Extract of defatted almonds of Carapa procera and its cosmetic uses.

Abstract

Cosmetic use of defatted almond extracts of Carapa procera from the Meliaceae family intended to be placed in contact with the various superficial parts of the human body in order to reduce pigmentation and signs of aging such as lack of radiance, wrinkles, loss of firmness and elasticity.

Description

Title of the invention: Extract of defatted almonds of Carapa procera and its cosmetic uses.

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition or a composition intended to be placed in contact with the various superficial parts of the human body (epidermis, hair and scalp systems, nails, lips and external genital organs) or with the teeth and oral mucosa, with a view, exclusively or mainly, to cleaning them, perfuming them, changing their appearance, protecting them, keeping them in good condition or correcting body odors and characterized in that it comprises at least one aqueous, glycerinated or hydroalcoholic extract of delipidated Carapa procera almonds of the Meliaceae family having the property of reducing pigmentation and signs of skin aging such as lack of radiance, wrinkles, loss of firmness and elasticity.

[0002] It is known that more and more cosmetics are trying to claim a more organic, more ecological, more natural mode of action with the new ISO 16128 standard, vegan, and even a slow cosmetics approach (ecological, healthy, intelligent, and reasonable) that takes into account the skin's real needs, advocating the use of fewer ingredients (skinimalism) to achieve better results, even frugality, positive contributions for the skin, and realistic promises. One response to this concern could be plant extracts with multiple, multifunctional, and complementary properties that are sufficient on their own and therefore do not require the addition of other active substances in cosmetic formulations.

[0003] Many people believe that the skin surface to which cosmetics are applied is a dead and inert structure. In fact, this is not the case, and the epidermis, including its outermost stratum corneum, is the site of intense biochemical reactions. Activators, inhibitors, and inhibitors of inhibitors ensure a balance and homeostasis that vary with the time of day, the seasons, and age. Each epidermal cell, and particularly the keratinocytes, which are the predominant cells of the epidermis, exhibits a complex and intricate metabolism leading to cell maturation and differentiation under the control of the expression of the 36,000 genes and variants that comprise them.

[0004] It is then easy to imagine the interest of being able to select and test plant substances on the expression of all these genes in order to be able to select the most interesting extracts and develop the most efficient extraction and production methods.

[0005] Among all the plants studied, the African Carapa procera, from the Meliaceae family, has numerous and well-known properties when used as a whole, and particularly its oil. Indeed, Carapa procera oil, called Touloucouna oil in Senegal, is a medicinal oil rich in properties, used for a wide variety of internal and external treatments. It reduces skin inflammation and is effective against psoriasis, scalp problems, and insect bites, as well as in cases of rheumatism, ringworm, and ulcers. It has even been the subject of an international application W02009155497A1.

[0006] However, the use of oil is not always appreciated by users in cosmetics. Therefore, there is a need to provide other non-lipid captive forms of Carapa procera africana for cosmetic or therapeutic purposes.

[0007] One of the aims of the invention is to provide a non-greasy composition.

[0008] Another object of the invention is to propose the use of such a composition in the context of a cosmetic application.

[0009] In the context of the invention, a water-soluble extract of a plant or part of a plant, such as almonds, is understood to be the result of any extraction in a water-soluble solvent, such as water itself, a hydroethanolic solution, or glycerin, and which can serve as a cosmetically acceptable vehicle and therefore be directly formulatable to produce a final cosmetic composition. These extracts can be formulated directly at concentrations of approximately 0.1% to 5%, or stored in a dry state after evaporation of the water or water plus ethanol, or even as is in the case of a glycerin solvent.

[0010] It is from the observation that plants very often contain a significant amount of lipids which hinder the release of substances of interest and require the use of complex solvents other than simple water, hydroethanolic solvents or vegetable glycerin that the idea came about to separate, beforehand, these lipids from the rest of the plant to be extracted.

[0011] It was by studying the properties of different aqueous extracts of Carapa procera kernel after delipidation obtained after one or more successive cold pressings, on the expression of genes of normal human keratinocytes that the applicant discovered quite unexpectedly that these extracts of Carapa procera had many properties of interest to healthy skin and therefore to cosmetics particularly those concerned with minimalist formulas since a given multifunctional extract could have many complementary properties and reduce the use of many different active substances.

[0012] The invention therefore relates to a cosmetic composition comprising a water-soluble extract of delipidated almonds of African Carapa procera of the Meliaceae family, and a cosmetically acceptable vehicle.

[0013] Therefore, a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition intended to be placed in contact with the various superficial parts of the human body (epidermis, hair and scalp systems, nails, lips and external genital organs) or with the teeth and oral mucosa, with a view exclusively or mainly to cleaning them, perfuming them, changing their appearance, protecting them, keeping them in good condition or correcting body odors and characterized in that it comprises at least one water-soluble extract of delipidated almonds of African Campa procera of the Meliaceae family having the effect of reducing the pigmentation of healthy skin after topical application as well as its signs of aging.

[0014] The applicant has indeed tested several aqueous or hydroethanolic extracts of Campa procera on the complete genome of normal human keratinocytes, and particularly by analyzing genome-wide gene expression (36,000 transcribed genes and variants) of normal human epidermal keratinocytes following the extraction of total transcribed Ribonucleic Acids (RNA) and subsequent hybridization on Deoxyribonucleic Acid (DNA) microarrays. The principle of the DNA microarray is based on the property of denatured DNA (single strand) to spontaneously reform its double helix when in the presence of a complementary strand (hybridization reaction). Since it is possible to attach up to one million probes to a biochip, DNA microarrays thus constitute a mass-market approach that the inventor has used, as they allow, in a single experiment, an estimation of the expression of tens of thousands of genes.

[0015] Advantageously, said cosmetically acceptable vehicle is also that used as solvent during extraction and is chosen from water with or without enzyme, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture.

[0016] Also advantageously, said water-soluble extract of Campa procera almonds is made from almonds previously defatted by cold pressing, one to three times successively, in order to obtain a content of 10% or less by mass of lipids relative to the total mass of the almonds.

[0017] Even more advantageously, said water-soluble extract of defatted almonds comprising less than 1% by mass of lipids relative to the total mass of the extract, in particular 0% to 1% by mass of lipids relative to the total mass of the extract.

[0018] In the context of the invention, "from 0% to 1% by mass of lipids" means that the extract may comprise 0, 0.25, 0.5, 0.75, 1% by mass of lipid relative to the mass of the extract.

[0019] Also within the scope of the invention, said extract of defatted Campa procera almonds was rendered water-soluble by solubilization in a solvent selected from water with or without enzyme, a hydroethanolic solution, or a water / glycerol mixture before being used as is in the composition or stored after complete drying before being resolubilized in the same cosmetically acceptable solvents prior to use.

[0020] Advantageously, the composition is characterized in that said water-soluble extract of delipidated Campa procera africana almonds represents from 0.1% to 5% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0021] In the context of the invention, "from 0.1% to 5% by mass" means that the composition may comprise 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9, 2, 2.1, 2.2, 2.3, 2.4, 2.5, 2.6, 2.7, 2.8, 2.9, 3, 3.1, 3.2, 3.3, 3.4, 3.5, 3.6, 3.7, 3.8, 3.9, 4, 4.1, 4.2, 4.3, 4.4, 4.5, 4.6, 4.7, 4.8, 4.9 or 5% by mass of delipidated extract relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0022] The effects of different plant extracts on gene expression in Normal Human Epidermal Keratinocytes (NHEK) were investigated. More specifically, a full transcriptome analysis, i.e., the analysis of all genes expressed at a given time, was performed using the Affymetrix GeneAtlas platform and the U219 "full human transcriptome" chip containing 36,000 so-called transcribed genes and variants.

[0023] This method, described in more detail in the examples below, allows us to choose, based on the genes stimulated, i.e. whose expression is significantly increased, or inhibited, i.e. whose expression is significantly reduced, the most interesting plants for cosmetic use and which has shown the interest of Campa Procera from the Meliaceae family among other plants thus tested.

[0024] Then, by selecting the most relevant gene or genes, this method allows for the selection of the optimal protocol(s) to obtain the best possible results. Here, for Campa procera, the IGFBP-3 gene (Insulin-like Growth Factor Binding Protein-3) was used to determine that it was the delipidated kernels, subsequently extracted in a simple solvent, that resulted in an expression increase of more than 34-fold in these normal human keratinocytes (NHEK). The relative expression of this IGFBP-3 gene in control keratinocytes had a signal intensity of 38.09, while in keratinocytes exposed to the water-soluble extract of Campa procera thus selected, there was a signal intensity of 1299.26, representing a stimulation of the expression of this gene, called a fold change or rate of modification, under the experimental conditions, of more than 34-fold (34.11).

[0025] This made it possible to determine an optimum when the extraction was carried out in simple solvents such as water, hydroethanolic mixtures in which the ethanol is then recycled after complete evaporation or mixtures of water and glycerin, whose moisturizing properties for the skin are well established.

[0026] These tests demonstrate the value of a cosmetic composition characterized in that it consists of a water-soluble extract of defatted almonds of African Campa procera from the Meliaceae family, obtained by mechanical separation of the almonds contained in the seeds, followed by one or more cold pressings of the almonds, after or without prior roasting, followed by oven drying for 1 to 5 hours at a temperature between 50°C and 60°C to prevent the proliferation of microorganisms, then by extraction or maceration in water with or without added enzymes, a hydroethanolic solution, or a water / glycerol mixture, or by maceration in glycerol alone, and which can then be filtered or centrifuged and stored and used directly in its respective solvent, or again dried, or even freeze-dried or zeodrated, having the effect, using a single multifunctional extract,to reduce pigmentation of healthy skin after topical application, as well as its signs of aging.

[0027] The invention also relates to a water-soluble extract of defatted almonds of African Campa procera of the Meliaceae family characterized in that it comprises water with or without enzyme, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture and that it is prepared from 10% by weight of defatted almonds then dried from the solvent used for extraction or maceration.

[0028] Which makes it possible to obtain a water-soluble extract of delipidated almonds of African Campa procera of the Meliaceae family characterized in that it is intended to be applied to healthy skin to reduce its pigmentation and its signs of aging which are lack of radiance, wrinkles, loss of firmness and elasticity as well as its dehydration.

[0029] Or more precisely a water-soluble extract of defatted almonds of African Campa procera of the Meliaceae family for the treatment or prevention of hyperpigmentation of healthy skin and its skin aging particularly when skin cells do not synthesize enough IGFBP-3 (Insulin-like Growth Factor Binding Protein-3) as during their aging or senescence or when there is an interest in reducing their synthesis of kinectin 1 (KTN1), LUC7-like (LUC7L3), golgin A or Calpastatin (CAST), genes promoting the synthesis of melanins and therefore epidermal hyperpigmentation.

[0030] Here we mean hyperpigmentation of the skin as excessive skin pigmentation from an aesthetic point of view but without any pathology and which can therefore be improved or corrected by the topical use of a cosmetic.

[0031] Indeed, IGFBP-3 is a true marker of aging that decreases when senescence is induced in skin cell culture by hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) compared to cells that remain young. Therefore, there is a cosmetic benefit to increasing its expression in a physiological manner. Kinectin-1 (KTN1), in association with endogenous kinetin, is essential for the maturation and migration of melanosomes within the dendrites of the melanocyte tubulin before the cell transfers its melanosomes to keratinocytes, a process responsible for pigmentation. Reducing kinectin-1 by up to 90% will allow for localized and cosmetic reduction of pigmentation. Reducing the expression of LUC7L3, a splicing factor, the apoptotic process, and Golgin A, which acts on tubulins, also contributes to this reduction in pigmentation. This is achieved through contact with various superficial parts of the human body, thus providing a cosmetic effect. Similarly, the decrease in calpastatin expression, with the signal intensity dropping from 33.24 to 0.09 (more than a 90% reduction in the expression of this gene), inhibits calpain, which is involved in alpha-MSH-induced melanogenesis. Calpain acts on tyrosinase, a target of many cosmetics seeking to reduce skin pigmentation, as demonstrated by Ohguchi K et al. Involvement of calpain in melanogenesis of mouse B16 melanoma cells. Mol Cell Biochem. 2005 Jul;275(l-2): 103-7. doi:10.1007 / sll010-005-1081-0. PMID: 16335789.

[0032] The invention further relates to the cosmetic use of water-soluble extract of defatted almonds of African Campa procera of the Meliaceae family intended for use in the treatment and / or prevention of hyperpigmentation and skin aging characterized in that the aqueous, hydroethanolic or hydroglycerin extracts are capable of improving the expression of IGFBP-3 and reducing those of KTN1, LUC7L3 of Golgin A or CAST optimized by the analysis of gene expression at the genome level (36000 transcribed genes and variants) of normal human epidermal keratinocytes and by hybridization on DNA microarrays.

[0033] Advantageously, the invention relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a composition as defined above, the hyperpigmentation of healthy skin and its aging skin particularly when skin cells do not synthesize enough IGFBP-3 (Insulin-like Growth Factor Binding Protein-3) as during their aging or senescence or when there is an interest in reducing their synthesis of kinectin 1 (KTN1), LUC7-like (LUC7L3), golgin A or Calpastatin (CAST), genes promoting the synthesis of melanins and therefore epidermal hyperpigmentation

[0034] For cosmetic use, the interest then becomes apparent in a composition comprising a water-soluble extract of defatted almonds of African Campa procera of the Meliaceae family, characterized in that it is in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion, a multiple emulsion (O / W / O, W / O / O), a microemulsion, a twin-phase emulsion, a PIT emulsion, a nano-emulsion, pseudoemulsion, aqueous gel, oily gel, hydroalcoholic gel, suspension, freeze-dried gel or emulsion and / or one of the preceding forms containing microcapsules, nanocapsules, liposomes, ethosomes and which may be presented as creams, serums, liquids, pastes, lotions, emulsions, gels, solids, powders, masks, sticks, sprays, aerosols.

[0035] As well as a composition comprising a water-soluble extract of delipidated almonds of African Campa procera of the Meliaceae family, which composition is in the form of a two-phase micellar makeup remover, a foaming gel, a jelly lotion, an exfoliant, a moisturizing cream, a moisturizing serum, a wrinkle-enhancing serum, a moisturizing body lotion, a regenerating mask, a regenerating cream, a slimming body cream, an anti-aging cream, a regenerating serum, a balm, a mist, an eye treatment, a concentrate, or a detoxifying mask.

[0036] All this therefore allows the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a composition for topical application on healthy skin in order to use a multifunctional extract which allows both the reduction of its pigmentation and its signs of aging, in particular the lack of radiance of the skin, wrinkles, loss of firmness and elasticity of the skin as well as its dehydration.

[0037] A cosmetic skincare method for healthy skin to prevent and slow down pigmentation and aging of healthy skin comprising the topical administration of a cosmetic composition of a water-soluble extract of defatted Campaprocera almonds and optimized by the use of full genome expression analysis of cultured human keratinocytes (NHEK) in order to determine all of its properties as well as the optimization of its preparations, the association of enzymes or not during the extraction or maceration steps, the interest or not of prior roasting, the % of defatted and dried almonds or the nature of the final drying and characterized both by an increase in the expression of certain genes of interest and by a decrease in the expression of other genes of interest.

[0038] This water-soluble extract of defatted Campa procera africana almonds from the Meliaceae family also induces a healing response with cytoskeletal remodeling and secretion of MMPs (MMP9, MMP7), thus promoting cell migration of healthy skin cells. Tested at 0.066 mg / ml, this extract induced morphological changes related to cell cohesion (increased KRT1, DSC1, DSG1, SPRR2A, SPRR2D, KLK7) as well as an inhibition of certain keratinocyte differentiation markers (FLG, IVL) with: MMPS (Matrix Metallopeptidase) proteins that enable remodeling of the extracellular matrix, having polymorphic genes such as MMP7 for matrilysin and MMP9 for Matrix Metallopeptidase 9. And the following genes are useful for the maturation of the epidermal stratum corneum: KRT1 for Keratin 1 of the cytoskeleton DSC1 stands for Desmocollin, an adhesive protein of cell-cell junctions at desmosomes and a member of the cadherin family. DSG1 for desmoglein-1 also located at the desmosomes SPRR2A and SPRR2D for Small Proline Rich protein 2A and 2B which are antimicrobial proteins which are rearranged during the terminal differentiation of the epidermal stratum corneum to form the corneal envelopes. KLK7 stands for kallikrein-related peptide 7, a chymotrypsin-type serine protease capable of cleaving corneodesmosomes, thus promoting and coordinating desquamation. The FLG and IVL genes represent profilaggrin, a constituent of keratohyalin granules, and involucrin, a constituent of the epidermal corneal envelope. Thus, this water-soluble extract of defatted almonds of African Campa procera from the Meliaceae family increases cell cohesion and slows down epidermal differentiation and therefore desquamation while remaining physiological, leaving more time for the epidermis to build itself up better and thus allowing it to better correct the signs of aging.

[0039] The compound also induced an inhibition of the proliferation / division process by inhibiting genes encoding cyclins or genes related to cell division (CDC27, CDC37, CDCA8, CDC16, CDC73) and by stimulating the IGFBP3 gene (involved in negative regulation of cell proliferation). CDC stands for Cell Division Cycle and IGFBP3 for Insulin-like Growth Factor Binding Protein-3, which is also related to cell divisions because it promotes apoptosis through the interaction between transferrin, fibronectin, and plasminogen. IGFBP3 is above all a marker of aging because it decreases during senescence induced by H2O2 (In particular, the expression level of IGFBP-3 was decreased in senescent and H2O2-induced old cells compared with young cells) Sugyeong Hong et al. IGFBP-3 plays an important role in senescence as an aging marker.Environmental in Toxicology and Pharmacology Elsevier April 2018 In the studies described above, full transcriptome IGFBP3 was overexpressed 34.11 times more compared to the control, and the expression of the various cyclins was reduced between 36% and 50%. Kinectin 1 also shows reduced expression of more than 90%, and since it plays an important role interacting with kinesin in the transfer of melanosomes into the dendrites of melanocytes before their essential transfer to keratinocytes for skin pigmentation, as shown by Vancoillie G et al., kinesin and kinectin 1 can associate with the melanosomal surface and form a link with Microtubules in normal human melanocytes. J Invest Dermatol. 2000 Mar; 114(3):421-9. doi: 10.1046 / j.1523-1747.2000.00896.x. PMID: 10692099. Its reduction of more than 90% by these extracts of defatted almonds of Campa procera makes it an extract of choice for reducing and controlling skin pigmentation in a cosmetic way.

[0040] The invention also relates to the aforementioned composition, for its use in the treatment or prevention of hyperpigmentation of healthy skin and its skin aging, in particular hyperpigmentation of healthy skin and its skin aging linked to an under-expression of IGFBP-3 (Insulin-like Growth Factor Binding Protein-3) of skin cells, or in the context of the over-expression of genes promoting melanin synthesis, such as kinectin 1 (KTN1), LUC7-like (LUC7L3), golgin A or Calpastatin (CAST).

[0041] Examples are given below without being limiting in order to illustrate the invention.

[0042] Example 1. Obtaining water-soluble extracts of delipidated Carapa procera almonds. Extracts of defatted almonds of African Campa procera from the Meliaceae family are made by mechanically separating the almonds from the seeds and then by one or more cold pressings of the almonds, after or without prior roasting, followed by drying in an oven for 1 to 5 hours at a temperature between 50°C and 60°C to avoid the proliferation of microorganisms, then by extraction or maceration in water with or without added enzymes, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture or even maceration in glycerol alone and can then be filtered or centrifuged and stored and used directly in their respective solvent or again dried or freeze-dried or even zeodrated. They can therefore include water with or without enzyme, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture and be prepared from 10% by weight of defatted almonds then dried from the solvent used for extraction or maceration. These extracts can be tested directly or they can be dried, dehydrated, freeze-dried or zeodrated before testing. In the latter cases they are rehydrated or diluted with purified water acting as a solvent. We will call the extracts obtained and used in the following examples ECP (for Carapa Procera Extract).

[0043] Example 2. Tests and examples of results. The biological model: Third-pass normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK) cultured at 37°C and 5% CO2. Culture medium supplemented with EGF at 0.25 ng / ml and EP at 25 µg plus gentamicin 25 µg. The assay medium consisted of SFM keratinocytes with only gentamicin 25 µg / ml. Experimental conditions: Keratinocytes were seeded in 24-well plates and cultured in culture medium for 24 hours, then in test medium for an additional 24 hours. The medium was then replaced with test medium containing or not (control) the compounds under investigation, and the cells were incubated for 24 hours. All experimental conditions were performed in triplicate (n=3). At the end of incubation, the culture supernatants were removed and the cell mats were rinsed with a PBS solution. The plate was immediately frozen dry at -80°C. Prior to extraction, the culture replicates were pooled. Total RNA from each sample was extracted using TriPure Isolation Reagent® according to the protocol recommended by the supplier. The quantity and quality of RNA were assessed by capillary electrophoresis (Bioanalyzer 2100, Agilent). The synthesis of biotinylated antisense RNAs (aRNAs) was carried out using the "GeneChip 3'IVT Express" kit (Affymetrix®). For each biotinylated RNA sample, an electrophoretic profile was performed (Bioanalyzer 2100, Agilent) before and after fragmentation. The hybridization of labeled and fragmented RNAs on the Affymetrix® U219 chip (36,000 transcripts and variants) was carried out on the GeneAtlas™ fluidics Affymetrix ® hybridization station for 20 hours at 45 °C. The U219 chips were then scanned using the GeneAtlas™ Imaging station (Affymetrix® - 2 pm resolution) to generate signal intensity data as shown in the result examples below. Signal intensity data were normalized using Expression Console software (Affymetrix®), based on the RMA algorithm. Quality control of the labeling and hybridization was then performed. Quality controls of the hybridization and labeling steps validated the experimental process Once normalized with Expression Console software, the data were transferred and formatted in a Microsoft Excel file. Calculations and filters have been added to these files to sort the data and facilitate its use. The "fold change" thresholds or rate of change (value corresponding to the ratio: signal intensity value of a probe corresponding to the treated sample / signal intensity value of a probe corresponding to the control) were defined and applied to the normalized data. The following abbreviations are used in the analysis files: - UR: Upregulated - overexpression or stimulation of the probe or gene when the fold change is greater than 2, - DR: Downregulated - underexpression or inhibition of the probe or gene when the fold change is less than 0.5. Each analysis file consists of: - The signal intensity value (RE: Relative Expression) corresponding to each of the samples, - Calculations of "fold change" or rate of change for each comparison, - Information relating to each gene. The filters inserted into these files allow the selection of significantly modulated genes. The example of gene probes corresponding to the variation in expression of IGFBP3 and KTN1 thus obtained with this methodology with ECP for delipidated almond extract of Campa Procera, the numbers indicated correspond to the intensity of the signal obtained for the control and for the ECP assay: Signal intensity for IGFNP3 (Insulin-like Growth Factor Binding Protein-3): - probe 1 - Witness: 38.09 - ECP: 1299.21 - Change rate: 34.11 - Regulation: UR Signal intensity for IGFNP3 (Insulin-like Growth Factor Binding Protein-3): - probe 2 - Witness: 32.66 - ECP: 1043.07 - Change rate: 31.94 - Regulation: UR Signal intensity for KTN1 (Kinectin 1 or Kinesin receptor): - probe 3 - Witness: 636.88 - ECP: 52.41 - Change rate: 0.08 - Regulation: DR Signal intensity for KTN1 (Kinectin 1 or Kinesin receptor): - probe 4 - Witness: 532.45 - ECP: 42.41 - Change rate: 0.08 - Regulation: DR

[0044] In the examples below, which give examples of the realization of these compositions, without this list being exhaustive, the following abbreviations will be used, ECP for Extract of delipidated almonds of Carapa Procera.

[0045] Example 3. According to a first embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises: - Acrylate C10-30........................................................0.50 g - Arginine............................................................0.001g - Glycerin..................................................................................1.00 g - ECP..........................................................................................0.20 g - Alcohol..................................................................2.00 g - Carbomer................................................................................0.126 g - EDTA..............................................................................................0.005 g - Preservative......................................................................0.867 g - Carapa Oil..........................................................................0.5 g - Hydrogenated lecithin.....................................................0.09 g - Hyaluronic acid....................................................................0.20 g - TEA 99%...................................................................................0.62 g - Colorings........................................................................0.0002 g - Demineralized water qsp.................................................................100 g After 4 weeks of use, 25 volunteers aged 20 to 70 years old saw their skin appear significantly more hydrated.

[0046] Example 4. According to a second embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises: Carboxypolymethylene or carboxylic polymer..................0.40 g Diethanolamine cetylphosphate............................................1.50g Octyl dodecanol............................................................5.50 g Cetyl alcohol..................................................................1.00 g Mineral oil.................................................................2.00 g Stearic acid............................................................1.00 g Sterylic alcohol ethoxylate (20 E)...........................................0.30 g Ketostearyl alcohol....................................................1.80 g Preservative................................................................0.15 g Carapa Oil..............................................................0.50 g Triethanolamine..........................................................0.60 g Cyclomethicone............................................................12.00 g Dimethicone copolyol........................................................3.00 g Phenyl trimeticone...........................................................2.00 g ECP................................................................................3.00 g Dextran.........................................................................1.00 g Glycerin.............................................................................2.00 g Demineralized water qsp........................................................100 g After 4 weeks of use on 25 volunteers, skin appeared smoother just 2 hours after each application. At the end of the treatment, the number, length, and width of wrinkles had significantly decreased, and 90% of users reported more hydrated skin.

[0047] Example 5. Oil-in-water emulsion: - Liquid paraffin.................................................6 g - Liquid lanolin................................................................3 g - Arlacel 165................................................................6 g - Tween 60...................................................................2 g - Cetyl alcohol................................................................1.2 g - Stearic acid.................................................2.5 g - Arginine........................................................................0.5 g - Volatile silicone oil...................................................10 g - Triethanolamine................................................................0.1 g - Preservative....................................................................0.3 g - ECP..........................................................................5 g - Hyaluronic acid.......................................................0.5 g - Demineralized water qsp.....................................................100 g After 4 weeks of twice-daily use by 25 volunteers aged 33 to 70, the skin appeared significantly firmer for 100% of users.

[0048] Example 6. Liposome cream: - Cetyl alcohol.............................................................................4 g - B-sitosterol...................................................................................4 g - Dicetyl phosphate................................................................................0.5 g - Preservative..............................................................................0.3 g - Carbopol 981 ...................................................................0.2 g - Triethanolamine.........................................................................0.2 g - Phospholipid........................................................................................0.05 g - ECP..................................................................................1.5 g - Demineralized water qsp................................................................100 g After use on a panel of 25 volunteers aged 18 to 70, the skin appeared significantly hydrated during the 3 hours of the first application and firmer for 65% of users after 4 weeks of use.

[0049] Example 7. Water / Oil Emulsion: - Protégin.......................................................................19g - Glycerin....................................................................................3 g - Vaseline oil.........................................................................8 g - Mg sulfate.............................................................................0.5 g - ECP............................................................................0.5 g - Hyaluronic acid.................................................................0.02 g - Preservative............................................................2 g - Demineralized water qsp.............................................................100 g

[0050] Example 8. O / W gel emulsion - Carbopol 981 .........................................................0.6 g - Ethyl alcohol..........................................................................15 g - Volatile silicone oil...............................................................3 g - Jojoba oil.............................................................................7 g - Preservative............................................................0.3 g - Perfume...................................................................0.4 g -ECP..........................................................................................0.1g

[0051] Example 9. Glycerin Concentrate - Glycerin...................................................................65 g -ECP..................................................................................................5 g - Arginine..........................................................................................1 g - Hyaluronic acid....................................................... 1 g - Perfume..............................................................0.4 g - Demineralized water qsp...............................................................100 g

Claims

Demands

1. Cosmetic composition comprising a water-soluble multifunctional extract of defatted almonds by cold pressing, one to three times successively, of African Campa procera of the Meliaceae family, and a cosmetically acceptable vehicle which may advantageously be that used as a solvent during the extraction.

2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein said cosmetically acceptable vehicle is also that used as solvent during extraction and is selected from water with or without enzyme, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture.

3. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2 characterized in that said water-soluble extract of Campa procera almonds is made from almonds previously delipidated by cold pressing, one to three times successively, in order to obtain a content of 10% or less by mass of lipids relative to the total mass of the almonds.

4. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 3, said water-soluble extract of defatted Campa procera almonds comprising less than 1% by mass of lipids relative to the total mass of the extract, in particular from 0% to 1% by mass of lipids relative to the total mass of the extract.

5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4 characterized in that said extract of defatted Campa procera almonds has been made water-soluble by solubilization in a solvent selected from water with or without enzyme, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture before being used as is in the composition or stored after complete drying before being resolubilized in these same cosmetically acceptable solvents before use.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5 is characterized in that said water-soluble extract of delipidated Campa procera africana kernels represents from 0.1% to 5% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion, a multiple emulsion (O / W / O, W / O / O), a microemulsion, a twin-phase emulsion, a PIT emulsion, nano-emulsion, pseudo-emulsion, aqueous gel, oily gel, hydroalcoholic gel, suspension, freeze-dried gel or emulsion and / or one of the preceding forms containing microcapsules, nanocapsules, liposomes, ethosomes and which may be presented as creams, serums, liquids, pastes, lotions, emulsions, gels, solids, powders, masks, sticks, sprays, aerosols.

8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, said composition being in the form of a two-phase micellar makeup remover, a foaming gel, a jelly lotion, an exfoliant, a moisturizing cream, a moisturizing serum, a wrinkle-enhancing serum, a moisturizing body lotion, a regenerating mask, a regenerating cream, a slimming body cream, an anti-aging cream, a regenerating serum, a balm, a mist, an eye treatment, a concentrate, or a detoxifying mask.

9. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 8, for topical application to healthy skin for the purpose of using a multifunctional extract to reduce both pigmentation and signs of aging, including lack of radiance, wrinkles, loss of firmness and elasticity, and dehydration.

10. A cosmetic skincare method for preventing and slowing down pigmentation and aging of healthy skin comprising the topical administration of a cosmetic composition of a water-soluble extract of defatted Campa procera almonds and optimized by the use of full genome expression analysis of cultured human keratinocytes in order to determine all of its properties as well as the optimization of its preparations, the association of enzymes or not during the extraction or maceration steps, the interest or not of prior roasting, the % of defatted and dried almonds or the nature of the final drying and characterized both by an increase in the expression of certain genes of interest and by a decrease in the expression of other genes of interest.