Anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising a sunflower wax, a particular fatty alcohol, alkylcellulose, and tribehenin

Abstract

The invention relates to an anhydrous cosmetic composition in the form of a flexible solid and comprising:a) a sunflower wax;b) at least 15% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition, of branched-chain primary monoalcohol comprising from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably octyldodecanol;c) alkylcellulose whose alkyl residue comprises from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably ethylcellulose; andd) tribehenin. The invention also relates to the use of the cosmetic composition as defined above for protecting, caring for and / or making up the lips.

Description

Title of the invention: Anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising a sunflower wax, a particular fatty alcohol, alkylcellulose, and tribehenin Technical field

[0001] The invention belongs to the field of cosmetics, in particular dedicated to the protection, care and / or makeup of the lips, more particularly to that of anhydrous cosmetic compositions, such as anhydrous lip balms.

[0002] The invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising a sunflower wax, a particular fatty alcohol, alkylcellulose, and tribehenin, dedicated to the protection, care or makeup of the lips, more particularly to a composition which is both consistent and flexible. The present invention also relates to the use of such a composition for the protection, care and / or makeup of the lips. Technological background

[0003] Lip balm is one of the most popular products in cosmetics and has become a must-have for a large number of consumers, even those with little interest in makeup. Lip balms can make lips shine, be slightly tinted, and add an iridescent and glamorous touch to the lips. But they are also intended to protect, repair, nourish the lips, and prevent dehydration.

[0004] Indeed, the skin layer of the lips is particularly thin and sensitive, and therefore more easily attacked by various external conditions (heat, dryness, cold, UV radiation, pollution, etc.). In addition, various substances (pollution and / or makeup components) can irritate the skin of the lips, weaken the skin barrier by absorption of these substances, promote dehydration of the lips and / or prevent them from regenerating. It is therefore regularly necessary to protect the lips, nourish them, preserve their moisture level and / or repair cracks, so that the lips retain their suppleness and softness over time.

[0005] Lip care products vary in their compositions, textures and presentations. They can be packaged in sticks, tubes or jars to be taken everywhere and applied easily. Their performance is also very variable in protecting, nourishing, maintaining hydration and / or soothing the lips. When the skin of the lips is very fragile, balms with a soft texture (for example packaged in tubes with an applicator tip, or in jars, to be applied with the finger) are preferred to classic sticks whose application can be more painful. Satisfactory sensory properties are also expected, such as comfort during application (easy spreading, melting and / or sliding upon application, light and regular deposit, etc.) and during use (comfortable, not very sticky, sufficiently consistent deposit, enveloping sensation). Furthermore, their stability over time is also very variable.

[0006] Various effective flexible anhydrous compositions are known on the market, notably sold in squeeze tubes, such as, for example, the Bariéderm Cica Lip Balm from URIAGE (“Cica-Lips Repairing Balm”), the Atoderm Lip Repair Balm from BIODERMA (“Restorative Lip Balm”), the Shiny Lip Balm from LANEIGE (“Lip Glowy Balm”) or the Instant Color-Enhancing Care Oil Gel from DIOR ADDICT (“Lip Glow Pomade”).

[0007] But the texture (usually in the form of a soft gel) and performance of these products are often linked to the presence of compounds of petrochemical origin such as mineral oils, petroleum jelly, paraffin or plastic powders (nylon, polyethylene, etc.), which may today be perceived by consumers as undesirable. For example, petroleum jelly (also called petroleum jelly or petrolatum) is a gel composed of oil and wax of mineral origin. It has good oil retention capacity, which contributes to the stability of anhydrous formulas. In addition, its high melting point prevents the compositions from liquefying in hot climates. Finally, petroleum jelly also has emollient properties, limits dehydration and promotes rapid healing of the skin.Hydrogenated polyisobutene is also commonly used in this type of soft balm for its feel, the texture it provides (fairly creamy consistency, ease of spreading), its ability to form a waterproof film on the surface of the skin, its emollient properties or even for its ability to enhance shine in lip gloss formulas. Thus, the elimination of this type of petrochemical compound often leads to a deterioration of the sensory properties (appearance, feel, perception on the lips, loss of consistency upon application or even becoming too liquid) and also has an impact on the rheological properties of the composition (more or less easy restitution of the product through the orifice of a squeeze tube), on its stability over time and on its effectiveness (protective, nourishing and anti-dehydration action).

[0008] Anhydrous compositions based on butters or waxes of natural origin exist but are generally less pleasant to use (less easy to apply, either too soft or too rigid, poor restitution of the product through the orifice of a squeeze tube requiring too much effort for the user, loss of consistency on application, etc.) and / or less effective (protection, repair, anti-dehydration effect, etc.). These compositions often also have problems of stability over time, with phenomena of release, exudation and / or anarchic recrystallization leading to a grainy texture or which presents grains visible to the naked eye. In addition, waxes of natural origin are more subject to variations in their composition and quality depending on the batches, which can have an impact on the repeatability of the stability of the formulas. Finally, these compositions generally have a waxy appearance that is less pleasant and attractive to the consumer, who more easily turns to compositions with a gelled, more translucent or even opalescent appearance.

[0009] Thus, the formulation of more environmentally friendly products, which remain efficient in terms of efficacy, sensoriality and stability, represents a real challenge. The use of ingredients of natural origin can have a significant impact not only on the sensoriality of a cosmetic product (texture perceived as difficult to spread or which can cause a brake on application) but also on its stability and homogeneity over time (oily discharge, anarchic crystallization, loss of consistency or fluidification).However, consumers, although increasingly concerned about the environment, remain at the same time very demanding on sensory qualities and continue to look for products which offer ease of application, a pleasant texture (melting, sliding, non-sticky or slimy feel, thick film on the lips, enveloping sensation) and significant effectiveness, throughout the product's lifespan.

[0010] There is therefore still a need for soft cosmetic compositions for the lips of higher naturalness, and in particular free from compounds of petrochemical origin such as mineral oils, petroleum jelly, paraffin or plastic powders. In particular, there is a need to have cosmetic compositions comprising for example at least 75% of ingredients of natural origin, which retain high criteria of sensoriality and stability.

[0011] There is also a need to formulate cosmetic compositions for the lips which have an effective protective and restorative action and which lasts throughout the day, very quickly calming feelings of discomfort and tightness and helping to leave the lips hydrated over time.

[0012] There is also a need to formulate cosmetic compositions which have very good sensory properties, in particular a texture which is both consistent and supple, and which form a sufficiently thick film on the lips which is pleasant to wear and non-sticky.

[0013] There is also a need for cosmetic compositions that are sufficiently flexible and easy to use, to collect and to spread, or even which are easily dispensed through the orifice of a squeeze tube (without requiring excessive pressure to release the composition).

[0014] There is also a need to formulate cosmetic compositions having satisfactory aesthetic properties, in particular a gelled, or even opalescent (non-waxy) visual appearance and a satisfactory shine once applied to the lips.

[0015] At the same time, there is a need to have cosmetic compositions which have good stability over time (control of release or crystallization phenomena, maintenance of consistency and texture), and in particular which remain homogeneous throughout the storage period of the product up to several months after its opening by the end user.

[0016] It is to the applicant's credit to propose a new cosmetic composition which, surprisingly, makes it possible to resolve all of these problems. Summary of the invention

[0017] According to a first aspect, the present invention relates to an anhydrous cosmetic composition, in the form of a flexible solid, comprising: a) a sunflower wax; b) at least 15% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition, of branched-chain primary monoalcohol comprising from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably octyldodecanol; (c) alkylcellulose, the alkyl residue of which comprises from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably ethylcellulose; and d) tribehenin.

[0018] After much research, the inventors have demonstrated that it is possible to provide a cosmetic composition, with a high content of ingredients of natural origin, which is both effective, sensory and stable over time, without requiring the use of compounds of petrochemical origin or plastic powders.

[0019] The composition according to the invention has a texture that is both solid and flexible, easily deformable, for example of the oily gel type or of the pasty oily composition type.

[0020] The composition according to the invention is easily removed (for example with the fingers, using a spatula or through the orifice of a squeeze tube). Its texture is sufficiently flexible to allow restitution through a 2 mm orifice, and this without requiring the user to make any particular effort to squeeze the tube.

[0021] Surprisingly, the particular combination of ingredients makes it possible to satisfy the performance criteria with a protective, nourishing and restorative action, by forming a sufficiently thick protective film on the lips. The composition according to the invention protects and preserves the lips from drying out and irritation, and leaves them soft, supple and nourished.

[0022] Surprisingly, the association according to the invention makes it possible to obtain a gel texture. melting close to that which would be obtained with fatty substances of petrochemical origin. More particularly, the composition according to the invention has very good sensory properties with a balm texture that is both consistent and supple, and spreads easily on the skin with good glide. The texture is also supple and soft on application, allowing it to be deposited on the lips in the form of a thick and enveloping film. In use, the composition according to the invention is also pleasant to wear, not very sticky and not "stringy".

[0023] Surprisingly, the composition according to the invention also has a gelled, non-waxy, even opalescent appearance when leaving the tube (in a layer approximately 2 mm thick) despite the absence of compounds of petrochemical origin. The texture and appearance of the composition according to the invention are completely unusual for a composition with a high content of ingredients of natural origin (usually waxy appearance).

[0024] Furthermore, the composition according to the invention makes it possible to satisfy the criteria of use and stability: the combination makes it possible to obtain an elastic solid, having good stability over time (in particular after storage in accelerated conditions at 50°C and in temperature cycles). Indeed, the composition remains homogeneous, without any phenomenon of oil release or oozing. The flexible solid composition according to the invention also has a constant consistency over time. The particular combination according to the invention also makes it possible to better control the reproducibility of stabilities by overcoming the variations caused by the naturalness of the ingredients (in particular waxes).

[0025] Finally, the composition according to the invention respects the skin, including the delicate skin of the lips, and satisfies the safety requirements as well as the conservation requirements by making it possible to limit or even eliminate the use of preservatives.

[0026] The composition according to the invention is suitable for topical application to the skin, in particular to the lips. It can be used for the protection, care and / or makeup of the lips. It can be packaged in a jar and / or tube.

[0027] The present invention also relates to the use of the cosmetic composition as defined above for protecting, repairing and / or making up the lips. Detailed description

[0028] The general terms used herein are defined below.

[0029] The expression “at least one” is equivalent to the expression “one or more”.

[0030] The expression “comprising” encompasses the expression “consisting of”.

[0031] The expression “from ... to ...” must be understood inclusively.

[0032] The expressions “between ... and..“less than” or “greater than” must be understood excluding limits.

[0033] The name “INCI” designates the name of a cosmetic ingredient according to the international nomenclature (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients).

[0034] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “cosmetic composition” means a composition suitable for external topical application. It comprises a cosmetically acceptable carrier, i.e. a carrier compatible with the skin, in particular the lips. The cosmetic composition according to the invention is a lip care and / or makeup product. The cosmetic composition may further comprise one or more additives comprising active ingredients, emollients and perfumes. It may have moisturizing, soothing and / or protective properties for the lips. It may also promote lip repair.

[0035] The term “solid” characterizes the state of the composition at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). This means that the composition has a consistency high enough to retain its shape during storage under these conditions. In other words, the composition does not flow under its own weight.

[0036] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a flexible solid.

[0037] By “soft solid” is meant a texture that does not flow under its own weight, but can be deformed by pressure, for example with a finger. Its consistency is malleable and graspable, for example like that of an ointment or butter (without the greasy character). In particular, when the composition is packaged in a jar (for example 150 g of composition in a jar 6 cm in diameter), at room temperature (25°C), and the jar is turned upside down, the composition does not flow under its own weight for at least 12 hours, preferably for at least 24 hours. The composition is easily dosable and allows only the necessary quantity of product to be taken. It can also easily escape through the orifice of a tube under the action of low pressure on the tube (for example through an orifice about 2 mm in diameter, without this requiring too much force on the part of the user).

[0038] Preferably, the composition according to the invention has a viscosity, at 20°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013.105 Pa), of at most 500,000 mPa.s., preferably of at most 450,000 mPa.s., measured for example using a Brookfield RV viscometer equipped with a Hélipath system (with an M95 spindle at a speed of 10 rpm or rotation per minute).

[0039] Preferably, the composition according to the invention has a viscosity, at 20°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013.105 Pa), of at least 150,000 mPa.s., preferably of at least 200,000 mPa.s., better still of at least 300,000 mPa.s., measured for example using a Brookfield RV viscometer equipped with a Helipath system (with an M95 spindle at a speed of 10 rpm or rotation per minute).

[0040] More preferably, the composition according to the invention has a viscosity, at 20°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013.105 Pa), ranging from 150,000 to 500,000 mPa.s., in particular from 200,000 to 500,000 mPa.s., better still from 300,000 to 450,000 mPa.s., measured for example using a Brookfield RV viscometer equipped with a Hélipath system (with an M95 spindle at a speed of 10 rpm).

[0041] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention contains at least 70% of ingredients of natural origin, preferably at least 75% of ingredients of natural origin. The percentage of ingredient of natural origin is here calculated according to the principles of standard NF ISO 16128. Surprisingly, the particular combination of ingredients highlighted by the inventors makes it possible to obtain compositions having a high level of naturalness, while combining the sensory, performance and stability properties of compositions containing ingredients of petrochemical origin.

[0042] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “natural” ingredient is understood to mean, in particular, an ingredient (or substance) present in nature (obtained from plants, animals, microorganisms or minerals), unprocessed or obtained solely from physical processes. For example, the ingredient may be extracted and / or treated by mechanical or gravitational means, by dissolution in water, by maceration, by extraction with water, by distillation, by grinding, by pressure, by flotation, by sedimentation, by filtration, etc. The naturalness index of a natural ingredient, determined according to standard NF ISO No. 16128 (or “natural origin index”), is 1 (100% natural ingredient). Examples of natural ingredients include water, plant extracts whose solvents are natural (water or other natural solvents), parts of plants or seeds, vegetable oils, mineral ingredients, etc.

[0043] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “naturally derived” ingredient means in particular a natural ingredient extracted and / or chemically treated, having undergone chemical transformations of small scale and in limited number. These chemical transformations and processes can be carried out according to the principles of green chemistry (as opposed to petrochemical processes involving petroleum derivatives) and are for example listed in standard NF ISO No. 16128. The naturalness index of a “naturally derived” ingredient, calculated according to standard NF ISO No. 16128, is greater than 0.5 (i.e. it contains a proportion of more than 50% of the molecular mass derived from nature).

[0044] The term ingredient “of natural origin” here includes in particular “natural” ingredients and “naturally derived” ingredients as defined above. The naturalness index of an ingredient of natural origin, calculated according to standard NF ISO No. 16128, is greater than 0.5 and less than or equal to 1. In contrast, the in synthetic ingredients or those derived mainly from fossil fuels have a naturalness index of 0.

[0045] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is free of silicone compounds.

[0046] Unless explicitly stated, the term “free” within the meaning of the present invention means in particular a mass quantity of substance less than or equal to 0.5% relative to the total mass of the composition, preferably less than or equal to 0.2% relative to the total mass of the composition, preferably less than or equal to 0.1% and more preferably less than or equal to 0.05%.

[0047] Anhydrous composition:

[0048] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “anhydrous composition” means in particular a composition having a water content of less than 1% by mass, preferably less than 0.5% by mass, even more particularly less than 0.2% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition. More particularly, water is not added during the preparation of the composition and the water content corresponds to the residual water provided by the ingredients which compose it.

[0049] The composition according to the invention comprises fatty substances (including in particular sunflower wax, branched-chain primary monoalcohol comprising from 12 to 24 carbon atoms and tribehenin).

[0050] For the purposes of the invention, the term “fatty substance” means an organic compound that is immiscible in water at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa; 760 mm Hg). More particularly, the solubility in water of this type of compound is less than 5%, preferably 1% and more preferably less than 0.1% by mass. This type of compound generally has in its structure a hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms or a chain of at least two siloxane groups. Generally, the term “fatty substance” includes hydrocarbon, silicone or fluorinated compounds.

[0051] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “hydrocarbon” means a compound containing at least one hydrocarbon group (i.e. a group containing hydrogen and carbon atoms), and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms. The hydrocarbon compound may, for example, contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups. More particularly, in the context of the present invention, a hydrocarbon compound does not contain a silicon or fluorine atom.

[0052] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “silicone” means a compound comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group. Examples that may be mentioned are organopolysiloxanes.

[0053] “Fluorinated” means a compound containing at least one fluorine atom.

[0054] In the context of the present invention, the fatty substances are preferably hydro carbonaceous. More preferably, the composition according to the invention is free of silicone fatty substances and fluorinated fatty substances.

[0055] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is free of fatty substances of petrochemical origin. More particularly, the composition according to the invention may be free of fatty substances of petrochemical origin chosen from mineral oils, petrolatum, paraffin, hydrogenated polyisobutenes and microcrystalline wax. More preferably, the composition according to the invention is free of fatty substances of petrochemical origin chosen from mineral oils, petrolatum, paraffin, hydrogenated polyisobutenes, microcrystalline wax, ozokerite, lignite, ceresin and synthetic wax. Indeed, the particular combination according to the invention makes it possible to obtain high-performance, stable, flexible compositions having a gelled appearance, without requiring the use of this type of fatty substance.

[0056] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention is free of plastic powder of petrochemical origin. It may for example be polyolefin powders (such as polyethylene), polyamide powders (such as nylon powders) or acrylic polymers (such as methacrylate copolymer powders). As examples of such plastic powders, mention may more particularly be made of the compounds with the INCI name Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Polyethylene, Ethylene / Methacrylate Copolymer, Nylon 6, Nylon-6 / 12, Nylon-12, HDVTrimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, or Polyethylene Terephthalate.

[0057] The composition according to the invention may consist of a single fatty phase (single-phase composition) or may be in the form of a dispersion of two immiscible phases (for example in the form of an emulsion comprising a fatty phase and an anhydrous hydrophilic phase or in the form of a suspension of powder in a fatty phase).

[0058] By “single-phase composition” is meant a composition which contains only one homogeneous phase. Such a composition is different from dispersions of two phases which are immiscible with each other at room temperature (also called emulsions) which comprise a dispersed phase (or discontinuous phase) in the form of droplets in a dispersing phase (called continuous phase).

[0059] Alternatively, the composition according to the invention may be in the form of a dispersion of two phases which are immiscible with each other at room temperature (25°C). According to a first example, the composition according to the invention may be in the form of an emulsion in which a hydrophilic phase (comprising hydrophilic constituents) is dispersed in a lipophilic phase (or fatty phase). As hydrophilic constituents which may form a hydrophilic phase, mention may be made, for example, of short-chain monoalcohols, for example containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms (such as ethanol, isopropanol), polyols, linear or branched, for example example comprising 3 to 8 carbon atoms (such as butylene glycol, glycerol or glycerin, sorbitol, etc.), and a mixture thereof. When the composition according to the invention is in the form of an emulsion, the mass content of hydrophilic phase is preferably at most 5%, preferably at most 3%, better still at most 2%, relative to the total mass of the composition. According to a second example, the composition according to the invention may be in the form of a suspension of powder dispersed in a lipophilic phase (or fatty phase). As powder, mention may be made, for example, of the compounds with INCI names: silica, talc, mica, cellulose, tapioca starch (tapioca starch), microcrystalline cellulose, avena sativa bran (oat bran), zea mays starch (corn starch), kaolin, perlite.When the composition according to the invention is in the form of a suspension, the mass content of powder is preferably at most 10%, preferably at most 5%, better still at most 3%, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0060] Whether the composition is single-phase or in the form of a dispersion, macroscopic analysis (with the naked eye) of the composition according to the invention shows a homogeneous appearance.

[0061] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of hydrophilic phase.

[0062] Sunflower wax:

[0063] The composition according to the invention comprises a sunflower wax.

[0064] This is a vegetable wax that is generally a by-product of sunflower oil production, for example obtained by extraction of seeds (particularly unhulled). Sunflower wax is traditionally used in the field of candles and is even said to have been used as a protective wax to cover the pages of Russian manuscripts in the 18th century. It was also used as a fixative wax to maintain hairstyles and ornamental feathers in certain native American societies.

[0065] More generally, waxes provide consistency and a certain hardness to cosmetic compositions. They can also provide a certain shine. Sunflower wax, of plant origin, constitutes a more ecological alternative to mineral, synthetic or petrochemical waxes. But the formulation of cosmetic compositions free of mineral, synthetic or petrochemical waxes is often more difficult because compositions based on plant waxes are more likely to lead to instability phenomena, such as the formation of grains (recrystallization) or the release of oils. In addition, compositions based on plant waxes can present problems of repeatability of stability depending on the batches of plant waxes used, given the fact that these waxes are more subject to variations in their composition and quality.The inventors have identified a specific combination of ingredients that allows . to avoid these phenomena of instability, despite the presence of sunflower wax and the absence of mineral, synthetic or petrochemical waxes.

[0066] Sunflower wax is a fatty substance that is solid at room temperature (25°C) and under atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa; 760 mm Hg), with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point above 60°C. The sunflower wax may be mainly composed of or comprise one or more C38-C60, in particular C40-C54, carboxylic esters. These esters are in particular of formula R-COO-R' in which R is an alkyl chain comprising 16 to 32 carbon atoms, in particular 16 to 24 carbon atoms, and R' is an alkyl chain comprising 16 to 32 carbon atoms, in particular 26 to 32 carbon atoms. Preferably, the sunflower wax has a dropping point ranging from 65°C to 80°C, more particularly from 70°C to 80°C, in particular determined according to the ASTM-D 3954 standard, for example using a Metler Toledo DP70 (Dropping Point System) device.

[0067] As non-limiting examples of sunflower waxes that can be used, mention may be made of the compounds with the INCI name “Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax”, for example the product marketed by the company INGRETECH under the name KAHLWAX 6607L or the product marketed by the company KOSTER KEUNEN under the name SUNFLOWER WAX.

[0068] In the composition according to the present invention, the mass content of sunflower wax may be at least 3%, preferably at least 4%, more preferably at least 6%, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0069] The mass content of sunflower wax may be at most 20%, preferably at most 15%, more preferably at most 12%, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0070] Preferably, the mass content of sunflower wax is from 3% to 20%, preferably from 4% to 15%, better still from 6% to 12%, relative to the total mass of the composition. This makes it possible to combine better stability and sensoriality of the composition.

[0071] Branched-chain primary monoalcohol:

[0072] The composition according to the invention comprises at least 15% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition, of branched-chain primary monoalcohol, comprising from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0073] This is a particular type of alcohol called "fatty" (presence of a hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms): this alcohol has a single primary —OH group, i.e. carried by a CH2 group, and a branched chain. The number of carbon atoms from 12 to 24 relates to the primary monoalcohol and therefore includes the carbon atom of the -CH2-OH group.

[0074] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more branched-chain primary monohydric alcohols, containing 12 to 24 carbon atoms, their total mass content being at least 15%.

[0075] Preferably, the at least one branched-chain primary monoalcohol comprises from 14 to 22 carbon atoms, better still from 16 to 20 carbon atoms.

[0076] Preferably, the at least one branched-chain primary monoalcohol is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa; 760 mm Hg).

[0077] Preferably, the branched-chain primary monoalcohol is a beta-branched primary alcohol. In other words, the branched chain is in the beta position relative to the hydroxyl function (-OH).

[0078] More particularly, the branched-chain primary monoalcohol is a Guerbet alcohol. Guerbet alcohols are a well-known type of beta-branched primary alcohols, formed by dimerization of an alcohol, and are for example defined in document WO2013 / 040313. In the context of the present invention, the branched-chain primary monoalcohol, comprising from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably has the general formula: CH3-(CH2)n-CH(CH2-OH)-(CH2)n 2-CH3, where n is an integer ranging from 5 to 12, preferably from 6 to 10, more preferably from 7 to 9.Examples of Guerbet alcohol comprising 12 to 24 carbon atoms include 2-butyl-l-octanol (general formula C12H26O, n=5), 2-pentyl-l-nonanol (general formula C14H30O, n=6), 2-hexyl-l-decanol (general formula C16H34O and INCI name: HEXYLDECANOL), 2-heptyl-l-undecanol (or HEPTY-LUNDECANOL, general formula C18H38O, with n=8), 2-octyl-l-dodecanol (general formula C2oH42O and INCI name: OCTYLDODECANOL), 2-nonyl-l-tridecanol (general formula C22H46O, n=10) and 2-decyl-l-tetradecanol (general formula C24H5oO, n=12).

[0079] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the branched-chain primary monoalcohol is chosen from hexyldecanol, heptylundecanol, octyldodecanol or a mixture thereof. Advantageously, the branched-chain primary monoalcohol is octyldodecanol.

[0080] As non-limiting examples of branched-chain primary monoalcohols that can be used, mention may be made of the compounds of CAS no. 5333-42-6 (9-Icosanol or 2-Octyldodecan-l-ol) or the products marketed under the names EUTANOL G (from the company BASF), ISOFOL 20 (from the company IMCD) or RISONOL 20SP / MB (from the company KOKYU ALCOHOL KOGYO CO., LTD.).

[0081] The mass content of branched-chain primary monoalcohol in the composition according to the present invention is at least 15% relative to the total mass of the composition. Preferably, the mass content of branched-chain primary monoalcohol is at least 30%, preferably at least 40%, more preferably at least less than 50% relative to the total mass of the composition. This makes it possible to combine better stability and better sensoriality of the composition according to the invention.

[0082] Preferably, the mass content of branched-chain primary monoalcohol in the composition according to the present invention is less than 70%, preferably less than 60%, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0083] Preferably, the mass content of branched-chain primary monoalcohol is from 30% to 70%, preferably from 40% to 60%, relative to the total mass of the composition. This makes it possible to combine better stability and sensoriality of the composition.

[0084] Alkylcellulose:

[0085] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one alkylcellulose whose alkyl group comprises from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 4 carbon atoms.

[0086] The alkylcellulose according to the present invention is liposoluble or lipodispersible.

[0087] Alkylcellulose has gelling properties and can be used as a thickener fatty phase. For the purposes of the present invention, the term “thickener” means in particular a macromolecule which, by its presence, makes it possible to increase the viscosity of the composition into which it is introduced. In addition to increasing the viscosity, the alkylcellulose could also participate in the creation of a gelled network structure within the framework of the association according to the invention.

[0088] Alkylcellulose is an alkyl ether of cellulose. Cellulose is a homo- Linear polymer in which the repeating glucose units comprise three hydroxyl functions. All or part of these hydroxyl groups can react to be alkylated (substitution by an alkoxy group). The degree of substitution (DS) represents the average number of etherified hydroxyl groups per glucose unit. For example, in the case of ethylcellulose (CAS no. 9004-57-3), the percentage of ethoxy groups (-OC2H5) in the molecule can vary between 44% and 51% by dry mass (equivalent to no more than 2.6 ethoxyl groups on average per glucose unit).

[0089] According to a preferred embodiment, the alkylcellulose has a degree of substitution greater than or equal to 2.

[0090] The alkylcellulose may optionally comprise several alkyl groups. different. For example, ethylmethylcellulose (also called methylethylcellulose, used as a food additive), is a cellulose derivative containing both ethyl and methyl groups.

[0091] Preferably, the alkylcellulose is chosen from methylcellulose, ethylcellulose, ethylmethylcellulose, propylcellulose or a mixture thereof. More preferably, the alkylcellulose is chosen from ethylcellulose, ethylmethylcellulose, propylcellulose or a mixture thereof. More preferably, the alkylcellulose is ethylcellulose.

[0092] As non-limiting examples of commercially available alkylcelluloses, mention may be made of the compounds of CAS no. 9004-57-3 (Ethylcellulose) or the products marketed under the names CELLOSIZE OIL 100 Ethylcellulose (formerly ETHOCEL STANDARD 100 PREMIUM) from THE DOW CHEMICAL COMPANY, for example distributed by UNIVAR, or Aqualon EC N200 PC from ASHLAND.

[0093] The mass content of alkylcellulose in the composition according to the present invention may be at least 1%, preferably at least 2%, and more preferably at least 2.5%, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0094] On the other hand, the mass content of alkylcellulose in the composition according to the present invention may be at most 8%, preferably at most 6%. The mass content of alkylcellulose in the composition according to the present invention may also be less than 4%, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0095] Preferably, the mass content of alkylcellulose in the composition according to the present invention is from 1% to 8%, preferably from 2% to 6%, relative to the total mass of the composition. This makes it possible to combine, if necessary, better stability and sensoriality of the composition.

[0096] Advantageously, the mass ratio of the amount of alkylcellulose to the amount of branched-chain primary monoalcohol is from 1:5 to 1:30, preferably from 1:10 to 1:25. This makes it possible to improve the consistency, stability and sensoriality of the composition.

[0097] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention is free of styrene- or olefin-based polymeric gelling agent for fatty phase and isocyanate-based polymeric gelling agent for fatty phase. Examples of styrene- or olefin-based polymeric gelling agents for fatty phase include compounds with INCI names Hydrogenated styrene / isoprene copolymer, Ethylene / propylene / styrene copolymer, Butylene / ethylene / styrene copolymer, etc. Examples of isocyanate-based polymeric gelling agents for fatty phase include the compound with INCI name Castor oil / IPDI copolymer.

[0098] Tribehenin:

[0099] The composition according to the invention comprises tribehenin.

[0100] Tribehenin, also known as glyceryl tribehenate (INCI name: tribehenin), is a triester of glycerol and benenic acid (CAS no. 18641-57-1). It is generally used as a wax, in particular to provide consistency to the fatty phases of cosmetic compositions, and is also known for its emollient properties.

[0101] As non-limiting examples of commercial references that can be used, mention may be made of the product marketed under the name SYNCROWAX HRC, from the company CRODA, or the product marketed by the company SEDERMA (CRODA group) under the name MAXI-LIP.

[0102] The mass content of tribehenin, in the composition according to the present invention, may be at least 0.1%, preferably at least 0.2%, relative to the total mass of the composition. Indeed, small quantities of tribehenin are sufficient to obtain compositions which are stable over time.

[0103] On the other hand, the mass content of tribehenin in the composition according to the present invention may be at most 2%, preferably at most 1%, relative to the total mass of the composition. The mass content of tribehenin in the composition according to the present invention may also be less than 1%, relative to the total mass of the composition. Indeed, small quantities of tribehenin are sufficient to obtain compositions which are stable over time.

[0104] Preferably, the mass content of tribehenin in the composition according to the present invention is from 0.1% to 2%, preferably from 0.1% to less than 1%, more preferably from 0.2% to less than 1%, relative to the total mass of the composition. This makes it possible to combine better stability and sensoriality of the composition. For example, the mass content of tribehenin in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 0.8%, preferably from 0.2% to 0.8%, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0105] According to a particular embodiment, the present invention relates to an anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising, by mass relative to the total mass of the composition: a) from 3% to 20%, preferably from 4% to 15%, better still from 6% to 12%, of a sunflower wax; b) from 15% to 70%, preferably from 30% to 70%, in particular from 40% to 60%, of branched-chain primary monoalcohol comprising from 12 to 24 carbon atoms; c) from 1% to 8%, preferably from 2% to 6%, in particular from 2.5% to 4%, of alkylcellulose whose alkyl residue comprises from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; and d) from 0.1% to 2%, preferably from 0.2% to 1%, of tribehenin.

[0106] Additional compounds:

[0107] The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more formulation agents, in particular conventional active ingredients and / or cosmetic excipients.

[0108] These formulating agents can be chosen appropriately depending on the use of the composition of the invention.

[0109] Non-limiting examples of formulating agents include actives, fatty substances or organic solvents (e.g. alcohols and polyols), rheological agents (thickeners or gelling agents)lipophilic, softeners, humectants, opacifiers, stabilizers, emollients, anti-foaming agents, film-forming agents, emulsifiers, surfactants (anionic, cationic, non-ionic or amphoteric), fillers (for example mattifying powders, soft focus active touch powders, etc.), UV filters (or photoprotective agents, organic and / or inorganic, active in UVA and / or UVB), colorants, chelating agents (chelating), alkalizing or acidifying agents, pH adjusters, preservatives, perfumes or any other ingredient usually used in the cosmetic and / or dermatological field. The quantities of these different compounds are those conventionally used in the fields considered.

[0110] For example, the composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one active ingredient. Examples of active ingredients include: - anti-pollution agents and / or anti-free radical agents and / or antioxidant agents (co-enzyme Q10 or ubiquinone); - anti-aging agents; - firming or anti-wrinkle agents, such as plant proteins and their hydrolysates (for example soy protein extract); - moisturizing agents (such as polyols such as glycerin); - anti-inflammatory agents (such as glycyrrhetinic acid and its salts); - soothing agents (allantoin, bisabolol, cornflower water), - antimicrobial or antibacterial agents; - plumping agents; - vitamins and provitamins (such as ascorbic acid or vitamin C, tocopherol or vitamin E, niacinamide or vitamin PP or B3, panthenol or vitamin B5, biotin or vitamin B8 and their derivatives such as, for example, esters of these vitamins); - essential oils.

[0111] The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more additional fatty substances. Additional fatty substances are understood to mean fatty substances other than those mentioned in the main claim and defined previously (in particular sunflower wax, branched-chain primary alcohol comprising 12 to 24 carbon atoms and tribehenin). They may be liquid or solid fatty substances at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa; 760 mm Hg). “Solid fatty substances” and “liquid fatty substances” are in particular defined and exemplified below.

[0112] By “solid fatty body” (or “non-liquid fatty body”) is meant in particular a compound that is solid or substantially solid at room temperature (25°C) and under atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa; 760 mm Hg). They are generally used in cosmetic compositions as structuring agents, for example to provide consistency to the composition or increase the viscosity of fatty phases. Solid fatty substances can be crystallized, amorphous or pasty. They can be, for example, waxes or pasty fatty substances.

[0113] By “wax” is meant in particular a compound that is solid at room temperature (25°C) and under atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa; 760 mm Hg), with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point above approximately 45°C. Generally, waxes have an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state. Generally, waxes can be of vegetable origin (sunflower wax, rice wax, candelilla wax, hydrogenated castor oil, cork or sugar cane fiber wax, etc.), animal origin (beeswax, lanolin wax, lanolin derivatives, etc.), mineral origin (paraffin, petroleum jelly, ozokerite, lignite, ceresin, microcrystalline wax, etc.) or synthetic origin (polyolefins such as polyethylene waxes, polyalphaolefins, etc.). In the context of the present invention, the waxes are preferably of plant and / or animal origin.

[0114] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “pasty fatty substance” (also called “butter”) is understood to mean in particular a fatty substance with a reversible solid / liquid state change and comprising a liquid fraction and a solid fraction at a temperature of 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). For example, the solid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 25°C may represent 10 to 90% by mass of the compound. In other words, the starting melting temperature of the pasty compound may be lower than 25°C. The pasty compound also has an end-of-melting temperature which may be, for example, lower than 60°C. For the purposes of the present invention, the end-of-melting temperature corresponds to the temperature at which 95% of the sample has melted. The measurement of the melting temperature and the determination of the end-of-melting temperature may be carried out according to the protocol described in document WO2020 / 127383.The pasty compound may have an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state.

[0115] The melting point of solid fatty substances can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name “DSC Q100” by the company TA Instruments with the software “TA Universal Analysis”. Document WO2022 / 003026 describes the measurement protocols applicable depending on whether the solid fatty substance is a wax or a pasty compound.

[0116] Among the solid fatty bodies which can be used, mention may be made, for example, of non-liquid fatty alcohols (such as myristic alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, etc.); non-liquid fatty acids (such as palmitic acid, stearic acid, myristic acid, lauric acid, etc.); fatty acid esters and / or non-liquid fatty alcohols (such as glycerol behenate, octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, etc.); non-liquid fatty amines and ethers; and more generally waxes of natural origin (beeswax, camauba wax, candelilla wax, lanolin wax, rice bran wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, laurel wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, hydrogenated castor oil, etc.) or pasty fatty substances of plant origin (shea butter, mango butter, cocoa butter, kokum butter, hydrogenated coconut oil, etc.).

[0117] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one vegetable butter. The presence of a vegetable butter generally provides emollient but also sensory properties, in particular by giving consistency and melting to the composition. However, the presence of this type of compound can also impact stability (lumpy appearance due to recrystallization phenomena). Surprisingly, the particular association according to the invention makes it possible to avoid these crystallization phenomena even in the presence of vegetable butter. Preferably, the mass content of vegetable butter in the composition according to the invention is from 1% to 10%, preferably from 3 to 8%, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0118] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one beeswax. This makes it possible to improve the sensoriality of the composition. Beeswax was traditionally used as a solid base, ointment or salve in remedies for external application to the skin. However, beeswax can also contribute to instability phenomena (uncontrolled release and / or recrystallization). Surprisingly, the particular combination according to the invention makes it possible to avoid these instability phenomena even in the presence of beeswax. Preferably, the mass content of beeswax in the composition according to the invention is from 1% to 12%, preferably from 4 to 9%, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0119] The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one additional liquid fatty substance. For example, the mass content of additional liquid fatty substance may be from 5% to 30%, preferably from 10 to 25%, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0120] By “liquid fatty body” is meant in particular a compound that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and under atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa; 760 mm Hg).

[0121] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one hydrocarbon oil, more particularly of plant origin.

[0122] By “oil” we mean in particular a fatty substance which is liquid at room temperature (25°C), and at atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa; 760 mm Hg). Oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0123] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “hydrocarbon oil” means in particular an oil formed essentially, or even consisting of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may, for example, contain ester, ether, carbonate, etc. groups.

[0124] By “volatile oil” is meant in particular an oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oil is liquid at room temperature and can have a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (from 103 to 300 mm Hg).

[0125] By “non-volatile oil” is meant in particular an oil remaining on the skin at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours. They have in particular a vapor pressure of less than 0.13 Pa (less than 103 mm Hg).

[0126] As an example of hydrocarbon oils which can be used, mention may be made of hydrocarbons comprising 6 to 16 carbon atoms (n-decane (C10), n-undecane (C11), n-dodecane (C12), n-tridecane (C13), n-tetradecane (C14), n-pentadecane (C15), n-hexadecane (C16), etc.); hydrocarbon oils containing more than 16 carbon atoms and in particular alkane oils (squalane), vegetable oils (triglycerides, sweet almond oil, macadamia oil, hazelnut oil, peanut oil, sesame oil, walnut oil, argan oil, jojoba oil, calendula oil, apricot oil, sunflower oil, olive oil, corn oil, soybean oil, hemp oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, copra oil, pumpkin seed oil, grape seed oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, mirabelle plum oil, shea butter oil, etc.) or other oils of vegetable origin (glycerides such as monoglycerides, diglycerides and triglycerides of fatty acids such as caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, etc.); liquid fatty alcohols (oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, etc.); liquid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters, other than glycerides (ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, diisostearyl malate, hexyldecyl stearate, ethylhexyl stearate, decyl oleate, hexyl laurate, cetearyl isononanoate, coco-caprylate, coco-caprylate / caprate, etc.); liquid fatty acid ethers (dicaprylyl ether, distearyl ether, diisononyl ether, etc.); carbonate oils (dicaprylyl carbonate, diethylhexyl carbonate, dipropylheptyl carbonate, etc.) and their mixtures.

[0127] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one hydrocarbon oil chosen from fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol ester oils. These so-called “fatty” esters have at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted. As examples of fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol ester oils, mention may be made of ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, diisostearyl malate, diisopropyldimerate, hexyldecyl stearate, ethylhexyl stearate, etc. Preferably, the molecular weight of the fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol ester oil is 500 to 5000 g / mol, preferably 600 to 4500 g / mol. Examples of fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol ester oils having a molecular weight of 500 to 5000 g / mol include, for example, diisostearyl malate or diisopropyldimerate. Preferably, the mass content of fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol ester oil in the composition according to the invention is 5% to 25%, preferably 10 to 20%, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0128] Thanks to his knowledge of cosmetics, the person skilled in the art is able to choose the formulation agents to be added to the compositions of the invention and their quantities according to the desired properties without substantially altering the effects linked to the composition according to the invention and in particular the effectiveness, stability and sensoriality of the composition.

[0129] According to a particular embodiment, the present invention relates to an anhydrous cosmetic composition consisting, at least 60% by mass, preferably at least 70% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition, of: a) sunflower wax; b) at least 15% of branched-chain primary monoalcohol comprising from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably octyldodecanol; c) at least one alkylcellulose whose alkyl residue comprises from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably ethylcellulose; and d) tribehenin; and e) at least one additional liquid fatty substance chosen from hydrocarbon oils, in particular of vegetable origin.

[0130] According to a particular embodiment, the present invention relates to an anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising, by mass relative to the total mass of the composition: a) from 3% to 20%, preferably from 4% to 15%, better still from 6% to 12%, of a sunflower wax; b) from 15% to 70%, preferably from 30% to 70%, in particular from 40% to 60%, of branched-chain primary monoalcohol comprising from 12 to 24 carbon atoms; c) from 1% to 8%, preferably from 2% to 6%, in particular from 2.5% to 4%, of alkylcellulose whose alkyl residue comprises from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; (d) from 0.1% to 2%, preferably from 0.2% to 1%, of tribehenin; and e) from 5% to 30%, preferably from 10 to 25%, of additional liquid fatty substance chosen from hydrocarbon oils, in particular of vegetable origin.

[0131] Use:

[0132] The invention also relates to the use of a composition according to the invention for the protection, care and / or makeup of the lips.

[0133] The invention also relates to the above use, in which the composition according to the invention is packaged in a squeeze tube.

[0134] The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for protecting and / or caring for the lips, comprising a step of applying the composition as defined above to the lips. Examples

[0135] The invention is illustrated in more detail by the non-limiting examples presented below. The compounds or raw materials used are named by their INCI name. Unless otherwise indicated, the percentages indicated are mass percentages. The mention “qsp” means that the quantity must be sufficient for the composition to reach 100% of its final mass. The mention “nd” means “not determined”.

[0136] The compositions according to examples 1 to 16 are prepared according to the procedure described below with the proportions in % indicated in tables 1 to 4 below. The different compositions are also evaluated in terms of their organoleptic properties (appearance, color, odor), their stability over time under different conditions detailed below, and their application properties.

[0137] In Tables 1 to 4 below: - the terms “Inv.” or “Comp.” refer respectively to the compositions “according to the invention” or to the “comparative” compositions (outside the invention); - the terms “gel.”, “antiox.”, “aj. pH” and “pigm.” refer to the types of ingredients and mean respectively “gelling agent”, “antioxidant”, “pH adjuster” and “pigment”; - the left column labeled “P” indicates the phases in which the ingredients are present; - the references in parentheses (next to the INCI names of the compounds) refer to the trade names of the raw materials used comprising these ingredients. Details of these raw materials are given below: (1) EUTANOL G (INCI name: OCTYLDODECANOL), marketed by BASF. (2) CELLOSIZE OIL 100 ETHYLCELLULOSE (INCI name: ETHYL-CELLULOSE (and) AQUA / WATER / EAU (and) PROPYL GALLATE), from THE DOW CHEMICAL COMPANY. (3) BENTONE GEL EUG V (INCI name: OCTYLDODECANOL (and) DIS-TEARDIMONIUM HECTORITE (and) PROPYLENE CARBONATE), marketed by the company SACI - CFPA SA. (4) Versagel SQ 1600 T (INCI name: SQUALANE (and) ETHYLENE / PROPYLENE / STYRENE COPOLYMER (and) BUTYLENE / ETHYLENE / STYRENE COPOLYMER (and) PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRA-DLt-BUTYL HYDROXYHYDROCINNAMATE), marketed by the company AZELIS. (5) DISM BIOSYNTHIS (INCI name: Diisostearyl malate), marketed by the company BIOSYNTHIS SARL. (6) DISM10M5 (INCI name: Diisostearyl malate (and) Silica), marketed by the company KOBO PRODUCTS. (7) KAHLWAX 6607L (INCI name: Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax (and) Ascorbyl palmitate (and) tocopherol (and) Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil), marketed by the company INGRETECH. (8) Essential Wax of Blue Lotus flowers (INCI name: Nymphaea coerulea Flower Extract), marketed by the company HUILES BERTIN SAS. (9) CERABEIL BLANCHE SELECTION (INCI name: CERA ALBA / BEESWAX / CIRE D'ABEILLE), marketed by the company UNIVAR SOLUTIONS. (11) ORGANIC FAIR TRADE SHEA BUTTER (INCI name: Butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter), marketed by the company OLVEA SAS. (12) MAXLLIP (INCI name: Ethylhexyl palmitate (and) tribehenin (and) sorbitan isostearate (and) lactic acid (and) palmitoyl tripeptide-1), marketed by the company SEDERMA (CRODA group). (13) SYNCROWAX HRC (INCI name: Tribehenin), from the company CRODA. (14) COVIOX T-90 EU C (INCI name: Tocopherol (and) Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil), marketed by BASF. (15) TOCOPHEROL ACETATE (INCI name: Tocopheryl acetate), marketed by BASF. (16) 90% LACTIC ACID (INCI name: Lactic acid (and) aqua / water / eau), marketed by the company UNIVAR SOLUTIONS. (17) SUNSIL-150H (INCI name: Silica), marketed by the company IMPAG France (m) Ground material obtained by mixing 25% of DC RED 7 C 19003 (INCI name: CI 15850), marketed by the company SUN CHEMICAL MAPRECOS, and 75% of DISM (INCI name: diisostearyl malate), marketed by the company BIOSYNTHIS, France. [Tables 1] Comp Inv Inv Inv P NOMS INCI (%) type 1 2 3 4 A Octyldodecanol® oil (b) qsp qsp qsp qsp Ethyl cellulose & aqua / water / water & propyl gallate® gel. (c) - 2.68 2.68 3 Octyldodecanol & disteardimonium hectorite & propylene carbonate® gel. 10 5 - - Diisostearyl malate® oil 12.9 12.9 12.9 12.9 Diisostearyl malate & silica® 5 5 5 5 Castor communis (castor) seed oil oil 2 2 2 2 Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax & ascorbyl palmitate & to-copherol & . helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil® wax (a) 6 6 6 6 Nymphaea caerulea flower extract® wax 1 1 1 - Alba wax / beeswax / beeswax® wax 6.65 6.65 6.65 7.65 Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter butter - - - 1 Butyrospermum Parkii (shea) Butter (ii) butter 4 4 4 4 Ethylhexyl palmitate & tribehenin & sorbitan isostearate & lactic acid & palmitoyl tripeptide-l(12) wax (d) 1 1 1 1 Tocopherol & helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil(14) antiox. 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Tocopheryl acetate<® antiox.0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Active Oryzanol 0.2 0.2 0.2 - Active Ceramide NP 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Active Theobroma cacao (cocoa) extract - - - 0.1 Pigments®' pigm. 0.012 0.012 0.012 0.012 . B Silica^7) powder 3 3 3 3 C Perfume / fragrance 0.35 0.35 0.35 0.35 Total: 100 100 100 100 Content of ingredients of natural origin (in %) 79.77 77.24 77.39 75.93 Viscosity (in cP) 178500 30700 0 322 500 421 000 Stability No Yes Yes Yes (table 1)

[0138] Table 1 shows that formulas 1 to 3 have a very similar composition and all three include tribehenin (at a content of 20% by mass in the material marketed under the name MAXI LIP, i.e. at a content of 0.2% by mass in each composition). Comparative formula 1 differs from compositions 2 and 3 according to the invention mainly in that it does not include alkylcellulose: here another hectorite-based thickener is used. This composition proves to be unstable according to the stability tests carried out at 50°C for 1 month according to the procedure described below (surface oil release). On the contrary, and surprisingly, compositions 2 and 3 according to the invention are stable, including at 50°C for 1 month.

[0139] Composition 4 constitutes an additional example of a composition according to the invention, comprising the particular combination of ingredients. Surprisingly, this composition is stable at 50°C for 1 month, even in the presence of a significant quantity of beeswax. [Tables 2] Comp Comp Inv P NOMS INCI (%) type 5 6 7 A Octyldodecanol® oil (b) qsp qsp qsp Ethyl cellulose & aqua / water / water & propyl gallate® gel. (c) - 3 3 Squalane & Ethylene / Propylene / Styrene copolymer & Butylene / Ethylene / Styrene copolymer & pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate® gel. 38.33 - - Diisostearyl malate® oil 12.9 12.9 12.9 Diisostearyl malate & silica® 5 5 5 Castor communis (castor) seed oil oil 2 2 2 Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax & ascorbyl palmitate & tocopherol & helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil(7) wax 6 6 6 Nymphaea caerulea flower extract® wax 1 1 1 Cera alba / beeswax / beeswax® wax 6.65 6.65 6.65 Butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter1 h butter 4 4 4 Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter butter 1 1 1 Ethylhexyl palmitate & tribehenin & sorbitan isostearate & lactic acid & palmitoyl tripeptide-l(12) wax (d) - - 1 Tocopherol & helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil(14) antiox.0.3 0.3 0.3 Ceramide np active 0.1 0.1 0.1 Theobroma cacao (cocoa) extract active 0.1 0.1 0.1 Pigments*”' pigm. 0.012 0.012 0.012 B Oryzanol active 0.2 0.2 0.2 Silica(17) powder 3 3 3 . c Tocopheryl acetate antioxidant 0.2 0.2 0.2 Parfum / fragrance 0.35 0.35 0.35 Total: 100 100 100 Content of ingredients of natural origin (in %) 75.12 75.25 75.01 Viscosity (in cP) 275,500 378,500 461,000 Stability No No Yes (table 2)

[0140] Table 2 shows that comparative formulas 5 and 6 differ from composition 7 according to the invention mainly in that they do not comprise tribehenin. In addition, composition 5 is gelled using an olefinic copolymer, not an alkylcellulose. Composition 5 is not stable after storage at room temperature and after storage at 40°C for 3 months (heterogeneous). Composition 6 is also unstable after storage at room temperature (presence of grains). Surprisingly, composition 7 according to the invention exhibits satisfactory stability under the conditions tested. [Tables 3] Comp Inv Inv Inv P NOMS INCI (%) type 9 10 11 12 A Octyldodecanol(1) oil (b) qsp qsp qsp qsp Ethyl cellulose & aqua / water / water & propyl gallate® gel. (c) 3 3 3 3 Diisostearyl malate® oil 12.9 12.9 12.9 12.9 Diisostearyl malate & silica® 5 5 5 5 Castor communis (castor) seed oil oil 2 2 2 2 Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax & ascorbyl palmitate & to-copherol & helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil(7) wax (a) 6.2 6 6 6 Nymphaea caerulea flower extract(8) wax 1 1 1 1 Alba wax / beeswax / beeswax(9) wax 6.65 6.65 6.65 6.65 Butyrospermum parkii (shea) . butter1 h butter 4 4 4 4 Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter butter 1 1 1 1 Tribehenin(13) wax (d) - 0.2 0.4 1 Tocopherol & helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil(14) antiox. 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Active np ceramide 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Active Theobroma cacao (cocoa) extract 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Pigments (m) pigm. 0.012 0.012 0.012 0.012 B Active oryzanol 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Silica17' powder 3 3 3 3 C Tocopheryl acetate antiox.0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Perfume / fragrance 0.35 0.35 0.35 0.35 . Total: 100 100 100 100 Content of ingredients of natural origin (in %) 75.25 75.05 74.86 74.27 Viscosity (in cP) 209,500 441,000 329,000 367,000 Stability No Yes Yes Yes (table 3)

[0141] Formulas 9 to 12 described in Table 3 differ only in the tri-behenin content. Stability tests show that comparative formula 9, not containing tribehenin, is unstable after being stored successively for 1 month at 50°C then 1 month at room temperature (recrystallization phenomenon with the presence of grains). Compositions 10 to 12 according to the invention contain respectively 0.2%, 0.4% and 1% of tribehenin. Unlike formula 9 and surprisingly, these compositions 10 to 12, comprising the particular combination of ingredients, are stable under the conditions tested, despite the presence of additional waxy or pasty compounds which can also promote recrystallization phenomena (beeswax, blue lotus extract, butters). [Tables 4] Comp Inv Comp Inv P NOMS INCI (%) type 13 14 15 16 A Octyldodecanol(1) (b) qsp qsp qsp qsp Ethyl cellulose & aqua / water / water & propyl gallate® gel. 3.35 3.35 3 3 Diisostearyl malate® oil 12.9 12.9 12.9 12.9 Diisostearyl malate & silica® 5 5 5 5 Castor communis (castor) seed oil 2 2 2 2 Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax & ascorbyl palmitate & . to-copherol & helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil(7) wax 7 7 11.66 11.66 Butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter0 butter 6.2 5.2 6.2 5.2 Ethylhexyl palmitate & tribehenin & sorbitan isostearate & lactic acid & palmitoyl tripeptide-l(12) - 1 - 1 Tocopherol & helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil(14) antiox. 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Pigments (m) pigm. 0.012 0.012 0.012 0.012 B Silica(15) powder 3 3 3 3 C Perfume / fragrance 0.35 0.35 0.35 0.35 Total : 100 100 100 100 Content in ingredients of natural origin (in %) 77.19 76.93 77.62 77.36 Viscosity (in cP) 198 500 231 500 288 000 317 000 Stability No Yes No Yes (Table 4)

[0142] Formulas 13 to 16 described in Table 4 constitute additional examples of more minimalist compositions, i.e. containing few ingredients.

[0143] Formulas 13 and 14 have a very close composition and both include 7% sunflower wax. Comparative formula 13, in which tribehenin is absent, does not meet the stability requirements (particularly after storage at RT). On the other hand, composition 14 according to the invention, comprising the particular combination of ingredients, exhibits satisfactory stability under the conditions tested.

[0144] Formulas 15 and 16 are very close and both comprise 11.66% sunflower wax. Stability tests show that, in the absence of tribehenin, comparative formula 15 leads to instability. On the contrary, composition 16 according to the invention has a stable texture under the conditions tested.

[0145] Procedure for compositions 1 to 16:

[0146] A phase A is prepared by mixing and melting the corresponding ingredients by heating to 90°C (using a hot plate) and stirring Rayneri equipped with a deflocculator between 200 and 400 rpm (rotations per minute). The mixture is left at 90°C with stirring at approximately 500 rpm, until completely melted and homogenized, with formation of ethylcellulose gel. The mixture is then allowed to cool to 85°C.

[0147] When the mixture obtained (phase A) reaches a temperature of 85°C, phase B is added with Rayneri stirring equipped with a deflocculator (at approximately 500 rpm). Stirring is maintained at 85°C until homogenized. If necessary, stirring is increased. The mixture is then left to cool with stirring (around 200 rpm).

[0148] When the mixture obtained (phases A and B) reaches a temperature of 40°C, phase C is added and stirring is maintained until homogenization.

[0149] When the mixture obtained reaches a temperature close to 35°C, it is then poured into a container (pot or tube type).

[0150] A solid composition (400 g) with a consistent balm texture and a pale pink color is obtained with a gelled appearance. The composition also has an opalescent appearance, highlighted by applying a 2 mm layer of composition on a cardboard contrast card (white and black bands of the card visible in transparency).

[0151] Evaluation methods:

[0152] Viscosity measurement:

[0153] The viscosity is measured after preparation of the anhydrous composition, after 24 hours of storage of the composition in an oven at 20°C. The viscosity is measured using the measuring device mentioned above (Brookfield viscometer model RV equipped with the Helipath system), at an ambient temperature of approximately 20°C. This device measures the torque required to rotate, at a given speed “V”, a spindle “M” of a given size (selected in accordance with the manufacturer’s standard operating recommendations), immersed in the fluid to be tested. Here the viscosity is measured with spindle no. 95 at a speed of 10 rpm (rotation per minute). Measurements are expressed in cP (centipoise or mPa.s). Viscosity measurements are listed in Tables 1 to 4.

[0154] Stability assessment:

[0155] The stability of the solid compositions is studied after storage under different conditions, in particular under accelerated aging conditions in thermostatically controlled ovens at 50°C for 1 month. For each of the compositions, five glass bottles are subjected to stability testing: at room temperature (RT) for 3 months in the dark, and in a thermo-controlled study in the dark at 4°C for 3 months, at 40°C for 3 months, at 50°C for 1 month and in temperature cycles for 1 month (automatic temperature cycles ranging from -10°C to 25°C every 12 hours). After a certain time (t) of storage under these various conditions, the quality and color of the samples is evaluated by organoleptic analysis of the samples (appearance, color and odor).The organoleptic evaluation consists of evaluating the overall characteristics of the samples with the naked eye (color, possible sedimentation, possible presence of grains, possible release of oil on the surface, hardness and / or consistency constant over time) and the odor of the samples after storage in comparison with the control compositions kept in the dark (control composition at 4°C for comparison of color and odor; control composition at RT for comparison of texture and application).

[0156] The stability results after storage under the different conditions tested (listed in Tables 1 to 4 above) show that the comparative compositions are not stable (release and / or recrystallization phenomena). On the contrary, the compositions according to the invention, which comprise the specific combination of ingredients, are stable, homogeneous and retain a thick gelled balm texture over time. In particular, they retain their organoleptic properties over time.

[0157] Evaluation of performance and sensory properties:

[0158] The sensory characteristics of composition 3 according to the invention (texture and sensations on application and after application) are compared to those of a Lip Balm (comparative composition 17), containing ingredients of petrochemical origin conventionally used, which give it in particular a flexible gelled texture with good sensory properties, such as for example good glide and good spreading and leaving a sufficiently consistent film on application (no loss of thickness on application).

[0159] Comparative composition 17, based on petrochemical ingredients, is prepared according to the procedure described below, with the proportions given in table 5 below. [Tables 5] P Trade Name Materials Used INCI NAMES Type Comp 17 (%) A VASELINE CODEX BC 44 from AIGLON SA Paraffinum liquidum (mineral oil) & cera microcristallina (microcrystalline wax) GEL (oil + wax) 30 A TRANSGEL 110 from SACI - CFPA SA (France) Paraffinum liquidum (mineral oil) & hydrogenated styrene / isoprene copolymer & caprylic / capric triglyceride gel. 38.33 A PARLEAM HV from ROSSOW Hydrogenated polyisobutene & tocopherol gel. 10 A FLUID VASELINE OIL Paraffinum liquidum (mineral oil) oil 12.67 A OZOKERITEY76 marketed by UNIVAR SOLUTIONS Paraffin & synthetic wax & hydrogenated microcrystalline wax cire 6 A MICROPOLY 250 S from SAFIC ALCAN SAS (France) Polyethylene plastic powder 3 Total: 100 Content of ingredients of natural origin (in %) 0 Viscosity (in cP) 248,000 Stability Yes (table 5)

[0160] Comparative composition 17 is prepared by mixing all the ingredients of phase A in a beaker. The mixture is heated to 85°C with Rayneri stirring (approximately 300 rpm) until the ingredients are completely melted and homogenized. The mixture is allowed to cool with Rayneri stirring (approximately 150 rpm) until it reaches a temperature of approximately 35°C, at which temperature the mixture is packaged in a container (jar or tube type). A solid composition with a consistent balm texture is obtained with a gelled appearance. The composition also has a certain translucency, highlighted by applying a 2 mm layer of com- position on a cardboard contrast map (white and black bands of the map visible in transparency).

[0161] Compositions 17 and 3 have comparable consistency and viscosity.

[0162] The evaluation of sensory properties is carried out on a panel of 5 people experts (trained in sensory technique). The two products are evaluated monadically (one after the other) according to the description below.

[0163] The composition is applied to each lip previously cleaned with a two-phase makeup remover. The descriptors evaluated are classified into three categories as follows: • to the application: - slipperiness (product's ability to slide, to spread during application, as opposed to the braking sensation) is assessed on a scale of 0 (non-slippery product, hard to spread throughout application) to 10 (very slippery product until the end of application); - the thickness of the film (consistency or thickness of the product measured by gently pressing the product onto the lips with the middle finger) is assessed on a scale from 0 (product not thick, no sensation of a film on the lips) to 10 (very thick product); • immediately after application: - the greasy or oily sensation (capacity of the product to leave a residual oily film on the surface of the lips) is assessed on a scale of 0 (no greasy film) to 10 (very greasy product on the skin); - stickiness (the product's ability to make the skin adhere, as measured by pressing the product onto the lips with the middle finger, with the impression that the skin is lifted) is assessed on a scale of 0 (non-sticky product) to 10 (very sticky product); - shine (the product's ability to reflect light when tilting the lips to capture the light) is rated on a scale of 0 (matte, non-shiny skin) to 10 (very shiny skin); • 2 minutes after application: - stickiness (the product's ability to make the skin adhere, as measured by pressing the product onto the lips with the middle finger, with the impression that the skin is lifted) is assessed on a scale of 0 (non-sticky product) to 10 (very sticky product); - shine (the product's ability to reflect light when tilting the lips to capture the light) is rated on a scale of 0 (matte, non-shiny skin) to 10 (very shiny skin).

[0164] The results of the evaluation of the sensory characteristics are listed in Table 6, the average of the 5 expert panelists being retained. [Tableauxô] Descriptors Composition 17 Composition 3 according to the invention On application Slippery 5.85 7.39 Film thickness 7.03 6.02 Immediately after application Oily 7.01 7.07 Sticky 4.63 3.55 Shine 8.51 8.21 2 minutes after application Sticky 2 min 5.04 3.95 Shine 2 min 8.01 7.55 (table 6)

[0165] Composition 3 according to the invention makes it possible to obtain sensory characteristics comparable to high-performance compositions on the market, which are essentially composed of fatty substances of petrochemical origin conventionally used such as petroleum jelly, paraffin, hydrogenated polyisobutene or microcrystalline wax, with easy and pleasant spreading. Composition 3 also has a gelled appearance comparable to that of composition 17 based on ingredients of petrochemical origin (non-waxy appearance), as well as an intense shine. In addition, composition 3 according to the invention has entirely satisfactory properties in terms of texture and film thickness on the lips (does not liquefy during application) allowing a deposit in the form of a thick and enveloping film which protects and preserves the dehydration of the lips.

[0166] Thus, the particular association according to the invention makes it possible to obtain compositions of higher naturalness, while reproducing the sensory characteristics of petroleum jelly-based formulas, which are both consistent and flexible, with an enveloping and non-sticky texture. In addition, the compositions according to the invention make it possible to meet stability requirements even in hot climates, and this, without requiring the use of petrochemical fatty substances or plastic powders. In addition, the compositions according to the invention have a more gelled than waxy appearance. Finally, the firm yet flexible texture provided by the compositions according to the invention makes it possible to package the product in a tube with a very small opening (of the order of 0.2 mm), without the restitution of the product requiring the tube to be squeezed strongly, which presents an advantage for comfort and ease of use.

[0167] In conclusion, the compositions according to the invention, comprising the particular association claimed, make it possible to reconcile all of the desired properties such as stability, consistency that is both solid and elastic, performance and sensoriality (easy application, soft, slippery, low-stickiness texture, consistent and enveloping film). Finally, the compositions according to the invention leave the lips soft and nourished, protect them from drying out and promote their repair.

[0168] The particular combination of ingredients according to the invention thus makes it possible to obtain a flexible and elastic solid composition, with a high naturalness rate, while presenting the required sensory and stability properties.

Claims

Claims

1. Anhydrous cosmetic composition in the form of a flexible solid and comprising: a) a sunflower wax; b) at least 15% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition, of branched-chain primary monoalcohol comprising from 12 to 24 carbon atoms; c) alkylcellulose whose alkyl residue comprises from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; d) tribehenin.

2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, having a viscosity, at 20°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013.105 Pa), ranging from 150,000 mPa.s to 500,000 mPa.s.

3. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, the composition being free of hydrophilic phase.

4. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the mass content of sunflower wax is at least 3%, preferably at least 4%, relative to the total mass of the composition.

5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the branched-chain primary monoalcohol has the general formula CH3-(CH2)n-CH(CH2-OH)-(CH2)n 2-CH3, where n is an integer ranging from 5 to 12, preferably from 6 to 10.

6. A cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the branched-chain primary monoalcohol is selected from hexyldecanol, heptylundecanol, octyldodecanol or a mixture thereof.

7. A cosmetic composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the branched-chain primary monoalcohol is octyldodecanol.

8. A cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the alkylcellulose is selected from methylcellulose, ethylcellulose, ethylmethylcellulose, propylcellulose or a mixture thereof.

9. A cosmetic composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the alkylcellulose is ethylcellulose.

10. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims-

11.

12.

13.

14.

15. preceding, wherein the mass ratio of the amount of alkylcellulose to the amount of branched-chain primary monoalcohol is from 1:5 to 1:30, preferably from 1:10 to 1:

25. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the mass content of tribehenin is less than 1%, relative to the total mass of the composition. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one beeswax. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, the composition being free from fatty substances of petrochemical origin chosen from mineral oils, petroleum jelly, paraffin, hydrogenated polyisobutenes and microcrystalline wax. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, the composition being free of plastic powder of petrochemical origin chosen from the compounds with the INCI name Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Polyethylene, Ethylene / Methacrylate Copolymer, Nylon 6, Nylon-6 / 12, Nylon-12, HDI / Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, and Polyethylene Te-rephthalate. Use of the cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims for the protection, care and / or makeup of the lips.