COMPOSITION COMPRISING UREA OR ONE OF ITS DERIVATIVES, A POLYCARBOXYLIC ACID AND A MULTIVALENT CATION SALT

Abstract

COMPOSITION COMPRISING UREA OR ONE OF ITS DERIVATIVES, A POLYCARBOXYLIC ACID AND A MULTIVALENT CATION SALT The invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising: a) one or more compounds chosen from urea and / or urea derivatives, b) one or more carboxylic acids and / or their salts chosen from monohydroxylated polycarboxylic acids and non-hydroxylated polycarboxylic acids having at least a pKa of less than or equal to 4.25, c) one or more inorganic salts of multivalent cations. It also relates to the use of this composition for smoothing keratin fibers. Finally, it relates to a treatment method, in particular for smoothing and relaxing keratin fibers.

Description

Title of the invention: COMPOSITION COMPRISING UREA OR ONE OF ITS DERIVATIVES, A POLYCARBOXYLIC ACID AND A MULTIVALENT CATION SALT

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition comprising urea and / or its derivatives, one or more particular carboxylic acids and one or more salts of multivalent cations.

[0002] The present invention also relates to a method for treating keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising a step of applying to the keratin fibers a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, comprising urea and / or its derivatives, one or more particular carboxylic acids and one or more multivalent cation salts, optionally followed by the application of a shampoo composition and rinsing.

[0003] In the hair sector, consumers want to have compositions that allow them to make a temporary change to their hair, while aiming for a good hold of the effect achieved. In general, we want the change to persist after shampooing for at least 15 days, or even longer depending on the nature of the change.

[0004] Heat treatments are generally used to modify the shape of the hair, in a lasting way. These treatments allow a visual modification of the appearance of the hairstyle, combining a reduction in the degree of frizz, a reduction in the overall volume of the hair, a reduction in frizz, a gain in discipline, a smoother visual appearance, a substantial gain in shine, resistance to humidity and heat to maintain the hairstyle all day long.

[0005] Several technologies are combined with these heat treatments. A first technology is based on the use of compositions based on thiolated reducers. These technologies require strict compliance with the application conditions recommended by the suppliers, particularly in terms of quantity and pause time. In addition, they may be contraindicated on overly sensitized hair and may not be compatible with the application on the same day of other treatments such as coloring or bleaching. They are also malodorous.

[0006] Another technology is based on the use of compositions based on formaldehyde (or formalin) and its derivatives. These treatments have the particularity of being robust, perfectly compatible with all other classic hair treatments, such as the thiol straightening mentioned above, alkaline straightening, coloring or bleaching of all types, carried out before or after. They give the hair excellent discipline, very strong shine and ease of daily care. However, in case of repeated applications, new hair damage appears which can lead to hair breakage. In addition, for toxicological reasons, the use of some of these compounds is now prohibited and / or regulated. There is therefore an increasing attempt to avoid the use of such substances, which can be aggressive for the hair and other keratinous materials.

[0007] To limit the alterations of hair fibers, it has also been proposed to use compositions comprising weak acids at alkaline pH associated with a heat treatment.

[0008] There is still a need to develop a composition and a method for treating keratin fibers such as hair, which makes it possible to smooth / straighten and / or control the volume of the hair in an effective and lasting manner by limiting the degradation of the hair while maintaining comfort at the time of application for the user and the hairdresser who applies it.

[0009] The Applicant has now discovered that the use of a composition comprising urea and / or its derivatives, one or more particular carboxylic acids and one or more multivalent cation salts makes it possible to achieve the desired properties of long-lasting smoothing without heat treatment.

[0010] The subject of the invention is a composition comprising: • a) one or more compounds chosen from urea and / or urea derivatives, • b) one or more carboxylic acids and / or their salts chosen from:

[0011] i) monohydroxylated polycarboxylic acids and

[0012] ii) non-hydroxylated polycarboxylic acids having at least one pKa less than or equal to 4.25, • c) one or more inorganic salts of multivalent cations.

[0013] The composition according to the invention makes it possible, in particular, to discipline the hair, or even smooth the hair and to obtain hair with good relaxation of curls and better control of volume, reducing frizz.

[0014] Furthermore, the composition according to the invention makes it possible, in particular, to obtain a lasting effect over time which resists several shampoos.

[0015] Therefore, an object of the present invention relates to a method for treating keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising:

[0016] 1) a step of applying to the keratin fibers a composition comprising:

[0017] a) one or more compounds chosen from urea and / or urea derivatives,

[0018] b) one or more carboxylic acids and / or their salts chosen from:

[0019] monohydroxylated polycarboxylic acids and

[0020] non-hydroxylated polycarboxylic acids having a pKa less than or equal to 4.25,

[0021] c) one or more inorganic salts of multivalent cations,

[0022] 2) possibly followed by the application of a shampoo composition and a rinsing

[0023] 3) possibly followed by a drying step.

[0024] Other characteristics and advantages of the invention will appear more clearly on reading the description and examples which follow.

[0025] Preferably, the process for treating keratin fibers according to the invention is a process for smoothing keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair.

[0026] In the following the expression “at least one” is equivalent to the expression “one or more”.

[0027] By "multivalent cation" is meant any monoatomic or polyatomic ion comprising at least two positive electrical charges and having a valence of at least 2 and preferably 2 or 3.

[0028] Preferably, the composition according to the invention does not comprise any coloring agent or reducing agent.

[0029] By "coloring agents" is meant according to the present invention agents for coloring keratin fibers such as direct dyes, pigments or oxidation dye precursors (bases and couplers). If they are present, their content does not exceed 0.001% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Indeed, at such a content, only the composition would be tinted, that is to say that no coloring effect on the keratin fibers would be observed.

[0030] It is recalled that the precursors of oxidation dyes, oxidation bases and couplers, are compounds with little or no color which, by a condensation reaction in the presence of an oxidizing agent, give a colored species. As for direct dyes, these compounds are colored and have a certain affinity for keratin fibers.

[0031] By "reducing agent" is meant according to the present invention an agent capable of reducing the disulfide bonds of the hair, such as compounds chosen from thiols, alkali sulfites, hydrides, phosphines.

[0032] By urea derivative is meant any compound other than urea CO(NH2)2 itself, comprising in its chemical formula a carbonyl group simply linked to two nitrogen atoms, i.e. a unit

[0033] Preferably, said compound(s) (a) are chosen from compounds of formula (I) or (II), their salts or their hydrates: (I) (II)

[0034] in which:

[0035] - RI, R2, R3, R4 represent, independently:

[0036] (i) a hydrogen atom or

[0037] (ii) a linear or branched, cyclic or acyclic C1-C5 lower alkyl or alkenyl radical, a C1-C5 alkoxy radical, a C6-C18 aryl radical, a heterocyclic radical having 5 to 8 members; these radicals being optionally substituted by a radical chosen from the radicals: hydroxyl, (di)(C1-C4)(alkyl)amino such as dimethylamino, carboxyl, halogen, C6-C18 aryl, carboxamide and N-methylcarboxamide;

[0038] it being understood that

[0039] - when RI, R2 and R3 represent a hydrogen atom, R4 can denote a lower C1-C5 alkyl or alkenyl radical, linear or branched, optionally substituted by a hydroxyl radical, a carboxamide, methoxy, ethoxy, 1,2,4-triazolyl, cyclopentyl, (C1-C6)alkylcarbonyl radical such as acetyl, (C1-C6)alkoxycarbonyl such as methoxycarbonyl or ethoxycarbonyl, -CO-CH=CH-COOH, phenyl optionally substituted by a chlorine atom or a hydroxyl, benzyl or 2,5-dioxo-4-imidazolidinyl radical when R1 and R3 represent a hydrogen atom, R2 may represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl or ethyl radical and R4 an acetyl radical;

[0040] - when R1=R2=H, R3 and R4 can form, with the nitrogen atom which carries them, a piperidine, 3-methylpyrazole, 3,5-dimethylpyrazole or maleimide ring;

[0041] - RI and R2 as well as R3 and R4 can form, with the nitrogen atom which carries them, a imidazole ring;

[0042] - R5 and R6 represent, independently of each other,

[0043] (iii) a hydrogen atom or

[0044] (iv) a linear or branched, cyclic or acyclic C1-C5 alkyl, acyl, or lower alkenyl radical, a C1-C5 alkoxy radical, a C6-C18 aryl radical, a heterocyclic radical having 5 to 8 members; these radicals being optionally substituted by a radical chosen from the radicals: hydroxyl, amino, dimethylamino, carboxyl, halogen, C6-C18 aryl, carboxamide and N-methylcarboxamide;

[0045] - A is a radical chosen from the radicals: CH2-CH2, CH=CH, CH2-CO, CO-NH, CH=N, CO-CO, CHOH-CHOH, (HOOC)CH-CH, CHOH-CO, CH2-CH2-CH2, CH2 - NH-CO, CH=C(CH3)-CO, NH-CO-NH, CH2-CH2-CO, CH2-N(CH3)-CH2, nh-ch2 -NH, CO-CH(CH3)-CH2, CO-CH2-CO, CO-NH-CO, CO-CH(COOH)-CH2, co-CH=C(COOH), CO-CH=C(CH3), CO-C(NH2)=CH, CO-C(CH3)=N, co-ch=ch, co-CH=N and CO-N=CH.

[0046] Among the compounds of formula (I) particularly preferred according to the invention, mention may be made of:

[0047] urea, methylurea, ethylurea, propylurea, n-butylurea, sec-butylurea, isobutylurea, tert-butylurea, cyclopentylurea, ethoxyurea, hydroxyethylurea, N-(2-hydroxypropyl)urea, N-(3-hydroxypropyl)urea, N-(2-dimethylaminopropyl)urea, N-(3-dimethylaminopropyl)urea, l-(3-hydroxyphenyl)urea, benzylurea, N-carbamoyl maleamide, N-carbamoyl maleamic acid, piperidinecarboxamide, l,2,4-triazol-4-yl-urea, hydantoic acid, methyl allophanate, ethyl allophanate, acetylurea, hydroxyethyleneurea, 2-(hydroxyethyl)ethyleneurea, diallylurea, chloroethylurea, N,N-dimethylurea, N,N-diethylurea, N,N-dipropylurea, cy-clopentyl-1-methylurea, 1,3-dimethylurea, 1,3-diethylurea, l,3-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)urea, l,3-bis(2-hydroxypropyl)urea, l,3-bis(3-hydroxypropyl)urea, 1,3-dipropylurea, ethyl-3-propylurea- sec-butyl-3-methylurea, isobutyl-3-methylurea, cyclopentyl-3-methylurea,N-acetyl-N'-methylurea, trimethylurea, butyl-3,3-dimethylurea, tetramethylurea and benzylurea.

[0048] Among the compounds of formula (II) particularly preferred according to the invention, mention may be made of:

[0049] parabanic acid, 1,2-dihydro-3H-1,2,4-triazol-2-one, barbituric acid, uracil, 1-methyl uracil, 3-methyl uracil, 5-methyl uracil, 1,3-dimethyl uracil, 5-aza uracil, 6-aza uracil, 5-fluoro uracil, 6-fluoro uracil, 1,3-dimethyl-5-fluoro uracil, 5-amino uracil, 6-amino uracil, 6-amino-1-methyl uracil, 6-amino-1,3-dimethyl uracil, 4-chloro uracil, 5-chloro uracil, 5,6-dihydro uracil, 5,6-dihydro-5-methyl uracil, 2-imidazolidone, l-methyl-2-imidazolidinone, l,3-dimethyl-2-imidazolidinone, 4,5-dihydroxy-imidazolidin-2-one, l-(2-hydroxyethyl)-2-imidazolidinone, l-(2-hydroxypropyl)-2-imidazolidinone, l-(3-hydroxypropyl)-2-imidazolidinone, 4,5-dihydroxy-1,3-dimethyl-imidazolidin-2-one, l,3-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-2-imidazolidinone, 2-imidazolidone-4-carboxylic acid, l-(2-aminoethyl)-2-imidazole, 4-methyl-l,2,4-triazoline-3,5-dione, 2,4-dihydroxy-6-methylpyrimidine,l-amino-4,5-dihydro-lH-tetrazol-5-one, hydantoin, 1-methylhydantoin, 5-methylhydantoin, 5,5-dimethylhydantoin, 5-ethylhydantoin, 5-n-propylhydantoin, , 5-ethyl-5-methylhydantoin, 5-hydroxy-5-methylhydantoin, 5-hydroxymethylhydantoin, 1-allylhydantoin, 1-aminohydantoin, hy-dantoin 5-acetic acid, 4-amino-1,2,4-triazolone-3,5-dione, hexahydro-1,2,4,5-tetrazme-3,6-dione, 5-methyl-1,3,5-triazinon-2-one, 1-methyl-tetrahydro-pyrimidin-2-one, 2,4-dioxohexahydro-1,3,5-triazine, urazole, 4-methylurazole, orotic acid, dihydroxyorotic acid, 2,4,5-trihydroxypyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4-methylpyrimidine, 4,5-diamino-2,6-dihydroxypyrimidine, barbituric acid, 1,3-dimethylbarbituric acid, cyanuric acid, 1-methyl-hexahydropyrimidine-2,4-dione, 1,3-dimethyl-3,4,5,6-tetrahydro-2-1H-pyrimidinone, 5-(hydroxymethyl-2,4-(1H,3H)-pyrimidinedione, 2,4-dihydroxypyrimidine-5-carboxylic acid, 6-azathymine, 5-methyl-1,3,5-triazinan-2-one, N-carbamoylmaleamic acid and alloxan monohydrate.

[0050] Preferably, said compound(s) (a) are chosen from urea, hydroxyethylurea, and mixtures thereof.

[0051] Said compound(s) (a) represent in total preferably from 0.1 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 20% by weight, better still from 2 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0052] Carboxylic acids

[0053] The composition according to the invention also comprises one or more carboxylic acids and / or their salts chosen from monohydroxylated polycarboxylic acids and non-hydroxylated polycarboxylic acids having a pKa less than or equal to 4.25 and / or their salts.

[0054] The non-hydroxylated polycarboxylic acids have a pKa less than or equal to 4.25, preferably less than 4, better still less than 3.7.

[0055] The carboxylic acids which can be used according to the invention comprise from 3 to 10 carbon atoms.

[0056] Preferably, the carboxylic acid(s) according to the invention are chosen from the compounds of formula (I) or (II) below:

[0057] XO2C-R-CO2X' (I)

[0058] in which:

[0059] -R is a C1-C8, preferably C1-C6, cyclic or acyclic, preferably acyclic, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched aliphatic radical, comprising between 0 and 7 unsaturations, (double and / or triple bonds) and / or 0 to 2 cycles, comprising a hydroxyl group and optionally substituted by one or more carboxy substituents (-COOX”);

[0060] -X and X', X” independently represent a hydrogen atom, an ammonium salt, an alkali metal salt, such as Li, Na, K, or an alkaline earth salt such as Be, Mg, Ca or a salt derived from an organic amine such as an alkylamine.

[0061] Preferably in the formula above, and R is a C1-C6, better still C1-C4, better still C1-C3, acyclic, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched aliphatic radical, comprising between 0 and 2 unsaturations, (double and / or triple bonds) comprising a hydroxyl group, optionally substituted by one or more substituents chosen from carboxy groups (-COOX”);

[0062] -X and X', X” independently represent a hydrogen atom, an ammonium salt, an alkali metal salt, such as Li, Na, K, or an alkaline earth salt such as Be, Mg, Ca or a salt derived from an organic amine such as an alkylamine.

[0063] Even more preferably, in the formula above and R is a monohydroxylated aliphatic radical in C1-C4, acyclic, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, alkyl or alkenyl comprising from 0 to 1 unsaturation, optionally substituted by one or more carboxy substituents (-COOX”).

[0064] XO2C-R1-CO2X' (II)

[0065] in which:

[0066] -RI is a non-hydroxylated C1-C8, preferably C1-C6, cyclic or acyclic, preferably acyclic, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched aliphatic radical, comprising between 0 and 7 unsaturations, (double and / or triple bonds) and / or 0 to 2 cycles, optionally substituted by one or more carboxy substituents (-COOX”);

[0067] -X and X', X” independently represent a hydrogen atom, an ammonium salt, an alkali metal salt, such as Li, Na, K, or an alkaline earth salt such as Be, Mg, Ca or a salt derived from an organic amine such as an alkylamine,

[0068] carboxylic acids of formula (II) having a pKa of less than 4.25, preferably less than 4.

[0069] Preferably in the formula above, RI is a non-hydroxylated aliphatic radical in C1-C6, better still in C1-C4, better still in C1-C3, acyclic, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, comprising between 0 and 2 unsaturations, (double and / or triple bonds) optionally substituted by one or more substituents chosen from carboxy groups (-COOX”);

[0070] -X and X', X” independently represent a hydrogen atom, an ammonium salt, an alkali metal salt, such as Li, Na, K, or an alkaline earth salt such as Be, Mg, Ca or a salt derived from an organic amine such as an alkylamine.

[0071] Even more preferably, in formula (II) above and RI is a non-hydroxylated C1-C4 aliphatic radical, acyclic, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, alkyl or alkenyl comprising from 0 to 1 unsaturation, optionally substituted by one or more selected substituents, carboxy (-COOX”).

[0072] By “aliphatic radical” is meant a non-aromatic, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical which may be an open-chain hydrocarbon (linear or branched) or an alicyclic radical (i.e. comprising one or more non-aromatic cycles).

[0073] Preferably, the carboxylic acids according to the invention may be chosen from malonic acid, malic acid, citraconic acid, citric acid, maleic acid, succinic acid, fumaric acid, tricarballytic acid and / or their salts and their mixtures.

[0074] Preferably, the monohydroxylated polycarboxylic acids and the non-hydroxylated polycarboxylic acids having a pKa less than or equal to 4.25 are chosen from malonic acid, citric acid, malic acid, succinic acid, tricarboxylic acid and mixtures thereof; preferably chosen from citric acid, malic acid, and mixtures thereof. More particularly preferably, the carboxylic acid is citric acid.

[0075] The carboxylic acid(s) (b) may be present in the composition according to the invention in a total content ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, better still from 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0076] The molar ratio of urea and / or urea derivative / carboxylic acid (b) can vary from 0.5 to 10, preferably from 1 to 5, better still from 1.5 to 3.

[0077] The composition according to the invention also comprises one or more inorganic salts of multivalent cation (c).

[0078] The multivalent cation salts in accordance with the invention are preferably chosen from

[0079] - salts of alkaline earth cations such as Berylium, Magnesium, Calcium, from Strontium, from Barium;

[0080] - lanthanide salts such as cerium, lanthanum, ytterbium salts and of yttrium, preferably cerium.

[0081] Salts of multivalent cations can be anhydrous or hydrated.

[0082] Preferably, the multivalent cation salt(s) according to the invention are chosen from calcium halides (for example calcium iodide, calcium bromide, calcium chloride), magnesium halides, calcium carbonate, calcium sulfate, cerium halides (for example cerium chloride) and mixtures thereof.

[0083] More preferably, the multivalent cation salt(s) used in the composition according to the invention are calcium chloride, calcium carbonate, cerium chloride or mixtures thereof.

[0084] Even more preferably, the calcium salt used in the composition according to the invention is calcium chloride, in particular the dihydrate salt.

[0085] The inorganic salt(s) of multivalent cation c) may be present in the composition according to the invention in a total content ranging from 0.01 to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.02 to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0086] The composition according to the invention generally has a pH of 2 to 5, preferably of 3 to 4.

[0087] The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises water which advantageously represents from 10 to 95%, preferably from 40 to 90%, better still from 50 to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0088] The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more fatty substances.

[0089] By fatty substance is meant an organic compound insoluble in water at ordinary room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), having a solubility in water of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 1%, and even more preferably 0.1%.

[0090] Furthermore, fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, such as chloroform, ethanol, benzene, vaseline oil or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

[0091] The said fatty substance(s) which can be used in the composition according to the invention are preferably chosen from hydrocarbons, fatty alcohols, fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters, non-salified fatty acids, silicones and mixtures thereof.

[0092] The fatty substance(s) may be liquid or non-liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.

[0093] Said fatty substance(s) may represent from 0.001 to 90% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, even better still from 1 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0094] The composition may further comprise one or more water-soluble organic solvents (solubility greater than or equal to 5% in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure).

[0095] As a water-soluble organic solvent, mention may be made, for example, of monoalcohols or diols, linear or branched, preferably saturated, comprising 2 to 10 carbon atoms, such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, hexylene glycol (2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol), neopentyl glycol, 3-methyl-1,5-pentanediol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol; aromatic alcohols such as phenylethyl alcohol; polyols with more than two hydroxyl functions such as glycerol; polyol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or its ethers such as, for example, propylene glycol monomethyl ether; as well as alkyl ethers of di- ethylene glycol, in particular C1-C4, such as, for example, monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol, alone or in a mixture.

[0096] The water-soluble organic solvents, when present, generally represent between 1 and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention, and preferably between 5 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0097] The composition according to the invention may also contain one or more additives different from the compounds described above, chosen from the active ingredients and cosmetic adjuvants commonly used in the hair care field. These additives are chosen, for example, from fixing polymers, conditioning agents and in particular cationic polymers, silicones, chitosans and derivatives; UV filters, fillers such as nacres, titanium dioxide, resins, clays; perfumes, peptizers, vitamins, preservatives, acidic agents, alkaline agents, oxidants, amino acids, oligopeptides, peptides, hydrolyzed or unhydrolyzed proteins, modified or unmodified, enzymes, organic acids, antioxidants and free radical scavengers, chelating agents, anti-dandruff agents, seborrhea regulating agents, soothing agents, plasticizers, glitter, propellant gases. 。

[0098] The above additives may be present in an amount varying from 0.01 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0099] The composition according to the invention can be in the form of wax, paste, cream, gel, mousse, spray, lotion.

[0100] The present invention also relates to the use of the composition as defined according to the invention for smoothing / straightening and / or for reducing frizz in keratin fibers, preferably in hair, for controlling the volume of the hair.

[0101] Finally, the invention also relates to a treatment method, in particular for smoothing keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising:

[0102] (i) a step of applying to the keratin fibers the composition according to the invention, then;

[0103] (ii) optionally followed by the application of a shampoo composition and rinsing

[0104] (ii) optionally followed by a drying step

[0105] In a first embodiment, the composition according to the invention is applied to wet or dry hair, preferably wet, with or without a leave-on time. The bath ratio of the applied formulation can vary from 0.1 to 10, more particularly from 0.2 to 5. The keratin fibers are then wrung out or not, preferably wrung out.

[0106] The hair then undergoes, or does not undergo, one or more of the following operations: rinsing, shampooing and treatment with a rinse-out conditioning agent, drying, preferably using a hood or hair dryer.

[0107] Preferably, when an exposure time is implemented, said exposure time is preferably from 5 minutes to 1 hour, preferably from 10 to 45 minutes.

[0108] Preferably, the step of applying the composition according to the invention is followed by a rinsing step then the application of a shampoo composition and a shampoo rinse.

[0109] Preferably, the step of applying the composition according to the invention is followed by a rinsing step then drying preferably by means of a hood or a hair dryer.

[0110] By bath ratio is meant the ratio between the total weight of the composition applied and the total weight of keratin fibers to be treated.

[0111] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, presenting a limiting character.

[0112] Examples

[0113] The compositions were prepared by mixing the ingredients in the tables below. (the quantities are expressed as a percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition).

[0114] Example 1

[0115] [Tables 1] A (invention) BC Citric acid 9.6 9.6 urea 6 6 CaCO3 0.026 0.026 0.026 Sodium hydroxide qs pH 3.5 pH 3.5 Phosphoric acid qs pH 3.5 Water qs 100 100 100

[0116] The processing method used in these examples is as follows:

[0117] - Shampoo then dry the strands of hair studied,

[0118] - Application of one of the compositions in table 1 to damp hair (0.15g of product per g of hair)

[0119] - Exposure time: 30 minutes

[0120] - Rinsing

[0121] - shampoo

[0122] - Rinsing

[0123] - Hairdrying

[0124] Starting strands: Natural curly type IV Caucasian

[0125] The strands of hair then undergo 1 to 3 shampoos in order to evaluate the persistence over time of the smoothing processes, volume control, reduction of frizz, etc.

[0126] Results:

[0127] The quality of curl relaxation and volume control are visually assessed after one shampoo and after three shampoos.

[0128] The process with composition A according to the invention provides better curl relaxation as well as better volume control than the process with comparative compositions B and C not comprising the combination according to the invention.

[0129] In addition, the composition according to the invention makes it possible to provide better cosmetics to the hair. The strands are smoother to the touch, right down to the ends.

[0130] Example 2

[0131] [Tables3] Al (invention) B1 Cl Citric acid 9.6 9.6 Hydroxyethyl urea 10.4 10.4 CaCO3 0.026 0.026 0.026 Sodium hydroxide qs pH 3.5 pH 3.5 Phosphoric acid qs pH 3.5 Water qs 100 100 100

[0132] The processing method used in these examples is as follows:

[0133] - Shampoo then dry the strands of hair studied,

[0134] - Application of one of the compositions in Table 1 to damp hair (0.15g of product per g of hair)

[0135] - Exposure time: 30 minutes

[0136] - Rinsing

[0137] - shampoo

[0138] - Rinsing

[0139] - Hairdrying

[0140] Starting strands: Natural curly type IV Caucasian

[0141] The locks of hair then undergo 1 and 3 shampoos in order to evaluate the persistence over time of the straightening processes.

[0142] Results:

[0143] The quality of curl relaxation and volume control are visually assessed after one shampoo and after three shampoos.

[0144] The process with composition Al according to the invention provides better curl relaxation as well as better volume control than the process with comparative compositions B1 and Cl not comprising the association according to the invention.

[0145] Example 3

[0146] [Tables3] A2 (invention) B2 (invention) C2 invention D2 Citric acid 9.6 9.6 9.6 9.6 Hydroxyethyl urea 5.2 5.2 5.2 5.2 CaCl2 dihydrate 0.3 CeCl3 0.3 MgCl2 0.3 NaCl 0.3 Sodium hydroxide qs pH 3.5 pH 3.5 pH 3.5 pH 3.5 Water qs 100 100 100 100

[0147] The processing method used in these examples is as follows:

[0148] - Shampoo then dry the strands of hair studied,

[0149] - Application of one of the compositions in table 1 to damp hair (0.15g of product per g of hair)

[0150] - Exposure time: 30 minutes

[0151] -Rinsing

[0152] - shampoo

[0153] - Rinsing

[0154] - Hairdrying

[0155] Starting strands: Natural curly type IV Caucasian

[0156] The locks of hair then undergo 1 and 3 shampoos in order to evaluate the persistence over time of the straightening processes.

[0157] The quality of curl relaxation and volume control are visually assessed after one shampoo and after three shampoos.

[0158] Compositions A2, B2 and C2 according to the invention provide good curl relaxation as well as good volume control, whereas comparative composition D2 comprising a monovalent cation salt provides less good curl relaxation and less good volume control.

Claims

1. Claims Hair straightening / straightening / volume control process comprising: (i) a step of applying to the hair a composition comprising a) one or more compounds chosen from urea and / or urea derivatives of formula (I) or (II) their salts or their hydrates in an amount of between 1 and 20% by weight of the total weight of the composition; b) one or more carboxylic acids and / or their salts chosen from monohydroxylated polycarboxylic acids and non-hydroxylated polycarboxylic acids having at least one pKa less than or equal to 4.25, in an amount of between 1 and 20% by weight of the total weight of the composition; c) one or more inorganic salts of multivalent cations in an amount of between 0.01 and 1% by weight of the total weight of the composition, the pH of the composition varying from 2 to 5, and with a leave-on time of 5 min to 1 hour, followed ii) a rinse, iii) then possibly a shampoo and a rinse, followed iv) a drying step, (11) in which: - RI, R2, R3, R4 represent, independently: i. a hydrogen atom or ii. a linear or branched, cyclic or acyclic C1-C5 lower alkyl or alkenyl radical, a C1-C5 alkoxy radical, a C6-C18 aryl radical, a heterocyclic radical having 5 to 8 members; these radicals being optionally substituted by a radical chosen from the radicals: hydroxyl, (see text) (di)(C1-C4)(alkyl)amino, preferably dimethylamino, carboxyl, halogen, C6-C18 aryl, carboxamide and N-methylcarboxamide; it being understood that - when RI, R2 and R3 represent a hydrogen atom, R4 may denote a linear or branched lower C1-C5 alkyl or alkenyl radical optionally substituted by a hydroxyl, a carboxamide, methoxy, ethoxy, 1,2,4-triazolyl, cyclopentyl, (Ci-C6)alkylcarbonyl radical such as acetyl, (Ci-C6)alkoxycarbonyl such as methoxycarbonyl or ethoxycarbonyl, -CO-CH=CH-COOH, phenyl optionally substituted by a chlorine atom or a hydroxyl, benzyl or 2,5-dioxo-4-imidazolidinyl radical; - when RI and R3 represent a hydrogen atom, R2 can represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl or ethyl radical and R4 an acetyl radical; - when R1=R2=H, R3 and R4 can form, with the nitrogen atom which carries them, a piperidine, 3-methylpyrazole, 3,5-dimethylpyrazole or maleimide ring; - RI and R2 as well as R3 and R4 can form, with the nitrogen atom which carries them, an imidazole ring; - R5 and R6 represent, independently of each other, (iii) a hydrogen atom or (iv) a linear or branched, cyclic or acyclic C1-C5 alkyl, acyl, or lower alkenyl radical, a C1-C5 alkoxy radical, a C6-C18 aryl radical, a heterocyclic radical having 5 to 8 members; these radicals being optionally substituted by a radical chosen from the radicals: hydroxyl, amino, dimethylamino, carboxyl, halogen, C6-C18 aryl, carboxamide and N-methylcarboxamide; - A is a radical chosen from the radicals: CH2-CH2, CH=CH, ch2-co, co-nh, ch=n, co-co, choh-choh, (HOOC)CH-CH, CHOH-CO, CH2-CH2-CH2, CH2-NH-CO, CH=C(CH3)-CO, nh-co-nh, CH2-CH2-CO, CH2-N(CH3)-CH2, NH-CH2-NH, CO-CH(CH3)-CH2, co-ch2-co, co-NH-CO, CO-CH(COOH)-CH2, CO-CH=C(COOH), co-CH=C(CH3), CO-C(NH2)=CH, CO-C(CH3)=N, co-ch=ch, CO-CH=N and CO-N=CH.

2. Process according to claim 1 characterized in that the said compound(s) (a) are of formula (I) and are chosen from: urea, methylurea, ethylurea, propylurea, n-butylurea, sec-butylurea, isobutylurea, tert-butylurea, cyclopentylurea, ethoxyurea, hydroxyethylurea, N-(2-hydroxypropyl)urea, N-(3-hydroxypropyl)urea, N-(2-dimethylaminopropyl)urea, N-(3-dimethylaminopropyl)urea, l-(3-hydroxyphenyl)urea, benzylurea, N-carbamoyl maleamide, N-carbamoyl maleamic acid, piperidinecarboxamide, l,2,4-triazol-4-yl-urea, hydantoic acid, methyl allophanate, allophanate ethyl, acetylurea, hydroxyethyleneurea, 2-(hydroxyethyl)ethyleneurea, diallylurea, chloroethylurea, N,N-dimethylurea, N,N-diethylurea, N,N-dipropylurea, cyclopentyl-l-methylurea, 1,3-dimethylurea, 1,3-diethylurea, l,3-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)urea, l,3-bis(2-hydroxypropyl)urea, l,3-bis(3-hydroxypropyl)urea, 1,3-dipropylurea, ethyl-3-propylurea, sec-butyl-3-methylurea, isobutyl-3-methylurea, cyclopentyl-3-methylurea, N-acetyl-N'-methylurea, trimethylurea, butyl-3,3-dimethylurea, tetramethylurea and benzylurea.,

3. Process according to claim 1 characterized in that said compound(s) (a) are of formula (II) and are chosen from: para-rabanic acid, 1,2-dihydro-3H-1,2,4-triazol-2-one, barbituric acid, uracil, 1-methyl uracil, 3-methyl uracil, 5-methyl uracil, 1,3-dimethyl uracil, 5-aza uracil, 6-aza uracil, 5-fluoro uracil, 6-fluoro uracil, 1,3-dimethyl-5-fluoro uracil, 5-amino uracil, 6-amino uracil, 6-amino-1-methyl uracil, 6-amino-1,3-dimethyl uracil, 4-chloro uracil, 5-chloro uracil, 5,6-dihydro uracil, 5,6-dihydro-5-methyl uracil, 2-imidazolidone, l-methyl-2-imidazolidinone, 1,3-dimethyl-2-imidazolidinone, 4,5-dihydroxy-imidazolidin-2-one, l-(2-hydroxyethyl)-2-imidazolidinone, l-(2-hydroxypropyl)-2-imidazolidinone, l-(3-hydroxypropyl)-2-imidazolidinone, 4,5-dihydroxy-1,3-dimethyl-imidazolidin-2-one, 1,3-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-2-imidazolidinone,2-imidazolidone-4-carboxylic acid, l-(2-aminoethyl)-2-imidazole, 4-methyl-l,2,4-triazoline-3,5-dione, 2,4-dihydroxy-6-methylpyrimidine,

4.

5.

6. l-amino-4,5-dihydro-lH-tetrazol-5-one, hydantoin, 1-methylhydantoin, 5-methylhydantoin, 5,5-dimethylhydantoin, 5-ethylhydantoin, 5-n-propylhydantoin, 5-ethyl-5-methylhydantoin, 5-hydroxy-5-methylhydantoin, 5-hydroxymethylhydantoin, 1-allylhydantoin, 1-aminohydantoin, hydantoin 5-acetic acid, 4-amino-l,2,4-triazolone-3,5-dione, rhexahydro-l,2,4,5-tetrazine-3,6-dione, 5-methyl-l,3,5-triazinon-2-one, l-methyl-tetrahydro-pyrimidin-2-one, 2,4-dioxohexahydro-l,3,5-triazine, urazole, 4-methylurazole, orotic acid, dihydroxyorotic acid, 2,4,5-trihydroxypyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4-methylpyrimidine, 4,5-diamino-2,6-dihydroxypyrimidine, barbituric acid, 1,3-dimethylbarbituric acid, cyanuric acid, 1-methyl-hexahydropyrimidine-2,4-dione, l,3-dimethyl-3,4,5,6-tetrahydro-2-lH-pyrimidinone, 5-(hydroxymethyl-2,4-(lH,3H)-pyrimidinedione, 2,4-dihydroxypyrimidine-5-carboxylic acid,6-azathymine, 5-methyl-1,3,5-triazinan-2-one, N-carbamoylmaleamic acid and alloxan monohydrate., Process according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that said compound(s) (a) are chosen from urea, hydroxyethylurea, and mixtures thereof. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said compound(s) (a) represent in total from 2 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said compound(s) (b) carboxylic acids according to the invention are chosen from the compounds of formula (I) and / or (II) following: XO2C-R-CO2X' (I) in which: -R is a CrC8, preferably Ci-C6, monohydroxylated aliphatic radical, cyclic or acyclic, preferably acyclic, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, comprising between 0 and 7 unsaturations, (double and / or triple bonds) and / or 0 to 2 cycles and optionally substituted by one or more carboxy substituents (-COOX”); -X and X', X” independently represent a hydrogen atom, a ammonium salt, an alkali metal salt, such as Li, Na, K, or an alkaline earth salt such as Be, Mg, Ca or a salt derived from an organic amine such as an alkylamine, XO2C-R1-CO2X' (II) in which: -RI is a non-hydroxylated aliphatic radical in CrC8, preferably in Ci-C6, cyclic or acyclic, preferably acyclic, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, comprising between 0 and 7 unsaturations, (double and / or triple bonds) and / or 0 to 2 rings, optionally substituted by one or more carboxy substituents (-COOX”); -X and X', X” independently represent a hydrogen atom, an ammonium salt, an alkali metal salt, such as Li, Na, K, or an alkaline earth salt such as Be, Mg, Ca or a salt derived from an organic amine such than an alkylamine, the carboxylic acids of formula (II) having a pKa of less than 4.25, preferably less than 4.

7. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said compound(s) (b) are chosen from malonic acid, citric acid, malic acid, succinic acid, tricarballylic acid and mixtures thereof, preferably chosen from citric acid, malic acid, more particularly citric acid.

8. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said compound(s) (b) represent from 2 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the multivalent cation salts in accordance with the invention are chosen from: alkaline earth cation salts such as Berylium, Magnesium, Calcium, Strontium, Barium salts; lanthanide salts such as cerium, lanthanum, yttrium and ytterbium salts, preferably cerium salts.

10. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the multivalent cation salts in accordance with the invention c) are chosen from calcium halides, magnesium halides, calcium carbonate, calcium sulfate, cerium halides and mixtures thereof, preferably calcium chloride, calcium carbonate, cerium chloride and mixtures thereof.

11. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said compound(s) (c) represent from 0.02 to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said composition has a pH ranging from 3 to 4.

13. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said composition comprises one or more fatty substances.

14. Method according to any one of the preceding claims comprising: i. a step of applying to wet hair the composition as defined in claims 1 to 13; with a leave-on time of between 10 and 45 min, followed by ii. rinsing, then iii) shampooing and rinsing, then iv) drying.

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