SPREAD-THROUGH COSMETIC COMPOSITION

Abstract

The invention relates to the field of cosmetics, particularly emulsions, and more especially to foamed emulsions, and their uses in cosmetic care, makeup, sun protection, and hair care for keratinous materials, preferably for the body, lips, face, hands, feet, and / or hair, more particularly to compositions such as creams, moisturizing, nourishing, repairing, and perfumed balms; nourishing, moisturizing, repairing, and shine-enhancing hair masks; curl-defining and anti-frizz masks; or makeup products with a moisturizing benefit in the form of tinted products, and products for the cheeks, lips, complexion, and eyes. No figure is shown in the abstract.

Description

Title of the invention: AMOUNTED COSMETIC COMPOSITION technical field

[0001] The invention belongs to the field of cosmetics, in particular emulsions, and more particularly to aerated emulsions, and their uses in cosmetic care, makeup, sun protection and hair care of keratinous materials, preferably body, lips, faces, hands, feet and / or hair, more particularly to that of compositions such as cosmetic compositions in the form of creams, moisturizing, nourishing, repairing and perfumed balms, nourishing, moisturizing, repairing and shine-enhancing hair masks, curl-defining, anti-frizz products or even makeup products with a moisturizing benefit in the form of tinted products, and products for the cheeks, lips, complexion and eyes.

[0002] The present invention relates to a loosely packed cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase and a gas, comprising: - 40 to 64% by mass, relative to the total mass of the dispersion, of an aqueous phase comprising a gelling agent selected from gums and polyacrylates, and at least one anionic surfactant having a hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched and comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, and - 36 to 60% by mass, relative to the total mass of the dispersion, of an oily phase comprising a butter having a melting point within a range of 20°C to 60°C, preferably from 20°C to 55°C, and a solid fat having a melting point strictly above 60°C, and - 40 to 100% by volume, relative to the total volume of the dispersion, of gas, preferably 80 to 90%, preferably air or nitrogen. The composition according to the invention is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, in which a certain quantity of gas, preferably air or nitrogen, has been incorporated, a foamed emulsion or foam. The invention also relates to the use of this foamed emulsion in cosmetic compositions such as emulsions, for example, in the form of creams, moisturizing, nourishing, repairing, and perfumed balms; nourishing, moisturizing, repairing, and shine-enhancing hair masks; curl-defining and anti-frizz masks; or even makeup products with a moisturizing benefit in the form of tinted products, and products for the cheeks, lips, complexion, and eyes.

[0003] The applicant is a creator of Botanical Beauty and has been promoting natural cosmetics since 1959. Its research into raw materials and its expertise in formulation drive it to innovate in order to create increasingly natural formulas to satisfy consumers and generate scientific value. In order to limit its environmental impact, the applicant is pursuing an innovation approach to replace ingredients derived from non-renewable and non-easily biodegradable resources. This represents a major challenge in certain cosmetic categories, as it is imperative to simultaneously guarantee the safety, efficacy, and sensory appeal of the products for consumers. State of the art

[0004] Aerated emulsions are well-known, particularly in the food industry. Unfortunately, this type of formulation has many drawbacks, such as a short shelf life and a shorter "best before" date than a non-aerated product. Furthermore, this type of composition often imposes constraints on transport and storage, requiring temperature control to ensure foam stability. Similar problems arise in the cosmetics industry, and these types of storage and transport constraints are not economically or environmentally viable for a cosmetic product.

[0005] It is nevertheless advantageous to provide this type of product, particularly for the benefits it offers end users. Cosmetic compositions in the form of foamed emulsions are versatile and thus offer the advantage of providing both rich and airy textures. This format allows for playful, non-greasy textures with a unique sensory experience. Indeed, in the cosmetics industry, the senses usually stimulated by products are touch and smell. By offering this type of texture, it is possible to broaden the end user's sensory experience by stimulating a new sense—hearing—with crunchy, crackling textures.Products rich in fats (such as butters, waxes, fatty alcohols) often have the drawback of being difficult to spread; by offering a high-aeration version, we can improve the spreadability of these products by making them less difficult to apply.

[0006] However, aerated emulsions in the cosmetics field present an additional challenge, as it is often difficult to work with an emulsion robust enough to receive and retain air while also being able to withstand a high shear rate during aeration. Furthermore, the heat and transport stability of this type of formula remains complex. Indeed, cosmetic products are often intended for shipment to various locations. countries with different climates. Stability must therefore be sufficient so that the foamed emulsion can withstand harsh transport conditions (trucks, boats, mail order) at different temperatures (which can fluctuate from -20°C to 40°C), and still have a shelf life of between 24 and 36 months.

[0007] There is therefore a real need to make available a cosmetic composition in the form of a whipped oil-in-water emulsion that limits or avoids the phenomena described above; that is to say, a composition allowing for an airy, non-greasy texture with a crisp setting (i.e., obtaining a rich, airy, non-greasy texture that will broaden the range of sensory stimuli for the end user when using the product) and innovative while remaining stable during transport and heat, capable of combining a satisfactory sensory experience for the end user and good stability while remaining economically viable for the manufacturer. Detailed description of the invention

[0008] It is to the applicant's credit that they have proposed a new aerated cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase and a gas, comprising: - 40 to 64% by mass, relative to the total mass of the dispersion, of an aqueous phase comprising a gelling agent selected from gums and polyacrylates, and at least one anionic surfactant having a hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched and comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, and - 36 to 60% by mass, relative to the total mass of the dispersion, of an oily phase comprising a butter having a melting point within a range of 20°C to 60°C, preferably from 20°C to 55°C, and a solid fat having a melting point strictly above 60°C, and - 40 to 100% by volume, relative to the total volume of the dispersion, of gas, preferably 80 to 90%, preferably air or nitrogen, which, when used or incorporated into a cosmetic composition, provides it with prolonged stability (at least 3 months at 40°C, including transport at hot or ambient temperature), optimal user comfort without loss of quality compared to a known aerated composition. The new composition according to the invention allows for a significantly longer shelf life compared to conventional aerated compositions. The composition according to the invention makes it possible to include a large quantity of butter while limiting the greasy finish and remaining sufficiently airy. It is a texture that provides sensory pleasure to the end user, that is to say, a diverse sensory experience by stimulating the senses of touch and hearing through this playful texture.Also, in the field of cosmetics, no cold storage implies products. stable and economically viable for the manufacturer, but also greater flexibility for the end user.

[0009] The cosmetic composition according to the invention is very versatile and can in particular be incorporated into any type of product comprising this type of emulsion, such as a cream, a milk, a poured emulsion and / or a colored emulsion such as a BB cream, a foundation.

[0010] The invention thus relates to a loosely packed cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase and a gas, comprising: - 40 to 64% by mass, relative to the total mass of the dispersion, of an aqueous phase comprising a gelling agent selected from gums and polyacrylates, and at least one anionic surfactant having a hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched and comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, and - 36 to 60% by mass, relative to the total mass of the dispersion, of an oily phase comprising a butter having a melting point within a range of 20°C to 60°C, preferably from 20°C to 55°C, and a solid fat having a melting point strictly above 60°C, and - 40 to 100% by volume, relative to the total volume of the dispersion, of gas, preferably 80 to 90%, preferably air or nitrogen.

[0011] An emulsion is defined as a heterogeneous mixture of two immiscible liquid substances, one of which is dispersed as small droplets in the other. These are generally two liquids that do not spontaneously mix (immiscible), such as water and oil, but which, through specific operations (agitation, mixing, addition of certain active ingredients), adopt a macroscopically homogeneous but microscopically heterogeneous appearance. One of the substances is dispersed in the second substance as droplets. The mixture remains stable thanks to a third ingredient called an "emulsifier" (the rate or kinetics of the mixture's evolution are virtually zero). An aerated emulsion, for example a foam, resembles an emulsion but also includes a gas, such as air or nitrogen, dispersed as bubbles in the emulsion.Another important difference between foams and emulsions is the volume fraction of the dispersed phase (gas), which is generally much higher in the most stable foams.

[0012] A cosmetic composition with added ingredients is thus understood to be a cosmetic composition comprising; - an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion (or dispersion), that is, an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, and - a volume of gas, such as air or an inert gas like nitrogen. The cosmetic composition according to the invention can thus be in the form of a foam.

[0013] Preferably, the total sum of the % by mass of the aqueous phase and the oily phase is equal to 100.

[0014] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention can have a density ranging from 0.5 to 0.7, preferably from 0.5 to 0.65. The density can be adjusted, depending on the intended applications, in particular by controlling the amount of gas incorporated into the composition. A low density, on the order of 0.5, will be preferred for very airy and stable applications, for example, for light textures such as facial cosmetic products. A high density, on the order of 0.7, will be preferred for less airy textures and applications such as massage balms.

[0015] A gelling agent is understood to be a macromolecule of natural or synthetic origin capable of forming gels by trapping a large quantity of solvent, generally water, in a three-dimensional network.

[0016] Advantageously, the gelling agent may be a gelling agent of natural origin. The gelling agent of natural origin is preferably chosen from gums. It may be chosen from xanthan gum, succinoglycan gum, sclerotium gum, cellulose gum & microcrystalline cellulose optionally comprising a sphingomonas ferment extract, gellan gum, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, and mixtures thereof, preferably chosen from xanthan gum and succinoglycan gum.

[0017] Advantageously, the gelling agent can be a gelling agent of synthetic origin. The gelling agent of synthetic origin is preferably chosen from polyacrylates. It can be chosen from carbomers (for example, CAS = 9007-20-9 / 9003-01-4 / 76050-42-5 / 9062-04-8), polyacrylate crosspolymer-6, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / vp copolymer and hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer.

[0018] Advantageously, in the cosmetic composition according to the invention, the mass concentration of the gelling agent is within a range of 0.2 to 1%, relative to the total mass of the dispersion formed by the aqueous and oily phases. Preferably, the mass concentration of the gelling agent is within a range of 0.3 to 0.8%, by mass relative to the total mass of the dispersion.

[0019] A surfactant (or surface-active agent) is a compound that modifies the surface tension between two surfaces. Surfactant compounds are amphiphilic molecules, meaning they have two parts with different polarities: one lipophilic (attracting to fats) is nonpolar, and the other hydrophilic (miscible in water) is polar. They thus allow... To solubilize two immiscible phases, it interacts with one nonpolar phase (i.e., lipophilic and therefore hydrophobic) via its hydrophobic part, while interacting with the other polar phase via its hydrophilic part. An anionic surfactant is defined as a surfactant whose hydrophilic part is negatively charged.

[0020] Advantageously, the anionic surfactant can be chosen from glutamates, lactylates, phosphates and mixtures thereof, preferably from sodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium stearoyl lactylate and potassium cetyl phosphate.

[0021] Advantageously, in the cosmetic composition according to the invention, the concentration of anionic surfactant can be within a range of 0.3 to 1.0%, relative to the total mass of the dispersion formed by the aqueous phase and the oily phase.

[0022] The term "butter" refers to oily / fatty compounds whose definition is generally well known to those skilled in the art, in the technical field of the invention. Butters generally have a melting point in the range of 20°C to 60°C. The butters usable in the anhydrous cosmetic compositions of the invention are butters of natural origin, preferably of vegetable origin, preferably having a melting point in the range of 20°C to 60°C, preferably from 20°C to 55°C.

[0023] Advantageously, the butter can be chosen from shea butter, cocoa butter, illipe butter, mango butter, macadamia butter, camellia butter, illipe butter, murumuru butter, bacuri butter, jojoba butter, sweet almond butter, tucuma butter, shorea robusta seed butter, bacuri butter, cupuacu butter, ucuuba butter, and mixtures thereof.

[0024] Advantageously, in the cosmetic composition according to the invention, the concentration of butter can be within a range of 10 to 40%, relative to the total mass of the dispersion formed by the aqueous phase and the oily phase.

[0025] Solid fat body means a wax, a fatty alcohol or a fatty acid having a melting point strictly above 60°C.

[0026] Advantageously, in the cosmetic composition according to the invention, the solid fat can be chosen from fatty alcohols and fatty acids comprising 18 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0027] Advantageously, in the cosmetic composition according to the invention, the concentration of solid fatty substances can be within a range of 4 to 12%, relative to the total mass of the dispersion formed by the aqueous phase and the oily phase.

[0028] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more hydrophilic or lipophilic excipients selected from one or more compounds selected from water-miscible solvents, solid fats (second solid fat, different from the solid fat described above) or liquids, including oils (hydrogenated or not), surfactants (second surfactant, different from the anionic surfactant described above), polyols, gelling agents (second gelling agent, different from the gums and polyacrylates described above), emollients, thickeners (different from the gums described above), pH adjusters, perfumes, colorants, pigments, antimicrobial agents, preservatives, antioxidants, essential oils or cosmetic actives.

[0029] Lipophilic excipients, when in liquid form, are understood to be a liquid that is not miscible with water, that is to say, when introduced at a rate of at least 1% by mass into water at 25°C, is not at all soluble in water, or soluble to a rate of less than 10% by mass, relative to the mass of excipient introduced into the water; and when in solid form, are not soluble in water, that is to say, when introduced at a rate of at least 1% by mass into water at 25°C, is not at all soluble in water, or soluble to a rate of less than 10% by mass, relative to the mass of excipient introduced into the water.

[0030] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise an oil. The oil may be of animal or vegetable origin, natural or synthetic. The oil is preferably of vegetable origin and / or preferably of natural origin.

[0031] In the context of the invention, "oil" means oily / fatty compounds, the definition of which is generally well known to those skilled in the art, in the technical field of the invention, which are liquid at room temperature. An oil is a liquid immiscible with water, that is to say, when introduced at a concentration of at least 1% by mass into water at 25°C, it is either completely insoluble in water, or soluble to a degree of less than 10% by mass, relative to the mass of oil introduced into the water. An oil may be volatile or non-volatile. By "non-volatile," we mean an oil whose vapor pressure at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 103 mmHg (0.13 Pa). By "volatile," we mean an oil capable of evaporating upon contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.The oils usable in the cosmetic compositions of the invention are oils of natural origin, preferably of vegetable origin, preferably having a melting point below 20°C.

[0032] Advantageously, the oil may be chosen from the group comprising oils of vegetable origin, preferably chosen from sweet almond, avocado, wheat germ, hazelnut, apricot kernel, castor, sesame, sunflower, rice, coconut, macadamia, safflower, jojoba, rapeseed, grapeseed oils, camellia, argan, cotton, borage, rosehip, evening primrose, olive, walnut, babassu, plum, coconut, chamomile, calendula, peppermint, hemp, lemon, palm, rosemary, sage, shea, soy, flax, squalane (cane sugar oil), C8 to C30 alkanes and mixtures thereof.

[0033] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise an ester (ester oil). The ester may be of animal or vegetable origin, natural or synthetic. The ester is preferably of vegetable origin and / or preferably of natural origin.

[0034] Advantageously, the ester can be chosen from the group comprising esters, preferably chosen from phenoxytheyl caprylate, ethylhexyl cocoate, coco-caprylate / caprate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, ethylhexyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, dibutyl adipate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisobutyl adipate, isoamyl laurate, coco-caprylate, C8 to C30 alcohol triglycerides (i.e. caprylic / capric triglyceride) and mixtures thereof.

[0035] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise an ether (ether oil). The ether may be of animal or vegetable origin, natural or synthetic. The ether is preferably of vegetable origin and / or preferably of natural origin.

[0036] Advantageously, the ether can be chosen from the group comprising vegetable ethers, preferably dicaprylyl ether,

[0037] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise a carbonate (carbonate oil). The carbonate may be of animal or vegetable origin, natural or synthetic. The carbonate is preferably of vegetable origin and / or preferably of natural origin.

[0038] Advantageously, the carbonate can be chosen from the group comprising dicaprylyl carbonate, butylene carbonate, 14-15 dialkyl carbonate, diethyl carbonate, dipropyl carbonate, dipropylheptyl carbonate, propylene carbonate and mixtures thereof.

[0039] Advantageously, the fatty acid may be selected from the group comprising vegetable fatty acids, preferably selected from fatty acids in the C8 to C26 range, other than the solid fat defined above. Preferably, the fatty acid may be selected from lauric acid, cetyl acid, cetearyl acid, stearic acid, palmitic acid, myristic acid, behenic acid, arachidic acid and mixtures thereof.

[0040] Advantageously, the fatty alcohol can be chosen from the group comprising vegetable fatty alcohols, preferably chosen from fatty alcohols with a C10 to C22 concentration, other than the solid fat defined above. Preferably, the fatty alcohol can be chosen from cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, palmitic alcohol, stearic alcohol, behenic alcohol, arachidic alcohol and mixtures thereof.

[0041] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one pigment and / or colorant. The pigment may be selected from the group comprising organic, inorganic, and / or composite pigments such as, for example, monochrome pigments (white, black, or colored), lacquers, pearlescent pigments, and / or optical effect pigments. They may be synthetic or natural.

[0042] In the context of the invention, "pigment" means organic, inorganic, or composite particles, which may be monochrome, lacquers, mother-of-pearls, or pigments with optical effects, such as reflective pigments and goniochromatic pigments. For example, it may be a pigment such as those described in Regulation (EC) No 1223 / 2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council. Mineral (inorganic) pigments may be selected from metallic oxide pigments (such as cerium, chromium, iron, titanium, zinc, or zirconium oxides, manganese violet, Prussian blue, ultramarine blue, iron blue, and mixtures thereof). Organic pigments can be D&C red 6, D&C red 27 aluminum lake, FD&C red 40 aluminum lake, D&C red 21 aluminum lake, D&C red 36, FD&C yellow 5 aluminum lake, FDC Blue 1 aluminum lake, D&C red 7 aluminum lake, D&C red 30.

[0043] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may include a pigment of natural origin. The pigment of natural origin is preferably selected from spirulina platensis extract & trehalose (spirulina extract), dipteryx odorata seed extract (baru nut extract) and bertholletia excelsa seed extract (Brazil nut extract).

[0044] In the context of the invention, "mother-of-pearl" means colored particles or elements of any shape, iridescent or not, natural or synthetic, which can be produced in their shell or synthesized. Mother-of-pearl generally exhibits color effects. Mother-of-pearl can be created on various substrates, including mica, synthetic fluorflogopithe, bismuth oxychloride, and borosilicate, and combined with the pigments listed in the preceding paragraph.

[0045] In the context of the invention, "colorant" means coloring substances that are not pigments or pearlescent pigments. For example, it could be a colorant such as those described in Regulation (EC) No 1223 / 2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council.

[0046] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise a colorant of natural origin. The colorant of natural origin may be chosen from water-soluble coloring plant extracts such as carthamus tinctorius flower extract & maltodextrin (gardenia extract), hydrolyzed jardinia florida extract & maltodextrin, (gardenia extract), anthocyanins & citric acid & maltodextrin (cabbage extract) and fat-soluble plant extracts such as capsicum annuum fruit extract (paprika extract) and curcuma longa root extract & propylene glycol (turmeric extract).

[0047] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one fragrance. "Fragrance" is understood to mean a perfume composition whose primary function is to modify the odor of a product or to impart a fragrance to a product.

[0048] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one lipophilic cosmetic active ingredient.

[0049] In the context of this invention, a "cosmetic active ingredient" means a substance or mixture of substances intended to be placed in contact with the superficial parts of the human body (more particularly the epidermis, hair and scalp, lips, etc.) or with the teeth and oral mucosa, with a view exclusively or primarily to cleaning them, perfuming them, changing their appearance, protecting them, keeping them in good condition, or correcting body odors. A cosmetic active ingredient is thus generally an ingredient that acts on the skin to provide it with a real benefit. For example, an active ingredient may be nourishing, soothing, moisturizing, mattifying, or redensifying.

[0050] Advantageously, the lipophilic cosmetic active ingredient can be chosen from the group comprising extracts of cornflower, German chamomile, rosemary, and calendula. The cosmetic active ingredient can be easily selected by a person skilled in the art according to the desired cosmetic effect (anti-aging, nourishing, soothing, moisturizing, mattifying, redensifying, deodorizing).

[0051] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one essential oil. An "essential oil" is defined as an oily liquid concentrated in plant substances, obtained by extraction or distillation of volatile molecules from the original plant. It consists mainly of terpenoids and aromatic molecules. Essential oils derived from different plants therefore possess different properties, depending on their original composition.

[0052] Advantageously, the pH of the composition can be within a range of 5 to 8. The nature and quantity of the pH regulating agent can be chosen according to this parameter. The pH regulating agent can, for example, be sodium hydroxide (NaOH), an arginine salt, citric acid, or lactic acid.

[0053] A hydrophilic excipient is understood to be a liquid miscible with water, that is to say, when introduced at a concentration of at least 0.1% by mass into water at 25°C, it is completely soluble in water, or soluble to a degree of at least 90% by mass, by ratio to the mass of excipient introduced into the water; and when it is solid, soluble in water, i.e. soluble at least 0.1 g / L.

[0054] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one second surfactant, different from the anionic surfactant defined above. The surfactant may be an anionic, cationic, non-ionic, amphoteric surfactant, or a mixture thereof.

[0055] Advantageously, the anionic surfactant can be chosen from the group comprising an alkyl sulfate, an alkyl sulfoacetate, an isethionate, a taurate, an acylglutamate, and a sarcosinate.

[0056] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may comprise one, two, or three of the aforementioned anionic surfactants. For example, the composition of the invention may contain ammonium lauryl sulfate, lauryl sulfoacetate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, disodium cetearyl sulfosuccinate, sodium lauryl glucose carboxylate, or a mixture thereof.

[0057] According to the invention, at least one amphoteric surfactant may be selected from the group comprising N-alkylamidobetaines, betaines, sultaines, alkyl polyaminocarboxylates, alkylamphoacetates, their derivatives, and glycine derivatives. For example, the composition according to the invention may contain betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, cocobetaine, cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, and sodium cocoamphoacetate.

[0058] According to the invention, at least one non-ionic surfactant can be selected from the group comprising glycolipids, alkyl polyglucosides, glyceryl fatty acid esters, sucrose fatty acid esters, oxyalkylated sucrose esters, oxyalkylated glycerol esters, fatty acid polyethylene glycol esters, fatty acid sorbitan esters, polyglycerol fatty alcohols and glucamine derivatives. For example: the composition of the invention may contain decylglucoside, laurylglucoside, glyceryl oleate, pEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, glyceryl stearate citrate, sorbitan palmitate, cocoyl methyl glucamide, polyglyceryl-3 dicitrate / stearate, polyglyceryl-6 caprylate, polyglyceryl-4 caprate, polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-3 ricinoleate, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxysteate.

[0059] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one additional gelling agent. The additional gelling agent is different from the gelling agent previously defined. The additional gelling agent may be a polysaccharide. The polysaccharide may be selected from gums such as diutan gum, konjac gum, alginate, glucomannan, and chondrus crispus. powder, carrageenan, hyaluronic acid (e.g., sodium hyaluronate), starch, sodium carboxymethyl starch, and mixtures thereof.

[0060] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one polyol, preferably a C3-C10 polyol. A polyol is understood to be a hydrocarbon compound comprising at least two hydroxyl groups. The C3-C10 polyol may be linear or branched. The polyol may be selected from glycerol, diglycerol, propylene glycol (propan-1,2-diol), butylene glycol (butan-1,2-diol), 1,4-butanediol, pentylene glycol (pentan-1,2-diol), 1,5-pentanediol, propane-1,3-diol, methylpropanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-heptanediol, butylethylpropanediol, 1,2-octanediol, 1,2-decanediol, caprylyl glycol, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the polyol is selected from glycerol, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, and mixtures thereof.

[0061] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one preservative and / or an antimicrobial agent. The at least one preservative and / or an antimicrobial agent may be chosen from among the substances listed in Annex V "Preservatives" of Cosmetics Regulation (EC) No 1223 / 2009 of 30 November 2009, and more particularly from among sorbic acid and its salts, salicylic acid and its salts, benzoic acid, its salts and esters, dehydroacetic acid and its salts, phenylpropanol, benzyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

[0062] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one antioxidant. The antioxidant may be selected from hydroxyacetophenone, tocopheryl acetate, hydroxymethoxyphenyl decanone, tocopherol, and mixtures thereof. It may be any other substance capable of slowing down or preventing the oxidation of the cosmetic composition.

[0063] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one hydrophilic cosmetic active ingredient.

[0064] Advantageously, the hydrophilic cosmetic active ingredient can be chosen from the group comprising a floral water, a plant extract or an algae extract such as centaurea cyanus flower water (cornflower floral water) or carpobrotus edulis extract or porphyridium extract.

[0065] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one chelating agent. The chelating agent may be selected from trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, sodium phytate, sodium gluconate, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, sodium gluconate, potassium gluconate, caprylhydroxamic acid, phytic acid, and mixtures thereof. It may be any other cosmetic substance capable of binding positive ions to form a stable complex.

[0066] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more organic or inorganic salts, one or more organic acids, such as sodium chloride, calcium chloride, potassium chloride, sodium hydroxide (pH adjuster), citric acid, sodium bicarbonate, lactic acid, sodium citrate and mixtures thereof.

[0067] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further include vitamins, such as vitamin C, inositol (B7), panthenol (B5), vitamin F (ethyl linoleate), vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin A (retinol).

[0068] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention can be chosen from the following compositions E1A-D to E5A-D: [Tables 1] INCI El A El B E1C E1D AQUA QSP QSP QSP QSP SODIUM BENZOATE 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3 PENTYLENE GLYCOL 2 2 2 2 SUCCINOGLYCAN & AQUA et / ou XAN THAN GUM 0,2-1 0,2-1 0,2-1 0,2-1 SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE 0,3-1 0,3-1 0,3-1 0,3-1 LACTIC ACID & AQUA 0,1 0,1 0,1 0,1 TOTAL PHASE AQUEUSE (%) 40 40 64 64 BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII BUTTER 10,0-40,0 10,0-40,0 10,0-40,0 10,0-40,0 CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE 8 8 8 8 COCOS NUCIFERA OIL 4 4 4 4 BEHENYL ALCOHOL 4,0-12,0 4,0-12,0 4,0-12,0 4,0-12,0 CETEARYL ALCOHOL & CETEARYL G LUCOSIDE 2,5 2,5 2,5 2,5 GLYCERYL STEARATE CITRATE 1 1 1 1 PARFUM 0,5 0,5 0,5 0,5 1,2-HEXANEDIOL & CAPRYLYL GLYC OL 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3 MACADAMIA INTEGRIFOLIA SEED OI L & CALENDULA OFFICINALIS FLOW ER EXTRACT 1 1 1 1 TOTAL PHASE GRASSE (%) 60 60 36 36 TOTAL AIR OU AZOTE (en volume, (% volumique par rapport au volume total de la dispersion) 40 90 40 90 Table 1: compositions E1A, E1B, E1C and E1D. Unless otherwise stated, the numerical values ​​are given as mass percentages relative to the total mass of the dispersion. [Tables 2] INCI E2A E2B E2C E2D AQUA QSP QSP QSP QSP SODIUM BENZOATE 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 PENTYLENE GLYCOL 2 2 2 2 SUCCINOGLYCAN & AQUA and / or XAN THAN GUM 0.2-1 0.2-1 0.2-1 0.2-1 POTASSIUM CETYL PHOSPHATE 0.3-1 0.3-1 0.3-1 0.3-1 LACTIC ACID & AQUA 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 TOTAL AQUEOUS PHASE (%) 40 40 64 64 BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII BUTTER 10.0-40 10.0-40 10.0-40 10.0-40 CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE 8 8 8 8 COCOS NUCIFERA OIL 4 4 4 4 BEHENYL ALCOHOL 4.0-12 4.0-12 4.0-12 4.0-12 CETEARYL ALCOHOL & CETEARYL G LUCOSIDE 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 GLYCERYL STEARATE CITRATE 1 1 1 1 PARFUM 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 1,2-HEXANEDIOL & CAPRYLYL GLYC OL 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 MACADAMIA INTEGRIFOLIA SEED OI L & CALENDULA OFFICINALIS FLOW ER EXTRACT 1 1 1 1 TOTAL FAT PHASE (%) 60 60 36 36 TOTAL AIR OR NITROGEN (by volume, (volume % relative to the total volume of the dispersion)) 40 90 40 90 Table 2: compositions E2A, E2B, E2C and E2D. Unless otherwise stated, the numerical values ​​are given as mass percentages relative to the total mass of the dispersion. [Tables 3] INCI E3A E3B E3C E3D AQUA QSP QSP QSP QSP SODIUM BENZOATE 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3 PENTYLENE GLYCOL 2 2 2 2 SUCCINOGLYCAN & AQUA et / ou XAN THAN GUM 0,2-1 0,2-1 0,2-1 0,2-1 SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE 0,3-1,0 0,3-1,0 0,3-1,0 0,3-1,0 LACTIC ACID & AQUA 0,1 0,1 0,1 0,1 TOTAL PHASE AQUEUSE (%) 40 40 64 64 SHOREA STENOPTERA SEED BUTTER 10,0-40,0 10,0-40,0 10,0-40,0 10,0-40,0 CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE 8 8 8 8 COCOS NUCIFERA OIL 4 4 4 4 BEHENYL ALCOHOL 4,0-12 4,0-12 4,0-12 4,0-12 CETEARYL ALCOHOL & CETEARYL G LUCOSIDE 2,5 2,5 2,5 2,5 GLYCERYL STEARATE CITRATE 1 1 1 1 PARFUM 0,5 0,5 0,5 0,5 1,2-HEXANEDIOL & CAPRYLYL GLYC OL 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3 MACADAMIA INTEGRIFOLIA SEED 01 L & CALENDULA OFFICINALIS FLOW ER EXTRACT 1 1 1 1 TOTAL PHASE GRASSE (%) 60 60 36 36 TOTAL AIR OU AZOTE (en volume, ( % volumique par rapport au volume tota 1 de la dispersion) 40 90 40 90 Table 3: compositions E3A, E3B, E3C and E3D. Unless otherwise stated, the numerical values ​​are given as mass percentages relative to the total mass of the dispersion. [Tables 4] INCI E4A E4B E4C E4D AQUA QSP QSP QSP QSP SODIUM BENZOATE 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3 PENTYLENE GLYCOL 2 2 2 2 SUCCINOGLYCAN & AQUA et / ou XAN THAN GUM 0,2-1 0,2-1 0,2-1 0,2-1 SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE 0,3-1,0 0,3-1,0 0,3-1,0 0,3-1,0 LACTIC ACID & AQUA 0,1 0,1 0,1 0,1 TOTAL PHASE AQUEUSE (%) 40 40 64 64 THEOBROMA CACAO SEED BUTTER 10,0-40,0 10,0-40,0 10,0-40,0 10,0-40,0 CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE 8 8 8 8 COCOS NUCIFERA OIL 4 4 4 4 BEHENYL ALCOHOL 4-12,0 4,0-12,0 4,0-12,0 4,0-12,0 CETEARYL ALCOHOL & CETEARYL G LUCOSIDE 2,5 2,5 2,5 2,5 GLYCERYL STEARATE CITRATE 1 1 1 1 PARFUM 0,5 0,5 0,5 0,5 1,2-HEXANEDIOL & CAPRYLYL GLYC OL 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3 MACADAMIA INTEGRIFOLIA SEED 01 L & CALENDULA OFFICINALIS FLOW ER EXTRACT 1 1 1 1 TOTAL PHASE GRASSE (%) 60 60 36 36 TOTAL AIR OU AZOTE (en volume, ( % volumique par rapport au volume tota 1 de la dispersion) 40 90 40 90 Table 4: compositions E4A, E4B, E4C and E4D. Unless otherwise stated, the numerical values ​​are given as mass percentages relative to the total mass of the dispersion. [Tables 5] INCI E5A E5B E5C E5D AQUA QSP QSP QSP QSP SODIUM BENZOATE 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3 PENTYLENE GLYCOL 2 2 2 2 SUCCINOGLYCAN & AQUA et / ou XAN THAN GUM 0,2-1 0,2-1 0,2-1 0,2-1 SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE 0,3-1,0 0,3-1 0,3-1,0 0,3-1,0 LACTIC ACID & AQUA 0,1 0,1 0,1 0,1 TOTAL PHASE AQUEUSE (%) 40 40 64 64 MANGIFERA INDICA SEED BUTTER 10,0-40,0 10,0-40,0 10,0-40,0 10,0-40,0 CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE 8 8 8 8 COCOS NUCIFERA OIL 4 4 4 4 BEHENYL ALCOHOL 4,0-12,0 4,0-12,0 4,0-12,0 4,0-12,0 CETEARYL ALCOHOL & CETEARYL G LUCOSIDE 2,5 2,5 2,5 2,5 GLYCERYL STEARATE CITRATE 1 1 1 1 PARFUM 0,5 0,5 0,5 0,5 1,2-HEXANEDIOL & CAPRYLYL GLYC OL 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3 MACADAMIA INTEGRIFOLIA SEED 01 L & CALENDULA OFFICINALIS FLOW ER EXTRACT 1 1 1 1 TOTAL PHASE GRASSE (%) 60 60 36 36 TOTAL AIR OU AZOTE (en volume, ( % volumique par rapport au volume tota 1 de la dispersion) 40 90 40 90 Table 5: compositions E5A, E5B, E5C and E5D. Unless otherwise stated, the numerical values ​​are given as mass percentages relative to the total mass of the dispersion.

[0069] Surprisingly, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention make it possible to obtain, in particular through the incorporation of gas, the following advantages: - Innovative sensory experience across a wider range of products; high oil content without a greasy finish; - heat stable; - transport stable; - economical and ecological. - a best before date (BBD) in accordance with a cosmetic product of between 24 and 36 months, which is particularly unusual for a compounded formula.

[0070] On an expanded sensory palette, the composition according to the invention will stimulate both the senses of vision via photons which will stimulate the eye and the retina (for example color, brightness, transparency), hearing via bone vibrations and air vibrations which will stimulate the inner ear and the cochlea (for example crunching, sparkling), and finally olfaction via molecules in gaseous phase which stimulate the nose and the olfactory epithelium (for example odors).

[0071] In the present invention, when an interval is given, the bounds are included. For example, for an interval such as "from 1 to 5%", the values ​​1% and 5% are included in the interval.

[0072] In the present invention, unless otherwise stated, all percentages (%) are given as mass percentages, relative to the total mass of the dispersion, i.e. the aqueous and oily phase, without taking into account the gas, the mass of which is negligible for the volumes used.

[0073] For the purposes of this invention, a "natural product" is defined as a product falling within the definition given in ISO 16128: ingredients derived from natural materials are cosmetic ingredients, for a proportion of more than 50% of natural origin, by molecular weight, by renewable carbon content, or by any other appropriate method, which are obtained by defined chemical and / or biological processes aimed at chemically modifying them. It may be a chemical compound or a chemical substance produced by a living organism, i.e., one found in nature. For the purposes of this invention, products such as butters or oils derived from plants or from the hydrogenation of naturally derived oils, preferably vegetable oils, are considered to be natural products.

[0074] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more additional cosmetic excipients conventionally used in cosmetics, such as a wax, a butter or any other compound conventionally used in cosmetics, preferably of natural origin, different from the compounds mentioned and listed above.

[0075] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises several phases (including at least one aqueous phase). The composition according to the invention is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion (such as a cream, a lotion, a poured emulsion and / or a colored emulsion such as a BB cream, a foundation) that is aerated, that is to say, comprising a gas, preferably air or nitrogen.

[0076] The invention also includes a use of the composition according to the invention for the cosmetic care of keratinous materials, preferably the body, lips, face, hands, feet and / or hair.

[0077] The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the cosmetic care of keratinous materials, preferably the body, lips, face, hands, feet and / or hair, comprising at least one step consisting of applying to the body, lips, face, hands, feet or hair, at least one cosmetic composition according to the invention.

[0078] The invention also relates to a method for manufacturing the composition according to the invention, comprising the steps: a) formation of the dispersion, the aqueous and oily phases being defined as above, b) introduction of a volume of air or nitrogen into the emulsion obtained in step a), under agitation, preferably mechanical agitation of 100 to 650 rpm, the flow rate of air or nitrogen ranging from 46 to 119 L / h. Examples

[0079] The invention is further illustrated by the following examples, in a non-limiting manner.

[0080] Example 1: composition according to the invention

[0081] The following composition A (Table 6) was prepared according to the procedure described below, in Table 7. [Tableauxô] PHASE INCI % by mass A AQUA QSP A SODIUM BENZOATE 0.3 B PENTYLENE GLYCOL 2 B XANTHAN GUM 0.5 B SUCCINOGLYCAN & AQUA 0.3 C SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE 1 D BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII BUTTE R 20 D CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE 8 D COCOS NUCIFERA OIL 4 D BEHENYL ALCOHOL 6 D CETEARYL ALCOHOL & CETEARY L GLUCOSIDE 2.5 D GLYCERYL STEARATE CITRATE 1 E PARFUM 0.5 E 1,2-HEXANEDIOL & CAPRYLYL GL YCOL 0.3 F MACADAMIA INTEGRIFOLIA SEED OIL & CALENDULA OFFICINALIS F LOWER EXTRACT 1 G LACTIC ACID & AQUA 0.1 - TOTAL AQUEOUS PHASE (% by mass) 40 - TOTAL FAT PHASE (% by mass) 60 LABO AIR (% by volume compared to the total volume of the dispersion) 40 Table 6: Composition A [Tables?] PHASE ACTIONS MATERIALS A Heat A to 75°C with stirring in a water bath or hot plate. B Add phase B to A with vigorous stirring to fully disperse the gel. Rayneri with a deflocculating paddle. C Add phase C to AB with gentle stirring. Rayneri with a deflocculating paddle. D Prepare phase D and heat it in a second beaker to 75°C with stirring. Rayneri with a deflocculating paddle. When phases D and ABC are at 75°C, add phase D to ABC and emulsify under vigorous stirring for 10 minutes. / Start cooling ABCD Rayneri with deflocculating blade E. Around 35°C, add E to ABCD Rayneri with deflocculating blade F. Around 35°C, add F to ABCDE Rayneri with deflocculating blade G. Adjust the pH with G to comply with the standard 4.7-5.1. Rayneri with deflocculating blade LABO A J1, whip 300 g of emulsion (ABCDEFG) for 10 minutes using a Kenwood food processor with a whisk attachment.

[0082] Example 2: Stability test

[0083] The stability of composition A of example 1 is tested. The test conditions are described below.

[0084] To evaluate cold and heat storage, the jars were placed in several chambers: a refrigerator at 4°C, a freezer at -20°C, and three ovens at TA, 40°C and 50°C.

[0085] Composition A was evaluated according to the following criteria: appearance (absence of release, absence of volume loss, and visual morphology of the bubbles), color (absence of color difference such as yellowing), and odor (absence of non-compliant odors and presence of fragrance), measured at each temperature. These criteria were compared to the 4°C sample, which served as the control. At room temperature, the pH of the formula was also evaluated to verify that it remained within acceptable limits.

[0086] The stability criteria were observed: For 12 months at TA and 4°C, at 3 months at 40°C, at 1 month at -20°C, at 15 days at 50°C.

[0087] The stability test results are presented in Table 8 below: [Tables8] Date T = 0 (-20°C) compliant 4°C compliant TA compliant compliant 40°C compliant 50°C compliant Date T = 7 days (-20°C) compliant 4°C compliant TA compliant TAL compliant 40°C compliant 50°C compliant Date T = 22 days (-20°C) compliant 4°C compliant TA compliant TAL compliant 40°C compliant 50°C compliant Date T = 66 days (-20°C) not applicable 4°C compliant TA compliant TAL compliant 40°C compliant 50°C Not applicable Date T = 88 days (-20°C) not applicable 4°C compliant TA compliant TAL compliant 40°C compliant 50°C not applicable

[0088] The stability results are consistent with the different temperatures over time.

[0089] To evaluate transport stability and heat resistance simultaneously, the following predictive test was implemented. The objective of this test was to simulate possible shocks that a product might experience during transport. This test consists of placing the sample in a cardboard box which is then dropped four times from a height of 90 cm. The conformity of the tested containers was compared to a control container that was not subjected to shocks, according to the same criteria: appearance, color, and odor. This test allowed for a rapid evaluation of the robustness of composition A under shock conditions.

[0090] The results are presented in Table 9 below: [Tables 9] Sample storage temperature TA TA 40°C Sample storage time post-bulking J0 J5 J5 Sample temperature during drop TA TA 40°C Results Compliant Compliant Compliant

[0091] Conclusion: the results presented in Table 9 show the shock stability, at temperature of composition A.

[0092] Example 3: Transport conditions

[0093] To validate the robustness of our loose dispersion during transport, the samples underwent drop and vibration tests following the procedure described in the procedure Packaged-Products for Parcel Delivery System Shipment 70 kg (150 Ib) or Less, ISTA 3A, March 2018. The samples will be pre-conditioned and then packed in a carton according to ISO 2206 standards. Each carton will undergo:

[0094] Two sequences of vertical impacts. The distances and points of impact are described in Table 10 below.

[0095] [Fig-1] Figure [Fig.1] shows a representation of the card, with the numbers of the faces, edges and corners. [Tables 10] Impact No. Drop Height (mm) Face No. Edge Corner (see figure 1) 1 460 Edge 3-4 2 460 Edge 3-6 3 460 Edge 4-6 4 460 Corner 3-4-6 5 460 Corner 2-3-5 6 460 Edge 2-3 7 460 Edge 1-2 8,910 Side 3 9,460 Side 3 10,610 Side 4 11,610 Side 1 12,610 Side 2 13,610 Side 3 14,610 Side 1 15,610 Side 2 16,610 Side 4

[0096] After each vertical shock sequence, a 30-minute vibration test sequence will be performed. The cardboard will be placed face 3 on the vibration table and random vibrations will be applied (Grms = 0.46).

[0097] The results are presented in Table 11 below: [Tableauxll] Case 1 to 5 1 to 4 Pre-conditioning Room temperature setting for 12 hours Oven setting at 40°C for 7 days Results All products are compliant All products are compliant

[0098] Conclusion: Composition A is robust against transport.

Claims

Demands

1. A foamed cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase and a gas, comprising: - 40 to 64% by mass, relative to the total mass of the dispersion, of an aqueous phase comprising a gelling agent selected from gums and polyacrylates, and at least one anionic surfactant having a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, and - 36 to 60%, relative to the total mass of the dispersion, by mass, of an oily phase comprising a butter having a melting point in the range of 20°C to 60°C, preferably 20°C to 55°C, and a solid fat having a melting point strictly above 60°C, and - 40 to 100% by volume, relative to the total volume of the dispersion, of gas, preferably 80 to 90%, preferably air or nitrogen.

2. Composition according to claim 1, having a density from 0.5 to 0.

7.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the gelling agent is selected from xanthan gum, succinoglycan gum, sclerotium gum, cellulose gum & microcrystalline cellulose optionally comprising a sphingomonas ferment extract, gellan gum, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from xanthan gum and succinoglycan gum.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the concentration of gelling agent is within a range of 0.2 to 1%, relative to the total mass of the dispersion formed by the aqueous phase and the oily phase.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the anionic surfactant is selected from glutamates, lactylates, phosphates and mixtures thereof, preferably from sodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium stearoyl lactylate and potassium cetyl phosphate.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the concentration of anionic surfactant is included in an interval ranging from 0.3 to 1.0%, relative to the total mass of the dispersion formed by the aqueous phase and the oily phase.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the butter is selected from shea butter, cocoa butter, illipe butter, mango butter, macadamia butter, camellia butter, illipe butter, murumuru butter, bacuri butter, jojoba butter, sweet almond butter, tucuma butter, shorea robusta seed butter, bacuri butter, cupuacu butter, ucuuba butter, and mixtures thereof.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the concentration of butter is within a range of 10 to 40%, relative to the total mass of the dispersion formed by the aqueous phase and the oily phase.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the solid fat is selected from fatty alcohols and fatty acids comprising 18 to 22 carbon atoms.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the concentration of solid fats is within a range of 4 to 12%, relative to the total mass of the dispersion formed by the aqueous phase and the oily phase.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising one or more compounds selected from water-miscible solvents, fats (other than the solid fat described in the preceding claims), including oils (hydrogenated or not), surfactants (other than that described in the preceding claims), polyols, gelling agents (other than that described in the preceding claims), emollients, thickeners (other than the gums described above), pH adjusters, perfumes, colorants, pigments, antimicrobial agents, preservatives, antioxidants, essential oils, or cosmetic actives.

12. Use of the composition according to any one of the preceding claims for the cosmetic care of keratinous materials, preferably the body, face, hands, feet and / or hair.

13. A method for manufacturing the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11 comprising the steps: a) formation of the dispersion, the aqueous and oily phases being defined according to any one of claims 1 to 11, b) introduction of air or nitrogen into the dispersion obtained in step a), under agitation, preferably mechanical agitation of 100 to 650 rpm, the flow rate of air or nitrogen ranging from 46 to 119 L / h.

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