HAIR TREATMENT PROCESS
The hair treatment process with superabsorbent polymers and acrylic polyacid salts addresses excessive sebum issues, reducing migration and enhancing hair volume and appearance.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2023013572
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Utility models
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2023-10-25
- Filing Date
- 2023-12-05
- Publication Date
- 2025-12-12
- Estimated Expiration
- 2033-12-05
AI Technical Summary
Existing hair care products are ineffective in addressing excessive sebum issues, leading to oily, flat, and difficult-to-style hair, while also failing to provide a voluminous appearance.
A hair treatment process using a composition comprising superabsorbent polymers, such as starches grafted with acrylic polymers, and acrylic polyacid salts, which absorb and control sebum, providing a voluminous appearance.
The process effectively reduces sebum migration and enhances hair volume, offering a non-wet and quick-drying sensation with good sebum control.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: HAIR TREATMENT PROCESS technical field
[0001] The present invention relates to a hair treatment process. STATE OF THE ART
[0002] Consumers, particularly Chinese consumers, are seriously concerned about oily hair. Sebum is first secreted by the sebaceous gland on the scalp, then can migrate along the hair fibers from root to tip due to gravity, friction, and capillary action. This creates a vicious cycle: the closer the hair fibers are together, the more the capillary action accelerates the migration of liquid sebum along the fibers.
[0003] Excessive sebum secretion leads to numerous undesirable scalp problems. Oxidation by reactive oxidizing species or metabolism of scalp sebum by the microflora can trigger inflammatory factors, which can lead to long-term dysfunction such as scalp sensitivity, dandruff, or even hair loss. Furthermore, its migration through the hair shaft can make it flat, lifeless, difficult to style, or stringy (with hairs sticking together), giving it a greasy, shiny appearance and causing an unpleasant odor.
[0004] Excessive sebum secretion on the scalp makes hair oily and alters its appearance, particularly its voluminous appearance.
[0005] In addition, the presence of sebum reduces the perceived freshness on the scalp.
[0006] There are many products developed to solve the problems caused by excess sebum.
[0007] For example, US document 5137715A discloses a hair conditioning shampoo composition consisting substantially of: (a) about 1% to about 20% by weight of an anionic cleansing surfactant; (b) about 0.1% to about 2.5% by weight of a substantially non-crosslinked polymeric amidoamine; and (c) a suitable carrier comprising water; wherein the composition has a pH in the range of about 2.5 to less than 7.
[0008] However, many products on the market are not effective against excess sebum, so they cannot give hair a voluminous appearance.
[0009] It is therefore desirable to have an effective solution against excess sebum, capable of reducing the problems caused by abundant sebum and giving to hair has a voluminous appearance. Summary of the invention
[0010] An object of the present invention is therefore to develop a hair treatment process which can reduce problems caused by abundant sebum and give hair a voluminous appearance.
[0011] Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention proposes a hair treatment process comprising the application to the hair of a composition comprising: a. at least one superabsorbent polymer selected from starches grafted with an acrylic polymer; and b. at least one acrylic polyacid salt.
[0012] The inventors have discovered that the process according to the present invention can effectively combat sebum and make hair volumized.
[0013] According to a second aspect, the present invention proposes a use of a combination of at least one superabsorbent polymer chosen from starches grafted with an acrylic polymer and at least one acrylic polyacid salt to volumize hair.
[0014] Other subjects and features, aspects and advantages of the present invention will become even clearer upon reading the detailed description and examples that follow. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0015] According to the first aspect, the composition used in the process of the present invention comprises: a. at least one superabsorbent polymer selected from starches grafted with an acrylic polymer; and b. at least one acrylic polyacid salt. Superabsorbent polymer
[0016] The composition used in the process of the present invention comprises at least one superabsorbent polymer selected from starches grafted with an acrylic polymer.
[0017] The term "superabsorbent polymer" is intended to designate a polymer which, in its dry form, is capable of spontaneously absorbing at least 20 times its own weight of aqueous fluid, in particular water, and especially distilled water. Such superabsorbent polymers are described in "Absorbent Polymer Technology, Studies in Polymer Science 8" by L. Brannon-Peppas and R. Harland, published by Elsevier, 1990.
[0018] Advantageously, said superabsorbent polymer is selected from starches grafted with a homo- or copolymer acrylic, in particular starches grafted with sodium polyacrylate. Specifically, the acrylic polymer can be a homopolymer or a copolymer, in particular sodium polyacrylate.
[0019] These polymers have a high capacity for absorbing and retaining water and aqueous fluids. After absorption of the aqueous liquid, the polymer particles thus saturated with aqueous liquid remain insoluble in the aqueous liquid and thus retain their individualized particulate state.
[0020] The superabsorbent polymer can have a water absorption capacity ranging from 20 to 2000 times its own weight (i.e., from 20 g to 2000 g of water absorbed per gram of absorbent polymer), preferably from 30 to 1500 times, and even better from 50 to 1000 times. These water absorption characteristics are defined under standard conditions of temperature (25 °C) and pressure (760 mmHg, i.e., 100,000 Pa) and for distilled water. The value of the water absorption capacity of a polymer can be determined by dispersing 0.5 g of polymer(s) in 150 g of a water solution, waiting for 20 minutes, filtering the unabsorbed solution through a 150 qm filter for 20 minutes and weighing the unabsorbed water.
[0021] The superabsorbent polymer used in the composition of the invention is in the form of particles. Preferably, the superabsorbent polymer has, in dry or non-hydrated form, an average size less than or equal to 100 µm and preferably less than or equal to 50 µm, for example ranging from 1 to 100 µm, preferably from 5 to 50 µm and even better from 7 to 30 µm.
[0022] The average particle size corresponds to the average mass diameter (D50) measured by laser particle size analysis or other equivalent method known to those skilled in the art. Once hydrated, these particles swell, forming soft particles with an average size ranging from 10 µm to 2000 µm.
[0023] Such polymers are known for their gelling properties and are generally used in pre-swollen form in aqueous phase.
[0024] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the super-absorbent polymer(s) used comprises 85% to 95% by weight of sodium polyacrylate and 5% to 15% by weight of starch. Preferably, it / they is / are composed of 90% by weight of sodium polyacrylate and 10% by weight of starch.
[0025] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the number average molecular weight of the superabsorbent polymer(s) used is greater than 1000 daltons.
[0026] In particular, we can mention starches grafted with an acrylic polymer and in particular with sodium polyacrylate, such as those sold under the name Sanfresh ST-100MC by Sanyo Chemical Industries or Makhnousse 25, Makhnousse 12 or Ma-kimousse 7 by Daito Kasei (INCI name: Sodium polyacrylate starch).
[0027] The superabsorbent polymers used in the present invention may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked.
[0028] The superabsorbent polymers used in the present invention are preferably starches grafted with an acrylic homo- or copolymer, in particular sodium polyacrylate, which is in particulate form.
[0029] Preferably, the superabsorbent polymer is chosen from starches grafted with an acrylic homopolymer, preferably in the form of particles having an average size (or average diameter) less than or equal to 100 microns, more preferably in the form of particles, so that the hairs will not stick together, thus reducing the migration of sebum induced by the capillary force and will therefore have a voluminous appearance.
[0030] With the presence of superabsorbent polymers, the composition of the present invention can give a non-wet and quick-drying sensation.
[0031] On the other hand, since superabsorbent polymers have a good affinity with the skin, this results in good fixation of the absorption beads, which can give good sebum control efficiency.
[0032] Advantageously, the superabsorbent polymer is present in the composition used in the process according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% by weight to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight, most preferably from 0.2% by weight to 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Polyacrylic acid salts
[0033] The composition used in the process of the present invention comprises at least one acrylic polyacid salt.
[0034] Suitable acrylic polyacid salts for use in the present invention include, but are not limited to, acrylic polyacid metal salts.
[0035] The acrylic polyacid salt can be partially or totally neutralized.
[0036] The acrylic monomers of the acrylic polyacid salts according to the invention can be neutralized in a proportion of 90% to 100%.
[0037] Their examples include sodium, potassium, lithium and ammonium salts of acrylic polyacid.
[0038] The most preferred salt of polyacrylic acid is sodium polyacrylate.
[0039] Sodium polyacrylates are acrylic homopolymers in partially or totally neutralized form, and they are hydrophilic.
[0040] According to the invention, the expression "hydrophilic polymer" refers to a non-amphiphilic polymer that is soluble and dispersible in water.
[0041] In a preferred embodiment, said polyacrylate is sodium polyacrylate designated by CAS number 9003-04-7. Sodium polyacrylate is, for example COSMEDIA SP sold by BASF or COVACRYL® MV60 sold by SENSIENT.
[0042] Sodium polyacrylate sold under the name Cosmedia SP® contains 90% dry matter and 10% water.
[0043] Advantageously, the polyacrylic acid salt is present in the composition used in the process according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 5% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1% by weight to 3% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight, most preferably ranging from 0.2% by weight to 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0044] The inventors of the present invention have discovered that a combination of at least one superabsorbent polymer chosen from starches grafted with an acrylic polymer and at least one salt of acrylic polyacid can give a good sebum control effect and volumize hair.
[0045] It is preferable that the weight ratio between the superabsorbent polymer and the polyacrylic acid salt be 1:4 to 4:1, so that a good balance of the suspension required by the composition and the preferred hair feel can be achieved. Aqueous phase
[0046] The composition used in the process of the present invention may further comprise a continuous aqueous phase.
[0047] Said aqueous phase is preferably present in an amount ranging from 50% by weight to 99.5% by weight, more preferably from 70% by weight to 99.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0048] The aqueous phase comprises water.
[0049] Water is preferably present in the composition used in the process of the present invention in an amount ranging from 50% by weight to 99.5% by weight, preferably from 60% by weight to 99.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0050] Optionally, the continuous aqueous phase comprises one or more water-miscible organic solvents (at room temperature of 25 °C) such as, for example, monoalcohols having 2 to 6 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol; polyols having 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferably having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (having in particular from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as mono-, di- or tri-propylene glycol (Ci-C4)alkyl ethers, mono-, di- or tri-ethylene glycol (Ci-C4) alkyl ethers and their mixtures.
[0051] In some embodiments, the aqueous phase comprises one or more miscible organic solvents selected from monoalcohols having 2 to 6 carbon atoms; polyols having 2 to 20 carbon atoms; glycol ethers having 3 to 16 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from ethanol, glycerin and mixtures thereof.
[0052] Where appropriate, the composition used in the process of the present invention comprises 0.1% by weight to 80% by weight of a water-miscible organic solvent mentioned above, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0053] In some embodiments, the continuous aqueous phase comprises ethanol in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 50% by weight, preferably from 1% by weight to 45% by weight, more preferably from 5% by weight to 40% by weight, even more preferably from 10% by weight to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. cosmetic active ingredients
[0054] Optionally, the composition used in the process of the present invention includes one or more additional active ingredients to revitalize keratinous materials.
[0055] A person skilled in the art can select the quantity of additional active ingredients according to the desired objective. Adjuvants
[0056] The composition used in the process according to the present invention may also include additional adjuvants, such as perfumes, preservatives, etc.
[0057] A person skilled in the art can choose the quantity of additional adjuvants so that it does not have a negative impact on the final use of the composition according to the present invention.
[0058] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition used in the process of the present invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition:
[0059] a) from 0.2% by weight to 0.8% by weight of starches grafted with sodium polyacrylate; and
[0060] b) from 0.2% by weight to 0.8% by weight of sodium polyacrylate. Preparation and use
[0061] The composition used in the process according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing ingredients a) and b), as essential ingredients, as well as additional ingredient(s), as explained above.
[0062] With the use of said composition, the process according to the present invention can reduce problems caused by abundant sebum and give hair a voluminous appearance. EXAMPLES
[0063] The following examples are given by way of non-limiting illustrations of the present invention.
[0064] The main raw materials used, their trade names and suppliers are listed in Table 1.
[0065] [Tables 1] INCI Name Trade Name Supplier SODIUM POLY-ACRYLATE STARCH MAKIMOUSSE™ 25 DAITO KASEI KOGYO SODIUM POLY-ACRYLATE COVACRYL® MV60 SENSIENT ETHANOL ETHANOL ABSOLU ANHUI ANTE FOOD CARBOMER POLYMER CARBOPOL® ULTREZ 10 LUBRIZOL VP / VA COPOLYMER LUVISKOL® VA 64 POWDER BASF
[0066] Inventive Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4
[0067] The compositions of inventive examples (El) 1 and 2 and comparative examples (EC) 1 to 4 were prepared with the components listed in Table 2 (the contents are expressed as percentages by weight relative to the total weight of each composition, unless otherwise indicated):
[0068] [Tables2] Components El. 1 EI.2 EC. 1 EC. 2 CE. 3 EC. 4 SODIUM POLYACRYLATE STARCH 0.3 0.3 0 0 0.3 0 SODIUM POLYACRYLATE 0.3 0.3 0 0 0 0.3 ETHANOL 30 0 30 30 30 30 CARBOMER 0 0 0.6 0 0 0 VP / VA COPOLYMER 0 0 0 0.6 0 0 WATER QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100
[0069] The compositions of inventive examples 1 and 2 are compositions used in the process according to the present invention.
[0070] The compositions of comparative examples 1 and 2 do not include at least one superabsorbent polymer selected from starches grafted with an acrylic polymer and at least one acrylic polyacid salt.
[0071] The composition of comparative example 3 does not include at least one acrylic polyacid salt.
[0072] The composition of comparative example 4 does not include at least one superabsorbent polymer selected from starches grafted with an acrylic polymer.
[0073] Preparation procedure:
[0074] Each composition was prepared as follows, taking the composition of inventive example 1 as an example: 1. Adding water to a main container, 2. Addition of sodium polyacrylate starch and sodium polyacrylate under stirring; and 3. Add ethanol to the main container while stirring to obtain a homogeneous composition.
[0075] Evaluation:
[0076] The anti-sebum migration effect and the volumizing appearance of the hair offered by each composition prepared above were evaluated. Anti-sebum migration
[0077] Strands of 100% white hair were used for this test; a pre-wash reset was performed with a standard shampoo. The compositions of inventive examples 1 and 2 and comparative examples 1 to 4 were evaluated in this test.
[0078] 2.5 g of a test composition were applied to each strand, each A lock of hair was then fixed onto a support.
[0079] After preheating to 40 °C, 100 qL of artificial sebum were collected using an automatic micropipette and applied to the end of a spatula.
[0080] The strand of hair was then wrapped around a rigid ruler, and the artificial sebum was spread evenly from the spatula over a calibrated length of 3 cm, which was separated by 1.5 cm from the support.
[0081] A timer was started and the sebum front was observed after 20 minutes, 40 minutes, 2 hours, 24 hours and 48 hours. The migration distance was measured and recorded at these times. Hair volumized appearance
[0082] 6 g of natural hair strands were used for this test; a pre-wash of The reset was performed using a standard shampoo. The compositions of inventive examples 1 and 2 and comparative examples 1 to 4 were evaluated in this essay.
[0083] 0.3 g of oleic acid was applied to each wick, then 1.5 g of a composition The test was applied to each strand.
[0084] After drying, each strand was combed five times and the volume of each strand was observed and noted from 1 to 5 according to the following criterion.
[0085] 5: very good; separate and distinct appearance of hair fibers.
[0086] 4: Overall good; very good volumized appearance of the hair, fibers not brittle completely separated.
[0087] 3: acceptable; good voluminous hair appearance, with some fibers sticky.
[0088] 2: slightly mediocre and unacceptable; the hair lacks volume with sticky fibers.
[0089] 1: mediocre, unacceptable, fibers sticking together, tow-like appearance hair.
[0090] The sebum migration distance and the average scores regarding the volumized appearance of hair offered by the compositions of inventive examples 1 and 2 and comparative examples 1 to 4 have been summarized in Table 3.
[0091] [Tables3] Properties El. 1 El. 2 EC. 1 EC. 2 EC. 3 EC. 4 Sebum migration distance (cm) 20 min 5.1 5.3 5.5 5.5 5.4 5.7 40 min 5.5 5.7 6.0 6.2 6.0 6.3 2h 5.8 6.3 6.6 6.7 6.7 6.9 24h 6.4 6.8 7.2 7.5 7.3 7.6 48h 6.9 7.4 9.0 8.2 8.2 8.4 Note regarding the volumized appearance of hair 5 4 2 2 3 3
[0092] It can be seen in Table 3 that the process using each composition of inventive examples 1 and 2 results in good anti-sebum performance and can give the hair a good volumized appearance.
Claims
Demands
1. Hair treatment process comprising the application to the hair of a composition comprising: a) at least one superabsorbent polymer selected from starches grafted with an acrylic polymer; and b) at least one acrylic polyacid salt.
2. Process according to claim 1, wherein the superabsorbent polymer is selected from starches grafted with an acrylic homo- or copolymer, in particular starches grafted with sodium polyacrylate.
3. A process according to any one of claims 1 to 2, wherein the polyacrylic acid salt is selected from the metal salts of polyacrylic acid, preferably, the polyacrylic acid salt is selected from the sodium, potassium, lithium and ammonium salts of polyacrylic acid, more preferably, the polyacrylic acid salt is sodium polyacrylate.
4. A process according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the weight ratio between the superabsorbent polymer and the acrylic polyacid salt is 1:4 to 4:
1.
5. A process according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the composition further comprises a continuous aqueous phase.
6. Process according to claim 5, wherein the aqueous phase comprises water, preferably in an amount from 50% by weight to 99% by weight, preferably from 60% by weight to 99% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
7. A process according to any one of claims 5 to 6, wherein the continuous aqueous phase comprises one or more water-miscible organic solvents, preferably selected from monoalcohols having 2 to 6 carbon atoms; polyols having 2 to 20 carbon atoms; glycol ethers having 3 to 16 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from ethanol, glycerin and mixtures thereof, preferably in an amount from 0.1% by weight to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
8. A process according to claim 6, wherein the continuous aqueous phase comprises ethanol in an amount from 0.1% by weight to 50% by weight, preferably from 1% by weight to 45% by weight, plus preferably from 5% by weight to 40% by weight, even more preferably from 10% by weight to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
9. A process according to claim 1, wherein the composition comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition: a) 0.2% to 0.8% by weight of starches grafted with sodium polyacrylate; and b) 0.2% to 0.8% by weight of sodium polyacrylate
10. Use of a combination of at least one superabsorbent polymer selected from starches grafted with an acrylic polymer and at least one acrylic polyacid salt for hair volumizing.