HAIR COMPOSITION COMPRISING HYALURONIC ACID, A NON-IONIC SURFACTANT AND A FRAGRANCE SUBSTANCE
A composition with hyaluronic acid, non-ionic surfactants, and scented substances addresses stability issues, providing enhanced hydration and shine to keratin materials like hair and scalp, while maintaining aesthetic transparency.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2023008322
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2023-08-01
- Publication Date
- 2025-02-07
AI Technical Summary
Existing hair care compositions with high concentrations of hyaluronic acid and scented substances face stability issues over time, leading to problems like opacification and formation of suspended agglomerates, while failing to provide effective hydration, shine, softness, and strengthening to keratin materials such as hair and scalp.
A composition comprising hyaluronic acid or its salts, non-ionic surfactants, and scented substances, with a specific weight ratio of non-ionic surfactants to hyaluronic acid ranging from 4.2 to 6.2, ensuring stability and enhancing hydration, shine, and softness of keratin materials.
The composition provides excellent hydration, shine, and softness to keratin materials, while maintaining stability over time, with no signs of destabilization such as phase separation or agglomerates, and enhances the appearance and health of hair and scalp.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: HAIR COMPOSITION COMPRISING HYALURONIC ACID, A NON-IONIC SURFACTANT AND A PERFUME SUBSTANCE
[0001] The present invention relates to a composition comprising hyaluronic acid and / or one of its salts, a perfuming substance and a non-ionic surfactant.
[0002] The invention relates to a method for treating keratin materials comprising a step of applying to said keratin materials a composition according to the invention.
[0003] It is well known that hair can be sensitized or weakened to varying degrees, following the action of atmospheric agents such as light, water and humidity as well as by repeated mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, washing, bleaching, perming, straightening and / or dyeing. These attacks alter the hair fiber, they reduce its mechanical properties such as tensile strength, breaking load and elasticity, or its resistance to swelling in an aqueous medium. The hair is dull, rough and brittle. The hair is difficult to untangle and style.
[0004] For many years, the cosmetics industry has been looking for substances that can protect hair from these degradations; in particular, products are sought that improve the cosmetic properties, in particular detangling, softness to the touch, shine, volume of the hair, and that preserve or reinforce the intrinsic mechanical properties of keratin fibers, such as tensile strength, breaking load and elasticity, or their resistance to swelling in an aqueous medium.
[0005] Hyaluronic acid is an ingredient best known for skin care. By penetrating deep into the skin, it attracts and retains water, helping to maintain optimal hydration and restore the skin barrier.
[0006] It is also known to use hyaluronic acid on hair, as described for example in application EP 0 211 610. In hair care, it can perform several functions to enhance hair on a daily basis, such as limiting split ends and preventing hair breakage, making the hair softer and stronger; smoothing frizz and thus making styling easier; restoring shine and luster by moisturizing the hair fiber and repairing damaged hair; taking care of the scalp by moisturizing and strengthening it; all this without weighing down the hair.
[0007] In order to make cosmetic compositions more pleasant or sensory, it is also known to add fragrance substances (or perfume) to them.
[0008] However, it has been observed that formulations comprising a high concentration of hyaluronic acid and one or more perfuming substances may present stability problems over time, for example opacification of the formulation and / or the appearance of agglomerates in suspension.
[0009] From these observations arose the interest in developing a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, intended in particular for the treatment of keratin materials, mainly for the hair and / or the scalp, having good stability over time and good cosmetic properties, and capable of providing, among other things, care and hydration to said keratin materials without weighing them down so as to provide good conditioning properties to the keratin materials, while releasing an intense and pleasant fragrance.
[0010] There is therefore a real need to develop compositions comprising hyaluronic acid or one of its salts, in a significant content, and one or more perfuming substances, stable over time, capable of conferring good conditioning properties to keratin materials, in particular to the hair and the scalp, in particular in terms of hydration, shine, softness, and strengthening.
[0011] These aims are achieved with the present invention which notably relates to a composition, preferably cosmetic, comprising: i. one or more polysaccharides chosen from hyaluronic acid, its salts, and mixtures thereof; in a total content greater than or equal to 1.6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, ii. one or more perfuming substances, and iii. one or more non-ionic surfactants,
[0012] it being understood that the weight ratio of the total content of non-ionic surfactant(s) (iii) to the total content of perfuming substance(s) (ii) ranges from 4.2 to 6.2.
[0013] It has been found that the composition according to the invention has excellent moisturizing power for keratin materials, in particular the scalp and keratin fibers, such as hair.
[0014] In particular, the hair treated with the composition according to the invention is particularly hydrated, and has other cosmetic properties.
[0015] The hair thus treated is particularly shiny, soft to the touch, hydrated, strong. It also appears plumped / revitalized and has an appearance closer to natural healthy hair.
[0016] In addition, the scalp is particularly hydrated, with improved elasticity, while maintaining its barrier function.
[0017] It has also been found that treated hair is strengthened with more body and less breakage when combing.
[0018] The composition according to the invention is advantageously transparent, which gives it a particularly aesthetic appearance, appreciated by users.
[0019] Furthermore, it has also been found that the composition according to the invention with a high hyaluronic acid content is particularly stable over time, at atmospheric temperature and pressure.
[0020] For the purposes of the present invention, a stable composition may be defined as a composition showing no signs of destabilization such as phase separation, syneresis, flocculation, sedimentation, opacification of the composition, the appearance of suspended agglomerates, creaming, the presence of macroscopic oil droplets on the surface of the sample, or a change in color, odor or viscosity. A stable composition is advantageously a formulation showing no signs of destabilization as described above after the storage time considered at the temperature considered.
[0021] It has notably been surprisingly discovered that a weight ratio of the total content of non-ionic surfactant(s) to the total content of specific perfuming substance(s), of between 4.2 and 6.2, in a composition with a high content of hyaluronic acid makes it possible to significantly improve the stability of the composition over time.
[0022] The invention also relates to a method for treating, in particular cosmetically, keratin materials, in particular the skin of the body and / or the face, including the scalp, and / or keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers, such as the hair, and / or the scalp, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin materials a composition according to the invention.
[0023] Other objects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will appear even more clearly on reading the description and the example which follows.
[0024] In this description, and unless otherwise indicated:
[0025] - the expression "at least one" is equivalent to the expression "one or more" and can be substituted for it;
[0026] - the expression "between... and..." is equivalent to the expression "ranging from... to..." and may be substituted therefor, and implies that the terminals are included;
[0027] - By the expression “greater than” and respectively the expression “less than” to the meaning of the present invention, it is understood to mean a strictly upper, respectively strictly lower open interval, and therefore that the limits are not included.
[0028] - By "keratin materials" according to the present application, we mean more particularly specifically 1) the skin of the body and / or face (including the scalp) and 2) keratin fibers, and more particularly the scalp and hair.
[0029] - By "keratin fibers" according to the present application, we mean more particularly mainly human keratin fibers, and more preferably hair.
[0030] - By "fatty acid" according to the present application, we mean an organic acid comprising in its structure a hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0031] - By "fatty alcohol" according to the present application, we mean an alcohol comprising in its structure a hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 10 to 22 carbon atoms. Hyaluronic acid and its salts
[0032] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more polysaccharides chosen from hyaluronic acid, its salts, and their mixtures.
[0033] Hyaluronic acid is a linear, non-sulfated glycosaminoglycan composed of repeating units of D-glucuronic acid and N-acetyl-D-glucosamine.
[0034] According to the invention, the hyaluronic acid preferably has a number-average molecular weight ranging from 500 Da (i.e. g / mol) to 10,000,000 Da (i.e. g / mol), and more particularly ranging from 2,000 Da (i.e. g / mol) to 2,000,000 Da (i.e. g / mol).
[0035] As hyaluronic acid suitable for the present invention, mention may in particular be made of hyaluronic acids of animal or plant origin, crosslinked or non-crosslinked, such as those sold under the name Hylaform® by the company Genzyme, or hyaluronic acids of genetic origin including those intended for superficial, periorbital or perioral wrinkles, such as those sold under the name Restylane Fine Lines® by Laboratoire Q-Med, or intended for deep wrinkles, labio-mental depressions and oval facial lines, such as those sold under the names Perlane® and Restylane Sub-Q® by Laboratoire Q-Med. As hyaluronic acid suitable for the present invention, mention may be made of those sold under the name Restylane® by Laboratoire Q-Med and under the name Surgiderm® by Laboratoire Coméal.
[0036] Mention may also be made of low molecular weight hyaluronic acid (50 kDa) offered by Evonik under the name Hyacare 50®.
[0037] Among the hyaluronic acid salts, mention may in particular be made of sodium salts, potassium salts, zinc salts, silver salts, and mixtures thereof. More particularly, as hyaluronic acid salts, mention may be made of potassium hyaluronate and sodium hyaluronate. Thus, the sodium hyaluronate with a molecular weight of 1,100,000 Da (i.e. g / mol) marketed by the company Soliance under the name Cristalhyal®, as well as the sodium hyaluronate with a molecular weight of 20,000 to 50,000 Da (i.e. g / mol) marketed by the Soliance company under the name Renovhyal® LO.
[0038] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one hyaluronic acid salt as polysaccharide (i).
[0039] More preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one sodium hyaluronate and / or one potassium hyaluronate as polysaccharide (i); more preferably still one sodium hyaluronate.
[0040] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises hyaluronic acid in acid form.
[0041] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least two different polysaccharides (i) chosen from hyaluronic acid and its salts. More preferably according to this embodiment, the composition comprises at least two sodium hyaluronates of different molecular weights as polysaccharides (i). Even more preferably according to this embodiment, the composition comprises: a. a first sodium hyaluronate having a molecular weight greater than or equal to 1,000,000 Da (i.e. 1,000,000 g / mol), and b. a second sodium hyaluronate having a molecular weight less than 1,000,000 Da (i.e. 1,000,000 g / mol).
[0042] Preferably, the total content of polysaccharide(s) (i) in the composition ranges from 1.6% to 4% by weight; more preferably greater than or equal to 1.7% by weight; even more preferably ranges from 1.7% to 3% by weight; better still ranges from 1.7% to 2.5% by weight; even better still ranges from 1.8% to 2.3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0043] Preferably, the total content of hyaluronic acid, in acid form in the composition ranges from 1.6% to 4% by weight; more preferably greater than or equal to 1.7% by weight; even more preferably ranges from 1.7% to 3% by weight; better still ranges from 1.7% to 2.5% by weight; even better still ranges from 1.8% to 2.3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0044] Preferably, the total content of hyaluronic acid salt(s), in particular sodium salt(s), in the composition ranges from 1.6% to 4% by weight; more preferably greater than or equal to 1.7% by weight; even more preferably ranges from 1.7% to 3% by weight; better still ranges from 1.7% to 2.5% by weight; even better still ranges from 1.8% to 2.3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Perfumes
[0045] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more perfuming substances.
[0046] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “perfuming substance” is intended to denote any perfume, any odorous raw material or aroma capable of releasing a pleasant odor. “Perfuming”, “odorous” or “odoriferous” substances are synonyms within the meaning of the present invention.
[0047] The perfume substances may in particular comprise the raw materials described in S. Arctander, Perfume and Flavor Chemicals (Montclair, NJ, 1969), in S. Arctander, Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin (Elizabeth, NJ, 1960) and in “Flavor and Fragrance Materials - 1991”, Allured Publishing Co. Wheaton, 111.
[0048] The perfuming substances can advantageously be chosen from essential oils, perfumes, aromas of synthetic or natural origin, and their mixtures.
[0049] These may be natural products, such as essential oils, absolutes, resinoids, resins, concretes, and / or synthetic products, such as terpene or sesquiterpene hydrocarbons, alcohols, phenols, aldehydes, ketones, ethers, acids, esters, nitriles, peroxides, saturated or unsaturated, aliphatic or cyclic.
[0050] According to the definition given in the international standard ISO 9235 and adopted by the European Pharmacopoeia Commission, an essential oil is an odorous product generally of complex composition, obtained from a botanically defined plant raw material, either by steam distillation, or by dry distillation, or by an appropriate mechanical process without heating (cold expression). The essential oil is most often separated from the aqueous phase by a physical process which does not cause a significant change in the composition.
[0051] The choice of method for obtaining essential oils depends mainly on the raw material: its original state and its characteristics, its nature itself. The “essential oil / plant raw material” yield can be extremely variable depending on the plants: 15 ppm to more than 20%. This choice determines the characteristics of the essential oil, in particular viscosity, color, solubility, volatility, enrichment or depletion in certain constituents.
[0052] Steam distillation corresponds to the vaporization in the presence of water vapor of a substance that is poorly miscible with water. The raw material is placed in the presence of boiling water or water vapor in a still. The water vapor entrains the essential oil vapor which is condensed in the condenser to be recovered in liquid phase in a Florentine vase (or essencier) where the essential oil is separated from the water by decantation. The aqueous distillate that remains after steam distillation, once the separation of the essential oil has been carried out, is called "aromatic water" or "hydrosol" or "floral distilled water".
[0053] Obtaining by dry distillation consists of obtaining the essential oil by distillation of wood, bark or roots, without adding water or water vapor in a closed enclosure designed so that the liquid is recovered in its lower part. Cade oil constitutes the best known example of this method of obtaining.
[0054] The method of obtaining by cold expression only applies to citrus fruits (Citrus spp) by mechanical processes at room temperature. The principle of the method is as follows: the zests are shredded and the contents of the secretory pockets which have been broken are recovered by a physical process. The classic process consists of exerting an abrasive action under a stream of water on the entire surface of the fruit. After elimination of solid waste, the essential oil is separated from the aqueous phase by centrifugation. Most industrial installations in fact allow the simultaneous or sequential recovery of fruit juices and essential oil.
[0055] Essential oils are generally volatile and liquid at room temperature (25°C), which differentiates them from so-called fixed oils. They are more or less colored and their density is generally lower than that of water. They have a high refractive index and most deflect polarized light. They are liposoluble and soluble in common organic solvents, entrainable by water vapor, very slightly soluble in water.
[0056] Among the essential oils that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of those obtained from plants belonging to the following botanical families, alone or in a mixture: Abietaceae or Pinaceae, for example conifers; Amaryllidaceae; Anacardiaceae; Anonaceae, for example ylang; Apiaceae, for example umbellifers, in particular dill, angelica, coriander, fennel, carrot or parsley; Araceae; Aristolochiaceae; Asteraceae, for example yarrow, mugwort, chamomile, and helichrysum; Betulaceae; Brassicaceae; Burseraceae, for example frankincense; Caryophyllaceae; Canellaceae; Caesalpiniaceae, for example copaifera (copahu); Chenopodaceae; Cistaceae, for example cistus; Cyperaceae; Dipterocarpaceae; Ericaceae e.g. wintergreen; Euphorbiaceae; Fabaceae; Geraniaceae e.g. geranium; Guttiferae; Hamamelidaceae; Her-nandiaceae; Hypericaceae e.g. St. John's wort; Iridaceae;Juglandaceae; Lamiaceae, for example thyme, oregano, bee balm, savory, basil, marjorams, mints, patchouli, lavenders, sages, catnip, rosemary, hyssop, lemon balm, rosemary; Lauraceae, for example ravensara, bay, rosewood, cinnamon, litsea; Liliaceae, for example garlic; Magnoliaceae, for example magnolia; Malvaceae; Meliaceae; Monimiaceae; Moraceae, for example hemp, or hops; Myricaceae; Myristicaceae, for example nutmeg; Myrtaceae, for example eucalyptus, tea tree, niaouli, cajeput, backhousia, clove, myrtle; Oleaceae; Piperaceae, e.g. pepper; Pittosporaceae; Poaceae, e.g. lemongrass, lemongrass, vetiver; Polygonaceae; Ranunculaceae; Rosaceae, e.g. roses; Rubiaceae; Rutaceae, e.g. all citrus; Salicaceae; Santalaceae, e.g. sandalwood; Saxifragaceae; Schi-; Sandraceae; Styracaceae, e.g. benzoin; Thymelaceae, e.g. agarwood; Tilliaceae; Valerianaceae, e.g. valerian, spikenard; Verbenaceae, e.g. lantana, verbena; Violaceae; Zingiberaceae, e.g. galangal, turmeric, cardamom, ginger; Zygophyllaceae.
[0057] Mention may also be made of essential oils extracted from flowers (lily, lavender, rose, jasmine, ylang-ylang, neroli), stems and leaves (patchouli, geranium, petitgrain), fruits (coriander, anise, cumin, juniper), fruit peels (bergamot, lemon, orange), roots (angelica, celery, cardamom, iris, sweet flag, ginger), wood (pine wood, sandalwood, guaiac wood, rose cedar, camphor), herbs and grasses (tarragon, rosemary, basil, lemon grass, sage, thyme), needles and branches (spruce, fir, pine, dwarf pine), resins and balsams (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, frankincense, opopanax).
[0058] Examples of perfuming substances include: geraniol, geranyl acetate, famesol, borneol, bomyl acetate, linalool, linalyl acetate, linalyl propionate, linalyl butyrate, tetrahydrolinalool, citronellol, citronellyl acetate, citronellyl formate, citronellyl propionate, di-hydromyrcenol, dihydromyrcenyl acetate, tetrahydromyrcenol, terpineol, terpinyl acetate, nopol, nopyl acetate, nerol, neryl acetate, 2-phenylethanol, 2-phenylethyl acetate, benzyl alcohol, benzyl acetate, benzyl salicylate, styrallyl acetate, benzoate benzyl, amyl salicylate, dimethylbenzyl carbinol, trichloromethylphenylcarbinyl acetate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, isononyl acetate, vetiveryl acetate, vetiverol, alpha-hexylcinnamaldehyde, 2-methyl-3-(p-tert-butylphenyl)propanal,2-methyl-3-(p-isopropylphenyl)propanal, 3-(p-tert-butylphenyl)propanal, 2,4-dimethylcyclohex-3-enyl-carboxaldehyde, tricyclodecenyl acetate, tricyclodecenyl propionate, 4-(4-hydroxy-4-methylpentyl)-3-cyclohexenecarboxaldehyde, 4-(4-methyl 1-3-penteny 1)-3-cyclohexenecarboxaldehyde, 4-acetoxy-3-pentyl-tetrahydropyran, 3-carboxymethyl-2-pentylcyclopentane, 2-n-4-heptylcyclopentanone, 3-methyl-2-pentyl-2-cyclopentenone, menthone, carvone, tagetone, geranyl acetone, n-decanal, n-dodecanal, 9-decenol-l, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, phenylacetaldehyde dimethylacetal, phenylacetaldehyde diethylacetal, geranonitrile, citronellonitrile, cedryl acetate, 3-isocamphylcyclohexanol, cedryl methyl ether, isolongifolanone, hawthornonitrile, hawthorn, heliotropin, coumarin, eugenol, vanillin, diphenyl ether, citral, citronellal, hydroxycitronellal, damascone, ionones,methylionones, isomethylionones, solanone, irones, cis-3-hexenol and its esters, musk indans, musk tetralins, musk iso-, chromanes, macrocyclic ketones, musks-macrolactones, aliphatic musks, ethylene brassylate and mixtures thereof.
[0059] Preferably, a mixture of different perfuming substances can be used, which, when combined, will generate a pleasant note for the user.
[0060] Thus, the composition according to the invention advantageously comprises a mixture of perfuming substances, in particular of at least two distinct perfuming substances, and preferably of at least three distinct perfuming substances.
[0061] It is thus possible to choose, preferably, the perfuming substances in such a way that they produce notes (head, heart and base) in the following families: hesperides, aromatics, floral notes in particular pink flowers and white flowers, spicy, woody, gourmand, chypre, fern, leather, and musk.
[0062] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the perfuming substance(s) used in the composition according to the invention are distinct from the essential oils.
[0063] The composition according to the invention may use one or more natural perfuming substances, preferably producing notes in the following families: floral notes, in particular pink flowers and white flowers, gourmands, and mixtures thereof.
[0064] The composition according to the invention can also use one or more perfuming substances belonging to the floral, green, hesperidic, ozonic, marine, aldehyde, musky, powdery, sweet woody olfactory families.
[0065] The composition according to the invention can also use one or more perfuming substances belonging to the edible, spicy, leathery and possibly fruity, balsamic and aromatic olfactory families.
[0066] Preferably, the total content of perfuming substance(s) (ii) in the composition according to the invention is greater than or equal to 0.03% by weight, better still greater than or equal to 0.04% by weight; thus this content can range from 0.03% to 0.4% by weight, more preferably still ranges from 0.04% to 0.3% by weight, better still ranges from 0.045% to 0.2% by weight; still better still ranges from 0.05 to 0.15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Non-ionic surfactants
[0067] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more non-ionic surfactants.
[0068] The non-ionic surfactant(s) which can be used in the composition of the present invention are described in particular, for example, in “Handbook of Surfactants” by MR PORTER, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp 116-178.
[0069] As examples of non-ionic surfactants, these may optionally be selected from oxyalkylenated alkyl(C8-C24)phenols, C8 to C40 alcohols, C8 to C30 fatty acid amides, C8 to C30 acid esters of polyethylene glycols, C8 to C30 acid esters of sorbitol, fatty acid esters of sucrose, alkyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucosides, alkenyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucosides, alkyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucosides, oxyethylenated vegetable oils, ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide condensates, A-alkyl(C8-C30)glucamine and N-acyl(C8-C30)-methylglucamine derivatives, amine oxides, and mixtures thereof.
[0070] More particularly, the following compounds may be mentioned, alone or in a mixture: - oxyalkylenated alkyl(C8-C24)phenols; - C8 to C40 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated or glycerolated, they preferably comprise one or two fatty chains; distinct from the fatty alcohols described previously; - C8 to C30 fatty acid amides, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated; - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of polyethylene glycols; - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or not, linear or branched, and of sorbitol, preferably oxyethylenated; - esters of fatty acids and sucrose, - alkyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucosides, alkenyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucosides, optionally oxyalkylenated (0 to 10 oxyalkylenated units) and comprising from 1 to 15 glucose units, alkyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucoside esters, - oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or not; - ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide condensates; - derivatives of A-alkyl(C8-C30)glucamine and A-acyl(C8-C30)-methylglucamine; - amine oxides.
[0071] They are chosen, in particular, from fatty alcohols, alpha-diols, alkyl(Ci-C20)phenols, these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated, and having at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups being able to range in particular from 1 to 200 and the number of glycerol groups being able to range in particular from 1 to 30. Advantageously, the non-ionic surfactants are in particular C8-C30, preferably C8-C24, oxyalkylenated, preferably ethoxylated fatty alcohols comprising from 1 to 200 moles of ethylene oxide.
[0072] Mention may also be made of condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide on fatty alcohols; ethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average from 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular from 1.5 to 4, sorbitan fatty acid esters ethoxylated carboxylic acids having from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, sucrose fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, (C6-C24 alkyl)polyglycosides, oxyethylenated vegetable oils, N-(C6-C24 alkyl)glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C10-C14 alkyl)amine oxides or N-(C10-C14 acyl)-aminopropylmorpholine oxides.
[0073] The esters (in particular mono, di, tri esters) of C8-C30 fatty acid, preferably C12-C22, and of sorbitan can be chosen from: Sorbitan Caprylate; Sorbitan Cocoate; Sorbitan Isostearate; Sorbitan Laurate; Sorbitan Oleate; Sorbitan Palmitate; Sorbitan Stearate; Sorbitan Diisostearate; Sorbitan Dioleate; Sorbitan Distearate; Sorbitan Sesquicaprylate; Sorbitan Sesquii-sostearate; Sorbitan Sesquioleate; Sorbitan Sesquistearate; Sorbitan Triisostearate; Sorbitan Trioleate; Sorbitan Tristearate.
[0074] The esters (in particular mono, di, tri esters) of C8-C30 (preferably C12-C18) fatty acids and of polyoxyethylenated sorbitan having in particular from 2 to 20 moles of ethylene oxide may be chosen from esters of C12-C18 fatty acids, in particular lauric, myristic, cetyl, stearic acid, of (poly)oxyethylenated sorbitan having in particular from 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide.
[0075] The non-ionic surfactants can also be chosen from non-ionic surfactants of the alkyl(poly)glycoside (or APG) type, also called non-ionic alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactants.
[0076] By "alkyl(poly)glycoside" is meant an alkylpolyglycoside or an alkylmono-glycoside also called alkylglycoside in the present application, the alkyl group of which comprises between 6 and 30 carbon atoms, preferably between 6 and 24 carbon atoms, and which may optionally be alkoxylated by one or more alkylene oxide groups, preferably C2 to C4.
[0077] The non-ionic surfactant(s) of alkyl(poly)glycoside type are preferably chosen from the compounds of the following formula (III) and their mixtures: R1O-(R2O)t(G)v (III) formula (I), in which: - Ri represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl group containing from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, an alkylphenyl group whose linear or branched alkyl group contains from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, - R2 represents an alkylene group containing approximately 2 to 4 carbon atoms, - G represents a saccharide unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms, -1 denotes a value from 0 to 10, preferably 0 to 4, and -v denotes a value from 1 to 15.
[0078] Preferably, the non-ionic surfactant(s) of alkyl(poly)glycoside type are chosen, alone or in a mixture, from the compounds of formula (III) in which: - Ri denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl group, containing from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, - G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, and preferably glucose, -1 denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3, and is preferably equal to 0, and - R2 and v are as defined previously.
[0079] The degree of polymerization of the nonionic alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant(s), as represented for example by the index v in formula (III) above, varies on average from 1 to 15, and preferably from 1 to 4. This degree of polymerization varies more particularly from 1 to 2, and better still from 1.1 to 1.5, on average.
[0080] The glycosidic bonds between the saccharide units are 1,6 or 1,4; and preferably 1,4.
[0081] The alkyl(poly)glycoside nonionic surfactants which can be used in the present invention are preferably alkyl(poly)glucosides notably represented by the products sold by the company COGNIS under the names PLANTAREN® (600 CS / U, 1200 and 2000) or PLANTACARE® (818, 1200 and 2000). You can also use the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the names TRITON CG 110 (or ORAMIX CG 110) and TRITON CG 312 (or ORAMIX® NS 10), the products sold by the company BASF under the name LUTENSOL GD 70 or those sold by the company CHEM Y under the name AGIO LK, or the products sold by the company EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT under the trade names TEGO CARE CG 90 or TEGO CARE CG 90 MB.
[0082] The non-ionic surfactant(s) of alkyl(poly)glycoside type, present in the composition of the invention, are preferably chosen from caprylyl / capryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, coco glucoside, lauryl glucoside, myristyl glucoside, cetearyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the non-ionic surfactant(s) of alkyl(poly)glycoside type are chosen from caprylyl / capryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, coco glucoside, lauryl glucoside and mixtures thereof. Even more preferably, the non-ionic surfactant of alkyl(poly)glycoside type is coco glucoside.
[0083] The non-ionic surfactants can also be chosen from oxyethylenated vegetable oils.
[0084] Examples of oxyethylenated vegetable oils that may be mentioned include: sesame, castor, soybean, coffee, safflower, borage, sunflower, olive, apricot kernel, argan, camellia, bambara pea, avocado, mango, rice bran, cotton, rose, kiwi seed, sea buckthorn pulp, blueberry seed, flax, walnut, poppy, orange seed, sweet almond, palm, copra, vemonia, marjoram, baobab, rapeseed, ximenia, pracaxi, jojoba oil, shea oil, comprising from 1 to 250 moles of ethylene oxides, preferably from 1 to 200 moles of ethylene oxides, better still from 10 to 150 moles of ethylene oxide, even better still from 20 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide.
[0085] Preferably, the non-ionic surfactants of the oxyethylenated vegetable oil type are chosen from oxyethylenated castor oils, more preferably oxyethylenated hydrogenated castor oils, and in particular oxyethylenated hydrogenated castor oils with INCI names: PEG-25 Hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-30 Hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-35 Hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-40 Hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-45 Hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-50 Hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-54 Hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-55 Hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-60 Hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-65 Hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-80 Hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-100 Hydrogenated castor oil, and PEG-200 Hydrogenated castor oil, and mixtures thereof.
[0086] The non-ionic surfactant(s) are preferably chosen from: a) oxyethylenated vegetable oils comprising from 1 to 250 moles of ethylene oxide, b) ethoxylated C8-C24 fatty alcohols comprising from 1 to 200 moles of ethylene oxide, c) ethoxylated C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan having from 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, d) (C6-C24 alkyl)polyglycosides, and e) mixtures thereof.
[0087] More preferably, the non-ionic surfactant(s) are among oxyethylenated vegetable oils comprising from 1 to 250 moles, better still from 1 to 200, even better still from 10 to 150, always better still from 20 to 100, moles of ethylene oxide.
[0088] Even more preferably, the non-ionic surfactant(s) are chosen from, alone or as a mixture, oxyethylenated hydrogenated castor oils, having from 1 to 250, better still from 1 to 200, even better still from 10 to 150, still better still from 20 to 100, moles of ethylene oxide; and even better among the oxyethylenated hydrogenated castor oils with INCI names: PEG-25 Hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-30 Hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-35 Hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-40 Hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-45 Hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-50 Hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-54 Hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-55 Hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-60 Hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-65 Hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-80 Hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-100 Hydrogenated castor oil, and PEG-200 Hydrogenated castor oil, and mixtures thereof.
[0089] Preferably, the total content of non-ionic surfactant(s) (iii) is greater than or equal to 0.2% by weight; more preferably ranges from 0.2% to 2.4% by weight; more preferably still greater than or equal to 0.25% by weight; better still ranges from 0.25% to 2% by weight; even better still ranges from 0.3% to 1% by weight; still better still ranges from 0.3% to 0.6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0090] Preferably, the total content of oxyethylenated vegetable oil(s) is greater than or equal to 0.2% by weight; more preferably ranges from 0.2% to 2.4% by weight; more preferably still greater than or equal to 0.25% by weight; better still ranges from 0.25% to 2% by weight; even better is from 0.3% to 1% by weight; always better is from 0.3% to 0.6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0091] Preferably, the total content of oxyethylenated hydrogenated castor oil(s) is greater than or equal to 0.2% by weight; more preferably ranges from 0.2% to 2.4% by weight; even more preferably greater than or equal to 0.25% by weight; better still ranges from 0.25% to 2% by weight; even better still ranges from 0.3% to 1% by weight; still better still ranges from 0.3% to 0.6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0092] The weight ratio of the total content of non-ionic surfactant(s) (iii) to the total content of perfuming substance(s) (ii) is advantageously in the range from 4.5 to 6.1; preferably from 5 to 6.
[0093] Preferably, the weight ratio of the total content of oxyethylene vegetable oil(s) to the total content of perfuming substance(s) (ii) ranges from 4.5 to 6.1; more preferably from 5 to 6.
[0094] Preferably, the weight ratio of the total content of oxyethylenated hydrogenated castor oil(s) to the total content of perfuming substance(s) (ii) ranges from 4.5 to 6.1; more preferably from 5 to 6. Polyols
[0095] Preferably, the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one C2-C8 polyol.
[0096] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polyol" means an organic compound consisting of a hydrocarbon chain optionally interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms and carrying at least two free hydroxyl groups (-OH) carried by different carbon atoms, this compound being able to be cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.
[0097] More particularly, the polyol(s) comprise from 2 to 10 hydroxy groups, more preferably from 2 to 5 hydroxy groups, even more preferably from 2 to 3 hydroxy groups.
[0098] Preferably, the composition comprises one or more polyols chosen from C2-C8 diols and C3-C8 triols, and in particular chosen from diglycerin, glycerin, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentane-1,2-diol, octane-1,2-diol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.
[0099] More preferably, the composition comprises a polyol chosen from glycerin, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, and mixtures thereof.
[0100] More preferably still, the composition according to the invention comprises glycerin.
[0101] Advantageously, when the composition comprises it, the C2-C8 polyol(s) are present in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably 1%. at 15% by weight, preferably from 3% to 10% by weight, better still from 4% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0102] When the composition comprises one or more polyol(s) chosen from glycerin, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, and mixtures thereof, the total content of the polyol(s) preferably varies from 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, even more preferably from 3% to 10% by weight, better still from 4% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0103] When the composition comprises glycerin, the total glycerin content in the composition preferably varies from 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, more preferably still from 3% to 10% by weight, better still from 4% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Sequestering agents
[0104] Preferably, the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one sequestering (or chelating) agent.
[0105] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more sequestering agent(s).
[0106] The definition of a “sequestering agent” (or “chelating agent”) is well known to those skilled in the art and refers to a compound or mixture of compounds capable of forming a chelate with a metal ion. A chelate is an inorganic complex in which a compound (the sequestering or chelating agent) is coordinated to a metal ion, i.e. it forms one or more bonds with the metal ion (formation of a cycle including the metal ion).
[0107] A sequestering (or chelating) agent generally comprises at least two electron donor atoms which allow the formation of bonds with the metal ion.
[0108] In the context of the present invention, the sequestering agent(s) may be chosen from carboxylic acids, preferably aminocarboxylic acids, phosphonic acids, preferably aminophosphonic acids, polyphosphoric acids, preferably linear polyphosphoric acids, their salts and derivatives.
[0109] The salts are in particular salts of alkali metals, alkaline earth metals, ammonium and substituted ammonium.
[0110] According to the present description, hyaluronic acid and its salts are not sequestering agents according to the invention.
[0111] Examples of chelating agents based on carboxylic acids include the following compounds: diethylenetriamine pentaacetic acid (DTPA), ethylenediamine di-succinic acid (EDDS) and trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate such as Octaquest E30 from OCTEL, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), and its salts such as disodium EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, ethylenediamine-N,N'-diglutaric acid (EDDG), gly- cinamide-N,N'-disuccinic acid (GADS), glycinamide- N,N'-disuccinic acid (GADS), 2-hydroxypropylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid (HPDDS), ethylenediamine-N-N'-bis(ortho-hydroxyphenyl acetic acid) (EDDHA), N,N'-bis(2-hydroxybenzyl)ethylenediamine-N,N'-diacetic acid (HBED), nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA), methylglycine diacetic acid (MGDA), N-2-hydroxyethyl N,N diacetic acid and glyceryl imino diacetic acid (as described in documents EP-A-317,542 and EP-A-399,133), iminodiacetic acid-N-2-hydroxypropyl sulfonic acid and N-carboxymethyl aspartic acid N-2-hydroxypropyl-3-sulfonic acid (such as described in EP-A-516,102), beta-alanine-N,N'-diacetic acid, aspartic acid-N,N'-diacetic acid, aspartic acid-N-monoacetic acid (described in EP-A-509,382), iminodisuccinic acid (IDSA) chelating agents (as described in EP-A-509,382), ethanoldiglycine acid, phosphonobutane tricarboxylic acid such as the compound marketed by Bayer under the reference Bayhibit AM,N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid and its salts such as tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (GLDA) such as Dissolvine GL38 or 45S from Akzo Nobel.
[0112] Examples of mono- or polyphosphonic acid-based chelating agents include the following compounds: diethylenetriamine-penta (methylene phosphonic acid) (DTPMP), ethane-1-hydroxy-1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (E1HTP), ethane-2-hydroxy-1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (E2HTP), ethane-1-hydroxy-1,1-triphosphonic acid (EHDP), ethan-1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (ETP), ethylenediaminetetramethylene phosphonic acid (EDTMP), hydroxyethane-1,1 diphosphonic acid (HEDP, or etidronic acid), and salts such as disodium etidronate, tetrasodium etidronate
[0113] As examples of polyphosphoric acid-based chelators, the following compounds may be mentioned: sodium tripolyphosphate (STP), tetrasodium diphosphate, hexa-metaphophoric acid, sodium metaphosphate, phytic acid.
[0114] According to one embodiment, the sequestering agent(s) useful according to the invention are phosphorus sequestering agents, i.e. sequestering agents which comprise one or more phosphorus atoms, preferably at least two phosphorus atoms.
[0115] The phosphorus sequestering agent(s) used in the composition according to the invention are preferably chosen from: - inorganic phosphorus derivatives preferably chosen from phosphates and pyrophosphates of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, preferably of alkali metals such as sodium pyrophosphate, potassium pyrophosphate, sodium pyrophosphate decahydrate; and polyphosphates of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, preferably of alkali metals, such as sodium hexameta-phosphate, sodium polyphosphate, sodium tripolyphosphate, sodium trimeta-phosphate; optionally hydrated, and mixtures thereof; - organic phosphorus derivatives, such as organic (poly)phosphates and (poly)phosphonates, such as etidronic acid and / or its alkali or alkaline earth metal salts such as tetrasodium etidronate, disodium etidronate and mixtures thereof.
[0116] Preferably, the phosphorus sequestering agent(s) is (are) chosen from linear or cyclic compounds comprising at least two phosphorus atoms covalently linked together by at least one linker L comprising at least one oxygen atom and / or at least one carbon atom.
[0117] The phosphorus-containing sequestering agent(s) may be chosen from inorganic phosphorus-containing derivatives, preferably comprising at least 2 phosphorus atoms. More preferably, the phosphorus-containing sequestering agent(s) is / are chosen from alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal pyrophosphates, better still from alkali metal pyrophosphates, in particular sodium pyrophosphate (also called tetrasodium pyrophosphate).
[0118] The phosphorus-containing sequestering agent(s) may be chosen from organic phosphorus-containing derivatives, preferably comprising at least 2 phosphorus atoms. More preferably, the phosphorus-containing sequestering agent(s) is / are chosen from etidronic acid (also called 1-hydroxyethane 1,1-diphosphonic acid) and / or its alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, preferably alkali metal salts such as tetrasodium etidronate and disodium etidronate.
[0119] Thus, preferably, the phosphorus sequestering agent(s) are chosen from alkali metal pyrophosphates, etidronic acid and / or its alkali metal salts, and a mixture of these compounds.
[0120] In a particularly preferred manner, the phosphorus sequestering agent(s) are chosen from tetrasodium etidronate, disodium etidronate, etidronic acid, tetrasodium pyrophosphate and a mixture of these compounds.
[0121] According to the present invention, the sequestering agents are preferably chosen from diethylenetriamine pentaacetic acid (DTPA) and its salts, diethylenediamine tetraacetic acid (EDTA) and its salts, ethylenediamine disuccinic acid (EDDS) and its salts, etidronic acid and its salts, N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid and its salts (GLDA) and mixtures thereof.
[0122] More preferably, the sequestering agent(s) are chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid and its salts (GLDA) and their mixtures.
[0123] Among the salts of these compounds, the alkali metal salts are preferred, and in particular the sodium or potassium salts.
[0124] When the composition comprises one or more sequestering agents, the total content of the sequestering agent(s) preferably varies from 0.001% to 5% by weight, more preferably preferably from 0.005% to 2% by weight, better still from 0.01% to 1% by weight, even better still from 0.05% to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0125] When the composition comprises one or more sequestrants chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid and its salts (GLDA), the total content of sequestrants chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid and its salts (GLDA) preferably varies from 0.001% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.005% to 2% by weight, better still from 0.01% to 1% by weight, even better still from 0.05% to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0126] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is free of silicone.
[0127] By the expression "silicone-free", it is meant that the composition according to the invention does not comprise silicone, or that the silicone(s) present in the composition according to the invention are comprised in a total content of less than or equal to 0.1% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 0.05% by weight, more preferably less than or equal to 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention, better still silicone-free (0% by weight).
[0128] By "silicone" is meant any organosilicon polymer or oligomer with a linear or cyclic, branched or crosslinked structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained for example by polymerization and / or by polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes, and consisting essentially of a repetition of main units in which the silicon atoms are linked together by oxygen atoms (siloxane bond -Si-O-Si-), optionally substituted hydrocarbon radicals being directly linked via a carbon atom to said silicon atoms; and more particularly dialkylsiloxane polymers, amino silicones, dimethiconols.
[0129] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises water.
[0130] More preferably, the total water content of the composition according to the invention is between 20% and 99% by weight, preferably between 50% and 98% by weight, more preferably still between 70% and 95% by weight, even better between 80% and 92% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0131] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one C1-C8 monoalcohol; preferably C2-C6; more preferably non-aromatic, better linear or branched, and even better ethanol.
[0132] Preferably, when the C1-C8 monoalcohol(s) are present in the composition according to the invention, the total content of C1-C8 monoalcohol(s) may be between 0.01% and 30% by weight, more preferably between 0.05% and 20% by weight, even more preferably between 0.1% and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0133] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises water, the pH of the composition is between 3 and 9, more preferably between 4 and 7, even more preferably between 5 and 6.
[0134] The pH of the composition according to the invention can be adjusted to the desired value by means of alkalizing agents (such as monoethanolamine) and / or acidifying agents (such as citric acid).
[0135] The composition according to the invention may optionally also contain one or more additives used in cosmetics, such as for example thickeners, colorants, additional solvents (other than those previously disclosed), silicones, anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, polymers, nacres, plant extracts, suspended particles.
[0136] These additives may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0137] A person skilled in the art will take care to choose these possible additives and their quantities so that they do not harm the properties of the compositions of the present invention.
[0138] Preferably, the viscosity of the composition according to the invention is less than or equal to 500 mPa.s, more preferably less than or equal to 400 mPa.s, measured at 200 rpm using a Rheomat viscometer (Mobile 2), at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1.013x105 Pa).
[0139] More preferably, the composition according to the invention is transparent.
[0140] It has been noted that the transparency of the composition according to the invention is particularly aesthetic and sought after by users, in particular when the composition is packaged in a transparent container.
[0141] By “transparent” composition is meant a composition through which one can see clearly with the naked eye.
[0142] The transparency of the composition according to the invention can be characterized by measuring its transmittance.
[0143] In the context of the present invention, the transmittance measurements are carried out at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl05 Pa), with a UV-Visible spectrophotometer, CARY Type 100 scan.
[0144] Preferably, the transmittance of the composition measured at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (1.013xl05 Pa), is greater than or equal to 80%, preferably greater than or equal to 85%, more preferably still greater than or equal to 90%, even better still greater than or equal to 92%; and in particular ranging from 80 to 100%, or even from 85 to 100%, in particular from 90 to 100%, or even from 92 to 100%.
[0145] The composition according to the invention can advantageously be presented in the form of a serum, a conditioner, preferably leave-in, or even a lotion.
[0146] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises: (i) one or more polysaccharides chosen from hyaluronic acid, its salts, and mixtures thereof, in particular one or more sodium hyaluronates; in a total content greater than or equal to 1.7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, (ii) one or more perfuming substances, and (iii) one or more non-ionic surfactants chosen from oxyethylene vegetable oils, comprising from 1 to 250 moles of ethylene oxide, it being understood that the weight ratio of the total content of non-ionic surfactant(s) (iii) to the total content of perfuming substance(s) (ii) ranges from 4.5 to 6.1, in particular from 5 to 6.
[0147] The invention also relates to a method for treating, in particular cosmetically, keratin materials, in particular the skin of the body and / or the face, including the scalp, and / or keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers, such as the hair, and / or the scalp, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin materials a composition according to the invention.
[0148] Preferably, the method according to the invention is a method for caring for and / or moisturizing keratin materials, more preferably hair and / or the scalp.
[0149] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is applied to damp hair and / or scalp; advantageously the hair and / or scalp are not rinsed, in particular with water, or washed, in particular with a shampoo, after application of the composition, or at least within 2 hours, preferably within 3 hours, more preferably within 4 hours, better still within 6 hours, even better still within 12 hours, or even within 24 hours, after the step of applying the composition according to the invention.
[0150] The invention further relates to the use of the composition according to the invention as described above for the treatment of keratin materials, preferably for the care and / or hydration of keratin materials, in particular of the skin of the body and / or the face, including the scalp, and / or of keratin fibers, better still of human keratin fibers, such as the hair, and / or of the scalp.
[0151] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. Examples
[0152] Compositions A1 and A2 according to the invention and comparative compositions A3 and A4 were prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below, the quantities of which are expressed in % by weight of active material (AM).
[0153] [Tables 1] Ingredients Al (Inv) A2 (Inv) A3 (Comp) A4 (Comp) Sodium hyaluronate 2 2 2 2 PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 0.5 0.3 0.3 0.6 Fragrance substances 0.09 0.05 0.08 0.15 Glycerin 5 5 5 5 Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate 0.095 0.095 0.095 0.095 Hydroxyethylpiperazine ethanesulfonic acid (HEPES) 2 2 2 2 Phenoxyethanol 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 Preservative qs qs qs qs Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Weight ratio of total non-ionic surfactant(s) (iii) to total content of perfume substance(s) (ii) 5.6 6 3.75 4
[0154] It has been observed that compositions A1 and A2 according to the invention are particularly stable over time, unlike comparative compositions A3 and A4.
[0155] More particularly, it was observed after 1 month of storage at atmospheric temperature and pressure, that the comparative compositions A3 and A4 become opaque and present agglomerates in suspension, unlike the compositions A1 and A2 according to the invention which show no sign of destabilization.
[0156] The compositions A1 and A2 according to the invention can be applied to the scalp and hair, preferably damp, and left to dry in the open air. After several applications, we notice that the hair is more hydrated and appears plumped / revitalized; it has an appearance closer to natural healthy hair. In addition, the scalp presents less sensations of discomfort, especially when it is a dry scalp.
Claims
Claims
1. Composition comprising: i. one or more polysaccharides chosen from hyaluronic acid, its salts, and mixtures thereof; in a total content greater than or equal to 1.6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, ii. one or more perfuming substances, and iii. one or more non-ionic surfactants, it being understood that the weight ratio of the total content of non-ionic surfactant(s) (iii) to the total content of perfuming substance(s) (ii) ranges from 4.2 to 6.
2.
2. Composition according to the preceding claim, in which the total content of polysaccharide(s) (i) ranges from 1.6% to 4% by weight; preferably is greater than or equal to 1.7% by weight; more preferably ranges from 1.7% to 3% by weight; even more preferably ranges from 1.7% to 2.5% by weight; even better ranges from 1.8% to 2.3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one hyaluronic acid salt as polysaccharide (i), preferably at least one sodium hyaluronate and / or one potassium hyaluronate as polysaccharide (i), more preferably one sodium hyaluronate.
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least two sodium hyaluronates of different molecular weights as polysaccharides (i).
5. Composition according to the preceding claim, comprising: a. a first sodium hyaluronate having a molecular weight greater than or equal to 1,000,000 Da, and b. a second sodium hyaluronate having a molecular weight less than 1,000,000 Da.
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the perfuming substance(s) (ii) are chosen from essential oils, perfumes, aromas of synthetic or natural origin, and mixtures thereof.
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the total content of perfuming substance(s) (ii) is greater than or equal to 0.03% by weight; in particular greater than or equal to 0.04% by weight; preferably ranges from 0.03% to 0.4% by weight; more preferably ranges from 0.04% to 0.3% by weight; better still ranges from 0.045% to 0.2% by weight; even better still ranges from 0.05 to 0.15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the non-ionic surfactant(s) (iii) are chosen from oxyethylenated vegetable oils comprising from 1 to 250 moles of ethylene oxide, ethoxylated C8-C24 fatty alcohols comprising from 1 to 200 moles of ethylene oxide, ethoxylated C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan having from 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, (C6-C24 alkyl)polyglycosides, and mixtures thereof; and more preferably from oxyethylenated vegetable oils comprising from 1 to 250 moles, better still from 1 to 200, even better still from 10 to 150, always better still from 20 to 100, moles of ethylene oxide.
9. Composition according to the preceding claim, in which the non-ionic surfactant(s) (iii) are chosen from oxyethylenated hydrogenated castor oils, having from 1 to 250, better still from 1 to 200, even better still from 10 to 150, always better still from 20 to 100, moles of ethylene oxide; and more preferably among oxyethylenated hydrogenated castor oils with INCI names: PEG-25 Hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-30 Hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-35 Hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-40 Hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-45 Hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-50 Hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-54 Hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-55 Hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-60 Hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-65 Hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-80 Hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-100 Hydrogenated castor oil, and PEG-200 Hydrogenated castor oil, and mixtures thereof.
10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the total content of non-ionic surfactant(s) (iii) is greater than or equal to 0.2% by weight; preferably ranges from 0.2% to 2.4% by weight; more preferably greater than or equal to 0.25% by weight; more preferably ranges from 0.25% to 2% by weight; better still ranges from 0.3% to 1% by weight; even better still ranges from 0.3 to 0.6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the weight ratio of the total content of non-ionic surfactant(s) (iii) to the total content of perfuming substance(s) (ii) ranges from 4.5 to 6.1; preferably from 5 to 6.
12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one C2-C8 polyol; preferably chosen from C2-C8 diols and C3-C8 triols; more preferably from diglycerin, glycerin, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentane-1,2-diol, octane-1,2-diol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethylene glycol, and mixtures thereof; even more preferably from glycerin, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, and mixtures thereof; and still better glycerin.
13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one sequestering agent; preferably chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, its salts and their mixtures.
14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, free of silicone.
15. Process for treating keratin materials comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin materials the composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 14.
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