Wax-in-water emulsion(s) with a non-volatile, non-polar hydrocarbon oil, a base-neutralized C12-C20 monoalkyl phosphate, a fatty alcohol, a pullulan, a latex, and a pigment

Abstract

Title: Wax-in-water emulsion with a non-polar, non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, a C12-C20 monoalkyl phosphate neutralized by a base, a fatty alcohol, a pullulan, a latex, and a pigment. This application relates to a skincare and / or makeup composition for keratinous materials, such as skin, particularly the eye contour, eyelash contour, and eyebrow contour; keratinous fibers such as eyelashes and eyebrows, in the form of an emulsion, particularly wax-in-water, comprising, preferably in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) an aqueous phase, and b) at least one oily phase dispersed in the aqueous phase, comprising i) at least one wax; and ii) at least one non-polar, non-volatile hydrocarbon oil; and iii) at least one fatty alcohol; etc.; at least one C12-C20 monoalkyl phosphate, partially or totally neutralized by a base; and d) at least one pullulan.ete) film-forming polymer particles suspended in the aqueous phase; etf) at least one pigment;

Description

Title of the invention: Wax-in-water emulsion(s) with a non-volatile, non-polar hydrocarbon oil, a base-neutralized C12-C20 monoalkyl phosphate, a fatty alcohol, a pullulan, a latex, and a pigment

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of care and / or makeup of keratin fibers, and aims to offer compositions more particularly dedicated to the makeup of eyelashes or eyebrows.

[0002] The composition used may, in particular, be in the form of an eyelash product such as mascara, or an eyebrow product. More preferably, the invention relates to mascara. "Mascara" refers to a composition intended to be applied to eyelashes: this may be an eyelash makeup composition, an eyelash makeup base (also called a base coat), a composition to be applied over mascara, also called a top coat, or even a cosmetic eyelash treatment composition. Mascara is intended more particularly for human eyelashes, but also for false eyelashes.

[0003] Mascara-type keratin fiber coating compositions generally consist of at least one oily phase, usually composed of one or more waxes dispersed in an aqueous liquid phase by means of an emulsifying system or carried in an organic solvent. These compositions generally have a specific color effect, most often black.

[0004] This color effect allows users to enhance the intensity of their gaze by giving maximum visibility to their eyelashes. The intensity then comes partly from the amount of mascara applied to the eyelashes and partly from the intensity of the black mascara.

[0005] The intensity of the black of a mascara formula is then the result of different parameters, coming essentially from the nature of the pigment used, the content at which it is implemented and the quality of its dispersion.

[0006] However, European regulatory developments will soon tend to restrict the variety of black pigments available for coloring mascaras. It is therefore desirable to have a solution that improves the color intensity of mascaras, regardless of the coloring system used and, in particular, regardless of the pigments used.

[0007] Patent FR2975005B1 proposed mascara compositions in the form of a wax-in-water emulsion comprising at least one particular wax obtainable by, or resulting from the copolymerization of, one or more alkene monomer(s) (or olefin) in CrC4 such as that with the INCI name ETHYLENE COPOLYMER / ACRYLIC ACID and sold under the reference ASENSA SC 401® by the company HONEYWELL. The example describes a composition comprising at least said wax, the anionic surfactant in neutralized form Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, an aqueous dispersion of acrylic film-forming polymer (latex), hydroxyethylcellulose and acacia gum.

[0008] Also proposed in patent application WO2021249886 are aqueous mascara compositions comprising an aqueous phase, a waxy phase based on a fatty acid monoester wax having at least 40 carbon atoms such as Behenyl Behenate (C44), an anionic surfactant of the fatty acid type neutralized by a base and a semi-crystalline polymer.

[0009] Mascara compositions in the form of a wax-in-water emulsion comprising waxes, at least one aqueous dispersion of acrylic film-forming polymer (latex), the anionic surfactant in neutralized form Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Pullulane and an acacia gum are known on the market, such as the product Fortifying Length & Curl Mascara with Vitamins B3-B6 and Acacia Gum® from Laboratoires Dr Pierre Ricaud.

[0010] However, these compositions, after application to keratin fibers such as eyelashes and eyebrows, are not fully satisfactory in terms of coverage and / or intensity of the color obtained, in particular black.

[0011] There remains a need to find new compositions for coating keratin fibers, in particular eyelashes and eyebrows in the form of wax-based emulsions to achieve this objective.

[0012] Unexpectedly, the inventors discovered that this objective could be achieved with a skincare and / or makeup composition of keratinous materials, such as eyelashes and eyebrows, in the form of a wax(s) emulsion in water, preferably comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) an aqueous phase, and b) an oily phase dispersed in the aqueous phase comprising (i) at least one wax; and (ii) at least one non-polar hydrocarbon non-volatile oil; and iii) at least one fatty alcohol; and c) at least one mono-alkyl phosphate group in the form Ci2-C2O, partially or totally neutralized by a base; and d) at least one pullulan; and e) film-forming polymer particles suspended in the aqueous phase; and f) at least one pigment.

[0013] This discovery is the basis of the invention. Objects of the invention

[0014] Thus, according to one of its aspects, the present invention relates to a skincare and / or makeup composition for keratinous materials, such as skin, particularly the eye contour, eyelash contour, and eyebrow contour; keratinous fibers such as eyelashes and eyebrows, in the form of an emulsion, particularly wax-in-water, preferably comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) an aqueous phase, and b) at least one oily phase dispersed in the aqueous phase comprising i) at least one wax; and ii) at least one non-volatile, non-polar hydrocarbon oil; and iii) at least one fatty alcohol; and c) at least one mono-alkyl phosphate group in the form Ci2-C2O, partially or totally neutralized by a base; and d) at least one pullulan; and e) film-forming polymer particles suspended in the aqueous phase; and f) at least one pigment.

[0015] A second object of the present invention is a cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of human keratinous materials, such as skin, in particular the eye contour, the eyelash contour, the eyebrow contour; keratinous fibers such as eyelashes and eyebrows, consisting of applying to said keratinous materials a composition as defined above. Definitions

[0016] In the context of the present invention, "keratinous material" refers in particular to the skin, including the eye contour, the eyelash contour, and the eyebrow contour; and to keratinous fibers such as eyelashes and eyebrows. The term "keratinous fibers," as used in the present invention, also extends to synthetic false eyelashes.

[0017] By "physiologically acceptable" is meant compatible with the skin and / or its appendages, which has a pleasant color, odor and feel and which does not generate unacceptable discomforts (tingling, pulling), likely to deter the consumer from using this composition.

[0018] For the purposes of this invention, "emulsion" means any composition comprising a continuous aqueous phase in which the oily phase (wax(s) + oil(s)) is dispersed in the form of droplets so as to form a composition that is macroscopically homogeneous to the naked eye. Aqueous phase

[0019] A composition according to the invention comprises water.

[0020] The aqueous phase is understood to be a phase comprising water, thus that possibly all solvents and ingredients soluble or miscible in water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25°C) such as lower monoalcohols having 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol, glycols having 3 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, dipropylene glycol.

[0021] The aqueous phase may contain demineralized water, or floral water such as cornflower water and / or mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water and / or thermal water.

[0022] In particular, a composition according to the invention comprises at least 30.0% by weight, better at least 40.0% by weight, or even a content of 50 to 60% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition. Fatty phase

[0023] A composition according to the invention comprises at least one fatty phase containing: (i) at least one wax other than C40-C48 monoesters of linear saturated fatty acids; and ii) at least one non-volatile, non-polar hydrocarbon oil iii) at least one fatty alcohol.

[0024] The term "fat phase" means a phase comprising at least one fat substance such as a wax, an oil, a paste, and optionally all solvents and ingredients soluble or miscible in said fat phase (miscibility greater than 50% by weight at 25 °C). Such a fat phase is a non-aqueous organic phase and is immiscible with water. i. Waxes

[0025] The fatty phase according to the invention comprises at least one wax

[0026] The term “waxes” means lipophilic compounds, solid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), with reversible solid / liquid change of state, having a melting point greater than or equal to 40°C and up to 120°C.

[0027] For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "DSC Q2000" by TA Instruments.

[0028] The waxes used in the compositions of the invention are formed from complex mixtures and in particular described in the document Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry 2015, Wiley-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co. KGaA.

[0029] Waxes according to the invention, in particular, are distinct from fatty alcohols iii) such as cetyl alcohol, steryl alcohol or mixtures thereof, as well as C40-C48 monoesters of saturated linear fatty acids, and more particularly those corresponding to the following formula (1):

[0030] [Chem.l] Ri-O-R2

[0031] (1) in which Ri and R2 are linear and saturated and possess, independently of each other, a number of carbon atoms ranging from 20 to 24, with Ri representing an acyl radical, and R2 representing an alkyl radical, in particular chosen from arachidyl arachidate and behenyl behenate.

[0032] The waxes used in the compositions of the invention may in particular be natural but also synthetic.

[0033] By “natural” wax, we mean any wax that pre-exists in nature or that can be transformed, extracted or purified from natural compounds existing in nature.

[0034] Among natural waxes, we can notably mention fossil waxes, including those of petroleum origin such as ozocerite and pyropissite; macrocrystalline waxes, also called paraffins—including raw waxes or gatsch, gatsch raffinates, defatted gatsch, soft waxes, semi-refined waxes, filtered waxes, and refined waxes—and microcrystalline waxes, also called microwaxes, including bright stock gatsch. Fossil waxes also include lignite, also called montan wax, or peat wax.

[0035] Natural waxes other than fossil waxes include animal and vegetable waxes.

[0036] Examples of vegetable waxes include carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricuri wax, sugar cane wax, jojoba wax, Trithrinax campestris wax, raffia wax, alfalfa wax, Douglas fir wax, sisal wax, linseed wax, cotton wax, Batavia dammar wax, cereal wax, tea wax, coffee wax, rice wax, palm wax, Japanese wax, mixtures and derivatives thereof.

[0037] As an example of animal waxes, we can cite beeswax, Ghedda wax, shellac, Chinese wax, lanolin also called wool wax, their mixtures and their derivatives.

[0038] These waxes are generally multi-component. For example, natural beeswax is composed of approximately 70% esters, the majority of which are monoesters (of fatty acids and fatty alcohols), but also hydroxy-esters, di- and tri-esters, and sterol esters, as well as long-chain linear hydrocarbons and free acids. and free alcohols. For obvious reasons, the weight proportion of their ingredients and their degree of purity are difficult to guarantee from one production batch to another.

[0039] By “synthetic” wax, we mean waxes whose synthesis requires one or more chemical reactions conducted by man.

[0040] Among synthetic waxes, a distinction can be made between semi-synthetic and fully synthetic waxes. Synthetic waxes can be waxes obtained by a Fischer-Tropsch process, consisting, for example, of paraffins with a number of carbon atoms ranging from 20 to 50, or polyolefin waxes, for example, homo- or copolymers of ethylene, propene, or butene, or even of longer-chain α-olefins. The latter can be obtained by thermomechanical degradation of polyethylene plastic, by the Ziegler process, by high-pressure processes, or even via processes catalyzed by metallocene species. These waxes can be crystallizable, partially crystallizable, or amorphous.The aforementioned synthetic waxes are generally non-polar and can be chemically treated to obtain polar waxes, for example by one or more of the following reactions: oxidation in air, grafting, esterification, neutralization by metallic soaps, amidation, direct copolymerizations or addition reactions.

[0041] According to a preferred method, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one wax selected from - white beeswax with INCI names: WHITE BEEWAX or CERA ALBA, such as the commercial product CERABEIL LOR® sold by the company BAERLOCHER; - a synthetic beeswax with INCI name: SYNTHETIC BEEWAX such as the commercial product CYCLOCHEM 330® from the company EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT - camauba wax with INCI name: COPERNICIA CERIFERA (CARNAUBA) WAX / COPERNICIA CERIFERA CERA) such as the product CERAUBA Tl® sold by the company BAERLOCHER; - mixtures of paraffin waxes and hydrocarbon waxes with INCI name PARAFFIN such as the commercial product SASOLWAX 5603® sold by the company SASOL; and their mixtures.

[0042] The wax(s) according to the invention may be present at a content greater than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at 7% by weight, or even at 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, it / they are present at a content ranging from 12 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 14 to 35%, and even more preferably from 16 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. ii) Non-volatile, non-polar hydrocarbon oil

[0043] The oily phase according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oil.

[0044] The term "nonpolar hydrocarbon oil" means an oil containing exclusively hydrogen and carbon atoms.

[0045] By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the skin or keratin fiber at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and having, in particular, a vapor pressure of less than 2.66 Pa, preferably less than 0.13 Pa. By way of example, the vapor pressure can be measured according to the static method or by the isothermal thermogravimetric effusion method, according to the vapor pressure (OECD standard 104).

[0046] Examples of non-volatile hydrocarbon oils usable in the compositions of the invention include linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin such as - paraffin oils and their derivatives; - Vaseline; - polydecenes, polybutenes; hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as Parleam; - squalane, - their mixtures.

[0047] In particular, a polybutene such as the commercial product INDOPOL H 1500® from the company INEOS will be used.

[0048] According to a preferred embodiment, the content of non-volatile, non-polar hydrocarbon oil(s) in the composition according to the invention varies from 0.1 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1 to 5% by weight, and preferably from 1.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. iii) Fatty alcohol

[0049] The oily phase according to the invention comprises at least one fatty alcohol.

[0050] The fatty alcohol(s) is / are in particular chosen from among the fatty alcohols linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, in Ci4-C30, preferably in Ci4-C24, and even better in Ci4-C20.

[0051] According to a particularly preferred mode, the fatty alcohol is in the form of a mixture of several different fatty alcohols, preferably a mixture of several linear and saturated fatty alcohols in Ci4-C30, better in Ci4-C24, even better in Ci4-C20.

[0052] Preferably, the fatty alcohol according to the invention is selected from cetyl alcohol (C16), stearic alcohol (C8), and mixtures thereof (also called "cetearyl alcohol"). Preferably, the fatty alcohol according to the invention is a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearic alcohol. Such a mixture is notably marketed under the name Lannette O OR / MB® by BASF.

[0053] According to a preferred embodiment, the fatty alcohol is solid at room temperature.

[0054] Fatty alcohol is present in the compositions of the invention in quantities ranging from 1.0 to 20.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 2.0 to 15.0% by weight, and even more particularly from 3.0 to 10.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. C12-C20 mono-alkyl phosphate

[0055] The composition of the invention comprises at least one anionic surfactant of the type of monoalkyl phosphate in Ci2-C2o partially or totally neutralized by a base.

[0056] The term "mono-alkyl" means that the phosphate group is associated with a single alkyl chain in the form of Ci2-C2O, unless otherwise specified. The mono-alkyl phosphate(s) (including phosphine oxide(s)) usable in the compositions according to this application is / are selected from mono-alkyl phosphates in the form of Ci4-C2O, preferably Ci6-Ci8, and mixtures thereof.

[0057] Preferably, they are chosen from mono-cetyl phosphate, mono-stearyl phosphate and mono-cetearyl phosphate.

[0058] According to a first variant, the base is at least an organic base.

[0059] Preferably, the organic base is chosen from amino acids such as arginine; alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, tri-isopropanolamine, aminomethyl propanol; primary (poly)hydroxyalkylamines such as 2-amino-2-(hydroxymethyl)propane-1,3-diol (also called tromethamine) and aminomethylpropanediol; and mixtures thereof.

[0060] According to a second variant, the base is at least an inorganic base.

[0061] This inorganic base is preferably chosen from alkali metal hydroxides and ammonium (NH4+).

[0062] Preferably, the inorganic base is chosen from potassium hydroxide.

[0063] In particular, the anionic surfactant will be used in its neutral form tralized by potash (KOH) namely the potassium salt of mono-cetyl phosphate, INCI name POTASSIUM CETYL PHOSPHATE for example marketed under the names Amphisol K® and Amphisol A® of the company DSM NU-TRITIONAL PRODUCTS), ARLATONE MAP® of the company Uniqema and CRODAFOS MCA® of the company Croda.

[0064] According to a preferred mode, the content of monoalkyl phosphate(s) ranges from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Pullulane

[0065] The composition of the invention comprises at least one pullulan.

[0066] Pullulan according to the invention is a polysaccharide composed of maltotriose units, known as α-(1,4)-α(1,6)-glucan. Three glucose units in the maltotriose are linked by a glycosidic bond at α-(1,4), while consecutive maltotriose units are linked to each other by a glycosidic bond at α-(1,6). It is produced from starch by the fungus Aureo-basidium Pullulans. Pullulan is, for example, produced under the trade name PULLULAN PF 20® by the Hayashibara Group in Japan or under the trade name AQUA BETA® by Daiso, Co., Ltd.

[0067] According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, pullulan is present in the composition in a content varying from 1 to 7% by weight, preferably from 1 to 6% by weight, or even preferably from 2 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Suspended film-forming polymer particles

[0068] The composition of the present invention comprises at least film-forming polymer particles suspended in the aqueous phase.

[0069] In this application, "film-forming polymer" means a polymer capable of forming, either alone or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a continuous deposit on a support, at a temperature ranging from 20 °C to 150 °C.

[0070] Said solid particles of film-forming polymer can either be used as such and are suspended in the aqueous phase of the composition or in the form of particles in aqueous dispersion.

[0071] According to a particular formulation of the invention, the water-dispersible film-forming polymer can be in the form of an aqueous dispersion of particles generally referred to as (pseudo)latex, i.e., latex or pseudo-latex. The techniques for preparing these dispersions are well known to those skilled in the art.

[0072] The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more types of particles, these particles being able to vary in their size, structure and / or chemical nature.

[0073] The film-forming polymer suspended in the aqueous phase is preferably present in a dry matter content of 1 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, and more particularly from 2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0074] These solid particles can be of anionic, cationic or neutral nature and can constitute a mixture of solid particles of different natures.

[0075] Among the film-forming polymers that can be used in the composition of the present invention, we can mention synthetic polymers, of the radical type or of the poly- type Condensates, naturally occurring polymers and their mixtures. Generally speaking, these polymers can be statistical polymers, AB-type block copolymers, A-BA or ABCD multiblock copolymers, or even grafted polymers. a. Film-forming radical polymer

[0076] By "radical polymer", we mean a polymer obtained by polymerization of monomers with unsaturation in particular ethylenic, each monomer being capable of homopolymerizing (unlike polycondensates).

[0077] Radical-type film-forming polymers may include homopolymers or copolymers, acrylic and / or vinyl.

[0078] Vinyl film-forming polymers can result from the polymerization of ethylenically unsaturated monomers having at least one acid group and / or esters of these acid monomers and / or amides of these acid monomers.

[0079] As monomers with ethylenic unsaturation having at least one acid group or monomer bearing an acid group, unsaturated α,[3-ethylenic] carboxylic acids such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid, and itaconic acid may be used. In particular, (meth)acrylic acid and crotonic acid are used, and more specifically (meth)acrylic acid.

[0080] Acid monomer esters are advantageously chosen from among the esters of (meth)acrylic acid (also called (meth)acrylates), in particular alkyl (meth)acrylates, especially alkyl in Ci-C20, more particularly in Ci-C8, aryl (meth)acrylates, especially aryl in C6-Ci0, hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylates, especially hydroxyalkyl in C2-C6.

[0081] Among the alkyl (meth)acrylates, we can mention methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, ethyl-2-hexyl methacrylate, lauryl methacrylate.

[0082] Among the hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylates, we can mention hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate.

[0083] Among the aryl (meth)acrylates, we can mention benzyl acrylate and phenyl acrylate.

[0084] Esters of (meth)acrylic acid are in particular alkyl (meth)acrylates.

[0085] According to the present invention, the alkyl group of the esters can be either fluorinated or perfluorinated, that is to say that part or all of the hydrogen atoms of the alkyl group are substituted by fluorine atoms.

[0086] Examples of amides of acidic monomers include (meth)acrylamides, and in particular N-alkyl (meth)acrylamides, especially those with a C2-Ci2 alkyl group. Examples of N-alkyl (meth)acrylamides include N-ethyl acrylamide, Nt-butyl acrylamide, and Nt-octyl acrylamide.

[0087] Vinyl film-forming polymers can also result from the homopolymerization or copolymerization of monomers selected from vinyl esters and styrene monomers. In particular, these monomers can be polymerized with acid monomers and / or their esters and / or their amides, such as those mentioned above.

[0088] Examples of vinyl esters include vinyl acetate, vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl pivalate, vinyl benzoate and vinyl t-butyl benzoate.

[0089] Examples of styrene monomers include styrene and alpha-methylstyrene.

[0090] The list of monomers given is not exhaustive and it is possible to use any monomer known to a person skilled in the art falling within the categories of acrylic and vinyl monomers (including monomers modified by a silicone chain).

[0091] We can also mention polymers resulting from the radical polymerization of one or more radical monomers, inside and / or partially on the surface of pre-existing particles of at least one polymer chosen from the group consisting of polyurethanes, polyureas, polyesters, polyesteramides and / or alkyds. These polymers are generally called "hybrid polymers". a. Polycondensate

[0092] As a film-forming polymer of the polycondensate type, one may mention anionic, cationic, non-ionic or amphoteric polyurethanes, acrylic polyurethanes, polyvinylpyrrolidone polyurethanes, polyester polyurethanes, polyether polyurethanes, polyureas, polyurea / polyurethanes, silicone polyurethanes, and their mixtures.

[0093] The film-forming polyurethane may be, for example, a polyurethane, polyurea / urethane, or polyurea copolymer, aliphatic, cycloaliphatic, or aromatic, comprising alone or in a mixture at least one sequence selected from: - a sequence of aliphatic and / or cycloaliphatic and / or aromatic polyester origin, and / or - a silicone sequence, branched or unbranched, for example polydimethylsiloxane or polymethylphenylsiloxane, and / or - a sequence containing fluorinated groups.

[0094] Film-forming polyurethanes as defined in the invention can also be obtained from polyesters, branched or unbranched, or from alkyds comprising mobile hydrogens which are modified by reaction with a diisocyanate and a bifunctional organic compound (for example dihydro, diamino or hydroxyamino), further comprising either a carboxylic acid or carboxylate group, or a sulfonic acid or sulfonate group, or even a neutralizable tertiary amine group or a quaternary ammonium group.

[0095] Among the film-forming polycondensates, we can also mention polyesters, amide polyesters, fatty chain polyesters, polyamides, and epoxy ester resins.

[0096] Polyesters can be obtained, in a known manner, by polycondensation of dicarboxylic acids with polyols, in particular diols.

[0097] Dicarboxylic acid can be aliphatic, alicyclic or aromatic. Examples of such acids include: oxalic acid, malonic acid, dhnetylmalonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, 2,2-dimethylglutaric acid, azelaic acid, suberic acid, sebacic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid, phthalic acid, dodecanedioic acid, 1,3-cyclohexanedicarbocylic acid, 1,4-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,5-norborane dicarboxylic acid, diglycolic acid, thiodipropionic acid, 2,5-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid, and... 2,6-Naphthalene-dicarboxylic acid. These dicarboxylic acid monomers can be used alone or in combination with at least two other dicarboxylic acid monomers. Phthalic acid, isophthalic acid, and terephthalic acid are particularly suitable among these monomers.

[0098] The diol can be chosen from aliphatic, alicyclic, or aromatic diols. In particular, a diol chosen from the following is used: ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, cyclohexane dimethanol, and 4-butanediol. Other polyols that can be used include glycerol, pentaerythritol, sorbitol, and trimethylol propane.

[0099] Polyester amides can be obtained in a manner analogous to polyesters, by polycondensation of diacids with diamines or amino alcohols. Ethylenediamine, hexamethylenediamine, or meta- or para-phenylenediamine can be used as diamines. Monoethanolamine can be used as an amino alcohol. a. Naturally occurring polymer

[0100] The present invention may use polymers of natural origin, possibly modified, such as shellac resin, sandarac gum, dammars, elemis, copals, water-insoluble cellulosic polymers such as nitrocellulose, modified cellulose esters including in particular carboxyalkyl cellulose esters such as those described in US patent application 2003 / 185774, and mixtures thereof.

[0101] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, said at least one film-forming polymer in dispersed form is selected from acrylic polymer dispersions, polyurethane dispersions, sulfopolyester dispersions, vinyl dispersions, polyvinyl acetate dispersions, vinyl pyrrolidone terpolymer dispersions, dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide and lauryldimethylpropyl chloride- methacrylamidoammonium, polyurethane / polyacrylic hybrid polymer dispersions, core-shell type particle dispersions and their mixtures.

[0102] Different types of aqueous dispersions, including commercial ones, suitable for preparing the composition according to the present invention are detailed below.

[0103] Thus, according to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the aqueous dispersion of polymer particles is an aqueous dispersion of acrylic polymer.

[0104] The acrylic polymer may be a styrene / acrylate copolymer, and in particular a polymer selected from copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one styrenic monomer and at least one CrCi8 alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer. Styrene or alpha-methylstyrene, and in particular styrene, may be used as examples of styrenic monomers in the invention. The CrCi8 alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer is in particular a CrC12 alkyl (meth)acrylate, and more particularly a Ci-Ci0 alkyl (meth)acrylate. The alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer in Ci-Ci8 can be selected from methyl acrylate, methyl methacrylate, ethyl acrylate, propyl acrylate, butyl acrylate, butyl methacrylate, hexyl acrylate, octyl acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl acrylate, lauryl (meth)acrylate and stearyl (meth)acrylate.

[0105] As an aqueous dispersion of acrylic polymer, aqueous dispersions of acrylic polymer with INCI name ACRYLATES COPOLYMER can be used, such as those sold under the names* Epitex 66 Copolymer® by Dow Chemical, Acronal DS-6250® by BASF, Neocryl A-45®, Neocryl XK-90®, Neocryl A-1070®, Neocryl A-1090®, Neocryl BT-62®, Neocryl A-1079® and Neocryl A-523® by DSM, Joncryl 95®, Joncryl 8211® by BASF, and Daitosol 5000 ADO. - aqueous dispersions of acrylic polymer with INCI name ACRYLATES / ETHYLHEXYL ACRYLATE COPOLYMER such as that sold under the name "Daitosol 5000 SJ®" by the company DAITO KASEY KOGYO; - aqueous dispersions of acrylic polymer with INCI name STYRENE / ACRYLATES / AMMONIUM METHACRYLATE such as that sold under the name "Syntran 5760 CG®" by the company Interpolymer.

[0106] According to another embodiment of the invention, the aqueous dispersion of polymer particles is an aqueous dispersion of polyester-polyurethane and / or polyether-polyurethane particles, in particular anionic. The anionic character of the polyester-polyurethanes and polyether-polyurethanes used according to the invention is due to the presence in their constituent units of groups with carboxylic acid or sulfonic acid functionalities. The polyester-poly particles Urethane or polyether-polyurethane used according to the invention are generally commercially available as aqueous dispersions.

[0107] The particle content of said dispersions currently available on the market ranges from about 20% to about 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the dispersion.

[0108] Among the anionic polyester-polyurethane dispersions usable in aqueous varnishes according to the invention, one can mention in particular that marketed under the name "Avalure UR 405®" by the company NOVEON.

[0109] Among the anionic polyether-polyurethane particle dispersions that can be used according to the invention, we can mention in particular those marketed under the name "Avalure UR 450®" by the company NOVEON, and under the name "Néorez R 970®" by the company DSM.

[0110] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, a mixture of commercial dispersions consisting of anionic polyester-polyurethane particles as defined above and anionic polyether-polyurethane particles also defined above can be used.

[0111] For example, a mixture can be used consisting of the dispersion marketed under the name "Sancure 861®" or a mixture of that marketed under the name "Avalure UR 405®" and that marketed under the name "Avalure UR 450®", these dispersions being marketed by the company NOVEON.

[0112] As solid particles of film-forming polymer according to the invention, the following may be used more preferably:

[0113] - aqueous dispersions of acrylic polymer (INCI name: ACRYLATES) COPOLYMER) sold under the names "Epitex 66 Copolymer®" by Dow Chemical, "Acronal DS-6250®" by BASF, "Neocryl A-45Ô", "Neocryl XK-90Ô", "Neocryl A-1070Ô", "Neocryl A-1090Ô", "Neocryl BT-62Ô", "Neocryl A-1079Ô" and "Neocryl A-523Ô" by DSM, "Joncryl 95®", "Joncryl 8211®" by BASF, "Daitosol 5000 ADÔ" or "Daitosol 5000 SJ®" (INCI name: ACRYLATES / ETHYLHEXYL ACRYLATE COPOLYMER) by DAITO KASEY KOGYO; “Syntran 5760 CG®” (INCI name: STYRENE / ACRYLATES / AMMONIUM METHACRYLATE COPOLYMER) by Interpolymer, - aqueous polyurethane dispersions sold under the names "Neorez R-981Ô" and "Neorez R-974Ô" by DSM, "Avalure UR-4050", "Avalure UR-410Ô", "Avalure UR-425Ô", "Avalure UR-450Ô", "Sancure 8750", "Avalure UR 4450", "Avalure UR 4500" by NOVEON, "Impranil 85Ô" by BAYER, - sulfopolyesters such as those sold under the brand name "Eastman AQO" by Eastman Chemical Products, - vinyl dispersions such as "Mexomer PAM®", aqueous dispersions of polyvinyl acetate such as "VinybranO" from Nisshin Chemical or those marketed by UNION CARBIDE, aqueous dispersions of vinyl pyrrolidone ter-polymer, dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide and lau-ryldimethylpropyl methacrylamidoammonium chloride such as "Styleze WO"-d'ISP, - aqueous dispersions of polyurethane / polyacrylic hybrid polymers such as those marketed under the references "Hybridur O" by AIR PRODUCTS or "Duromer Ô" by NATIONAL STARCH.

[0114] According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention is an aqueous dispersion of acrylic film-forming polymer with INCI name: ACRYLATES COPOLYMER such as the commercial product "Epitex 66 Copolymer®" sold by Dow Chemical. Pigment

[0115] A composition according to the invention, and in particular those dedicated to makeup, generally comprises at least one pigment.

[0116] The term “pigment” means a powdery material, also called a particulate material, consisting of white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous medium, intended to color and / or opacify the composition and / or the resulting film. These pigments may be white or colored, mineral and / or organic.

[0117] Pigments may be white or colored, mineral and / or organic, coated or uncoated. Examples of mineral pigments include titanium dioxide, possibly surface-treated, zirconium, zinc, or cerium oxides, as well as iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, and ferric blue. Examples of organic pigments include carbon black, D & C type pigments, and lakes based on carmine, cochineal, barium, strontium, calcium, and aluminum.

[0118] The pigments may be pearlescent pigments, in particular chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as titanium-coated mica or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with in particular ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

[0119] Preferably, the pigment is selected from metallic oxides, in particular titanium dioxides, iron oxides and mixtures thereof; and more particularly black iron oxides (CI 77499).

[0120] Preferably, the pigment(s) is / are present in the composition in a content ranging from 2.0 to 25.0% by weight, preferably from 3.0% to 20.0% by weight, plus particularly from 4.0 to 15.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Other components

[0121] 1 / Additional water-soluble film-forming polymers

[0122] According to a particular mode, the composition according to the invention may in addition contain at least one additional water-soluble film-forming polymer, namely different from pullulan.

[0123] Examples of water-soluble film-forming polymers include - proteins such as plant-based proteins like wheat and soy proteins; animal-based proteins such as keratins, for example keratin hydrolysates and sulfonic keratins; - cellulose polymers such as hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, methylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, as well as quaternized cellulose derivatives; - acrylic polymers or copolymers, such as polyacrylates or polymethacrylates; - vinyl polymers, such as polyvinylpyrrolidones, methyl vinyl ether and malic anhydride copolymers, vinyl acetate and crotonic acid copolymer, vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate copolymers; vinylpyrrolidone and caprolactam copolymers; polyvinyl alcohol; - anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic chitin or chitosan polymers, - arabic gums, guar gum, xanthan gum derivatives, karaya gum; - alginates and carrageenans; - glycosaminoglycans, hyaluronic acid and its derivatives; - shellac resin, sandarac gum, dammars, elemis, copals; - deoxyribonucleic acid; - muccopolysaccharides such as chondroitin sulfate,

[0124] - mixtures thereof.

[0125] Preferably, an additional water-soluble film-forming polymer is chosen from cellulose polymers, gum arabic and mixtures thereof.

[0126] More specifically, a mixture of hydroxyethylcellulose and gum arabic will be used.

[0127] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises less than 5.0% by weight of additional water-soluble film-forming polymer(s), more preferably less than 2.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. II / Non-ionic surfactants

[0128] According to a particular mode, the composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one non-ionic surfactant.

[0129] For the purposes of the present invention, "surfactant" means an amphiphilic surfactant compound, that is, one having two parts of different polarities. Generally, one part is lipophilic (soluble or dispersible in an oil phase), and the other is hydrophilic (soluble or dispersible in water). Surfactants are characterized by their HLB (Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance), the HLB being the ratio between the hydrophilic and lipophilic parts in the molecule. The term HLB is well known to those skilled in the art and is described, for example, in "The HLB System: A Time-Saving Guide to Emulsifier Selection" (published by ICI Americas Inc., 1984). The HLB of the surfactant(s) used according to the invention can be determined by the Griffin method or the Da Vies method.

[0130] For the purposes of the present invention, "non-ionic surfactant" means any surfactant that does not have an ionic charge (anionic or cationic) in its structure.

[0131] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises less than 5.0% by weight of non-ionic surfactant(s), more preferably less than 2.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0132] According to a particularly preferred form, the non-ionic surfactant(s) are selected from polyoxyethylenated alcohols, which may have from 2 to 200 oxyethylene motifs, preferably from 2 to 30 oxyethylene motifs, in particular polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols, especially in C8-C24, and preferably in Ci2-Ci8, such as Steareth-2 as the product SP BRU S2 MBAL-SO-(AP)® marketed by CRODA, Steareth-20 as the product SP BRU S20 SEG-PA-(RB)® marketed by CRODA, Ceteareth-30 as the product EUMULGIN B 3® sold by BASF.

[0133] In particular, a mixture of Steareth-2 and Steareth-20 will be used. III / Pasty fats

[0134] According to a particular mode, the composition according to the invention may in addition include at least one pasty fat body.

[0135] For the purposes of this invention, "pasty fat" means a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid / liquid change of state and comprising, at a temperature of 23 °C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

[0136] In other words, the initial melting temperature of the paste-like compound can be below 23°C. The liquid fraction of the paste-like compound measured at 23°C can represent 9% to 97% by weight of the compound. This liquid fraction at 23°C preferably represents between 15% and 85%, and more preferably between 40% and 85% by weight.

[0137] Preferably, the pasty fat(s) has(s) a final melting temperature of less than 60°C.

[0138] Preferably, the pasty fat(s) has a hardness of less than or equal to 6 MPa.

[0139] Preferably, the pasty fat(s) exhibit(s) in the solid state a crystalline organization, visible by characterizations in X-ray diffraction.

[0140] For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of a paste or wax 15 can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "DSC Q2000" by TA Instruments.

[0141] Regarding the measurement of the melting temperature and the determination of the final melting temperature, the protocols for sample preparation and measurement are as follows.

[0142] A 5 mg sample of pasty fat, previously heated to 80°C and taken under magnetic stirring with a heated spatula, is placed in a hermetically sealed aluminum container, or crucible. Two tests are carried out to ensure the reproducibility of the results.

[0143] The measurements are performed on the aforementioned calorimeter. The furnace is subjected to nitrogen purging. Cooling is provided by the RCS 90 heat exchanger. The sample is then subjected to the following protocol: first, it is heated to 20°C, then subjected to a first heating from 20°C to 80°C at a rate of 5°C / minute, then cooled from 80°C to -80°C at a rate of 5°C / minute, and finally subjected to a second heating from -80°C to 80°C at a rate of 5°C / minute. During the second heating, the variation in the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the paste or wax sample is measured as a function of temperature.The melting point of the compound is the temperature value corresponding to the peak of the curve representing the variation of the difference in absorbed power as a function of temperature.

[0144] The final melting temperature corresponds to the temperature at which 95% of the sample has melted.

[0145] The liquid fraction by weight of the pasty compound at 23°C is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23°C to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound.

[0146] The enthalpy of fusion of the paste-like compound is the enthalpy consumed by the compound to change from the solid state to the liquid state. The paste-like compound is said to be in the solid state when all of its mass is in crystalline solid form. The paste-like compound is said to be in the liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form.

[0147] The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is equal to the integral of the entire melting curve obtained using the aforementioned calorimeter, with a temperature rise The temperature is raised by 5°C or 10°C per minute, according to ISO 11357-3:1999. The enthalpy of fusion of the paste-like compound is the amount of energy required to change the compound from a solid to a liquid state. It is expressed in J / g.

[0148] The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23°C is the amount of energy absorbed by the sample to pass from the solid state to the state it presents at 23°C consisting of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

[0149] The liquid fraction of the paste compound measured at 32°C preferably represents 30 to 100% by weight of the compound, preferably 50 to 100%, and preferably 60 to 100% by weight of the compound. When the liquid fraction of the paste compound measured at 32°C is equal to 100%, the temperature at the end of the melting range of the paste compound is less than or equal to 32°C.

[0150] The liquid fraction of the paste-like compound measured at 32°C is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32°C to the enthalpy of fusion of the paste-like compound. The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32°C is calculated in the same way as the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23°C.

[0151] Regarding hardness measurement, the sample preparation and measurement protocols are as follows:

[0152] The pasty fat is placed in a 75 mm diameter mold which is filled to approximately 75% of its height. In order to eliminate the thermal precipitate and control crystallization, the mold is placed in the Vôtsch 35 VC0018 programmable oven where it is first heated to 80°C for 60 minutes, then cooled from 80°C to 0°C at a cooling rate of 5°C / minute, then left at the stabilized temperature of 0°C for 60 minutes, then subjected to a temperature increase from 0°C to 20°C at a heating rate of 5°C / minute, then left at the stabilized temperature of 20°C for 180 minutes.

[0153] The compression force measurement is carried out with the Swantech TA / TX2i texture analyzer.

[0154] The mobile used is chosen according to the texture: - cylindrical steel mobile 2mm in diameter for very rigid raw materials; - 12mm diameter cylindrical steel mobile for low-rigidity raw materials.

[0155] The measurement comprises 3 steps: a first step after automatic detection of the sample surface where the stylus moves at a measurement speed of 0.1 mm / s and penetrates the pasty fat to a penetration depth of 0.3 mm, the software records the value of the maximum force reached; a second step, called the relaxation step, where the stylus remains in this position for one second and where the force is recorded after 1 second of relaxation; finally, a third step, called the withdrawal step, where the stylus returns to its initial position at a speed of 1 mm / s and we note the energy of retraction of the probe (negative force).

[0156] The hardness value measured in the first step corresponds to the maximum compressive force measured in Newtons divided by the surface area of ​​the texturometer cylinder expressed in mm² 20 in contact with the pasty fat. The hardness value obtained is expressed in megapascals or MPa. (Poly)ester of fatty acid and polyol

[0157] According to a particular form, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one pasty fat body (Cl) selected from fatty acid and polyol (poly)esters.

[0158] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one (poly)ester of at least one fatty acid comprising from 20 to 100 carbon atoms and at least one polyol.

[0159] According to the invention, the fatty acid and polyol (poly)ester may be a mono-, di-, or tri-ester, or even a mixture thereof. Preferably, the fatty acid is selected from fatty acids whose linear or branched carbon chain comprises 20 to 50, preferably 20 to 30, and preferably 20 to 25, carbon atoms. In an advantageous embodiment, the fatty acid according to the invention is selected from C22 fatty acids, and is preferably behenic acid.

[0160] According to the invention, the polyol can be selected from among the diols. The diol can be selected from aliphatic, alicyclic, or aromatic diols. Preferably, a diol selected from the following is used: ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, cyclohexane dimethanol, 4-butanediol. Other polyols that can be used include glycerol, pentaerythritol, sorbitol, and trimethylol propane.

[0161] According to an advantageous embodiment, the polyol according to the invention is glycerol.

[0162] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least a pasty fat (Cl) chosen from the (poly)esters of behenic acid and glycerol.

[0163] Thus, the compound (Cl) can, for example, be selected from mixtures of mono-, di-, and / or tri-esters of C22 carboxylic acid(s) and glycerol. The compound (Cl), or ester of behenic acid and glycerol, is in particular selected from the group consisting of glyceryl monobehenate, glyceryl dibehenate, glyceryl tribehenate, and mixtures thereof. The carboxylic acid and glycerol ester can, in particular, be a mixture of glyceryl monobehenate, glyceryl dibehenate, and glyceryl tribehenate.

[0164] Such a mixture is notably available, for example, under the INCI name "GLYCERYL DIBEHENATE & TRIBEHENIN & GLYCERYL BEHENATE," and notably marketed under the reference COMPRITOL 888® by the company GATTEFOSSE. It is also present in a mixture in the raw material bearing the INCI name “TRIBEHENIN PEG-20 ESTER” marketed under the reference EMULIUMO 22® by the company GATTEFOSSE.

[0165] Preferably, the content of pasty fats (Cl) in a composition according to the invention is greater than or equal to 0.1%, preferably from 0.5% to 30%, and preferably from 1% to 3%, by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. additional pasty fat (C2)

[0166] The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one additional pasty fat (C2) namely different from (Cl).

[0167] Examples of additional paste-like fats include synthetic compounds and compounds of vegetable origin. Such a paste-like fat can be obtained synthetically from starting materials of vegetable origin.

[0168] This / These pasty fat(s) (C2) is / are advantageously chosen from: - lanolin and its derivatives; - Vaseline, in particular that whose INCI name is PETROLATUM and marketed under the name ULTIMA WHITE PET USP® by the company Perenco; - polyol ethers selected from pentaerythritol and polyalkylene glycol ethers, fatty alcohol and sugar ethers and mixtures thereof, pentaerythritol and polyethylene glycol ether containing 5 oxyethylenated units (5 EOs) (CTFA name: PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether), pentaerythritol and polypropylene glycol ether containing 5 oxypropylenated units (5 OPs) (CTFA name: PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether), and mixtures thereof, and more specifically the mixture of PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether and soybean oil, marketed under the name "Lanolide" by the Vevy company, a mixture in which the constituents are in a weight ratio of 46 / 46 / 8: 46% PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, 46% PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether and 8% soybean oil; - hydrogenated oils, in particular hydrogenated palm oil and hydrogenated jojoba oil; - silicone compounds, polymeric or not; - fluorinated compounds, polymeric or not; - vinyl polymers, in particular: olefin homopolymers and copolymers, homopolymers and copolymers of hydrogenated dienes, linear or branched oligomers, homo or copolymers of alkyl (meth)acrylates preferably having an alkyl group at C8-C30, homo- and copolymer oligomers of vinyl esters having alkyl groups at C8-C30, homo- and copolymer oligomers of vinyl ethers having alkyl groups in c8-c 30 , - liposoluble polyethers resulting from polyetherification between one or more C2-C100 diols, preferably C2-C50, - esters other than the aforementioned Cl compounds, - and / or mixtures thereof.

[0169] The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more additional pasty fats (C2) with a total content greater than or equal to 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.1% and 5% by weight, even better from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0170] According to one embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one additional pasty fat (C2) selected from hydrogenated oils, in particular hydrogenated palm oil and hydrogenated jojoba oil, esters of an oligomeric glycerol, and mixture(s) thereof.

[0171] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one additional pasty fat (C2) selected from the esters of an oligomeric glycerol, in particular in a content greater than or equal to 0.1%, preferably between 0.5% and 5%, and preferably between 1% and 3%, by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0172] The esters of an oligomeric glycerol are in particular selected from among the esters of di-glycerol, in particular the condensates of adipic acid and glycerol, for which a part of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid and isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid such as that with INCI name BIS-DIGLYCERYL POLY-ACYLADIPATE-2, for example marketed under the brand Softisan 25 649® by the company Sasol.

[0173] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises a mixture comprising a) at least one pasty fat (Cl) which is a mixture of glyceryl monobehenate, glyceryl dibehenate and glyceryl tribehenate; and b) at least one pasty fat (C2) which is a mixture of hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated palm oil and oligomeric diglycerol ester with INCI name .BIS-DIGLYCERYL POLYACYLADIPATE-2. Additives

[0174] In addition to the aforementioned compounds, a composition according to the invention may of course include one or more commonly used cosmetic additives, in particular selected from among preservatives, bactericidal agents, antioxidants, perfumes, lipophilic actives, hydrophilic actives, fat-soluble colorants, moisturizing agents, emollients, sunscreens, and mixtures thereof.

[0175] Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional additives and / or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the envisaged addition. Physical characteristics a) Dry extract

[0176] The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises a dry extract content of at least 42.0% by weight, and preferably of at least 44.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, or even of 45.0% to 60.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0177] For the purposes of the present invention, “dry extract content” means the non-volatile matter content.

[0178] The quantity of dry extract (abbreviated DA) of a composition according to the invention is measured using a commercial halogen moisture analyzer, the "HALOGEN MOISTURE ANALYZER HR 73®", from Mettler TOLEDO. The measurement is based on the weight loss of a sample dried by halogen heating and therefore represents the percentage of residual material once the water and volatile matter have evaporated.

[0179] This technique is fully described in the device documentation supplied by Mettler TOLEDO®.

[0180] The measurement protocol is as follows:

[0181] Approximately 2 g of the composition, hereinafter referred to as the sample, is spread onto a metal dish which is then placed in the halogen dryer mentioned above. The sample is then subjected to a temperature of 105 °C until a constant weight is obtained. The wet mass of the sample, corresponding to its initial mass, and the dry mass of the sample, corresponding to its mass after halogen heating, are measured using a precision balance.

[0182] The experimental error related to the measurement is on the order of plus or minus 2%.

[0183] The dry extract content is calculated as follows: [Math 1] Dry Mass Dry Extract Content (expressed as a percentage by weight) = 100 X-----------— Wet Mass

[0184] The composition can be manufactured by known processes, generally used in the cosmetic field.

[0185] The composition used according to the invention may be a makeup composition, a makeup base, in particular keratin fibers, or base-coat, a com position to be applied over makeup, also called top-coat, or even a composition for treating keratin fibers.

[0186] More specifically, the composition according to the invention is a mascara.

[0187] Such compositions are notably prepared according to the general knowledge of the person skilled in the art.

[0188] Packaging and application assembly or kit

[0189] The present invention also relates to an assembly, or kit, for the packaging and application of a cosmetic composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising: - a packaging device comprising the cosmetic composition as previously described, - an applicator of said composition.

[0190] Said applicator may be integral with a gripping member forming a cover for said conditioning device. In other words, said applicator may be mounted in a removable position on said device between a closed position and a position clear of a dispensing opening of the conditioning device for said composition

[0191] A keratin material coating assembly adapted to the invention may include an applicator configured to apply said cosmetic keratin fiber coating composition, and where appropriate a conditioning device adapted to receive said composition. Applicator

[0192] The applicator may include means for smoothing and / or separating keratin fibers, such as eyelashes or eyebrows, including in the form of teeth, hairs, spikes or other reliefs.

[0193] The applicator is designed to apply the composition to the eyelashes or eyebrows, and may include, for example, a brush or a comb.

[0194] The applicator can still be used for finishing makeup, on an area of ​​the eyelashes or eyebrows that is made up or loaded with the composition.

[0195] The brush may have a twisted core and bristles caught between the coils of the core, or be made otherwise.

[0196] The comb is for example made in one piece by molding plastic material.

[0197] In some embodiments, the application element is mounted at the end of a rod, which may be flexible, which may help to improve application comfort. Conditioning device

[0198] The packaging device includes a container for holding the skincare and / or makeup composition of keratinous materials. This composition can then be dispensed from the container by immersing the applicator in it.

[0199] This applicator can be attached to a closure element of the container. This closure element can form a gripping member for the applicator. This gripping member can form a cover that can be removably mounted on the container by any suitable means such as screwing, snapping, fitting, or otherwise. Such a container can therefore reversibly house the applicator.

[0200] This container may optionally be equipped with a wringer suitable for removing excess product taken up by the applicator.

[0201] A method for applying the composition according to the invention to the eyelashes or eyebrows may also include the following steps: - to form a deposit of the cosmetic composition on the eyelashes or eyebrows, - to leave the deposit on the eyelashes or eyebrows, the deposit may dry.

[0202] It should be noted that according to another embodiment the applicator can form a product container. In such a case, a container can, for example, be provided in the gripping member and an internal channel can connect this gripping member internally to the raised application elements.

[0203] Finally, it should be noted that the packaging and application assembly may be in the form of a kit, with the applicator and the packaging device being housed separately under the same packaging item.

[0204] The expressions "between ... and ..." and "ranging from ... to ..." should be understood inclusive of bounds, unless otherwise specified.

[0205] In the description and examples, unless otherwise stated, percentages are weight percentages. Percentages are therefore expressed as weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The ingredients are mixed in the order and under the conditions readily determined by those skilled in the art.

[0206] The invention will now be described by means of examples which are present for illustrative purposes only and should not be interpreted as limiting examples of the invention. Examples 1a, 1b: mascaras

[0207] a. The following compositions were prepared. b. [Table 1] [Tables 1] Phases Ingrédients 1 (invention ) la (hors invention ) 1b (hors invention) Al WHITE BEESWAX / CERA ALBA (CERABEIL LOR® -BAERLOCHER) 2,2 2,2 2,2 SYNTHETIC BEESWAX (CYCLOCHEM 330® - EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT) 2,2 2,2 2,2 COPERNICIA CERIFERA (CARNAUBA) WAX / COPERNICIA CERIFERA CERA (CERAUBA Tl®- BAERLOCHER) 3,5 3,5 3,5 PARAFFIN (SASOLWAX 5603® - SASOL) 8,1 8,1 8,1 STEARETH-2 (SP BRU S2 MBAL-SO-(AP) ® -CRODA) 1,0 1,0 1,0 STEARETH-20 (SP BRU S20 SEG-PA-(RB)® -CRODA) 1,1 1,1 1,1 CETYL ALCOHOL (LANETTE 16® - BASF) 2,0 2,0 - HYDROGENATED JOJOBA OIL (JOJOBA WAX FLAKES® -DESERT WHALE) 0,25 0,25 0,25 HYDROGENATED PALM OIL (GV 60 / SG® -SIO) 0,25 0,25 0,25 A2 GLYCERYL DIBEHENATE (and) TRIBEHENIN (and) GLYCERYL BEHENATE (COMPRITOL 888® -GATTEFOSSE) 2,0 2,0 2,0 A3 POLYBUTENE (INDOPOL H 1500® - Ineos) 2.0 2.0 2.0 A4 BIS-DIGLYCERYL POLYACY-LADIPATE-2 (SOFTISAN 649® - CREMER OLEO) 2.0 2.0 2.0 B1 WATER / AQUA qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 B2 CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.3 0.3 0.3 SODIUM DEHYDROACETATE 0.3 0.3 0.3 PHENOXYETHANOL 0.8 0.8 0.8 B3 PULLULAN (PULLULAN COSMETIC GRADE® - HAYASHIBARA) 3.0 - 3.0 ACACIA SENEGAL GUM 0.63 0.63 0.63 HYDROXYETHYLCELLULOSE (CELLOSIZE HEC QP-4400H EUROPE PCG® - AMERCHOL) 0.75 0.75 0.75 B4 IRON OXIDES (CI 77499) (SUNPURO C33-7001® from SUN) 7.0 B5 POTASSIUM CETYL PHOSPHATE (AMPHISOL K® - DSM NU-TRITIONAL PRODUCTS) 7.0 C Aqueous dispersion at 45% by weight of film-forming polymer ACRYLATES COPOLYMER (EPITEX 66 POLYMER® - DOW CHEMICAL) 7.0 (3.15% as active ingredient) Protocol for preparing examples 1 to 3 Preparation of the oil phase

[0208] All raw materials used were carefully weighed using a balance (accuracy 0.01g).

[0209] In a 500mL double-jacketed pan with hot oil circulation to control the temperature, the various waxes and waxy surfactants (steareth 2, steareth-20 and cetyl alcohol) were melted. They were heated to approximately 96-98°C.

[0210] Once the waxes were melted, they were homogenized by stirring with a Moritz, which is a rotor-stator type stirring: it consists of a fixed part in which a second moving part rotates at variable speed, this device is used to make emulsions because it allows very high shear.

[0211] Once the waxes and surfactants had been melted and homogenized, the black pigments were added and the mixture was homogenized again under Moritz. The temperature was then checked (using a probe) and adjusted to 95-96°C if necessary. Preparation of the aqueous phase

[0212] A tall 600 mL beaker, previously weighed empty, was used to adjust the mass of water before emulsification. The required quantity of water, previously heated in an electric kettle, was slowly stirred into this beaker using a Rayneri mixer.

[0213] The Rayneri is a laboratory stirrer equipped with a blade or turbine allowing for variable speed stirring while incorporating constituents.

[0214] Still under slow stirring, the following were successively introduced: latex and then potassium cetyl phosphate (surfactant). Between each introduction, care had to be taken to ensure proper solubilization of the compound and homogenization of the medium.

[0215] When all the compounds were solubilized, it was necessary to adjust the mass of water to compensate for the evaporation that had occurred. The antifoam agent SODIUM DEHYDROACETATE and caprylyl glycol were then added.

[0216] The aqueous phase was then placed in a water bath (setpoint 90-92°C) until it reached a temperature of 88-90°C. Emulsification

[0217] Once both phases had reached the desired temperature, the aqueous phase was very slowly added to the oily phase while gradually increasing the stirring speed. The phase inversion was then visible as a change in viscosity. The stirring speed was set to maximum for 10 minutes (approximately 3500 rpm) to prevent overflow if the stirring is too vigorous. Temperature drop

[0218] After emulsification, the pan was placed in the Rayneri, which was fitted with a butterfly whisk. This whisk facilitated mixing and homogenization during the low-shear cooling process. The stirring speed was kept low to avoid incorporating air bubbles.

[0219] Thanks to the oil bath, the temperature was lowered gradually: in 10°C increments, ensuring thorough homogenization at each increment, especially around 70°C.

[0220] The mascara thus obtained was transferred to a sealed jar to prevent it from drying out. after contact with air, it was necessary to wait 24 hours to check the homogeneity of the formula and the good dispersion of the pigments. Measuring the intensity of black

[0221] Colorimetric measurements L* were performed on each composition example by spreading the compositions on respective FAP H247G® glass dishes covered with a microscope slide and evaluating the color obtained with said compositions using a Konica Minolta spectrocolorimeter coupled with Spec-traMagic® software measuring the SCI and SCE values. Three triangular measurements were performed for each example 1, 1a and 1b.

[0222] In an L* a* b* system, the lower the value of L*, the more intense and in particular darker the color.

[0223] The measurement of L* was carried out in mass.

[0224] The DL* is then calculated, corresponding to the difference between the L* value of composition 1 according to the invention and the L* value of the comparative composition la or 1b. When DL* is greater than 1, the difference between the L* value of composition 1 according to the invention and the L* value of composition la or 1b is considered significant. Colorimetric results:

[0225] [Tables 1] Mass L* DL* Example 1 according to invention 14.61 + / -0.0829 / Comparative example 1a 16.038 + / -0.0891 1.428 Example 1b comparative 15.77 + / -0.072 1.160 The results obtained showed that example 1 according to the invention produced the most intense coloration compared to examples 1a and 1b outside the invention.

Claims

Demands

1. A skincare and / or makeup composition of keratinous materials, such as skin, in particular the eye contour, eyelash contour, eyebrow contour; keratinous fibers such as eyelashes and eyebrows, in the form of an emulsion, in particular wax-in-water, comprising, preferably in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) an aqueous phase, and b) at least one oily phase dispersed in the aqueous phase comprising i) at least one wax; and ii) at least one non-polar hydrocarbon non-volatile oil; and iii) at least one fatty alcohol; and c) at least one mono-alkyl phosphate in Ci2-C2O, partially or totally neutralized by a base; and d) at least one pullulan; and e) film-forming polymer particles suspended in the aqueous phase; and f) at least one pigment.

2. Composition according to claim 1, comprising at least 30.0% by weight, preferably at least 40.0% by weight, or even a content of 50 to 60% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the wax(s) are different from fatty alcohols iii) of C40-C48 monoesters of saturated linear fatty acids

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the wax is selected from - white beeswax of INCI name: WHITE BEEWAX or CERA ALBA; - a synthetic beeswax of INCI name: SYNTHETIC BEEWAX; - mixtures of paraffin waxes and hydrocarbon waxes of INCI name PARAFFIN; and mixtures thereof.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the wax(s) is / are present at a content greater than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably 7% by weight, or even 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, where the wax(s) is / are present at a content ranging from 12 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, better from 14 to 35% and even better from 16 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oil is selected from linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, in particular selected from - paraffin oils and their derivatives; - petrolatum; - polydecenes, polybutenes; hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as Parleam; - squalane, - mixtures thereof.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oil is a polybutene.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the content of non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oil(s) n varies from 0.1 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1 to 5% by weight, and better from 1.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the fatty alcohol is selected from linear or branched fatty alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, in C14-C30, preferably in C14-C24, and even better in C14-C20; more particularly is selected from cetyl alcohol (in C16), stearic alcohol (in C18) and mixtures thereof.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the fatty alcohol is present in amounts from 1.0 to 20.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 2.0 to 15.0% by weight, and even more particularly from 3.0 to 10.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the mono-alkyl phosphate in Ci2-C20, partially or totally neutralized by a base, is the potassium salt of mono-cetyl phosphate, INCI name POTASSIUM CETYL PHOSPHATE.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the content of Ci2-C20 monoalkyl phosphate(s) varies from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein pullulan is present in the composition in a content ranging from 1 to 7% by weight, preferably from 1 to 6% by weight, or even preferably from 2 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the film-forming polymer suspended in the aqueous phase is present in a dry matter content of 1 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, and more particularly from 2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the film-forming polymer suspended in the aqueous phase is an aqueous dispersion of acrylic polymer, in particular selected from those of INCI name ACRYLATES COPOLYMER, : ACRYLATES / ETHYLHEXYL ACRYLATE,COPOLYMER, STYRENE / ACRYLATES / AMMONIUM METHACRYLATE COPOLYMER, and mixtures thereof.

17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the pigment is selected from metal oxides, in particular titanium dioxides, iron oxides and mixtures thereof; and more particularly black iron oxides (CI 77499).

18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the pigment(s) is / are present in the composition in a content of 2.0 to 25.0% by weight, preferably 3.0% to 20.0% by weight, more particularly 4.0 to 15.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

19. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further containing at least one additional water-soluble film-forming polymer, preferably selected from cellulose polymers, gum arabic and mixtures thereof; more particularly is a mixture of hydroxyethylcellulose and gum arabic.

20. , Composition according to claim 19, comprising less than 5.0% by weight of additional water-soluble film-forming polymer(s), more preferably less than 2.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

21. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one nonionic surfactant, preferably selected from polyoxyethylenated alcohols, which may comprise from 2 to 200 oxyethylene motifs, more preferably chosen from Steareth-2, Steareth-20, and mixtures thereof; and more particularly is a mixture of Steareth-2 and Steareth-20.

22. Composition according to claim 21, comprising less than 5.0% by weight of non-ionic surfactant(s), more preferably less than 2.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition,

23. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one pasty fat, in particular a pasty fat (Cl) selected from (poly)esters of behenic acid and glycerol, in particular a mixture of glyceryl monobehenate, glyceryl dibehenate and glyceryl tribehenate

24. Composition according to claim 23, comprising said pasty fat (Cl) at a total content greater than or equal to 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.1% and 5% by weight, even better from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

25. Composition according to claim 23 or 24, further comprising at least one additional pasty fat (C2), preferably selected from hydrogenated oils, in particular hydrogenated palm oil and hydrogenated jojoba oil, esters of an oligomeric glycerol, and mixture(s) thereof.

26. Composition according to claim 25, comprising one or more additional pasty fats (C2) with a total content greater than or equal to 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.1% and 5% by weight, even better from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

27. ​​Composition according to claim 25 or 26, comprising a mixture comprising a) at least one paste-like fat (Cl) which is a mixture of glyceryl monobehenate, glyceryl dibehenate and glyceryl tribehenate; and b) at least one paste-like fat (C2) which is a mixture of hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated palm oil and diglyceryl ester of INCI name BIS-DIGLYCERYL POLYACYLADIPATE-2.

28. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in the form of a mascara.

29. Assembly, or kit, for conditioning and applying a com- cosmetic position for coating keratinous materials comprising: - a conditioning device comprising the composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims; - an applicator of said composition.

30. A method for coating keratinous materials, in particular skin, especially around the eyes, eyelashes or eyebrows, with keratinous fibers such as eyelashes and / or eyebrows, comprising a step of applying to said keratinous materials at least one composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 28.