid will be used more particularly as polyphenol X.
[0033] According to a particular embodiment, the polyphenol(s) X of the invention is (are) present in an amount greater than or equal to 0.8% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 1.0% by weight, and more particularly greater than or equal to 2.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0034] According to a particular embodiment, the polyphenol(s) X of the invention are present in an amount ranging from 1.0 to 30.0% by weight, and more particularly ranging from 2.0 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Polyoxyethylene compound Y
[0035] The polyoxyethylenated Y compounds according to the invention comprise in their chemical structure at least one oxyethylenated group capable of forming a hydrogen bond with the phenol groups of the polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenols.
[0036] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “polyoxyethylenated compound” means any molecule comprising in its chemical structure at least one chain comprising oxyethylenated units -(OCH2CH2)n.
[0037] In a preferred embodiment, the molar mass of compound Y is greater than 200 g / mol, or even greater than 350 g / mol.
[0038] According to a particular embodiment, the compound(s) Y, in the medium of the composition, do not comprise an anionic group in their chemical structure, and in particular are non-ionic.
[0039] As examples of polyoxyethylenated Y compounds capable of reacting with polyphenols X such as those indicated above, mention may be made of (1) polyoxyethylenated waxes, in particular chosen from polyoxyethylenated ester waxes such as polyoxyethylenated jojoba wax (120 EO) (INCI name: Jojoba Wax PEG-120 Esters), PEG-8 Beeswax, PEG-60 Lanolin, PEG-75 Lanolin, PPG-12-PEG-50 Lanolin; (2) polyethylene glycols of type H(O-CH2-CH2)n-OH in particular chosen from , PEG-14M, PEG-20, PEG-45M, PEG-90, PEG-90M, PEG-150, PEG-180, PEG-220; (3) Poloxamers of the HO-(CH2-CH2-O)n-(CHCH3-CH2-O)O-(CH2-CH2-O)pH type, in particular chosen from Poloxamer 124, Poloxamer 184, Poloxamer 338, Poloxamer 124, Poloxamer 184, Poloxamer 184, Poloxamer 338; (4) Polypropylene glycols alkyl ethers of type: CnH2n+1-(OC(CH3)H-CH2)o-(O-CH2-CH2)p-OH in particular chosen from PPG-5-Ceteth-20, PPG-6-Decyltetradeceth-30. (5) Compounds of the type: H(OC(CnH2n+1)-CH2)o-(CH2-CH2-O)p-(CH2-C(CqH2q+1)HO)rH in particular the PEG-45 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer. (6) Type compounds: CnH2n+1-(O-CH2-CH2)oO-CH2-C(CpH2p+1)HOH in particular Ceteareth-60 Myristyl Glycol; (7) Poloxyethylened glycerols, in particular oxyethylened glycerin 26 OE (Glycereth-26); (8) The alkylpolyethyleneglycols of type CnH2n+r(O-CH2-CH2)o-OH, in particular selected from Ceteth-2, Ceteth-10, Ceteth-20, Ceteth-25, Isoceteth-20, Laureth-2, Laureth-3, Laureth-4, and Laureth-12, and Laureth-23, l'Oleth-2, l'Oleth-5, rOleth-10, l'Oleth-20, l'Oleth-25, and Deceth-3, and Deceth-5, and Beheneth-10, and Steareth-2, and Steareth-10, and Steareth-20, and Steareth-21, and Steareth-100, and Ceteareth-12, and Ceteareth-15, and Ceteareth-20, and Ceteareth-25, and Ceteareth-30, and Ceteareth-33, and Coceth-7, and Trideceth-12 ; (9) polyoxyethylenated alkylphosphates, in particular chosen from Trilaureth-4 Phosphate, Ceteth-10 Phosphate, Oleth-10 Phosphate, PPG-5-Ceteth-10 Phosphate (10) polyoxyethylenated alkylamines of the CH3-(CH2)n-(CH=CH)o-(CH)pN((CH2-CH2-O)H)q((CH2-CH2-O)rH) type, in particular: (11) polyethylene glycol and fatty acid esters of the type CnH2n+1-(CH=CH2)o-CpH2p-CO-(O-CH2-CH2)n-OH or CnH2n+1-(CH=CH)o-CpH2p-CO-(O-CH2-CH2)qO-CO-CrH2r+1or CnH2n+1-(CH=CH)o-CO-(O-CH2-CH2)qO-CnH2n+1 Or CnH2n+iO-CH(alkyl)-(CH2)p-(O-CH2-CH2)qO-CO-CrH2r+i in particular chosen from PEG-6 Isostearate, PEG-6 Stearate, PEG-8 Stearate, PEG-8 Isostearate, PEG-20 Stearate, PEG-30 Stearate, PEG-32 Stearate, PEG-40 Stearate, PEG-75 Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, PEG-8 Distearate, PEG-150 Distearate, Mereth-3 Myristate, PEG-4 Olivate, Propyleneglycol Ceteth-3 Acetate, PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate; (12) Polyoxyethylenated carboxylic acids of the CnH2n+i-(O-CH2-CH2)o-COOH type, in particular chosen from PEG-7 Capric Acid, PEG-6 Caprylic Acid, PEG-7 Caprylic Acid, Laureth-5 Carboxylic Acid, Laureth-11 Carboxylic Acid, Laureth-12 Carboxylic Acid; (13) polyoxyethylenated alkylglycerides, in particular chosen from PEG-6 Caprylic / Capric Glycerides, PEG-60 Almond Glycerides, PEG-10 Olive Glycerides, PEG-45 Palm Kernel Glycerides, PEG-70 Mango Glycerides; (14) polyoxyethylenated alkylglucoses, in particular chosen from Methyl-Gluceth-10, Methyl-Gluceth-20; (15) polyoxyethylenated sugar esters such as PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate, PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate. (16) polyoxyethylenated and polyoxypropylenated alkyl glycol ethers such as PPG-l-PEG-9 Lauryl Glycol Ether. (17) polyoxyethylenated pentaerythritol esters and ethers, in particular PEG-150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate. (18) polysorbates, in particular chosen from Polysorbate-20, Polysorbate-21, Polysorbate-60, Polysorbate-61, Polysorbate-80, Polysorbate-85. (19) polyoxyethylenated polyamines, in particular PEG-15 Cocopolyamine. (20) polyoxyethylenated dihydrocholesteryl esters of structure: [Chem 2] in particular Dihydrocholeth-30. (21) optionally hydrogenated esters of glycerol and polyoxyethylenated fatty acid chosen from PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, PEG-30 Glyceryl Cocoate, PEG-200 Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-200 Hydrogenated Glyceryl Palmitate; (22) polyoxyethylenated hydrogenated castor oils such as PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, (23) Polyethylene glycol ethers of fatty acid ester and propylene glycol such as PEG-55 Propylene Glycol Oleate (24) polyoxyethylene butters, in particular polyoxyethylene shea butter such as PEG-50 Shea Butter; (25) polyoxyalkylenated silicones, in particular chosen from PEG / PPG-17 / 18 Dimethicone, PEG / PPG-18 / 18 Dimethicone, Trideceth-9 PG-Amodimethicone, PEG / PPG-22 / 24 Dimethicone; (26) polyoxyalkylenated silanes, in particular chosen from Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl ether Dimethyl Silane; (27) Polyoxyethylenated acrylate copolymers, in particular the copolymer with INCI name: Acrylate / Palmeth-25 Acrylate Copolymer; (28) polyoxyalkylenated alkanediols such as PEG-8 Caprylyl Glycol; (29) polyoxyethylenated rapeseed amides and sterols (Rapeseed), in particular chosen from PEG-4 Rapeseed Amide, PEG-5 Rapeseed Sterol. (30) polyoxyethylene lanolins such as Laneth-15; (31) polyoxyethylene fatty acid sorbitol esters such as PEG-40 Sorbitan Peroleate; (32) polyoxyethylenated glycerol esters such as Glycereth-25 PCA Isostearate; (33) mixtures thereof.
[0040] According to a preferred embodiment, the compound(s) Y will be chosen from non-ionic compounds.
[0041] According to a preferred embodiment, the compound(s) Y will be chosen from (i) polyethylene glycols, in particular PEG-180; (ii) polyoxyethylenated hydrogenated castor oils, in particular PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil; iii) optionally hydrogenated esters of glycerol and polyoxyethylenated fatty acids, in particular PEG-30 Glyceryl Cocoate, (iv) polysorbates, in particular Polysorbate 80; vi) their mixtures.
[0042] According to a preferred embodiment, the polyoxyethylenated compound Y is a polysorbate, in particular Polysorbate 80.
[0043] According to a preferred embodiment, the polyoxyethylenated compound(s) Y of the invention is (are) present in an amount greater than or equal to 0.8% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 1.0% by weight, in particular greater than or equal to 2.0% by weight, more particularly in an amount ranging from 3 to 30% by weight, and even better ranging from 4 to 20%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0044] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the molar ratio of the reactive hydroxyl groups (OH) of the polyphenol(s) X to the reactive oxyethylenated group(s) of the polyoxyethylenated compound(s) Y capable of forming a hydrogen bond with said hydroxyl groups, preferably varies from 1 / 3 to 20, more preferably from 1 / 2 to 15, and more particularly from 3 / 4 to 3. Mono-alcohol
[0045] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one mono-alcohol comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, in particular from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, and in particular from 2 to 4 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol, propanol or butanol, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly ethanol.
[0046] The mono-alcohol(s) comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms is (are) then preferably present at contents ranging from 40 to 90% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 40 to 80% by weight, and more particularly from 45 to 65% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Water-dispersible film-forming polymer
[0047] The composition of the present invention comprises at least one water-dispersible film-forming polymer not derived from styrene monomer.
[0048] In the present application, the term "film-forming polymer" means a polymer capable of forming, on its own or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a continuous deposit on a support, at a temperature ranging from 20°C to 150°C.
[0049] According to a particular formula of the invention, the water-dispersible film-forming polymer may be in the form of an aqueous dispersion of particles generally bearing the name (pseudo)latex, i.e. latex or pseudo latex. The techniques for preparing these dispersions are well known to those skilled in the art.
[0050] In the present invention, the term "aqueous phase" means a liquid medium based on water and / or hydrophilic solvents. This aqueous liquid medium may consist essentially of water. It may also comprise a mixture of water and water-miscible organic solvent(s) (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25°C) such as lower monoalcohols having 2 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol, glycols having 3 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, C3-C4 ketones, C2-C4 aldehydes.
[0051] The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more types of water-dispersible film-forming polymer which may be characterized by their structure and / or by their chemical nature.
[0052] The water-dispersible film-forming polymer(s) may be present in a dry matter content of less than 20% by weight, ranging from 1 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 2 to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0053] The water-dispersible film-forming polymers can be of anionic, cationic or neutral nature and can constitute a mixture of polymers of different natures.
[0054] Among the water-dispersible film-forming polymers that can be used in the composition of the present invention, mention may be made of synthetic polymers of the radical type. Generally speaking, these polymers may be random polymers, block copolymers of the AB type, multi-block A-BA or even ABCD, etc., or even grafted polymers.
[0055] By "radical polymer" is meant a polymer obtained by polymerization of monomers with unsaturation, in particular ethylenic unsaturation, each monomer being capable to homopolymerize.
[0056] The water-dispersible film-forming polymers of radical type may be chosen from acrylic radical homopolymers or copolymers, vinyl radical homopolymers or copolymers; and mixtures thereof.
[0057] The vinyl water-dispersible film-forming polymers may result from the polymerization of ethylenically unsaturated monomers having at least one acid group and / or esters of these acid monomers and / or amides of these acid monomers.
[0058] As ethylenically unsaturated monomers having at least one acid group or monomer carrying an acid group, it is possible to use α,[3-ethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acids such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid. In particular, (meth)acrylic acid and crotonic acid are used, and more particularly (meth)acrylic acid.
[0059] The acid monomer esters are advantageously chosen from esters of (meth)acrylic acid (also called (meth)acrylates), in particular alkyl (meth)acrylates, in particular C1-C20 alkyl, more particularly C1-C8 alkyl, aryl (meth)acrylates, in particular C6-C10 aryl, hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylates, in particular C2-C6 hydroxyalkyl.
[0060] Among the alkyl (meth)acrylates, mention may be made of methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl methacrylate, lauryl methacrylate.
[0061] Among the hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylates, mention may be made of hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate.
[0062] The esters of (meth)acrylic acid are in particular alkyl (meth)acrylates.
[0063] According to the present invention, the alkyl group of the esters can be either fluorinated or perfluorinated, that is to say that some or all of the hydrogen atoms of the alkyl group are substituted by fluorine atoms.
[0064] As amides of the acid monomers, mention may be made, for example, of (meth)acrylamides, and in particular of N-alkyl (meth)acrylamides, in particular of C2-Ci2 alkyl. Among the N-alkyl (meth)acrylamides, mention may be made of N-ethyl acrylamide, Nt-butyl acrylamide and Nt-octyl acrylamide.
[0065] The water-dispersible vinyl film-forming polymers may also result from the homopolymerization or copolymerization of monomers chosen from vinyl esters. In particular, these monomers may be polymerized with acid monomers and / or their esters and / or their amides, such as those mentioned above.
[0066] Examples of vinyl esters include vinyl acetate, neo- vinyl decanoate, vinyl pivalate, vinyl benzoate and vinyl t-butyl benzoate.
[0067] The list of monomers given is not limiting and it is possible to use any monomer known to those skilled in the art falling into the categories of acrylic and vinyl monomers (including monomers modified by a silicone chain).
[0068] Mention may also be made of polymers resulting from the radical polymerization of one or more radical monomers, inside and / or partially on the surface of pre-existing particles of at least one polymer chosen from the group consisting of polyurethanes, polyureas, polyesters, polyester amides and / or alkyds. These polymers are generally called “hybrid polymers”.
[0069] Detailed below are different types of water-dispersible film-forming polymers, in particular commercial ones, suitable for the preparation of the composition in accordance with the present invention.
[0070] 1 / Thus, according to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the film-forming polymer water-dispersible is an acrylic copolymer.
[0071] As acrylic polymer, those originating from the aqueous dispersions of acrylic copolymer sold under the names "Acronal DS-6250®" and "Joncryl 95®" by the company BASF, "Daitosol 5000 AD®" (INCI name: ACRYLATES COPOLYMER) or "Daitosol 5000 SJ®" (INCI name: ACRYLATES / ETHYLHEXYL ACRYLATE COPOLYMER) by the company DAITO KASEY KOGYO, "Acudyne 5600P®" and "Acudyne 5800P®" (INCI name: ACRYLATES COPOLYMER) from the company Dow Chemical can be used according to the invention. The content of film-forming polymer particles suspended in these dispersions currently available on the market varies from approximately 20 to approximately 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the dispersion.
[0072] The quantity of active material of water-dispersible film-forming polymer not derived from styrene monomer, in the composition of the invention, preferably, is less than or equal to 20%, more preferably varies from 1 to 15% by weight, and more particularly from 2 to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Pigment
[0073] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one pigment of the uncoated iron oxide type (INCI Name Iron Oxide).
[0074] The term “pigment” means particles insoluble in an aqueous medium, intended to color and / or opacify the composition and / or the resulting deposit.
[0075] By “uncoated pigment” is meant any pigment not treated with a surface agent covering it partially or totally by being absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto said pigment.
[0076] According to a preferred embodiment, the pigment(s) are present in a amount of up to 35.0% by weight, more preferably up to 25.0% by weight and more particularly ranging from 4 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0077] According to a particular embodiment, the uncoated pigments used according to the invention are chosen from yellow iron oxides (CI 77492), red iron oxides, black iron oxides (CI 47499), and mixtures thereof.
[0078] The size of the pigment useful in the context of the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and can range up to 10 qm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 qm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 qm.
[0079] According to a particular form of the invention, the pigments have a size characterized by a D
[50] greater than 100 nm and which can range up to 10 qm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 qm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 qm.
[0080] The sizes are measured by static light scattering using a commercial granulometer of the MasterSizer 3000® type from Malvem, making it possible to understand the particle size distribution of all the particles over a wide range from 0.01 qm to 1000 qm. The data are processed on the basis of the classical Mie scattering theory. This theory is the most suitable for size distributions ranging from submicron to multi-micron, it makes it possible to determine an “effective” particle diameter. This theory is notably described in the work of Van de Hulst, HC, “Light Scattering by Small Particles”, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.
[0081] D
[50] represents the maximum size that 50% by volume of the particles has.
[0082] In the context of the present invention, the pigments are more particularly black iron oxides (CI 77499). Cosmetic composition
[0083] The composition can be manufactured by known methods, generally used in the cosmetic field.
[0084] The composition of the invention comprises water.
[0085] The quantity of water is preferably less than or equal to 30% by weight, and more preferably varies from 2 to 30% by weight, and more particularly from 5 to 25% relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0086] The composition of the invention may contain demineralized water, or even floral water such as cornflower water and / or mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water and / or thermal water.
[0087] The composition of the invention may also contain solvents and ingredients soluble or miscible in water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25°C), in addition to the mono-alcohols mentioned above, such as polyols having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, glycerin, dipropylene glycol; C3-C4 ketones, C2-C4 aldehydes.
[0088] The pH of the composition is preferably less than 6, more preferably between 2 and 6 and more particularly between 2 and 5. Oily Phase
[0089] The composition of the invention may additionally comprise an oily phase;
[0090] The term “oily phase” means a liquid phase at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure comprising oils, waxes, pasty bodies and possibly all organic solvents and ingredients which are soluble or miscible in said phase.
[0091] The oil or oils may be chosen from mineral, animal, vegetable, synthetic oils, in particular chosen from hydrocarbon and / or silicone and / or fluorinated oils, volatile or non-volatile, and mixtures thereof.
[0092] By "oil" is meant a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760mm Hg or 101,325 Pa). The oil may be volatile or non-volatile.
[0093] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “silicone oil” means an oil comprising at least one Si-O group, and more particularly an organopolysiloxane.
[0094] The term “fluorinated oil” means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.
[0095] The term “hydrocarbon oil” means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally one or more functions chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether, carboxylic functions.
[0096] For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means any oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, liquid at room temperature, having in particular a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 2.66 Pa to 40,000 Pa, in particular ranging from 2.66 Pa to 13,000 Pa, and more particularly ranging from 2.66 Pa to 1,300 Pa.
[0097] By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the skin or keratin fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and having in particular a vapor pressure of less than 2.66 Pa, preferably less than 0.13 Pa. For example, the vapor pressure can be measured according to the static method or by the isothermal thermogravimetry effusion method, according to the vapor pressure (OECD standard 104). Volatile hydrocarbon oils
[0098] As an example of a volatile hydrocarbon oil that can be used in the invention, it is possible to quote: - hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isododecane, isohexadecane, and for example oils sold under the trade names Isopars® or Permetyls®, branched C8-C16 esters, isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell or by the company SHELL, may also be used; volatile linear alkanes such as those described in the patent application of the company Cognis DE10 2008 012 457 and such as that sold under the trade name CETIOL ULTIMATE® by the company BASF.We can also mention the dodecane / tetradecane mixture in the weight ratio 85 / 15 marketed by the company BIOSYNTHIS under the reference VEGELIGHT 1214® as well as the mixture of volatile linear alkanes in C9-C12-with INCI name: C9-12 ALKANE such as the product marketed by the company BIOSYNTHIS under the reference VEGELIGHT SILK®. Non-volatile hydrocarbon oils
[0099] As an example of non-volatile hydrocarbon oil that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of: - linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin such as paraffin oils and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, polybutenes, polyisobutenes, hydrogenated or not such as Parleam, squalane; - synthetic ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms such as dicaprylyl ether; - triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and glycerol, in particular the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths varying from C4 to C36, and in particular from C[8 to C36, these oils being able to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils may in particular be heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, wheat germ oils, sunflower oils, grape seed oils, sesame (820.6 g / mol), corn oils, apricot oils, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cotton oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pothnarron oil, pumpkin oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, musk rose oil; shea oil; or caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by the company Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Dynamit Nobel - linear aliphatic hydrocarbon esters of formula RCOOR' in which RCOO represents a carboxylic acid residue containing from 2 to 40 atoms of carbon, and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, such as cetostearyl octanoate, esters of isopropyl alcohol such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, and in particular isostearyl heptanoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 4-diheptanoate and 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, alkyl benzoate, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, octyl-2-docecyl neopentanoate, isononanoic acid esters such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate,octyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate; lauroyl isopropyl sarcosinate, diisopropyl sebacate, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl behenate; , - polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and diol such as those described in patent application FR 0 853 634, such as in particular dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol. In this respect, we may notably mention the polymer marketed by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H® (INCI name: Dilinoleic Acid / Butane diol Copolymer), or copolymers of polyols and diacid dimers, and their esters, such as Hailuscent ISDA®, - di-alkyl carbonates, the 2 alkyl chains being able to be identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate marketed under the name Cetiol CC®, by Cognis; - linear fatty acid esters having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70 such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, - aromatic esters such as tridecyl trimellitate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, 2-phenyl ethyl ester of benzoic acid, butyl octyl salicylate, - esters and polyesters of dimer diol and mono- or dicarboxylic acid, such as esters of dimer diol and fatty acid and esters of dimer diols and dimer dicarboxylic acid, such as Lusplan DD-DA5® and Lusplan DD-DA7® marketed by the company NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL and described in application US 2004-175338, the content of which is incorporated into the present application by reference; - fatty alcohols having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyl decanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, oleyl alcohol; - di-alkyl carbonates, the 2 alkyl chains being able to be identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate marketed under the name Cetiol CC®, by Cognis; and - and their mixtures. Non-volatile silicone oils
[0100] Among the non-volatile silicone oils, mention may be made of silicone oils such as non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS); phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, diphenyl dimethicones, trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane, tetramethyl tetraphenyl trisiloxane, trimethyl-siloxyphenyl dimethicone, diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone, and mixtures thereof.
[0101] Volatile, linear or cyclic silicone oils
[0102] As linear volatile silicone oils, mention may be made of octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
[0103] As cyclic volatile silicone oils, mention may be made of octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane and mixtures thereof.
[0104] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the total quantity of non-volatile oil(s) is less than or equal to 10% by weight, more preferably, in particular less than or equal to 5.0% by weight, or even less than 2.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0105] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition of the invention may be free of non-volatile oil.
[0106] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the total quantity of volatile oil(s) is less than or equal to 20% by weight, more preferably less than or equal to 10.0%, in particular less than or equal to 5.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0107] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition of the invention may be free of volatile oil.
[0108] The composition can be manufactured by known methods, generally used in the cosmetic field. Cosmetic additives
[0109] The compositions of the invention may contain additives commonly used in cosmetics. Mention may in particular be made of antioxidants, preservatives, neutralizers, cosmetic active ingredients such as, for example, emollients, moisturizers, vitamins, sunscreens and mixtures thereof.
[0110] The composition used according to the invention may be a skin care and / or makeup composition.
[0111] More specifically, the composition according to the invention is a makeup product for the face such as a foundation, for the cheeks such as blushers or for the eyelids such as eyeshadows.
[0112] The composition used according to the invention may be a care and / or makeup composition for the eye contour or keratin fibers such as the eyelashes or eyebrows.
[0113] More specifically, the composition according to the invention is a makeup product for the eyelashes such as a mascara, a makeup product for the eyebrows or a product for the eye contour such as an eyeliner.
[0114] More specifically, the composition according to the invention is a makeup product for the eye contour such as an eyeliner.
[0115] It can be a makeup base also called a base coat, a composition to be applied over makeup also called a top coat, or even a composition for treating keratin materials.
[0116] Such compositions are in particular prepared according to the general knowledge of those skilled in the art.
[0117] Packaging and application assembly or kit
[0118] The present invention also relates to a set, or kit, for packaging and applying a cosmetic composition for coating keratin materials. comprising: - a device for packaging said cosmetic composition for coating keratin materials, as previously described, - an applicator of said composition.
[0119] According to another aspect, the invention also relates to a makeup set comprising: (i) an applicator capable of drawing a line around the eye ii) an eyeliner composition according to the invention placed inside a container.
[0120] The container may delimit one or more compartment(s). The container may for example be in the form of a tube.
[0121] Such an applicator may be integral with a cap mounted reversibly on said container between a position for closing said container and a makeup position.
[0122] Alternatively, such an applicator may be irreversibly mounted on said container. Examples of applicators include those of the felt or brush type which may be made of synthetic fibers.
[0123] It is understood that within the framework of the present invention, the weight percentages given for a compound or a family of compounds are always expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0124] Throughout the application, the expression "has a" or "includes a" must be understood as meaning "having at least one" or "comprising at least one", unless otherwise specified.
[0125] It is understood that the following examples are provided for illustrative purposes and are in no way limiting of the scope of the protection conferred by the present application. Examples 1 and 2: Eye Liners
[0126] .[Tables 1] Phases Ingredients 1 (invention) 2 (invention) A Tannic acid (Brewtan F®-Anijomoto Omnichem Nv) 5 5 Ethanol 70 60 Polysorbate-80 (TWEEN-80-LQ® from CRODA)a 5 5 B Aqueous dispersion of film-forming polymer particles ACRYLATES COPOLYMER (Daitosol 5000 AD® ) 20 20 C Black iron oxide (CI 77499) SUNPURO C33-7001® from SUN - 10 Preparation protocol
[0127] Phase A was prepared at room temperature (25°C) by dissolving the tannic acid and the Polysorbate-80 in ethanol. Once the mixture was homogeneous, phase B comprising the aqueous dispersion of film-forming polymer particles was added to this preparation with stirring to obtain a transparent and homogeneous composition. Then, in the case of composition 2, phase C based on the pigment was added to obtain a black and homogeneous composition. Both compositions 1 and 2, after application to the surfaces of the eyelids, dried quickly to a thin film.
Claims
Claims
1. Composition comprising, preferably in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least: (1) at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups, and (2) at least one polyoxyethylenated compound Y capable of reacting by hydrogen bonding with said polyphenol X; and (3) at least one mono-alcohol having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms at contents ranging from 40 to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.; and (4) at least one water-dispersible film-forming polymer not derived from styrene monomer; and (5) at least one pigment of the uncoated iron oxide type.
2. Composition according to claim 1, where the polyphenol X is chosen from catechol tannins, in particular chosen from gallotannins and ellagitannins.
3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the polyphenol X is epigallocatechin, in particular a green tea extract comprising at least 45% by weight of epigallocatechin relative to the weight of said extract.
4. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the polyphenol X is a procyanidin or a mixture of procyanidins, in particular an extract of maritime pine bark, in particular comprising at least 65% by weight of procyanidins relative to the total weight of said extract.
5. A composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the polyphenol X is tannic acid.
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, where the polyphenol(s) X are present in an amount greater than or equal to 0.8% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 1.0% by weight, and more particularly greater than or equal to 2.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the polyphenol(s) X is (are) present in an amount ranging from 1.0 to 30.0% by weight, and more particularly ranging from 2.0 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
8. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the molar mass of the polyoxyethylene compound Y is greater than 200 g / mol, or even greater than 350 g / mol.
9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the polyoxyethylene compound Y, in the medium of the composition containing them, does not comprise an anionic group in their chemical structure, and in particular is non-ionic.
10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the polyoxyethylenated compound Y is chosen from ii) polyoxyethylenated optionally hydrogenated glycerol and fatty acid esters, in particular PEG-30 Glyceryl Cocoate, iii) polyethylene glycols, in particular PEG-180; iv) polyoxyethylenated hydrogenated castor oils PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil; v) polysorbates, in particular Polysorbate 80; vi) mixtures thereof.
11. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the polyoxyethylenated compound Y is a polysorbate, in particular Polysorbate 80.
12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, where the polyoxyethylenated compound(s) Y of the invention is (are) present in an amount greater than or equal to 0.8% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 1.0% by weight, in particular greater than or equal to 2.0% by weight, more particularly in an amount ranging from 3 to 30% by weight, and even better ranging from 4 to 20%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the molar ratio of the reactive hydroxyl groups (OH) of the polyphenol(s) X to the reactive oxyethylenated group(s) of the polyoxyethylenated compound(s) Y capable of forming a hydrogen bond with said hydroxyl groups, preferably varies from 1 / 3 to 20, more preferably from 1 / 2 to 15, and more particularly from 3 / 4 to 3.
14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the mono-alcohol comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms is chosen from ethanol, isopropanol, propanol or butanol, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly is ethanol.
15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the mono-alcohol(s) comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms is (are) present at contents ranging from 40 to 90% by weight, and more preferably- potentially ranging from 40 to 80% by weight, and more particularly from 45 to 65% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the water-dispersible film-forming polymer is chosen from acrylic radical homopolymers or copolymers, vinyl radical homopolymers or copolymers; and mixtures thereof; and more particularly acrylic radical homopolymers or copolymers.
17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, where the quantity of active material of water-dispersible film-forming polymer not derived from styrene monomer is less than or equal to 20% by weight, more preferably varies from 1 to 15% by weight, and more particularly from 2 to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
18. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the uncoated iron oxide(s) is (are) present in an amount of up to 35.0% by weight, more preferably up to 25.0% by weight and more particularly from 4 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
19. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the pigment(s) are black iron oxides.
20. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it additionally contains an oily phase.
21. Composition according to claim 19, wherein the total quantity of non-volatile oil(s) is less than or equal to 10% by weight, more preferably, in particular less than or equal to 5.0% by weight, or even less than 2.0% by weight, or even free of non-volatile oil relative to the total weight of the composition.
22. Composition according to claim 19, wherein the total amount of volatile oil(s) is less than or equal to 20% by weight, more preferably less than or equal to 10% by weight, in particular less than or equal to 5.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
23. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is free of non-volatile oil or free of volatile oil.
24. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of a makeup product for the eye contour such as an eyeliner.
25. Assembly, or kit, for packaging and applying a cosmetic composition for coating keratin materials comprising: - a device for packaging said cosmetic composition for coating keratin materials as defined in any one of the preceding claims; - an applicator for said composition.
26. A method of coating keratin surfaces such as the skin, and more particularly the lower and / or upper eyelids, comprising the application to said keratin surfaces of said cosmetic composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 24.