COMPOSITION SUITABLE FOR THE TREATMENT OF THE SCALP / HAIR
A stable composition with polyols, fatty amines, and controlled water content addresses the instability of fatty acid and ester mixtures, ensuring effective treatment of the scalp and hair by maintaining stability and providing hydration and antibacterial benefits.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2023001978
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2023-03-03
- Publication Date
- 2026-02-06
- Estimated Expiration
- 2043-03-03
AI Technical Summary
Existing compositions comprising fatty acids and esters with a large amount of water are unstable, leading to phase separation due to low compatibility, which affects their efficacy in treating keratinous substances like the scalp and hair.
A composition comprising polyols, fatty amines or their salts, a mixture of fatty acids and esters, and limited water content (10% or less) to ensure stability, using specific ratios and ingredients like propylene glycol, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, and activated virgin coconut oil to maintain stability under various conditions.
The composition remains stable under high temperatures and UV radiation, preventing phase separation and solidification, allowing uniform application and providing hydration, antibacterial properties, and reducing itching sensations on the scalp and hair.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: COMPOSITION SUITABLE FOR THE TREATMENT OF THE SCALP / HAIR Technical field
[0001] The present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, suitable for the treatment of the scalp and hair. STATE OF THE ART
[0002] Keratinous substances are widely present on the surface of the human body, such as skin and hair.
[0003] Recently, many people have become interested in preventing hair loss (AHL: Anti-Hair Loss), which is one of the concerns in scalp care. As a result, remarkable progress has been made in recent years in the development and marketing of scalp care products.
[0004] For example, WO 2021 / 134463 discloses a composition comprising a mixture of fatty acids and esters such as activated virgin coconut oil, and a large amount of water. The composition disclosed in WO 2021 / 134463 is useful for scalp care. DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION
[0005] However, it has been discovered that a composition comprising a mixture of fatty acids and esters and a large amount of water tends to be unstable to the point of causing phase separation over time, because the mixture of fatty acids and esters can easily separate from the water due to its low compatibility with water. Thus, there is a possibility of improving the stability of the composition disclosed in WO 2021 / 134463.
[0006] An objective of the present invention is to provide a stable composition that is useful for treating a keratinous substance, preferably the scalp and hair.
[0007] The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a composition, including:
[0008] (a) at least one polyol;
[0009] (b) at least one fatty amine or a salt thereof;
[0010] (c) a mixture of fatty acid and ester; and
[0011] (d) water
[0012] in which
[0013] the quantity of (d) water in the composition is 10% by weight or less, preferably 8% by weight or less, and more preferably 6% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0014] The (a) polyol can be selected from glycols, preferably selected from the group consisting of caprylyl glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably can be propylene glycol.
[0015] The quantity of the (a) polyol(s) in the composition according to the present invention can range from 10% to 90% by weight, preferably from 20% to 85% by weight, and more preferably from 30% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0016] The (b) fatty amine can be chosen from among the alkylamidoamines, preferably the C6 22 alkylamido C, 6 dialkylamines, and more preferably can be stearamidopropyldimethylamine.
[0017] The quantity of the (b) fatty amine(s) in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 4% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0018] The (c) fatty acid and ester mixture may comprise:
[0019] (cl) a fatty acid component comprising a plurality, for example, at least 3, 4 or 5, of medium-chain fatty acids; and
[0020] (c2) a monoester component comprising a plurality, for example, at least 3, 4 or 5, of medium-chain fatty acid monoesters,
[0021] in which
[0022] medium chain fatty acid refers to a monocarboxylic acid having 6 to 20 carbon atoms.
[0023] The (cl) fatty acid component may comprise at least 3 fatty acids selected from the group consisting of caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid and arachidic acid, and the corresponding glycerides of each fatty acid in the (cl) fatty acid component may be used as (c2) monoester component,
[0024] Preferably, the (c1) fatty acid component may comprise caprylic acid, capric acid and lauric acid, while the (c2) ester component may comprise monocaprylin, monocaprine and monolaurin,
[0025] in which
[0026] The weight ratio between the total amount of fatty acids in the (cl) fatty acid component and the total amount of monoesters in the (c2) monoester component can range from 4:1 to 1:1, preferably from 3:1 to 1:1, and more preferably from 2.5:1 to 1.5:1.
[0027] The (c) fatty acid and ester mixture may be activated virgin coconut oil comprising
[0028] (cl) a fatty acid component comprising:
[0029] of caprylic acid in an amount of 5 to 20% by weight, preferably 7 to 15% by weight, and more preferably 8 to 10% by weight;
[0030] of capric acid in an amount of 1 to 10% by weight, preferably 2 to 8% by weight, and more preferably 4 to 7% by weight; and
[0031] of lauric acid in an amount of 20 to 70% by weight, preferably 30 to 60% by weight, and more preferably 40 to 55% by weight,
[0032] and
[0033] (c2) a monoester component comprising:
[0034] of monocaprylin in an amount of 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferably 1 to 10% by weight, and more preferably 4 to 7% by weight;
[0035] of monocaprine in an amount of 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably 1 to 8% by weight, and more preferably 3 to 5% by weight; and
[0036] of monolaurin in an amount of 10 to 40% by weight, preferably 15 to 35% by weight, and more preferably 20 to 30% by weight,
[0037] each with respect to the total amount of the (cl) fatty acid component and the (c2) monoester component.
[0038] The (c) fatty acid and ester mixture may be activated virgin coconut oil comprising:
[0039] (cl) a fatty acid component comprising caprylic acid, capric acid and lauric acid, in an amount of 5 to 40% by weight, preferably 10 to 30% by weight, and more preferably 20 to 25% by weight;
[0040] (c2) a monoester component comprising monocapryline, monocaprine and of monolaurin, in an amount of 1 to 30% by weight, preferably 5 to 20% by weight, and more preferably 10 to 15% by weight;
[0041] (c3) a diester component comprising caprylic acid diglycerides, of capric and lauric acid, in an amount of 10 to 50% by weight, preferably 20 to 45% by weight, and more preferably 30 to 40% by weight; and
[0042] (c4) a triester component comprising caprylic acid triglycerides, of capric and lauric acid, in an amount of 10 to 70% by weight, preferably 15 to 50% by weight, and more preferably 20-30% by weight,
[0043] each in relation to the total amount of activated virgin coconut oil.
[0044] The amount of (c) fatty acid and ester mixture in the composition according to the The present invention can range from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 15% by weight and more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0045] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (e) at least one monovalent C2 4 alcohol.
[0046] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (f) at least one fatty alcohol.
[0047] The composition according to the present invention can be in the form of a liquid at a temperature of 25 °C under atmospheric pressure.
[0048] The composition according to the present invention may be a cosmetic composition, preferably a cosmetic composition for a keratinous substance and more preferably a cosmetic composition for the scalp and / or hair.
[0049] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating a keratinous substance, such as the scalp or hair, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratinous substance. Best embodiment of the invention
[0050] After careful research, the inventors discovered that it is possible to propose a stable composition which is useful for treating a keratinous substance, preferentially the scalp and hair.
[0051] Thus, one aspect of the present invention is a composition, comprising:
[0052] (a) at least one polyol;
[0053] (b) at least one fatty amine or a salt thereof;
[0054] (c) a mixture of fatty acid and ester; and
[0055] (d) water
[0056] in which
[0057] the amount of (d) water in the composition is 10% by weight or less, preferably 8% by weight or less, and more preferably 6% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0058] The composition according to the present invention is stable, even at high temperatures or under UV (ultraviolet) radiation, so that no phase separation or solidification is observed. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention can be stored even under hot conditions or under sunlight, including UV light.
[0059] Since the composition according to the present invention does not cause phase separation or solidification, it can be spread uniformly on a keratinous substance such as the scalp and hair. Thus, the composition according to the present invention is useful for treating a keratinous substance, preferably the scalp and hair.
[0060] Consequently, the composition according to the present invention is stable and useful for treating a keratinous substance, preferably the scalp and hair.
[0061] In addition, the composition according to the present invention can confer cosmetic effects, such as hydration, derived from (c) the mixture of fatty acid and ester, which is preferably coconut oil, and more preferably activated virgin coconut oil, which comprises medium-chain fatty acids.
[0062] Furthermore, (c) the fatty acid and ester mixture may have antibacterial properties. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention may also have antibacterial effects.
[0063] Furthermore, (c) the fatty acid and ester mixture can regulate the sensation of itching occurring on a keratinous substance, particularly on the scalp. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention can be used preferentially to treat the scalp without uncomfortable sensations such as itching.
[0064] The composition according to the present invention will be explained in more detail below.
[0065] [Polyol]
[0066] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one polyol. Two or more different types of (a) polyols may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of (a) polyol or a combination of different types of (a) polyols may be used.
[0067] The term "polyol" here means an alcohol having two or more hydroxy groups, and does not include a saccharide or a derivative thereof. A saccharide derivative comprises a sugar alcohol obtained by reducing one or more carbonyl groups of a saccharide, as well as a saccharide or a sugar alcohol in which the hydrogen atom(s) in one or more hydroxy groups thereof has been replaced by at least one substituent such as an alkyl group, a hydroxyalkyl group, an alkoxy group, an acyl group, or a carbonyl group.
[0068] The polyol can be a C2-Ci2 polyol, preferably a C2-C9 polyol, comprising at least 2 hydroxy groups, and preferably 2 to 5 hydroxy groups.
[0069] The polyol can be natural or synthetic. The polyol can have a linear, branched, or cyclic molecular structure.
[0070] The polyol can be selected from glycerins and their derivatives, as well as glycols and their derivatives. The polyol can be selected from the group consisting of glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, polyethylene glycol (5 to 50 ethylene oxide groups) and caprylyl glycol.
[0071] The (a) polyol can be selected from glycols, preferably selected from the group consisting of caprylyl glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol and their mixture, and more preferably can be propylene glycol.
[0072] The quantity of the (a) polyol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or more, preferably 20% by weight or more, and more preferably 30% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0073] The quantity of the (a) polyol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 90% by weight or less, preferably 85% by weight or less, and more preferably 80% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0074] The quantity of the (a) polyol(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 10% to 90% by weight, preferably from 20% to 85% by weight, and more preferably from 30% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0075] [Fat amine or salt thereof]
[0076] The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one fatty amine or a salt thereof. Two or more different types of (b) fatty amines or salts thereof may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of (b) fatty amine or a salt thereof, or a combination of different types of (b) fatty amines or salts thereof, may be used.
[0077] The term "bold" here means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms.
[0078] The (b) fatty amine may have a substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbon group such as an alkyl group, which may have from 6 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms. The substituent may be a hydroxyl group or a polyoxyalkylene group.
[0079] The (b) fatty amine can be in the form of a primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine.
[0080] The fatty amine (b) can be selected from among the alkylamidoamines, which can be C6,22-alkylamido C,6-dialkylamines. The alkylamidoamines can be represented by the following formula (I):
[0081] RCONH(CH2)n NR*R2 (I)
[0082] in which
[0083] RCO designates an acyl group, which may have carbon atoms at C6 22, such as stearoyl, behenoyl, palmitoyl and cocoyl,
[0084] R1 and R2 independently denote an alkyl group at C,6 such as a methyl group and an ethyl group, and
[0085] n denotes an integer from 1 to 5, preferably from 1 to 3, and more preferably from 2 or 3.
[0086] The (b) fatty amine may be selected from the group consisting of stearamidopropyldimethylamine, diethylaminoethylstearamide, dimethylstearamine, dimethylsoyamine, soyaamine, tridecylamine, ethylstearylamine, ethoxylated stearylamine, dihydroxyethylstearylamine and arachidylbehenylamine.
[0087] The salt of the fatty amine is not limited. Salts of (b) fatty amines may be selected from halogens, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, citrates, lactates, and alkyl sulfates. For example, salts of (b) fatty amine may be selected from stearylamine hydrochloride, soyamine chloride, stearylamine formate, N-suifpropanediamine dichloride, and stearamidopropyl dimethylamine citrate.
[0088] The (b) fatty amine can be chosen from among the alkylamidoamines, preferably the C6-22 alkylamido Ci 6 dialkylamines, and more preferably can be stearamidopropyldimethylamine.
[0089] The quantity of the (b) fatty amine(s) or of a salt or salts thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0090] The quantity of the (b) fatty amine(s) or of a salt or salts thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be 5% by weight or less, preferably 4% by weight or less, and more preferably 3% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0091] The quantity of the (b) fatty amine(s) or of a salt or salts thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 4% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0092] [Mixture of fatty acid and ester]
[0093] The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) a mixture of fatty acid and ester.
[0094] The expression "mixture of fatty acid and ester" here means a mixture of fatty acid(s) and ester(s).
[0095] The (c) fatty acid and ester mixture may comprise:
[0096] (cl) a fatty acid component comprising a plurality, for example, at least 3, 4 or 5, of medium-chain fatty acids; and
[0097] (c2) a monoester component comprising a plurality, for example, at least 3, 4 or 5, of medium-chain fatty acid monoesters.
[0098] The monoester of the (c2) monoester component may be monoesters of medium-chain fatty acids with a lower polyol such as glycerol.
[0099] The medium-chain fatty acid can be a monocarboxylic acid having 6 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and more preferably 8 to 12 carbon atoms.
[0100] The medium-chain fatty acid can be represented by the following formula (II):
[0101] RC(O)-OH (II)
[0102] in which
[0103] R represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated at C5-C19, preferably at C7-C15, and more preferably at C7-Cn such as an alkyl group; preferably, R is a linear hydrocarbon group; and more preferably, R is a linear alkyl group.
[0104] According to one embodiment of the present invention, R may have an odd number, for example, 5, 7, 9, 11, 13, 15, 17 or 19, of carbon atoms. Preferably, R may have 7, 9, 11, 13 or 15 carbon atoms; and more preferably, R may have 7, 9 or 11 carbon atoms.
[0105] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the medium-chain fatty acid can be used alone or as a combination of two or more fatty acids. Preferably, the medium-chain fatty acid is used as a combination of at least 3, 4, or 5 fatty acids.
[0106] Preferably, the medium-chain fatty acid according to formula (II) may be caprylic acid (C8), also called octoic acid, capric acid (C10), lauric acid (C12), myristic acid (CM), palmitic acid (C16), stearic acid (C[8] or arachidic acid (C20).
[0107] The medium-chain fatty acid can be at least partially esterified with a polyol.
[0108] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the useful monoester as (c2) monoester component can be a monoester represented by the following formula (III):
[0109] RC(O)-OR' (III)
[0110] in which
[0111] R is such as defined in formula (II), and
[0112] R' represents a residue of a polyol.
[0113] The polyol may contain from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms. The polyol The useful ones may be glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol.
[0114] Preferably in formula (III), R and R' are different from each other, where R represents a linear C7-Ci5 alkyl, and R' represents a residue of a linear polyol containing 2 to 6 carbon atoms.
[0115] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the medium-chain fatty acid according to formula (II) is preferably used in combination with the monoester according to formula (III), so as to form the (c) fatty acid and ester mixture.
[0116] Preferably, the medium-chain fatty acid and the monoester for (c) the fatty acid-ester mixture involve the same fatty acid fraction, i.e., the medium-chain fatty acid of formula (II) and the monoester of formula (III) have the corresponding R group. That is, if a medium-chain fatty acid of formula (II) having heptyl as R, i.e., being caprylic acid, is used, then a monoester of formula (III) having heptyl as R, i.e., being a caprylic acid monoester, is used to form (c) the fatty acid-ester mixture. Similarly, if two or more fatty acids are used simultaneously for (c) the fatty acid-ester mixture, then the two or more corresponding monoesters having respectively the same fatty acid fractions are used.In other words, according to one embodiment of the present invention, the (c) fatty acid and ester mixture can be considered as a mixture of two or more fatty acids of formula (II) and partially esterified monoesters of each fatty acid.
[0117] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the (c) fatty acid and ester mixture comprises a plurality, for example, at least 3, 4, or 5, of medium-chain fatty acids of formula (II) and monoesters of formula (III) having the corresponding R groups respectively identical to the medium-chain fatty acids of formula (II). Corresponding to the fractions of medium-chain fatty acids, it is preferable to use the same polyol to form the monoesters. That is, for the two other monoesters of formula (III) for the (c) fatty acid and ester mixture, they have the same R group. Among others, glycerol is particularly used to form glycerides with the aforementioned medium-chain fatty acids, corresponding to various degrees.
[0118] According to one embodiment of the present invention, for example, the (c) fatty acid and ester mixture comprises at least 3 fatty acids selected from the group consisting of caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, and arachidic acid, to be used as (c1) fatty acid component. Meanwhile, the corresponding monoesters of each fatty acid in the (c1) fatty acid component are used as (c2) monoester component. Preferably, the monoesters of the (c2) monoester component are each a glyceride.
[0119] Preferably, according to one embodiment of the present invention, the (c1) fatty acid component comprises caprylic acid, capric acid, and lauric acid. Meanwhile, the corresponding monoester component comprises caprylic glyceride (also called monocaprylin), capric glyceride (also called monocaprine), and lauric glyceride (also called monolaurin).
[0120] According to one embodiment of the present invention, for example, with regard to the (c) fatty acid and ester mixture, the total amount of fatty acids in the (c1) fatty acid component and the total amount of monoesters, for example, of glycerides thereof, in the (c2) monoester component are present in a weight ratio from 4:1 to 1:1, preferably from 3:1 to 1:1, and more preferably from 2.5:1 to 1.5:1.
[0121] According to one embodiment of the present invention, for example, the (c) fatty acid-ester mixture can be obtained by directly partially esterifying the (c1) fatty acid component with a polyol to form monoesters, so as to obtain a fatty acid mixture and the corresponding monoesters as the (c2) monoester component. Since a polyol is used, it is understood that a multiester, for example a diester, a triester, etc., may ultimately be formed. Accordingly, a (c) fatty acid-ester mixture comprising at least 3 fatty acids, monoesters corresponding to at least 3 fatty acids, and multiesters corresponding to at least 3 medium-chain fatty acids, is always useful within the meaning of the present invention.
[0122] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "multiester" is given to mean an ester formed by esterification of a polyol, in which more than one hydroxyl group of a polyol molecule is esterified. Accordingly, "diester" or "triester" according to the present invention means, respectively, an ester in which two or three hydroxyl groups of a polyol molecule are esterified.
[0123] For example, when glycerol is used to esterify the (c1) fatty acid component, the (c) useful fatty acid and ester mixture may comprise at least 3 fatty acids, monoesters, diesters, and triesters corresponding to the at least 3 fatty acids. For example, the (c) useful fatty acid and ester mixture may comprise caprylic acid, capric acid, and lauric acid, as the (c1) fatty acid component; monocaprylin, monocaprine, and monolaurin, as the (c2) monoester component; and a diglyceride and a triglyceride of caprylic acid, capric acid, and lauric acid.
[0124] When the (c) fatty acid-ester mixture also includes a multiester, the content of the multiester is not particularly limited. For example, the multiester may be used in the (c) fatty acid and ester mixture in an amount up to 90% by weight, preferably 80% by weight or less, more preferably 70% by weight or less, and even more preferably 65% by weight or less.
[0125] (AVCO)
[0126] According to one embodiment of the present invention, for example, (c) the fatty acid and ester mixture may be of natural origin. Among other things, it is well known that coconut oil comprises a mixture of various C8-C2o fatty acids, in particular those having an even number of carbon atoms.
[0127] Thus, it is desirable for the present invention to use coconut oil or a coconut oil derivative, for example, an esterified coconut oil product, as (c) a mixture of fatty acid and ester.
[0128] Among others, a useful derivative of coconut oil is that called activated virgin coconut oil (AVCO). Preferably, the coconut oil is esterified with glycerol. A useful AVCO according to the present invention may comprise caprylic acid, capric acid, and lauric acid, as (c1) fatty acid components; and monocaprylin, monocaprine, and monolaurin, as (c2) monoester components.
[0129] According to one embodiment of the present invention, for example, as a useful AVCO, the total amount of fatty acids in the (c1) fatty acid component and the total amount of monoglycerides in the (c2) monoester component are present in a weight ratio of 4:1 to 1:1, preferably 3:1 to 1:1, and more preferably 2.5:1 to 1.5:1.
[0130] More specifically, for example, in the example embodiment 1 for the AVCO, a useful AVCO may comprise: a (c1) fatty acid component comprising: caprylic acid in an amount of 5 to 20% by weight, preferably 7 to 15% by weight, and more preferably 8 to 10% by weight; capric acid in an amount of 1 to 10% by weight, preferably 2 to 8% by weight, and more preferably 4 to 7% by weight; and lauric acid in an amount of 20 to 70% by weight, preferably 30 to 60% by weight, and more preferably 40 to 55% by weight, and a (c2) monoester component comprising: monocaprylin in an amount of 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferably 1 to 10% by weight, and more preferably 4 to 7% by weight; of monocaprine in an amount of 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably 1 to 8% by weight, and more preferably 3 to 5% by weight;and monolaurin in an amount of 10 to 40% by weight, preferably 15 to 35% by weight, and more preferably 20 to 30% by weight; each in relation to the total amount of the (c1) fatty acid component and the (c2) monoester component.
[0131] An AVCO obtained from the esterification of coconut oil may further comprise a diglyceride and a triglyceride in addition to the (c1) fatty acid component and the (c2) monoester component above. According to one embodiment of the present invention, for example, a useful AVCO may comprise caprylic acid, capric acid, and lauric acid, as the (c1) fatty acid component; monocaprylin, monocaprine, and monolaurin, as the (c2) monoester component; and optionally a diglyceride and a triglyceride of caprylic acid, capric acid, and lauric acid.
[0132] When the AVCO also includes a multiester selected from diglycerides and triglycerides, the content of the multiester is not particularly limited, for example, to an amount of up to 90% by weight, preferably 80% by weight or less, more preferably 70% by weight or less, and even more preferably 65% by weight or less.
[0133] According to one embodiment of the present invention, for example, a useful AVCO may comprise: a (c1) fatty acid component comprising caprylic acid, capric acid and lauric acid, in an amount of 5 to 40% by weight, preferably 10 to 30% by weight, and more preferably 20 to 25% by weight; a (c2) monoester component comprising monocaprylin, monocaprine and monolaurin, in an amount of 1 to 30% by weight, preferably 5 to 20% by weight, and more preferably 10 to 15% by weight; a (c3) diester component comprising diglycerides of caprylic acid, capric acid and lauric acid, in an amount of 10 to 50% by weight, preferably 20 to 45% by weight, and more preferably 30 to 40% by weight;and a (c4) triester component comprising caprylic acid, capric acid and lauric acid triglycerides, in an amount of 10 to 70% by weight, preferably 15 to 50% by weight, and more preferably 20 to 30% by weight; each relative to the total amount of the AVCO.
[0134] A useful AVCO may preferably be an AVCO prepared according to the teaching of EP 1973415. Accordingly, an example of an AVCO may include: 24.63 mg / g of caprylic acid (C8), 17.81 mg / g of capric acid (Cio), 133.70 mg / g of lauric acid (Ci2) and 11.82 mg / g of monocaprylin, 8.29 mg / g of monocaprine and 57.16 mg / g of monolaurin; or 23.10 mg / g of caprylic acid (C8), 16.08 mg / g of capric acid (C10), 116.81 mg / g of lauric acid (C12) and 16.04 mg / g of monocaprylin, 10.35 mg / g of monocaprine and 75.54 mg / g of monolaurin; each relative to the total weight of the AVCO; and preferably, the AVCO is derived from the catalysis of coconut oil with 1,3-specific lipase and its submission to glycerolysis.
[0135] A commercial product may be used as an AVCO. An example of a commercially available AVCO is the AVCO (INCI name: Cocos Nucifera Oil (coconut)) marketed by Biotropics.
[0136] The amount of (c) fatty acid and ester mixture in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.01% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0137] The amount of (c) fatty acid and ester mixture in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0138] The amount of (c) fatty acid and ester mixture in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0139] [Water]
[0140] The composition according to the present invention may include a limited amount (d) of water.
[0141] The quantity of (d) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.005% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.01% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0142] The quantity of (d) water may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 8% by weight or less, and more preferably 6% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0143] The quantity of (d) water can be from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 8% by weight, and more preferably from 0.01% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0144] In one embodiment, the composition according to the present invention may not include water.
[0145] [Monovalent C2_4 alcohol]
[0146] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (e) at least one monovalent C2.4 alcohol. Two or more different types of monovalent C2.4 alcohols may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of (e) monovalent C2.4 alcohol or a combination of different types of (e) monovalent C2.4 alcohols may be used.
[0147] The monovalent C2 4 alcohol is not a fatty alcohol or a higher alcohol.
[0148] The term "monovalent" alcohol here means an alcohol having a hydroxy group.
[0149] The monovalent C24 alcohol may be non-aromatic (aliphatic).
[0150] The monovalent C2 4 alcohol (e) is preferably a monovalent alcohol C2.4 aliphatic, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched. Preferred monovalent C2.4 alcohols are ethanol, isopropanol, and mixtures thereof.
[0151] The quantity of the monovalent C2.4 alcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 5% by weight or more, and more preferably 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0152] The quantity of the monovalent C2.4 alcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 40% by weight or less, preferably 35% by weight or less, and more preferably 30% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0153] The quantity of the monovalent C2.4 alcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 5% to 35% by weight, and more preferably from 10% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0154] [Fat alcohol]
[0155] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (f) at least one fatty alcohol. Two or more different types of fatty alcohols may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of (f) fatty alcohol or a combination of different types of (f) fatty alcohols may be used.
[0156] The term "fatty" here means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols that have 6 or more, preferably 8 or more, and more preferably 10 or more carbon atoms, are encompassed within the scope of fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated. A fatty alcohol may be linear or branched. Two or more fatty alcohols may be used in combination.
[0157] The (f) fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH in which R is selected from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, for example from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R is selected from Ci2-C24 alkyl and Ci2-C24 alkenyl groups. R may or may not be substituted by at least one hydroxyl group.
[0158] By way of non-limiting examples of (f) fatty alcohol, one may mention lauric alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonylic alcohol, erucyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.
[0159] Examples of suitable fatty alcohols include, but are not limited to, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.
[0160] Fatty alcohol can represent a mixture of fatty alcohols, meaning that several species of fatty alcohol can coexist, in the form of a mixture, in a commercial product.
[0161] According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohol used in the composition according to the present invention is chosen from a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol (cetearyl alcohol).
[0162] The quantity of the (f) fatty alcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0163] The quantity of the (f) fatty alcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0164] The quantity of the (f) fatty alcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0165] [Other ingredients]
[0166] The composition according to the present invention may include all the optional ingredients traditionally used in cosmetics for a keratinous substance such as skin, in particular the scalp, and hair, such as anionic, nonionic, cationic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers, or mixtures thereof; anionic, nonionic, cationic (other than ingredient (b)), amphoteric surfactants; thickening agents; perfumes; acidifying agents such as lactic acid, alkalizing agents, tonics such as menthol; preservatives; and opacifying agents.
[0167] [Composition]
[0168] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential and optional ingredients above according to any of the processes which are well known to a person skilled in the art.
[0169] The composition according to the present invention can be in the form of a fluid, preferably a liquid or a paste, and more preferably a liquid, at ambient temperature such as 25 °C under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg or 105Pa).
[0170] The composition according to the present invention may be a cosmetic composition, preferably a cosmetic composition for a keratinous substance and more preferably a cosmetic composition for the scalp and / or hair.
[0171] The composition according to the present invention can be used for skin care, particularly for the scalp. Preferably, the composition according to the present invention can be used as a scalp conditioner.
[0172] The composition according to the present invention can also be used for hair care. Thus, the composition according to the present invention can be used as a hair conditioner.
[0173] The composition according to the present invention may be of the no-rinse or rinse-off type. The no-rinse composition is not removed by rinsing after being used on a keratinous substance. The rinse-off composition is removed by rinsing after being used on a keratinous substance.
[0174] For example, the composition according to the present invention may be in the form of a lotion, a spray, a tonic and the like.
[0175] The composition according to the present invention can also be used as an ampoule in which the composition according to the present invention is poured into a bottle preferably with a nozzle cap.
[0176] [Cosmetic process]
[0177] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating a keratinous substance, such as the scalp or hair, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratinous substance.
[0178] The composition according to the present invention can be applied to the scalp / hair by first applying it to the hands and then bringing the scalp / hair into contact with the hands. In another embodiment, the composition according to the present invention can be applied directly to the scalp / hair by spraying, for example. In other embodiments, the composition according to the present invention can be applied to the scalp / hair using an applicator or device, such as a brush or nozzle.
[0179] The composition according to the present invention can be applied to a keratinous substance such as the scalp and hair, for a leave-in treatment or a rinse-off treatment.
[0180] In one embodiment of the present invention, the composition according to the present invention can be used as a scalp or hair care composition or as a scalp or hair revitalizing composition.
[0181] [Use]
[0182] The present invention may also relate to the use of (b) at least one fatty amine or a salt thereof in a composition comprising:
[0183] (a) at least one polyol;
[0184] (c) a mixture of fatty acid and ester; and
[0185] (d) water
[0186] in which
[0187] the amount of (d) water in the composition is 10% by weight or less, preferably 8% by weight or less, and more preferably 6% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition,
[0188] in order to stabilize the composition.
[0189] The present invention may also relate to a use of (d) water in a composition comprising:
[0190] (a) at least one polyol;
[0191] (b) at least one fatty amine or a salt thereof; and
[0192] (c) a mixture of fatty acid and ester
[0193] in which
[0194] the quantity of (d) water in the composition can be controlled to be 10% by weight or less, preferably 8% by weight or less, and more preferably 6% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition,
[0195] in order to stabilize the composition.
[0196] The present invention may also relate to the use of (b) at least one fatty amine or a salt thereof and (d) water in a composition comprising:
[0197] (a) at least one polyol; and
[0198] (c) a mixture of fatty acid and ester
[0199] in which
[0200] the quantity of (d) water in the composition can be controlled to be 10% by weight or less, preferably 8% by weight or less, and more preferably 6% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition,
[0201] in order to stabilize the composition.
[0202] The explanations of ingredients (a) to (d) above for the composition according to the present invention can also be applied to ingredients (a) to (d) above for use according to the present invention. EXAMPLES
[0203] The present invention will be described in more detail by means of examples. However, these examples should not be interpreted as limiting the scope of the present invention. The examples below are presented as non-limiting illustrations within the scope of the invention. Examples 1 to 4 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5
[0204] [Preparations]
[0205] The following compositions, according to Examples (Ex.) 1 to 4 and Comparative Examples (Ex. Comp.) 1 to 5, shown in Table 1, were prepared by mixing the components shown in Table 1 at room temperature. Unless otherwise indicated, the numerical values of the quantities of the components shown in Table 1 are all based on "% by weight" of raw materials. The total quantities of acid, menthol, and thickener are 2.0% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0206] [Tables 1] Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Ex. 4 Ex. Comp. 1 Ex. Co mp. 2 Ex. Co mp. 3 Ex. Co mp. 4 Ex. Co mp. 5 Propylene glycol q.s. 100 q.s. 100 q.s. 100 q.s. 100 q.s. 100 q.s. 100 q.s. 100 q.s. 100 q.s. 100 Water 0.0 55 0.0 55 5.0 55 0.0 55 35.055 15.055 35.055 35.055 0.055 Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil 0.5 1 1 5 0.5 1 1 5 1 Stearamidopropyl dimethylamine 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 - Ethanol 19 19 19 19 19 19 19 19 19 Cetyl alcohol 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 Cetearyl alcohol 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Myristyl alcohol 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 Lactic acid qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs Menthol qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs Thickener qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs Stability (TA) Good Good Good Good Good Bad Bad Bad Good Stability (50 °C) Good Good Good Good Good Good Good Good Good Good Good Stability (under UV) Good Good Good Good Good Good Good Good Good Good Good
[0207] [Evaluations]
[0208] (Stability (TA))
[0209] Each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 4 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5, in a quantity of 100 g immediately after their preparation, was loaded into a transparent glass container at room temperature (25 °C). The appearance of each composition at room temperature (RT) was visually assessed according to the following criteria.
[0210] Good: No solidification was observed.
[0211] Bad: Solidification has been observed.
[0212] The results are shown in the row titled “Stability (TA)” in Table 1.
[0213] (Stability (50 °Q)
[0214] Each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 4 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5, in a quantity of 100 g immediately after their preparation, was loaded into a transparent glass container and maintained at 50 °C for 7 days, then cooled to room temperature (25 °C). The appearance of each composition at room temperature was visually assessed according to the following criteria.
[0215] Good: No phase separation was observed.
[0216] Bad: Phase separation has been observed.
[0217] The results are shown in the line entitled “Stability (50 °C)” of Table 1.
[0218] (Stability (UV))
[0219] Each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 4 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5, in a quantity of 100 g immediately after their preparation, was placed in a transparent glass container and irradiated with UV radiation (1500 W xenon lamp) for 24 hours at room temperature (25 °C). The appearance of each composition at room temperature was visually assessed according to the following criteria.
[0220] Good: No phase separation was observed.
[0221] Bad: Phase separation has been observed.
[0222] The results are shown in the row titled “Stability (UV)” in Table 1.
[0223] (Summary)
[0224] The compositions according to Examples 1 to 4, which correspond to the present invention, show superior stability, in terms of non-solidification and non-phase separation, even under heat and UV irradiation conditions.
[0225] The compositions according to Comparative Examples there 4, which contained a substantial amount of water, were not stable enough to solidify.
[0226] The composition according to Comparative Example 5, which did not contain a fatty amine, was also not stable enough to cause phase separation under heat and UV irradiation conditions.
Claims
Demands
1. Composition, comprising: (a) at least one polyol; (b) at least one fatty amine or a salt thereof; said (b) fatty amine(s) having a substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbon group of 6 to 22 carbon atoms, and wherein the amount of (b) fatty amine(s) in the composition is from 0.1% to 5% by weight; (c) a mixture of fatty acid and ester; wherein the fatty acids are monocarboxylic acids having 6 to 20 carbon atoms; and (d) water, wherein the amount of (d) water in the composition is 10% by weight or less, preferably 8% by weight or less, and more preferably 6% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein (a) polyol is selected from glycols, preferably selected from the group consisting of caprylyl glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably is propylene glycol.
3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the amount of the (a) polyol(s) in the composition ranges from 10% to 90% by weight, preferably from 20% to 85% by weight, and more preferably from 30% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein (b) fatty amine is selected from the alkylamidoamines, preferably the C6 22 alkylamido C, 6 dialkylamines, and more preferably is stearamidopropyldimethylamine.
5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the amount of the (b) fatty amine(s) in the composition ranges from 0.5% to 4% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the (cl) fatty acid component comprises at least 3 fatty acids selected from the group consisting of caprylic acid, acid capric, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid and arachidic acid, and the corresponding glycerides of each fatty acid in the (cl) fatty acid component are used as the (c2) monoester component, preferably the (cl) fatty acid component comprises caprylic acid, capric acid and lauric acid, while the (c2) monoester component comprises monocaprylin, monocaprine and monolaurin, wherein the weight ratio between the total amount of fatty acids in the (cl) fatty acid component and the total amount of monoesters in the (c2) monoester component ranges from 4:1 to 1:1, preferably from 3:1 to 1:1, and more preferably from 2.5:1 to 1.5:
1.
7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, further comprising (e) at least one monovalent C2^ alcohol.
8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, further comprising (f) at least one fatty alcohol.
9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the composition is in the form of a liquid at a temperature of 25 °C under atmospheric pressure.
10. Cosmetic process for treating a keratinous substance, such as scalp and hair, comprising the step of applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 on the keratinous substance.