Composition comprising a UV filter, a semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain and a scleroglucan gum

Abstract

Composition comprising a UV filter, a semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain, and a scleroglucan gum. The present invention relates to a composition, particularly for cosmetic or dermatological use, preferably in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising: - at least one UV filter; - at least one semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain; and - at least one scleroglucan gum. The present invention provides a composition with strong UV protection that is stable over time and also exhibits good cosmetic properties such as a cooling effect and a non-greasy, non-sticky texture.

Description

Title of the invention: Composition comprising a UV filter, a semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain and a scleroglucan gum

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition, in particular cosmetic or dermatological, comprising at least one UV filter, at least one semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain, and at least one scleroglucan gum, and to the use of said composition in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, in particular for the care and treatment of keratinous materials, and in particular for the care, protection and / or makeup of the skin of the body or face.

[0002] It is known that light radiation with wavelengths between 280 nm and 400 nm causes the human epidermis to brown. Rays with wavelengths more specifically between 280 and 320 nm, known as UV-B, cause erythema and skin burns that can interfere with the development of a natural tan.

[0003] For these reasons, as well as for aesthetic reasons, there is a constant demand for means of controlling this natural tanning in order to control skin color: it is therefore necessary to filter UV-B radiation. It is also known that UV-A rays, with wavelengths between 320 and 400 nm, which cause skin tanning, are likely to induce skin damage, particularly in the case of sensitive skin or skin continuously exposed to solar radiation. In particular, UV-A rays cause a loss of skin elasticity and the appearance of wrinkles, leading to premature skin aging.

[0004] Thus, for aesthetic and cosmetic reasons, such as preserving the skin's natural elasticity, for example, more and more people wish to control the effect of UV-A rays on their skin. It is therefore desirable to also filter UV-A radiation.

[0005] In order to ensure protection of the skin and keratinous materials against UV radiation, photo-protective compositions are generally used, comprising organic filters, active in UV-A and active in UV-B.

[0006] Numerous cosmetic compositions intended for skin photoprotection have been proposed to date. These compositions generally contain, in an emulsified liquid base (preferably an oil-in-water emulsion), one or more organic molecules capable of absorbing ultraviolet radiation, soluble in the oily and / or aqueous phase. The use of metal oxide mineral pigments such as titanium dioxide in such sunscreen compositions is becoming increasingly common because these particles, invisible to the naked eye due to their small size, increase the protection factor of the compositions containing them.

[0007] One of the major drawbacks of these photo-protective emulsions containing organic and / or mineral filters lies in the difficulty of reconciling good product stability, ease of product application, effective protection, preferably at least 40 SPF and 10 PPD, and a fresh and non-sticky feel.

[0008] The applicant discovered that this objective could be achieved with the association of a semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain and a scleroglucan gum.

[0009] Thus, the present invention relates, according to a first aspect, to a composition, in particular a cosmetic or dermatological one, comprising: - at least one UV filter; - at least one semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain; and - at least one scleroglucan gum.

[0010] Against all expectations, the inventors found that the implementation, in a photoprotective composition, of the association of a scleroglucan gum with a semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain makes it possible to obtain a composition that is easy to spread, with strong photoprotective power and which is nevertheless stabilized over time, also exhibiting good cosmetic properties such as a cooling power and a non-greasy and non-sticky texture.

[0011] The invention also relates, according to another of its aspects, to the use of a composition as defined above, for the care of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin of the body and / or face.

[0012] The invention also relates, according to yet another aspect, to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for making up and / or caring for keratinous materials, in particular the skin of the body and / or face, comprising at least the application on said keratinous materials of a cosmetic composition as defined above.

[0013] It also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for limiting skin darkening and / or improving the color and / or homogeneity of the complexion comprising the application on the surface of the keratinous material of at least one cosmetic composition as defined above.

[0014] It also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for preventing and / or treating the signs of aging of a keratinous material comprising the application to the surface of the keratinous material of at least one composition cosmetics as defined previously.

[0015] The composition according to the invention exhibits good stability. This stability can be evaluated macroscopically and / or microscopically after storage for 24 hours, one week, one month, or two months at room temperature (25°C), 4°C, 45°C, or 55°C. A stable composition generally retains its pleasantness and sensory signature upon application over time. More specifically, the stability of a composition can be assessed qualitatively, for example, by the absence of phase separation or crystal formation, or quantitatively by monitoring the evolution of parameters such as viscosity or pH.

[0016] Within the framework of the invention, the filtering efficiency is evaluated from the evaluation of the SPF and the UVAPF.

[0017] For the purposes of this invention, "SPF" (Sun Protection Factor) means the sun protection factor, which measures the level of protection against UVB radiation. The SPF value corresponds to the ratio between the minimum time required to obtain a sunburn with a photoprotective composition and that without the product. More specifically, the term "SPF" is defined in the article "A new substrate to measure sunscreen protection factors throughout the ultraviolet spectrum," J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 40, 127-133 (May / June 1989).

[0018] The SPF (Sun Protection Factor) can be evaluated in vitro using the Labsphere® spectrophotometer. The plate is the material onto which the photoprotective composition is applied. For this protocol, polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) plates have proven ideal. A specific protocol, presented as an example, is currently undergoing ISO approval under the name ISO Committee Draft 23675.

[0019] The evaluation of the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of compositions can also be carried out in-vivo according to the ISO 24444:2019 protocol "Cosmetics-Sun protection test methods-In-vivo determination of the sun protection factor (SPF)".

[0020] For the purposes of this invention, UVAPF refers to the index characterizing protection against UVA radiation. In particular, this index can be measured in vivo according to the "PPD" (Persistent Pigment Darkening) method, ISO 24442:2022 protocol, by observing skin color 2 to 4 hours after UVA exposure. UVA protection can also be assessed in vitro using the Labsphere® spectrophotometer. The plate is the material onto which the sunscreen composition is applied. For this protocol, polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) plates have proven ideal. ISO 24443:2021 protocol describes such an in vitro method.

[0021] Other features, aspects and advantages of the invention will become apparent from the detailed description that follows.

[0022] The composition according to the invention is intended for topical application and therefore contains a physiologically acceptable medium. Hereinafter, "physiologically acceptable medium" means a medium compatible with keratinous materials.

[0023] In the context of the present invention, "keratinic material" means in particular the skin, the scalp, keratinic fibers such as eyelashes, eyebrows, hair, and body hair, nails, mucous membranes such as lips, and more particularly the skin and mucous membranes (body, face, eye contour, eyelids, lips, preferably body, face and lips).

[0024] In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the bounds of a range of values ​​are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between" and "ranging from ... to ...".

[0025] Furthermore, the expressions "at least one" and "at least" used in this description are respectively equivalent to the expressions "one or more" and "greater than or equal to".

[0026] By "prevent" or "prevention", according to the invention, means reducing the risk of occurrence or slowing down the occurrence of a given phenomenon, namely, according to the present invention, the signs of aging of a keratinous material.

[0027] By "organic UVA filter" is meant any organic chemical molecule capable of absorbing at least UVA radiation in the wavelength range between 320 and 400 nm; said molecule also being able to absorb UVB radiation in the wavelength range between 280 and 320 nm.

[0028] By "organic UVB filter", we mean any organic chemical molecule capable of exclusively absorbing UVB radiation in the range of wavelengths between 280 and 320 nm. UV filters

[0029] The compositions according to the invention contain one or more UV filters. These can be selected from hydrophilic, lipophilic, or insoluble organic UV filters and / or one or more mineral pigments. Preferably, the filtering system will consist of at least one organic UV filter, in particular a hydrophilic, lipophilic, or insoluble organic UV filter.

[0030] By "hydrophilic UV filter" is meant any organic or inorganic cosmetic or dermatological compound that filters UV radiation and is capable of being completely dissolved in molecular form in a liquid aqueous phase or of being solubilized in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid aqueous phase.

[0031] By "lipophilic UV filter" is meant any organic or inorganic cosmetic or dermatological compound that filters UV radiation and is likely to be com completely dissolved in molecular form in a liquid oil phase or to be solubilized in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid oil phase.

[0032] By "insoluble UV filter" is meant any organic or inorganic cosmetic or dermatological compound that filters UV radiation and has a solubility in water of less than 0.5% by weight and a solubility of less than 0.5% by weight in most organic solvents such as paraffin oil, fatty alcohol benzoates, and fatty acid triglycerides, for example, Miglyol 812® marketed by DYNAMIT NOBEL. This solubility, measured at 70 °C, is defined as the amount of product dissolved in the solvent at equilibrium with an excess of suspended solids after returning to room temperature. It can easily be evaluated in the laboratory.

[0033] Organic UV filters are in particular selected from cinnamic compounds; anthranilate compounds; salicylic compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds; benzylidene camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; [3,[3-diphenylacrylate] compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds, in particular those cited in US patent 5624663; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazoline compounds; bis-benzoazolyl compounds as described in patents EP 669 323 and US 2,463,264; methylene bis-(hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole) compounds as described in US applications 5,237,071, US 5,166,355, GB 2303549, DE 197 26 184 and EP 893 119; benzoxazole compounds as described in patent applications EP 0 832 642, EP 1 027 883, EP 1 300 137 and DE 10 162 844; filter polymers and filter silicones such as those described in particular in application WO-93 / 04665;α-Alkylstyrene-derived dimers such as those described in patent application DE 19 855 649; 4,4-Diarylbutadiene compounds such as those described in applications EP 0 967 200, DE 19 746 654, DE 19 755 649, EP-A-1008586, EP 1 133 980 and EP 133 981, and mixtures thereof.

[0034] Examples of organic photoprotective agents include those designated below by their INCI name and / or their chemical name.

[0035] Cinnamic compounds: Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, sold notably under the trade name PARSOL ® MCX by DSM Nutritial Products, Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate sold under the trade name NEO HELIOPAN E 1000 ® by Symrise,

[0036] Dibenzoylmethane compounds: Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane sold notably under the trade name PARSOL ® 1789 by DSM Nutritial Products,

[0037] Salicylic compounds: Homosalate sold under the name “Parsol® HMS” by the company DSM Nutritional Products, Ethylhexyl Salicylate sold under the name "NEO HELIOPAN ® OS" by Symrise,

[0038] Compounds BB-diphenvlacrvlate: Octocrylene, sold notably under the trade name "UVINUL ® N 539 T" by BASF,

[0039] Benzophenone compounds: Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone, sold under the trade name "UVINUL ® M 40" by BASF, n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)-benzoate, INCI name Di-thylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, sold under the trade name "UVINUL® A Plus" or in mixture with ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate under the trade name "UVINUL® A Plus B" by BASF, 1,1'-(1,4-piperazinediyl)bis[l-[2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]phenyl]-metha none (CAS 919803-06-8) as described in application WO 2007 / 071584; this compound being advantageously used in micronized form (average size of 0.02 to 2 pm) which can be obtained, for example, by the micronization process described in applications GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893119 and in particular in aqueous dispersion form,

[0040] Benzylidene camphor compounds: 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor sold under the name "EUSOLEX ® 6300" by MERCK, Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid manufactured under the name "MEXORYL ® SX" by NOVEAL,

[0041] Phenyl benzimidazole compounds: Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid sold notably under the trade name "EUSOLEX ® 232" by MERCK.

[0042] Bis-benzoazolyl compounds: Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetra-sulfonate sold under the trade name "NEO HELIOPAN ® AP" by Symrise,

[0043] Phenyl benzotriazole compounds: Drometrizole Trisiloxane manufactured under the name "MEXORYL ® XL" by NOVEAL,

[0044] Compounds methylene bis-(hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole): Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, particularly in solid form such as the product sold under the trade name "MIXXIM BB / 100 ®" by FAIRMOUNT CHEMICAL, or as an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having an average particle size ranging from 0.01 to 5 pm, and more preferably from 0.01 to 2 pm, and more particularly from 0.020 to 2 pm, with at less an alkylpolyglycoside surfactant of structure CnH2n+iO(C6HiO5)xH in which n is an integer from 8 to 16 and x is the average degree of polymerization of the unit (C6HiO5) and varies from 1.4 to 1.6 as described in patent GB-A-2 303 549, notably sold under the trade name "TINOSORB® M" by BASF, or in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having an average particle size ranging from 0.02 to 2 pm, and more preferably from 0.01 to 1.5 pm, and more particularly from 0.02 to 1 pm, in the presence of at least one mono-(C8-C2O)alkyl ester of polyglycerol having a degree of polymerization of glycerol of at least 5 such as the aqueous dispersions described in application WO 2009 / 063392, in particular the product marketed under the name "TINOSORB ® WPGL" by BASF,

[0045] Triazine compounds: - 3,3'-(l,4-Phenylene)bis(5,6-diphenyl-l,2,4-triazine), INCI name Phenylene Bis-Diphenyl triazine, - Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine sold under the trade name "Parsol Shield ®" by DSM Nutritional Products and under the trade name "TINOSORB ® S" by BASF, and in its water-dispersible form with the INCI name Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (and) Acrylates / C 12-22 Alkyl Methacrylate Copolymer, under the trade name TINOSORB® S LiteAqua by BASF, - Ethylhexyl Triazone, sold notably under the trade name "UVINUL ® T 150" by BASF, - Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone sold under the trade name "UVASORB ® HEB" by 3V SIGMA, - symmetrical triazine filters substituted with naphthalenyl groups or polyphenyl groups described in US patent 6,225,467, application WO 2004 / 085412 (see compounds 6 and 9) or the document "Symetrical Triazine Derivatives" IP.COM IPCOM000031257 Journal, INC WEST HENRIETTA, NY, US (September 20, 2004), in particular 2,4,6-tris(bi-phenyl)-triazine and 2,4,6-tris(ter-phenyl)-triazine marketed under the name TINOSORB® A2B by BASF and which is covered in patent applications WO 06 / 035000, WO 06 / 034982, WO 06 / 034991, WO 06 / 035007, WO 2006 / 034992, WO 2006 / 034985, these compounds being advantageously used in micronized form (average particle size of 0.02 to 3 pm) which can be obtained, for example, by the micronization process described in applications GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893119 and in particular in aqueous dispersion form,

[0046] Anthranilic compounds: Menthyl anthranilate sold under the trade name "NEO HELIOPAN ® MA" by Symrise.

[0047] Benzalmalonate compounds: Benzalmalonate-function polyorganosiloxane such as Polysilicone-15 sold under the trade name "PARSOL ® SLX" by DSM Nutritional Products,

[0048] Benzoxazole compounds: 2,4-bis-[5-l(dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)-imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)-imi no-l,3,5-triazine sold under the name "Uvasorb ® K2A" by 3V Sigma, 2-[4-(l,3-benzoxazol-2-yl)phenyl]-l,3-benzoxazole, cas number 904-39-2.

[0049] The preferred organic filters are chosen from: Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Homosalate, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Octocrylene Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid, Benzophenone-3 Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor, Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid, Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetra-sulfonate, Méthylène bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphénol, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, 2,4,6-tris-(bi-phenyl)-triazine, 2,4,6-tris-(ter-phenyl)-triazine, Drometrizole Trisiloxane, Polysilicone-15, Bis-(diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl benzoyl)piperazine, et leurs mélanges.

[0050] Les filtres organiques particulièrement préférés sont choisis parmi : Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Homosalate, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Octocrylene, Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, Bis-(diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl benzoyl)piperazine, Drometrizole Trisiloxane, 2,4,6-tris-(bi-phenyl)-triazine, and mixtures thereof.

[0051] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine.

[0052] The inorganic UV filters used according to the present invention may be metal oxide pigments. More preferably, the inorganic UV filters of the invention are metal oxide particles having an average particle size less than or equal to 0.5 pm, more preferably between 0.005 and 0.5 pm, and even more preferably between 0.01 and 0.2 pm, even better between 0.01 and 0.1 pm, and more particularly between 0.015 and 0.05 pm. They are described in particular in Annex VI, updated on 22 / 09 / 2021, of European Cosmetics Regulation No. 1223 / 2009, but are not limited to this list.

[0053] They can in particular be chosen from titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, cerium oxides or mixtures thereof.

[0054] Such metallic oxide pigments, coated or uncoated, are described in particular in patent application EP-A-0 518 773. As commercial pigments, mention may be made of the products sold by the companies CRODA, TAYCA, and MERCK.

[0055] Metal oxide pigments may be coated or uncoated.

[0056] Coated pigments are pigments that have undergone one or more surface treatments of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and / or mechanical nature with compounds such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts, fatty acids, metal alkoxides (titanium or aluminum), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.

[0057] The coated pigments are more particularly titanium oxides coated with: - hydrated silica such as the product "MT-100WP" from TAYCA, - silica and iron oxide such as the product "SUNVEIL F®" from IKEDA, - silica and alumina such as the products "MT-500SA®" and "MT-100SA®" from TAYCA, "TIOVEIL™ AQ-N" from CRODA, - alumina such as the "TTO-55 (A)®" products from the ISHIHARA company, - of alumina and aluminum stearate such as the products "MT-100TV®, MT-100Z®, MT-01®" from the company TAYCA, the product "Solaveil™ CT100" from the company CRODA and the product "Eusolex T-AVO®" from the company MERCK, - of silica, alumina and alginic acid such as the product "MT-100AQ®" from the company TAYCA, - of alumina and aluminum laurate, - iron oxide and iron stearate, - zinc oxide and zinc stearate, - of silica and alumina treated with silicone, such as the products "MTY-500SAS®" or "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT-100SAS®" from the company TAYCA, - of silica, alumina, aluminum stearate treated with silicone, - of silica treated with silicone, - alumina and treated with silicone such as the "TTO-55(S)®" products from the ISHIHARA company, - triethanolamine, - stearic acid such as the product "TTO-55 (C)®" from the company ISHIHARA, - sodium hexametaphosphate, - TiO2 treated with octyl trimethyl silane, - TiO2 treated with polydimethylsiloxane, - TiO2 anatase / rutile treated with polydimethylhydrogenosiloxane - TiO2 coated with triethylhexanoin, aluminum stearate, alumina, sold under the trade name "Solaveil™ CT-200" by CRODA, - TiO2 coated with aluminum stearate, alumina and silicone, sold under the trade name "Solaveil™ CT-12W" by CRODA, - TiO2 coated with lauroyl lysine, - TiO2 coated with C9-C15 fluoroalcohol phosphate and aluminum hydroxide.

[0058] Other examples include TiO2 pigments doped with at least one transition metal such as iron, zinc, manganese, and more particularly manganese. Preferably, said doped pigments are in the form of an oily dispersion. The oil present in the oily dispersion is preferably selected from triglycerides, including those of capric / caprylic acids. The oily dispersion of titanium dioxide particles may also include one or more dispersing agents such as, for example, a sorbitan ester like sorbitan isostearate, a polyoxyalkylated fatty acid and glycerol ester such as TRLPPG3 MYRISTYLETHER CITRATE and POLYGLYCERYL-3 POLYRICINOLEATE. Preferably, the oily dispersion of titanium oxide particles comprises at least one dispersing agent selected from polyoxyalkylated fatty acid and glycerol esters.One can cite in particular the oily dispersion of manganese-doped TiO2 particles in triglyceride. capric / caprylic acid in the presence of TRI-PPG-3 MYRISTYLETHER CITRATE and POLYGLYCERYL-3-POLYRICINOLEATE and SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE with INCI name: TITANIUM DIOXIDE (and) TRI-PPG-3 MYRISTYLETHER CITRATE (and) POLYGLYCERYL-3 RICINOLEATE (and) SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE as the product sold under the trade name "OPTISOL™ OTP-1" by the company CRODA.

[0059] Uncoated titanium oxide pigments are for example sold by the company TAYCA under the trade names "MT-500B" or "MT-600B®", by the company Evonik under the name "DEGUSSA P 25".

[0060] Uncoated zinc oxide pigments include, for example: - those marketed under the name "Z-COTE®" by the company BASF; - those marketed under the name "NanoArc® Zinc Oxide" by the company Nanophase Technologies.

[0061] Coated zinc oxide pigments are, for example: - ZnO coated with polymethylhydrogenesiloxane; - CRODA’s “Solaveil™ CZ-100” dispersed in Cl2-15 alkyl benzonate (INCI: Zinc Oxide (and) C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Isostearic Acid); - those marketed under the name and "DAITOPERSION Zn-60VA®" by the company Daito Kasei (dispersions in C9-12 alkane with a dispersing agent); - those marketed under the name "SPD-Z5®" by the company Shin-Etsu (ZnO coated by silicone-grafted acrylic polymer, dispersed in cyclodimethyl-siloxane).

[0062] Uncoated cerium oxide pigments may be, for example, those sold under the name RHODIGARD® W185 by the company Solvay.

[0063] We can also mention mixtures of metal oxides, in particular titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide, including the equal weight mixture of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide coated with silica, as well as the mixture of titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide coated with alumina, silica and silicone or coated with alumina, silica and glycerin.

[0064] According to the invention, titanium oxide pigments, coated or uncoated, are particularly preferred.

[0065] UV filters can be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 60% by weight, preferably from 1% to 40% by weight, and even more preferably from 5% to 30% by weight, and better from 10% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0066] Semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain

[0067] As previously stated, the composition according to the invention comprises at least a semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain, the alkyl radicals preferably being in the Ci6-C22- group

[0068] For the purposes of this invention, "semi-crystalline polymer" means polymers comprising a crystallizable part, a hanging chain or sequence in the backbone, and an amorphous part in the backbone, and exhibiting a reversible phase change temperature of the first order, in particular melting temperature (solid-liquid transition).

[0069] When the crystallizable part is a sequence of the polymeric skeleton, this crystallizable sequence is of a different chemical nature from that of the amorphous sequences; the semi-crystalline polymer is in this case a sequenced polymer for example of the diblock, triblock or multiblock type, comprising at least one crystallizable sequence and at least one amorphous sequence.

[0070] By "sequence," we generally mean at least 5 identical repeating motifs. The crystallizable sequence(s) are then of a different chemical nature from the 5 amorphous sequence(s).

[0071] Advantageously, the semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain of the composition of the invention has an average molecular mass (Mn) greater than or equal to about 2000 g / mol, preferably about 2,000 to 800,000 g / mol, preferably about 3,000 to 500,000 g / mol, preferably about 4,000 to 150,000 g / mol, and preferably about 4,000 to 99,000 g / mol.

[0072] Apart from crystallizable chains or sequences, polymer sequences are amorphous.

[0073] For the purposes of this invention, a "crystallizable chain or sequence" is defined as a chain or sequence which, if alone, would reversibly transition from an amorphous to a crystalline state depending on whether it is above or below its melting temperature. A chain, as defined in this invention, is a group of atoms that hangs or is lateral to the polymer backbone. A sequence is a group of atoms belonging to the backbone, constituting one of the repeating units of the polymer. Advantageously, the "crystallizable hanging chain" can be a chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms.

[0074] Preferably, the polymer skeleton of semi-crystalline polymers is soluble in the oily phase.

[0075] Thus, the semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain used in the composition of the invention is generally introduced into the oily phase of the composition.

[0076] Preferably, the crystallizable sequences or chains of the semi-crystalline polymers containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain represent at least about 30% by weight and preferably at least about 40% by weight relative to the total weight of each polymer.

[0077] The semi-crystalline polymers with crystallizable sequences used according to the invention are sequenced or multi-sequenced polymers. They can be obtained by polymerization of monomers with reactive (or ethylenic) double bonds or by polycondensation. When the polymers of the invention are polymers with crystallizable side chains, they are advantageously in random or statistical form.

[0078] The semi-crystalline polymers of the invention may be of synthetic origin. Furthermore, they do not have a polysaccharide skeleton.

[0079] The semi-crystalline polymers of the composition of the invention may or may not be partially crosslinked. This may be due to chemical crosslinking, by reaction with a multifunctional monomer during polymerization. It may also be due to physical crosslinking, which may then be due either to the formation of hydrogen or dipolar bonds between groups carried by the polymer, such as dipolar interactions between carboxylate ionomers, these interactions being present in small quantities and carried by the polymer backbone; or to phase separation between the crystallizable sequences and the amorphous sequences carried by the polymer.

[0080] Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymers containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain of the composition according to the invention are non-crosslinked.

[0081] As an example of semi-crystalline polymers according to the invention containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain, one can cite those resulting from the polymerization of one or more saturated alkyl (meth)acrylates.

[0082] Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymers with crystallizable side chains are alkyl(meth)acrylate homopolymers, or copolymers of these monomers with a hydrophilic monomer.

[0083] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain is derived from a crystallizable chain monomer selected from saturated alkyl (meth)acrylates, and more particularly poly(stearyl acrylate) or poly(behenyl acrylate).

[0084] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain is chosen from the copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one crystallizable chain monomer chosen from the saturated alkyl (meth)acrylates.

[0085] According to a preferred embodiment, the semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain is chosen from homopolymers obtained by polymerization of a monomer chosen from alkyl acrylates and alkyl methacrylates, and from copolymers obtained by copolymerization of a monomer chosen from alkyl acrylates and alkyl methacrylates with a hydrophilic monomer, preferably N-vinylpyrrolidone or a hydroxyethyl (meth)acrylate, and mixtures thereof, even more preferably a hydroxyethyl (meth)acrylate, and their mixtures.

[0086] As a particular example of a semi-crystalline polymer usable in the composition according to the invention, we may mention homopolymers obtained by polymerization of a monomer chosen from alkyl acrylates and alkyl methacrylates, preferably from stearyl acrylates and behenyl acrylates, in particular polymers having the INCI name Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate such as the Intelimer® products of the EVONIK company such as the product Intelimer® IPA 13-1 which is a stearyl polyacrylate or the product Intelimer® IPA 13-6 which is a behenyl polymer (behenyl polyacrylate), or the Tego® SP products of the EVONIK company.

[0087] As a particular example of a semi-crystalline polymer usable in the composition, one can also mention copolymers obtained by copolymerization of a monomer chosen from alkyl acrylates and alkyl methacrylates, with a hydrophilic monomer, preferably a hydroxyethyl (meth)acrylate, in particular the copolymers described in applications FR 3 073 405 and FR 3 073 406, and preferably copolymers obtained by copolymerization of at least one monomer chosen from alkyl acrylates, preferably from behenyl acrylates, stearyl acrylates, and mixtures thereof, with a hydrophilic monomer such as hydroxyethyl (meth)acrylate and N-vinylpyrrolidone and preferably hydroxyethyl acrylate.

[0088] Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain is a behenyl acrylate / 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer, a stearyl acrylate / 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer and / or a mixture thereof, and in particular the polymer with INCI name: Poly C12-22 Alkyl Acrylate / Hydroxyethylacrylate Copolymer, notably marketed under the name Tego SP Senstar by EVONIK.

[0089] According to a preferred embodiment, the semi-crystalline polymer(s) containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain are selected from a stearyl polyacrylate, a behenyl polyacrylate, a behenyl acrylate / 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer, a stearyl acrylate / 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer, and one of their mixtures, in particular selected from the polymer with INCI name: Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate, the copolymer with INCI name Cl2-22 Alkyl Acrylate / Hydroxyethylacrylate Copolymer, and their mixtures, more particularly the polymer with INCI name: Cl2-22 Alkyl Acrylate / Hydroxyethylacrylate Copolymer.

[0090] According to a more preferred embodiment, the semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain is a polymer with INCI name: Cl2-22 Alkyl Acrylate / Hydroxyethylacrylate Copolymer.

[0091] More specifically, the composition according to the invention comprises, as a semi-crystalline polymer at least one lipophilic acrylic polymer containing monomeric units of formulas (A) and (B): [chem 1] in which: RI, independently of each other, is chosen from among the alkyl or alkenyl radicals, and at least 60% by weight of the RI groups are radicals selected from stearyl and behenyl radicals, the weight percentage referring to the sum of all RI groups present in the polymer, and the weight ratio of the sum of all hydroxyethyl acrylate units to the sum of all acrylate units bearing the RI group ranges from 1:30 to 1:1, and the sum of the total of units A and B is at least 95% by weight of the total weight of the polymer.

[0092] Preferably, RI consists of alkyl radicals, preferably alkyl radicals in Ci6-C22, and more preferably stearyl radicals (in Ci8) or behenyl radicals (in C22).

[0093] Preferably, at least 70% by weight of the RI groups are stearyl or behenyl radicals, preferably at least 80% by weight, more preferably at least 90% by weight.

[0094] According to a preferred embodiment, all RI groups are behenyl radicals.

[0095] According to another preferred embodiment, all RI groups are stearyl radicals.

[0096] Preferably, the weight ratio of the sum of all hydroxyethyl acrylate units to the sum of all acrylate units bearing the RI group goes from 1:15 to 1:1, preferably goes from 1:10 to 1:4.

[0097] Advantageously, the polymeric units present in the polymer consist of the units (A) and (B) described previously.

[0098] The polymer has an average number molecular weight (Mn) ranging from 2,000 to 9,000 g / mol, preferably ranging from 5000 to 9000 g / mol. The number-average molecular weight can be measured using the gel permeation chromatography method, for example according to the method described in the example below.

[0099] Preferably, the polymer has a melting temperature ranging from 40 °C to 70 °C, and preferably from 45 °C to 67 °C. The melting temperature is measured by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), for example according to the method described in the example below.

[0100] According to a first embodiment, when the polymer is such that at least 60% by weight of the RI groups are stearyl radicals, then the polymer preferably has a melting point ranging from 40 to 60 °C, and preferably ranging from 45 to 55 °C.

[0101] According to a second embodiment, when the polymer is such that at least 60% by weight of the RI groups are behenyl radicals, then the polymer has a melting temperature ranging from 60 °C to 70 °C, and preferably ranging from 63 °C to 67 °C.

[0102] The polymer used according to the invention can be prepared by polymerization of a monomer of the following formula: CH2=CH-COO-R1, RI having the meaning described above, and 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate.

[0103] Polymerization can be carried out according to known methods, such as solution polymerization or emulsion polymerization.

[0104] Polymerization is described for example in US document 2007 / 0264204.

[0105] The semi-crystalline polymer(s) containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain may be present in the composition according to the invention in an active material content ranging from 0.05 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.1 to 5% by weight, and better from 0.2 to 2% by weight. Scleroglucan gums

[0106] According to the invention, the composition comprises one or more scleroglucan gums.

[0107] Scleroglucan gums are polysaccharides of microbial origin produced by a Sclerotium-type fungus, in particular Sclerotium rolfsii. They are polysaccharides consisting solely of glucose units.

[0108] Scleroglucan gums may be modified or unmodified. Preferably, the scleroglucan gums used in the present invention are unmodified.

[0109] Examples of scleroglucan gums usable in the present invention are, without limitation, the products sold under the name ACTIGUM CS, in particular ACTIGUM CS 11, by the company SANOFI BIO INDUSTRIES and under the name AMIGUM or AMIGEL by the company ALBAN MULLER INTERNATIONAL.

[0110] Other scleroglucan gums, such as that treated with glyoxal described in French patent application no. 2 633 940, may also be used.

[0111] The scleroglucan gum(s) usable according to the invention preferably represent a total content of 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.2 to 5% by weight, and even more preferably 0.25 to 3% by weight, better 0.35 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Galenic

[0112] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition is in the form of an emulsion.

[0113] The term "emulsion" means any macroscopically homogeneous, kinetically stable composition comprising at least two immiscible phases; one being the continuous dispersing phase and the other being dispersed in said continuous phase in the form of droplets. The two phases are generally kinetically stabilized by at least one emulsifying system which may include at least one emulsifying surfactant.

[0114] A distinction is made between so-called "direct" oil-in-water emulsions, consisting of a continuous aqueous dispersing phase and a discontinuous dispersed oily phase, and so-called inverse water-in-oil emulsions, consisting of a continuous oily dispersing phase and a discontinuous dispersed aqueous phase. Multiple emulsions also exist, such as water-in-oil-in-water or oil-in-water-in-oil emulsions.

[0115] According to a preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention are direct emulsions.

[0116] The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one emulsifier selected from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or non-ionic emulsifiers, used alone or in mixtures. The emulsifiers are chosen appropriately depending on the emulsion to be obtained (W / O or W / O).

[0117] Examples of non-ionic W / O emulsifying surfactants include alkyl esters or ethers of sorbitan, glycerol, polyol, glycerol or sugars; silicone surfactants such as dimethicone copolyols like the mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol sold under the name "DC 5225 C®" by Dow Corning, and alkyl-dimethicone copolyols such as Lauryl-methicone copolyol sold under the name "Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid" by Dow Corning; Cetyl dimethicone copolyol, such as the product sold under the name Abil EM 90R® by Goldschmidt, and the mixture of cetyl dimethicone copolyol, polyglycerol isostearate (4 moles), and hexyl laurate sold under the name ABIL WE 09® by Goldschmidt. One or more co-emulsifiers may also be added, which advantageously, can be chosen from the group comprising alkylated polyol esters.

[0118] We can also mention non-siliconized emulsifying surfactants, in particular alkyl esters or ethers of sorbitan, glycerol, polyol or sugars.

[0119] Examples of alkylated polyol esters include polyethylene glycol esters such as PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxy stearate, such as the product marketed under the name Arlacel P135® by the company ICI.

[0120] Examples of glycerol and / or sorbitan esters include polyglycerol isostearate, such as the product marketed under the name Isolan GI 34® by Goldschmidt; sorbitan isostearate, such as the product marketed under the name Arlacel 987® by ICI; sorbitan isostearate and glycerol, such as the product marketed under the name Arlacel 986® by ICI, and mixtures thereof.

[0121] For O / W emulsions, examples of non-ionic emulsifying surfactants include polyoxyalkylated fatty acid and glycerol esters (more particularly polyoxyethylated and / or polyoxypropylated) such as polyethylene glycol and stearic acid ester with INCI name PEG-100 STEARATE marketed under the name Myrj SIOO-PA-(SG) by the company CRODA; oxyalkylated fatty acid and sorbitan esters; polyoxyalkylated fatty acid esters (in particular polyoxyethylated and / or polyoxypropylated) possibly in combination with a fatty acid and glycerol ester such as the PEG-100 Stearate / Glyceryl Stearate mixture marketed for example by the company ICI under the name Arlacel 165; oxyalkylated fatty alcohol ethers (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated); sugar esters such as sucrose stearate; fatty alcohol and sugar ethers,including alkyl polyglucosides (APGs) such as C12-C20 alkyl glucosides such as the one marketed by Seppic under the name Montanov L, de-cylglucoside and laurylglucoside marketed for example by Henkel under the respective names Plantaren 2000® and Plantaren 1200®, ketostea-rylglucoside possibly in mixture with cetostearyl alcohol, marketed for example under the name Montanov 68® by Seppic, under the name Tegocare CG90® by Goldschmidt and under the name Emulgade KE3302® by Henkel, as well as arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of the mixture of arachidic and behenic alcohols and arachidylglucoside marketed under the name Montanov 202® by Seppic. According to a particular embodiment of the invention,The mixture of the alkylpolyglucoside as defined above with the corresponding fatty alcohol can be in the form of a self-emulsifying composition, as described for example in document WO-A-92 / 06778.

[0122] As anionic surfactants for producing oil-in-water emulsions, one can cite the surfactants chosen from among the amino acids modified by at least one hydrocarbon chain in C8-C30, preferably in C8-C24, and their salts, in particular acyl glutamic acids (INCI name: acyl glutamic acid) or one of their salts (acyl glutamates), such as stearoyl glutamic acid or one of its salts, in particular sodium stearoyl glutamate (INCI name).

[0123] Such compounds are marketed under the name AMISOFT by the company AJINOMOTO and in particular under the references Amisoft CA, Amisoft LA, Amisoft HS 11 PF, Amisoft MK-11, Amisoft LK-11, Amisoft CK-11, or under the name EUMULGIN SG by the company COGNIS.

[0124] As anionic surfactants for making H / W emulsions, we can also mention hydrophobic modified polysaccharides, in particular inulins modified by hydrophobic chains such as alkylcarbamate groups, in particular alkyl C8-C18 carbamate, and more particularly laurylcarbamate.

[0125] As an example of these compounds, we can notably cite the product sold under the name INUTEC SL1 by the company CREACHEM.

[0126] Non-ionic alkylpolyglycoside surfactants

[0127] According to a first particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more non-ionic surfactants of the alkylpolyglycoside type.

[0128] The non-ionic alkylpolyglycoside surfactants usable according to the invention are selected from compounds of the following general formula: RiO-(R2O)t-(G)v in which: - Ri represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising 6 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical comprises 6 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms; - R2 represents an alkylene radical with 2 to 4 carbon atoms; - G represents a sugar motif containing 5 to 6 carbon atoms; -1 denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10, preferably from 0 to 4; - v denotes a value from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4.

[0129] Preferably, the non-ionic alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactants are compounds of the formula described above in which: - Ri designates a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical comprising 8 to 18 carbon atoms, - R2 represents an alkylene radical with 2 to 4 carbon atoms, -1 denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3, preferably equal to 0, - G designates glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose; - the degree of polymerization, i.e. the value of v, which can range from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4; the average degree of polymerization being more particularly between 1 and 2, and even better from 1.1 to 1.5 on average.

[0130] The glycosidic bonds between the sugar motifs are generally of type 1-6 or 1-4, preferably of type 1-4.

[0131] Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside is an alkyl(poly)glucoside.

[0132] Preferably, non-ionic surfactants are selected from (C6-C24 alkyl)polyglycosides, such as coco glucoside, caprylyl / capryl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, decyl glucoside and cetearyl glucoside, and mixtures thereof.

[0133] Preferably, the composition comprises one or more non-ionic surfactants selected from (alkyl C6-C24)(poly)glycosides, alone or in mixture, and more particularly (alkyl C8-Ci8)(poly)glycosides.

[0134] Among the commercial products, we can mention the products sold by the company COGNIS under the names PLANTAREN® (600 CS / U, 1200 and 2000) or PLANTACARE® (818, 1200 and 2000); the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the names ORAMIX CG 110 and ORAMIX® NS 10; the products sold by BASF under the name LUTENSOL GD 70, the products sold by CHEM Y under the name AGIO LK, the products sold by EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT under the trade names TEGO CARE CG 90 or TEGO CARE CG 90 MB, the products sold by SEPPIC under the trade names Montanov® L, Montanov® 68, Montanov® 68 MB, Montanov® 14 or Montanov® 202, or the products sold by BASF under the name Emulgade® PL 68 / 50.

[0135] Preferably, the total content of the alkylpolyglycoside type non-ionic surfactant(s) varies from 0.01 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 8% by weight, better from 0.3 to 6% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.3 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0136] Fatty acid and polyol ester and anionic carboxyl or carboxylate surfactant

[0137] According to a second particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises: - at least one C2-C24 fatty acid ester and C2-C24 polyol, preferably at least one C6-C8 fatty acid ester and glycerol; and - at least one anionic carboxylic or carboxylate surfactant chosen from amino acids modified by at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon chain, preferably C8-C24, and their salts.

[0138] The fatty acid in Ci2-C24 for the fatty acid and polyol ester, preferably the fatty acid and glycerol ester, may be a saturated or unsaturated acid, for example stearic acid, oleic acid, palmitic acid.

[0139] For the purposes of this invention, "polyol" means any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.

[0140] The polyol for the fatty acid and polyol ester may be an alkyl-type compound, linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, bearing on the alkyl chain at least two -OH functions, and in particular at least three -OH functions.

[0141] Polyols advantageously suitable for the fatty acid and polyol ester are those having, preferably, 3 to 16 carbon atoms.

[0142] Advantageously, the polyol can be selected, for example, from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, 1,3 propanediol, butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, poly-glycerin-3, glycerin and mixtures thereof.

[0143] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, said polyol is selected from 1,3-propanediol, polyglycerin-3, glycerin, pentylene glycol, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, it is glycerin.

[0144] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one ester of fatty acid in Ci2-C24 and glycerol.

[0145] Examples of Ci2-C24 fatty acid esters and glycerol include glyceryl laurate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

[0146] Examples of marketed products include glyceryl stearate such as the product sold under the name Tegin MO by Evonik Goldschmidt, and glyceryl laurate such as the product sold under the name Imwitor 3120 by Hiils.

[0147] Monoglyceride stearates (INCI name: GLYCERYL STEARATE) can also be used, for example those marketed under the name DIMODAN HP by the company DANISCO, or those marketed under the name TEGIN 90 by the company EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT.

[0148] Preferably, the ester of fatty acid in Ci2-C24 and glycerol is glyceryl stearate.

[0149] Advantageously, the C2-C24 fatty acid ester(s) and C2-C24 polyol ester(s) are present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 2% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.2% to 0.8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0150] The term “hydrocarbon chain” means an organic group consisting predominantly of hydrogen and carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, in which one or more carbon atoms may be replaced by an oxygen or nitrogen atom. Examples of C8-C30 hydrocarbon chains include C8-C30 acyl radicals.

[0151] Examples of amino acids include alanine, arginine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, glycine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, pheny- lalanine, serine, tyrosine, valine, sarcosine.

[0152] Plus spécifiquement, on peut citer, à titre de tensioactifs anioniques carboxylates choisis parmi les sels d’acides aminés modifiés par au moins une chaîne grasse, les composés suivants : dipotassium capryloyl glutamate, dipotassium undecylenoyl glutamate, disodium capryloyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, disodium lauroyl glutamate, disodium stearoyl glutamate, disodium undecylenoyl glutamate, potassium capryloyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium myristoyl glutamate, potassium stearoyl glutamate, potassium undecylenoyl glutamate, sodium capryloyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium myristoyl glutamate, sodium olivoyl glutamate, sodium palmitoyl glutamate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium undecylenoyl glutamate, cocoyl methyl [3-alaninate, lauroyl [3-alaninate, lauroyl methyl [3-alaninate, myristoyl [3-alaninate, potassium lauroyl methyl [3-alaninate, sodium cocoyl alaninate,sodium cocoyl methyl [3-alaninate and sodium myristoyl methyl [3-alaninate palmitoyl glycinate, sodium lauroyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium myristoyl glycinate, potassium lauroyl glycinate, potassium cocoyl glycinate, potassium lauroyl sarcosinate, potassium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate, sodium oleoyl sarcosinate, sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate ammonium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl aspartate, sodium myristoyl aspartate, sodium cocoyl aspartate, sodium caproyl aspartate, disodium lauroyl aspartate, disodium myristoyl aspartate, disodium cocoyl aspartate, disodium caproyl aspartate, potassium lauroyl aspartate, potassium myristoyl aspartate, potassium cocoyl aspartate, potassium caproyl aspartate, dipotassium lauroyl aspartate, dipotassium myristoyl aspartate, dipotassium cocoyl aspartate, dipotassium caproyl aspartate, et leurs mélanges. ,

[0153] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the anionic carboxylic or carboxylate surfactant(s) are chosen from compounds of the following structure: [chem 2] O , (CH2)n COOM z^ ''N y" XY in which: Z represents a hydrocarbon group comprising 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 22 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched; X is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group; n is equal to 0 or 1; Y is a group chosen from a hydrogen atom, a group -CH3, -CH(CH3)2, -CH2CH(CH3)2, -CH(CH3)CH2CH3, -ch2c6h5, -ch2c2h4oh, -ch2oh, -CH(OH)CH3, -(CH2)4NH2, -(CH2)3NHC(NH)NH2, -CH2C(O)O M+, -(CH2)2C(O)OH, -(CH2)2C(O)O M+; and M is a hydrogen atom or a cation such as sodium, potassium, ammonium, triethanolamine.

[0154] According to a preferred embodiment, in formula 2: Z represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl group at C8-C22; X is a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; n is equal to 0; Y is a hydrogen atom, a -(CH2)2C(O)OH group, or a -(CH2)2C(O)O M+ group; and M is a cation such as sodium, potassium, ammonium, triethanolamine.

[0155] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one acyl glutamic acid (INCI name: acyl glutamic acid) or one of its salts (acyl glutamates).

[0156] Preferably, the acyl glutamic acid(s) are chosen from among acyl glutamic acids whose acyl group comprises from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and even more preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, lauroyl glutamic acid, myristoyl glutamic acid, palmitoyl glutamic acid, stearoyl glutamic acid, behenoyl glutamic acid, olivoyl glutamic acid, cocoyl glutamic acid and the salts of these acids, in particular alkali metal salts such as Na, Li, K, preferably Na or K, alkaline earth metal salts such as Mg or ammonium salts of said acids.

[0157] Preferably, as amino acid salts modified by at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon chain, glutamate salts may be cited, and in particular dipotassium capryloyl glutamate, dipotassium undecylenoyl glutamate, disodium capryloyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, disodium lauroyl glutamate, disodium stearoyl glutamate, disodium undecylenoyl glutamate, potassium capryloyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium myristoyl glutamate, potassium stearoyl glutamate, potassium undecylenoyl glutamate, sodium capryloyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium myristoyl glutamate, sodium olivoyl glutamate, sodium palmitoyl glutamate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium undecylenoyl glutamate.

[0158] Preferably, the acyl glutamic acid(s) or one of its salts are selected from lauroyl glutamic acid(s), cocoyl glutamic acid(s), sodium stearoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, sodium olivoyl glutamate and mixtures thereof.

[0159] More preferably, acyl glutamic acid or one of its salts is sodium stearoyl glutamate (INCI name).

[0160] Such compounds are marketed under the name AMISOFT by the company AJINOMOTO and in particular under the references Amisoft CA, Amisoft LA, Amisoft HS 11 PF, Amisoft MK-11, Amisoft LK-11, Amisoft CK-11, or under the name EUMULGIN SG by the company COGNIS.

[0161] We can also mention triethanolamine cocoyl glutamate marketed under the name AMISOFT CT 12 by the company AJINOMOTO and triethanolamine lauroyl glutamate marketed under the name ACYLGLUTAMATE LT-12 by the company AJINOMOTO.

[0162] As salts of acyl glutamic acid, we can also mention sodium hydrogenated tallowoyl glutamate such as that marketed under the reference ACYLGLUTAMATE HS 11 by the company AJINOMOTO and disodium hydrogenated tallow glutamate such as that marketed under the reference ACYLGLUTAMATE HS-21 by the company AJINOMOTO.

[0163] We can also mention commercial mixtures of surfactants comprising at least one derivative of glutamic acid or a salt of said derivative such as, for example, the mixture of acyl glutamates salts such as Amisoft LS-22 marketed by AJINOMOTO.

[0164] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the mono-sodium salt of n-stearoyl-L-glutamic acid (INCI name: sodium stearoyl glutamate) is used, such as that marketed by the company AJINOMOTO under the reference AMISOFT HS 11 PF.

[0165] The amino acid(s) modified by at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon chain and their salts may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 1% by weight, better from 0.1% to 0.8% by weight, and even better from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. C12-C24 saturated fatty alcohols

[0166] The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one fatty alcohol saturated with Ci2-C24.

[0167] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the C[2-C24] saturated fatty alcohols are linear. Preferably, the fatty alcohols comprise from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0168] The fatty alcohol(s) usable within the framework of the present invention may They may be chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, lauric alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, pentadecyl alcohol, hexadecyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol. Preferably, they may be chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and cetearyl alcohol.

[0169] As cetyl alcohol particularly suitable for the invention, one can for example use those sold under the names ECOROL® 16 / 98 F and ECOROL® 16 / 98 P by Ecogreen Oleochemicals, TEGOALKANOL® 16 by Evonik Goldschmidt, LANETTE® 16 by Cognis, VEGAROL® 1698 by WF, ALKONAT® 1698 P by Oxiteno, CETYL ALCOHOL 98% MIN by Emery Oleochemicals, GINOL® 16 (98%) by Godrej Industries, NACOL® 16-98 by Sasol, KALCOL® 6098 by Kao and ACILOL® 16 by Aegis Chemical.

[0170] As stearyl alcohol particularly suitable for the invention, one can for example use those sold under the names TEGOALKANOL® 18 by Evonik Goldschmidt, ECOROL® 18 / 98 F and ECOROL® 18 / 98 P by Ecogreen Oleochemicals, LANETTE® 18 by Cognis, KALCOL® 8098 by Kao, ACILOL® 18 by Aegis Chemical, NACOL® 18-98 by Sasol and NAA® 45 by Nihon Yushi.

[0171] As cetyl stearyl alcohol particularly suitable for the invention, examples may be used, for example, those sold under the names ECOROL® 68 / 50 F and ECOROL® 68 / 50 P by Ecogreen Oleochemicals, LANETTE® O OR and LANETTE® O OR FLAKES by Cognis, ALKONAT® 1618 C50 P by Oxiteno, NAFOL® 16-18 EN by Sasol, ALCOHOL CETOES-TEARILICO 50 / 50 by Industria Quimica Del Centre, CONOL® 30 CK by New Japan Chemical, CETYL STEARYL ALCOHOL 50:50 by Evonik Goldschmidt, KALCOL® 6850 by Kao, VEGAROL® 1618 (50:50) by WF and GINOL® 1618 50:50 OR by Godrej Industries.

[0172] As a behenic alcohol particularly suitable for the invention, one can for example use those sold under the name LANETTE 22 by the company BASF.

[0173] The composition according to the invention has an alpha-gel structure, that is to say it has a lamellar phase, due to the presence of a surfactant and a C12-C24-saturated fatty alcohol.

[0174] Advantageously, the C12-C24 saturated fatty alcohol(s) are present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.2% to 3% by weight, and even more preferably ranging from 0.5% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Waxes

[0175] The composition according to the invention may also include at least one wax.

[0176] For the purposes of this invention, wax is defined as a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25 °C), deformable or not, with a reversible solid / liquid phase change, and having a melting point greater than or equal to 30 °C, up to and including 120 °C. In particular, waxes suitable for the invention may have a melting point greater than or equal to 60 °C, and in particular greater than or equal to 70 °C.

[0177] By lipophilic compound is meant a compound having an acid number and a hydroxyl number of less than 150 mg KOH / g.

[0178] For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by TA Instruments or the calorimeter marketed under the name "DSC Q100" by TA Instruments with the "TA Universal Analysis" software.

[0179] The measurement protocol is as follows.

[0180] A 5 mg sample of wax placed in a crucible is first heated from -20 °C to 100 °C at a rate of 10 °C / minute, then cooled from 100 °C to -20 °C at a rate of 10 °C / minute, and finally heated a second time from -20 °C to 100 °C at a rate of 5 °C / minute. During the second heating, the change in the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the wax sample is measured as a function of temperature. The melting point of the compound is the temperature value corresponding to the peak of the curve representing the change in the difference in power absorbed as a function of temperature.

[0181] Waxes may be hydrocarbon, silicone and / or fluorinated and be of vegetable, animal, mineral and / or synthetic origin.

[0182] The wax(s) may be present in each composition in a content ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 3%, and better from 0.2% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0183] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one wax of vegetable origin.

[0184] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one jojoba ester wax. Jojoba ester wax can be in an unsaturated form of jojoba esters, which can be fully hydrogenated jojoba ester of the following formula: [chem 3] R^COO-CHi-R1 in which: R1 is a CH3-(CH2)y group, y is equal to 16, 18, 20 or 22. Jojoba ester wax can be obtained by hydrogenation of jojoba wax ester (jojoba oil) of the following formula: [chem 4] Ô H (oy? * œ ai - cw - * c * o- Wr ch w - in which x and y are equal to 6, 8, 10 or 12.

[0185] Jojoba wax esters are composed of straight-chain monounsaturated fatty alcohols and monounsaturated fatty acids. The only double bond is located in the middle (position n-9), counting from the terminal methyl group (-CH3) of the respective fatty acid or alcohol chain.

[0186] Such wax esters are composed of fatty alcohols and fatty acids with an even number of carbon atoms, primarily 20 and 22 carbon atoms. The resulting material comprises esters having chain lengths of 38, 40, 42, and 44 carbon atoms, with a small amount of 36- and 46-carbon esters also present. The typical composition of the wax esters is shown below. [Table 1] Ester waxes (X, Y) Typical chain length % (area per GPC) (6, 6) 36 1 (6, 8) (8, 6) 38 8 (6, 10) (8, 8) (10, 6) 40 39 (10, 8) (8, 10) 42 38 (10, 10) 44 13 (12, 10) (10, 12) 46 1

[0187] Jojoba wax ester can be derived from the seed of the jojoba plant (Simmondsia chinensis).

[0188] Examples of jojoba ester wax include the product marketed under the name Floraesters® 70 by International Flora Technologies Ltd, and the product sold under the name Jojoba Esters-70 by Vantage.

[0189] Advantageously, jojoba ester wax is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 0.8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0190] According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one additional hydrocarbon wax in addition to the jojoba ester mentioned above.

[0191] Examples may be cited as hydrocarbon-based waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax or Chinese insect wax, rice wax, camauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, alfa grass wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax, Berry wax, shellac wax and sumac wax, Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax, montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, polymethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, as well as their esters, may be used in particular.

[0192] Examples include beeswax, for example the product sold under the name White Beeswax BR G889 by Koster Keunen, camauba wax, for example marketed under the name Cerauba Tl Bio by the company Baerlocher, helianthus annuus (sunflower) wax marketed under the name Sunflower Wax by the company Koster Keunen, or a mixture of these.

[0193] Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax.

[0194] If present, the additional hydrocarbon wax is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0195] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises a mixture of glyceryl stearate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, cetearyl alcohol, jojoba esters, and sunflower seed wax with the INCI name CETEARYL ALCOHOL (and) JOJOBA ESTERS (and) GLYCERYL STEARATE (and) SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) HELIANTHUS ANNUUS SEED CERA (and) POLYGLYCERIN-3, marketed under the name EMULIUM® DOLCEA MB by the company GATTEFOSSE.

[0196] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition is an oil-in-water emulsion and comprises: - at least one UV filter; - at least one lipophilic acrylic polymer as defined above; - at least one scleroglucan gum; - at least one fatty alcohol saturated with Ci2-C24; - at least one non-ionic surfactant of the alkylpolyglycoside type.

[0197] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition is an oil-in-water emulsion and comprises: - at least one UV filter; - at least one lipophilic acrylic polymer as defined above; - at least one scleroglucan gum; - at least one fatty alcohol saturated with Ci2-C24; - at least one ester of fatty acid in C12-C24 and glycerol; - at least one anionic carboxylic or carboxylate surfactant selected from amino acids modified by at least one C8-C24 hydrocarbon chain and their salts; and - at least one wax.

[0198] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition is an oil-in-water emulsion and comprises: - at least one UV filter; - at least one lipophilic acrylic polymer as defined above; - at least one scleroglucan gum; - at least one fatty alcohol saturated with Ci2-C24; - at least one ester of fatty acid in C12-C24 and glycerol; - at least one anionic carboxylic or carboxylate surfactant selected from amino acids modified by at least one C8-C24 hydrocarbon chain and their salts; and - at least one jojoba ester wax.

[0199] Preferably, the composition comprises: - at least one UV filter; - at least one lipophilic acrylic polymer as defined above; - at least one scleroglucan gum; - at least one fatty alcohol saturated with Ci2-C24; - at least one C[2-C24] fatty acid ester and glycerol; - at least one acyl glutamic acid (INCI name: acyl glutamic acid) or one of its salts (acyl glutamates), the acyl group being in the C10-C30 position, preferably in the C2-C22 position; and - at least one jojoba ester wax.

[0200] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the composition is an oil-in-water emulsion and comprises: - at least one UV filter; - at least one lipophilic acrylic polymer as defined above; - at least one scleroglucan gum; - at least one fatty alcohol saturated with Ci2-C24; - at least one ester of fatty acid in C12-C24 and glycerol; - at least one anionic carboxylic or carboxylate surfactant chosen from amino acids modified by at least one C8-C24 hydrocarbon chain and their salts; - at least one jojoba ester wax; and - at least one seed wax of helianthus annuus (sunflower).

[0201] Preferably, the composition comprises: - at least one UV filter; - at least one lipophilic acrylic polymer as defined above; - at least one scleroglucan gum; - at least one fatty alcohol saturated with Ci2-C24; - at least one ester of fatty acid in C12-C24 and glycerol; - at least one acyl glutamic acid (INCI name: acyl glutamic acid) or one of its salts (acyl glutamates), the acyl group being at C10-C30, preferably at Ci2-C22; - at least one jojoba ester wax; and - at least one seed wax of helianthus annuus (sunflower).

[0202] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a fluid skincare composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: (i) at least one UV filter; (ii) from 0.05% to 10% by weight of a lipophilic acrylic polymer comprising monomeric units of formulas (A) and (B): [chem 1] in which: RI, independently of each other, is chosen from among the alkyl or alkenyl radicals, and at least 60% by weight of the RI groups are radicals chosen from among the stearyl and behenyl radicals, the percentage by weight referring to the sum of all the RI groups present in the polymer, And the weight ratio of the sum of all hydroxyethyl acrylate units to the sum of all acrylate units bearing the RI group ranges from 1:30 to 1:1, and the sum of the total of units A and B is at least 95% by weight of the total weight of the polymer; (iii) at least one scleroglucan gum; (iv) from 0.2% by weight to 0.8% by weight of at least one jojoba ester wax of formula 3: [chem 3] iV-œo-CHrf where R1 is CH3- (CH2)y-, y is 16, 18, 20 or 22; (v) from 0.5% by weight to 2% by weight of at least one saturated fatty alcohol in Ci2-C24 chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol; (vi) from 0.2% by weight to 0.8% by weight of at least one C12-C24 fatty acid ester of glycerol selected from glyceryl laurate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl palmitate and a mixture thereof; and (vii) from 0.1% by weight to 0.5% by weight of at least one surfactant chosen from among acyl glutamic acids (INCI name: acyl glutamic acid) and their salts (acyl glutamates), the acyl group being in C10-C30, preferably in C12-C22, even more preferably it is the stearoyl radical. Fatty phase

[0203] The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one fatty phase.

[0204] The oily phase may consist of any oily substances commonly used in cosmetics or dermatology; it includes, in particular, the wax(s) defined above and may include at least one oil. The oily phase also includes the lipophilic filter(s) and the fatty alcohol(s) present in the composition according to the invention.

[0205] The term "oil" refers to any fatty substance in liquid form at ambient temperature (20-25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). These oils may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0206] For the purposes of this invention, "volatile oil" means an oil capable of evaporating upon contact with the skin or keratin fiber in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil(s) of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils, liquid at ambient temperature, having a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (103 to 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg).

[0207] By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the skin or keratin fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and having in particular a vapor pressure of less than 103 mm Hg (0.13 Pa).

[0208] For the purposes of this invention, "hydrocarbon oil" means any oil consisting mainly of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally one or more heteroatoms, in particular nitrogen and oxygen. Thus, these oils may notably contain one or more ester, ether, fluorine, carboxylic acid and / or alcohol groups.

[0209] The term “siliconized oil” means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0210] Examples of non-volatile hydrocarbon oils that can be used according to the invention include: (i) vegetable hydrocarbon oils such as glyceride triesters, which are generally fatty acid and glycerol triesters, the fatty acids of which may have varying chain lengths from C4 to C24, the latter being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; These oils include wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea butter, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, sesame oil, squash oil, rapeseed oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, rosehip oil; or caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by Stéa-rineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by Dynamit Nobel; (ii) synthetic ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms; (iii) linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as paream, squalane, and mixtures thereof; (iv) Synthetic esters such as oils of the formula RCOOR' in which R represents the remainder of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain, particularly a branched one, containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that R + R' is > 10, such as, for example, Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoates such as the product sold under the trade names "Finsolv TN®" or "Witconol TN®" by WITCO or "TEGOSOFT TN®" by EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT, 2-Ethylphenyl benzoate such as the commercial product sold under the name "X-TEND 226®" by ISP, lanolate isopropyl, hexyl laurate, dii- adipate isopropyl, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate such as the product sold under the name "Dub Dis" by the company Stearinerie Dubois, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, di-isostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; citrates or tartrates such as linear C12-C13 dialkyl tartrates like those sold under the name COSMACOL ETI® by ENICHEM AUGUSTA INDUSTRIALE and linear C14-C15 dialkyl tartrates like those sold under the name COSMACOL ETL® by the same company; acetates; (v) fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature with a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain having 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as octyl dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol; (vi) carbonates such as dicaprylyl carbonate such as the product sold under the name “Cetiol CC®” by the company Cognis; and their mixtures.

[0211] Among the non-volatile hydrocarbon oils usable according to the invention, glyceride triesters, and in particular caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, synthetic esters, and in particular diisopropyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate, and fatty alcohols, in particular octyldodecanol, are preferred. Preferably, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oils are chosen from diisopropyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl palmitate, and dicaprylyl carbonate.

[0212] Examples of usable volatile hydrocarbon oils according to the invention include hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular C8-C16 branched alkanes such as petroleum-derived C8-C16 isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls, C8-C16 branched esters, isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.

[0213] We can also mention the alkanes described in Cognis patent applications WO 2007 / 068371 and WO 2008 / 155059 (mixtures of distinct alkanes differing by at least one carbon atom). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, themselves obtained from coconut or palm oil. Examples include the mixtures of n-undecane (Cl 1) and n-tridecane (Cl 3) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of Cognis application WO 2008 / 155059. We can also mention n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97® respectively, as well as their mixtures.

[0214] Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, particularly those sold under the name Shell Soit® by the Shell company, may also be used. In one embodiment, the volatile solvent is selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof.

[0215] Non-volatile silicone oils may be selected in particular from non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes having alkyl or alkoxy groups, during and / or at the end of the silicone chain, each group having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxy silicas.

[0216] Examples of volatile silicone oils include, for instance, volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, particularly those with a viscosity < 8 centistokes (8 x 10⁶ m² / s), and having, in particular, 2 to 7 silicon atoms. These silicones may optionally contain alkyl or alkoxy groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Examples of volatile silicone oils usable in the invention include, in particular, octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

[0217] We can also mention volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oils such as: 3-butyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane, 3-propyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane, and 3-ethyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane.

[0218] Fluorinated volatile oils, such as nonafluoromethoxybutane, nonafluoromethoxybutane, decafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane, dodecafluoropentane and mixtures thereof, may also be used.

[0219] The oily phase according to the invention may further comprise, mixed with or solubilized in the oil, other fatty substances.

[0220] Another fatty substance that may be present in the oil phase may be, for example: - a fatty acid such as fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms different from fatty chain amino acids as defined above, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid; preferably higher C12-C22 fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid; - a gum chosen from among the silicone gums (dimethiconol), - a paste compound, such as polymeric or non-polymer silicone compounds, esters of an oligomeric glycerol, arachidyl propionate, fatty acid triglycerides and their derivatives, - and mixtures thereof.

[0221] Preferably, the overall fatty phase, including all lipophilic substances of the composition capable of being solubilized in this same phase, including lipophilic filters, represents from 5 to 95% by weight, and preferably from 10 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Aqueous phase

[0222] The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one aqueous phase.

[0223] The aqueous phase contains water, and possibly other organic solvents soluble or miscible in water.

[0224] An aqueous phase suitable for the invention may include, for example, water selected from a natural spring water, such as La Roche-Posay water, Vittel water, Saint Gervais Mont Blanc water, or Vichy waters, or a floral water.

[0225] Water-soluble or miscible solvents suitable for the invention include short-chain monoalcohols, for example C1-C4 such as ethanol and isopropanol, diols or polyols such as ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether, glycerol, and sorbitol, and mixtures thereof.

[0226] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises an amount of glycerin less than 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

[0227] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the overall aqueous phase, including all hydrophilic substances of the composition capable of being solubilized in this same phase, represents from 5 to 95% by weight, and preferably from 10 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0228] According to a particular embodiment, the pH of the composition according to the invention is greater than or equal to 6.

[0229] According to a preferred embodiment, the pH of the composition according to the invention is between 6.0 and 11.0. Preferably, the pH of the composition according to the invention is between 6.0 and 9.0. Even more preferably, the pH of the composition according to the invention is between 6.0 and 7.8.

[0230] The pH measurement of the composition according to the invention can be carried out using a Mettler Toledo MPC227, SevenEasy pH or SevenGo SG2 pH meter, at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure. Active cosmetic ingredients

[0231] The composition of the present invention may include at least one cosmetic active ingredient.

[0232] Examples of cosmetic actives include moisturizing agents such as protein hydrolysates, polyglycerin-3; natural extracts; vitamins and their derivatives (in particular esters), and mixtures thereof; urea; caffeine; salicylic acid and its derivatives; alpha-hydroxy acids and their derivatives; retinoids; extracts of algae, fungi, plants, yeasts and bacteria; enzymes; tightening agents; agents acting on microcirculation, and mixtures thereof.

[0233] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one moisturizing agent. Preferably, this is polyglycerin-3.

[0234] It is easy for a person skilled in the art to adjust the quantity of cosmetic active ingredient according to the end use of the composition according to the present invention. Additional adjuvants or additives

[0235] The composition of the present invention may also include conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, for example perfumes, chelating agents (for example, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate and disodium EDTA), preservatives (for example, chlorphenesin and phenoxyethanol) and bactericides, additional surfactants, co-emulsifiers and / or thickeners (such as an acryloyldimethyltaurate homopolymer or a sodium acrylamide / acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer, an acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer copolymer, hydroxypropylguar), pH regulators (for example, triethanolamine, citric acid and sodium hydroxide), fillers (for example, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate and polymethylsesquioxane) and mixtures thereof.

[0236] A person skilled in the art can select the quantity of additional adjuvants or additives so as not to impair the final use of the composition according to the present invention. Examples

[0237] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting. In these examples, the quantities of the ingredients in the compositions are given as a percentage by weight of raw materials or active ingredients relative to the total weight of the composition. Protocol for evaluating filter efficiency

[0238] In-vitro: The sun protection factor (SPF) is determined according to the "in-vitro" method vitro » described by M. Pissavini et al in International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 40, 263-268 (2018), based on initial absorbance. The in vitro UVA protection factor (UVAPF) of a sun protection product against UVA radiation is calculated mathematically by in vitro spectral modelling according to the ISO 24443: 2012 (Fr) protocol. Each composition is applied to six rough PMMA plates as a homogeneous and even deposit at a rate of 1 mg / cm². The application of each composition is carried out using an automated robot that makes regular and uniform movements on three HD6 plates (molded granular plates) and three SB6 plates (sandblasted granular plates). The plate is weighed before and after application. Once all six plates are applied, they are placed in Thermo-Master chambers in the dark at 25°C for 30 minutes. Measurements are performed using the Labsphère UV-1000S spectrophotometer. Nine measurements are taken per plate, and the data is then analyzed using an Excel spreadsheet, which provides the SPF and PPD values ​​for the measured composition. Viscosity evaluation protocol

[0239] Viscosity is evaluated using a Rheomat RM200 viscometer (Lamy) at 25 °C. Due to the fluid texture of the formula, an MsR-2 spindle is used. The viscometer is calibrated, the spindle is then inserted into the product and rotated at 200 rpm for 10 minutes. The viscosity measurement is taken after 10 minutes.

[0240] Protocol for evaluating the stability of the compositions of the invention

[0241] Each composition is placed in an oven at 55 °C for one week in 30 ml bottles. After one week, we remove the compositions and analyze their appearance macroscopically and microscopically. Example 5 - Compositions 1 to 4

[0242] The following compositions are prepared (quantities in raw materials). [Tables 2] Phase Composition 1 2 3 4 Al WATER 36,2 36,2 36 36,2 Al TRISODIUM ETHYLENEDIAMINE DISUCCINATE 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3 Al HYDROXYACETOPHENONE 0,5 0,5 0,5 0,5 Al CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0,5 0,5 0,5 0,5 Al PROPANEDIOL 3 3 3 3 Al CETEARYL ALCOHOL (and) JOJOBA ESTERS (and) GLYCERYL STEARATE (and) SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) HE-LIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED WAX (and) POLYGLYCERIN-3 1,5 1,5 1,5 Al SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE 0,5 0,5 0,5 0,5 Al GLYCERIN 7 7 7 7 A2 SODIUM STARCH OCTENYL-SUCCINATE (and) HY-DROXYPROPYL STARCH PHOSPHATE 0,5 0,5 0,5 0,5 A2 SCLEROTIUM GUM 0,5 0,5 - 0,5 A2 XANTHAN GUM - - 0,7 - B1 OCTOCRYLENE 7 7 7 7 B1 ETHYLHEXYL SALICYLATE 5 5 5 5 B1 BUTYL METHOXYDIBEN-ZOYLMETHANE 3 3 3 3 B1 HOMOSALATE 7 7 7 7 B1 C14-22 ALCOHOLS (and) C12-20 ALKYL GLUCOSIDE - - - 1,5 B1 C12-22 ALKYL ACRYLATE / HYDROXYETHYLACRYLATE 1,5 - 1,5 1,5 COPOLYMER (Tego SP Senstar de EVONIK) B1 SYNTHETIC WAX - 1,5 - - B1 C15-19 ALKANE 5 5 5 5 B1 TOCOPHEROL 1 1 1 1 C WATER 20 20 20 20 Preparation method

[0243] Weigh the different phases separately. Heat phase A1 to 80 °C, then heat phase B1 to 80 °C. Once both phases have reached 80 °C, add the gelling agents. Place phase A1 in the beaker under the turbine of the ultra-turax and set the turbine to position 4 (machine speed range 3,000 to 25,000 RPM). Continue mixing until the gelling agents are completely dispersed. Emulsify the mixture by adding phase B1, still under turbine speed 4, to phase A1 until the formula is homogeneous. Reduce the speed to 2 and quickly add phase C. Stop the turbine immediately after adding the phase B1. Complete the cooling of the formula to 25 °C under a deflocculator in a cold water and ice bath. Results obtained

[0244] The results obtained are as follows. [Tables 3] Composition 1 (invention) 2 (comparative) Macroscopic appearance at time t = 0 and temperature T = 25 °C Fluid cream Fluid cream Viscosity (rnPa.s) at 10 minutes 483 280 SPF in vitro 53.0 ±2.8 23.3 ± 0.9 Stability 1 week at 55 °C Macroscopy: Appearance, color, odor: Fluid, white, glossy, unscented cream Microscopy: Fine, homogeneous, isotropic, moderately dense emulsion. Macroscopy: Appearance, color, odor: Fluid, white, glossy, unscented cream Microscopy: Fine, homogeneous, isotropic, moderately dense emulsion. [Tables 4] Composition 3 (comparative) 4 (invention) Macroscopic appearance: Fluid cream Fluid cream Viscosity (mPa.s) at 30 seconds and then at 10 minutes: 509 479 SPF in vitro: 40.9 ±1.8 54.0 ± 2.3 Stability: 1 week at 55°C Macroscopy: Appearance, color, odor: Fluid, white, glossy, unscented cream Microscopy: Fine, homogeneous, isotropic, moderately dense emulsion. Macroscopy: Appearance, color, odor: Fluid, white, glossy, unscented cream Microscopy: Fine, homogeneous, isotropic, moderately dense emulsion.

[0245] These results show that compositions 1 and 4 according to the invention lead to better sun protection than comparative composition 2 in which the semi-crystalline polymer has been replaced by a synthetic wax, and comparative composition 3 in which scleroglucan gum has been replaced by xanthan gum, while maintaining good stability.

Claims

Claims

1. Composition, in particular cosmetic or dermatological, comprising: - at least one UV filter; - at least one semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain; and - at least one scleroglucan gum.

2. Composition according to claim 1 in the form of an emulsion, preferably in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.

3. Composition according to any one of claims 1 and 2 in which the UV filter(s) are chosen from organic UV filters such as water-soluble organic UV filters, liposoluble organic UV filters and insoluble organic UV filters, inorganic UV filters, and mixtures thereof, preferably the UV filter(s) are chosen from organic UV filters.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3 in which the UV filter(s) are chosen from liposoluble organic UV filters; preferably chosen from dibenzoylmethane compounds, salicylic compounds, [3, [3-diphenylacrylate] compounds, benzophenone compounds, phenyl benzotriazole compounds, triazine compounds and mixtures thereof; and more preferably from homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, drometrizole trisiloxane, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, octocrylene, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl triazone, n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)-benzoate, die-thylhexyl butamido triazone, and mixtures thereof.

5. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4 comprising Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5 in which the quantity of the UV filter(s) ranges from 0.1% to 60% by weight, preferably from 1% to 40% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 30% by weight, and better still from 10% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6 in which the semi-crystalline polymer(s) containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain are chosen from homopolymers obtained by polymerization of a monomer chosen from alkyl acrylates and alkyl methacrylates and from copolymers obtained by copoly- merization of a monomer chosen from alkyl acrylates and alkyl methacrylates, with a hydrophilic monomer, preferably a hydroxyethyl (meth)acrylate, and mixtures thereof.

8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7 in which the semi-crystalline polymer(s) containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain are chosen from a polystearyl acrylate, a polybehenyl acrylate, a copolymer of behenyl acrylate / 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, a copolymer of stearyl acrylate / 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, and a mixture thereof.

9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 in which the semi-crystalline polymer(s) have a number average molecular weight Mn ranging from 5,000 to 9,000 g / mol.

10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 in which the semi-crystalline polymer(s) have a melting temperature ranging from 40°C to 70°C, and preferably ranging from 45°C to 67°C.

11. V-. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10 in which the semi-crystalline polymer(s) are present in an active material content ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.2% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11 in which the scleroglucan gum(s) represent from 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.25 to 3% by weight, better still 0.35 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 12 comprising at least one emulsifier.

14. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13 comprising at least one or more non-ionic emulsifiers of alkylpolyglycoside type, preferably chosen from the compounds of the following general formula: RiO-(R2O)t-(G)v in which: - Ri represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising 6 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical comprises 6 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms; - R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms, - G represents a sugar unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms, -1 denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10, preferably from 0 to 4, - v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4.

15. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14 comprising: - at least one ester of C12-C24 fatty acid and C2-C24 polyol, preferably at least one ester of C16-C18 fatty acid and glycerol; and - at least one anionic carboxylic or carboxylate surfactant chosen from amino acids modified by at least one C8-C30, preferably C8-C24, hydrocarbon chain, and their salts.

16. Composition according to claim 15 in which the C[2-C24] fatty acid ester(s) and C2-C24 polyol ester(s) are chosen from fatty acid esters and glycerol esters, preferably they are chosen from glyceryl laurate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl palmitate, and a mixture thereof.

17. Composition according to any one of claims 15 and 16 in which the ester(s) of C12-C24 fatty acid and C2-C24 polyol are present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 2% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.2% to 0.8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

18. Composition according to any one of claims 15 to 17 in which the carboxylic or carboxylate anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from compounds of the following structure: [Chem. 2] 0 4ch2> ^coom z ' N ' V" XYZ represents a linear or branched C8-C22 alkyl or alkenyl group; X is a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; n is equal to 0 or 1; Y is a hydrogen atom, a -(CH2)2C(O)OH group or a -(CH2)2C(O)O M+ group; and M is a hydrogen atom or a cation such as sodium, potassium, ammonium, triethanolamine.

19. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 18 comprising at least one saturated C12-C24 fatty alcohol, preferably chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, pentadecyl alcohol, hexadecyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, preferably behenyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol.

20. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 19 comprising at least one wax, in particular at least one jojoba ester wax, preferably present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 0.8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

21. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 20 comprising at least one helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax.