W / H COMPOSITION COMPRISING AN IONICALLY CROSS-CUT CATIONIC POLYMER SELECTED FROM CHITOSANS AND POLYLYSINS

Abstract

W / H COMPOSITION COMPRISING AN IONICALLY CROSS-CROSSED CATIONIC POLYMER SELECTED FROM CHITOSANS AND POLYLYSINS. The present invention relates to a composition comprising a plurality of aqueous phases comprising: (a) at least one cationic polymer; (b) at least one non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values ​​or a salt thereof; and (c) water, and an oily phase comprising: (d) at least one oil, in which the aqueous phases are dispersed within the oily phase, and (a) the cationic polymer is selected from the group consisting of polylysins, chitosans, and mixtures thereof, preferably from chitosans. The composition according to the present invention can provide at least good hydration to a keratinous substance such as skin. Figure for abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: W / O COMPOSITION COMPRISING AN IONICALLY CROSS-CROSSED CATIONIC POLYMER SELECTED FROM CHITOSANS AND POLYLYSINS technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a W / O (water in oil) composition comprising an ionically crosslinked cationic polymer selected from chitosans, polylysines and mixtures thereof, and to a cosmetic process using the composition. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] As is known in art, certain cosmetic compositions use a polyionic complex, which is formed with an anionic polymer and a cationic polymer.

[0003] For example, WO 2021 / 125069 discloses a composition that is useful for cosmetic treatments and comprises at least one polyionic complex particle comprising at least one cationic polymer, at least one anionic polymer, and at least one non-polymer acid having two or more pKa values. WO 2021 / 125069 also indicates that the composition shown therein may include oil and may be in the form of an emulsion. DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION

[0004] However, the composition disclosed in document WO 2021 / 125069 was found to be stable only when it included a very limited amount of oil, such as 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. When the composition disclosed therein includes a relatively large amount of oil, it tends to be unstable. Thus, the composition disclosed in WO 2021 / 125069 is in the form of oil in water (O / W).

[0005] There is a need for an O / W composition that can provide good hydration to a keratinous substance such as skin.

[0006] Thus, an objective of the present invention is to propose an O / W composition which can offer at least good hydration to a keratinous substance such as skin.

[0007] The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a composition, of preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably, a cosmetic composition for a keratinous substance such as skin, comprising:

[0008] a plurality of aqueous phases comprising:

[0009] (a) at least one cationic polymer;

[0010] (b) at least one non-polymeric acid having two or more than two pKa values or a salt of it;

[0011] (c) water,

[0012] and

[0013] a fatty phase comprising:

[0014] (d) at least one oil,

[0015] in which

[0016] the aqueous phases are dispersed in the oily phase, and

[0017] the (a) cationic polymer is chosen from the group consisting of chitosans, polylysines and mixtures thereof, preferably from chitosans.

[0018] The quantity of the (a) cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight and, more preferably, from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0019] The (b) non-polymeric acid having two or more of two pKa values ​​or a salt thereof may be an organic acid or a salt thereof, preferably a hydrophilic or water-soluble organic acid or a salt thereof and, more preferably, phytic acid or a salt thereof.

[0020] The quantity of (b) non-polymer acid(s) having two or more pKa values ​​or of salt(s) thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.003% to 5% by weight and, more preferably, from 0.005% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0021] The quantity of (c) water in the composition according to the present invention can be from 10% to 50% by weight, preferably from 15% to 45% by weight and more preferably from 20% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0022] The quantity of the oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 10% to 50% by weight, preferably from 15% to 45% by weight, and more preferably from 20% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0023] The aqueous phase in the composition according to the present invention may further comprise (e) at least one anionic polymer.

[0024] The (e) anionic polymer may be selected from the group consisting of polysaccharides such as alginic acid, hyaluronic acid and cellulose polymers, anionic (co)polyamino acids such as (co)polyglutamic acids, (co)poly(meth)acrylic acids, (co)polyamic acids, styrene (co)polysulfonate, vinyl (co)poly(sulfates), dextran sulfate, the chondroitin sulfate, maleic (co)polyacids, fumaric (co)polyacids, maleic acid (co)polymers, and their salts.

[0025] The quantity of the anionic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.001% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 10% by weight and, more preferably, from 0.01% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0026] The fatty phase in the composition according to the present invention may further comprise (f) at least one fatty acid, preferably selected from saturated and unsaturated fatty acids, linear or branched in C4-C26, more preferably in C6-C24 and even more preferably in C8-C22.

[0027] The quantity of the (f) fatty acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight and, more preferably, from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0028] The oily phase in the composition according to the present invention may further comprise (g) at least one organically modified clay, preferably organically modified hectorite and more preferably disteardimonium hectorite.

[0029] The quantity of aqueous phases in the composition according to the present invention can be from 30% to 70% by weight, preferably from 35% to 65% by weight, and more preferably from 40% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0030] The quantity of the aqueous phase in the composition according to the present invention can be from 30% to 70% by weight, preferably from 35% to 65% by weight, and more preferably from 40% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0031] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for a keratinous substance such as skin, comprising

[0032] the application to the keratinous substance of the composition according to the present invention; and

[0033] drying the composition to form a cosmetic film on the keratinous substance. Best embodiment of the invention

[0034] After careful research, the inventors discovered that it is possible to propose an O / W composition that can offer at least good hydration to a keratinous substance such as skin.

[0035] Thus, the composition according to the present invention comprises:

[0036] a plurality of aqueous phases comprising:

[0037] (a) at least one cationic polymer;

[0038] (b) at least one non-polymeric acid having two or more than two pKa values or a salt of it;

[0039] (c) water,

[0040] and

[0041] a fatty phase comprising:

[0042] (d) at least one oil,

[0043] in which

[0044] the aqueous phases are dispersed in the oily phase, and

[0045] the (a) cationic polymer is chosen from the group consisting of chitosans, polylysines and mixtures thereof, preferably from chitosans.

[0046] The (a) cationic polymer can be ionically crosslinked by the (b) non-polymeric acid having at least two pKa values ​​or a salt thereof.

[0047] The composition according to the present invention can provide good hydration to a keratinous substance such as skin. Thus, the composition according to the present invention can provide a keratinous substance such as skin with good moisturizing (wetting) effects that can be long-lasting.

[0048] The composition according to the present invention can also offer anti-grease and / or anti-color transfer and / or anti-adhesion to a keratinous substance such as skin.

[0049] Thus, the composition according to the present invention can provide anti-shine effects that can be long-lasting. Furthermore, the composition according to the present invention can provide anti-color transfer effects, for example, from a face with makeup such as foundation to a mask, which can be long-lasting. In addition, the composition according to the present invention can provide a good texture, such as a non-sticky feel, which can be long-lasting.

[0050] If the composition includes (f) at least one fatty acid, the color transfer-resistant effects provided by the composition according to the present invention can be further enhanced.

[0051] Since chitosans and polylysins can be obtained from natural resources, (a) the cationic polymer is an environmentally friendly ingredient. Thus, the composition according to the present invention may include an environmentally friendly ingredient.

[0052] The composition according to the present invention comprises a plurality of aqueous phases, in the form of dispersed or discontinuous phases, comprising (c) water.

[0053] The composition according to the present invention comprises a fatty phase, as a continuous phase, comprising (d) oil. If the composition according to the present invention includes (f) at least one fatty acid and / or (g) at least one organo-modified clay, it or they may be present in the oil phase.

[0054] The (a) cationic polymer can be hydrophobicated by the (f) fatty acid. A portion of the hydrophobicated cationic polymer (a) can be present between the oil phase and the aqueous phases to stabilize the aqueous phases. Thus, the aqueous phases can be stably dispersed within the oil phase.

[0055] The composition according to the present invention is stable for a long period. In other words, phase separation of the composition according to the present invention can be prevented for a long period.

[0056] Consequently, the composition according to the present invention can be stored for a long period.

[0057] The composition according to the present invention may be particularly useful for a foundation or makeup base which includes a large amount of an oily phase, as it can offer long-lasting makeup and / or hydration effects.

[0058] The present invention will be explained in more detail below. [Composition]

[0059] (Cationic polymer)

[0060] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one cationic polymer.

[0061] There is no limitation on the type of (a) cationic polymer. Two or more different types of cationic polymers may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of cationic polymer or a combination of different types of cationic polymers may be used.

[0062] A cationic polymer has a positive charge density. The charge density of (a) the cationic polymer can be between 0.01 meq / g and 20 meq / g, preferably between 0.05 and 15 meq / g and, more preferably, between 0.1 and 10 meq / g.

[0063] The (a) cationic polymer can be included in the aqueous phase including (c) water.

[0064] According to the present invention, the (a) cationic polymer is selected from the group consisting of chitosans, polylysines and mixtures thereof.

[0065] It is preferable to choose the (a) cationic polymer from among the chitosans.

[0066] The molecular weight (Da) of the (a) cationic polymer may be less than 20,000, preferably less than 15,000 and, more preferably, less than 10,000. In other words, the (a) cationic polymer may be a low molecular weight chitosan.

[0067] The molecular weight (Da) of the (a) cationic polymer may be greater than 1,000, preferably greater than 1,500 and more preferably greater than 2,000.

[0068] Thus, the molecular weight (Da) of the (a) cationic polymer can be greater than 1,000 and less than 20,000, preferably greater than 1,500 and less than 15,000, and more preferably greater than 2,000 and less than 10,000.

[0069] Unless otherwise specified in the descriptions, "molecular weight" means average molecular weight. Molecular weight can be measured or determined by gel permeation chromatography, for example, in accordance with ASTM D5296-19.

[0070] Chitosan is very rare in nature. It is only reported in the exoskeletons of certain insects such as termite queens and in the cell walls of a particular class of fungi, the zygomycetes.

[0071] Chitosan can be obtained by deacetylation of chitin. Chitin is a polysaccharide composed of several N-acetyl-D-glucosamine motifs linked together by a [3 (1,4) type bond.

[0072] The ideal chemical structure of chitosan is a sequence of [3-D-glucosamine] monomers linked by a glycosidic bond (1—>4).

[0073] “Chitosan” according to the present invention means any copolymer formed of motifs The constituents are N-acetyl-D-glucosamine and D-glucosamine, with a degree of acetylation of less than 90%, preferably less than 80%, preferably less than 70%, preferably less than 60%, preferably less than 50%. Chitosan consists of glucosamine sugar motifs (deacetylated motifs) and N-acetyl-D-glucosamine motifs (acetylated motifs) linked together by [3(1,4)] type bonds and is a poly(N-acetyl-D-glucosamine)-poly(D-glucosamine) polymer.

[0074] More preferably, the degree of acetylation of chitosan is less than or equal to 40%, preferably less than or equal to 35%, preferably less than or equal to 25%, preferably less than or equal to 15%, and preferably less than or equal to 10%.

[0075] The degree of acetylation is the percentage of acetylated motifs relative to the total number of motifs; it can be determined by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) or by titration with a strong base.

[0076] The chitosan of the present invention is preferably a polysaccharide prepared from a fungal source. In particular, it is extracted and purified from safe and abundant food sources or from biotechnological fungal sources such as Agaricus bisporus or Aspergillus niger.

[0077] The chitosan of the present invention is preferably derived from the mycelium of an Ascomycete fungus, in particular Aspergillus niger, and / or a Basidiomycete fungus, in particular Lentinula edodes (shiitake) and / or Agaricus bisporus. Preferably, the fungus is Aspergillus niger.

[0078] Chitosan may be of GMO (Genetically Modified Organisms) origin, but preferably of non-GMO origin.

[0079] The chitosan according to the present invention is native, that is to say, it is not modified. In particular, it contains no chemical modification.

[0080] One method for preparing chitosan is that described in WO03 / 068824.

[0081] Preferably, the chitosan used in the present invention is in powder form. It is marketed by Glentham Life Science under the name GU3511.

[0082] Polylysine is also well known.

[0083] Polylysine can be a natural homopolymer of L-lysine that can be produced by bacterial fermentation. For example, polylysine can be ε-Poly-L-lysine, commonly used as a natural preservative in food products. Polylysine is a polyelectrolyte that is soluble in polar solvents such as water, propylene glycol, and glycerol. Polylysine is commercially available in various forms, such as poly-D-lysine and poly-L-lysine. Poly-L-lysine is preferred. Polylysine can be in the form of a salt and / or a solution.

[0084] The quantity of the (a) cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more and, more preferably, 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0085] The quantity of the (a) cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less and, more preferably, 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0086] The quantity of the (a) cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight and, more preferably, from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0087] (Non-polymeric acid having two or more acid dissociation constants)

[0088] The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one non-polymer acid having two or more pKa values ​​or a salt thereof, i.e., at least one non-polymer acid having two or more acid dissociation constants or a salt thereof. The pKa value (acid dissociation constant) is well known to those skilled in the art and should be determined at a constant temperature such as 25 °C.

[0089] The (b) non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values, or a salt thereof, may be included in the aqueous phase including (c) water. The (b) non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values ​​may act as a crosslinking agent for the (a) cationic polymer.

[0090] The term "non-polymer" here means that the acid is not obtained by polymerizing two or more monomers. Therefore, a non-polymer acid does not correspond to an acid obtained by polymerizing two or more monomers, such as polyacrylic acid.

[0091] Preferably the molecular weight of the non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values ​​or of a salt thereof is 1000 or less, preferably 800 or less, and more preferably 700 or less.

[0092] There is no limit to the type of (b) nonpolymer acid having two or more pKa values ​​or a salt thereof. Two or more different types of (b) nonpolymer acids having two or more pKa values ​​or salts thereof may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of (b) nonpolymer acid having two or more pKa values ​​or a salt thereof, or a combination of different types of (b) nonpolymer acids having two or more pKa values ​​or salts thereof, may be used.

[0093] The term "salt" herein means a salt formed by the addition of suitable base(s) to a non-polymer acid having two or more pKa values, which can be obtained from a reaction with the non-polymer acid having two or more pKa values ​​with the base(s) according to processes known to those skilled in the art. Examples of salts include metal salts, for example, alkali metal salts such as Na and K, alkaline earth metal salts such as Mg and Ca, and ammonium salts.

[0094] The non-polymer acid having two or more pKa values ​​or a salt thereof may be an organic acid or a salt thereof, and preferably a hydrophilic or water-soluble organic acid or a salt thereof.

[0095] The non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values ​​may have at least two acid groups selected from the group consisting of a carboxylic group, a sulfuric group, a sulfonic group, a phosphoric group, a phosphonic group, a phenolic hydroxyl group and a mixture of these.

[0096] The non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values ​​may be a non-polymeric polyvalent acid such as phosphoric acid.

[0097] The non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values ​​can be chosen from the group consisting of dicarboxylic acids, disulfonic acids and diphosphoric acids, and a mixture of these.

[0098] The (b) non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values ​​or a salt thereof may be selected from the group consisting of oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, malic acid, citric acid, aconitic acid, oxaloacetic acid, tartaric acid and their salts; aspartic acid, glutamic acid and their salts; acid sulfoniquetéréphtalylidène dicamphre ou leurs sels (Mexoryl SX), la Benzophénone-9 ; l’acide phytique et ses sels ;Red 2 (Amaranth), Red 102 (New Coccine), Yellow 5 (Tartrazine), Yellow 6 (Sunset Yellow FCF), Green 3 (Fast Green FCF), Blue 1 (Brillant blue FCF), Blue 2 (Indigo Carminé), Red 201 (Lithol Rubine B), Red 202 (Lithol Rubine B), (Lithol Rubine BCA), Red 204 (Lake Red CBA), Red 206 (Lithol Red CA), Red 207 (Lithol Red BA), Red 208 (Lithol Red SR), Red 219 (Brilliant Lake Red R), Red 220 (Deep Maroon), Red 227 (Fast Acid Magenta), Yellow 203 (Quinoline Yellow WS), Green 201 (Alizanine Cyanine Green F), Green 204 (Pyranine Conc), Green 205 (Light Green SF Yellowish), Blue 203 (Patent Blue CA), Blue 205 (Alfazurine FG), Red 401 (Violamine R), Red 405 (Permanent Re F5R), Red 502 (Ponceau 3R), Red 503 (Ponceau R), Red 504 (Ponceau SX), Green 401 (Naphthol Green B), Green 402 (Guinea Green B), and Black 401 (Naphthol Blue Black);folic acid, ascorbic acid, erythorbic acid and their salts; cystine and its salts; EDTA and its salts; glycyrrhizin and its salts; and a mixture of these.

[0099] It may be preferable that the (b) non-polymer acid having two or more of two pKa values ​​or one of its salts be chosen from the group consisting of terephthalylidene diamphrulfonic acid and its salts (Mexoryl SX), Yellow 6 (Sunset Yellow FCF), ascorbic acid, phytic acid and its salts, and a mixture of these.

[0100] The (b) non-polymeric acid having two or more of two pKa values ​​or a salt thereof may be an organic acid or a salt thereof, preferably a hydrophilic or water-soluble organic acid or a salt thereof and, more preferably, phytic acid or a salt thereof.

[0101] The amount of the (b) non-polymer acid(s) having two or more of two pKa values ​​or salt(s) thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.003% by weight or more and, more preferably, 0.005% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0102] The quantity of the (c) non-polymer acid(s) having two or more of two pKa values ​​or salt(s) thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0103] The quantity of (b) non-polymer acid(s) having two or more pKa values ​​or of salt(s) thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.003% to 5% by weight and, more preferably, from 0.005% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0104] (Water)

[0105] The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) water.

[0106] Water (c) can constitute the aqueous phases, which can be dispersed or discontinuous phases, in the composition according to the present invention.

[0107] The quantity of (c) water may be 10% by weight or more, preferably 15% by weight or more and more preferably 20% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0108] Furthermore, the quantity of (c) water may be 50% by weight or less, preferably 45% by weight or less and more preferably 40% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0109] The quantity of (c) water can be from 10% to 50% by weight, preferably from 15% to 45% by weight and more preferably from 20% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0110] (Oil)

[0111] The composition according to the present invention comprises (d) at least one oil. If two (d) or more oils are used, they may be identical or different.

[0112] The (d) oil(s) may constitute a fatty phase, which may be a continuous phase, in the composition according to the present invention.

[0113] Here, "oil" means a fatty compound or oily substance that is in the form of a liquid or a paste (not a solid) at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). Oils commonly used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0114] The (d) oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil or the like; a polar oil such as a vegetable or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.

[0115] The (d) oil may be chosen from the group consisting of oils of vegetable or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils and fatty alcohols.

[0116] Examples of vegetable oils include apricot oil, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil and mixtures thereof.

[0117] Examples of animal oils include squalene and squalane.

[0118] Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as than isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils and artificial triglycerides.

[0119] Ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or C1-C26 branched aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of monoalcohols or saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci-C26 aliphatic polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

[0120] Preferably, for monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol and acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.

[0121] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate may be mentioned.

[0122] Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols, as well as esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C4-C26 non-sugar dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols, can also be used.

[0123] Reference may in particular be made to the following compounds: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylethyl ethylyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neotyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate.

[0124] Sugar esters and C6-C30 fatty acid diesters, and preferably C12-C22-H, can be used as ester oils. It should be noted that the term "sugar" refers to hydrocarbon compounds bearing oxygen, containing several alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups, and comprising at least four carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.

[0125] Examples of suitable sugars that may be cited include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose and their derivatives, including alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.

[0126] Sugar esters of fatty acids may be selected in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of linear or branched fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated in C6-C30, and preferably in C12-C22. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0127] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, polyesters and their mixtures.

[0128] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.

[0129] More particularly, monoesters and diesters are used, and in particular monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.

[0130] An example that can be cited is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0131] Examples of preferred ester oils include, for instance, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyle propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, stearate isocetyl, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

[0132] Examples of artificial triglycerides include, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate) and glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate / linolenate).

[0133] Examples of silicone oils include linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.

[0134] Preferably, the silicone oil is selected from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.

[0135] These silicone oils can also be organo-modified. The organo-modified silicones that can be used according to the present invention are silicone oils as defined above, and comprise in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.

[0136] Organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in Walter Noll's Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academy Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0137] When volatile, silicones are particularly chosen from those having a boiling point between 60 °C and 260 °C, and more particularly from:

[0138] (i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising 3 to 7 and preferably, 4 to 5 silicon atoms. Examples include octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia; decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide and Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia; and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane, sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and their mixtures. Also noteworthy are cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109, sold by Union Carbide, with the formula: gg ------D g -- CHa *-------------------------------CHA aveoD": -SFO — awc Ds: § » CK C$H17

[0139] Other examples include mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetramethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,r-bis(2,2',2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane; and

[0140] (ii) Linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5 x 10⁶ m² / s at 25 °C. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane, sold notably under the name SH 200 by Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 1976, pp. 27–32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of silicones is measured at 25 °C according to ASTM 445 Annex C.

[0141] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes can also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from among the polydialkylsiloxanes, among which the main examples are polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl terminal groups.

[0142] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following commercial products may be cited, without limitation: • Silbione® oils from the 47 and 70 047 ranges or Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia, for example oil 70 047 V 500 000; • the oils from the Mirasil® range sold by the company Rhodia; • Dow Corning's 200 series oils, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60,000 mm² / s; and • Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils from the SF range (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.

[0143] We can also mention polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol terminal groups known as dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils in the 48 range from the Rhodia company.

[0144] Among silicones containing aryl groups, we can mention polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as phenyl silicone oil.

[0145] The phenyl silicone oil may be selected from phenyl silicones of the following formula:

[0146] in which

[0147] Ri at Rio are, independently of each other, saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched Ci-C30 hydrocarbon-based radicals, preferably CrCi2 hydrocarbon-based radicals and more preferably Ci-C6 hydrocarbon-based radicals, in particular methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl radicals, and

[0148] m, n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers from 0 to 900 inclusive, preferably from 0 to 500 inclusive and, more preferably, from 0 to 100 inclusive,

[0149] provided that the sum n+m+q is not 0.

[0150] The products sold under the following names are examples that can be cited: • Silbione® oils from the 70 641 range by Rhodia; • the oils from the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 ranges from Rhodia; • Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid oil from Dow Corning; • silicones from Bayer's PK range, such as product PK20; • certain oils from the General Electric SF range, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

[0151] As a phenyl silicone oil, phenyl trimethicone (Ri to Rio are methyl; p, q and n = 0; m=l in the formula above) is preferable.

[0152] Organomodified liquid silicones may, in particular, contain polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups. Examples include KF-6017 silicone offered by Shin-Etsu, and Silwet® L722 and L77 oils from Union Carbide.

[0153] Hydrocarbon oils may be selected from: • Lower C6-Ci6 alkanes, linear or branched, possibly cyclic. Examples include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for example isohexadecane, isododecane, and isodecane; and • linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, hydrogenated polydecenes and polyisobutenes such as Parleam® and squalane.

[0154] Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils include, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, Vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane and decene / butene copolymer and mixtures thereof.

[0155] The term "fatty" in fatty alcohol means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols that have 4 or more carbon atoms, preferably 6 or more, and more preferably 12 or more carbon atoms, are encompassed within the scope of fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohols can be saturated or unsaturated. Fatty alcohols can be linear or branched.

[0156] The fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH in which R is selected from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R may be selected from alkyl groups in the form C2-C2O and alkenyl groups in the form C2-C2O. R may or may not be substituted by at least one hydroxyl group.

[0157] Examples of fatty alcohols include lauric alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonylic alcohol, erucyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

[0158] It is preferable that the fatty alcohol be a saturated fatty alcohol.

[0159] Thus, the fatty alcohol can be chosen from saturated or unsaturated C6-C30 alcohols, linear or branched, preferably from saturated C6-C30 alcohols, linear or branched, and more preferably from saturated Ci2-C2o alcohols, linear or branched.

[0160] The term "saturated fatty alcohol" here refers to an alcohol having a long, saturated aliphatic carbon chain. Preferably, the saturated fatty alcohol should be chosen from any saturated C6-C30 fatty alcohols, linear or branched. Among saturated C6-C30 fatty alcohols, linear or branched, saturated C2-C20 fatty alcohols, linear or branched, may be used preferentially. Any saturated C6-C20 fatty alcohols, linear or branched, may be used preferentially. Branched C6-C20 fatty alcohols may be used even more preferentially.

[0161] Examples of saturated fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, or a mixture thereof (e.g., cetearyl alcohol), as well as behenyl alcohol, may be used as saturated fatty alcohols.

[0162] According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohol used in the composition according to the present invention is preferably chosen from octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0163] It may be preferable to choose the (d) oil from among synthetic ester oils, hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils and mixtures thereof.

[0164] The quantity of the (d) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or more, preferably 15% by weight or more, and more preferably 20% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0165] The quantity of the oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 50% by weight or less, preferably 45% by weight or less, and more preferably 40% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0166] The quantity of the oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 10% to 50% by weight, preferably from 15% to 45% by weight, and more preferably from 20% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0167] (Anionic polymer)

[0168] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (e) at least one anionic polymer. Only one type of anionic polymer may be used, but two or more different types of anionic polymers may be used in combination.

[0169] An anionic polymer has a negative charge density. The charge density of the (e) anionic polymer can be from 0.1 meq / g to 20 meq / g, preferably from 1 to 15 meq / g and, more preferably, from 4 to 10 meq / g if the (e) anionic polymer is a synthetic anionic polymer, and the average degree of substitution of the (e) anionic polymer can be from 0.1 to 3.0, preferably from 0.2 to 2.7 and, more preferably, from 0.3 to 2.5 if the (e) anionic polymer is a natural anionic polymer.

[0170] It may be preferable that the molecular weight of the (e) anionic polymer be greater than or equal to 1,000, preferably greater than or equal to 2,000, even more preferably equal to or greater than 5,000, even more preferably greater than or equal to 10,000, even more preferably greater than or equal to 50,000 and, even more preferably greater than or equal to 100,000, greater than or equal to 1,000,000 or more.

[0171] Unless otherwise specified in the descriptions, "molecular weight" means an average molecular mass by weight.

[0172] The (e) anionic polymer may have at least one negatively chargeable and / or negatively charged fraction selected from the group consisting of a sulfuric group, a sulfate group, a sulfonic group, a sulfonate group, a phosphoric group, a phosphate group, a phosphonic group, a phosphonate group, a carboxylic group and a carboxylate group.

[0173] The (e) anionic polymer can be a homopolymer or a copolymer. By "copolymer" is meant both copolymers obtained from two kinds of monomers and those obtained from more than two kinds of monomers, such as terpolymers obtained from three kinds of monomers.

[0174] The (e) anionic polymer can be chosen from natural and synthetic anionic polymers, and preferably natural anionic polymers.

[0175] The (e) anionic polymer may comprise at least one hydrophobic chain.

[0176] The (e) anionic polymer, which may comprise at least one hydrophobic chain, can be obtained by copolymerization of a monomer (a) selected from carboxylic acids comprising an α,[3-ethylenic unsaturation (monomer α') and a 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (monomer α") with a surface-inactive monomer (b) comprising an ethyl unsaturation other than (α) and / or a monomer (c) comprising an ethyl unsaturation resulting from the reaction of an acrylic monomer comprising an α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturation or of a monomer comprising a monoethylenic unsaturation with a nonionic amphiphilic monohydric component or with a primary or secondary fatty amine.

[0177] Thus, the (e) anionic polymer with at least one hydrophobic chain can be obtained by two synthetic routes: • either by copolymerization of monomers (a1) and (c), or (a1), (b) and (c), or (a") and (c), or (a"), (b) and (c), • either by modification (and in particular by esterification or amidation) of a copolymer formed from monomers (a1) or monomers (a'") and (b), or (a) and (b), by a non-ionic amphiphilic monohydric compound or a primary or secondary fatty amine.

[0178] Reference may in particular be made, as copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, to those mentioned in the article "Micelle formation of random copolymers of sodium 2-(acrylamido)-2-methylpropane sulfonate and a nonionic surfactant macromonomer as studied by fluorescence and dynamic light scattering - Macromolecules, 2000, Vol. 33, No. 10 -3694-3704" and in applications EP-A-0 750 899 and EP-A-1 069 172.

[0179] The carboxylic acid comprising an α,[3-monoethylenic] unsaturation constituting the monomer (α1) can be chosen from many acids and, in particular, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, itaconic acid and maleic acid. Preferably it is acrylic or methacrylic acid.

[0180] The copolymer may include a (b) monomer comprising a monoethylenic unsaturation that has no surfactant properties. Preferred monomers are those that give water-insoluble polymers when homopolymerized. They may be selected, for example, from the Ci-C4 alkyl acrylates and methacrylates, such as methyl acrylate, ethyl acrylate, butyl acrylate, or the corresponding methacrylates. The most preferred monomers are methyl acrylate and ethyl acrylate. Other monomers that may be used are, for example, styrene, vinyltoluene, vinyl acetate, acrylonitrile, and vinylidene chloride. Non-reactive monomers are preferred, these monomers being those in which the single ethylenic group is the only reactive group under the polymerization conditions.However, monomers that include groups that react under the effect of heat, such as hydroxyethyl acrylate, can be used as an option.

[0181] Monomer (c) is obtained by reaction of an acrylic monomer comprising the α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturation, such as (a), or of an isocyanate monomer comprising a monoethylenic unsaturation with a nonionic monohydric amphiphilic compound or a primary or secondary fatty amine.

[0182] Nonionic monohydric amphiphilic compounds or primary or secondary fatty amines used to produce the nonionic monomer (c) are well known. Nonionic monohydric amphiphilic compounds are generally Hydrophobic alkoxylated compounds include an alkylene oxide forming the hydrophilic part of the molecule. Hydrophobic compounds are generally composed of an aliphatic alcohol or an alkylphenol, in which a carbon chain comprising at least six carbon atoms constitutes the hydrophobic part of the amphiphilic compound.

[0183] Preferred non-ionic monohydric amphiphilic compounds are compounds corresponding to the following formula (V):

[0184] R-(OCH2CHR')m-(OCH2CH2)n-OH (V)

[0185] wherein R is selected from alkyl or alkylene groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms and alkylaryl groups having alkyl radicals comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R' is selected from alkyl groups comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n is an average number from about 1 to 150 and m is an average number from about 0 to 50, provided that n is at least as large as m.

[0186] Preferably, in compounds of formula (V), the R group is selected from alkyl groups comprising 12 to 26 carbon atoms and alkylphenyl groups in which the alkyl group is C8-Ci3; the R' group is the methyl group; m = 0 and n = 1 to 25.

[0187] Preferred primary and secondary fatty amines are composed of one or two alkyl chains comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0188] The monomer used to form the nonionic urethane monomer (c) can be chosen from a wide variety of compounds. Any compound comprising a copolymerizable unsaturation, such as an acrylic, methacrylic, or allylic unsaturation, can be used. Monomer (c) can be obtained in particular from an isocyanate comprising a monoethylenic unsaturation, such as, in particular, α,α-dimethyl-m-isopropenylbenzyl isocyanate.

[0189] Monomer (c) may be selected, in particular, from acrylates, methacrylates or oxyethyl alcohol itaconates (1 to 50 EO) C6-C30, such as steareth-20 methacrylate, oxyethyl behenyl methacrylate (25 EO), oxyethylenic monocetyl itaconate (20 EO), oxyethylethyl monostearyl itaconate (20 EO) or polyoxyethylenic alcohol-modified acrylate (25 EO) Ci2-C24 and from dimethyl-m-isopropenylbenzyl ethyl alcohol isocyanates (1 to 50 EO) C6-C30, such, in particular, dimethyl-m-isopropenylbenzyl isocyanate of oxyethylenated behenyl alcohol.

[0190] According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, the (e) anionic polymer is selected from acrylic terpolymers obtained from (a) a carboxylic acid comprising an α,[3-ethylenic] unsaturation, (b) a surface-inactive monomer comprising an ethylenic unsaturation other than (a), and (c) of a nonionic urethane monomer that is the reaction product of a nonionic monohydric amphiphilic compound with an isocyanate comprising a monoethylenic unsaturation.

[0191] Reference may in particular be made, as (e) anionic polymers comprising at least one hydrophobic chain, to the following compounds: acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / alkyl acrylate terpolymer, such as the product in the form of a 30% aqueous dispersion marketed under the name Acusol 823 by Rohm & Haas; acrylates / steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer, such as the product marketed under the name Aculyn 22 by Rohm & Haas; (meth)acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / oxyethylenated behenyl methacrylate (25 EO) terpopolymer, such as the product in the form of an aqueous emulsion marketed under the name Aculyn-28 by Rohm & Haas; acrylic acid / oxyethylenated monocetyl itaconate copolymer (20 EO), such as the product in the form of a 30% aqueous dispersion marketed under the name Structure 3001 by National Starch;acrylic acid / oxyethylenated monostearyl itaconate copolymer (20°EO), such as the product in the form of a 30% aqueous dispersion marketed under the name Structure 2001 by National Starch; acrylates / acrylate modified by polyoxyethyl alcohol copolymer (25 EO) Ci2-C24, such as the 30-32% latex copolymer marketed under the name Synthalen W2000 by 3V SA; or methacrylic acid / methyl acrylate / ethoxylated behenyl alcohol dimethyl-isopropenylbenzyl isocyanate terpolymer, such as the product in the form of a 24% aqueous dispersion and comprising 40 ethylene oxide groups disclosed in document EP-A-0 173 109.

[0192] The (e) anionic polymers may also be Polyester-5, such as the product sold under the name Eastman AQ™ 55S Polymer by EASTMAN CHEMICAL of chemical formula below.

[0193] HO-GAGAGAGAGAGAGAGAG-OH

[0194] 11

[0195] SO3 Na+ SO3 Na+

[0196] A: dicarboxylic acid fraction

[0197] G: glycol fraction

[0198] SO3 Na+: sodium sulfo group

[0199] OH: hydroxyl group

[0200] It may be preferable that the (e) anionic polymer be chosen from the group consisting of polysaccharides such as alginic acid, hyaluronic acid and cellulose polymers (e.g., carboxymethylcellulose), (co)polyamino acids anionic such as glutamic (co)polyacids, (co)polyacids (meth)acrylic, (co)polyamic acids, styrene (co)polysulfonate, (co)poly(vinyl sulfate), dextran sulfate, chondroitin sulfate, maleic (co)polyacids, fumaric (co)polyacids, maleic acid (co)polymers, and their salts.

[0201] The maleic acid copolymer may comprise one or more maleic acid comonomers, and one or more comonomers selected from vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, vinylpyrrolidone, olefins comprising 2 to 20 carbon atoms and styrene.

[0202] The term “maleic acid copolymer” means any polymer obtained by copolymerizing one or more maleic acid comonomers with one or more comonomers selected from vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, vinylpyrrolidone, olefins comprising 2 to 20 carbon atoms, such as octadecene, ethylene, isobutylene, diisobutylene or isoottylene, and styrene, the maleic acid comonomers optionally being partially or completely hydrolyzed. Preferably, hydrophilic polymers are used, namely polymers having a water solubility greater than or equal to 2 g / L.

[0203] In an advantageous aspect of the present invention, the maleic acid copolymer may have a mole fraction of maleic acid motifs between 0.1 and 1, more preferably between 0.4 and 0.9.

[0204] The average molar mass by weight of the maleic acid copolymer can be between 1,000 and 500,000 and preferably between 1,000 and 50,000.

[0205] It is preferable that the maleic acid copolymer be a styrene / maleic acid copolymer and, more preferably, a styrene / maleic acid copolymer.

[0206] Preferably, a 50 / 50 copolymer of styrene and maleic acid will be used.

[0207] For example, the styrene / maleic acid copolymer (50 / 50), in the form of a 30% ammonium salt in water, marketed under the reference SMA1000H® by Cray Valley, or the styrene / maleic acid copolymer (50 / 50), in the form of a 40% sodium salt in water, marketed under the reference SMAlOOOHNa® by Cray Valley, may be used.

[0208] The use of the styrene / maleic acid copolymer such as a sodium styrene / maleic acid copolymer can improve the wettability of a film prepared by the composition according to the present invention.

[0209] In a preferred embodiment, the (e) anionic polymer can be selected from hyaluronic acid, its salts (e.g., sodium hyaluronate) and their derivatives.

[0210] Hyaluronic acid can be represented by the following chemical formula.

[0211] In the context of the present invention, the term "hyaluronic acid" covers in particular the basic motif of hyaluronic acid of formula:

[0212] This is the smallest fraction of hyaluronic acid comprising a disaccharide dimer, namely D-glucuronic acid and N-acetylglucosamine.

[0213] The expression "hyaluronic acid and its derivatives" also includes, in the context of the present invention, the linear polymer comprising the polymeric motif described above, linked together in the chain via alternating glycosidic linkages [3(1,4) and [3(1,3), having a molecular weight (MW) that can vary between 380 and 13,000,000 daltons. This molecular weight depends largely on the source from which the hyaluronic acid is obtained and / or the preparation processes.

[0214] The expression "hyaluronic acid and its derivatives" also includes, in the context of the present invention, hyaluronic acid salts. Salts may include alkali metal salts such as sodium and potassium salts, alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salts, ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0215] In its natural state, hyaluronic acid is present in pericellular gels, in the basic substance of connective tissues of vertebrate organs such as the dermis and epithelial tissues and, in particular, in the epidermis, in the synovial fluid of joints, in the vitreous humor, in the human umbilical cord and in the crista galli apophysis.

[0216] Thus, the term "hyaluronic acid and its derivatives" includes all fractions or subunits of hyaluronic acid having a molecular mass in particular within the molecular mass range recalled above.

[0217] In the context of the present invention, hyaluronic acid fractions that do not have inflammatory activity are preferably used.

[0218] As an illustration of the different fractions of hyaluronic acid, reference may be made to the document "Hyaluronan fragments: an information-rich System", R. Stern et al., European Journal of Cell Biology 58 (2006) 699-715, which reviews the listed biological activities of hyaluronic acid according to its molecular weight.

[0219] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the hyaluronic acid fractions suitable for the use covered by the present invention have a molecular weight between 50,000 and 5,000,000, in particular between 100,000 and 5,000,000, especially between 400,000 and 5,000,000 Da. In this case, the term used is high molecular weight hyaluronic acid.

[0220] Alternatively, the hyaluronic acid fractions that may also be suitable for the use covered by the present invention have a molecular weight between 50,000 and 400,000 Da. In this case, it is referred to as hyaluronic acid with an intermediate molecular weight.

[0221] Alternatively, the hyaluronic acid fractions suitable for the use covered by the present invention have a molecular weight of less than 50,000 Da. In this case, the term used is low molecular weight hyaluronic acid.

[0222] Finally, the term "hyaluronic acid and its derivatives" also includes hyaluronic acid esters, in particular those in which all or part of the carboxylic groups of the acid functions are esterified with oxyethylated alkyls or alcohols, containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular with a degree of substitution at the level of D-glucuronic acid of hyaluronic acid of between 0.5 and 50%.

[0223] Reference may be made in particular to methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, n-pentyl, benzyl and dodecyl esters of hyaluronic acid. These esters were notably described in D. Campoccia et al. “Semisynthetic resorbable materials from hyaluronan esterification”, Biomaterials 19 (1998) 2101-2127.

[0224] The hyaluronic acid derivative may be, for example, acetylated hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof.

[0225] The molecular weights indicated above are also valid for hyaluronic acid esters.

[0226] Hyaluronic acid may, in particular, be hyaluronic acid supplied by Hyactive under the trade name CPN (MW: 10 to 150 kDa), by Soliance under the trade name Cristalhyal (MW: 1.1 times 10⁶), by Bioland under the name Nutra HA (MW: 820,000 Da), by Bioland under the name Nutra AF (MW: 69,000 Da), by the company Bioland under the name Oligo HA (MW: 6,100 Da) or by the company Vam Farmacos Metica under the name D Factor (MW: 380 Da).

[0227] The quantity of the anionic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.005% by weight or more and, more preferably, 0.01% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0228] Furthermore, the quantity of the anionic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less and, more preferably, 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0229] The quantity of the anionic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.001% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 10% by weight and, more preferably, from 0.01% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. [Fatty acid]

[0230] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (f) at least one fatty acid. If two or more fatty acids are used, they may be identical or different.

[0231] The term “fatty acid” here refers to a carboxylic acid with a long aliphatic carbon chain.

[0232] The (f) fatty acid comprises at least 4 carbon atoms, preferably at least 6 carbon atoms and, more preferably, at least 8 carbon atoms. The (f) fatty acid may comprise up to 26 carbon atoms, preferably up to 24 carbon atoms and, more preferably, up to 22 carbon atoms. Preferably, the (f) fatty acid is selected from a C4-C26 fatty acid, more preferably a C6-C24 fatty acid, and even more preferably a C8-C22 fatty acid.

[0233] The (f) fatty acid may be selected from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids. Thus, the (f) fatty acid may be selected from saturated and unsaturated fatty acids, linear or branched in C4-C26, preferably in C6-C24, more preferably in C8-C22.

[0234] Monounsaturated fatty acids, linear or branched, or polyunsaturated fatty acids, linear or branched, may be used as unsaturated fatty acids. A carbon-carbon double bond or a carbon-carbon triple bond may be specified as the unsaturated fraction of unsaturated fatty acids, linear or branched.

[0235] Examples of saturated fatty acids include caprylic acid (C8), pelargonic acid (C9), capric acid (Cw), lauric acid (Ci2), myristic acid (Ci4), pentadecanoic acid (C15), palmitic acid (Ci6), heptadecanoic acid (C17), stearic acid (Ci8), isostearic acid (Ci8), nonadecanoic acid (Ci9), arachidic acid (C20), behenic acid (C22) and lignoceric acid (C24).

[0236] Examples of unsaturated fatty acids include myristoleic acid (C14), palmitoleic acid (Ci6), oleic acid (Ci8), linoleic acid (Ci8), linolenic acid (Ci8), elaidic acid (Ci8), arachidonic acid (C20), eicosenoic acid (C20), erucic acid (C22) and nervonic acid (C24).

[0237] It is preferable that the (f) fatty acid be chosen from among saturated or unsaturated fatty acids, linear or branched in C8-Ci8, and more preferably from the group consisting of caprylic acid, capric acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and mixtures thereof.

[0238] The (f) fatty acid may be in the form of a free acid or a salt thereof. Examples of fatty acid salts include inorganic salts such as a salt of an alkali metal (a sodium salt, a potassium salt, or the like) and an alkaline earth metal salt (a magnesium salt, a salt of salt, or the like); and organic salts such as an ammonium salt (a quaternary ammonium salt or the like) and an amine salt (a triethanolamine salt, a triethylamine salt, or the like). A single type of fatty acid salt or a combination of different types of fatty acid salts may be used. In addition, a combination of one or more fatty acids in free acid form and one or more fatty acids in salt form may be used, in which one or more types of salts may also be used.

[0239] The quantity of the fatty acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition. It may be even more preferable for the quantity of the fatty acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention to be greater than or equal to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0240] Furthermore, the quantity of the fatty acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition. It may be even more preferable for the quantity of the fatty acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention to be 4% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0241] The quantity of the fatty acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight. weight and more preferably, from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It may be even more preferable for the quantity of the fatty acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention to be from 1% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0242] (Organo-modified clay)

[0243] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (g) at least one organo-modified clay. If two or more organo-modified clays are used, they may be identical or different.

[0244] Organo-modified clay means clays treated with organic compounds, in particular selected from quaternary and tertiary amines. By exchanging the original interlayer cations for organocations (typically quaternary or tertiary alkylammonium ions), an organophilic surface is generated, comprising covalently linked organic fractions.

[0245] The (g) organo-modified clay may be present between the oil phase and the aqueous phase to stabilize the aqueous phase in the composition according to the present invention.

[0246] It may be preferable for the (g) organo-modified clay to be in the form of particles.

[0247] Organo-modified clays that may be mentioned include organo-modified bentonites, such as the product sold under the name Bentone 34 by Rheox, and organo-modified hectorites such as the products sold under the names Bentone 27 and Bentone 38 (disteardimonium hectorite) by Rheox, and the name MP250 (stearalconium bentonite) by BYK Additives & Instrumentais.

[0248] Examples include modified clays such as modified magnesium silicate (Rheox Bentone gel VS38), modified hectorites such as hectorite modified with C22 fatty acid ammonium chloride, for example hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride, for example the product sold under the name Bentone 38VCG by Elementis or the product sold under the name Bentone 38 CE by Rheox, or the product sold under the name Bentone Gel V55V by Elementis.

[0249] It is preferable that the (g) organo-modified clay be chosen from organo-modified bentonites, organo-modified hectorites, and mixtures thereof. Disteardimonium hectorite may be mentioned as an example of (g) organo-modified clay.

[0250] It is preferable that the (g) organo-modified clay has been treated with compounds chosen in particular from quaternary amines and tertiary amines.

[0251] The quantity of the (g) organo-modified clay(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% in weight or more and more preferably, 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0252] The quantity of the (g) organo-modified clay(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less and, more preferably, 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0253] The quantity of the (g) organo-modified clay(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight and, more preferably, from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0254] (pH)

[0255] The pH of the composition according to the present invention can be from 3 to 9, preferably from 3.3 to 8.5 and, more preferably, from 3.5 to 8.

[0256] At a pH of 3 to 9, the (a) cationic polymer or a complex of the (a) cationic polymer and the (b) non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values ​​or a salt thereof can be very stable.

[0257] The pH of the composition according to the present invention can be corrected by adding at least one alkali and / or at least one acid, other than (b) a non-polymer acid having two or more pKa values ​​or a salt thereof. The pH of the composition according to the present invention can also be corrected by adding at least one buffering agent.

[0258] (Alkaline agent)

[0259] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one alkali agent. Two or more alkali agents may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of alkali agent or a combination of different types of alkali agents may be used.

[0260] The alkali agent may be an inorganic alkali agent. It is possible that the inorganic alkali agent may be chosen from the group consisting of the following: ammonia, alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline earth metal hydroxides, alkali metal phosphates and monohydrogen phosphates such as sodium phosphate or sodium monohydrogen phosphate.

[0261] Examples of inorganic alkali metal hydroxides include sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide. Examples of alkaline earth metal hydroxides include calcium hydroxide and magnesium hydroxide. Sodium hydroxide is preferable as an inorganic alkali metal.

[0262] The alkali agent may be an organic alkali agent. It is preferable that the organic alkali agent be chosen from the group consisting of monoamines and their derivatives; diamines and their derivatives; polyamines and their derivatives; basic amino acids and their derivatives; oligomers of basic amino acids and their derivatives; polymers of basic amino acids and their derivatives; urea and its derivatives; and guanidine and its derivatives.

[0263] Examples of organic alkali-aggregate agents include alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and tri-ethanolamine, and isopropanolamine; urea, guanidine and its derivatives; basic amino acids such as ornithine; and diamines such as those described in the structure below: R1 R3 NRN R2 R4

[0264] in which R denotes an alkylene such as propylene optionally substituted by a hydroxyl or a Ci-C4 alkyl radical, and Rb R2, R3 and R4 independently denote a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical or a Ci-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical, an example of which may be 1,3-propanediamine and its derivatives.

[0265] The alkali agent(s) may be used in an amount from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.02% to 10% by weight and more preferably from 0.03% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, depending on their solubility.

[0266] (Acid)

[0267] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one acid. Two or more acids may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of acid or a combination of different types of acids may be used.

[0268] As an acid, mention may be made of all inorganic or organic acids, preferably inorganic, that are commonly used in cosmetic products. A monovalent acid and / or a polyvalent acid may be used. A monovalent acid such as citric acid, lactic acid, sulfuric acid, phosphoric acid and hydrochloric acid (HCl) may be used. Lactic acid may be preferred.

[0269] The acid(s) may be used in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.02% to 10% by weight and more preferably from 0.03% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, depending on their solubility.

[0270] (Optional ingredient)

[0271] The composition according to the present invention may comprise, in addition to the aforementioned ingredients, one or more optional ingredients typically used in cosmetics, in particular, organic or inorganic UV filters; surfactants / emulsifiers, hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners, derived, by for example, synthetic polymers other than (a) cationic polymer; volatile or non-volatile organic solvents, such as ethanol; amphoteric polymers; non-ionic polymers such as beta-glucan; silicones and silicone derivatives other than (e) oil; natural extracts derived from animals or plants other than (a) cationic polymer or (d) oil; waxes; and the like, within a range that does not alter the effects of the present invention.

[0272] The composition according to the present invention may include the above optional additive(s) in an amount of 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 20% by weight and more preferably 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0273] The composition according to the present invention may include a very limited amount of synthetic surfactant(s) / emulsifier(s) and / or thickener(s) and / or organic solvent(s) in order to be environmentally friendly.

[0274] The amount of synthetic surfactant(s) / emulsifier(s) and / or thickener(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or less, preferably 0.1% by weight or less, and more preferably 0.01% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition. It is particularly preferable that the composition according to the present invention not contain any synthetic surfactant / emulsifier or thickener or organic solvent. [Preparation]

[0275] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential ingredient(s) as explained above, and the optional ingredient(s), if necessary, as explained above.

[0276] The method and means for mixing the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention.

[0277] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by simple or easy mixing with a conventional mixing means such as a stirrer or homogenizer. Furthermore, heating may not be necessary. Therefore, the process of preparing the composition according to the present invention can be environmentally friendly. [Cosmetic application]

[0278] The composition according to the present invention can be used as a cosmetic composition. Thus, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be intended to be applied to a keratinous substance. By keratinous substance, we mean here a material containing keratin as its principal constituent and, For example, the skin, scalp, lips, hair, and the like. Therefore, it is preferable that the cosmetic composition according to the present invention be used for a cosmetic process for keratinous substances, particularly skin.

[0279] Thus, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be a cosmetic composition for the skin, preferably a cosmetic skin care composition or a skin makeup composition, and more preferably, a cosmetic skin care composition. [Shape]

[0280] The composition according to the present invention comprises a plurality of aqueous phases and an oily phase, where the aqueous phases are dispersed in the oily phase. Thus, the aqueous phase can function as a dispersed or discontinuous phase, and the oily phase can function as a continuous phase.

[0281] The aqueous phase comprises (a) the cationic polymer(s), (b) the non-polymer acid(s) having at least two pKa values ​​or salt(s) thereof, and (c) water. If the composition according to the present invention comprises (e) the anionic polymer(s), the aqueous phase may comprise (e) the anionic polymer(s).

[0282] The oily phase comprises (d) oil. If the composition according to the present invention comprises (f) fatty acid and / or (g) organo-modified clay, the oily phase may comprise (f) fatty acid and / or (g) organo-modified clay.

[0283] The quantity of aqueous phases in the composition according to the present invention can be from 30% to 70% by weight, preferably from 35% to 65% by weight, and more preferably from 40% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0284] The quantity of the fat phase in the composition according to the present invention can be from 30% to 70% by weight, preferably from 35% to 65% by weight, and more preferably from 40% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. [ Movie ]

[0285] The composition according to the present invention can be used to easily prepare a film.

[0286] Thus, the present invention may also relate to a process for preparing a film, preferably a cosmetic film, optionally with a thickness of 0.5 µm or more, more preferably of 1.0 µm or more, and even more preferably of 1.5 µm or more, comprising:

[0287] the application to a substrate, preferably a keratinous substance, more preferably the skin, of the composition according to the present invention; and

[0288] the drying of the composition.

[0289] The upper limit of the thickness of the film according to the present invention is not limited. Thus, for example, the thickness of the film according to the present invention can be 1 mm or less, preferably 500 µm or less, more preferably 300 µm or less, and even more preferably 100 µm or less.

[0290] Since the above process for preparing the film according to the present invention comprises the steps of applying the composition according to the present invention onto a substrate, preferably a keratinous substance, and more preferably, skin, and drying the composition, the process according to the present invention does not require deposition with a turntable or spraying, and it is therefore even possible to easily prepare a relatively thick film. Thus, the process of preparing a film according to the present invention can produce a relatively thick film without any special equipment such as deposition turntables and spraying machines.

[0291] Even though the film according to the present invention is relatively thick, it is still thin and may be transparent, and therefore may not be easily perceptible. Thus, the film according to the present invention can preferably be used as a cosmetic film.

[0292] If the substrate is not a keratinous substance such as skin, the composition according to the present invention can be applied to a substrate made of any material other than keratin. The materials of the non-keratinous substrate are not limited. Two or more materials can be used in combination. Thus, a single type of material or a combination of different types of materials can be used. In all cases, it is preferable that the substrate be flexible or elastic.

[0293] If the substrate is not a keratinous substance, it is preferable that the substrate be water-soluble, since it is possible to leave the film according to the present invention by washing the substrate with water. Examples of water-soluble materials include polyacids (methacrylic acids), polyethylene glycols, polyacrylamides, polyvinyl alcohol (PVA), starch, cellulose acetates, and the like. PVA is preferable.

[0294] If the non-keratinous substrate is in the form of a sheet, it may have a thickness greater than that of the film according to the present invention, in order to facilitate the handling of the film attached to the substrate sheet. The thickness of the non-keratinous substrate sheet is not limited, but may be from 1 µm to 5 mm, preferably from 10 µm to 1 mm, and more preferably from 50 to 500 µm.

[0295] It is preferable that the film according to the present invention be able to be released from the non-keratinous substrate. The method of release is not limited. Therefore, the film according to the present invention can be peeled off the non-keratinous substrate, or released by dissolving the substrate sheet in a solvent such as water.

[0296] The present invention may also relate to:

[0297] (1) A film, preferably cosmetic, preferably of a thickness of greater than 0.5 qm, more preferably greater than 1.0 qm, and even more preferably greater than 1.5 qm, prepared by a process comprising:

[0298] the application to a substrate, preferably a keratinous substance, and more preferably to the skin, of the composition according to the present invention; and

[0299] drying of the composition,

[0300] and

[0301] (2) A film, preferably a cosmetic film, optionally of a thickness preferably greater than 0.5 qm, more preferably greater than 1.0 qm, even more preferably greater than 1.5 qm, comprising:

[0302] (a) at least one cationic polymer selected from the group consisting of chitosans, polylysines and mixtures thereof, preferably from the chitosans;

[0303] (b) at least one non-polymeric acid having two or more than two pKa values or a salt of it; and

[0304] (d) at least one oil.

[0305] The film may also include (e) at least one anionic polymer and / or (f) at least one fatty acid and / or (g) at least one organo-modified clay.

[0306] The above explanation concerning (a) cationic polymer, (b) non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values ​​or a salt thereof, and (d) oil, as well as optional ingredients such as (e) anionic polymer, (f) fatty acid and (g) organo-modified clay, can be applied to those of films (1) and (2) above.

[0307] The film thus obtained can be self-supporting. The term “self-supporting” here means that the film can be in the form of a sheet and can be handled as an independent sheet without the assistance of a substrate or support. Thus, the term “self-supporting” can have the same meaning as “self-supporting”.

[0308] It is preferable that the film according to the present invention be hydrophobic.

[0309] In this descriptive document, the term “hydrophobic” means that the solubility The film's water content in water (preferably with a volume of 1 liter) at 20-40 °C, preferably 25-40 °C, and more preferably 30-40 °C, is less than 10% by weight, preferably less than 5% by weight, more preferably less than 1% by weight, and even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the film. It is most preferable that the film not be soluble in water.

[0310] If the film according to the present invention is hydrophobic, the film may have water-resistant properties and, consequently, it may remain on a keratinous substance such as skin, even if the surface of the keratinous substance is wet due to, for example, perspiration and rain. Thus, when the film according to the present invention offers a cosmetic effect, the cosmetic effect can last a long time.

[0311] On the other hand, the film according to the present invention can be easily removed from a keratinous substance such as skin under alkaline conditions such as a pH of 8 to 12, preferably 9 to 11. Therefore, the film according to the present invention is difficult to remove with water, while it can be easily removed with a soap that can provide such alkaline conditions.

[0312] The film according to the present invention may comprise at least one layer of biocompatible and / or biodegradable polymer. Two or more biocompatible and / or biodegradable polymers may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of biocompatible and / or biodegradable polymer or a combination of different types of biocompatible and / or biodegradable polymers may be used.

[0313] The term “biocompatible” polymer in this specification means that the polymer does not have excessive interaction between the polymer and the cells of the living body, including the skin, and that the polymer is not recognized by the living body as a foreign material.

[0314] The term "biodegradable" polymer in this specification means that the polymer can be degraded or broken down in a living organism due to, for example, the metabolism of the living organism itself or the metabolism of microorganisms that may be present in the living organism. Furthermore, the biodegradable polymer can be degraded by hydrolysis.

[0315] If the film according to the present invention comprises a biocompatible and / or biodegradable polymer, it may be less irritating or non-irritating to the skin, and / or it may not contaminate the environment.

[0316] In fact, the film according to the present invention may include (a) at least one cationic polymer selected from chitosans and / or polylysines, both of which are biodegradable polymers. Consequently, the film according to the present invention can be environmentally friendly.

[0317] Furthermore, due to the use of a biocompatible and / or biodegradable polymer, the cosmetic sheet according to the present invention can adhere well to the skin.

[0318] The film according to the present invention can be used for cosmetic treatments of a keratinous substance, preferably the skin, particularly the face. The film according to the present invention can take any shape. For example, it can be used as a full mask or as a patch for a part of the face such as the cheek, nose, and around the eyes. [Cosmetic process and use]

[0319] The present invention also relates to:

[0320] a cosmetic process for a keratinous substance such as skin, comprising: applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratinous substance; and drying the composition to form a cosmetic film on the keratinous substance; or

[0321] a use of the composition according to the present invention for the preparation of a cosmetic film on a keratinous substance such as skin.

[0322] The cosmetic process here refers to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of the surface of a keratinous substance such as the skin.

[0323] In both the above process and use, the above cosmetic film is resistant to water of a pH less than or equal to 7, and can be removed with water of a pH greater than 7, preferably 8 or more and preferably 9 or more.

[0324] In other words, the above film can be water-resistant under neutral or acidic conditions such as a pH of 7 or less, preferably within a range of 6 or more and 7 or less, and more preferably within a range of 5 or more and 7 or less, while the above cosmetic film can be removed under alkaline conditions such as a pH greater than 7, preferably 8 or more, and more preferably 9 or more. The upper limit of pH is preferably 13, more preferably 12, and even more preferably 11.

[0325] Consequently, the above-mentioned cosmetic film can be water-resistant and can therefore remain on a keratinous substance such as skin even if the surface of the keratinous substance is wet due to, for example, perspiration and rain. On the other hand, the above-mentioned cosmetic film can be easily removed from a keratinous substance such as skin under alkaline conditions. Therefore, the film according to the present invention is difficult to remove with water, whereas it can be easily removed with a soap that can provide alkaline conditions.

[0326] If the above cosmetic film includes a UV filter which may be present in the composition according to the present invention, the above cosmetic film can protect a keratinous substance such as skin from UV rays, thus limiting skin darkening, improving color and evenness of complexion, and / or treating skin aging.

[0327] In addition, the above cosmetic film may have cosmetic effects such as sebum capture, mattifying the appearance of a keratin substrate such as skin, absorbing or neutralizing an unpleasant odor, and / or protecting the keratinous substance from, for example, dirt or pollutants, even if the cosmetic film does not contain any active cosmetic ingredients.

[0328] Furthermore, the above cosmetic film can immediately change or alter the appearance of the skin by modifying the reflection of light on the skin and other factors, even if the cosmetic film does not contain any active cosmetic ingredients. It is therefore possible The cosmetic film described above conceals skin imperfections such as pores or wrinkles. Furthermore, it can instantly alter the skin's feel by changing its surface texture and similar properties. Additionally, the cosmetic film can provide immediate protection by covering the skin's surface and acting as a barrier against environmental stressors such as pollutants, contaminants, and other aggressors.

[0329] The above cosmetic effects can be adjusted or controlled by changing the chemical composition, thickness and / or surface roughness of the above cosmetic film.

[0330] If the above cosmetic film includes at least one cosmetic active ingredient other than (d) oil, the cosmetic film may have cosmetic effects provided by the additional cosmetic active ingredient(s). For example, if the cosmetic film contains at least one cosmetic active ingredient selected from anti-aging agents, sebum-regulating agents, deodorizing agents, antiperspirant agents, whitening agents, and a mixture thereof, the cosmetic film may treat skin aging, absorb sebum from the skin, control perspiration on the skin, and / or whiten the skin.

[0331] It is also possible to apply a cosmetic makeup composition to the cosmetic film or sheet according to the present invention after its application to the skin.

[0332] The present invention may also relate to a use of

[0333] (a) at least one cationic polymer selected from the group consisting of chitosans, polylysines and mixtures thereof, preferably from chitosans, and

[0334] (b) at least one non-polymeric acid having two or more than two pKa values or a salt of it,

[0335] in a composition comprising:

[0336] a plurality of aqueous phases comprising:

[0337] (c) water,

[0338] and

[0339] a fatty phase comprising:

[0340] (d) at least one oil,

[0341] in which

[0342] the aqueous phases are dispersed in the oily phase,

[0343] in order to provide good hydration to a keratinous substance such as skin.

[0344] The use according to the present invention can also provide a keratinous substance such as skin with an anti-grease and / or anti-color transfer and / or anti-adhesive character.

[0345] The composition may also include (e) at least one anionic polymer and / or (f) at least one fatty acid and / or (g) at least one organo-modified clay. If the composition includes (f) at least one fatty acid, the color-transfer resistance may be further enhanced.

[0346] The above explanations concerning (a) cationic polymer, (b) non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values ​​or a salt thereof, (c) water and (d) oil, as well as optional ingredients such as (e) anionic polymer, (f) fatty acid and (g) organo-modified clay can be applied to those of the above use. EXAMPLES

[0347] The present invention will be described in more detail with the aid of examples. However, these examples shall not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention. Examples 1-6 and comparative examples 1-5 [Preparations]

[0348] Each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 6 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5 was prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Tables 1 to 4. The numerical values ​​of the quantities of ingredients shown in Tables 1 to 4 are all based on "% by weight" of raw materials.

[0349] The details of the preparation are as follows.

[0350] First, all the ingredients of the oil phase were thoroughly mixed. On the other hand, the aqueous phase was prepared separately by the following method: a polyanion (sodium hyaluronate and, if necessary, sodium carboxymethylcellulose) was first dissolved in water. Then, a polycation (polylysine or chitosan) and a crosslinking agent (phytic acid) were added to create a polyion complex gel particle (PGP). After the addition of all the other ingredients for the aqueous phase, the aqueous phase was added to the oil phase and emulsified to form a water-in-oil (W / O) composition. As shown in Example 3-5 and Comparative Examples 2-3, ethanol was added after emulsification.

[0351] [Tables 1] Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. Co mp. 1 FP PEG-9 POLYDIMETHYLSILOXYETHYL DI METHICONE 3.5 3.5 3.5 SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE 0.5 0.5 0.5 CETYL ETHYLHEXANOATE 12 12 12 HOMOSALATE 3 3 3 DIMETHICONE qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 ISOHEXADECANE 7.5 7.5 7.5 OLEIC ACID - 1.7 - DEXTRIN PALMITATE 2 2 2 DIMETHICONE (and) CROSS-CUT DIMETHICONE / VINYL DIMETHICONE POLYMER 2 2 2 SURFACE-TREATED TITANIUM DIOXIDE 5.5 5.5 5.5 AP WATER 39.68 39.68 39.68 MAGNESIUM SULFATE - - 0.7 GLYCERIN 6 6 6 PHENOXYETHANOL 0.7 0.7 0.7 BUTYLENE GLYCOL 9 9 9 CELLULOSE GUM - - 0.5 SODIUM HYALURONATE 0.53 0.53 0.53 POLYLYSIN (25% by weight aqueous solution) 1.06 1.06 - PHYTIC ACID (50% by weight aqueous solution) 0.27 0.27 - HCC value (before application) (a) 18 16 16 HCC value (4 hours after application) (b) 46 41 37 Hydration ((b)-(a)) Good Good Control Anti-greasy properties Good Good Control Mask transfer resistance Good Very good Control

[0352] FP: Fatty phase

[0353] AP: Aqueous phase

[0354] [Tables2] Ex. 3 Ex. 4 Ex. Com p. 2 FP DIISOPROPYL SEBACATE 6.25 6.25 6.25 DIMETHICONE qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 ISODODECANE 10 10 10 PEG-10 DIMETHICONE 5 5 5 TOCOPHEROL 0.1 0.1 0.1 TRIMETHYLSILOXYSILICATE 5 5 5 DISTEARDIMONIUM HECTORITE 1 1 1 SURFACE-TREATED TITANIUM DIOXIDE 1 1 1 SURFACE-TREATED IRON OXIDES 0.1 0.1 0.1 SILICA 10.5 10.5 10.5 AP WATER 26 26.375 26 SODIUM HYALURONATE 0.25 0.25 - POLYLYSINE (25% wt. aqueous solution) 0.5 - - CHITOSAN - 0.125 - ACID PHYSICAL (50% aqueous solution by weight) 0.14 0.14 - GLYCERIN 11 11 11 PHENOXYETHANOL 0.5 0.5 0.5 ETHANOL 5 5 5 HCC value (before application) (a) 12.0+2.3 13.1+2.8 12.2+2.7 HCC value (4 hours after application) (b) 36.8+2.1 38.3+2.1 35.8+2.6 Hydration ((b)-(a)) Good Good Control

[0355] FP: Fatty phase

[0356] AP: Aqueous phase

[0357] [Tables3] Ex. 5 Ex. Comp. 3 FP DIISOPROPYL SEBACATE 2 2 DIMETHICONE qs 100 qs 100 ISODODECANE 10 10 PEG-10 DIMETHICONE 5 5 TOCOPHEROL 0.1 0.1 TRIMETHYLSILOXYSILICATE 5 5 DISTEARDIMONIUM HECTORITE 1 1 SURFACE-TREATED TITANIUM DIOXIDE 1 1 SURFACE-TREATED IRON OXIDES 0.1 0.1 SILICA 10 10 AP WATER 26 26 SODIUM HYALURONATE 0.06 0.06 SODIUM CARBOXYMETHYLCELLULOSE 0.19 0.19 POLYLYSINE (25% wt. aqueous solution) 0.5 - PHYTIC ACID (50% wt. aqueous solution) 0.14 - BUTYLENE GLYCOL 5 5 GLYCERIN 6 6 MAGNESIUM SULFATE 0.7 0.7 Phenoxyethanol 0.5 0.5 Ethanol 5 5 HCC value (before application) (a) 11.6+1.5 12.6+1.4 HCC value (4 hours after application) (b) 36.4+1.8 32.4+5.0 Hydration ((b)-(a)) Good Control

[0358] FP: Fatty phase

[0359] AP: Aqueous phase

[0360] [Tables4] Ex. 6 Ex. Com p.4 Ex. Com p. 5 FP DIISOPROPYL SEBACATE 2 2 2 DIMETHICONE qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 ISODODECAN 10 10 10 PEG-10 DIMETHICONE 5 5 5 TOCOPHEROL 0.1 0.1 0.1 TRIMETHYLSILOXYSILICATE 5 5 5 DISTEARDIMONIUM HECTORITE 1 1 1 SURFACE-TREATED TITANIUM DIOXIDE 1 1 1 SURFACE-TREATED IRON OXIDES 0.1 0.1 0.1 SILICA 10 10 10 AP WATER 22 22.64 22.89 SODIUM HYALURONATE 0.25 0.25 - POLYLYSINE (25% wt. aqueous solution) 0.5 - - PHYTIC ACID (50% wt. aqueous solution) 0.14 - - BUTYLENE GLYCOL 5 5 5 GLYCERIN 10 10 10 MAGNESIUM SULFATE 0.7 0.7 0.7 PHENOXYETHANOL 0.5 0.5 0.5 ETHANOL 5 5 5 HCC value (before application) (a) 11.5+3.0 9.5+2.7 - HCC value (4 hours after application) (b) 35.0+3.7 30.4+4.4 - Hydration ((b)-(a)) Good Control - Adhesiveness assessment Good Poor Control

[0361] FP: Fatty phase

[0362] AP: Aqueous phase [Reviews]

[0363] (Hydration)

[0364] Hydration was evaluated by comparing the hydration values ​​of the stratum corneum (HCC) of bare skin before application and after 4 hours of application of each of the compositions according to examples 1 to 6 and comparative examples 1 to 4.

[0365] As an assessment device, a GP SKIN device (GPOWER Inc.) was used to measure HCC.

[0366] First, the (a) HCC value of the panelists' forearms was measured. Next, 50 mg of each of the compositions according to examples 1 to 6 and examples Comparative samples 1 to 4 were applied to the forearm (5 x 5 cm). After 4 hours, the composition was wiped off and the HCC value of the forearm (b) was measured again. The difference between the HCC values ​​((b)-(a)) before application and 4 hours after application was calculated. The difference, which indicates hydration, was evaluated according to the following criteria.

[0367] Good: The difference is greater than that of the control

[0368] Bad: Identical to the control

[0369] Regarding the witness, please refer to Tables 1 to 4.

[0370] The measured values ​​of the HCC values ​​and the results of the above evaluation are shown in Tables 1 to 4.

[0371] (Anti-grease and anti-mask transfer properties)

[0372] 200 mg of the composition according to example 1 or 2 were applied to half of the The faces of two panelists were tested. 200 mg of the composition from comparative example 1 was also applied, as a control, to the other half of each panelist's face. Then, a standard foundation was applied, followed by a non-woven face mask.

[0373] After 8 hours, the oiliness of the skin was visually assessed by checking the level of radiance of the facial skin by the experts. Mask transfer was also visually assessed by the transfer of color to the mask.

[0374] Very good: Much less bold character / mask transfer than the control

[0375] Good: Less bold character / mask transfer than the control

[0376] Poor: Identical to the control

[0377] The results are presented on the lines "Anti-grease character" and "Anti-mask transfer" in Table 1.

[0378] (Evaluation of adhesiveness)

[0379] Each of the compositions according to Example 6, Comparative Example 4, or Comparative Example 5 was applied to the skin of 3 panelists. The composition according to Comparative Example 5 was used as a control. The adhesion of the applied skin was evaluated by the 3 panelists according to the following criteria.

[0380] Good: Less sticky than the control

[0381] Bad: Identical to the control

[0382] Very bad: Worse than the control

[0383] The results are shown in Table 4.

[0384] (Summary)

[0385] According to Table 1, a comparison of Example 1 with Comparative Example 1 shows that the former exhibited better hydration, anti-greasy properties, and mask transfer resistance due to its inclusion of the polycation, polyanion, and the crosslinking, than the last one. In addition, by adding a fatty acid (oleic acid) (see Example 2), the anti-transfer property of the mask has been reinforced.

[0386] According to Table 2, it can be seen by comparing Example 3 or 4 with Comparative Example 2 that the former showed better hydration due to the inclusion of the polycation, polyanion, and crosslinking agent, than the latter. When chitosan was used instead of polylysine as the polycation (see Example 4), hydration was further enhanced.

[0387] According to Table 3, it can be found by comparing Example 5 with Comparative Example 3 that the former presented better hydration by including the polycation (polylysine) and the crosslinker (phytic acid), in addition to the polyanions (sodium hyaluronate and sodium CMC), than the latter comprising only the polyanions.

[0388] According to Table 4, it can be found by comparing Example 6 with Comparative Example 4 that the former presented better hydration by including the polycation (polylysine) and the crosslinker (phytic acid), in addition to the polyanion (sodium hyaluronate), than the latter including only the polyanion.

[0389] Furthermore, by comparing comparative example 4 with comparative example 5 in Table 4, it can be seen that the adhesion was worsened by the presence of only the polyanion (sodium hyaluronate). However, by adding the polycation and the crosslinking agent (see Example 6), the adhesion was reduced. It can be deduced that the adhesion resulting primarily from glycerin was compensated for by the presence of a glyceryl gel network consisting of the polycation, the crosslinking agent, the polyanion, and glycerin. However, the polyanion alone cannot form a glyceryl gel network, which actually enhances the adhesion.

Claims

Demands

1. A composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cosmetic composition for a keratinous substance such as skin, comprising an aqueous phase comprising: (a) at least one cationic polymer; (b) at least one non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values ​​or a salt thereof; (c) water, and an oily phase comprising: (d) at least one oil, (g) at least one organically modified clay mineral, wherein the aqueous phase is dispersed in the oily phase, and the (a) cationic polymer is selected from the group consisting of chitosans, polylysines and mixtures thereof, preferably from chitosans.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the amount of the (a) cationic polymer(s) can be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight and, more preferably, from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

3. Composition according to any one of claims 1 or 2, wherein the (b) non-polymer acid having two or more pKa values ​​or a salt thereof is an organic acid or a salt thereof, preferably a hydrophilic or water-soluble organic acid or a salt thereof, and more preferably phytic acid or a salt thereof.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the amount of (b) non-polymer acid(s) having two or more of two pKa values ​​or salt(s) thereof in the composition ranges from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.003% to 5% by weight and, more preferably, from 0.005% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the amount of (c) water in the composition ranges from 10% to 50% by weight, preferably from 15% to 45% by weight, and more preferably from 20% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the composition further comprises (e) at least one anionic polymer.

7. Composition according to claim 6, wherein (e) the anionic polymer is selected from the group consisting of polysaccharides such as alginic acid, hyaluronic acid and cellulose polymers, anionic (co)polyamino acids such as glutamic (co)polyacids, (meth)acrylic (co)polyacids, amic (co)polyacids, styrene (co)polysulfonate, vinyl (co)poly(sulfates), dextran sulfate, chondroitin sulfate, maleic (co)polyacids, fumaric polyacids, maleic acid (co)polymers and their salts.

8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the fat phase further comprises (f) at least one fatty acid, preferably selected from saturated and unsaturated fatty acids, linear or branched in C4-C26, more preferably in C6-C24, and even more preferably in C8-C22.

9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein (g) at least one organically modified clay mineral is organically modified hectorite and more preferably disteardimonium hectorite.

10. A cosmetic process for a keratinous substance such as skin, comprising: applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 to the keratinous substance; and drying the composition to form a cosmetic film on the keratinous substance.