COMPOSITION INCLUDING CHITOSAN AND SALICYLIC ACID OR DERIVATIVES THEREOF
A surfactant-free cosmetic composition using chitosan and salicylic acid derivatives stabilizes oil and water emulsions through ionic interaction, providing stability and environmental sustainability while reducing skin irritation.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- LOREAL SA
- Filing Date
- 2023-05-24
- Publication Date
- 2026-04-10
AI Technical Summary
Existing cosmetic compositions often require surfactants to stabilize emulsions, which can cause skin irritation and are not environmentally friendly.
A composition comprising chitosan, salicylic acid or its derivatives, and water, without surfactants, stabilized by ionic interaction between chitosan and salicylic acid, forming a polymeric surfactant that maintains oil and water stability.
The composition is stable, environmentally friendly, and reduces skin irritation, allowing for a high oil content without phase separation, suitable for long-term storage and application on keratinous substances.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: COMPOSITION CONTAINING CHITOSAN AND SALICYLIC ACID OR DERIVATIVES THEREOF technical field
[0001] The present invention relates to a composition including chitosan, and salicylic acid or one or more derivatives thereof, and a cosmetic process using the composition. STATE OF THE ART
[0002] The formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, which are designed and developed taking environmental issues into account, is becoming a major objective in an effort to meet global challenges.
[0003] It is therefore essential to propose more sustainable compositions, preparation processes and ingredients to address these environmental concerns.
[0004] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or materials with a good naturalness index and / or materials of natural origin and, more particularly, materials of plant origin while reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin.
[0005] As is widely known, certain cosmetic compositions and all other compositions are present in an emulsion form, including but not limited to W / O, O / W, W / O / W, and O / W / O. In most cases, emulsifiers or surfactants are essential to stabilize the emulsion form. However, some surfactants may have potential problems, such as causing irritation to the skin. DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION
[0006] There is a need for a stable composition which includes oil and water reducing or eliminating the need for surfactants, while including one or more environmentally friendly ingredients.
[0007] Thus, a first objective of the present invention is to propose a stable composition which includes oil and water, even if the composition does not include a surfactant or a small amount of surfactant(s).
[0008] Furthermore, a second objective of the present invention is to propose a composition which can include at least one environmentally friendly ingredient.
[0009] The above objectives of the present invention can be achieved by a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably, a cosmetic composition for a keratinous substance such as skin, comprising: a. at least one cationic polymer chosen from among the chitosans; b. at least one compound selected from salicylic acid and its derivatives; c. of water; and d. of oil,
[0010] in which
[0011] the composition does not include a surfactant or includes at least one surfactant in an amount less than or equal to 1% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 0.1% by weight and, more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0012] The (a) cationic polymer can be selected from chitosans with a molecular weight greater than 20,000.
[0013] The quantity of the (a) cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight and, more preferably, from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0014] The salicylic acid derivative can be chosen from the compounds represented by formula (I):
[0015] in which
[0016] Ri represents hydrogen or a saturated, linear, branched or cyclized aliphatic hydrocarbon group, or an alkoxy, ester or ketoxy group, or an unsaturated group having at least one conjugated or non-conjugated double bond, where these groups may contain from 1 to 22 carbon atoms and optionally substituted by at least one substituent selected from halogen atoms, trifluoromethyl groups, hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified by an acid comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
[0017] R2 is a hydroxyl group or an ester group of formula (II): -oc-r4 (II)
[0018] where
[0019] R4 represents a saturated aliphatic hydrocarbon group or an alkenyl group comprising from 1 to 18 carbon atoms; and
[0020] R 3 represents hydrogen or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched aliphatic hydrocarbon group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally containing one or more substituents as defined above.
[0021] The quantity of the (b) compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight and, more preferably, from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0022] The quantity of (c) water in the composition according to the present invention can be from 50% to 99% by weight, preferably from 60% to 97% by weight and more preferably from 70% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0023] The (d) oil may be chosen from vegetable oils, synthetic ester oils and mixtures thereof, and preferably from vegetable oils.
[0024] The quantity of the oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 3% to 45% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0025] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (e) at least one monovalent non-polymer acid or a salt thereof, preferably a monovalent non-polymer organic acid or a salt thereof, more preferably a monovalent carboxylic acid or a salt thereof, and even more preferably a lactic acid or a salt thereof.
[0026] The quantity of the non-polymer acid(s) or salt(s) thereof in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0027] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (f) at least one fatty acid.
[0028] The (f) fatty acid can be chosen from saturated and unsaturated fatty acids, linear or branched in C4-C26, preferably in C6-C24, more preferably in C8-22.
[0029] The quantity of the (f) fatty acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0030] The pH of the composition according to the present invention can be from 3 to 8, preferably from 3 to 7.5, and more preferably from 3 to 7.
[0031] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for a keratinous substance such as skin, comprising
[0032] the application to the keratinous substance of the composition according to the present invention; and
[0033] drying the composition to form a cosmetic film on the keratinous substance. Best embodiment of the invention
[0034] After careful research, the inventors discovered that it is possible to propose a stable composition which includes oil and water, even if the composition does not include a surfactant or a small amount of surfactant(s), and can include at least one environmentally friendly ingredient.
[0035] Thus, the composition according to the present invention comprises:
[0036] (a) at least one cationic polymer selected from chitosans;
[0037] (b) at least one compound selected from salicylic acid and its derivatives;
[0038] (c) water; and
[0039] (d) of the oil,
[0040] in which
[0041] the composition does not include a surfactant or includes at least one surfactant in an amount less than or equal to 1% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 0.1% by weight and, more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0042] The composition according to the present invention includes oil and water, but is stable, although the composition does not include a surfactant or a small amount of surfactant(s).
[0043] The (a) cationic polymer selected from chitosans can form a complex with the (b) compound selected from salicylic acid and its derivatives, by the ionic interaction between the amino groups of the (a) cationic polymer with the carboxy groups of the (b) compound.
[0044] The above ionic interaction can enhance the affinity between the (a) cationic polymer and the (d) oil. Thus, the above complex can effectively exist at the interface between the (d) oil and (c) water, and can behave as a polymeric surfactant. Therefore, the distribution of the (d) oil in (c) water or (c) water in the (d) oil can be stable.
[0045] Since chitosans can be obtained from natural resources, (a) the cationic polymer is an environmentally friendly ingredient. Thus, the composition according to the present invention may include an environmentally friendly ingredient.
[0046] Furthermore, ingredients (b) to (d), as well as ingredients (e) and (f), can be derived from renewable materials such as plants and / or biodegradable materials. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention can be environmentally friendly.
[0047] Since the composition according to the present invention does not include any surfactant or very little surfactant(s), the composition according to the present invention may be less irritating.
[0048] The composition according to the present invention may include an aqueous phase comprising (c) water.
[0049] The composition according to the present invention may include fatty phases comprising (d) oil. If the composition according to the present invention comprises (f) at least one fatty acid, the (f) fatty acid may be present in the fatty phases.
[0050] The oily phases can be dispersed in the aqueous phase. In this case, the oily phases are discontinuous phases, while the aqueous phase is continuous. Thus, the composition according to the present invention can be in the form of oil in water (O / W).
[0051] The composition according to the present invention is stable even when it comprises a relatively high quantity of (d) oil. Thus, the composition according to the present invention can comprise a relatively large quantity of (d) oil.
[0052] The composition according to the present invention is stable for a long period. In other words, phase separation of the composition according to the present invention can be prevented for a long period.
[0053] Consequently, the composition according to the present invention can be stored for a long time.
[0054] The present invention will be explained in more detail below. [Composition]
[0055] (Cationic polymer)
[0056] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one cationic polymer.
[0057] There is no limit on the type of (a) cationic polymer. Two or more different types of cationic polymers may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of cationic polymer or a combination of different types of cationic polymers may be used.
[0058] A cationic polymer has a positive charge density. The charge density of (a) the cationic polymer can be between 0.01 meq / g and 20 meq / g, preferably between 0.05 and 15 meq / g and, more preferably, between 0.1 and 10 meq / g.
[0059] The (a) cationic polymer is selected from chitosans.
[0060] It is preferable that the chitosan has a molecular weight (Da) greater than 20,000, preferably greater than 50,000 and, more preferably, greater than 80,000. In other words, the (a) cationic polymer is a high molecular weight chitosan.
[0061] The molecular weight (Da) of chitosan may be less than 1,000,000, preferably less than 500,000 and, more preferably, less than 300,000.
[0062] Thus, the molecular weight (Da) of chitosan can be greater than 20,000 and less than 1,000,000, preferably greater than 50,000 and less than 500,000, and more preferably greater than 80,000 and less than 300,000.
[0063] Unless otherwise specified in the descriptions, "molecular weight" means average molecular weight. Molecular weight can be measured or determined by gel permeation chromatography, for example, in accordance with ASTM D5296-19.
[0064] Chitosan is very rare in nature. It is only reported in the exoskeletons of certain insects such as termite queens and in the cell walls of a particular class of fungi, the zygomycetes.
[0065] Chitosan can be obtained by deacetylation of chitin. Chitin is a polysaccharide composed of several N-acetyl-D-glucosamine motifs linked together by a [3 (1,4) type bond.
[0066] The ideal chemical structure of chitosan is a sequence of [>-D-glucosamine] monomers linked by a glycosidic bond (1—>4).
[0067] “Chitosan” according to the present invention means any copolymer formed of motifs Constituent N-acetyl-D-glucosamine and D-glucosamine, with a degree of acetylation of less than 90%, preferably less than 80%, preferably less than 70%, preferably less than 60%, preferably less than 50%. Chitosan consists of glucosamine sugar motifs (deacetylated motifs) and N-acetyl-D-glucosamine motifs (acetylated motifs) linked together by [3(1,4)] type bonds and is a poly(N-acetyl-D-glucosamine)-poly(D-glucosamine) polymer.
[0068] More preferably, the degree of acetylation of chitosan is less than or equal to 40%, preferably less than or equal to 35%, preferably less than or equal to 25%, preferably less than or equal to 15%, and preferably less than or equal to 10%.
[0069] The degree of acetylation is the percentage of acetylated motifs relative to the total number of motifs; it can be determined by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) or by titration with a strong base.
[0070] The chitosan of the present invention is preferably a polysaccharide prepared from a fungal source. In particular, it is extracted and purified from safe and abundant food sources or from biotechnological fungal sources such as Agaricus bisporus or Aspergillus niger.
[0071] The chitosan of the present invention is preferably derived from the mycelium of an Ascomycete fungus, in particular Aspergillus niger, and / or a Basidiomycete fungus, in particular Lentinula edodes (shiitake) and / or Agaricus bisporus. Preferably, the fungus is Aspergillus niger.
[0072] Chitosan may be of GMO (Genetically Modified Organisms) origin, but preferably of non-GMO origin.
[0073] The chitosan according to the present invention is native, that is to say, it is not modified. In particular, it contains no chemical modification.
[0074] One method for preparing chitosan is that described in WO03 / 068824.
[0075] Preferably, the chitosan used in the present invention is in powder form. It is marketed by Kitozyme under the name Kiosmetine or Kionutrime, for example Kiosmetine-CSH and Kiosmetine P.
[0076] The quantity of the (a) cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more and, more preferably, 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0077] The quantity of the (a) cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less and, more preferably, 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0078] The quantity of the (a) cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight and, more preferably, from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0079] (Salicylic acid and its derivatives)
[0080] The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one compound selected from salicylic acid and its derivatives. If two or more (b) compounds are used, they may be identical or different.
[0081] Salicylic acid is a compound represented by the following chemical formula: CU → OH A. >3 H q
[0082] Salicylic acid derivatives can be chosen from the compounds represented by the following formula (I) or a salt thereof:
[0083] in which:
[0084] Ri represents hydrogen or a saturated, linear, branched or cyclized aliphatic hydrocarbon group or an alkoxy, ester or ketoxy group, or an unsaturated group having at least one conjugated or non-conjugated double bond, where these groups may contain from 1 to 22 carbon atoms and may be substituted by at least one substituent selected from halogen atoms, trifluoromethyl groups and hydroxyl groups in a free form or esterified by an acid comprising from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms;
[0085] R2 represents a hydroxyl group or an ester of formula (II): -oc-r4 (II)
[0086] where
[0087] R4 represents a saturated aliphatic hydrocarbon group or an alkenyl group comprising from 1 to 18 carbon atoms; and
[0088] R3 represents hydrogen or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched aliphatic hydrocarbon group comprising from 2 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally containing one or more substituents such as those listed above.
[0089] As R3, alkyl and alkenyl radicals containing 2 to 30 carbon atoms are suitable and are optionally substituted.
[0090] The preferred substituent is a hydroxyl radical.
[0091] When R3 is hydrogen, salts of compounds of formula (I) can be used, in particular salts obtained by reaction with a base. Suitable bases include alkali metal hydroxides (sodium and potassium hydroxides), ammonium hydroxide, organic bases such as primary, secondary, tertiary, or cyclic organic amines, and amino acids. Specific examples of bases include glycine, taurine, alanine, valine, cysteine, trihydroxymethylaminomethane (TRISTA), and triethanolamine.
[0092] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the compositions are prepared using derivatives of formula (I) where Ri contains at least 4 carbon atoms. For example, Ri can be a saturated linear alkyl or alkoxy radical comprising from 4 to 11 carbon atoms.
[0093] Derivatives of formula (I) in which R2 is hydroxyl and R3 is hydrogen, include 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid (CTFA name: Capryloyl Salicylic Acid), 5-n-decanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-dodecanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-octylsalicylic acid, 5-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid, 5-tert-octylsalicylic acid, 5-butoxysalicylic acid, 5-ethoxysalicylic acid, 5-methoxysalicylic acid, 5-propoxysalicylic acid, 5-methylsalicylic acid, 5-ethylsalicylic acid and 5-propylsalicylic acid, optionally treated with a base.
[0094] Where Ri represents hydrogen and R2 a hydroxyl group, the derivative of formula (I) is a salicylic acid ester. Preferred compounds include esters of fatty alcohols such as dodecyl, hexadecyl, stearyl, cetyl, myristyl, linoleyl, octyl, oleyl, and tridecyl alcohols, or esters of butyric, propyl, and ethyl alcohols, or esters of polyols such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol, ethylene glycol, or glycerol, or mixtures of these esters. Specific examples include cetyl salicylate, dodecyl salicylate, and tridecyl salicylate.
[0095] The quantity of the (b) compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more and, more preferably, 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0096] The quantity of the (b) compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less and, more preferably, 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0097] The quantity of the (b) compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight and, more preferably, from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0098] (Water)
[0099] The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) water.
[0100] The (c) water may constitute an aqueous phase which may be a continuous phase in the composition according to the present invention.
[0101] The quantity of (c) water may be 50% by weight or more, preferably 60% by weight or more and more preferably 70% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0102] Furthermore, the quantity of (c) water may be 99% by weight or less, preferably 97% by weight or less and more preferably 95% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0103] The quantity of (c) water may be from 50% to 99% by weight, preferably from 60% to 97% by weight and more preferably from 70% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0104] (Oil)
[0105] The composition according to the present invention comprises (d) at least one oil. If two or more oils are used, they may be identical or different.
[0106] The (d) oil may constitute fatty phases which may be dispersed or discontinuous phases in the composition according to the present invention.
[0107] Here, "oil" means a fatty compound or oily substance that is in the form of a liquid or a paste (not a solid) at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). Oils commonly used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.
[0108] The (d) oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil or the like; a polar oil such as a vegetable or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.
[0109] The (d) oil may be selected from the group consisting of oils derived from biological resources such as oils of vegetable or animal origin; oils derived from non-biological resources such as synthetic oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils and fatty alcohols, derived from chemicals; and mixtures thereof.
[0110] Examples of vegetable oils include apricot oil, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil and mixtures thereof.
[0111] Examples of animal oils include squalene and squalane.
[0112] Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as than isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils and artificial triglycerides.
[0113] The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci-C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.
[0114] Preferably, for monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol and acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.
[0115] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, examples include ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.
[0116] Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols, and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C4-C26 non-sugar dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols, may also be used.
[0117] Examples include: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate.
[0118] As ester oils, esters and sugar diesters of C6-C30 fatty acids, and preferably C2-C22-H, can be used. It is recalled that the term "sugar" refers to hydrocarbon-based compounds bearing oxygen, containing several alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups, and comprising at least four carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.
[0119] Examples of suitable sugars that may be cited include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose and their derivatives, including alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.
[0120] Sugar esters of fatty acids may be selected in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of linear or branched fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated in C6-C30, and preferably in C12-C22* If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0121] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, polyesters and their mixtures.
[0122] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.
[0123] More particularly, monoesters and diesters are used, and in particular monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.
[0124] An example that can be cited is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.
[0125] Examples of preferred ester oils include, for instance, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyle propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, stearate isocetyl, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.
[0126] Examples of artificial triglycerides include, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate) and glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate / linolenate).
[0127] Hydrocarbon oils may be selected from: • Lower C6-Ci6 alkanes, linear or branched, possibly cyclic. Examples include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for example isohexadecane, isododecane, and isodecane; and • linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, hydrogenated polydecenes and polyisobutenes such as Parleam® and squalane.
[0128] Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils include, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, Vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane and decene / butene copolymer and mixtures thereof.
[0129] The term "fatty" in fatty alcohol means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols that have 4 or more carbon atoms, preferably 6 or more, and more preferably 12 or more carbon atoms, are encompassed within the scope of fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohols can be saturated or unsaturated. Fatty alcohols can be linear or branched.
[0130] The fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH in which R is selected from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R may be selected from alkyl groups in the form C2-C2O and alkenyl groups in the form C2-C2O. R may or may not be substituted by at least one hydroxyl group.
[0131] Examples of fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonylic alcohol, erucyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.
[0132] It is preferable that the fatty alcohol be a saturated fatty alcohol.
[0133] Thus, the fatty alcohol can be chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C6-C3o alcohols, preferably from saturated, linear or branched C6-C3o alcohols, and more preferably from saturated, linear or branched Ci2-C2o alcohols.
[0134] The term "saturated fatty alcohol" here refers to an alcohol having a long saturated aliphatic carbon chain. Preferably, the saturated fatty alcohol should be chosen from any saturated C6-C30 fatty alcohols, linear or branched. Among saturated C6-C30 fatty alcohols, linear or branched, saturated C2-C20 fatty alcohols, linear or branched, may be used preferentially. Any saturated C6-C20 fatty alcohols, linear or branched, may be used preferentially. Branched C6-C20 fatty alcohols may be used even more preferentially.
[0135] Examples of saturated fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, or a mixture thereof (e.g., cetearyl alcohol), as well as behenyl alcohol, may be used as saturated fatty alcohols.
[0136] According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohol used in the composition according to the present invention is preferably chosen from octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof.
[0137] It is preferable to use oils from biological resources such as oils of vegetable or animal origin, and more preferably vegetable oils.
[0138] Oils of vegetable or animal origin may include hydrocarbon oils.
[0139] Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils derived from plants include, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as dodecane, tetradecane, hexadecane, octadecane, squalane, hemisqualane, and the like.
[0140] It is preferable to choose the (d) oil from among vegetable oils, synthetic ester oils and mixtures thereof, and preferably from among vegetable oils.
[0141] In a preferred embodiment, the (d) oil may be surrounded by a plurality of (a) cationic polymers or by a complex of (a) cationic polymers and (b) a compound selected from salicylic acid and its derivatives, or the (d) oil may be present in the hollow of a capsule formed by the (a) cationic polymers or the above complex. In other words, the (d) oil may be coated by the (a) cationic polymers or the above complex, or a capsule formed by the (a) cationic polymers and the above complex includes (d) the oil in the hollow of the capsule.
[0142] The (d) oil that is surrounded by the (a) cationic polymers or the above complex, or present in the hollow of the capsule formed by the (a) cationic polymers or the above complex, cannot come into direct contact with a keratinous substance such as skin. Thus, even if the (d) oil has a sticky or greasy feel, the composition according to the present invention would not provide a sticky or greasy feeling in use.
[0143] The quantity of the (d) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 3% by weight or more, and more preferably 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0144] The quantity of the (d) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 50% by weight or less, preferably 45% by weight or less, and more preferably 40% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0145] The quantity of the oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 3% to 45% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0146] (Non-polymer monovalent acid or salt thereof)
[0147] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (e) at least one monovalent nonpolymer acid or a salt thereof. Two or more different types of monovalent nonpolymer acids or their salts may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of monovalent nonpolymer acid or a salt thereof, or a combination of different types of nonpolymer acids or salts thereof, may be used.
[0148] The term "non-polymer" here means that the acid is not obtained by polymerizing two or more monomers. Therefore, a non-polymer acid does not correspond to an acid obtained by polymerizing two or more monomers, such as acrylic polyacids.
[0149] The term "salt" herein means a salt formed by the addition of suitable base(s) to the monovalent non-polymer acid, which can be obtained from a reaction of the monovalent non-polymer acid with the base(s) according to processes known to those skilled in the art. Examples of salts include metal salts, for example, alkali metal salts such as Na and K, alkaline earth metal salts such as Mg and Ca, and ammonium salts.
[0150] Preferably the molecular weight of the (e) monovalent non-polymeric acid or salt thereof is less than or equal to 1000, preferably less than or equal to 500 and, more preferably, less than or equal to 100.
[0151] The (e) monovalent nonpolymeric acid or a salt thereof may be included in the aqueous phase formed by (c) water. The (e) monovalent nonpolymeric acid or a salt thereof may promote the dissolution of the (a) cationic polymer in the aqueous phase.
[0152] The (e) monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof may be chosen from monovalent organic or inorganic acids and their salts, preferably monovalent organic acids and their salts, and more preferably monovalent carboxylic acids and their salts.
[0153] The monovalent non-polymeric acid has a single acid group which can be selected from the group consisting of a carboxylic group, a sulfuric group, a sulfonic group, a phosphoric group, a phosphonic group and a mixture thereof.
[0154] The monovalent non-polymer acid may be chosen from among the hydroxyl acids, and preferably the alpha-hydroxy acids. Examples of alpha-hydroxy acids include lactic acid and glycolic acid.
[0155] The monovalent non-polymer acid may be a monovalent non-polymer organic acid, preferably a monovalent carboxylic acid and, more preferably, lactic acid.
[0156] The amount of the monovalent non-polymer acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more and, more preferably, 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0157] The quantity of the monovalent non-polymer acid(s) or salt(s) thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0158] The quantity of the non-polymer acid(s) or salt(s) thereof in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0159] (Fatty Acid)
[0160] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (f) at least one fatty acid. If two or more fatty acids are used, they may be identical or different.
[0161] The term “fatty acid” here refers to a carboxylic acid with a long aliphatic carbon chain.
[0162] The (f) fatty acid comprises at least 4 carbon atoms, preferably at least 6 carbon atoms and, more preferably, at least 8 carbon atoms. The (f) fatty acid may comprise up to 26 carbon atoms, preferably up to 24 carbon atoms and, more preferably, up to 22 carbon atoms. Preferably, the (f) fatty acid is selected from a C4-C26 fatty acid, more preferably a C6-C24 fatty acid, and even more preferably a C8-C22 fatty acid.
[0163] The (f) fatty acid can be selected from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids. Thus, the (f) fatty acid can be selected from saturated and unsaturated fatty acids, linear or branched in C4-C26, preferably in C6-C24, more preferably in C8-C22.
[0164] Monounsaturated fatty acids, linear or branched, or polyunsaturated fatty acids, linear or branched, may be used as unsaturated fatty acids. A carbon-carbon double bond or a carbon-carbon triple bond may be specified as the unsaturated fraction of the unsaturated fatty acids, linear or branched.
[0165] Examples of saturated fatty acids include caprylic acid (C8), pelargonic acid (C9), capric acid (Cw), lauric acid (Ci2), myristic acid (Ci4), pentadecanoic acid (Ci5), palmitic acid (Ci6), heptadecanoic acid (Ci7), stearic acid (Ci8), isostearic acid (Ci8), nonadecanoic acid (Ci9), arachidic acid (C20), behenic acid (C22) and lignoceric acid (C24).
[0166] Examples of unsaturated fatty acids include myristoleic acid (Ci4), palmitoleic acid (Ci6), oleic acid (Ci8), linoleic acid (Ci8), linolenic acid (Ci8), elaidic acid (Ci8), arachidonic acid (C20), eicosenoic acid (C20), erucic acid (C22) and nervonic acid (C24).
[0167] It is preferable that the (f) fatty acid be chosen from among saturated or unsaturated fatty acids, linear or C8-Ci8 branched, and more preferably from the group consisting of caprylic acid, capric acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and mixtures thereof.
[0168] The (f) fatty acid may be in the form of a free acid or a salt thereof. Examples of fatty acid salts include inorganic salts such as a salt of an alkali metal (a sodium salt, a potassium salt, or the like) and an alkaline earth metal salt (a magnesium salt, a salt of salt, or the like); and organic salts such as an ammonium salt (a quaternary ammonium salt or the like) and an amine salt (a triethanolamine salt, a triethylamine salt, or the like). A single type of fatty acid salt or a combination of different types of fatty acid salts may be used. In addition, a combination of one or more fatty acids in free acid form and one or more fatty acids in salt form may be used, in which one or more types of salts may also be used.
[0169] The quantity of the (f) fatty acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0170] Furthermore, the quantity of the (f) fatty acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0171] The quantity of the (f) fatty acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0172] (pH)
[0173] The pH of the composition according to the present invention can be from 3 to 8, preferably from 3 to 7.5, and more preferably from 3 to 7.
[0174] At a pH of 3 to 8, the (a) cationic polymer or a complex of the (a) cationic polymer and the (b) compound selected from salicylic acid and its derivatives can be very stable. At a pH between 3 and 8, the composition according to the present invention can thus be very stable.
[0175] The pH of the composition according to the present invention can be corrected by adding at least one alkali and / or at least one acid, other than (b) a compound selected from salicylic acid and its derivatives or (e) a monovalent non-polymer acid or a salt thereof. The pH of the composition according to the present invention can also be corrected by adding at least one buffering agent.
[0176] (Alkaline agent)
[0177] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one alkali agent. Two or more alkali agents may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of alkali agent or a combination of different types of alkali agents may be used.
[0178] The alkali agent may be an inorganic alkali agent. It is possible that the inorganic alkali agent may be chosen from the group consisting of the following: ammonia, alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline earth metal hydroxides, alkali metal phosphates and monohydrogen phosphates such as sodium phosphate or sodium monohydrogen phosphate.
[0179] Examples of inorganic alkali metal hydroxides include sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide. Examples of alkaline earth metal hydroxides include calcium hydroxide and magnesium hydroxide. Sodium hydroxide is preferable as an inorganic alkali metal.
[0180] The alkali agent may be an organic alkali agent. Preferably, the organic alkali agent should be chosen from the group consisting of monoamines and their derivatives; diamines and their derivatives; polyamines and their derivatives; basic amino acids and their derivatives; oligomers of basic amino acids and their derivatives; polymers of basic amino acids and their derivatives; urea and its derivatives; and guanidine and its derivatives.
[0181] Examples of organic alkali-aggregates include alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and tri-ethanolamine, and isopropanolamine; urea, guanidine and its derivatives; basic amino acids such as omithine; and diamines such as those described in the structure below: R1 R3 NRN R2 Z R4
[0182] in which R denotes an alkylene such as propylene optionally substituted by a hydroxyl or a Ci-C4 alkyl radical, and Rb R2, R3 and R4 independently denote a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical or a CrC4 hydroxyalkyl radical, an example of which may be 1,3-propanediamine and its derivatives.
[0183] The alkali agent(s) may be used in an amount from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.02% to 10% by weight and more preferably from 0.03% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, depending on their solubility.
[0184] (Acid)
[0185] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one acid. Two or more acids may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of acid or a combination of different types of acids may be used.
[0186] As an acid, mention may be made of all inorganic or organic acids, preferably inorganic, that are commonly used in cosmetic products. A monovalent acid and / or a polyvalent acid may be used. A monovalent acid such as hydrochloric acid (HCl) may be used.
[0187] The acid(s) may be used in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.02% to 10% by weight and more preferably from 0.03% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, depending on their solubility.
[0188] (Optional ingredient)
[0189] The composition according to the present invention may include, in addition to the aforementioned ingredients, one or more optional ingredients typically used in cosmetics, in particular, hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners, derived, for example, from synthetic polymers other than (a) cationic polymer; volatile or non-volatile organic solvents; anionic polymers; amphoteric polymers; non-ionic polymers such as beta-glucan; silicones and silicone derivatives other than (d) oil; natural extracts derived from animals or plants other than (a) cationic polymer or (d) oil; waxes; and the like, within a range that does not alter the effects of the present invention.
[0190] The composition according to the present invention may include the optional ingredient(s) in an amount of 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 20% by weight, and more preferably 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0191] The composition according to the present invention does not comprise a surfactant, or comprises at least one surfactant in an amount of 1% by weight or less, preferably 0.1% by weight or less, and more preferably 0.01% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition. It is particularly preferable that the composition according to the present invention does not comprise a surfactant.
[0192] The amount of the organic thickener(s) and / or solvent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or less, preferably 0.1% by weight or less, and more preferably 0.01% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition. It is particularly preferable that the composition according to the present invention include neither synthetic thickener nor organic solvent. [Preparation]
[0193] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential ingredient(s) as explained above, and the optional ingredient(s), if necessary, as explained above.
[0194] The method and means for mixing the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention.
[0195] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by simple or easy mixing with a conventional mixing means such as a stirrer and homogenizer. Furthermore, heating may not be necessary. Therefore, the process of preparing the composition according to the present invention can be environmentally friendly. [Cosmetic application]
[0196] The composition according to the present invention can be used as a cosmetic composition. Thus, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be intended to be applied to a keratinous substance. By keratinous substance, we mean here a material containing keratin as its principal constituent and, by way of example, skin, scalp, lips, hair, and the like. Therefore, it is preferable that the cosmetic composition according to the present invention be used for a cosmetic process on the keratinous substance, in particular the skin.
[0197] Thus, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be a cosmetic composition for the skin, preferably a cosmetic skin care composition or a skin makeup composition, and more preferably, a cosmetic skin care composition. [Shape]
[0198] The composition according to the present invention may be present in any form.
[0199] For example, (d) oil can form fatty phases, (c) water can form a The aqueous phase and the oily phases can be dispersed within the aqueous phase. Thus, the aqueous phase can function as a continuous phase, and the oily phase can function as a dispersed phase. In other words, the composition according to the present invention can be in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) dispersion such as an O / W emulsion. If the composition according to the present invention is of the O / W type, it can provide a cooling sensation due to (c) the water that forms its external phase. [Film]
[0200] The composition according to the present invention can be used to easily prepare a film.
[0201] Thus, the present invention may also relate to a process for preparing a film, preferably a cosmetic film, optionally with a thickness of 0.5 pm or more, more preferably of 1.0 pm or more, and even more preferably of 1.5 pm or more, comprising:
[0202] the application on a substrate, preferably a keratinous substance, more preferably the skin, of the composition according to the present invention; and
[0203] the drying of the composition.
[0204] The upper limit of the thickness of the film according to the present invention is not limited. Thus, for example, the thickness of the film according to the present invention can be 1 mm or less, preferably 500 pm or less, more preferably 300 pm or less, and even more preferably 100 pm or less.
[0205] Since the above process for preparing the film according to the present invention comprises the steps of applying the composition according to the present invention onto a substrate, preferably a keratinous substance, and more preferably, skin, and drying the composition, the process according to the present invention does not require deposition with a turntable or spraying, and it is therefore even possible to easily prepare a relatively thick film. Thus, the process of preparing a film according to the present invention can produce a relatively thick film without any special equipment such as deposition turntables and spraying machines.
[0206] Even though the film according to the present invention is relatively thick, it is still thin and may be transparent, and therefore may not be easily perceptible. Thus, the film according to the present invention can preferably be used as a cosmetic film.
[0207] If the substrate is not a keratinous substance, it is preferable that the substrate be water-soluble, since it is possible to leave the film according to the present invention by washing the substrate with water. Examples of water-soluble materials include polyacids (methacrylic acids), polyethylene glycols, polyacrylamides, polyvinyl alcohol (PVA), starch, cellulose acetates, and the like. PVA is preferable.
[0208] If the non-keratinous substrate is in the form of a sheet, it may have a thickness greater than that of the film according to the present invention, in order to facilitate the handling of the film attached to the substrate sheet. The thickness of the non-keratinous substrate sheet is not limited, but may be from 1 µm to 5 mm, preferably from 10 µm to 1 mm, and more preferably from 50 to 500 µm.
[0209] It is preferable that the film according to the present invention be able to be released from the non-keratinous substrate. The method of release is not limited. Therefore, the film according to the present invention can be peeled off the non-keratinous substrate, or released by dissolving the substrate sheet in a solvent such as water.
[0210] The present invention may also relate to:
[0211] (1) A film, preferably a cosmetic film, preferably of a thickness of preferably greater than 0.5 qm, more preferably greater than 1.0 qm, and even more preferably greater than 1.5 qm, prepared by a process comprising:
[0212] the application to a substrate, preferably a keratinous substance, and more preferably to the skin, of the composition according to the present invention; and
[0213] drying of the composition,
[0214] and
[0215] (2) A film, preferably a cosmetic film, optionally of a thickness preferably greater than 0.5 qm, more preferably greater than 1.0 qm, even more preferably greater than 1.5 qm, comprising:
[0216] (a) at least one cationic polymer selected from chitosans, preferably of a molecular weight greater than 20,000;
[0217] (b) at least one compound selected from salicylic acid and its derivatives; and
[0218] (d) oil,
[0219] in which
[0220] The film does not contain a surfactant.
[0221] The film may also include (e) at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof and / or (f) at least one fatty acid.
[0222] The above explanations concerning the (a) cationic polymer, the (b) compound selected from salicylic acid and its derivatives, and the (d) oil, as well as optional ingredients such as the (e) monovalent nonpolymeric acid or a salt thereof, and the (f) fatty acid, can be applied to those of the films (1) and (2) above.
[0223] The film thus obtained can be self-supporting. The term “self-supporting” here means that the film can be in the form of a sheet and can be handled as an independent sheet without the assistance of a substrate or support. Thus, the term “self-supporting” can have the same meaning as “self-supporting”.
[0224] It is preferable that the film according to the present invention be hydrophobic.
[0225] In this descriptive document, the term “hydrophobic” means that the solubility The film's water content in water (preferably with a volume of 1 liter) at 20-40 °C, preferably 25-40 °C, and more preferably 30-40 °C, is less than 10% by weight, preferably less than 5% by weight, more preferably less than 1% by weight, and even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the film. It is most preferable that the film not be soluble in water.
[0226] If the film according to the present invention is hydrophobic, the film may have water-resistant properties and, consequently, it may remain on a keratinous substance such as skin, even if the surface of the keratinous substance is wet due to, for example, perspiration or rain. Thus, when the The film according to the present invention offers a cosmetic effect, the cosmetic effect can last a long time.
[0227] On the other hand, the film according to the present invention can be easily removed from a keratinous substance such as skin under alkaline conditions such as a pH of 8 to 12, preferably 9 to 11. Therefore, the film according to the present invention is difficult to remove with water, while it can be easily removed with a soap that can provide such alkaline conditions.
[0228] The film according to the present invention may comprise at least one layer of biocompatible and / or biodegradable polymer. Two or more biocompatible and / or biodegradable polymers may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of biocompatible and / or biodegradable polymer or a combination of different types of biocompatible and / or biodegradable polymers may be used.
[0229] The term “biocompatible” polymer in this specification means that the polymer does not have excessive interaction between the polymer and the cells of the living body, including the skin, and that the polymer is not recognized by the living body as a foreign material.
[0230] The term "biodegradable" polymer in this specification means that the polymer can be degraded or broken down in a living organism due, for example, to the metabolism of the living organism itself or to the metabolism of microorganisms that may be present in the living organism. Furthermore, the biodegradable polymer can be degraded by hydrolysis.
[0231] If the film according to the present invention includes a biocompatible and / or biodegradable polymer, for example, it may be less irritating or non-irritating to the scalp and / or it may not contaminate environments.
[0232] In fact, the film according to the present invention may include (a) at least one cationic polymer selected from chitosans which are biodegradable polymers.
[0233] Furthermore, due to the use of a biocompatible and / or biodegradable polymer, the cosmetic sheet according to the present invention can adhere well to the skin.
[0234] The film according to the present invention can be used for cosmetic treatments of a keratinous substance, preferably the skin, particularly the face. The film according to the present invention can take any shape. For example, it can be used as a full mask or as a patch for a part of the face such as the cheek, nose, and around the eyes. [Cosmetic process and use]
[0235] The present invention also relates to:
[0236] a cosmetic process for a keratinous substance such as skin, comprising: the application to the keratinous substance of the composition according to the present invention; and the drying of the composition to form a cosmetic film on the keratinous substance; or
[0237] a use of the composition according to the present invention for the preparation of a cosmetic film on a keratinous substance such as skin.
[0238] The cosmetic process here refers to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for the care and / or coating of the surface of a keratinous substance such as skin.
[0239] In addition, the above cosmetic film may have cosmetic effects such as sebum capture, mattifying the appearance of a keratin substrate such as skin, absorption or odor absorption, and / or protection of the keratinous substance against, for example, dirt or pollutants, even if the cosmetic film does not contain any cosmetic active ingredient.
[0240] Furthermore, the above cosmetic film can immediately change or alter the appearance of the skin by modifying the reflection of light on the skin and other factors, even if the cosmetic film does not contain any active cosmetic ingredients. It is therefore possible that the above cosmetic film may conceal skin defects such as pores or wrinkles. In addition, the above cosmetic film can immediately change or alter the feel of the skin by modifying the skin's surface roughness and similar properties. Furthermore, the above cosmetic film can immediately protect the skin by covering its surface and acting as a barrier against environmental stressors such as pollutants, contaminants, and other substances.
[0241] The above cosmetic effects can be adjusted or controlled by changing the chemical composition, thickness and / or surface roughness of the above cosmetic film.
[0242] If the above cosmetic film contains at least one cosmetic active ingredient other than (b) the compound selected from salicylic acid and its derivatives and (d) oil, the cosmetic film may have cosmetic effects provided by the additional cosmetic active ingredient(s). For example, if the cosmetic film includes at least one cosmetic active ingredient selected from anti-aging agents, sebum-controlling agents, deodorant agents, antiperspirant agents, whitening agents, and mixtures thereof, the cosmetic film may treat skin aging, absorb sebum from the skin, control odors on the skin, control perspiration on the skin, and / or whiten the skin.
[0243] It is also possible to apply a cosmetic makeup composition to the cosmetic film or sheet according to the present invention after its application to the skin.
[0244] The present invention may also relate to the use of (b) at least one compound selected from salicylic acid and its derivatives in a composition comprising:
[0245] (a) at least one cationic polymer selected from chitosans, preferably of a molecular weight greater than 20,000;
[0246] (c) water; and
[0247] (d) oil,
[0248] in order to stabilize the composition.
[0249] The composition may also include (e) at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof and / or (f) at least one fatty acid.
[0250] The above explanations concerning (a) the cationic polymer, (b) the compound selected from salicylic acid and its derivatives, (c) water and (d) oil, as well as optional ingredients such as (e) a monovalent nonpolymeric acid or a salt thereof, and (f) a fatty acid, may be applied to those uses described above. EXAMPLES
[0251] The present invention will be described in more detail with the aid of examples. However, these examples shall not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention. Examples 1-10 and Comparative Examples 1-3 [Preparations]
[0252] Each of the compositions according to Examples 1-10 and Comparative Examples 1-3 was prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Tables 1-6. The numerical values of the quantities of ingredients in Tables 1-6 are all based on "% by weight" of active ingredients.
[0253] [Tables] Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Ex. Comp. 1 Water q.s. 100 q.s. 100 q.s. 100 q.s. 100 q.s. 100 Chitosan 2 2 2 2 Lactic acid 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 Salicylic acid 1 0.5 - - Capryloyl salicylic acid - - 1 - Corn oil 30 30 30 30 Stability Good Good Very good Poor
[0254] [Tables2] Example 4: Water q.s. 100, Chitosan 2, Lactic acid 0.9, Capryloyl salicylic acid 1.7, Corn oil 20. Stability: Very good
[0255] [Tables3] Ex. 3 Ex. 5 Ex. 6 Ex. Comp. 2 Water q.s. 100 q.s. 100 q.s. 100 q.s. 100 q.s. 100 Chitosan 2 2 3 2 Lactic acid 0.9 0.9 1.35 0.9 Capryloyl salicylic acid 1 1 1 - Corn oil 30 40 30 30 Stability Very good Very good Very good Poor
[0256] [Tables4] Ex. 7 Ex. 8 Water qsp 100 qsp 100 Chitosan 2 2 Lactic acid 0.9 0.9 Salicylic acid 0.5 0.5 Oleic acid - 0.5 Corn oil 10 10 Stability Good Very good
[0257] [Tables5]
[0259]
[0260]
[0261]
[0262]
[0263]
[0264]
[0265]
[0266]
[0267]
[0258] Ex. 9 Ex. Comp. 3 Water qsp 100 qsp 100 Glycerin 5 - Chitosan 2 2 Lactic acid 0.72 0.9 Salicylic acid 0.5 - Oleic acid 0.5 - Corn oil 10 10 Stability Very good Poor [Tables] Ex. 10 Water qsp 100 Glycerin 5 Chitosan 4 Salicylic acid 2 Oleic acid 0.5 Corn oil 10 Stability Very good [Assessment] (Stability) Each of the compositions according to examples 1-10 and comparative examples 1-3 was stored in a transparent container at room temperature for one day. The stability of the compositions was observed visually and evaluated according to the following criteria. Very good: The composition was uniform. Good: The composition was uniform, but a slight unevenness was observed. Poor: The composition was not uniform and an irregularity was observed. Very poor: Phase separation was observed. The results are shown in Tables 1 to 6. (Summary) According to Table 1, the compositions according to Examples 1 to 3 were stable, while the composition according to Comparative Example 1 was unstable. The composition According to Example 3, it was more preferable because it showed better stability than the composition according to Example 1.
[0268] Table 2 shows that the composition according to example 4 including a relatively small amount (20% by weight) of oil was stable.
[0269] Table 3 shows that the composition according to the present invention can include a relatively large quantity (40% by weight) of oil.
[0270] Table 4 shows that the addition of a fatty acid (oleic acid) can improve the stability of the composition according to the present invention.
[0271] Table 5 shows that a polyalcohol (glycerin) can be added to the composition according to the present invention.
[0272] Table 6 shows that a monovalent non-polymeric acid (lactic acid) or a salt thereof can be removed from the composition according to the present invention.
[0273] In addition, the compositions according to the present invention comprise one or more environmentally friendly ingredient(s).
Claims
Demands
1. A composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cosmetic composition for a keratinous substance such as skin, comprising: (a) at least one cationic polymer selected from chitosans; (b) at least one compound selected from salicylic acid and its derivatives; (c) water; and (d) oil, wherein the composition does not comprise a surfactant or comprises at least one surfactant in an amount less than or equal to 1% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 0.1% by weight and, more preferably, less than 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the (a) cationic polymer is selected from chitosans of a molecular weight greater than 20 OOODa.
3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the amount of the (a) cationic polymer(s) in the composition is from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight and, more preferably, from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
4. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the salicylic acid derivative is selected from the compounds represented by formula (I): O. PR3 % / c 1 {l) 2, in which Ri represents hydrogen or a saturated, linear, branched, or cyclized aliphatic hydrocarbon group, or an alkoxy, ester, or ketox group, or an unsaturated group having at least one conjugated or non-conjugated double bond, wherein these groups may contain 1 to 22 carbon atoms and optionally substituted by at least one substituent selected from halogen atoms, trifluoromethyl groups, hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified by an acid comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; R2 is a hydroxyl group or an ester group of formula (II): -oc-r4 (II) where R4 represents a saturated aliphatic hydrocarbon group or an alkenyl group comprising from 1 to 18 carbon atoms; and R3 represents hydrogen or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched aliphatic hydrocarbon group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally containing one or more substituents as defined above.
5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the (d) oil is selected from vegetable oils, synthetic ester oils and mixtures thereof, and preferably from vegetable oils.
6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the composition further comprises (e) at least one monovalent non-polymer acid or a salt thereof, preferably a monovalent non-polymer organic acid or a salt thereof, more preferably a monovalent carboxylic acid or a salt thereof, and even more preferably lactic acid or a salt thereof.
7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, the composition further comprising (f) at least one fatty acid.
8. Composition according to claim 7, wherein the (f) fatty acid is selected from saturated and unsaturated fatty acids, linear or branched in C4-C26, preferably in C6-C24, more preferably in C8-22.
9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the pH of the composition is between 3 and 8, preferably between 3 and 7.5 and, more preferably, between 3 and 7.
10. A cosmetic process for a keratinous substance such as skin, comprising: the application of the composition to the keratinous substance according to any one of claims 1 to 9; and the drying of the composition to form a cosmetic film on the keratinous substance.