Cosmetic composition comprising amino acids, hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids and silicones, and cosmetic processing method

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, preferably for hair care, comprising amino acid-type compounds, hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids, comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and one or more silicones present at a total content of at least 0.5% by weight. The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method, in particular for washing and / or conditioning hair, using said composition.

Description

Title of the invention: Cosmetic composition comprising amino acids, hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids and silicones, and cosmetic processing method

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, particularly for hair care, comprising one or more amino acid compounds, one or more carboxylic hydroxy acids, and one or more silicones. The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method using said composition.

[0002] Consumers worldwide are generally in contact with very diverse water sources which have an impact on hair, particularly on its cosmetic properties and / or the performance of hair products.

[0003] So-called mineral waters, for example, contain varying amounts of minerals present as dissolved ions, such as calcite (present as calcium), dolomite (present as calcium and magnesium), magnetite (present as iron), and chalcanthite (present as copper). So-called hard waters are also concentrated in minerals such as calcium and magnesium, while swimming pool waters are concentrated in copper salts from algaecides used in pool treatment.

[0004] Hair has a strong tendency to absorb these minerals and / or their metallic salts due to the presence on its surface of anionic groups, which correspond in particular to the sulfonic or carboxylic groups of keratin. Furthermore, the isoelectric point of hair is generally described as being between 3.2 and 4. Consequently, in everyday life, the pH of the water applied to the hair is higher than these values, resulting in a negatively charged hair fiber.

[0005] Minerals, often polyvalent cations, are thus attracted to and captured by this negatively charged fiber, forming chemical bonds that prevent their release through conventional hair treatment processes. This results in a possible accumulation of minerals on the hair over time. Such fixation depends not only on the water hardness, the frequency and / or duration of the hair's exposure to the water in question, but also on the nature and length of the hair (particularly its porosity and charge) as well as its state of damage.

[0006] The accumulation of these minerals and / or their metallic salts can lead to changes in the hair fiber and, in particular, a more or less marked alteration of the hair's cosmetic properties. Thus, an accumulation of calcium and magnesium can lead to dry hair, lacking shine, while a Copper buildup can lead to greening of the hair.

[0007] In addition, the accumulation of metallic salts (iron, copper, for example) can accelerate damage to hair because they catalyze redox reactions and generate hydroxyl radicals HO° which can be harmful to the keratin fiber, even at low levels.

[0008] This can result in photo-degradation of the fiber, lightening of the fiber, as well as an alteration of the properties of the hair, which can lead to premature breakage of the hair; these phenomena are particularly observed during the subsequent use of lightening products or coloring products.

[0009] In other words, hair can become less resistant, weaker, or even break more easily, or lose its shine, due to the accumulation of minerals and / or their metallic salts.

[0010] There is therefore a real need for compositions that can combat the accumulation of metallic ions from minerals and metallic salts dissolved in water, or even allow them to be extracted from keratin fibers, in order to limit their negative impacts and overcome all the disadvantages mentioned above.

[0011] The composition which is the subject of the present invention, and its implementation, make it possible to achieve this goal.

[0012] The present invention therefore relates to a cosmetic composition, preferably for hair, comprising:

[0013] - one or more amino acid-type compounds, preferably present in a total content of at least 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0014] - one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids, comprising 2 to 8 atoms of carbon, and / or their salts, preferably present in a total content of at least 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and

[0015] - one or more silicones, present in a total content of at least 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0016] It has been observed that the composition according to the invention makes it possible to improve the resistance to breakage of the hair, to strengthen the hair and also to significantly limit its reduction or loss of shine, undesirable effects that may be caused by the presence of metal ions, in particular copper or calcium, within said fibers.

[0017] After application of the composition, the fibers are as if reinforced, said reinforcement being improved with successive applications of the composition.

[0018] It has also been observed that the composition according to the invention further provides conditioning properties to the hair, including a smooth feel, softness, shine and easier detangling, while also providing the strength, of the body and a mass effect on the hair.

[0019] It finds a very particular application in the cosmetic treatment, in particular the washing and / or conditioning, of sensitized, weakened and / or damaged keratin fibers, in particular following physical (repeated brushing) and / or chemical treatments, for example coloring, bleaching, perming and / or straightening.

[0020] It is particularly suitable for the cosmetic treatment, in particular the washing and / or conditioning, of keratin fibers loaded with metals, in particular with calcium and / or copper, at levels of at least 100 ppm, preferably at least 200 ppm; in particular loaded with copper, in particular at levels of at least 100 ppm, preferably at least 200 ppm and / or loaded with calcium, in particular at levels of at least 4,000 ppm, preferably at least 10,000 ppm.

[0021] In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the bounds of a range of values ​​are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between" and "ranging from ... to ...".

[0022] Furthermore, the expression "at least one" used in this description is equivalent to the expression "one or more" and may be substituted for it. Amino acid-type compounds

[0023] The composition according to the present invention comprises one or more amino acid-type compounds.

[0024] For the purposes of this invention, an amino acid compound is defined as an organic compound comprising one or more carboxylic acid and / or sulfonic acid functions, and one or more amine functions, the amine function(s) being intra-cyclic, possibly in the form of a salt.

[0025] Preferably, the amino acid compound(s) are chosen from amino acid compounds comprising only one or more carboxylic acid functions (i.e., not comprising a sulfonic acid function) and / or their salts. These compounds are also called carboxylic amino acid compounds and are particularly preferred.

[0026] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more amino acid type compounds selected from the compounds corresponding to formula (I) below and / or their salts.

[0027] Amino acid type compounds can therefore correspond to formula (I):

[0028] COOH H — C R in which p is an integer equal to 1 or 2, it being understood that: - when p = 1, R forms with the nitrogen atom a saturated heterocycle comprising 5 to 8 links, preferably 5 links, this cycle being optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl or (Ci-C4)alkyl; - when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-Ci2)alkyl group, preferably (Ci-C4)alkyl, linear or branched, saturated, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -S-, -NH- or -C(NH)- and / or possibly substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (OH), amino (NH2), -SH, -COOH, -C0NH2 or -NH-C(NH)-NH2.

[0029] Preferably, when p = 1, R forms with the nitrogen atom a saturated heterocycle comprising 5 links, this cycle not being substituted.

[0030] Preferably, p=2.

[0031] Preferably, when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched saturated (Cl-C4)alkyl group, optionally interrupted by an -S- heteroatom and / or optionally substituted by one or two groups selected from hydroxyl, amino or -NH-C(NH)-NH2.

[0032] Preferably, p=2 and R represents a hydrogen atom.

[0033] Amino acid type compounds can also be a salt of compound of formula (I).

[0034] These salts include salts with organic or mineral bases, for example alkali metal salts, such as lithium, sodium, potassium salts; alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium, calcium and zinc salts.

[0035] Amino acid type compounds may be in the form of an optical isomer of L, D or DL ​​configuration, preferably of L configuration.

[0036] By way of examples according to the present invention of compounds in the form of an optical isomer of configuration L, L-proline, L-methionine, L-serine, L-arginine and L-lysine may be cited.

[0037] Preferably, the amino acid type compound(s) according to the invention are chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, their salts (in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals, or zinc) and their mixtures.

[0038] Preferably, the amino acid type compound(s) according to the invention are chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, their salts and mixtures thereof.

[0039] Even better, the amino acid type compound is chosen from glycine, its salts (in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals, or zinc) and their mixtures.

[0040] Examples of glycine salts according to the present invention include sodium glycinate, zinc glycinate, calcium glycinate, magnesium glycinate, manganese glycinate and potassium glycinate, preferably sodium glycinate and potassium glycinate.

[0041] Preferably, the amino acid-type compound is glycine.

[0042] Preferably, the total content of amino acid compound(s) present in the The composition according to the invention is at least 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. This content may range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.7 to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.8 to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0043] In particular, the total content of amino carboxylic acid type compound(s) in the composition according to the invention can range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.7 to 8% by weight, better from 0.8 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0044] Better still, the total content of amino acid type compound(s) selected from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, their salts and mixtures, in the composition according to the invention can range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.7 to 8% by weight, better still from 0.8 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0045] In particular, the total content of amino acid type compound(s) selected from glycine, its salts and mixtures thereof, in the composition according to the invention may range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.7 to 8% by weight, better from 0.8 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0046] Even better, the glycine content in the composition according to the invention can range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.7 to 8% by weight, better from 0.8 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Hydroxy(poly)carboxylic acids

[0047] The composition according to the invention also comprises one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids, comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or their salts.

[0048] These (poly)acids are different from the amino acid type compounds previously described.

[0049] Said (poly)acids comprise at least one COOH group (in acid or salified form); they may comprise several, in particular at least 2 COOH groups (in acid or salified form), better 2 or 3 COOH groups (in acid or salified form).

[0050] They also include at least one OH group, but may include several, in particular 2 to 3 OH groups.

[0051] Preferably, they comprise a total of 4 to 6 carbon atoms and their hydrocarbon chain is saturated and linear.

[0052] Advantageously, the hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids and / or their salts comprise a total of 4 to 6 carbon atoms, 1 to 3 OH groups and 2 to 3 COOH groups (in acidic or salified form).

[0053] Salts of these (poly)acids include salts with organic or mineral bases, for example, alkali metal salts, such as lithium, sodium, and potassium salts; alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium, calcium, and zinc salts. Alkali or alkaline earth metal salts are preferred, and in particular sodium salts.

[0054] Preferably, the hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids or their salts are chosen from among the alpha hydroxy acids and their salts, and in particular from lactic, glycolic, tartaric or citric acids, and their salts, in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals; especially citric acid and / or tartaric acid and their salts, in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals such as sodium citrate and / or sodium tartrate; even better citric acid or its salts, in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals such as sodium citrate.

[0055] Preferably, the total content of hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising a total of 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or their salts, present in the composition according to the invention is at least 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. This content may range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1 to 8% by weight, preferably from 1.5 to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0056] In particular, the total content of hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising a total of 4 to 6 carbon atoms, 1 to 3 OH groups and 2 or 3 COOH groups, or their salts, present in the composition according to the invention can range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1 to 8% by weight, better from 1.5 to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0057] In particular, the total content of hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids selected from lactic, glycolic, tartaric or citric acids, and their salts in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals, in the composition according to the invention can range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1 to 8% by weight, better from 1.5 to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0058] Even better, the content of citric acid and / or its salts in the composition according to the invention can range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1 to 8% by weight, better from 1.5 to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Silicones

[0059] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more silicones, which can in particular be chosen from among amino silicones, non-amino silicones, and mixtures thereof.

[0060] The composition according to the invention can therefore comprise one or more non-amine silicones, which can be solid or liquid, preferably liquid (at 25°C, 1 atm), volatile or non-volatile.

[0061] The non-amine silicones that may be used may be soluble or insoluble in the composition according to the invention; they may be in the form of oil, wax, resin or gum; silicone oils and gums are preferred.

[0062] Silicones are described in detail in particular in Walter NOLL's book "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academy Press.

[0063] Volatile silicones can be chosen from those having a boiling point between 60 and 260°C (at atmospheric pressure), in particular from

[0064] i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising 3 to 7 silicon atoms, preferably 4 to 5, such as

[0065] - octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (D4) and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (D5). On can cite the products marketed under the name "VOLATILE SILICONE 7207" by UNION CARBIDE or "SILBIONE 70045 V 2" by RHODIA, "VOLATILE SILICONE 7158" by UNION CARBIDE, "SILBIONE 70045 V 5" by RHODIA.

[0066] - cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type with structure chemical: I—DD"--------D-D'—। r_____ u CH, 1------------------------------1 CH, 1 1 I with D: — ~ °— with O1 - ” If - O — CH, C,H,?

[0067] One example is "VOLATILE SILICONE FZ 3109" marketed by the company UNION CARBIDE.

[0068] - mixtures of cyclic silicones with organic compounds derived from silicon, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilyl-pentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-l,l'-(hexa-2,2,2',2',3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy) bis-neopentane;

[0069] ii) linear polydialkylsiloxanes having 2 to 9 silicon atoms, which generally have a viscosity less than or equal to 5.10 6m2 / s at 25°C, such as decametethyltetrasiloxane.

[0070] Other silicones falling within this class are described in the article published in Cosmetics and toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, p. 27-32 - TODD & BYERS "Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics"; one can cite the product marketed under the name "SH 200" by the company TORAY SILICONE.

[0071] Among non-volatile silicones, one can cite, alone or in mixtures, polydialkylsiloxanes and in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS or dimethicone), poly-diarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, as well as that non-amine organopolysiloxanes (or organomodified polysiloxanes, or organomodified silicones) are polysiloxanes having in their structure one or more non-amine organofunctional groups, generally fixed via a hydrocarbon group, and preferably chosen from aryl groups, alkoxy groups and polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated groups.

[0072] Organomodified silicones may be polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized with the organofunctional groups mentioned above. Polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from among polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes.

[0073] Among organomodified silicones, organopolysiloxanes comprising:

[0074] - polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene groups comprising even currently alkyl groups in C6-C24 such as dimethicone-copolyols, and in particular those marketed by DOW CORNING under the name DC 1248 or SILWET® L 722, L 7500, L 77, L 711 oils from UNION CARBIDE; or alkyl(Ci2)-methicone-copolyols, and in particular those marketed by DOW CORNING under the name Q2-5200;

[0075] - thiol groups, such as products marketed under the names “GP 72 A” and “GP 71” from GENESEE;

[0076] - alkoxylated groups, such as the product marketed under the name "SILICONE COPOLYMER F-755" by SWS SILICONES and ABIL WAX® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by GOLDSCHMIDT;

[0077] - hydroxylated groups, such as polyorganosiloxanes with a hy- function droxyalkyl;

[0078] - acyloxyalkyl groups such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in the US patent-A-4957732.

[0079] - anionic groups of the carboxylic acid type, as for example described in EP186507, or of the alkyl-carboxylic type such as the product X-22-3701E from the company SHIN-ETSU; or of the 2-hydroxyalkylsulfonate or 2-hydroxyalkylthiosulfate type, such as the products marketed by the company GOLDSCHMIDT under the names "ABIL® S201" and "ABIL® S255".

[0080] Silicones can also be chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which the main examples are polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl terminal groups (CTFA: dimethicone). The following commercial products are examples of these polydialkylsiloxanes:

[0081] - SILBIONE® oils of series 47 and 70 047 or MIRASIL® commercial oils specialized by RHODIA such as, for example, oil 70 047 V 500 000;

[0082] - the oils of the MIRASIL® series marketed by the company RHODIA;

[0083] - oils from the 200 series of DOW CORNING such as DC200 having viscosity 60,000 mm2 / s;

[0084] - VISCASIL® oils from GENERAL ELECTRIC and certain oils from the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from GENERAL ELECTRIC.

[0085] We can also mention polydimethylsiloxanes with terminal dimethylsilanol groups (CTFA: dimethiconol) such as the oils of the 48 series of the RHODIA company.

[0086] In this class of polydialkylsiloxanes, we can also mention the products marketed under the names "ABIL WAX® 9800 and 9801" by the company GOLDSCHMIDT which are polydialkyl (C1-C20) siloxanes.

[0087] Products more particularly usable according to the invention are mixtures such as:

[0088] - mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane hydroxylated at the end of chain, or dimethiconol (CTFA) and a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane also called cyclomethicone (CTFA) such as the product Q2-1401 marketed by the DOW CORNING company.

[0089] Polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from among polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes with viscosities ranging from 1.105 to 5.10 2m2 / s at 25°C.

[0090] Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, we can mention the products marketed under the following names:

[0091] - SILBIONE® oils from the 70 641 series of RHODIA;

[0092] - the oils of the RHODORSIL® 70 633 and 763 series from RHODIA;

[0093] - DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRAD FLUID oil from DOW CORNING;

[0094] - silicones from the PK series of BAYER such as product PK20;

[0095] - silicones from the PN, PH series of BAYER such as the PN1000 and PH1000 products

[0096] - certain oils from the SF series of GENERAL ELECTRIC such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, SF 1265.

[0097] The non-amine silicones most particularly preferred according to the invention are the trimethylsiloxanes with terminal groups (CTFA: dimethicone).

[0098] The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more amino silicones.

[0099] Aminated silicone means any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary, tertiary amine or one quaternary ammonium group.

[0100] Amino silicones that can be used according to the present invention may be volatile or non-volatile, cyclic, linear or branched, and preferably have a viscosity ranging from 5*106 to 2.5 m2 / s at 25°C, for example from 1*105 to 1 m2 / s.

[0101] Preferably, the amino silicone(s) are chosen from, alone or in mixtures, the following compounds:

[0102] A) polysiloxanes corresponding to formula (I): CH, GH 1 CH. V v* (CH A,. xx» vXX A MH (CHA.

[0103] in which x' and y' are integers such that the average molecular mass by weight (Mw) is between 5000 and 500000 g / mol;

[0104] B) Amino silicones conforming to formula (II):

[0105] R'aG3a-Si(OSiG2)n-(OSiGbR'2b)mO-SiG3a-R'a (II)

[0106] in which:

[0107] - G, identical or different, designates a hydrogen atom, a phenyl group, OH, alkyl in CrC8, for example methyl or alkoxy in CrC8, for example methoxy, - a, a' identical or different, denote 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0, provided that at least one of a or a' is equal to zero,

[0108] - b denotes 0 or 1, in particular 1,

[0109] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, in particular from 50 to 150, where n can represent a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149, and m can represent a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; and

[0110] - R', identical or different, denotes a monovalent radical of formula -CqH2qL in where q is a number from 2 to 8, and L is an amine group possibly quatemized chosen from the groups: -NR”-QN(R”)2, -N(R”)2, -N+(R”)3 A, -N+ H(R”)2 A, -N+H2(R”) A, -NR”-Q-N+(R”)H2 A, -NR”-Q-N+(R”)2H A and -NR”-QN+(R”)3 A, in which R”, identical or different, denotes hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a monovalent saturated hydrocarbon radical, for example a Ci-C20 alkyl radical; Q denotes a group of formula CrH2r, linear or branched, r being an integer from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A represents a cosmetically acceptable anion, in particular a halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.

[0111] Preferably, the amino silicones of formula (II) may be selected from:

[0112] (i) "trimethylsilylamodimethicone" silicones conforming to formula (III): -J (m)

[0113] in which m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, preferably from 20 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 600, better from 50 to 150; n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10.

[0114] (ii) silicones of the following formula (IV):

[0115] in which:

[0116] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200; n denoting a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 249 and more particularly from 125 to 175 and m denoting a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10, more particularly from 1 to 5; and

[0117] - Ri, R2, R3, whether identical or different, represent a hydroxy or alkoxy radical in Ci -C4, at least one of the radicals Ri to R3 designating an alkoxy radical.

[0118] Preferably the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.

[0119] The hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio is preferably from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more particularly is equal to 0.3:1.

[0120] The average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of these silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1000000 g / mol, more particularly from 3500 to 200000 g / mol.

[0121] (iii) silicones of the following formula (V):

[0122] in which:

[0123] - p and q are numbers such that the sum (p + q) varies from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 350, and more particularly from 150 to 250; p denoting a number from 0 to 999, and in particular from 49 to 349, and more particularly from 159 to 239, and q denoting a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10, and more particularly from 1 to 5; and

[0124] - Rb R2, different, represent a hydroxy or alkoxy radical in Ci-C4, one at minus the Ri or R2 radicals designating an alkoxy radical.

[0125] Preferably the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.

[0126] The hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio generally ranges from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1 and preferably from 1:0.9 to 1:1 and more particularly is equal to 1:0.95.

[0127] The average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of silicone is preferably from 2000 to 200000 g / mol, more preferably from 5000 to 100000 g / mol and in particular from 10000 to 50000 g / mol.

[0128] Commercial products containing structural (IV) or (V) silicones may include in their composition one or more other amino silicones with a structure different from the (IV) or (V) formulas. A product containing structural (IV) amino silicones is offered by WACKER under the name BELSIL® ADM 652. A product containing structural (V) amino silicones is offered by WACKER under the name Fluid WR 1300®. Another product containing structural (XIV) amino silicones is offered by WACKER under the name Belsil ADM LOG 1®.

[0129] When these amino silicones are used, a particularly interesting embodiment is their use as an oil-in-water emulsion. The oil-in-water emulsion may comprise one or more surfactants. The surfactants may be of any nature, but preferably cationic and / or nonionic. The average number size of the silicone particles in the emulsion generally ranges from 3 nm to 500 nanometers. Preferably, particularly as amino silicones of formula (V), microemulsions are used with an average particle size ranging from 5 nm to 60 nm (inclusive) and more particularly from 10 nm to 50 nm (inclusive). Thus, according to the invention, microemulsions of Aminated silicone of formula (V) offered under the names FINISH CT 96 E® or SLM 28020® by the company WACKER.

[0130] (iv) silicones of the following formula (VI):

[0131] in which:

[0132] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in by specific from 50 to 150, n designating a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m designating a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; and

[0133] - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably linear.

[0134] The average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1000000 g / mol and more particularly from 3500 to 200000 g / mol. One silicone that meets this formula is, for example, DOW CORNING's XIAMETER MEM 8299 EMULSION.

[0135] (v) silicones of the following formula (VII):

[0136] in which:

[0137] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in by specific from 50 to 150, n can designate a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m can designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; and

[0138] - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably branched.

[0139] The average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 500 to 1,000,000 g / mol and more particularly from 1,000 to 200,000 g / mol. One silicone that meets this formula is, for example, DOW CORNING's DC2-8566 Amino Fluid.

[0140] C) Amino silicones conforming to formula (VIII):

[0141] in which:

[0142] - R5 represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 atoms of carbon, and in particular an alkyl radical in Ci-Ci8, or alkenyl in C2-Ci8, for example methyl;

[0143] - R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular an alkylene radical in CrCi8 or a divalent alkyleneoxy radical in CrCi8, for example in CrC8 linked to Si by a SiC bond;

[0144] - Q is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride or an acid salt organic, in particular acetate;

[0145] - r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 20, in particular from 2 to 8;

[0146] and - s represents an average statistical value ranging from 20 to 200, in particular from 20 to 50.

[0147] D) quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (IX) OH' P Ft's 1 A- ' ' A-:- A' .-v<. A.. -, i ... ,, J .To -, A* (IX)

[0148] in which:

[0149] - R7, identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular an alkyl radical in CrCi8, an alkenyl radical in C2-Ci8 or a ring comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl;

[0150] - R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular an alkylene radical in CrCi8 or a divalent alkyleneoxy radical in CrCi8, for example in CrC8 linked to Si by a SiC bond;

[0151] - R8, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a radical hy monovalent drocarbon having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular an alkyl radical in CrCi8, an alkenyl radical in C2-Ci8, a -R6-NHCOR7 radical;

[0152] - X is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride or an acid salt organic, in particular acetate; and

[0153] - r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 200, in particular from 5 to 100. These silicones are described for example in application EP-A-0530974; in particular, the silicone with INCI name QUATERNIUM 80 can be mentioned.

[0154] Silicones falling within this class are the silicones marketed by the company GOLDSCHMIDT under the names AB IL QU AT 3270, AB IL QU AT 3272, ABIL QUAT 3474.

[0155] E) Amino silicones of formula (X): (X)

[0156] in which:

[0157] - Ri, R2, R3 and R4, whether identical or different, denote a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a phenyl group,

[0158] - R5 designates a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group,

[0159] - n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5,

[0160] - m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and

[0161] - x is chosen such that the amine index varies from 0.01 to 1 meq / g;

[0162] F) multiblock polyoxyalkylened amine silicones, of type (AB)n, A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylened block comprising at least one amine group.

[0163] Said silicones are preferably made up of repeating units of the following general formulas:

[0164] [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2-RN(R”)-R'-O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b-R'-N(H)-R-] or else

[0165] [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2-RN(R' ' )-R' -O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b-] in which:

[0166] - a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably from 5 to 200, plus particularly ranging from 10 to 100;

[0167] - b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably from 4 to 100, plus particularly between 5 and 30;

[0168] - x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10000, more particularly from 10 to 5000;

[0169] - R' ' is a hydrogen atom or a methyl;

[0170] - R, identical or different, represent a divalent hydrocarbon radical in C2-Ci2, linear or branched, possibly comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R, identical or different, denote an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; preferably R denotes a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; and

[0171] - R', identical or different, represent a divalent hydrocarbon radical in C2-C 12, linear or branched, possibly comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R', identical or different, denote an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; preferably R' denote -CH(CH3)-CH2-.

[0172] The siloxane blocks preferably represent 50 and 95% by moles of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly 70 to 85% by moles.

[0173] The amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq / g of copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2.

[0174] The average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of silicone is preferably between 5000 and 1000000 g / mol, more particularly between 10000 and 200000 g / mol. Examples include silicones marketed under the names Silsoft A-843 or Silsoft A+ by Momentive.

[0175] G) Amino silicones of formulas (XI) and (XII): W r (0¾ NH, (XI)

[0176] in which:

[0177] - R, R' and R”, identical or different, designate a C1-C4 alkyl group or a hydroxyl group,

[0178] - A denotes a C3 alkylene radical; and

[0179] - m and n are numbers such that the average molecular mass in weight of the The compound value is between 5000 and 500000.

[0180] in which:

[0181] - x and y are numbers from 1 to 5000; preferably x goes from 10 to 2000, and more preferably from 100 to 1000; preferably from 1 to 100;

[0182] - Ri and R2, identical or different, preferably identical, designate a group alkyl, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; and

[0183] - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms.

[0184] Preferably, A comprises from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, more preferably 4 carbon atoms; preferably A is branched. We can mention in particular the following divalent groups: -CH2CH2CH2- and -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-.

[0185] Preferably, Ri and R2 are independent saturated linear alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular 12 to 20 carbon atoms; particular examples include dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; and preferably, Ri and R2, identical or different, are selected from the hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.

[0186] Preferably, in the silicone of formula (XII), there is:

[0187] - x ranging from 10 to 2,000, and in particular from 100 to 1,000;

[0188] - ranging from 1 to 100;

[0189] - A comprising from 3 to 6 carbon atoms and in particular 4 carbon atoms; of Preferably, A is branched; and more particularly, A is chosen from the following divalent groups: -CH2CH2CH2 and -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-; and

[0190] - Ri and R2 being independently saturated linear alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular 12 to 20 carbon atoms; chosen especially from the dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups;

[0191]

[0192] Preferably, Ri and R2, identical or different, being chosen from the hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups. A preferred silicone formulation (XII) is bis-cetearylamodimethicone. A notable example is the amino silicone sold under the name SILSOFT AX by Momentive. H) polysiloxanes, and in particular polydimethylsiloxanes, comprising primary amine groups at one end of the chain or on the side chains, such as those of formula (XIV), (XV) or (XVI): (XV) MH.,

[0193]

[0194]

[0195]

[0196]

[0197] In formula (XIV), the values ​​of n and m are such that the average molecular mass by weight of the amino silicon is between 1000 and 55000. Examples of formula (XIV) amino silicones include products sold under the names AMS-132, AMS-152, AMS-162, AMS-163, AMS-191 and AMS-1203 by Gelest and KF-8015 by Shin Etsu. In formula (XV), the value of n is such that the average molecular mass by weight of the amino silicon is between 500 and 3000. As an example of formula (XV) amine silicones, we can cite the products sold under the names MCR-A11 and MCR-A12 by the company Gelest. In formula (XVI), the values ​​of n and m are such that the average molecular mass by weight of the amino silicon is between 500 and 50000. Examples of amino silicones of formula (XVI) include aminopropyl phenyl trimethicone sold under the name DC 2-2078 Fluid by Dow Corning.

[0198] The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also include, as silicone, an amino silicone corresponding to the formula (XVIII) below: -- (xvm) ] HCL ___ / \| I / \ I HO— / '—OH |

[0199] in which:

[0200] - n is a number between 1 and 1000, preferably between 10 and 500, better still between 25 and 100, even better between 50 and 80;

[0201] - m is a number between 1 and 200, preferably between 1 and 100, better between 1 and 10, and even better, between 1 and 5;

[0202] - R'”, identical or different, preferably identical, are alkyl radicals linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms; said radicals optionally being substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups OH;

[0203] - R' is a linear or branched divalent alkylene radical, having from 1 to 6 atoms of carbon, specifically 2 to 5 carbon atoms;

[0204] - R' ' is a linear or branched divalent alkylene radical, having from 1 to 6 atoms of carbon, specifically from 1 to 5 carbon atoms.

[0205] Preferably, the identical or different R's are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms; in particular dodecyl, C13, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl radicals may be mentioned; preferably the identical or different Rs are chosen from among the saturated linear alkyl radicals having 12 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular in C13, C14, Cl5, alone or in mixture, and preferably represent a mixture of C13, C14 and C15.

[0206] Preferably, the R's” are identical.

[0207] Preferably, R' is a linear or branched divalent alkylene radical, preferably branched, comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular 2 to 5 carbon atoms; in particular a -CH2-CH2-CH2-, -CH2-CH(CH3)-CH2- or radical -CH2-CH2-CH(CH3)-.

[0208] Preferably, R'' is a linear alkylene divalent radical comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular 1 to 4 carbon atoms; in particular a -CH2-CH2- radical.

[0209] Preferably, the composition may comprise one or more silicones of formula (XVIII) in which:

[0210] - n is a number between 50 and 80;

[0211] - m is a number between 1 and 5;

[0212] - R'”, identical, are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising 12 to 18 carbon atoms;

[0213] - R' is a divalent alkylene radical having 2 to 5 carbon atoms,

[0214] - R” is a linear alkylene divalent radical having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

[0215] Even better, the composition may include one or more formula silicones (XVIII) in which:

[0216] - n is a number between 50 and 80;

[0217] - m is a number between 1 and 5;

[0218] - R'”, identical, are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising 13 to 15 carbon atoms;

[0219] - R' is a radical -(CH2)3-, -CH2-CH(CH3)-CH2- or -CH2-CH2-CH(CH3)-, and

[0220] - R' ' is a radical -(CH2)2-.

[0221] A particularly preferred silicone of formula (XVIII) is Bis(C13-15 alkoxy) PG Amodimethicone (INCI name). One example is the silicone marketed by DOW under the name "DOWSIL 8500 Conditioning agent".

[0222] Preferably, the amine silicone(s) are chosen from, alone or in mixture,

[0223] - amine silicones of formula (II), preferably those in which G denotes an alkyl in C1-C8 and a=a'=0; a silicone of formula (II) particularly preferred being aminopropyldimethicone, such as that marketed under the name X-22-9686 by SHIN ETSU;

[0224] - quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (IX) above;

[0225] - the amino silicones of formula (XVIII) above, in particular those in where n is a number between 50 and 80; m is a number between 1 and 5; R”', identical, are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising 13 to 15 carbon atoms; R' is a radical -(CH2)3-, -CH2-CH(CH3)-CH2- or -CH2-CH2-CH(CH3)-, and R” is a radical -(CH2)2-,

[0226] Advantageously, the composition according to the present invention may comprise the silicone(s) in a total content preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.6 to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.7 to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0227] Advantageously, the composition according to the present invention may comprise the amino silicone(s) in a total content preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.6 to 3% by weight, and even better from 0.7 to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Cationic surfactants

[0228] The composition according to the invention may optionally include one or more cationic surfactants.

[0229] Said cationic surfactants are non-siliconized, that is to say they do not contain a Si-O group.

[0230] They are preferably chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, possibly polyoxyalkylated, or their salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0231] The composition may comprise one or more cationic surfactants selected from, alone or in mixture, the following compounds which are quaternary ammonium salts:

[0232] - compounds corresponding to the following general formula (II): in which:

[0233] X is an anion in particular selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)- or alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates;

[0234] the groups Ri to R4, which may be identical or different, represent an aliphatic group, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups Ri to R4 designating an aliphatic group, linear or branched, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0235] Aliphatic groups may include heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, and halogens. Aliphatic groups are, for example, selected from CrC3O alkyl groups, CrC3O alkoxy groups, C2-C6 polyoxyalkylene groups, CrC3O alkylamide groups, C2-C6 alkyl(Ci2-C22)amidoalkyl groups, C2-C6 alkyl(Ci2-C22)acetate groups, and C1-C3O hydroxyalkyl groups.

[0236] Among quaternary ammonium salts of formula (II), tetraal-kylammonium salts such as dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts are preferred, in which the alkyl group comprises approximately 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium salts, distea- ryldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearylammonium; as well as palmitylamide-propyltrimethylammonium salts, stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, stearamidopropyldimethylcetearylammonium salts, or stearamidopropyldimethyl-(myristylacetate)-ammonium salts such as those marketed under the name CERAPHYL® 70 by the company VAN DYK.

[0237] In particular, the chloride, bromide or methylsulfate salts of these compounds are preferred.

[0238] - quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, such as those of formula (III): ~ R “p (III) MRg)—CO—Rj \ / 'R. ] C--C ' Ha Ha; in which R5 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R6 represents a hydrogen atom, a Ci-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R7 represents a Ci-C4 alkyl group, R8 represents a hydrogen atom, a CrC4 alkyl group, X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkylsulfates, alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulfonates whose alkyl and aryl groups preferably comprise 1 to 20 carbon atoms and 6 to 30 carbon atoms respectively.

[0239] Preferably, R5 and R6 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R7 denotes a methyl group, R8 denotes a hydrogen atom.

[0240] Such a product is marketed for example under the name REWOQUAT® W 75 by the company REWO.

[0241] - quaternary di- or tri-ammonium salts in particular of formula (IV): in which

[0242] R9 designates an alkyl radical comprising approximately 16 to 30 carbon atoms, possibly hydroxylated and / or possibly interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms,

[0243] Rio is selected from hydrogen or an alkyl radical comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a (R9a)(R10a)(Riia)N-(CH2)3 group, with R9a, RiOa, Riia, Ru, R12, Rb and R14, identical or different, selected from hydrogen or an alkyl radical comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfonates and alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate.

[0244] Such compounds are for example Finquat CT-P offered by FINETEX (Quaternium 89), Finquat CT offered by FINETEX (Quaternium 75).

[0245] - quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, such as those of the following formula (V): R w (V) X in which:

[0246] R15 is selected from the C1-C6 alkyl groups and the hydroxyalkyl or di- groups hydroxyalkyls in Ci-C6;

[0247] Rie is selected from the group R19-C(O)-; the R2o groups which are Ci-C22 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, the hydrogen atom,

[0248] Ri8 is selected from the group R21-C(O)-; the R22 groups which are Ci-C6 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; the hydrogen atom;

[0249] R17, R[9 and R2b, identical or different, are chosen from the hydrocarbon groups in C7-C2i, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated;

[0250] r, s and t, identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6;

[0251] y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10;

[0252] x and z, identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10;

[0253] X is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic;

[0254] provided that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R[6 denotes R20 and that when z is 0 then R[8 denotes R22.

[0255] The alkyl groups R[5] can be linear or branched, and more particularly linear. Preferably, R[5] designates a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.

[0256] Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is worth from 1 to 10.

[0257] When R[6 is a hydrocarbon R20 group, it can be long and have from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and have from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0258] When R[8 is a hydrocarbon R22 group, it preferably has 1 to 3 atoms of carbon.

[0259] Advantageously, Rn, Ri9 and R2i, identical or different, are chosen from among the Cn-C2i hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and more particularly from the Cn-C2i alkyl and alkenyl groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

[0260] Preferably, x and z, whether identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1.

[0261] Advantageously, y is equal to 1.

[0262] Preferably, r, s and t, whether identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.

[0263] Anion X is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide, or iodide) or an alkyl sulfate, more particularly methyl sulfate. However, methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate, or any other ammonium-compatible anion with an ester function may be used. Anion X is even more particularly chloride or methyl sulfate.

[0264] In particular, ammonium salts of formula (V) in which Ri5 designates a methyl or ethyl group, x and y are equal to 1; z is equal to 0 or 1; r, s and t are equal to 2; Ri6 is chosen from the R19-C(O)- group, the methyl, ethyl or hydrocarbon groups in Ci4-C22, the hydrogen atom; Ri8 is chosen from the group R21-C(O)- and the hydrogen atom; Rn, R19 and R2i, identical or different, are chosen from C13-C17 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and preferably from C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

[0265] Advantageously, hydrocarbon groups are linear.

[0266] Examples include compounds of formula (V) such as salts (in particular chloride or methyl sulfate) of diacyloxyethyl dimethylammonium, diacyloxyethyl hydroxyethyl methylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl dihydroxyethyl methylammonium, triacyloxyethyl methylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl hydroxyethyl dimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably have 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are more particularly derived from a vegetable oil such as palm or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these may be identical or different.

[0267] These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine, or alkyldiisopropanolamine, optionally oxyalkylated with C10-C30 fatty acids or mixtures of C10-C30 fatty acids of vegetable or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (methyl or ethyl preferably), a dialkyl sulfate (methyl or ethyl preferably), methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, chlorohydrin of glycol or glycerol.

[0268] Such compounds are marketed for example under the names DEHYQUART® by the company HENKEL, STEPANQUAT® by the company STEPAN, NOXAMIUM® by the company CECA, REWOQUAT® WE 18 by the company REWO-WITCO.

[0269] The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium mono-, di- and triester salts with a majority by weight of diester salts.

[0270] Ammonium salts containing at least one ester function described in US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180 patents can also be used.

[0271] The behenoylhydroxypropyl-trimethylammonium chloride offered by KAO under the name Quatarmin BTC 131 can be used.

[0272] Preferably ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.

[0273] Among the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one usable ester function, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethyl-methyl-lammonium salts are preferred.

[0274] The term “fatty amines” means a compound comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, possibly (poly)oxyalkylated, or their salts and comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain, preferably C8-C30.

[0275] Preferably, the useful fatty amines according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylated.

[0276] Fatty amines include amidoamines. The amidoamines according to the invention can be selected from fatty amidoamines, the fatty chain being able to be borne by the amine group or by the amido group.

[0277] Amidoamine is understood to mean a compound comprising at least one amide function and at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function.

[0278] Fatty amidoamine is understood to be an amidoamine comprising, in general, at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain. Preferably, the fatty amidoamines useful according to the invention are not quaternized.

[0279] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylated.

[0280] Among the useful fatty amidoamines according to the invention, we can mention the amidoamines of the following formula (VI): RCONHR”N(R')2(VI) in which: - R represents a monovalent linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, having from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched C5-C29 alkyl radical, preferably C7-C23, or a linear or branched C5-C29 alkenyl radical, preferably C7-C23; - R” represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical having fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms, better still, 3 carbon atoms; and - R', identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, preferably a methyl radical.

[0281] Fatty amidoamines of formula (VI) are, for example, selected from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, in particular that marketed by INOLEX CHEMICAL COMPANY under the name LEXAMINE S13, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamindopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, the palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof.

[0282] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are selected from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof.

[0283] The cationic surfactant(s) are preferably chosen from those of formula (II), those of formula (V), those of formula (VI), and mixtures thereof; better from those of formula (II) and / or formula (VI); even better from those of formula (II).

[0284] Preferably, the cationic surfactant(s) may be selected from salts such as chlorides, bromides or methosulfates, of tetraalkylammonium such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group comprises about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distea-ryldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts; dipalmitoylethyl-hydroxyethylmethylammonium salts such as dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethyl-methylammonium methosulfate; and mixtures thereof.

[0285] Even more preferably, they are chosen from cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, dipalmi-toylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.

[0286] When present, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) in the composition according to the invention is preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.2 to 8% by weight, better from 0.3 to 7% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0287] In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the weight ratio between the total content of cationic surfactant(s) and the total content of amino acid-type compounds is greater than or equal to 1. Cationic polymers

[0288] The composition according to the invention may optionally include one or more cationic polymers.

[0289] The term "cationic polymer" means any non-siliconized polymer (not containing silicon atoms) containing cationic groups and / or ionizable groups into cationic groups, and not containing anionic groups and / or ionizable groups into anionic groups.

[0290] The cationic polymers that may be used preferably have a cationic charge density less than or equal to 5 milliequivalents / gram (meq / g), better less than or equal to 4 meq / g.

[0291] The cationic charge density of a polymer corresponds to the number of moles of cationic charge per unit mass of polymer under conditions where the polymer is fully ionized. It can be determined by calculation if the polymer structure is known, that is, the structure of the monomers constituting the polymer and their molar or weight proportions. It can also be determined experimentally by the Kjeldahl method.

[0292] The cationic polymers that may be used preferably have a weight average molar mass (Mw) between approximately 500 and 5.106, preferably between approximately 103 and 3.106.

[0293] The cationic polymers that may be used are preferably non-associative.

[0294] Among the cationic polymers that could be used, the following may be mentioned:

[0295] (1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic esters or amides or methacrylics and containing at least one of the following formula motifs:

[0296] in which:

[0297] - R3, identical or different, designates a hydrogen atony or a CH3 radical;

[0298] - A, identical or different, represent a divalent alkyl group, linear or branched, of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms;

[0299] - R4, R5, R6, identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical; preferably an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

[0300] - RI and R2, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group alkyl having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl or ethyl;

[0301] - X designates an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid such as a me- anion thosulfate or a halide such as chloride or bromide.

[0302] The copolymers of family (1) may further contain one or more motifs derived from comonomers that may be selected from the family of acrylamides, metha-crylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by lower alkyls (C1-C4), esters of acrylic or metha-crylic acids, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters.

[0303] Among these copolymers of family (1), we can mention:

[0304] - copolymers of acrylamide and quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide, such as that sold under the name HERCOFLOC by the company HERCULES,

[0305] - acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethyl chloride copolymers Ammonium, such as those sold under the name BINA QU AT P 100 by the company CIBA GEIGY,

[0306] - the copolymer of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethyl- Ammonium, such as that sold under the name RETEN by the company HERCULES,

[0307] - vinylpyrrolidone / acrylate or dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate copolymers, quantified or not, such as products sold under the name "GAFQUAT" by the company ISP such as "GAFQUAT 734" or "GAFQUAT 755" or products named "COPOLYMER 845, 958 and 937";

[0308] - dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam / vinyl- terpolymers pyrrolidone, such as the product sold under the name GAFFIX VC 713 by the company ISP,

[0309] - vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers, such as those marketed under the name STYLEZE CC 10 by ISP;

[0310] - the vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide copolymers qua- ternized, such as the product sold under the name "GAFQUAT HS 100" by the company ISP,

[0311] - polymers, preferably crosslinked, of methacryloyloxyalkyl(Cl-C4) salts trialkyl(Cl-C4)ammonium such as polymers obtained by homopolymerization of quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with methyl chloride, the homo- or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylene bisacrylamide. A crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20 / 80 by weight) can be used in the form of a dispersion comprising 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is marketed under the name "SALCARE® SC 92" by CIBA. Alternatively, a crosslinked homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride comprising about 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester can be used.These dispersions are marketed under the names "SALCARE® SC 95" and "SALCARE® SC 96" by the company CIBA.

[0312] (2) cationic polysaccharides, in particular celluloses and ga- gums cationic lactomannans.

[0313] Among cationic polysaccharides, particular examples include cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers, cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and cationic galactomannan gums.

[0314] Cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups are described in particular in FR1492597; they are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose having reacted with an epoxide substituted by a trimethylammonium group.

[0315] We can mention in particular the polymers marketed under the name "UCARE POLYMER JR" (JR 400 LT, JR 125, JR 30M) or "LR" (LR 400, LR 30M) by the AMERCHOL Company.

[0316] Cationic cellulose copolymers and cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described, in particular, in US patent 4131576; examples include hydroxyalkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl-, or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted, in particular, with a salt of methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium, or dimethyldiallylammonium. Quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses, crosslinked or not, are particularly noteworthy, the quaternizing agent being, in particular, diallyldimethylammonium chloride; and, in particular, hydroxyethyl cellulose hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium.

[0317] Among the commercial products meeting this definition, we can cite the products sold under the name "Celquat L 200" and "Celquat H 100" by the National Starch Company.

[0318] As a particularly preferred cationic cellulose, one can notably mention the polymer with the INCI name POLYQUATERNIUM-10.

[0319] Cationic galactomannan gums are described in particular in US patents 3589578 and 4031307; examples include cationic guar gums, especially those containing trialkylammonium cationic groups, particularly trimethylammonium. Examples include guar gums modified with a salt (for example, a chloride) of 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium.

[0320] Preferably, 2 to 30% by number of the hydroxyl groups of the guar gums bear trialkylammonium cationic groups. Even more preferably, 5 to 20% of the hydroxyl groups of these guar gums are branched by trialkylammonium cationic groups. Among these trialkylammonium groups, trimethylammonium and triethylammonium groups are particularly noteworthy. Even more preferably, these groups represent 5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the modified guar gum. According to the invention, guar gums modified with 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium chloride can be used.

[0321] Examples include products with the INCI names "HYDRXYPROPYL GUAR HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE" and "GUAR HYDROXYPROPYL-TRIMONIUM CHLORIDE". Such products are marketed, in particular, under the names JAGUAR C13S, JAGUAR C15, JAGUAR C17 or JAGUAR C162 by the company Solvay.

[0322] Among the cationic polysaccharides that may be used, cationic derivatives of cassia gum may also be mentioned, in particular those containing quaternary ammonium groups; in particular, the product with the INCI name "CASSIA HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE" may be mentioned.

[0323] (3) polymers consisting of piperazinyl motifs and alkylene divalent radicals or linear or branched chain hydroxyalkylene, possibly interrupted by oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen atoms or by aromatic or heterocyclic rings, as well as the oxidation and / or quaternization products of these polymers.

[0324] (4) water-soluble polyaminoamides, prepared in particular by polycon densification of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides may be crosslinked by an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, an alkyl bis-halide or by an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a reactive bifunctional compound with respect to a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, an alkyl bis-halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mole per amine group of the poly-aminoamide; These polyaminoamides can be alkylated or, if they contain one or more tertiary amine functions, quaternized.

[0325] (5) polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkoylenes Polyamines are derived from polycarboxylic acids followed by alkoxylation with bifunctional agents. An example is the adipic acid-diacoylaminohydroxyalcoyldialoylene triamine polymer, in which the alkyl group has 1 to 4 carbon atoms and is preferably methyl, ethyl, or propyl. Among these derivatives, the adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl / diethylene triamine polymers sold under the name "Cartaretine F, F4, or F8" by Sandoz are particularly noteworthy.

[0326] (6) polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid selected from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; the molar ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid preferably being between 0.8:1 and 1.4:1; the resulting polyaminoamide being made to react with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide preferably being between 0.5:1 and 1.8:1. Polymers of this type are in particular marketed under the name "Hercosett 57" by Hercules Inc. or under the name "PD 170" or "Delsette 101" by Hercules in the case of the adipic acid / epoxypropyl / diethylenetriamine copolymer.

[0327] (7) alkyl diallyl amine or dialkyl diallyl ammonium cyclopolymers such as homopolymers or copolymers having as their main chain constituent motifs corresponding to formulas (I) or (II):

[0328] in which

[0329] - k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1;

[0330] - R12 designates a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical;

[0331] - RIO and RI 1, independently of each other, designate an alkyl group in C1-C6, a C1-C5 hydroxyalkyl group, a C1-C4 amidoalkyl group; or RIO and RI 1 may jointly designate, with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a heterocyclic group such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; RIO and RI 1, independently of each other, preferably designate a C1-C4 alkyl group;

[0332] - Y is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate.

[0333] We can cite more particularly the homopolymer of salts (for example chloride) of dimethyldiallylammonium (INCI name POLYQUATERNIUM-6) for example sold under the name "MERQUAT 100" by the company NALCO, and the copolymers of salts (for example chloride) of diallyldimethylammonium and acrylamide (INCI name POLYQUATERNIUM-7), marketed in particular under the name "MERQUAT 550" or "MERQUAT 7SPR".

[0334] (8) quaternary diammonium polymers comprising recurring motifs of formula: ^3 --N+-A. — — OH) I! iv Rux-

[0335] in which:

[0336] - R13, R14, R15 and R16, whether identical or different, represent radicals ali phatic, alicyclic, or arylaliphatic compounds comprising 1 to 20 carbon atoms or hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals in Cl-Cl2,

[0337] or R13, R14, R15 and R16, together or separately, together with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, form heterocycles possibly comprising a second heteroatom other than nitrogen

[0338] or R13, R14, R15 and R16 represent a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical substituted by a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-O-R17-D or -CO-NH-R17-D group where R17 is an alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group;

[0339] - Al and B1 represent divalent polymethylene groups comprising 2 to 20 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, bonded to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more oxygen, sulfur, or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and

[0340] - X designates an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid;

[0341] it being understood that Al,R13 andR15 can form with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached a piperazine ring;

[0342] Furthermore, if Al designates a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, B1 can also designate a group (CH2)n-CO-D-OC-(CH2)p-, with n and p, identical or different, being integers ranging from 2 to 20, and D denoting:

[0343] a) a glycol remnant of formula -OZO-, where Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulas: -(CH2CH2O)x-CH2CH2- and -[CH2CH(CH3)O]y-CH2CH(CH3)- where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization;

[0344] b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative;

[0345] c) a bis-primary diamine remnant of formula -NH-Y-NH- where Y denotes a radical linear or branched hydrocarbon, or the divalent radical -CH2-CH2-SS-CH2-CH2-;

[0346] d) a ureylene group of formula -NH-CO-NH- .

[0347] Preferably, X is an anion such as chloride or bromide. These polymers have a number-average molar mass (Mn) generally between 1000 and 100000.

[0348] One can cite in particular polymers which are made up of recurring motifs conforming to the formula: RR naked -N-(CHA — W) । - | v- ' ■

[0349] in which RI, R2, R3 and R4, identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 20, and X- is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.

[0350] A particularly preferred compound of formula (IV) is that for which RI, R2, R3 and R4 represent a methyl radical, n=3, p=6 and X = Cl, named Hexadi-methrine chloride according to INCI nomenclature (CTFA).

[0351] (9) quaternary polyammonium polymers comprising formula motifs (V): Ra — N+ - (CH A- NH- CO - (CH A - CO -NH • (CHA - N+ - A — X-। ' ■ ■ ^'9 -■ zo ,

[0352] in which:

[0353] - R18, R19, R20 and R21, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, [3-hydroxyethyl, [3-hydroxypropyl or -CH2CH2(OCH2CH2)pOH radical, where p is equal to 0 or an integer between 1 and 6, provided that R18, R19, R20 and R21 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom,

[0354] - r and s, whether identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6,

[0355] - q is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 34,

[0356] - X- denotes an anion such as a halide,

[0357] - A designates a divalent radical of a dihalide or preferably represents - CH2-CH2-O-CH2-CH2-.

[0358] Examples include the products "Mirapol® A 15", "Mirapol® ADI", "Mirapol® AZ1" and "Mirapol® 175" sold by the company Miranol.

[0359] (10) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole such as for example, products marketed under the names Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by BASF

[0360] (11) Polyamines such as Polyquart® H sold by COGNIS, referenced under the name of "POLYETHYLENEGLYCOL (15) TALLOW POLYAMINE" in the CTFA dictionary.

[0361] (12) polymers comprising in their structure:

[0362] (a) one or more motifs corresponding to the following formula (A): —CHj—CH — NHc Z.

[0363] (b) possibly one or more motifs corresponding to the following formula (B): CK—CH " | (B) NH—CH ti O

[0364] In other words, these polymers can be chosen in particular from homo- or copolymers comprising one or more motifs derived from vinylamine and possibly one or more motifs derived from vinylformamide.

[0365] Preferably, these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers comprising, in their structure, 5 to 100% by moles of motifs corresponding to formula (A) and 0 to 95% by moles of motifs corresponding to formula (B), preferably 10 to 100% by moles of motifs corresponding to formula (A) and 0 to 90% by moles of motifs corresponding to formula (B).

[0366] These polymers can be obtained, for example, by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide. This hydrolysis can be carried out in acidic or basic media.

[0367] The average molecular mass by weight of said polymer, measured by light diffraction, can vary from 1000 to 3,000,000 g / mol, preferably from 10,000 to 1,000,000 and more particularly from 100,000 to 500,000 g / mol.

[0368] Polymers comprising motifs of formula (A) and possibly motifs of formula (B) are notably sold under the name LUPAMIN by BASF, such as, for example, and without limitation, the products offered under the name LUPAMIN 9095, LUPAMIN 5095, LUPAMIN 1095, LUPAMIN 9030 (or LUVIQUAT 9030) and LUPAMIN 9010.

[0369] Preferably, the cationic polymers that can be used in the context of the invention are chosen from among, alone or in mixture, cationic polysaccharides, in particular cationic celluloses such as POLYQUATERNIUM-10; cationic galactomannan gums, in particular cationic guar gums; and mixtures thereof.

[0370] When present, the composition according to the invention may comprise the cationic polymer(s) in a total amount from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0371] When present, the composition according to the invention may comprise the cationic polysaccharide(s) in a total amount from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Non-ionic polysaccharides

[0372] The composition according to the invention may optionally include one or more non-ionic polysaccharides.

[0373] Non-ionic polysaccharides are preferably selected from, alone or in mixture, celluloses, starches, galactomannans, and their non-ionic derivatives, in particular their ethers or esters.

[0374] These polymers can be modified by physical or chemical means. Physical treatment may be cited as an example; and chemical treatment may be cite esterification, etherification, amidation, and oxidation reactions, insofar as these treatments lead to non-ionic polymers.

[0375] Examples of galactomannans that may be used include non-ionic guar gums which may be modified by C1-C6 (poly)hydroxylakyl groups, in particular hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.

[0376] These guar gums are well known from the prior art and can, for example, be prepared by reacting corresponding alkene oxides such as, for example, propylene oxides with guar gum in order to obtain a guar gum modified by hydroxypropyl groups.

[0377] The degree of hydroxyalkylation varies preferably from 0.4 to 1.2 and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum.

[0378] Such non-ionic guar gums possibly modified by hydroxyalkyl groups are for example sold under the trade names JAGUAR HP8, JAGUAR HP60, JAGUAR HP120, Jaguar HP105 SGI and Jaguar HP8 SGI by the company RHODIA CHIMIE.

[0379] The starch molecules usable in the present invention may be of botanical origin from cereals or tubers. Thus, the starches are, for example, selected from corn, rice, cassava, barley, potato, wheat, sorghum, and pea starches. The starches may be modified chemically or physically, in particular by one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, etherification, amidation, and heat treatments.

[0380] Starch molecules can be derived from all plant sources of starch, such as maize, potato, oats, rice, tapioca, sorghum, barley, or wheat. Hydrolysates of the starches mentioned above can also be used. The starch is preferably derived from potato.

[0381] Non-ionic polysaccharides can also be cellulosic polymers without a C10-C30 fatty chain in their structure.

[0382] According to the invention, the term “cellulosic” polymer means any polysaccharide compound having in its structure chains of glucose residues joined by [3-1,4 linkages; cellulosic polymers can be unsubstituted celluloses, and / or derivatives of non-ionic celluloses.

[0383] Thus, the cellulosic polymers usable according to the invention can be chosen from unsubstituted celluloses, including in microcrystalline form, and cellulose ethers. Among these cellulosic polymers, a distinction is made between cellulose ethers, cellulose esters, and cellulose ester-ethers.

[0384] Among the non-ionic cellulose ethers, examples include (Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (e.g., Ethocel Standard 100 Premium from DOW CHEMICAL); (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses (e.g., Natrosol 250 HHR offered by AQUALON) and hydroxypropylcelluloses (e.g., Klucel EF from AQUALON); mixed (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkyl-(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxypropyl methylcelluloses (e.g., Methocel E4M from DOW CHEMICAL), hydroxyethyl methylcelluloses, hydroxyethyl ethylcelluloses (e.g., Bermocoll E 481 FQ from AKZO NOBEL) and hydroxybutyl methylcelluloses.

[0385] Preferably, the non-ionic polysaccharides are chosen from, alone or in mixture, celluloses, galactomannans, and their non-ionic derivatives, in particular their ethers; and even better from, alone or in mixture, non-ionic guar gums possibly modified by C1-C6 (poly)hydroxylakyl groups, in particular hydroxypropyl; and / or celluloses, substituted or unsubstituted, and cellulose ethers such as (Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses and (poly)hydroxy(C1-C4)alkylcelluloses.

[0386] Preferably, non-ionic polysaccharides are chosen from, alone or in mixture, non-ionic guar gums possibly modified by C1-C6 (poly)hydroxylakyl groups, in particular hydroxypropyl (INCI name: HYDROXYPROPYL GUAR).

[0387] When present, the composition according to the invention may comprise the non-ionic polysaccharide(s) in a total amount from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0388] When present, the composition according to the invention may include the non-ionic polysaccharide(s) selected from celluloses, galactomannans, and their non-ionic derivatives, in particular their ethers, and mixtures thereof, in a total amount from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0389] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise one or more cationic polymers and one or more polysaccharides non-ionic; in particular one or more cationic polysaccharides and one or more non-ionic polysaccharides; even better one or more cationic polysaccharides selected from cationic guar gums and cationic celluloses, and one or more non-ionic guar gums. Non-ionic surfactants

[0390] The composition according to the invention may optionally include one or more non-ionic surfactants.

[0391] Examples of non-ionic surfactants include the following compounds, alone or in mixtures:

[0392] - alkyl(C8-C24)oxyalkylened phenols;

[0393] - C8 to C40 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylated or glycerol-based, they preferably contain one or two fatty chains;

[0394] - C8 to C30 fatty acid amides, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxy alkylated;

[0395] - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of polyethy- lene glycols;

[0396] - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of sorbitol preferably oxygenated;

[0397] - fatty acid and sucrose esters,

[0398] - alkyl(poly)glycosides possibly oxyalkylated (0 to 10 oxyalkylated motifs) and may include 1 to 15 glucose motifs,

[0399] - oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or unsaturated;

[0400] - ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide condensates;

[0401] - N-alkyl(C8-C30)glucamine and N-acyl(C8-C30)-methylglucamine derivatives;

[0402] - amine oxides.

[0403] The oxyalkylated motifs are more particularly oxyethylened, oxy-propylened motifs, or their combination, preferably oxyethylened.

[0404] The number of moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide preferably ranges from 1 to 250, more particularly from 2 to 100; better from 2 to 50; the number of moles of glycerol preferably ranges from 1 to 50, better from 1 to 10.

[0405] Advantageously, the non-ionic surfactants according to the invention do not comprise oxypropylene motifs.

[0406] Preferably, they comprise a number of moles of ethylene oxide from 1 to 250, in particular from 2 to 100, better from 2 to 50.

[0407] As examples of non-ionic glycerolated surfactants, preferred are C8 to C40 alcohols, mono- or polyglycerolated, comprising from 1 to 50 moles of glycerol, preferably from 1 to 10 moles of glycerol.

[0408] One example is lauryl alcohol with 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLY- GLYCERYL-4 LAURYL ETHER), lauryl alcohol with 1.5 moles of glycerol, oleyl alcohol with 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-4 OLEYL ETHER), oleyl alcohol with 2 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-2 OLEYL ETHER), cetearyl alcohol with 2 moles of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol with 6 moles of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol with 6 moles of glycerol, and octadecanol with 6 moles of glycerol.

[0409] Among glycerol alcohols, C8 alcohol with one mole of glycerol, C1 alcohol with one mole of glycerol, and C12 alcohol with 1.5 moles of glycerol are preferred in particular.

[0410] Non-ionic alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactants can in particular be represented by the following general formula: RlO-(R2O)t-(G)v in which:

[0411] - RI represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising 6 to 24 carbon atoms, including 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical comprises 6 to 24 carbon atoms, including 8 to 18 carbon atoms;

[0412] - R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms,

[0413] - G represents a sugar motif comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms,

[0414] -1 denotes a value from 0 to 10, preferably from 0 to 4,

[0415] - v denotes a value from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4.

[0416] Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactants are compounds of the formula described above in which:

[0417] - RI designates a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical comprising 8 with 18 carbon atoms,

[0418] - R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms,

[0419] -1 denotes a value from 0 to 3, preferably equal to 0,

[0420] - G designates glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose;

[0421] - the degree of polymerization, i.e. the value of v, which can range from 1 to 15, of preference from 1 to 4; the average degree of polymerization being more particularly between 1 and 2.

[0422] The glucosidic linkages between the sugar units are generally of the 1-6 or 1-4 type, preferably of the 1-4 type. Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant is an alkyl(poly)glucoside surfactant. C8 / C16-1,4-alkyl(poly)glucosides are particularly preferred, especially decylglucosides and caprylyl / capryl glucosides.

[0423] Among the commercial products, we can mention the products sold by the company COGNIS under the names PLANTAREN® (600 CS / U, 1200 and 2000) or PLANTACARE® (818, 1200 and 2000); the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the names ORAMIX CG 110 and ORAMIX® NS 10; the products sold by the BASF company under the name LUTENSOL GD 70 or the products sold by CHEM Y company under the name AGIO LK.

[0424] Preferably, alkyl C8 / C16-(poly)glycoside 1,4 is used, in particular in aqueous solution at 53%, such as those marketed by COGNIS under the reference PLANTACARE® 818 UP.

[0425] The non-ionic surfactant(s) used in the composition according to the invention are preferably chosen from, alone or in mixture:

[0426] - C8 to C40 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxygenated comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 moles of ethylene oxide; they preferably comprise one or two fatty chains;

[0427] - oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 1 to 100 moles ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50;

[0428] - alkyl(C8-C3O)(poly)glycosides, possibly oxyalkylated, preferably of 0 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide, and comprising 1 to 15 glucose motifs;

[0429] - C8 to C40 alcohols, mono- or polyglycerolated, comprising from 1 to 50 moles of glycerol, preferably 1 to 10 moles of glycerol;

[0430] - C8 to C30 fatty acid amides, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxy alkylated;

[0431] - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of poly ethylene glycols;

[0432] - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of sorbitol, preferably oxygenated.

[0433] More preferably, the non-ionic surfactant(s) used in the composition according to the invention are chosen from, alone or in mixture, the following:

[0434] - C8 to C40 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxygenated comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 moles of ethylene oxide and comprising one or two fatty chains, in particular at least one alkyl chain in C8-C20, in particular in C10-C18;

[0435] - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of sorbitol, preferably oxygenated, and

[0436] - alkyl(C8-C3O)(poly)glucosides, possibly oxyalkylated, preferably comprising from 0 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide, and comprising 1 to 15 glucose motifs.

[0437] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the non-ionic surfactant(s) in a total content of 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention. Fatty body

[0438] The composition according to the invention may optionally include one or more non-siliconized fats, which may be chosen from solid fats, liquid fats, and mixtures thereof.

[0439] The term “non-siliconized fat” means a fat that does not contain Si-O bonds.

[0440] Solid fat means a fat having a melting point above 25°C, preferably greater than or equal to 28°C, preferably greater than or equal to 30°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013.105 Pa).

[0441] Advantageously, the solid fats usable in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylated nor (poly)glycerolated.

[0442] Solid fats can be selected from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, waxes and ceramides, and mixtures thereof.

[0443] By "fatty acids" is meant a long-chain carboxylic acid comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The solid fatty acids according to the invention preferably comprise from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. These fatty acids are neither oxyalkylated nor glycerolated. The solid fatty acids usable in the present invention are in particular selected from myristic acid, cetyl acid, stearylic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, and mixtures thereof. Said fatty acids are different from the hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids, comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms previously described.

[0444] By "fatty alcohol" is meant a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylated nor glycerolated. The solid fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and comprise from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better from 12 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, solid fatty alcohols have an R-OH structure with R designating a linear alkyl group, possibly substituted by one or more hydroxy groups, comprising 8 to 40, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better 12 to 30, or even 12 to 24 atoms, even better 14 to 22 carbon atoms.The solid fatty alcohols that may be used are preferably chosen from among saturated (mono)alcohols, linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, having from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0445] The solid fatty alcohols that may be used may be selected from, alone or in mixtures:

[0446] - myristic or myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol);

[0447] - cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol);

[0448] - stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol);

[0449] - arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol);

[0450] - behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol);

[0451] - lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol);

[0452] - ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol);

[0453] - montanyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol);

[0454] - myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).

[0455] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristic alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetostearyl or cetearyl alcohol. Particularly preferred, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, or mixtures thereof, such as cetostearyl alcohol; preferably, cetostearyl alcohol.

[0456] The solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters that may be used are preferably selected from esters derived from C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acid and / or C9-C26 fatty alcohol.

[0457] Preferably, these solid fatty acid esters are esters of saturated linear or branched carboxylic acids comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of saturated linear or branched monoalcohols comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.

[0458] Esters of di- or tricarboxylic acids in C4-C22 and of alcohols in C1-C22 and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxylated alcohols in C2-C26 can also be used.

[0459] Examples include octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyle stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyle myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, din-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, maleate dioctyl, octyl palmitate, myristyle palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

[0460] Preferably, the solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters are selected from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, in particular myristyle, cetyl, and palmitates. stearyl; C9-C26 alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyle myristate; C9-C26 alkyl stearates, including myristyle, cetyl and stearyl stearates; and mixtures thereof.

[0461] In a particularly preferred manner, the solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters are selected from myristyle stearate, myristyle palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

[0462] A wax, as defined in the present invention, is a lipophilic compound, solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid / liquid phase change, a melting point above approximately 40°C and up to 200°C, and an anisotropic crystalline structure in the solid state. Generally, the size of the wax crystals is such that they diffract and / or scatter light, giving the composition a cloudy, more or less opaque appearance. By heating the wax to its melting point, it can be made miscible with oils and form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but by lowering the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, the wax recrystallizes, a phenomenon detectable both microscopically and macroscopically (opalescence).

[0463] In particular, the waxes suitable for the invention can be chosen from waxes of animal, vegetable, mineral origin, non-siliconized synthetic waxes and mixtures thereof.

[0464] Examples include hydrocarbon waxes, such as beeswax or modified beeswaxes (cerabellina), lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives, spermaceti; waxes from cork or sugar cane fibers, olive wax, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax, absolute flower waxes; Montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins, petroleum jelly, lignite and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, as well as their esters.

[0465] We can also mention microcrystalline waxes in C2 to C60, such as Microwax HW.

[0466] We can also mention PM 500 polyethylene wax marketed under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene.

[0467] Also noteworthy are waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched fatty chains, from C8 to C32. Among these, isomerized jojoba oil, such as trans isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, particularly that manufactured or marketed by Desert Whale under the trade name Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, and coconut oil. drogenated, hydrogenated lanolin oil, and di-(trimethyl-1,1,1-propane tetrastearate), notably that sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company HETERENE.

[0468] Waxes obtained by hydrogenation of esterified castor oil with cetyl alcohol can also be used, such as those sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company SOPHIM.

[0469] As a wax, a C20 to C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising 20 to 40 carbon atoms) can also be used, alone or in a mixture. Such a wax is notably sold under the names "Kester Wax K 82 P®", "Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®" and "Kester Wax K 80 P®" by the company KOSTER KEUNEN.

[0470] It is also possible to use microwaxes in the compositions of the invention;Examples include camauba microwaxes, such as the one marketed under the name MicroCare 350® by MICRO POWDERS; synthetic wax microwaxes, such as the one marketed under the name MicroEase 114S® by MICRO POWDERS; microwaxes made from a mixture of camauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as those marketed under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by MICRO POWDERS; microwaxes made from a mixture of camauba wax and synthetic wax, such as the one marketed under the name Micro Care 325® by MICRO POWDERS; polyethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by MICRO POWDERS; and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company MICRO POWDERS. ;

[0471] Waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes such as paraffin wax, petroleum jelly, lignite or ozokerite; vegetable waxes such as cocoa butter, shea butter or waxes from cork or sugar cane fibers, olive wax, rice bran wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, Ouricoury wax, Camauba wax, Candelila wax, Alfa wax, or absolute flower waxes such as blackcurrant flower essential wax sold by the BERTIN company (France); waxes of animal origin such as beeswax or modified beeswax (cerabellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof.

[0472] Ceramides or ceramide analogues such as glycoceramides, which can be used in compositions according to the invention, are known; in particular, ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the DAWNING classification may be mentioned.

[0473] Ceramides or their analogues that may be used are subject to preference for the following formula: Rx

[0474] in which:

[0475] - RI designates an alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, derived from acids fatty acids in C14-C30, this group being able to be substituted by a hydroxyl group in alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in omega position esterified by a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid in C16-C30;

[0476] - R2 designates a hydrogen atom, a (glycosyl)n group, a group (galactosyl)m or a sulfogalactosyl group, where n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8;

[0477] - R3 designates a C15-C26 hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated in position alpha, this group can be substituted by one or more alkyl groups in C1-C14;

[0478] it being understood that in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R3 may also designate an alpha-hydroxyalkyl group in C15-C26, the hydroxyl group possibly being esterified by an alpha-hydroxy acid in C16-C30.

[0479] Preferably, ceramides are used in which RI designates a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C14-C30 fatty acids; R2 designates a ga-lactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; and R3 designates a -CH=CH-(CH2)12-CH3 group.

[0480] The ceramides most particularly preferred are the compounds for which RI denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C16-C22 fatty acids; R2 denotes a hydrogen atom and R3 denotes a saturated or unsaturated linear group at C15.

[0481] Compounds may also be used in which RI designates a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from C12-C22 fatty acids; R2 designates a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical and R3 designates a C12-C22 hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated and preferably a -CH=CH-(CH2)12-CH3 group.

[0482] As particularly preferred compounds, we may also mention 2-N-linoleoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; the 2-N-[2-hydroxy-palmitoyl]-amino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoyl amino-octadecane-1,3,4-triol and in particular N-stearoyl phytosphingosine 2-N-palmitoylamino-hexadecane-l,3-diol, N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N- stearoyldihydrosphingosine, and N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N-docosanoyl N- Methyl-D-glucamine, cetyl acid N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)amide, and bis-(N-hydroxyethyl N-cetyl)malonamide; and mixtures thereof. Preferably, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine should be used.

[0483] Examples of liquid fats that may be used include liquid hydrocarbons, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, triglyceride-type oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, mineral oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0484] The liquid fats have a melting point of 25°C or less, preferably 20°C or less, at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa). Advantageously, the liquid fats are not (poly)oxyalkylated.

[0485] It is recalled that alcohols, esters and fatty acids more particularly have at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 40, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, possibly substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

[0486] Liquid hydrocarbons can be C6 to C18, and be linear, branched, possibly cyclic; they are preferably chosen from among the C8-C16 alkanes, especially C10-C14. By way of example, hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isodecane, and mixtures thereof may be cited.

[0487] Liquid hydrocarbons can also be chosen from those comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, which can be linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin; examples include paraffin or petroleum jelly oils, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, and mixtures thereof.

[0488] Triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin may be chosen from liquid triglycerides of fatty acids comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acid or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grapeseed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, castor, avocado oils, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0489] Liquid fatty alcohols may be selected from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols, preferably unsaturated or branched, having from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Examples include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linolenic alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, undecylenic alcohol or linoleic alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0490] Liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, other than the triglycerides mentioned above, may include in particular esters of saturated or unsaturated mono- or poly-aliphatic acids, linear in Cl to C26 or branched in C3 to C26 and of saturated or unsaturated mono- or poly-aliphatic alcohols, linear in Cl to C26 or branched in C3 to C26, the total number of carbons of the esters being greater than or equal to 6, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.

[0491] Preferably, for monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol or acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.

[0492] Among the monoesters, the following may be mentioned: dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, such as ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate; alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate; isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldodecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.

[0493] Preferably among monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, ethyl or isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, ethyl-2-hexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof shall be used.

[0494] Still within the framework of this variant, esters of di- or tricarboxylic acids in C4 to C22 and of alcohols in Cl to C22 and esters of mono-, di-, or tricarboxylic acids and of di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols in C2 to C26 can also be used.

[0495] Examples include: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; din-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisotearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene diisanonate glycol; polyethylene glycol distearates, and their mixtures.

[0496] The composition may also include, as a fatty acid ester, esters and diesters of sugars of fatty acids in the C6 to C30 range, preferably in the C12 to C22 range. It should be noted that the term "sugar" means oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds possessing several alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups, and comprising at least four carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.

[0497] Suitable sugars may be cited for example sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives in particular alkylated, such as methylated derivatives like methylglucose.

[0498] Sugar and fatty acid esters may be selected in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of sugar esters described above and fatty acids in the ranges of C6 to C30, preferably C12 to C22, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

[0499] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters, polyesters and their mixtures.

[0500] These esters may be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonate, or mixtures thereof, such as mixed oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate, palmito-stearate esters.

[0501] In particular, mono- and di- esters are used, and in particular mono- or di- oleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate, oleostearate, of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose, and mixtures thereof.

[0502] An example is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0503] Preferably, a liquid ester of monoacid and monoalcohol will be used.

[0504] Preferably, the fats are chosen from triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, liquid C6-C18 hydrocarbons, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

[0505] Preferably, the composition according to the invention may comprise the fat or fats in a total quantity of 0.1 to 20% by weight, better 1 to 18% by weight, preferably 2 to 15% by weight, better still 5 to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional compounds

[0506] The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises water, in particular at a concentration preferably ranging from 50 to 95% by weight, for example from 55 to 90% by weight, especially from 60 to 85% by weight, better from 65 to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0507] The pH of the composition may be between 2.5 and 8, preferably between 3 and 7, or even between 4 and 6.

[0508] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more organic solvents, liquid at 25°C, 1 atm, preferably hydrophilic (soluble or miscible with water), which may be selected from C1-C6 aliphatic or aromatic monoalcohols, C2-C8 polyols, and C3-C7 polyol ethers. Advantageously, the organic solvent is selected from C2-C4 mono-, di-, or tri-diols. It may advantageously be selected from ethanol, isopropanol, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, propane-1,2-diol (propylene glycol), and mixtures thereof.

[0509] The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one or more common cosmetic ingredients, in particular selected from among thickeners and gelling agents, both different from the polymers mentioned above; sunscreens; anti-dandruff agents; antioxidants; chelating agents; reducing agents; oxidizing bases, couplers, oxidizing agents, direct colorants; hair straightening agents; pearlescent and opacifying agents; micas, pearlescent pigments, glitter; plasticizing or coalescing agents; pigments; fillers; perfumes; alkalizing or acidifying agents; and silanes. Those skilled in the art shall take care to select the ingredients used in the composition, as well as their quantities, so as not to impair the properties of the compositions of the present invention.

[0510] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic composition, preferably for hair, may comprise:

[0511] - one or more amino acid-type compounds corresponding to formula (I) such that defined above, in which p=2 and R represents a hydrogen atom or a (Cl-C4)alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated, possibly interrupted by an -S- heteroatom and / or possibly substituted by one or two groups chosen from hydroxyl, amino or -NH-C(NH)-NH2; better R represents a hydrogen atom;

[0512] preferably present in a total content of at least 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.7 to 8% by weight, better from 0.8 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0513] - one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids, comprising 4 to 6 atoms of carbon, 1 to 3 OH groups and 2 or 3 COOH groups, and / or their salts, preferably present in a total content of at least 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, better from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1 to 8% by weight, better from 1.5 to 6% by weight,

[0514] - one or more silicones, preferably chosen from among the amino silicones, non-amine silicones, and their mixtures;

[0515] preferably present in a total content ranging from 0.5 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.6 to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.7 to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0516] - optionally one or more cationic surfactants preferably chosen among those of formula (II) above, those of formula (V) above, and their mixtures, better among those of formula (II) above;

[0517] preferably present in a total quantity ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better from 0.2 to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 7% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0518] - optionally one or more cationic polysaccharides, in particular selected among celluloses and / or cationic galactomannan gums; preferably present in a total quantity of 0.01 to 10% by weight, better 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0519] - optionally one or more non-ionic polysaccharides, in particular selected among, alone or in mixture, non-ionic guar gums possibly modified by C1-C6 (poly)hydroxylakyl groups; preferably present in a total quantity of 0.01 to 10% by weight, better 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0520] - optionally one or more non-ionic surfactants; preferably present in a total content ranging from 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0521] The cosmetic composition according to the invention finds particularly interesting application in the field of hair care, especially for cleansing and / or conditioning hair. Hair care compositions are preferably lotions, masks, or conditioners, but may also be in the form of a shampoo, particularly a conditioner, that can be rinsed out; or even in the form of a pre-shampoo, to be rinsed out or not before applying a shampoo.

[0522] The cosmetic composition may or may not be rinsed after being applied to keratinous materials, particularly hair. Rinsing with water may be optional, for example, after any application time. Preferably, it is rinsed after any application time.

[0523] The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process, particularly for hair, specifically for washing and / or conditioning keratin fibers, in particular hair, including the application to said fibers of a cosmetic composition according to the invention, followed preferably by rinsing, after a possible application time.

[0524] Preferably, it is a hair treatment process, in particular for washing and / or conditioning, of sensitized, weakened and / or damaged hair, or of hair charged with metallic ions, in particular copper and / or calcium.

[0525] In particular, it may be a cosmetic treatment process for strengthening hair that is especially sensitized, weakened and / or damaged.

[0526] It can also be a process to limit the loss of shine in hair, especially hair that is sensitized, weakened and / or damaged.

[0527] Said process may also include at least two successive application steps, on hair, in particular sensitized, weakened and / or damaged hair, of a composition as defined above; this is referred to as a multi-application process.

[0528] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.

[0529] In the following examples, all quantities are indicated, unless otherwise indicated, as a mass percentage of active material (g% MA) relative to the total weight of the composition. Example 1

[0530] The following compositions according to the invention were prepared from the ingredients indicated in the tables below (g% MA):

[0531] [Tables 1] Composition AB CITRIC ACID 2.0 3.0 GLYCINE 1 5 AMINOPROPYL DIMETHICONE 0.4 BIS(C13-15 ALKOXY) PG-AMODIMETHICONE 0.3 QUATERNIUM-80 0.5 BEHENTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE 3 CETRIMONIUM CHLORIDE 1 HYDROXYPROPYL GUAR 0.15 0.2 HYDROXYPROPYL GUAR HYDROXYPROPYL- TRIMONIUM CHLORIDE 0.2 HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM HYDROLYZED WHEAT PROTEIN 1 PEG-150 / DECYL ALCOHOL / SMDI COPOLYMER 0.15 BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII (SHEA) BUTTER 0.5 CETEARYL ALCOHOL 7 CETYL ESTERS 1.5 ISODODECANE 0.4 ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL 0.7 GLYCERIN 1 15 POLYQUATERNIUM-37 0.1 PEG-40 HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL 0.8 POLYSORBATE 20 0.8 POLYSORBATE 80 0.8 PROPYLENE GLYCOL 0.2 5 STEARETH-100 0.25 Preservatives Qs Qs Water Qsp 100% Qsp 100%

[0532] Composition A is in the form of a cream and can advantageously be used before shampooing or after shampooing as a mask. This The composition can be used for detangling hair, providing care and strength (body and mass effect).

[0533] The composition also exhibits strengthening properties.

[0534] Composition B is presented in the form of a lotion and can advantageously be used without rinsing before or after shampooing, and before the use of a leave-in mask or conditioner. This composition can be used for detangling hair, providing care and strength (body and volume).

[0535] The composition also exhibits strengthening properties. Example 2

[0536] Compositions C according to the invention and comparative C' were prepared from the ingredients indicated in the tables below (g% MA):

[0537] [Tables2] Composition C C' CITRIC ACID 5.0 ​​GLYCINE 2.5 CETEARYL ALCOHOL 7.0 7.0 Behentrimonium chloride 3 3 DIMETHICONE 1 1 POTASSIUM HYDROXIDE 1.5 GLYCERIN 1 1 Preservatives Qs Qs Water Qs 100% Qs 100%

[0538] Composition C is in the form of a cream which can advantageously be used as a mask, after shampooing, and rinsed off after a period of a few minutes.

[0539] This composition can be used for detangling hair, providing care and strength (body and mass effect).

[0540] The composition also has hair strengthening properties.

[0541] The reinforcement is measured using the DSC technique.

[0542] (i) preparation of the wicks

[0543] The measurements are carried out on strands previously bleached manually and then treated five times according to the following protocol: the strand is washed with a neutral shampoo, then rinsed, 2g of the composition to be tested is applied per strand of hair of 5.7g, the treatment is left on for 5 minutes and then rinsed again. (ii) measurement method

[0544] Differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) is known to those skilled in the art as a method for quantifying protein strengthening in the cortex of keratin fibers (Kinetics of the changes imparted to the main structural components of human hair by thermal treatment, https: / / doi.org / 10.1016 / j.tca.2018.01.014 & F.-J. Wortmann and H. Deutz, J. Appl. Polym Sci., 48, 137 (1993)). The principle of the test is to measure the protein denaturation temperature. It is widely recognized that the higher the protein denaturation temperature, the better the integrity of the cortex proteins, which reflects a reduction in fiber breakage.

[0545] The denaturation temperature is directly related to the binding density of keratin proteins present in the cortex. Thus, the lower the denaturation temperature, the lower the binding density of the proteins to each other, the more disulfide bonds break, and the cortex is damaged. A difference of 2°C is recognized by those skilled in the art as a significant change.

[0546] The apparatus used to perform the measurements is a TA Instruments DSC Q20 reference apparatus. This apparatus measures the energy flow during the heating of the sample. The temperature at which the energy flow is greatest represents the denaturation temperature. (iii) results

[0547] The results of the measurements of the denaturation temperature (Td) of each of the strands treated according to the protocol described above are summarized in the following table and correspond to the average of 3 measurements carried out per strand.

[0548] [Tables3] Td (°C) SD* Natural strand (before bleaching treatment) 153.31 1.36 Untreated bleached strand 138.73 0.75 Bleached strand treated 5 times with composition C 161.55 0.45 Bleached strand treated 5 times with composition C' 140.8 0.32

[0549] *SD = standard deviation

[0550] These results show that the use of the composition according to the invention increases the binding density of keratin proteins present in the cortex of treated hair, thus making it possible to repair damaged hair.

[0551] Moreover, the denaturation temperature for the strands treated according to the present invention is better than that measured for natural and undamaged hair, thus showing that the hair is repaired.

Claims

Demands

1. Cosmetic composition, preferably for hair, comprising: - one or more amino acid-type compounds selected from compounds corresponding to formula (I) and / or their salts, in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals, or of zinc: COOH (I) H — C — P in which p is an integer equal to 1 or 2, it being understood that: * when p = 1, R forms with the nitrogen atom a saturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 8 links, preferably 5 links, this ring being optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from hydroxyl or (Ci-C4)alkyl; * when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a (CrC i2)alkyl group, preferably (Ci-C4)alkyl, linear or branched, saturated, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -S-, -NH- or -C(NH)- and / or possibly substituted by one or more groups selected from hydroxyl (OH), amino (NH2 ), -SH, -COOH, -CONH2 or -NH-C(NH)-NH2;present(s) in a total content of at least 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, - one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids, comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or their salts, present(s) in a total content ranging from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and - one or more silicones, present in a total content of at least 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.;

2. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the integer p of formula (I) is equal to 2 and the radical R represents a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated, optionally interrupted by an -S- heteroatom and / or optionally substituted by one or two groups selected from hydroxyl, amino or -NH-C(NH)-NH2; better p=2 and R represents a hydrogen atom.

3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the amino acid compound(s) are selected from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, their salts, especially of alkali or alkaline earth metals, or of zinc, and mixtures thereof; preferably chosen from glycine, its salts, especially of alkali or alkaline earth metals, or of zinc, and mixtures thereof.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the total content of amino acid compound(s) ranges from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.7 to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.8 to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids, comprising 4 to 6 carbon atoms, 1 to 3 OH groups and 2 to 3 COOH groups; and / or their salts, in particular of alkali metals, alkaline earth metals or zinc; preferably selected from lactic, glycolic, tartaric or citric acids, and their salts, in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals; especially citric acid and / or tartaric acid and their salts, in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals such as sodium citrate and / or sodium tartrate; even better citric acid or its salts, in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals such as sodium citrate.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the total content of hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising a total of 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or their salts, ranges from 1 to 8% by weight, preferably from 1.5 to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the silicone(s) are selected from the following amino silicones, and preferably from, alone or in mixtures: A) polysiloxanes conforming to formula (I): in which x' and y' are integers such that the average molecular mass by weight (Mw) is between 5000 and 500000 g / mol; B) Amino silicones corresponding to formula (II): R'aG3a-Si(OSiG2)n-(OSiGbR'2b)mO-SiG3a-R'a (II) in which: - G, identical or different, designates a hydrogen atom, a phenyl group, OH, alkyl group in CrC8, for example methyl or alkoxy group in CrC8, for example methoxy, - a, a', identical or different, denote 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0, provided that at least one of a or a' is equal to zero, - b denotes 0 or 1, in particular 1, - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149, and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; and - R', identical or different, denotes a monovalent radical of formula -CqH2qL in which q is a number from 2 to 8, and L is an amine group, possibly quaternized, chosen from the following groups: -NR”-QN(R”)2, -N(R”)2, -N+(R”)3 A, -N+H(R”)2 A, -N+H2(R”) A, -NR”-Q-N+(R”)H2 A, -NR”-Q-N+(R”)2H A and -NR”-Q-N+(R”)3 A, in which R”, identical or different, denotes hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a monovalent saturated hydrocarbon radical, for example a Ci-C2O alkyl radical; Q denotes a group of formula CrH2r, linear or branched, r being an integer from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A represents a cosmetically acceptable anion, including halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide. preferably, said amino silicones of formula (II) being chosen from: (i) “trimethylsilylamodimethicone” silicones conforming to formula (III): in which m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, preferably from 20 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 600, better from 50 to 150; n can represent a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149 and m can represent a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10. (ii) silicones of the following formula (IV): in which: - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200; n denoting a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 249 and more particularly from 125 to 175 and m denoting a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10, more particularly from 1 to 5; and - Ri, R2, R3, identical or different, represent a hydroxy or alkoxy radical in Ci-C4, at least one of the radicals Ri to R3 designating an alkoxy radical. (iii) silicones of the following formula (V): in which: - p and q are numbers such that the sum (p + q) varies from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 350, and more particularly from 150 to 250; p denoting a number from 0 to 999, and in particular from 49 to 349, and more particularly from 159 to 239, and q denoting a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10, and more particularly from 1 to 5; and - Rb R2, different, represent a hydroxy or alkoxy radical in Ci-C4, at least one of the radicals Ri or R2 designating an alkoxy radical. (iv) silicones of the following formula (VI): in which: - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n denoting a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m denoting a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; and - A designates a linear or branched alkylene radical having 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. (v) silicones of the following formula (VII): in which: - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; and - A designates a linear or branched alkylene radical having 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. C) Amino silicones conforming to formula (VIII): in which: - R5 represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular an alkyl radical in CrCi8, or alkenyl in C2-Ci8, for example methyl; - R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular an alkylene radical in CrCi8 or a divalent alkyleneoxy radical in CrCi8, for example in CrC8 linked to Si by a SiC bond; - Q is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride or a salt of organic acid, in particular acetate; - r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 20, specifically from 2 to 8; and - s represents an average statistical value ranging from 20 to 200, in particular from 20 to 50. D) Quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (IX) in which: - R7, identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular an alkyl radical in CrCi8, an alkenyl radical in C2-Ci8 or a ring comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl; - R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular an alkylene radical in CrCi8 or a divalent alkyleneoxy radical in CrCi8, for example in CrC8 linked to Si by a SiC bond; - R8, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular an alkyl radical in Ci-Ci8, an alkenyl radical in C2-Ci8, a -R6-NHCOR7 radical; - X is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride, or a salt of an organic acid, in particular acetate; and - r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 200, in particular from 5 to 100. E) Amino silicones of formula (X): (X) in which: - Rb R2, R3 and R4, whether identical or different, designate a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a phenyl group, - R5 designates a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group, - n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, - m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and - x is chosen such that the amine index varies from 0.01 to 1 meq / g; F) Multiblock polyoxyalkylated amino silicones, type (AB)n, A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylened block containing at least one amine group. G) Amino silicones of formulas (XI) and (XII): ÇH R ••• ■ S? CH iaCk c,... i ....J h. (XI) in which: - R, R' and R”, identical or different, denote an alkyl group in C1 -C4 or a hydroxyl group, - A denotes a C3 alkylene radical; and - m and n are numbers such that the average molecular mass by weight of the compound is between 5000 and 500000. in which: - x and y are numbers ranging from 1 to 5000; preferably x ranges from 10 to 2000, and more preferably from 100 to 1000; preferably y ranges from 1 to 100; - Ri and R2, identical or different, preferably identical, denote an alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; and - A designates a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms. H) polysiloxanes and in particular polydimethylsiloxanes, comprising primary amine groups at one end of the chain or on the side chains, such as those of formula (XIV), (XV) or (XVI): (XYf In formula (XIV), the values ​​of n and m are such that the average molecular mass by weight of the amino silicon is between 1000 and 55000. In formula (XV), the value of n is such that the average molecular mass by weight of the amino silicone is between 500 and 3000. In formula (XVI), the values ​​of n and m are such that the average molecular mass by weight of the amino silicone is between 500 and 50000. - Amino silicones conforming to the formula (XVIII) below: in which: - n is a number between 1 and 1000, preferably between 10 and 500, better between 25 and 100, even better between 50 and 80; - m is a number between 1 and 200, preferably between 1 and 100, better between 1 and 10 and even better between 1 and 5; - R”’, identical or different, preferably identical, are linear or branched alkyl radicals, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms; said radicals being optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups OH; - R’ is a linear or branched alkylene divalent radical, having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular 2 to 5 carbon atoms; - R” is a linear or branched alkylene divalent radical, having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular 1 to 5 carbon atoms.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the silicone(s) are selected from, alone or in mixture, - amino silicones of formula (II), preferably those in which G denotes a C1-C8 alkyl and a=a'=0; in particular aminopropyldimethicone, - quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (IX) above; - amino silicones of formula (XVIII) above, in particular those in which n is a number between 50 and 80; m is a number between 1 and 5; R'”, identical, are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising from 13 to 15 carbon atoms; R' is a -(CH2)3-, -CH2-CH(CH3)-CH2- or -CH2-CH2-CH(CH3)- radical, and R” is a -(CH2)2- radical.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the silicone(s) are present in a total content of 0.5 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.6 to 3% by weight, and more preferably 0.7 to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more cationic surfactants, in particular in a total quantity of 0.1 to 10% by weight, better from 0.2 to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 7% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more cationic polymers, preferably selected from cationic polysaccharides, in particular cationic celluloses, cationic galactomannan gums, in particular gums of cationic guar; and mixtures thereof; in particular in a total quantity ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better from 0.05 to 5% by weight, still better from 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more nonionic polysaccharides, in particular selected from, alone or in mixture, celluloses, galactomannans, and their nonionic derivatives, in particular their ethers; preferably from, alone or in mixture, nonionic guar gums optionally modified by C1-C6 (poly)hydroxylakyl groups, in particular hydroxypropyl and / or celluloses, substituted or unsubstituted, and cellulose ethers such as (Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses and (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses; preferably selected from, alone or in mixture, nonionic guar gums optionally modified by C1-C6 (poly)hydroxylakyl groups, in particular hydroxypropyl; preferably in a total quantity ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more non-ionic surfactants, in particular in a total content of 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more non-siliconized fats, preferably selected from triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, liquid C6-C18 hydrocarbons, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof; in particular in a total quantity of 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably 1 to 18% by weight, preferably 2 to 15% by weight, preferably 5 to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

15. A cosmetic treatment process, in particular for hair, in particular for washing and / or conditioning, of keratin fibers, in particular hair, comprising the application to said fibers of a cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, followed preferably by rinsing, after a possible application time.

16. A method according to claim 15, for the hair treatment, in particular washing and / or conditioning, of sensitized, weakened and / or damaged hair, or hair charged with metallic ions, in particular copper and / or calcium.

17. A method according to any one of claims 15 to 16, for strengthening hair, in particular sensitized, weakened and / or damaged hair and / or for limiting the loss of shine of hair, in particular sensitized, weakened and / or damaged hair.