Textile comprising a ribbed knitted portion and comprising a first yarn containing pectin and a second elastically deformable yarn - process and associated products
A textile with alternating cellulose-pectin and elastane yarns in nxn ribs addresses the environmental and performance issues of synthetic sportswear by providing elasticity, perspiration absorption, and odor control, ensuring longevity and comfort in tight-fitting clothing.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2023005333
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Utility models
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2023-05-30
- Publication Date
- 2025-07-18
- Estimated Expiration
- 2033-05-30
AI Technical Summary
Existing sportswear made from synthetic materials is not environmentally friendly, does not absorb perspiration, retains odors, and lacks elasticity, making it unsuitable for tight-fitting clothing like leggings and bras.
A textile comprising nxn ribs formed by alternating rows of a first yarn containing cellulose and pectin and a second hydrophobic, elastically deformable yarn, such as elastane, which provides elasticity, absorbs perspiration, and limits odor retention.
The textile maintains comfort and opacity while absorbing perspiration, reducing odor, and preventing pectin leaching, ensuring longevity and elasticity in tight-fitting garments.
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Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Textile comprising a portion knitted in ribs and comprising a first yarn containing pectin and a second elastically deformable yarn - method and associated products Technical field of the invention
[0001] The present invention relates to a textile, in particular a knit, usable for the manufacture of underwear, in particular bras or tight-fitting clothing, in particular for sport, such as underpants or leggings, for example.
[0002] The present invention also relates to a method of manufacturing this textile as well as products containing the textile of the invention. Prior art
[0003] Sportswear is often made of synthetic material derived from petrochemicals. It fits the body perfectly and does not hinder movement. It is lightweight and dries easily. However, it does not absorb perspiration due to its hydrophobicity and also tends to retain perspiration odors even after washing. Its hydrophobicity does not allow bacteria and the molecules they secrete to be properly washed away.
[0004] These synthetic garments are not environmentally friendly. Their production is based on petroleum. In addition, these fibers potentially release microplastics when washed, which accumulate in the natural environment and become a real environmental scourge.
[0005] Faced with these environmental problems, there is an urgent need to use natural fibers and more particularly fibers from plants that can grow close to the place of textile production.
[0006] As examples of such plants, flax, hemp and nettle are plants that can grow in temperate climates. Unlike cotton, which comes from the seeds of the plant, these fibers come from the stem of the plants. They are therefore richer in lignin and therefore harder and longer than cotton fibers. Textiles comprising these fibers are generally quite thick or transparent when they are not. They have a high tensile strength. They are not very elastic and tend to deform with use, forming pockets. Such textiles cannot therefore be used for the manufacture of underwear or other tight-fitting, body-hugging clothing such as sportswear, in particular leggings (underpants).
[0007] Document US 9,686,092 B2 describes a knitted fabric which comprises a weft yarn and an effect yarn. The weft yarn comprises at least one elastic yarn while the effect yarn comprises a rigid yarn or an elastic yarn. The weft yarn is knitted in jersey and the effect yarn gives the knit a woven textile appearance thanks to loose stitches. This knit is obtained by circular knitting and allows for a close-fitting textile that does not form pockets. The yarn that is not elastic and that can partially form the weft yarn or the effect yarn can be wool, linen, silk, polyester, nylon, cotton or a cellulosic fiber with a count ranging from 150 to 6,000 denier. In the examples, only cotton is used; the other yarns are all olefinic polymer yarns.
[0008] The knit described in the aforementioned document is complicated to produce and mainly contains synthetic materials, derived from petrochemicals. It therefore has the same disadvantages as textiles made from synthetic materials.
[0009] An aim of the present invention is therefore to propose a textile comprising or consisting of at least one knitted portion and which mainly comprises natural plant fibers and which is elastically deformable.
[0010] Another aim of the present invention is to propose a textile which comprises mainly (more than 50% by mass) natural plant fibers and which makes it possible to manufacture close-fitting clothing or underwear.
[0011] Another aim of the present invention is to provide a textile which mainly comprises natural plant fibers and which is comfortable and pleasant to wear.
[0012] Another aim is to provide a knitted textile as mentioned above which is capable of absorbing perspiration and / or limiting the latter and / or limiting perspiration odors.
[0013] The present invention relates to a textile comprising at least one knitted portion formed of nxn ribs, n being an integer greater than or equal to 1 and less than or equal to 2 or 3. Characteristically, according to the invention, said knitted portion is formed of at least two rows consisting of a first row and a second row such that: • said first row is made up of nxn ribs knitted with at least one first yarn and at least one second yarn, said first yarn being made up of or comprising fibers containing cellulose and pectin and said second yarn being an elastically deformable yarn containing or made up of a polymer and having a hydrophilicity lower than that of said first yarn or being hydrophobic; and • said second row consists of nxn ribs knitted with said at least one first yarn, which is optionally knitted with at least one second yarn.
[0014] The textile of the invention may comprise at least one knitted portion or be made up of the knitted portion.
[0015] It should be noted that a knit is not the sum of the technical characteristics of the yarn(s) that constitute it. A knit is a metamaterial and therefore has characteristics that are conferred on it by the particular three-dimensional arrangement of the yarns. specific characteristics that constitute it. There is therefore a real technical combination between the chemical and physical nature of the threads and the pattern they form once knitted.
[0016] Thus, the nxn ribs are known to provide elasticity to the knit in a direction perpendicular to the length of the ribs. The ribs form columns of stitches in the knit. The use of the nxn ribs therefore provides elasticity to the knit of the invention, in the direction transverse to the length of the ribs.
[0017] The Applicant has found that it is also possible, due to the use of the second yarn at least every other row, to obtain a knit which is elastic depending on the length of the ribs and / or which has increased elasticity depending on the width of the ribs.
[0018] Furthermore, the Applicant has also demonstrated that the combination of the nxn ribs with the second yarn at least every other row makes it possible to protect the first yarn from heat, whether during the manufacture of the knit of the invention or during its possible ironing. This second yarn absorbs the heat, thus preventing the first yarn from being degraded, in particular by drying out the pectin it contains.
[0019] The first yarn that contains pectin turns out to give particular comfort to the textile of the invention. Indeed, the pectin that contains a variable quantity of water makes the knit supple and soft to the touch. It also allows water absorption useful in the case of sportswear. Combined with the nxn rib pattern, a knit is obtained that is breathable - due to the small tunnels formed between the columns of stitches where air can circulate - and absorbent due to the presence of pectin in the fibers.
[0020] The Applicant has also found that the presence of the second yarn also protects the first yarn from leaching of the pectin during washing with a surfactant (detergent). Indeed, the second yarn being more hydrophobic than the first, it will repel water and the surfactant; the first yarn which is knitted with this second yarn is therefore directly protected. Surprisingly, the first yarn which is knitted alone is also protected by the second yarn of the previous row and the following row even if they only come into occasional contact with the first yarn (at the level of the crossings forming the stitches). Since the pectin is not leached or is leached less, the textile of the invention remains comfortable, absorbent and flexible. It also shrinks less when washed.
[0021] Furthermore, since the first thread does not diminish or diminishes less by leaching of the pectin, the textile of the invention does not have a weight which decreases less over time; it therefore remains sufficiently opaque.
[0022] The Applicant also found that the textile of the invention had a water absorption capacity suitable for use in sportswear, despite the presence of the second yarn and even if the latter is hydrophobic. Although the Applicant is not bound by this explanation, it is probably the nxn rib pattern that gives a three-dimensional structure to the knit and thus increases the surface area total exchange with the skin. A Jersey knit, for example, is flat and therefore has a smaller surface area. In addition, the nxn ribs allow for a multiplication of contact points (crossings) of the first yarn; it follows that the water absorbed directly by contact with the first yarn can spread along the length of the latter by capillarity at the crossings, even in areas that have not been in direct contact with the water or located under the second yarn, for example.
[0023] Furthermore, the Applicant has also found that the textile of the invention makes it possible to limit or even avoid perspiration odors. This is explained on the one hand by the breathable effect of the textile explained above and which prevents maceration.
[0024] The Applicant has also found that the textile of the invention tends to shrink when washed, whereas a linen jersey or a linen and elastane jersey tends to loosen. The textile of the invention is therefore perfectly suited to the manufacture of tight-fitting clothing that will last over time; it will not relax and form pockets. In addition, the shrinkage of the textile will also slow down the leaching of the pectin and therefore preserve the linen fiber.
[0025] Advantageously, n is equal to 1 or 2. This produces small ribs which are particularly aesthetic and which confer good mechanical properties to the fabric of the invention. The breathable character is also present even with ribs of small width.
[0026] Advantageously, the second thread is hydrophobic. It does not absorb water.
[0027] Advantageously, whatever the embodiment, said knitted portion is formed of first rows consisting solely of said first yarn knitted with a single second yarn and second rows consisting of said first knitted yarn.
[0028] A knit is thus obtained which may contain only a small amount of second yarn and is therefore more environmentally friendly when the second yarn is a synthetic yarn derived from petrochemicals. In particular, with a judicious choice of yarn count, it is possible to obtain a textile according to the invention which can be used for the manufacture of leggings or sports bras and which contains a maximum of 10% of second yarn by mass and in particular 5% or 3%. This is the case for fine linen and elastane, in particular.
[0029] The terms "knitted with a second yarn" indicate that said second yarn can at least partially cover said first yarn, cover it on all the stitches or be at least partially arranged next to the first yarn.
[0030] Advantageously, the second thread is located behind the first thread. The Applicant has demonstrated that, contrary to all expectations, it is possible to obtain good water absorption from the textile of the invention, almost non-existent residual perspiration odors and protection against heat even when the second thread is covered by the first thread.
[0031] Advantageously, said at least first thread contains or is made of fibers chosen from linen, hemp, nettle fibers, including ramie and mixtures of these fibers.
[0032] Such fibers contain pectin, are long and therefore resistant to traction and come from plants likely to grow annually in our latitudes. The use of these fibers makes it possible to obtain a textile according to the invention which is particularly ecological, especially when the first thread is made of these fibers. Linen is preferred for its resistance to abrasion, its tensile strength and its high pectin content which makes it flexible, comfortable and absorbent.
[0033] Advantageously, whatever the embodiment, the fibers of said first yarn have a length greater than or equal to 15mm and less than or equal to 60mm.
[0034] Advantageously, whatever the embodiment, said second yarn is chosen from polyisoprene yarns including cis-1,4-polyisoprene, polybutadiene yarns, styrene-butadiene copolymer yarns, polyurethane yarns, in particular elastane, polybutylene terephthalate yarns, trimethylene polyterephthalate yarns, yarns made of polyethylene terephthalate and dextrose and mixtures of these yarns.
[0035] These threads are hydrophobic threads derived from petrochemicals. They are elastic and make it possible to give the textile of the invention all of the aforementioned properties.
[0036] Advantageously, whatever the embodiment, a first linen thread and a second elastane thread or one containing elastane are chosen.
[0037] According to a particular embodiment, the first thread is a fine linen and the second thread is an elastane thread.
[0038] The yarn counts are not limited according to the invention. Thus, said first yarn may have a metric number greater than or equal to 30 and less than or equal to 45 and in particular equal to 39; said second yarn may have a count equal to or greater than 20 dtex and equal to or less than 50 dtex and in particular equal to 45 dtex.
[0039] Advantageously, according to an embodiment that can be combined with each of the aforementioned embodiments, the first yarn has a metric number equal to 39 and the second yarn has a count equal to 45dtex. Such a combination makes it possible to obtain an opaque and tight-fitting knit perfectly suited for underwear and sportswear. The textile can thus contain less than 10% by mass (or even 5% or less, or 3%) of the second yarn, in particular when it is an elastane yarn, the first yarn being linen.
[0040] It is nevertheless also possible to obtain a textile according to the invention which contains less than 10% by mass (or even 5% or less, or 3% or less) of the second yarn, in particular when it is an elastane yarn, the first yarn being linen with different metric yarn numbers.
[0041] Without this being limiting, said knitted portion may have a weight equal to or greater than 260g / m2 and equal to or less than 450g / m2 and in particular equal to 320g / m2. It is thus thin enough to fit the body and opaque enough to hide it or hide underwear.
[0042] The number of stitches contained in 2.54 cm of knitting according to the invention is not limited. Thus, the textile of the invention may have a knitted portion which has a number of stitches contained in 2.54 cm equal to or greater than 12 and equal to or less than 20 and in particular equal to 16. The textile of the invention can therefore be easily manufactured with existing standard knitting machines.
[0043] Advantageously, whatever the embodiment, in mass percentage said second yarn represents from 2% to 35% of the mass of said portion and in particular 3%, 5%, 10% or 30% by mass of said knitted portion.
[0044] Without this being limiting, the knitted portion may have a moisture uptake rate greater than 8% and less than 15% and in particular equal to 9%, 10%, 11% or 12%. This results in a textile which has substantially the same absorbent power as linen alone and the same absorption kinetics, which is rapid and therefore particularly interesting for sports clothing.
[0045] Advantageously, the textile of the invention consists of the knitted portion and is circular. Circular knitting makes it possible to manufacture bras and briefs with a minimum of seams. Circular knitting can be used for the legs of the briefs, the elastic waistband and the elastic support band of the bra.
[0046] The present invention also relates to a method for manufacturing a textile according to the invention. According to this method, on at least one portion, rows formed by alternating n knit stitches and n purl stitches are knitted, in particular in a circular manner, so as to form nxn ribs, n being an integer greater than or equal to 1 and less than or equal to 2 or 3. Characteristically, a. A first row is knitted with at least one first yarn and at least one second yarn, said first yarn being made up of or comprising fibers containing cellulose and pectin and said second yarn being an elastically deformable yarn containing or made up of a polymer and having a hydrophilicity lower than that of said first yarn or being hydrophobic; and b. A second row is knitted with said at least first yarn formed and possibly said at least second yarn; optionally repeating steps a) and b) to form said knitted portion and calendering said textile or at least said knitted portion at a temperature greater than or equal to 130°C so as to heat-set said second yarn.
[0047] Heat setting allows the dimensions of the second wire to be fixed. As seen previously, the first wire is not altered by this step.
[0048] It is possible to knit the knitted portion on a knitting machine in particular circular including 16 needles for 2.54cm. Any other loom can also be used, including a 3D knitting loom.
[0049] The present invention also relates to an article of clothing chosen from underwear and sportswear, in particular underpants, leggings, bras, T-shirts, socks. Typically, this article comprises at least one textile portion according to the invention.
[0050] Advantageously, for socks, leggings and bras in particular, the textile article is entirely made with a textile according to the invention or different embodiments of the textile of the invention. Thus, the areas which must be more elastic (support band at the waist, lower legs) can be made with knits according to the invention containing more of the second yarn, in particular more elastane, and / or with ribs of different widths and / or with yarns of different and suitable counts.
[0051] The textile of the invention can also be used for the manufacture of underwear or socks suitable for people with dermatological problems such as eczema or psoriasis. The pectin in the first yarn provides comfort and hydration to the skin while preventing maceration.
[0052] Definitions
[0053] According to the invention, nxn ribs are formed from a repetition of n knit stitches, possibly twisted, followed by n purl stitches, possibly twisted; the resulting pattern is a succession of knit stitch columns (possibly twisted) having a width of n stitches, spaced by purl stitch columns (possibly twisted) having a width of n stitches; the two faces of the knit are identical and the knit and purl columns have the same number of stitches in width.
[0054] For the purposes of the invention, a knit stitch is formed from one or more yarns knitted together which form a loop which is crossed by the yarn(s) in two places which constitute four crossings respectively -i—i-, the sign + indicating that the yarn(s) pass(s) above the yarn of the loop and the sign - indicating that the yarn(s) pass(s) below the yarn(s) of the loop.
[0055] For the purposes of the invention, a reverse stitch is formed from one or more threads knitted together which form a loop which is crossed by the thread(s) in two places which constitute four crossings respectively -++-, the sign + indicating that the thread(s) pass(s) above the thread(s) of the loop and the sign - indicating that the thread(s) pass(s) below the thread(s) of the loop.
[0056] A knit stitch and a purl stitch can be twisted when the yarn or yarns that form them is / are twisted around itself / themselves.
[0057] The term "hydrophilicity" within the meaning of the invention refers to the capacity of a given mass of material to absorb a mass of water in a given time. Within the meaning of the invention, a material is more hydrophilic than another if 100 grams of this material absorb a greater quantity of water than 100g of this other material (same temperature and same duration of contact with water).
[0058] According to the invention, the water uptake rate applies to a composite material while the hydrophilicity relates to a single material and in particular in the form of a thread, in the case of the present invention. The uptake rate corresponds according to the invention to the quantity of water absorbed by 100g of material to be tested, in particular at 20°C for a period of 20 min.
[0059] For the purposes of the invention, the term "pectin" designates all polysaccharides characterized by a skeleton of aD-galacturonic acid and small amounts of more or less branched aL-rhamnose. The degree of methylation of pectin is not limited according to the invention; thus, the term pectin can encompass pectic acids. Nevertheless, the degree of methylation is preferably equal to or greater than 50% and in particular equal to 70 or 80%.
[0060] The present invention, its characteristics and the various advantages that it provides will appear better on reading the following description of a particular embodiment, presented as an illustrative and non-limiting example and which refers to the appended drawings in which:
[0061] [Fig. 1] represents a diagram of a knitting machine making it possible to produce a particular embodiment of a knitted fabric according to the invention; and
[0062] [Fig.2] represents a photograph of a front view of the 1x1 rib knit portion of the embodiment of [Fig.l]; and
[0063] [Fig.3] schematically represents the 1x1 rib pattern of the embodiment of [Fig.2].
[0064] With reference to [Fig.l], an example of a knitting diagram will now be described. The knitting machine used may be a circular knitting machine. Any other machine, including a knitting machine capable of seamless 3-dimensional knitting, may also be used. The diagram in [Fig.l] shows two rows of needles A arranged in a staggered pattern around which the yarn(s) are wound to form loops. The yarn(s) also interweave the loops of the lower and upper rows, thus forming stitches that constitute the knitting.
[0065] With reference to [Fig.l], a row is formed of loops visible on the first face of the BAV knit and loops visible on the second face (back face) of the BAR knit. In [Fig.l], a BAR loop alternates with a BAV loop: these are 1x1 ribs. When two BAR loops alternate with 2 BAV loops, these are 2x2 ribs. The BAV loops thus form columns, as do the BAR loops (see [Fig.2]). These loops are crossed by the yarns also forming loops to form stitches. The stitches forming ribs give a three-dimensional structure to the knitting.
[0066] According to the particular embodiment of [Fig.l], the knit of the invention comprises an alternation of first and second rows. The first rows are made up of stitches formed by two yarns 1 and 2 knitted together. One of the yarns may cover the other at least partially or be arranged along the latter and / or possibly cross it. In the particular embodiment shown here, yarn 1 is a linen or hemp yarn while yarn 2 is an elastane yarn. The elastane yarn is preferably behind the linen yarn. The second rows are made up of 1x1 ribs formed solely by yarn 1.
[0067] With reference to [Fig.2], each face of the knit is formed of columns 21 of 1 knit stitch. The knit stitches form small Vs which fit into each other. The two faces of the knit are identical. A column 21 on the front face alternates with a column of 1 stitch visible on the back face. Thus, in [Fig.2] the columns 21 are spaced by the back face 22 of the columns arranged (projecting) on the back face of the knit. The back face of the columns 22 is formed of purl stitches while the columns 22 are formed of knit stitches.
[0068] With reference to [Fig.3], yarns 1 and 2 are represented by the same bold line. In the rectangle, we see the pattern of the 1x1 rib, namely a knit stitch followed by a purl stitch on the same row, all the knit stitches forming columns 21 and all the purl stitches forming columns 22 parallel to columns 21.
[0069] Example 1: Study of the influence of the presence of elastane yarn in the 1x1 rib pattern on the preservation of linen yarn
[0070] Linen contains pectin. Pectin tends to leach out during washing since it is water-soluble. This is why linen textiles tend to become transparent over time as the linen thread becomes finer.
[0071] For this study, two samples of the same dimensions (10 cmX10 cm) were produced with comparable metric yarn numbers. The first sample is made of 100% linen jersey. The second sample is a knit according to the invention. It is made of 1x1 linen and elastane ribs. Every other row contains an elastane yarn covered by the linen yarn. In mass, the sample contains 3% elastane.
[0072] The samples are washed for 30 min at 30°C with 5cl of detergent then spun at 800 rpm. The results are grouped in Table 1 below.
[0073] [Tables 1] Nature of the sample Mass in grams before washing Mass in grams after 4 washes Loss of mass in grams Loss of mass in % Jersey 100% linen 4.758 4.615 0.143 3.00% Rib 1.1 97% linen 3% Elastane 3.428 3.338 0.09 2.65%
[0074] It is noted that the knit of the invention is lighter than the jersey knit. It is also noted that after only 4 washes, the 100% linen jersey loses its mass and therefore becomes transparent. It is noted that after 4 washes, the presence of the second yarn in the 1x1 rib pattern protects the pectin of the linen fibers. As the linen yarn becomes thinner, the washing of the pectin tends to accelerate over time due to the greater penetration of water into the knit. It is therefore deduced that the knit of the invention will lose less pectin than the jersey and therefore remain opaque even after several washes.
[0075] Example 2: Study of the influence of elastane yarn and 1x1 rib pattern on textile shrinkage
[0076] A second test was carried out with samples measuring 26cmX26cm. The washing protocol is the same as that cited in Example 1. The results are grouped in Table 2 below. This time the comparison sample is a linen and elastane jersey. The length is always measured in the direction of the stitch columns. The mass percentage of elastane is the same for all samples.
[0077] [Tables2] Type of sample Initial length Length difference after 3 washes (%) 1x1 linen elastane rib 26 -1.92 Linen elastane jersey 26 1.54 100% linen jersey 26 3.85
[0078] The length difference in % is calculated as follows: (length after 3 washes - initial length) / initial length xlOO.
[0079] It can be seen from the results in Table 2 that the knit of the invention does not relax when washed but on the contrary contracts slightly. The linen and elastane jersey relaxes less than the 100% linen jersey. It can be seen that there is indeed a synergy between the 1x1 rib pattern and the second elastane yarn.
Claims
Claims
1. Textile comprising at least one knitted portion formed of nxn ribs, n being an integer greater than or equal to 1 and less than or equal to 2 or 3, characterized in that at least said knitted portion is formed of at least two rows consisting of a first row and a second row such that: • said first row consists of nxn ribs knitted with at least one first knitted yarn (1) and at least one second yarn (2), said first yarn (1) being made of or comprising fibers containing cellulose and pectin and said second yarn (2) being an elastically deformable yarn containing or made of a polymer and having a hydrophilicity lower than that of said first yarn or being hydrophobic; and • said second row consists of nxn ribs knitted with said at least first yarn (1), which is optionally knitted with said at least second yarn (2).
2. Textile according to claim 1, characterized in that said knitted portion is formed of first rows consisting solely of said first yarn knitted with a single second yarn and second rows consisting of said first knitted yarn.
3. Textile according to any one of claims 1 and 2, characterized in that said at least first yarn contains or is made up of fibers chosen from linen, hemp, nettle fibers, including ramie and mixtures of these fibers.
4. Textile according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that said second yarn is chosen from polyisoprene yarns including cis-1,4-polyisoprene, polybutadiene yarns, styrene-butadiene copolymer yarns, polyurethane yarns, in particular elastane, polybutylene terephthalate yarns, polytrimethylene terephthalate yarns, yarns made of polyethylene terephthalate and dextrose and mixtures of these yarns.
5. Textile according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said first yarn has a metric number greater than or equal to 30 and less than or equal to 45 and in particular equal to 39. and / or in that said second yarn has a count equal to or greater than 20 dtex and equal to or less than 50 dtex and in particular equal to 45 dtex.
6. Textile according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said knitted portion has a weight equal to or greater than 260g / m2 and equal to or less than 450g / m2 and in particular equal to 320g / m2.
7. Textile according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that in mass percentage said second yarn represents from 2% to 35% of the mass of said portion and in particular 3%, 5%, 10% or 30% by mass of said knitted portion.
8. A method of manufacturing a knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 7, according to which, on at least one portion, rows formed by alternating n knit stitches and n purl stitches are knitted, in particular in a circular manner, so as to form nxn ribs, n being an integer greater than or equal to 1 and less than or equal to 2 or 3, characterized in that a. A first row is knitted with at least one first yarn (1) and at least one second yarn (2), said first yarn being made up of or comprising fibers containing cellulose and pectin and said second yarn being an elastically deformable yarn containing or made up of a polymer and having a hydrophilicity lower than that of said first yarn (1) or being hydrophobic; and b.A second row is knitted with said at least first yarn (1) and optionally said at least second yarn (2); in that steps a) and b) are optionally repeated to form said portion and in that said textile or at least said portion is calendered at a temperature greater than or equal to 130°C so as to heat-set said second yarn (2).
9. Clothing item chosen from underwear and sportswear, in particular underpants, leggings, bras, T-shirts, socks, characterized in that it comprises or is made up of at least a portion of the knit according to any one of claims 1 to 8.