An aqueous sorbet-type composition comprising a polymer derived from (alkyl)acrylic acid, a polysaccharide, and a colorant, and a cosmetic process implementing it.
A composition of (C1-C6)alkyl acrylic acid polymers, polysaccharides, and colorants addresses the challenge of providing a refreshing, stable, and non-sticky gel/sorbet texture on keratinous materials, ensuring excellent coverage and color disappearance.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- LOREAL SA
- Filing Date
- 2023-10-30
- Publication Date
- 2026-05-22
AI Technical Summary
Existing cosmetic compositions fail to provide a pleasant gel/cream or sorbet-like texture with refreshing sensation, excellent coverage, and non-sticky, non-drying feel on keratinous materials, while maintaining stability at elevated temperatures.
A composition comprising polymers derived from (C1-C6)alkyl acrylic acid, polysaccharides, and colorants, which transforms into a gel with a sorbet-like appearance upon application, providing refreshing sensation and stable texture without stickiness or drying, and disappearing color.
The composition offers a pleasant, stable, and refreshing texture on keratinous materials, maintaining non-sticky and non-drying properties, with color disappearance after application, and remains stable at temperatures above 45°C for weeks.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Aqueous sorbet-type composition comprising a polymer derived from (alkyl)acrylic acid, a polysaccharide and a coloring agent, and a cosmetic process implementing it
[0001] The present invention relates to a preferably cosmetic composition comprising i) at least one polymer derived from (Ci-C6)alkyl acrylic acid and its salts, ii) at least one polysaccharide, iii) at least one colorant, and iv) water; the use of said composition in cosmetics; and a method for treating keratinous materials by applying said composition to said materials. Technical field
[0002] It is of great interest to provide texture to keratinous materials, particularly human materials such as skin, for cosmetic products. Furthermore, it is desirable to make available compositions with a pleasant texture, particularly of the gel / cream or even "sorbet" type, offering specific sensations, especially refreshing ones, upon application.
[0003] In addition to providing compositions with a pleasant gel / cream or even "sorbet" texture, it is desired that after application on keratinous materials, there will be excellent coverage and little or no color after application on said materials.
[0004] The idea is to find a composition, particularly a cosmetic one, which, after massage, allows the liquid to flow, through the transformation of a physical property, such as a gel / cream, into a liquid. Ideally, this transformation would occur during the application of the composition. It would then be desirable that, once applied to the materials, there be no sticky or drying sensation on the treated materials.
[0005] These technical problems have been solved by the composition according to the invention.
[0006] Thus, the object of the invention is a composition, in particular a cosmetic one, comprising:
[0007] i) at least one polymer derived from (Ci-C6)alkyl acrylic acid and its salts, comprising a repeating unit of formula (I):
[0008] [Chem.l]
[0009] formula (I) in which:
[0010] * R1 and R2, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C6)alkyl group such as methyl, preferably R1 and R2 represent a hydrogen atom,
[0011] * M+ represents a cationic counterion, preferably an alkali metal, alkaline- earthy or ammonium, more preferably M+ represents an alkali metal such as sodium;
[0012] * y represents an integer greater than or equal to 2;
[0013] * z is zero, or represents a number greater than zero; preferably y > z;
[0014] ii) at least one linear or branched polysaccharide (or polyoside), preferably branched, more particularly comprising the combination of sugars selected from glucose, mannose, and glucuronic acid, associated or not with a (keto)(Ci-C6)alkyl carboxylic acid such as pyruvic acid or such as xanthan gum;
[0015] iii) at least one coloring material, in particular a dye and / or pigment, absorbing in the visible spectrum and / or at least one pigment, preferably black, such as charcoal black, Yellow 5, Red 33, Blue 1; and
[0016] iv) water.
[0017] The invention also relates to the use of the cosmetic composition, in particular in the care of keratinous materials, especially human ones such as skin.
[0018] Another object of the invention is a method for treating keratinous materials, in particular human such as skin, by applying to said materials the composition according to the invention.
[0019] The composition of the invention exhibits excellent rheology and a very pleasant feel. Once applied to keratinous materials, particularly human skin, the composition transforms into a gel with a sorbet-like appearance and a refreshing sensation. Furthermore, keratinous materials treated with the composition of the invention are not sticky, and the color disappears upon application or immediately after application to said keratinous materials, particularly skin.
[0020] Moreover, the composition of the invention remains stable over time even at a temperature greater than or equal to 45 °C after several weeks, and even after one or two months.
[0021] For the purposes of the present invention, and unless otherwise indicated:
[0022] By "polymer(s)" is meant one or more homopolymer(s) (i.e., resulting from the polymerization of identical synthons), one or more copolymer(s) (i.e., resulting from the polymerization of different synthons), or their mixtures i.e. homopolymers and copolymers.
[0023] By "Cosmetic active ingredient": we mean the radical of an organic or organosilicon compound that can be incorporated into a cosmetic composition to produce an effect on keratinous materials, whether this effect is immediate or produced by repeated applications.Examples of cosmetic active ingredients include coloured or non-coloured, fluorescent or non-fluorescent chromophores such as those derived from optical brighteners, or chromophores derived from UVA and / or UVB filters; anti-aging actives or those intended to provide benefits to the skin such as actives acting on the barrier function, anti-acne actives, deodorant actives other than mineral particles, antiperspirant actives other than mineral particles, desquamating actives, antioxidant actives, moisturizing actives, sebum-regulating actives, actives intended to limit skin shine, actives intended to combat the effects of pollution, antimicrobial or bactericidal actives, anti-dandruff actives, and perfumes.
[0024] By "(hetero)aryl" we mean the aryl or heteroaryl groups;
[0025] By "(hetero)cycloalkyl" we mean cycloalkyl or heterocycloalkyl groups;
[0026] The “aryl” or “heteroaryl” radicals or the aryl or heteroaryl part of a radicals can be substituted by at least one substituent attached to a carbon atom, chosen from:
[0027] - an alkyl radical in Ci-C6, preferably in Ci-C4;
[0028] - a halogen atom such as chlorine, fluorine or bromine;
[0029] - a hydroxy group;
[0030] - a C1-C2 alkoxy radical; a C2-C4 (poly)-hydroxyalkoxy radical;
[0031] - an amino radical;
[0032] - an amino radical substituted by one or two alkyl radicals, identical or different, in Ci-C6, Ci-C6, preferably in CrC4;
[0033] - an acylamino radical (-NR-COR') in which the radical R is an atom of hydrogen,
[0034] - an alkyl radical in Ci-C4 and the radical R' is an alkyl radical in Ci-C4; a radical carbamoyl ((R)2N-CO-) in which the R radicals, identical or not, represent a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical in CrC4;
[0035] - an alkylsulfonylamino radical (R'SO2-NR-) in which the radical R represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical in CrC4 and the radical R' represents an alkyl radical in CrC4, a phenyl radical;
[0036] - an aminosulfonyl radical ((R)2N-SO2-) in which the R radicals, identical or no, they represent a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical in CrC4;
[0037] - a carboxylic radical in acidic or sal form (preferably with a metal alkaline or an ammonium, substituted or not);
[0038] - a cyano group (CN);
[0039] - a polyhalogeno(Ci-C4)alkyl group, preferably trifluoromethyl (CF3);
[0040] The cyclic or heterocyclic part of a non-aromatic radical may be substituted by at least one substituent attached to a carbon atom chosen from the following groups:
[0041] - hydroxy,
[0042] - C2-C4 alkoxy, (poly)hydroxyalkoxy C2-C4,
[0043] - alkylcarbonylamino ((RCO-NR'-) in which the radical R' is an atom of hydrogen, an alkyl radical in Ci-C4 and the radical R is an alkyl radical in Ci-C2, amino substituted by one or two identical or different alkyl groups in CrC4;
[0044] - alkylcarbonyloxy ((RCO-O-) in which the radical R is an alkyl radical in CrC4, amino substituted by one or two identical or different alkyl groups in CrC4;
[0045] - alkcoxycarbonyl ((RO-CO-) in which the radical R is an alkyl radical in CrC4, amino substituted by one or two identical or different alkyl groups in CrC4;
[0046] - a cyclic radical, heterocyclic radical, or a non-aromatic part of an aryl radical or heteroaryl, can also be substituted by one or more oxo groups;
[0047] - a hydrocarbon chain is unsaturated when it comprises one or more double bonds and / or one or more triple bonds;
[0048] an “aryl” radical represents a mono- or polycyclic hydrocarbon group, condensed or not, comprising from 6 to 22 carbon atoms, and of which at least one ring is aromatic; preferably the aryl radical is a phenyl, biphenyl, naphthyl, indenyl, anthracenyl, or tetrahydronaphthyl;
[0049] a "heteroaryl" radical represents a mono- or polycyclic group, condensed or not, comprising 5 to 22 links, 1 to 6 heteroatoms chosen from nitrogen, oxygen, sulfur and selenium atoms, and of which at least one ring is aromatic; preferably a heteroaryl radical is chosen from acridinyl, benzimidazolyl, benzobistriazolyl, benzopyrazolyl, benzopyridazinyl, benzoquinolyl, benzothiazolyl, benzotriazolyl, benzoxazolyl, pyridinyl, tetrazolyl, dihydrothiazolyl, imidazopyridinyl, imidazolyl, indolyl, isoquinolyl, naphthoimidazolyl, naphthooxazolyl, naphthopyrazolyl, oxadiazolyl, oxazolyl, oxazolopyridyl, phenazinyl, phenooxazolyl, pyrazinyl, pyrazolyl, pyrilyl, pyrazoyltriazyl, pyridyl, pyridinoimidazolyl, pyrrolyl, quinolyl, tetrazolyl, thiadiazolyl, thiazolyl, thiazolopyridinyl, thiazoylimidazolyl, thiopyrylyl, triazolyl, xanthylyl;
[0050] a “cyclic” or “cycloalkyl” radical is a non-aromatic cyclic hydrocarbon radical, mono- or polycyclic, condensed or non-condensed, containing from 5 to 22 carbon atoms, which may have from 1 to several unsaturations, preferably the cycloalkyl is a cyclohexyl group;
[0051] a “heterocyclic” or “heterocycloalkyl” radical is a non-aromatic mono- or polycyclic cyclic radical, condensed or not, containing 3 to 9 links, comprising 1 to 4 heteroatoms selected from the nitrogen, oxygen, sulfur and selenium atoms, preferably the heterocycloalkyl is selected from epoxide, piperazinyl, piperidinyl, morpholinyl, or dithiolane;
[0052] an “alkyl” radical is a saturated hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, in particular in Ci-C6, preferably in Ci-C4;
[0053] an "alkenyl" radical is an unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, comprising one or more double bonds, conjugated or not;
[0054] an "alkynyl" radical is an unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, comprising one or more triple bonds, conjugated or not;
[0055] an "alkoxy" radical is an alkyl-oxy radical for which the alkyl radical is a hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, in Ci-C6 preferably in CrC4;
[0056] A "sugar" radical is a monosaccharide or polysaccharide radical, and their O-protected sugar derivatives such as esters of sugars and (C1-C6)alkylcarboxylic acids like acetic acid, sugars with amine group(s) and (C1-C4)alkylated derivatives, such as methylated derivatives like methylglucose. Examples of sugar radicals include: sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose;
[0057] By "monosaccharide", we mean a monosaccharide sugar comprising at least 5 carbon atoms of formula CX(H2O)X, with x an integer greater than or equal to 5, preferably x is greater than or equal to 6, in particular x is inclusively between 5 and 7, preferably x = 6, they may be of D or L configuration, and of alpha or beta anomer, as well as their salts and their solvates such as hydrates;
[0058] By "polysaccharide" is meant a polysaccharide sugar which is a polymer consisting of several monosaccharides linked together by O-saccharide bonds, said polymers being composed of monosaccharide units (also called monosaccharides) as defined above, said monosaccharide units comprising at least 5 carbon atoms, preferably 6, particularly the monosaccharide units being linked together in 1,4 or 1,6 in α (alpha) or β (beta) anomer, each monosaccharide unit being able to have an L or D configuration, as well as its salts and solvates such as the hydrates of said monosaccharides; more particularly, it refers to polymers formed from a certain number of monosaccharides having for general formula: -[Cx(H2O)y)]w- or -[(CH2O)X]W-, with x an integer greater than or equal to 5, preferably x is greater than or equal to 6, in particular x is inclusively between 5 and 7, preferably x = 6, and y an integer that represents x - 1, and w is an integer greater than or equal to 2, particularly inclusively between 3 and 3000, more particularly between 5 and 2500, preferably between 10 and 2300, particularly inclusively between 15 and 1000, more particularly between 20 and 500, preferably between 25 and 200;
[0059] By "sugar with amine group(s)", it is understood that the sugar radical is substituted by one or more amino group(s) NRiR2 i.e. at least one of the hydroxy groups of at least one glycosidic unit of the sugar radical is replaced by an NRiR2 group, with Ri and R2, identical or different, representing i) a hydrogen atom, ii) a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, iii) an aryl group such as phenyl, iv) an aryl(Ci-C4)alkyl group such as benzyl, vii) -C(Y)-(Y')f-R'i with Y and Y', identical or different, representing an oxygen, sulfur or N(R'2) atom, preferably oxygen, f = 0 or 1, preferably 0; and R'i and R'2 representing i) to vi) of Ri and R2 defined previously, and in particular R'i denoting a (Ci-C6)alkyl group such as methyl. Preferably Ri and / or R2 represent a hydrogen atom, or a (Ci-C4)alkylcarbonyl group such as acetyl, and more preferably Ri represents a hydrogen atom and R2 represents a (Ci-C4)alkylcarbonyl group such as acetyl.
[0060] By "organic or mineral acid salt", we mean more particularly organic or mineral acid salts, in particular selected from a salt derived from i) hydrochloric acid HCl, ii) hydrobromic acid HBr, iii) sulfuric acid H2SO4, iv) alkylsulfonic acids: Alk-S(O)2OH such as methylsulfonic acid and ethylsulfonic acid; v) arylsulfonic acids: Ar-S(O)2OH such as benzenesulfonic acid and toluenesulfonic acid; vi) alkoxysulfinic acids: Alk-OS(O)OH such as methoxysulfinic acid and ethoxysulfinic acid; vii) aryloxysulfinic acids such as tolueneoxysulfinic acid and phenoxysulfinic acid; viii) of phosphoric acid H3PO4; ix) of triflic acid CF3SO 3H and x) of tetrafluoroboric acid HBF4;xi) of carboxylic organic acids R°-C(O)-OH (Fz) formula (Fz) in which R° represents a (hetero)aryl group such as phenyl, (hetero)aryl(Ci-C4)alkyl such as benzyl, or (Ci-Cio)alkyl said alkyl group optionally being substituted preferably by one or more hydroxy groups, amino radicals, or carboxy groups, R° preferably designating a (Cr C6)alkyl group optionally substituted by 1, 2 or 3 hydroxy groups, or more preferably the monocarboxylic acids of formula (l'z) are chosen from acetic acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly from acetic acid and lactic acid; and the acids; polycarboxylic acids are selected from tartaric acid, succinic acid, fumaric acid, citric acid and mixtures thereof; and xii) amino acids having more carboxylic acid radicals than amino groups such as gamma-carboxyglutamic acid, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, in particular gamma-carboxyglutamic acid;
[0061] an "anionic counter-ion" is an anion or anionic group associated with the cationic charge; more particularly the anionic counter-ion is selected from i) halides such as chloride, bromide; ii) nitrates; iii) sulfonates including the Ci-C6 alkylsulfonates: Alk-S(O)2O such as methylsulfonate or mesylate and ethylsulfonate; iv) arylsulfonates: Ar-S(O)2O such as benzenesulfonate and toluenesulfonate or tosylate; v) citrate; vi) succinate; vii) tartrate; viii) lactate; ix) alkyl sulfates: Alk-OS(O)O such as methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate; x) arylsulfates: Ar-OS(O)O such as benzene sulfate and toluene sulfate; xi) alkoxysulfates: Alk-OS(O)2O such as methoxy sulfate and ethoxysulfate; xii) aryloxysulfates: Ar-OS(O)2O; xiii) phosphate; xiv) acetate; xv) triflate; and xvi) borates such as tetrafluoroborate;
[0062] the "solvates" represent the hydrates as well as the association with linear or branched Ci-C4 linear or branched alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol, n-propanol;
[0063] By "chromophore" is meant a radical derived from a colorless or colored compound capable of absorbing in the UV and / or visible radiation at a wavelength Xabs between 250 and 800 nm; Preferably the chromophore is colored, i.e., it absorbs wavelengths in the visible range, i.e., preferably between 400 and 800 nm. Preferably, the chromophores appear colored to the eye; particularly between 400 and 700 nm (Ullmann's Encyclopedia, 2005, Wiley-VcH, Verlag "Dies, General Survey", § 2.1 Basic Principle of Color);
[0064] By "UV-A filter" we mean a chromophore derived from a compound which filters (or absorbs) ultraviolet UV-A rays at a wavelength between 320 and 400 nm. We can distinguish between short UV-A filters (absorbing rays at a wavelength between 320 and 340 nm), long UV-A filters (absorbing rays at a wavelength between 340 and 400 nm);
[0065] by "UV-B filter" means a chromophore derived from a compound which filters (or absorbs) ultraviolet UV-B rays at a wavelength between 280 and 320 nm;
[0066] moreover, unless otherwise specified, the bounds delimiting the extent of a range of values are included in that range of values;
[0067] By "fatty substance", for the purposes of the present invention, we mean an organic compound insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg) (solubility less than 5%, and preferably 1%, even more preferably 0.1%); furthermore, fatty substances are soluble in organic solvents under the same conditions of temperature and pressure, such as halogenated solvents such as chloroform, dichloromethane, inferior alcohols such as ethanol or aromatic solvents such as benzene or toluene;
[0068] by "organic or mineral base salts" means base salts or alkali agents as defined below as alkali metal hydroxides such as soda, potash, ammonia, amines or alkanolamines;
[0069] by "cationic counter-ion" means a cation or a cationic group derived from an organic or mineral base salt counterbalancing the anionic charge of the ingredients of formula (!') or (II'); more particularly the cationic counter-ion is chosen from i) alkali metals such as sodium, potassium, preferably Na+, ii) alkaline earth metals such as calcium; iii) ammonium R4N+ with R, identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom, or a (Ci-C6)alkyl group optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups, preferably R represents a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group such as methyl;
[0070] a hydrocarbon chain is unsaturated when it has one or more double bonds and / or one or more triple bonds;
[0071] an "alkyl radical" is a C1-C20 saturated hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, preferably C1-C6, more preferably C1-C4 such as methyl, or ethyl;
[0072] an "alkylene radical" is a saturated hydrocarbon divalent radical as defined above that can contain from 1 to 4 -C=C- double bonds, conjugated or not; particularly the alkylene group contains 1 or 2 unsaturation(s);
[0073] The expression "possibly substituted" attributed to the alkyl radical implies that said alkyl radical may be substituted by one or more radicals chosen from among the radicals i) hydroxyl, ii) alkoxy in C1-C4, iii) acylamino, iv) amino possibly substituted by one or two alkyl radicals, identical or different, in C1-C4;
[0074] an "alkoxy radical" is an alkyl-oxy radical for which the alkyl radical is a hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, in CrCi6 preferably in CrC8;
[0075] the expression "at least one" is equivalent to "one or more"; and
[0076] The expression "inclusively" for a range of concentrations means that the The limits of the range are part of the defined interval.
[0077] i) the polymer(s) derived from (C2-C6) alkyl acrylic acid.
[0078] The composition of the invention comprises i) one or more polymer(s) derived from (Ci-C6)alkyl acrylic acid and its salts, as defined above.
[0079] Preferably the polymer(s) i) is / are chosen from homopolymers.
[0080] According to another embodiment of the invention, the polymer(s) of i) is / are chosen from among the copolymers.
[0081] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the polymer(s) i) comprise a repetition of formula units (I) and formula unit(s) (II):
[0082] -[CH(R')-C(R2)(COO M+)]-(I) and -[CH(R')-C(R2)(COOH)]- (II)
[0083] formula (I) and (II) in which R 1 and R 2, and M + are such as defined previously.
[0084] According to a particular embodiment, the polymer(s) i) of the invention consists of a repetition of unit of formula (I) and of formula (II).
[0085] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the polymer(s) i) of the invention comprise (preferably consist of) a repeating unit of formula (I) and formula (II) in which the molar number of units of formula (I) is greater than or equal to the molar number of units of formula (II), preferably the molar number of units of formula (I) greater than the molar number of units of formula (II).
[0086] According to a particular embodiment, the polymer(s) i) of the invention comprise (preferably consist of) a unit repetition of formula (I) without unit (II).
[0087] According to another particular embodiment, the polymer(s) of the invention i) comprise (preferably consist of) a repeating unit of formula (I) and formula (II) in which the molar number of units of formula (II) is greater than the molar number of units of formula (I).
[0088] The neutralized polymer(s) i) may be neutralized totally or partially. Preferably, the polymer(s) i) is / are partially neutralized, preferably by a metal salt, more preferably by an alkali metal salt, and even more preferably by a sodium salt.
[0089] According to a particular embodiment, the molar ratio of the neutralized parts (units of formula (I)) to the non-neutralized parts (units of formula (II)) of the polymer(s) of the invention is at least 10%, particularly at least 20%, more particularly at least 30%, even more particularly at least 40%, or even at least 50% and / or particularly at most 90%, more particularly at most 80%, even more particularly at most 70%, better at most 60%.
[0090] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises one or more polymer(s) i) as defined above comprising (of preference consisting of) a repetition of unit formula (I) and unit (II) in which R1 and R2 represent a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group such as methyl, preferably a hydrogen atom.
[0091] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises one or more polymer(s) i) as defined above in which M+ represents a cationic counter-ion selected from an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal and ammonium, preferably M+ represents an alkali metal such as sodium.
[0092] Particularly the polymer(s) i) as defined above is / are chosen from among the "superabsorbents", i.e. the polymer(s) is / are capable of absorbing at least 20 times its / their weight in water (i.e. at least 20 grams of water absorbed per gram of superabsorbent polymer - the water absorbance characteristics being defined at room temperature: 25 °C and atmospheric pressure (1 atm.) with distilled water), more particularly at least 50 times its / their weight in water, more particularly capable of absorbing at least 80 times its / their weight in water, preferably the polymer(s) of formula (I) is / are capable of absorbing at least 100 times its / their weight in water.
[0093] The water-absorbing capacity of the polymer(s) can be determined, for example, by dispersing 5 grams (g) of polymer(s) in 150 g of water and waiting from 5 minutes (min.) to 30 min., such as 20 min., filtering the solution through a 150 mm filter in 20 min and weighing the unabsorbed water.
[0094] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the polymer(s) i) as defined above may have a water absorption capacity of 10 g or more, preferably 20 g or more, and more preferably 50 g or more, and / or 2,000 g or less, preferably 1,500 g or less, and more preferably 1,000 g or less, relative to 1 g of the polymer at 25 °C and 1 atm.
[0095] The polymer(s) of the invention i) as defined above is / are particularly derived from the polymerization of:
[0096] a) several monomers, identical (in which case it will be a homopolymer) or different (in which case it will be a copolymer), chosen from:
[0097] - (alkyl)acrylic acids of the following formula (II') HC(R 1 )=C(R 2 )-C(O)OH,
[0098] - the salts of the following formula (I') HC(R 1 )=C(R 2 )-C(O)O ' M + (I') and
[0099] - mixtures of monomers (I'), and (II'); as well as their optical isomers, and / or geometric isomers:
[0100] formulas (I') and (II') in which R1, R2 and M+ are as defined previously;
[0101] a) in the presence of a polymerization initiator (UV-initiator) to lead to polymers of formula (I) as defined above.
[0102] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the polymer(s) of the invention i) as defined above is / are obtained from the polymerization of monomers of formula (II'), said polymer(s) then being neutralized by the use of at least one alkaline agent, preferably the alkaline agent being inorganic, in particular chosen from alkali or alkaline earth metal hydroxides such as soda, potash, alkali or alkaline earth metal (bi)carbonates, preferably chosen from sodium (bi)carbonate and soda, more preferably soda.
[0103] Preferably R1 represents a hydrogen atom, R2 represents a hydrogen atom or an (Ci-C4)alkyl group such as methyl, more preferably R2 represents a hydrogen atom; and M+ preferably represents an alkali metal such as sodium or potassium, more preferably sodium.
[0104] Furthermore, the polymer(s) i) as defined above and the monomers (!') and / or (II') is / are capable of crosslinking in the presence of one or more crosslinking agent(s), said agent(s) may be applied, for example, by spraying, to the surface of said polymer(s), said polymer(s) being more particularly in the form of particles.
[0105] The polymer(s) of i) as defined above may be in the form of particles.
[0106] The polymer(s) i) as defined above is / are preferably in the form of particles and preferably spherical. The average size of the primary particles as D50 (particularly non-hydrated particles) of the polymer(s) i) as defined above is not particularly limited, is generally 0.1 µm or more, preferably 0.5 µm or more, and more preferably 1 µm or more, and / or is 200 µm or less, preferably 100 µm or less, more preferably 50 µm or less.
[0107] The term "D50" here refers to the particle size for which 50% of the particle volume, based on the total particle volume, has a particle size less than or equal to D50.
[0108] The D50 value can be determined by laser diffraction, for example, using a laser diffraction particle size distribution analyzer, such as the Mastersizer 2000 from Malvem Corp.
[0109] The polymer(s) i) as defined may be soluble in water, the polymer(s) i) being able to be included in the aqueous phase, including water, of the composition according to the present invention.
[0110] According to one embodiment of the invention, once hydrated, said particles swell, forming flexible particles having an average diameter inclusively between 10 mm and 300 mm, more particularly between 20 mm and 200 mm, and even more particularly between 40 mm and 150 mm. The particle sizes correspond to the primary particle sizes.
[0111] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the particles of the polymer(s) i) is / are unswollen and have / have an average particle size (average diameter) of between 2 mm and 10 mm, particularly between 4 mm and 50 mm, more particularly between 5 mm and 30 mm, preferably between 10 mm and 20 mm. The particle sizes correspond to the primary particle sizes.
[0112] The polymer(s) i) as defined above is / are preferably crosslinked, and more preferably in the form of particles.
[0113] In a preferred embodiment, the polymer(s) i) as defined above is / are chosen from among the crosslinked homopolymers.
[0114] Among the preferred polymers i) of the invention, one can mention alkali metal, alkaline earth, or ammonium polyacrylates, preferably alkali and alkaline earth metal polyacrylates, more preferably alkali metal polyacrylates such as sodium acrylate, for example those sold under the name AQUPEC, in particular AQUPEC MG N40R, crosslinked and partially neutralized and also called sodium carbomer (or "sodium carbomer" or carbopol), more particularly the polymer(s) i) is / are chosen from among the carbomers, preferably S carbomer or sodium carbomer.
[0115] The amount in the composition of polymer(s) i) as defined above is particularly at least 0.5% by weight, more particularly at least 0.7% by weight, and more preferably at least 0.9% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0116] The amount in the composition of polymer(s) i) as defined above is particularly at most 10% by weight, preferably at most 5% by weight, and more preferably at most 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0117] Particularly the quantity in the composition of polymer(s) i) as defined above shall be from 0.5% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.7% to 4% by weight, and more preferably from 0.9% to 3% by weight, better from 1% to 2% relative to the total weight of the composition. ii) the polysaccharide(s)
[0118] The composition of the invention comprises one or more polysaccharide(s) ii). When there are several polysaccharides, they are structurally different from each other.
[0119] The polysaccharide(s) ü) of the invention is / are of natural or synthetic origin, preferably of natural origin, in particular from microorganisms or plants.
[0120] The polysaccharide(s) ii) may be present in aqueous phase in the composition according to the present invention.
[0121] The polysaccharide(s) ii) can function as hydrophilic thickener(s) capable of thickening the aqueous phase of the composition of the invention.
[0122] Preferably, the polysaccharide(s) are thickening polymers.
[0123] By "thickening polymer" is meant a polymer which, when introduced at 1% by weight into an aqueous or hydroalcoholic solution containing 30% ethanol, and at a neutral pH (i.e. pH = 7), makes it possible to achieve a viscosity of at least 100 cps, particularly at least 500 cps, more particularly at least 1000 cps, preferably at least 2000 cps, more preferably at least 3000 cps, better at least 4000 cps, even better at least 5000 cps, at 25 °C and at a shear rate of 1 s*. This viscosity can be measured using a cone / plate viscometer (Haake R600 rheometer or similar). Preferably the viscosity is between 5000 cps and 7000 cps, more preferably between 5500 cps and 6500, better between 5800 cps and 6100 cps, at 25 °C and at a shear rate of 1 s*. This viscosity can be measured using a cone / plate viscometer (Haake R600 rheometer or similar).
[0124] The polysaccharide(s) ii) is / are cationic, nonionic, anionic or amphoteric polymer(s), preferably nonionic.
[0125] The "polysaccharide(s)" is / are as defined above; furthermore, the sugar motifs -[Cx(H2O)y)]w- or -[(CH2O)X]W- are optionally modified by substitution, oxidation, dehydration, and / or reduction. Preferably, the sugar motifs are not modified.
[0126] As examples of the sugars of the polysaccharide(s) useful to the invention, preferably include glucose; galactose; arabinose; rhamnose; mannose; xylose; fucose; anhydrogalactose; galacturonic acid; glucuronic acid; mannuronic acid; galactose sulfate; anhydrogalactose sulfate and fructose.
[0127] Examples of polysaccharides include those derived from native gums such as those from tree or shrub exudates, algae, seeds or tubers, fungi, bacteria, animal organisms, and plants, such as:
[0128] - gum arabic (branched polysaccharide of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose) and glucuronic acid); - Ghatti gum (polymer derived from arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose and glucuronic acid); - karaya gum (polymer derived from galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); - tragacanth gum (or tragacanth) (polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose and arabinose); - agar (polymer derived from galactose and anhydrogalactose); - alginates (polymers of mannuronic acid and glucuronic acid); - carrageenans and furcelleranes (polymers of galactose sulfate and anhydrogalactose sulfate); - guar gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); - carob gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); - fenugreek gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); - tamarind gum (polymer of galactose, xylose and glucose); - konjac gum (polymer of glucose and mannose); - xanthan gum (polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose / pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid) or dehydroxanthan gum; - gellan gum (polymer of partially acylated glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); - scleroglucan gum (glucose polymer).
[0129] Preferably, the polysaccharide(s) ii) are derived from native gums selected from:
[0130] a) exudates from trees or shrubs including gum arabic; ghatti gum; karaya gum; tragacanth (or tragacanth) gum;
[0131] b) gums derived from algae, including agar; alginates; carrageenans and furcelleranes;
[0132] c) gums from seeds or tubers including guar gum; locust bean gum; fenugreek gum; tamarind gum; konjac gum;
[0133] d) microbial gums including xanthan gum or dehydroxanthan gum; gellan gum; scleroglucan gum;
[0134] e) plant extracts including cellulose; starch; inulin and pectin; and
[0135] f) chitin and chitosan derivatives;
[0136] more preferably the polysaccharide(s) b) are chosen from pullulan, xanthan or dehedro-xanthan gums, and carrageenan.
[0137] According to one embodiment, the composition comprises one or more polysaccharides ii) selected from fucose-galactose-galacturonic acid trisaccharides; particularly composed of residues of fucose, galactose and galacturonic acid, more preferably the polysaccharide(s) is Biosaccharide Gum-1 (223266-93-1) (fermentation gum derived from sorbitol) which is a trisaccharide of the acid aL-fucose( 1 —>3)aD-galactose( 1 —>3)-aD-galacturonic.
[0138] Particularly the polysaccharide(s) is / are selected from a) polysaccharides consisting of combinations of sugars selected from glucose, mannose, and glucuronic acid, associated or not with a (keto)(Ci-C6)alkyl carboxylic acid such as pyruvic acid, more preferably the polysaccharide(s) is / are selected from xanthan gums, b) trisaccharides of fucose-galactose-galacturonic acid; particularly composed of residues of fucose, galactose and galacturonic acid, more preferably the polysaccharide(s) is Biosaccharide Gum-1 (223266-93-1) (fermentation gum derived from sorbitol) which is a trisaccharide of αL-fucose(1->3)αD-galactose(1->3)-αD-galacturonic acid, c) the mixture of a) and b), preferably the mixture of xanthan gum and trisaccharides of αL-fucose(1->3)αD-galactose(1->3)-αD-galacturonic acid (Bisaccharide Gum-1).
[0139] According to another embodiment, the polysaccharide(s) ii) is / are chosen from: celluloses (polymers of glucose); starches (polymers of glucose); inulins; pectins; chitins and chitosans.
[0140] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the polysaccharide(s) ii) is / are non-ionic.
[0141] The polysaccharide(s) of the invention is / are preferably of natural origin. They may be derived from different sources: plants, animals, microbes, fungi, or algae (see, e.g., Gerld O. Aspinall I, The Polysaccharides, Vol. 2, by Academie Press, Inc. ISBN 0-12-065602-7, pp. 1-9 (1983), and Journal of Polymers and the Environment, Vol. 29, pp. 2359-2371 (2021)). According to one embodiment of the invention, the polysaccharide(s) is / are selected from gums of microbial origin.
[0142] For the purposes of the present invention, "gums of microbial origin" means substances synthesized in particular by fermentation of sugars by microorganisms or by fungi.
[0143] The microbial gum(s) may be chosen from among scleroglucan gums, pullulan gums, curdlan gums, grifolan gums, lentinan gums, schizophyllan gums, spirulinan gums and krestin gums.
[0144] Examples include scleroglucan gums produced by Sclerotium rolfsii, pullulan gums produced by Aureobacidium pullulens, curdlane gums produced by Faecalis myxogens, grifolane gums produced by Grifola frondara, lentinan gums produced by Lentinus edodes, and schizophyllan gums produced by Schizophyllum commine. , spirulina gums produced by Spirulina sybsyla and krestin gums produced by Coriates versicolor.
[0145] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the polysaccharide(s) ii) is / are derived from plants refers to a polysaccharide derived from plants or algae.
[0146] By way of non-ionic polysaccharide(s) ii) according to the invention, mention may also be made of those selected from glucans, starches such as those derived, for example, from cereals like wheat, maize or rice, from vegetables like yellow peas, from tubers like potatoes or cassava) or hydroxyalkyl starches such as hydroxypropyl starch, amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, dextran, celluloses and their derivatives such as methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses, carboxymethylcelluloses), mannans, xylans, lignins, arabans, galactans, galacturonans, chitin, chitosan, glucuronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans, pectic acids and pectins, the arabinogalactans, carrageenans, agars, gum arabic, tragacanth gum, ghatti gum, karaya gum, locust bean gum,Galactomannans such as guar gum and their non-ionic derivatives like hydroxypropyl guar, and mixtures thereof.
[0147] Preferably, guar gums, celluloses, pullulans, xanthans and carrageenans, chitosans and their derivatives will be used, preferably pullulans, xanthans, carrageenans, chitosans and more preferably xanthans, xanthan gums.
[0148] The polysaccharide(s) according to the invention may be modified or unmodified.
[0149] Unmodified guar gums are for example the products sold under the name VIDOGUM GH 175 by the company UNIPECTINE, and under the names MEYPRO-GUAR 50 and JAGUAR C by the company Solvay.
[0150] Modified non-ionic guar gums are notably modified by C1-C24 hydroxyalkyl groups, particularly in Ci-C6.
[0151] Among the hydroxyalkyl groups, examples include hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.
[0152] These guar gums are well known from the prior art and can, for example, be prepared by reacting corresponding alkene oxides, such as propylene oxides, with guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum modified by hydroxypropyl groups.
[0153] The degree of hydroxyalkylation, which corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum, preferably varies from 0.4 to 1.2.
[0154] Such non-ionic guar gums possibly modified by hydroxyalkyl groups are for example sold under the trade names JAGUAR HP8, JAGUAR HP60 and JAGUAR HP120, JAGUAR DC 293 and JAGUAR HP105 by the company SOLVAY or under the name GALACTASOL 4H4FD2 by the company AQUALON.
[0155] Among the celluloses, hydroxyethyl celluloses and hydroxypropylcelluloses are used in particular. Examples include products sold under the names KLUCEL EF, KLUCEL H, KLUCEL LHF, KLUCEL MF, KLUCEL G, by the company AQUALON, and CELLOSIZE POLYMER PCG-10 by the company AMERCHOL.
[0156] We can also mention hydroxyalkyl guar derivatives having a long aliphatic chain such as hydroxypropyl guars modified by an aliphatic chain, particularly at C16-C22, such as the product ESAFLOR HM 22 (modified by an alkyl chain at C22) sold by the company LAMBERTI; the product MIRACARE XC 95-3 (modified by an alkyl chain at C1) and the product RE 205-146 (modified by an alkyl chain at C20) sold by SOLVAY
[0157] * non-ionic alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses modified by an aliphatic chain particularly in Ci6-C24 such as the products NATROSOL PLUS GRADE 330 CS and POLYSURF 67 (alkyl in Ci6) sold by the company ASHLAND
[0158] * non-ionic nonoxynyl(hydroxy)ethylcelluloses such as the product AMERCELL HM-1500 sold by the company AMERCHOL;
[0159] * non-ionic alkoxycelluloses modified by an aliphatic chain in particular in Ci4-C26 such as the BERMOCOLL EHM 100, 300, 500 product sold by the Nouryon company;
[0160] * poly(hydroxy)alkoxylated celluloses, in particular modified by groups polyalkylene glycol alkyl phenol ether, such as the product AMERCELL POLYMER HM-1500 (polyethylene glycol (15) nonyl phenol ether) sold by the company AMERCHOL.
[0161] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the polysaccharide(s) ii) is / are derived from plants, in particular:
[0162] a) seaweed extracts, such as alginates, carrageenans and agars, and mixtures thereof. Examples of carrageenans include Satiagum UTC30® and UTC10® from Degussa; examples of alginates include alkali metal or alkaline earth alginates, in particular sodium alginate, in particular that marketed under the name Kelcosol® by ISP;
[0163] b) gums such as guar gum and its non-ionic derivatives (hydroxypropyl guar), gum arabic, konjac gum or mannan gum, tragacanth gum, ghatti gum, karaya gum or gum carob; for example, we can mention guar gum marketed under the name Jaguar HP 105® by the company Rhodia; mannan and konjac gum® (1% gluconomannan) marketed by the company GfN;
[0164] (c) modified or unmodified starches, such as those obtained, for example, from cereals like wheat, maize or rice, legumes like blond peas, tubers like potato or cassava, and tapioca starches; dextrins, such as maize dextrins; by way of example, Remy DR I® rice starch marketed by Remy; Roquette's B® maize starch; potato starch modified with sodium-neutralized 2-chloroethylaminodipropionic acid, marketed under the name Structure Solanace® by National Starch; native tapioca starch powder marketed under the name Tapioca pure® by National Starch;
[0165] d) dextrins such as dextrin extracted from maize under the name Index® from the company National Starch;
[0166] e) Cellulose and its derivatives, in particular alkylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses; and alkyl hydroxyalkyl celluloses; examples include methylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses, ethyl hydroxyethylcelluloses, and carboxymethylcelluloses. Examples include stearyl and cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose. Examples of cetyl hydroxyethylcelluloses include Aqualon's Polysurf 67CS® and Natrosol Plus 330®; and mixtures thereof.
[0167] Preferably, the polysaccharide(s) ii) is / are selected from seaweed extracts, gums and cellulose derivatives, and mixtures thereof.
[0168] More preferably, the polysaccharide(s) ii) is / are chosen from agars, locust bean gum, konjac mannan gum, (C io-C2o)alkyl hydroxyethylcelluloses in particular cetyl or stearyl and tapioca starches.
[0169] According to one embodiment of the invention, the polysaccharide(s) ii) is / are selected from seaweed extracts, and in particular alginates, carrageenans, agars and mixtures thereof. Preferably, alginates or agars, or mixtures thereof, will be used.
[0170] According to another embodiment of the invention, the polysaccharide(s) ii) is / are selected from gums, such as guar gums, arabic gums, mannan gums and konjac gum, locust bean gums, and mixtures thereof.
[0171] According to another embodiment of the invention, the polysaccharide(s) ii) is / are chosen from modified or unmodified starches, more particularly chosen from wheat starches, maize starches, rice starches, potato starches, tapioca starches, and mixtures thereof.
[0172] According to another embodiment of the invention, the polysaccharide(s) ii) is / are chosen from dextrins, such as maize dextrins.
[0173] According to another embodiment, the polysaccharide(s) ii) is / are selected from cellulosic derivatives. Among cellulosic derivatives, hydroxy(Ci-C3)alkyl cellulose, in particular modified by at least one hydrophobic chain, in particular comprising one or more hydrophobic group(s) containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, may be mentioned in particular.
[0174] According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic substituent(s) used may be alkyl, arylalkyl, or alkylaryl groups in the C8-C30 and preferably in the C10-C22-C10 and C10-C20-C10 groups. Preferably, the hydrophobic substituent(s) according to the present invention may be linear or branched, saturated or introductory aliphatic chains (preferably alkyl groups) in the C10-C22 and preferably in the C10-C20 and C10-C20-C16 groups, such as cetyl (C16), stearyl (C18), and behenyl (C20) groups. According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrophobic substituent(s) according to the present invention may be cetyl groups. These cellulosic derivatives with hydrophobic substituent(s) according to the present invention may have a viscosity preferably between 100 and 100,000 m.Pa.s and preferably between 200 and 20,000 m.Pa.s, measured at 25 °C in a solution containing 1% by weight of a polymer in water, this viscosity being determined conventionally using a Brookfield LVT type viscometer at 6 rpm with a No. 3 spindle. Among the cellulosic derivatives with hydrophobic substituent(s) usable in the compositions according to the present invention, cetyl hydroxyethylcelluloses marketed under the names Natrosol Plus Grade 330 CS and Polysurf 67 CS (INCI name: cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose) by the company Aqualon / Hercules may preferably be mentioned.
[0175] In one embodiment, the polysaccharide(s) ii) derived from plants may be chosen from non-cellulosic polysaccharides.
[0176] Preferably, the non-ionic polysaccharide(s) ii) is / are selected from scleroglucan (or sclerotium) gums, guar gums, xanthan gums, celluloses and their derivatives such as hydroxyethylcelluloses, and mixtures thereof, more preferably is / are selected from xanthan gums and scleroglucan (or sclerotium) gums and mixtures thereof, more preferably from xanthan gums.
[0177] According to a particular embodiment, the polysaccharide(s) ii) of the invention is / are linear or branched, preferably branched, more particularly comprising a combination of sugars selected from glucose, mannose, and glucuronic acid, associated or not with a (keto)(C1-C6)alkyl carboxylic acid such as pyruvic more preferentially the polysaccharide(s) is / are chosen from xanthan gums.
[0178] According to one embodiment the composition comprises one or more polysaccharides ii) selected from a mixture of xanthan gum and biosaccharide Gum-1.
[0179] The quantity of polysaccharide(s) ii) in the composition according to the present invention is particularly at least 0.01% by weight, preferably at least 0.05% by weight, and more preferably at least 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0180] On the other hand, the quantity of polysaccharide(s) ii) in the composition according to the invention is particularly 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0181] Particularly the quantity of polysaccharide(s) ii) in the composition according to the invention ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0182] Particularly the mass ratio of ingredients i) / ii) is greater than or equal to 1, more particularly greater than or equal to 2, even more particularly greater than or equal to 3.
[0183] According to a particular embodiment, the mass ratio of ingredients i) / ii) is between 1 and 20, more particularly between 2 and 15, preferably between 3 and 10, better 3.4 to 9, more specifically between 7 and 9. iii) the coloring matter(s)
[0184] The term "coloring material" refers to all compounds that absorb light in the visible spectrum, in particular so as to appear to the human eye as a color such as yellow, orange, red, violet, blue, green, brown, or black. Excluded are colorless compounds, i.e., those that appear colorless, transparent, or white to the eye in the solid state and in solution.
[0185] By way of visual color and absorption wavelength associated with said color the following colors may be cited: "yellow" = Xmax greater than 400 nm up to 440 nm inclusive, "orange" = Xmax greater than 440 nm up to 490 nm inclusive, "red" = Xmax greater than 490 to up to 520 nm inclusive, "purple" = Xmax greater than 520 nm and 560 nm inclusive, "violet" = Xmax greater than 560 nm to 580 nm inclusive, "blue" = Xmax greater than 580 nm up to 620 nm inclusive, "blue-green" = Xmax greater than 620 nm up to 650 nm inclusive, and "green" = Xmax greater than 650 nm up to 780 nm inclusive.
[0186] Preferably, the composition of the invention comprises at least one coloring material selected from pigments, anionic, cationic, zwitterionic, neutral, non-fluorescent or fluorescent direct dyes, and mixtures thereof, more preferably pigments. These coloring materials may be combined with surfactants x), preferably non-ionic, as defined below. Pigments
[0187] According to one embodiment the composition comprises as colouring material(s) iii) one or more pigment(s).
[0188] For the purposes of this invention, "pigment" means any compound capable of imparting color to keratinous materials. These compounds have a solubility in water at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) of less than 0.05% by weight, and preferably less than 0.01% by weight.
[0189] Suitable pigments for the invention may include, in particular, organic and / or mineral pigments known in the art, especially those described in Kirk-Othmer's Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology and Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry.
[0190] These pigments can be synthetic or natural.
[0191] These pigments can be in the form of powder or pigment paste.
[0192] They may be coated or uncoated.
[0193] These pigments can, for example, be chosen from mineral pigments, organic pigments, lacquers, special effect pigments such as mother-of-pearl or glitter, and mixtures thereof.
[0194] A pigment suitable for the invention can be chosen from among mineral pigments.
[0195] By “mineral pigment” is meant any pigment that meets the definition of Ullmann's encyclopedia in the chapter on inorganic pigments. Among the mineral pigments useful in the present invention, we can cite manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue and oxides or dioxides of titanium, zirconium or cerium, as well as oxides of zinc, iron or chromium.
[0196] It may also be a pigment having a structure that is, for example, of the sericite / brown iron oxide / titanium dioxide / silica type. Such a pigment is marketed, for example, under the reference Coverleaf NS or JS by Chemicals And Catalysts and has a contrast ratio close to 30. It may also be a pigment having a structure that is, for example, of the silica microspheres containing iron oxide type. An example of a pigment with this structure is that marketed by Miyoshi under the reference PC Bail PC-LL-100 P, this pigment being composed of silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide.
[0197] Advantageously, the pigments may be iron oxides and / or titanium dioxides.
[0198] A pigment suitable for the invention can be chosen from among organic pigments.
[0199] By "organic pigment" is meant any pigment that meets the definition in the Ullmann Encyclopedia in the chapter on organic pigments. Examples of organic pigments useful in the present invention include nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline, quinoline, anthraquinone, triphenylmethane, fluorane, phthalocyanine, metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, indigo, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, and quinophthalone.
[0200] In particular, colored organic pigments may be selected from carmine, carbon black (or charcoal), aniline black, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, triarylmethane blue, blue pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 74100, 74160, yellow pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 11660, 11680, 11710, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, and in particular Pigment YELLOW 5 (C.1.11660 and CAS 4106-67-6,326).31), the green pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 45370, 71105, the red pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole, phenolic derivatives as described in patent FR 2 679 771. .
[0201] By way of example, we can also cite organic pigment pastes such as the products sold by the company HOECHST under the name: COSMENYL YELLOW IOG: Pigment YELLOW 3 (CI 11710); COSMENYL YELLOW G: Pigment YELLOW 1 (CI 11680); COSMENYL ORANGE GR: Pigment ORANGE 43 (CI 71105); COSMENYL RED R: Pigment RED 4 (CI 12085); COSMENYL CARMINE FB: Pigment RED 5 (CI 12490); COSMENYL VIOLET RL: Pigment VIOLET 23 (CI 51319); COSMENYL BLUE A2R: Pigment BLUE 15.1 (CI 74160); COSMENYL GREEN GG: Pigment GREEN 7 (CI 74260); COSMENYL BLACK R: Pigment BLACK 7 (CI 77266).
[0202] More preferably, the pigment(s) of the invention are chosen from carbon black, iron oxides, in particular yellow, red and black and iron oxide coated micas, triarylmethane pigments, in particular blue and violet, in particular Blue 1 and BLUE 1 LAKE, azo pigments, in particular yellow and red, more particularly D&C RED 33 and D&C Yellow 5, the alkali metal salt of lithol red, in particular the calcium salt of lithol red B, and even more preferentially among red iron oxides, yellow iron oxides and azo pigments, especially red ones, more particularly D&C RED 33 and D&C Yellow 5.
[0203] The pigments according to the invention can also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments can be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core, at least one binder ensuring the fixation of organic pigments on the core, and at least one organic pigment covering at least partially the core.
[0204] The organic pigment can also be a lacquer.
[0205] By "lacquer" is meant colorants adsorbed onto insoluble particles, the whole thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.
[0206] Examples of inorganic substrates on which dyes are adsorbed include alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum. Carminic acid is one example of a dye adsorbed onto organic substrates.
[0207] Other colorants known by the following names may also be mentioned: D&C Red 21 (CI 45380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45410), D& C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D & C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D & C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D & C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D & C Green (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 1 O (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42090), FDC Red 4, D&C Red 6, D&C Red 22, D&C Red 28, D&C Red 30, D&C Red 33 (CI 17200), D&C Orange 4, D&C Yellow 8, D&C Green 5, D&C Red 17, D&C Green 6, D&C Yellow 11, D&C Violet 2, Sudan Red, carotenes (beta-carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan Brown, quinoline yellow, annatto, curcumin, betanin (beetroot), carmine, copper chlorophyllin, methylene blue, anthocyanins (enocyanin, black carrot, hibiscus, elderberry), caramel, riboflavin, beetroot juice and caramel.
[0208] Examples of lacquers include products known under the names D&C Red and Yellow, and preferably D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), and D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), and D&C Blue, and preferably D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).
[0209] The pigment can also be a special effects pigment.
[0210] By "special effect pigments" is meant pigments which generally create a colored appearance (characterized by a certain shade, vibrancy and clarity) that is non-uniform and changes depending on the viewing conditions (light, temperature, viewing angles, etc.). They are contrasted by- there is also the colored pigments that provide a uniform opaque, semi-transparent or classic transparent tint.
[0211] There are several types of special effect pigments, those with a low refractive index such as fluorescent or photochromic pigments, and those with a higher refractive index such as mother-of-pearl, interference pigments or glitter.
[0212] The size of the pigment used in the composition according to the present invention is generally between 10 nm and 200 µm, preferably between 20 nm and 80 µm, and more preferably between 30 nm and 50 µm.
[0213] The pigments can be dispersed within the composition by means of a dispersing agent.
[0214] This dispersing agent may be a surfactant, an oligomer, a polymer, or a mixture of several of these, bearing one or more functionalities having a strong affinity for the surface of the particles to be dispersed. In particular, they may bind physically or chemically to the surface of the pigments. These dispersants further have at least one functional group that is compatible with or soluble in the continuous medium.In particular, esters of 12-hydroxystearic acid are used, especially C8 to C2o fatty acids and polyols such as glycerol, diglycerin, such as poly(12-hydroxystearic acid) stearate with a molecular weight of about 750 g / mol such as that sold under the name Solsperse 21 000 by the company Avecia, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (name CTFA) sold under the reference Dehymyls PGPH by the company Henkel or polyhydroxystearic acid such as that sold under the reference Arlacel P100 by the company Uniqema and their mixtures. Other dispersants that can be used in the compositions of the invention include quaternary ammonium derivatives of polycondensed fatty acids such as Solsperse 17000 sold by Avecia, and polydimethylsiloxane / oxypropylene mixtures such as those sold by Dow Corning under the references DC2-5185, DC2-5225 C.The pigments used in the composition may be surface-treated with an organic agent. In one particular embodiment, the dispersing agent(s) are of the amino-silicone type, different from the alkoxysilanes described above, and are cationic. Preferably, the pigment(s) is / are chosen from mineral, mixed mineral-organic, or organic pigments.
[0215] According to a particular embodiment, the pigment(s) according to the invention are organic pigments, preferably organic pigments treated on the surface by an organic agent chosen from silicone compounds.
[0216] According to another embodiment of the invention, the pigment(s) according to the invention are mineral pigments.
[0217] Direct Dyes
[0218] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the colouring material(s) iii) is / are chosen from one or more direct colouring material(s).
[0219] By "direct dye," we mean natural and / or synthetic dyes, different from oxidation dyes. These are dyes that diffuse superficially onto the fiber. They can be ionic or non-ionic, preferably cationic or non-ionic.
[0220] Among the direct dyes suitable for the invention, mention may be made of azo direct dyes; (poly)methine dyes such as cyanines, hemicyanines and styryls; carbonyl dyes; azine dyes; nitro(hetero)aryl dyes; tri(hetero)arylmethane dyes; porphyrin dyes; phthalocyanine dyes and natural direct dyes, alone or in the form of mixtures.
[0221] According to a particular embodiment, the colouring material(s) is / are chosen from among the direct colorants.
[0222] According to one variant, the direct dye(s) may be chosen from among anionic direct dyes.
[0223] The anionic direct dyes of the invention are dyes commonly referred to as "acid" direct dyes because of their affinity with alkaline substances.
[0224] By "anionic direct dyes" means any direct dye comprising in its structure at least one CO2R' or SO3R' substituent with R' designating a hydrogen atom or a cation from a metal or an amine, or an ammonium ion.
[0225] Anionic direct dyes may be selected from acidic nitro direct dyes, acidic azo dyes, acidic azinic dyes, acidic triarylmethanic dyes, acidic indoamine dyes, acidic anthraquinone dyes, indigoids and acidic natural dyes.
[0226] Among the natural direct dyes that can be used according to the invention are lawsone, juglone, alizarin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, purpurogallin, protocatechaldehyde, indigo, isatin, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidine, and orceins. Extracts or decoctions containing these natural dyes, and in particular henna-based poultices or extracts, can also be used.
[0227] According to one embodiment of the invention, the direct dyes are chosen from among the anionic direct dyes.
[0228] More particularly, the keratin material(s) is / are chosen from pigments, in particular organic pigments such as nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline, quinoline, anthraquinone, triphenylmethane, fluorane, phthalocyanine, of the metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, indigo, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane and quinophthalone.
[0229] In particular, colored organic pigments may be selected from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, azo yellow, quinacridone, blue of phthalocyanine, blue pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 74100, 74160, yellow pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 11660, 11680, 11710, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, and in particular Pigment YELLOW 5 (CI11660 and CAS 4106-67-6,326.31), green pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 61565, 61570, 74260, orange pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 11725, 45370, 71105, the red pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indolic, phenolic derivatives.
[0230] Preferably the composition of the invention comprises one or more pigments, preferably black such as charcoal black; yellow such as D&C Yellow 5; red such as D&C Red 33, and / or blue such as D&C Blue 1.
[0231] More particularly, the composition of the invention comprises at least one colouring material iii), particulate or not, water-soluble or not, at a rate of at least 0.00001% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0232] For obvious reasons, this quantity is likely to vary significantly with regard to the intensity of the color effect sought and the colonic intensity provided by the coloring materials considered and its adjustment clearly falls within the competence of the person skilled in the art.
[0233] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the colouring material(s) iii), preferably the pigments, is / are present in concentrations ranging from 0.00001% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.00005% to 0.5% by weight, more particularly from 0.0001% to 0.05% by weight, more particularly between 0.0001% and 0.03% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0234] The cosmetics industry:
[0235] The composition is preferably cosmetic, i.e. comprises a physiologically acceptable medium.
[0236] The term "physiologically acceptable medium" means a medium suitable for application to keratinous materials, also called a formula carrier, which is a cosmetic or pharmaceutical medium generally consisting of water or a mixture of water and one or more organic solvents or a mixture of organic solvents.
[0237] The composition of the invention further comprises water (iv).
[0238] According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises water in a content inclusively between 0.5% and 99.9% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more particularly between 5% and 95% by weight, preferably between 10% and 90%, even more preferably between 20% and 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0239] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the quantity of water in the composition is greater than or equal to 10%, more particularly greater than or equal to 20%, preferably greater than or equal to 30%, more preferably greater than or equal to 40%, even more preferably greater than or equal to 50%, better greater than or equal to 60%, better greater than or equal to 70%, even better greater than or equal to 80%.
[0240] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises between 10% and 99.9% by weight in water, more particularly between 20% and 98% by weight in water, 30% and 90% by weight in water, even more particularly between 40% and 95% by weight in water, preferably between 50% and 90% by weight in water, more preferably between 60% and 85% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0241] v) Optionally one or more organic solvent(s)
[0242] By "organic solvent" is meant an organic substance capable of dissolving another substance without chemically altering it.
[0243] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition further comprises (v) one or more organic solvent(s), in particular selected from: (a) C2-C6 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; (b) water-miscible polyols at room temperature (25 °C), in particular selected from polyols having, in particular, from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerin, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol, diglycerin, caprylyl glycol (or 1,2-octanediol), butylene glycol; c) polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, and d) aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.
[0244] According to a particular embodiment, the composition further comprises one or more polyols, in particular chosen from polyols having in particular 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerin.
[0245] In a preferred embodiment, 4-(3-ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl)butan-2-one is used in combination with an effective amount of at least one organic solvent, which may be selected from ethanol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, PEG-8 (polyethylene glycol containing 8 ethylene glycol units), propylene carbonate, dipropylene glycol, 1,2-hexylene glycol, and PEG-4. According to another In this embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises as organic solvent(s) v) 1,3-propanediol.
[0246] Preferably, the organic solvent(s) v) is / are chosen from a) and more preferably is / are chosen from ethanol, glycerin, and caprylyl glycol, and their mixture.
[0247] Preferably the organic solvent(s) is / are in a content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight.
[0248] The composition of the invention preferably comprises vi) one or more polar protic organic solvent(s), liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, preferably chosen from alcohols comprising 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 1 to 6 hydroxy groups, preferably the solvent is chosen from ethanol, glycerol, caprylyl glycol, butylene glycol, more particularly ethanol and caprylyl glycol.
[0249] For the composition of the invention, water will be preferred and ethanol as organic solvents.
[0250] The organic solvent(s) v) of the invention is / are preferably present in proportions preferably inclusively between 0.1% and about 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and more preferably between 1% and about 20% by weight and even more particularly inclusively between 5% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. vi) Possibly one or more acid(s)
[0251] According to one embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises vi) one or more organic or inorganic acid(s), preferably one or more organic acid(s).
[0252] Particularly the acid(s) vi) is / are selected from a) HX type acids with X representing a halide such as chloride, bromide; b) inorganic or organic sulfonic acids in particular of formula RS(O)2OH with R representing a linear or branched, cyclic or acyclic, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group, comprising from 1 to 16 carbon atoms, said hydrocarbon group being able to be substituted by one or more hydroxy OH, thiol SH, amino NH2, sulfonic -SO3H, phosphonic -PO3H2, or carboxy -CO2H groups; c) inorganic or organic phosphonic acids in particular of formula R-PO3H2 with R as defined above; and d) carboxylic acids in particular of formula r-co2h with R as defined above, preferably selected from carboxylic acids.
[0253] Preferably the acid(s) vi) is / are chosen from (poly) (hydroxy)carboxylic acids in particular of formula R'-C(O)-OH, with R' representing a hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, acyclic or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or non-aromatic, comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups; preferably R' represents a (Ci-C6)alkyl group optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy or carboxy groups or R' represents an aryl group such as benzyl optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy or carboxy groups.
[0254] Preferably the acid(s) vi) is / are organic(s) and chosen from (poly) (hydroxy)carboxylic and in particular from hydroxy(Ci-C6)alkyl(poly)carboxylic acids such as lactic acid, tartaric acid, or citric acid.
[0255] According to another particular embodiment, the acid(s) vi) is / are organic(s) chosen from (C6-Ci0)aryl(poly)carboxylic acids such as salicylic acid.
[0256] According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises a mixture of different acids, organic and inorganic, cyclic and acyclic, saturated and unsaturated, aromatic and non-aromatic. In particular, the composition comprises at least one hydroxy(Ci-C6)alkyl(poly)carboxylic acid such as lactic acid, tartaric acid, or citric acid and one (C6-CiO)aryl(poly)carboxylic acid such as salicylic acid.
[0257] vii) Optionally one or more alkali agent(s);
[0258] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition of the invention comprises vii) one or more alkali agents (also called bases). This agent may be selected from mineral, organic, or hybrid alkali agents or mixtures thereof.
[0259] The mineral alkali agent(s) are preferably chosen from ammonia, alkali carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium or potassium carbonates and sodium or potassium bicarbonates, sodium or potassium hydroxides or mixtures thereof.
[0260] According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the alkali agent(s) are organic amines, i.e. they contain at least one substituted or unsubstituted amino group.
[0261] The organic alkali agent(s) are more preferably chosen from among the organic amines whose pKb at 25 °C is less than 12, and preferably less than 10, even more advantageously less than 6. It should be noted that this is the pKb corresponding to the highest basicity function.
[0262] As examples of hybrid compounds, mention may be made of the salts of the amines cited above with acids vi) such as those defined above as carbonic acid, hydrochloric acid.
[0263] The organic alkali agent(s) are, for example, selected from alkanolamines, oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, amino acids and compounds of the following formula (IV):
[0264] [Chem. 2]
[0265] (IV)
[0266] Formula (IV) wherein:
[0267] - W is a divalent alkylene radical in the Ci-C6 group, possibly substituted by a hydroxyl group or an alkyl radical in Ci-C6, and / or possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen or NRU;
[0268] - R\ R-, Rz R1 and Ru, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a alkyl radical in Ci-C6 or hydroxyalkyl in Ci-C6, aminoalkyl in Ci-C6.
[0269] Examples of such amines include 1,3-diaminopropane, 1,3-diamino-2-propanol, spermine, spermidine.
[0270] Alkanolamine means an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more linear or branched CrC8 alkyl groups bearing one or more hydroxyl radicals.
[0271] Alkanolamines such as mono-, di- or tri-alkanolamines, comprising one to three hydroxyalkyl radicals, identical or not, in C1-C4, are particularly suitable for carrying out the invention.
[0272] Among compounds of this type, one may mention monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N-dimethylaminoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-l-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-l,3-propanediol, 3-amino-l,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-l,2-propanediol, tris-hydroxymethylaminomethane.
[0273] More specifically, the usable amino acids are of natural or synthetic origin, in their L, D, or racemic form, and comprise at least one acid function chosen more particularly from among carboxylic, sulfonic, phosphonic, or phosphoric acid functions. The amino acids may be in neutral or ionic form.
[0274] As examples of amino acids that can be used in the present invention, the following may be mentioned in particular: aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine, glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine and valine.
[0275] Advantageously, the amino acids are basic amino acids comprising an additional amine function optionally included in a ring or in a ureido function, in particular selected from histidine, lysine, arginine, omithine, citrulline.
[0276] As examples of hybrid compounds, guanidine carbonate or monoethanolamine hydrochloride may be mentioned in particular.
[0277] The composition of the invention particularly contains one or more alkanolamines, and / or one or more basic amino acids, more advantageously, one or more alkanolamines. More particularly, the organic amine is monoethanolamine.
[0278] The alkaline agent(s) are preferably mineral. They are particularly chosen from alkaline carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium or potassium carbonates and sodium or potassium bicarbonates, sodium or potassium hydroxides or mixtures thereof, more particularly sodium or potassium hydroxides, even more preferably sodium hydroxide.
[0279] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention has an alkali agent(s) content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, better from 0.1 to 1% by weight relative to the weight of said composition. viii) The pH#:
[0280] The pH of the composition according to the invention is generally between 4 and 10 inclusive. It can be adjusted to the desired value by means of acidifying or alkaline agents commonly used in dyeing keratin fibers or by means of conventional buffer systems.
[0281] The pH of the composition is preferably inclusively between 4.5 and 8, particularly between 5 and 7 and more particularly between 5.2 and 7.5, better between 5.4 and 6 such as 5.7+ / -0.2.
[0282] Among the acidifying agents, we can mention the acids vi) as defined above, by way of example in particular hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, sulfonic acids.
[0283] Among the alkali agents (or bases) one may mention the alkali agents vii) as defined above, in particular alkali or alkaline-earth metal hydroxides such as sodium or potassium hydroxides, alkali carbonates, alkanolamines and other alkali agents as defined below, preferably alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines, preferably sodium or potassium hydroxides, more preferably sodium hydroxide.
[0284] ix) Optionally one or more oil-absorbing or oleosorbable particle(s)
[0285] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises ix) one or more oil-absorbing particle(s), also called oil-absorbable particle(s) or oil-absorbable particle(s).
[0286] The oleosorbable particle(s) ix) is / are capable of absorbing (and / or adsorbing) an oil (i.e., a liquid fat at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure) such as sebum (from the skin).
[0287] If several oil-absorbing particles are used, they may be identical or different.
[0288] It is preferable that the absorbent particle(s) the oil(s) ix) have an oil absorption capacity of 140 ml / 100 g or more, more preferably 250 ml / 100 g or more, even more preferably 400 ml / 100 g or more, even more preferably 600 ml / 100 g or more, even more preferably 800 ml / 100 g or more, and even more preferably 1000 ml / 100 g or more.
[0289] The oil-absorbing particle(s) ix) may have an oil absorption capacity of 2200 ml / 100 g or less, preferably 2000 ml / 100 g or less, more preferably 1800 ml / 100 g or less, even more preferably 1600 ml / 100 g or less, even more preferably 1400 ml / 100 g or less, and even more preferably 1200 ml / 100 g or less.
[0290] Thus, the oil-absorbable particle(s) ix) can have an oil absorption capacity ranging from 140 ml / 100 g to 2200 ml / 100 g, preferably from 250 ml / 100 g to 2000 ml / 100 g, even more preferably from 400 ml / 100 g to 1800 ml / 100 g, even more preferably from 600 ml / 100 g to 1600 ml / 100 g, even more preferably from 800 ml / 100 g to 1400 ml / 100 g, and even more preferably from 1000 ml / 100 g to 1200 ml / 100 g.
[0291] The quantity of oil(s) absorbed (and / or adsorbed) by the oil-absorbing particle(s) ix) can be characterized by measuring the wet point according to the method described below.
[0292] The oil absorption capacity measured at the "wet point", denoted Wp, corresponds to the quantity of oil(s) that must be added to 100 g of particle to obtain a homogeneous paste.
[0293] The quantity of oil(s) absorbed (and / or adsorbed) can be measured according to the method for determining the oil uptake of a powder described in ISO 787 / 5-1980. It corresponds to the quantity of oil absorbed / adsorbed on the available surface of the powder, by measuring the Wet Point.
[0294] A quantity m (in grams) of the oleo-absorbable particle ix) of between approximately 0.5 g and approximately 5 g (the quantity depends on the density of the particle A small amount (9 g) of oil-absorbable material (ix), but typically 2 g, is placed on a glass plate, and isononyl isononanoate (oil) is then added dropwise. After adding 4 to 5 drops of isononyl isononanoate, it is incorporated into the oil-absorbable material (ix) using a spatula, and the addition of isononyl isononanoate is continued until a conglomerate of isononyl isononanoate and powder has formed. At this point, more isononyl isononanoate is added dropwise, and then the mixture is triturated with the spatula. The addition of isononyl isononanoate is stopped when a firm, smooth paste is obtained. This paste should be able to be spread on the glass plate without cracking or forming lumps. We then note the volume Vs (expressed in ml) of isononyl isononanoate used.
[0295] The oil intake corresponds to the Vs / m ratio.
[0296] In the above protocol for determining the Wet Point, the chosen oil, isononyl isononanoate, can be replaced by oleic acid or linseed oil. Unless otherwise defined, the oil absorption capacities defined in the present invention mean those measured using isononyl isononanoate as the reference oil.
[0297] The oil-absorbing particle(s) ix) may have a volume-average particle size of less than 50 µm, preferably less than 45 µm, and more preferably less than 40 µm. Unless otherwise specified, the particle sizes or average particle sizes defined in the present invention mean volume-average particle sizes.
[0298] The oil-absorbing particle(s) ix) may have an average volume particle size of 1 qm or more, preferably 2 qm or more, more preferably 3 qm or more, and even more preferably 4 qm or more.
[0299] The (primary) particle size of the oleoabsorbable particle(s) viii) may be from 1 to 30 µm, preferably from 2 to less than 25 µm, more preferably from 3 to less than 20 µm, and even more preferably from 4 to less than 15 µm. The (primary) particle size may be measured, for example, by extracting and measuring from a photographic image obtained by scanning electron microscopy (SEM) and the like, using a particle size analyzer such as a laser diffraction particle size analyzer, and the like.
[0300] It is preferable to use a particle size analyzer such as a laser diffraction particle size analyzer. In this case, the (primary) particle size distribution is the (primary) volume-average particle size distribution.
[0301] It is preferable that the oil-absorbing particle(s) ix) be one or more porous particles, in particular one or more porous spherical particles.
[0302] According to another aspect of the invention, the oil-absorbable particle(s) ix) may have a specific surface area BET greater than or equal to 300 m2 / g, for example greater than or equal to 500 m2 / g, such as less than or equal to 600 m2 / g, and less than or equal to 1500 m2 / g.
[0303] The oil-absorbing particle(s) ix) may have a density of 0.01 to 0.9 g / cm3, preferably 0.05 to 0.5 g / cm3, and more preferably 0.1 to 0.3 g / cm3.
[0304] The oil-absorbing particle(s) ix) can be organic or inorganic.
[0305] According to one embodiment of the invention the composition comprises one or more oleoabsorbable particle(s) ix) inorganic.
[0306] The oil-absorbable inorganic particle(s) ix) may have at least one inorganic core and at least one hydrophobic coating.
[0307] The hydrophobic coating(s) ix) may be formed by a hydrophobic treatment agent in particular selected from fatty acids such as stearic acid; metallic fatty acid carboxylates such as aluminium dimyristate, aluminium salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate; amino acids; N-acylamino acids or their salts; lecithin, fatty acid titanates such as isopropyl triisostearyl titanate, mineral waxes and mixtures thereof.
[0308] N-acylamino acids preferably comprise an acyl group containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, or cocoyl. Salts of these compounds include, in particular, salts of oxidation metals I, II, or III, such as aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium, or potassium salts.
[0309] The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.
[0310] The term “alkyl” mentioned in the compounds cited above refers in particular to an alkyl group, linear or branched, containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably containing from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.
[0311] It is preferable that the inorganic oleosorbable particle(s) comprise(s) at least one material selected from silica, in particular hydrophobic silica such as silica silylate, silicate, pearlite, boron nitride, alkali or alkaline earth metal carbonates such as magnesium carbonate, alkali or alkaline earth metal hydroxides such as magnesium hydroxide, kaolin, talc, and mixtures thereof.
[0312] Hydrophobic silica, in particular silica silylate, is in particular made from silica aerogels, i.e. porous materials, obtained by replacing (in particular by drying or other means of solvent evaporation, in particular water) the liquid component of a silica gel with air. They are generally synthesized by a process Sol-gels are heated in a liquid medium and then dried, most often by extraction with a supercritical fluid, the most commonly used being supercritical CO2. This type of drying prevents shrinkage of the pores and the material. The sol-gel process and the various drying operations are well known to those skilled in the art. For example, the method described in detail in the book by Brinker CJ and Scherer GW, *Sol-Gel Science*, New York, Academy Press, (1990).
[0313] The hydrophobic silica aerogel particle(s) may have a specific surface area per unit weight (SW) ranging from 500 to 1500 m² / g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m² / g, and more preferably from 600 to 800 m² / g, and / or a size, expressed as volume-average diameter (D[0.5]), ranging from 1 to 1500 µm, preferably from 1 to 1000 µm, more preferably from 1 to 100 µm, particularly from 1 to 30 µm, even more preferably from 5 to 25 µm, even more preferably from 5 to 20 µm, and even more preferably from 5 to 15 µm
[0314] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particle(s) may have a size, expressed in volume average diameter (D[0.5]), ranging from 1 to 30 µm, preferably from 5 to 25 µm, more preferably from 5 to 20 µm, and even more preferably from 5 to 15 µm.
[0315] The specific surface area per unit weight can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method, known as the BET (Brunauer-Emmett-Teller) method, described in the scientific publication J. Amer. Chem. Soc., Vol. 60, p. 309 (1938), which corresponds to the international standard ISO 5794 / 1 (Annex D). The BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles considered.
[0316] The size(s) of the silica aerogel particle(s) can be measured by static light scattering using a particle size analyzer, for example, a commercial particle size analyzer such as the Malvem MasterSizer 2000. The data are processed based on Mie scattering theory. This theory, accurate for isotropic particles, allows the determination, in the case of non-spherical particles, of an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is notably described in the scientific work by Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small P Articles", Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York (1957).
[0317] According to an advantageous embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particle(s) may have a specific surface area per unit weight (SW) of 600 to 800 m2 / g and a size, expressed as volume mean diameter (D[0.5]), of 5 to 20 µm, and preferably of 5 to 15 µm.
[0318] The silica aerogel particle(s) may advantageously have a packed density (r) ranging from 0.04 g / cm3 to 0.10 g / cm3, and preferably from 0.05 g / cm3 to 0.08 g / cm3.
[0319] In the context of the present invention, this density, referred to as the packed density, can be measured according to the following protocol: 40 g of powder are poured into a graduated cylinder. The cylinder is then placed on a Stampf Volumeter Stav 2003 apparatus and subjected to a series of 2500 packing or tamping operations (this operation is repeated until the volume difference between two consecutive tests is less than 2%). The final volume Vf of packed powder is then measured directly on the graduated cylinder. The packed density is determined by the ratio w / Vf, in this case 40 / Vf (Vf being expressed in cm³ and w in g).
[0320] According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles can have a specific surface area per unit volume SV ranging from 5 to 60 m2 / cm3, preferably from 10 to 50 m2 / cm3, and more preferably from 15 to 40 m2 / cm3.
[0321] The specific surface area per unit volume is given by the relation: SV = SW xp; where p is the packed density expressed in g / cm3 and SW is the specific surface area per unit weight expressed in m2 / g, as defined above.
[0322] By "hydrophobic silica" is meant any silica whose surface is treated with silylizing agents, for example with halogenated silanes, such as halogenosilanes, in particular alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes, such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups with silyl groups -Si(R')3 with R', identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, acyclic or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or non-aromatic, comprising from 1 to 14 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen, preferably the hydrocarbon group is selected from (Ci-C6)alkyl, aryl such as phenyl, and aryl(Ci-C6)alkyl such as benzyl, preferably R' represents a group (Ci-C4)alkyl such as methyl.
[0323] Regarding the preparation of surface-modified hydrophobic silica aerogel particles by silylation, reference may be made to US patent 7,470,725.
[0324] In particular, hydrophobic silica aerogel particles modified on the surface by -Si(R')3 groups as defined above, preferably trimethylsilyl, will be used.
[0325] Examples of oil-absorbing inorganic particle(s) include the charges described below:
[0326] Examples of silica powders include amorphous silica microspheres coated with polydimethylsiloxane, particularly those marketed under the name SA Sunsphere® H33 (oil absorption equal to 243 ml / 100 g), precipitated silica powders surface-treated with a mineral wax, such as precipitated silica treated with polyethylene wax, and in particular those marketed under the name Acematt OR 412 by Evonik-Degussa (oil intake equal to 398 ml / 100 g), Sunsphere® 12 (isononyl isononanoate oil intake equal to 140.6 ml / 100 g) by AGC Si-Tech, and silica silylate marketed under the name VM-2270 (isononyl isononanoate oil intake equal to 1090 ml / 100 g) by Dow Corning.
[0327] Examples of silica powders include porous silica microspheres, in particular those marketed under the names Sunsphere® H53 and Sunsphere® H33 (oil intake equal to 370 ml / 100 g) by Asahi Glass; MSS-500-3H by Kobo; hollow particles of amorphous silica, in particular those marketed under the name Silica Shells by Kobo (oil intake equal to 550 ml / 100 g); the porous silica microsphere marketed under the name Sylysia 350 (oil intake equal to 310 ml / 100 g) by Fuji Silysia Chemical; and silica powder marketed under the name Finesil X35 (oil intake equal to 380 ml / 100 g) by Oriental Silicas.
[0328] Examples of perlite powders include perlite sold under the name of
[0329] Optimat® 1430 OR and Optimat® 2550 OR (isononyl isononanoate oil intake equal to 250 ml / 100 g) by World Minerals, and
[0330] Perlite-MSZ12 (isononyl isononanoate oil absorption equal to 148.2 ml / 100 g) by Miyoshi Kasei Company.
[0331] As a silicate, one can notably mention aluminium silicate which is marketed under the name Kyowaad® 700PEL (oil intake equal to 195 ml / 100 g) by the company Kyowa Chemical Industry.
[0332] As a magnesium carbonate powder, we can mention in particular the product marketed under the name Tipo Carbomagel® by the company Buschle & Lepper (oil intake equal to 214 ml / 100 g).
[0333] As a magnesium carbonate / magnesium hydroxide powder, one can cite in particular the product mMgCO3-Mg(OH)2-nH2O which is marketed under the name Mg Tube (oil intake equal to 250-310 ml / 100 g) by the company Nittesu Mining.
[0334] It is still preferable to use as an oleosorbable inorganic particle, silica silylate marketed under the name VM-2270 by the company Dow Corning, whose particles have an average size ranging from 5 to 15 microns and a specific surface area per unit weight ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g.
[0335] According to another embodiment of the invention the oil-absorbable particle(s) ix) is / are organic.
[0336] The oleosorbable organic particle(s) ix) may comprise at least one material selected from a) polyamide powders (in particular Nylon-6), b) (Ci-C6)(alkyl) acrylic polymer powders and their alcohol esters including (poly)hydroxy(Ci-C2o)alkane or (poly)hydroxy(Ci-C2o)alkene such as methanol, ethanol, ethylene glycol, or allyl alcohol, including polymethyl methacrylate, polymethyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, polyallyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, or ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer; c) silicones; and d) mixtures of a) to d). The above material(s) may be crosslinked.
[0337] It may be preferable that the oleosorbable organic particle(s) ix) be chosen from acrylic polymer powders, in particular ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer, acrylate copolymer, methyl methacrylate copolymer and silicone resins.
[0338] The oleosorbable organic particle(s) ix) may, where appropriate, be treated on the surface by at least one hydrophobic treatment agent.
[0339] According to one embodiment, this hydrophobic treatment agent is chosen from:
[0340] - silicones such as methicones and dimethicones;
[0341] - fatty acids, in particular fatty acids comprising 12 to 22 atoms of carbon, such as stearic acid;
[0342] - metal carboxylates, particularly of aluminium, such as dimyristate aluminum and the aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate;
[0343] - perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoroalkyl silanes, perfluoroalkyl silazanes, hexafluoropropylene polyoxides and polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups;
[0344] - amino acids, N-acylated amino acids and their salts;
[0345] - lecithin, and isopropyl triisostearyl titanate; and
[0346] - their mixtures.
[0347] The term “alkyl” mentioned in the compounds cited above means a linear, branched, acyclic or cyclic alkyl group, comprising from 1 to 30 atoms, more particularly comprising from 2 to 16, more particularly between 4 and 10 carbon atoms, preferably between 5 and 6 carbon atoms. Preferably the term “alkyl” mentioned in the compounds above means an acyclic, linear or branched alkyl group, comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, more particularly from 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as methyl.
[0348] N-acylamino acids preferably comprise an acyl group containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, or cocoyl. Salts of these compounds include, in particular, salts of oxidation metals I, II, or III, such as aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium, or potassium salts. The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid, or alanine.
[0349] Examples of oil-absorbing organic particles ix) include the fillers described below:
[0350] Examples of acrylic polymer powders include porous spheres of polymethyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate marketed under the name Microsponge 5640 by Cardinal Health Technologies (oil uptake equal to 155 ml / 100 g), vinyl dimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer sold under the name KSP 100 (isononyl isononanoate oil uptake equal to 142.7 ml / 100 g) by Shin Etsu. Ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate crosslinked copolymer powders, in particular those sold under the name Polytrap® 6603 by Amcol Health & Beauty Solutions (isononyl isononanoate oil content equal to 657 ml / 100 g), and acrylonitrile / methyl methacrylate / vinylidene chloride copolymer marketed under the name EXPANCEL 551DE40D42 (isonononyl isononanoate oil content equal to 1387 ml / 100 g) by Akzo Novel.
[0351] As examples of polyamide powders, nylon-6 powder can be cited, in particular the product marketed under the name PompôlO by the company UBE Industries (oil intake equal to 202 ml / 100 g).
[0352] According to one embodiment of the invention, the quantity of oleosorbable particle(s) ix) in the composition is at least 0.01% by weight, preferably at least 0.05% by weight, and more preferably at least 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0353] On the other hand, the quantity of oleosorbable particle(s) ix) in the composition according to the invention is particularly at most 10% by weight, preferably at most 5% by weight, and more preferably at most 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0354] The quantity of oleosorbable particle(s) ix) in the composition according to the invention particularly ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0355] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention is either in the form of a direct emulsion, i.e. of the water-in-oil (W / O) or "oil-in-water (O / W)" type, or in the form of an inverse emulsion, i.e. of the water-in-oil (W / O) or "water-in-oil (W / O)" type, or in the form of a multiple oil-in-water-in-oil (W / O / O) emulsion, or in the form of a microemulsion.
[0356] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composition is in direct emulsion, i.e. of the water-in-oil (W / O) or "oil-in-water (O / W)" type.
[0357] According to another embodiment of the invention, the composition is in reverse emulsion, i.e. of the water-in-oil (W / O) type.
[0358] According to another embodiment of the invention, the composition of the invention is in the form of a multiple oil-in-water-in-oil (O / W / O) emulsion.
[0359] According to one embodiment the composition is in the form of a microemulsion.
[0360] By “microemulsion” is meant an O / W, W / H, or O / W / H emulsion, preferably whose (average) particle (or micelle) diameter is less than or equal to 300 nm, preferably less than or equal to 100 nm, more particularly less than or equal to 50 nm, better less than or equal to 30 nm, even better less than or equal to 20 nm. Particularly the (average) particle diameter is between 1 and 300 nm, more particularly between 2 nm and 100 nm, preferably between 3 and 50 nm, more preferably between 4 and 30 nm, even more preferably between 5 and 20 nm.
[0361] More preferably the microemulsion of the invention comprises v) one or more polar protic organic solvent(s), liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, preferably chosen from alcohols comprising 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 1 to 6 hydroxy groups, preferably the solvent is chosen from ethanol, glycerol, caprylyl glycol, butylene glycol, more particularly butylene glycol and caprylyl glycol.
[0362] In the case of emulsions and microemulsions, the composition preferably comprises one or more surfactants x), preferably non-ionic; and one or more fatty substances xi), preferably oils.
[0363] Preferably, the composition of the invention is an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion. More preferably, the composition of the invention is not a microemulsion. Particularly, the composition of the invention is in the form of a gel.
[0364] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition is in the form of an oil / water (O / W) type emulsified gel.
[0365] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition is in the form of a water-in-oil (W / O) type emulsified gel.
[0366] By "emulsified gel" it is understood that the composition of the invention is characterized by a gelled network in which fine droplets are suspended (O / W, W / H emulsion) thus forming an emulsified gel of the O / W or W / H type. x) Possibly one or more surfactant(s)
[0367] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition further comprises x) one or more surfactants. The surfactant(s) may be non-ionic, anionic, cationic, zwitterionic or amphoteric, preferably the surfactant(s) are non-ionic or anionic.
[0368] Among the non-ionic surfactants according to the invention, the following may be mentioned, alone or in mixtures: a) fatty alcohols, b) alpha-diols, c) alkylphenols; these 3 types of compounds a) a c) being polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated and / or polyglycerolated, and having a fat chain comprising for example 8 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular comprising 10 to 22 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups being able to range in particular from 2 to 200, in particular from 10 to 100 and the number of glycerol groups being able to range in particular from 2 to 200, in particular from 10 to 100.Other examples include ethylene oxide (EO) and propylene oxide (PO) copolymers; ethylene oxide and propylene oxide condensates on fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having 2 to 30 moles EO; polyglycerol fatty amides having on average 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular 1.5 to 4; oxyethylenated sorbitan fatty acid esters having 2 to 200 moles EO, in particular 10 to 100 EO; sucrose fatty acid esters; polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters; alkyl polyglycosides; N-alkyl glucamine derivatives; and amine oxides such as alkyl (CiO-Ci4)amine oxides or N-acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides.
[0369] Preferably, the non-ionic surfactant(s) is / are chosen from: (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols; glycerolized fatty alcohols; alkyl polyglycosides. Preferably, oxyethylenated mono- and diesters of sorbitan fatty acids having from 2 to 200 moles OE, in particular from 10 to 100 OE.
[0370] Preferably, the surfactants are chosen from among the mono- and diesters of oxyethylenated sorbitan fatty acids having from 2 to 200 moles EO, in particular from 10 to 100 EO such as propylene glycol stearate having from 10 to 30 EO such as 20 EO; glyceryl mono distearate / polyethylene glycol stearate (100 EO), preferably glyceryl monoester of fatty acids in C6-C3O. Preferably, the surfactant(s) x) is / are chosen from Polyglyceryl 2 isostearate, preferably in C10-C24, such as polyglyceryl-10 stearate, polyglyceryl-10 myristate.
[0371] By fatty chain is meant a hydrocarbon chain comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, such as (iso)stearyl.
[0372] As regards alkyl polyglycosides, these compounds are well known and can be more particularly represented by the following general formula (III):
[0373] R*O-(R2O)t (G)v (III)
[0374] Formula (III) wherein:
[0375] - R1 represents a linear or branched alkyl and / or alkenyl radical comprising approximately 8 to 24 carbon atoms, an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical comprises 8 to 24 carbon atoms;
[0376] - R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising approximately 2 to 4 carbon atoms;
[0377] - G represents a sugar motif comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms;
[0378] -1 denotes an integer between 0 and 10 inclusive, preferably between 0 and 4, preferably between 0 and 4; and
[0379] - v denotes an integer between 1 and 15 inclusive.
[0380] Preferred alkylpolyglycosides according to the present invention are compounds of formula (III) in which R1 more particularly designates a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical comprising 8 to 18 carbon atoms, t designates a value from 0 to 3 and more particularly equal to 0, G may designate glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose. The degree of polymerization, i.e. the value of v in formula (III), may range from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4. The average degree of polymerization is more particularly between 1 and 2 and even more preferably from 1.1 to 1.5.
[0381] The glycosidic bonds between the sugar motifs are of the 1-6 or 1-4 type and preferably 1-4.
[0382] Compounds of formula (III) are notably represented by the products sold by COGNIS under the names PLANTAREN® (600 CS / U, 1200 and 2000) or PLANTACARE® (818, 1200 and 2000). Products sold by SEPPIC under the names TRITON CG 110 (or ORAMIX CG 110) and TRITON CG 312 (or ORAMIX® NS 10), products sold by BASF under the name LUTENSOL GD 70, or those sold by CHEM Y under the name AGIO LK may also be used.
[0383] One can also use, for example, the C8 / Ci6 Alkyl polyglucoside 1.4 in aqueous solution at 53% marketed by COGNIS under the reference PLANTACARE® 818 UP.
[0384] As regards mono- or polyglycerolated surfactants, they preferably comprise on average from 1 to 40 glycerol groups, more particularly from 10 to 30 glycerol groups such as 20.
[0385] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the surfactants are monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated and are preferably chosen from compounds with the following formulas:
[0386] R3O[CH2CH(CH2OH)O]mH,
[0387] R3O[CH2CH(OH)CH2O]mH or
[0388] R3O[CH(CH2OH)CH2O]mH ;
[0389] Formulas in which:
[0390] - R3 represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, comprising 8 to 40 carbon atoms and preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms;
[0391] - m is a number between 1 and 30, preferably between 1 and 10, plus particularly from 1.5 to 6;
[0392] it being understood that R3 can be substituted, and / or interrupted by one or more heteroatoms such as O, N, or groups selected from hydroxy, amide and ester.
[0393] R3 preferably represents an alkyl and / or alkenyl group in CiO-C2O, possibly mono or polyhydroxylated, more particularly R3 represents an alkyl group in CiO-C24 such as myristyle, or lauryl.
[0394] Preferably the composition of the invention comprises one or more fatty (poly)ethoxylated alcohols suitable for implementing the invention, more particularly chosen from alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0395] Fatty (poly)ethoxylated alcohols more particularly have one or more hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.
[0396] The (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohol(s) preferably have the following formula:
[0397] Ra-[O-CH2-CH2]n-OH
[0398] Formula with
[0399] - Ra representing a linear or branched Ci-C40 alkyl group, or linear alkenyl or branched at C2-C30 (preferably alkyl at C8-C30); and
[0400] - n represents an integer between 1 and 200 inclusive, preferably between 2 and 100, more particularly inclusively between 10 and 50, even more particularly inclusively between 15 and 30 such as 100 or 20.
[0401] Fatty (poly)ethoxylated alcohols are more particularly fatty alcohols comprising 8 to 24 carbon atoms and oxyethylenated with 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide (1 to 100 EO). Among them, the following may be mentioned more particularly: lauryl alcohol 20 EO, lauryl alcohol 30 EO, decyl alcohol 3 EO, decyl alcohol 5 EO and oleyl alcohol 20 EO.
[0402] Mixtures of these (poly)oxyethylenated fatty alcohols can also be used.
[0403] Among non-ionic surfactants, C6-C24 alkyl surfactants are preferred. polyglucosides and fatty (poly)ethoxylated alcohols, and more specifically alkyl C8-C16 polyglucoside is used.
[0404] The quantity of non-ionic surfactants preferably ranges from 0.05% to 20% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and more particularly from 1% to 5% by weight, better between 2% and 4.5% relative to the total weight of the composition of the invention. In particular, the amount of surfactant is less than 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0405] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises one or more anionic surfactants.
[0406] The term "anionic surfactant" means a surfactant comprising only anionic groups as ionic or ionizable groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from among the groups -C(O)OH, -C(O)O, -SO3H, -S(O)2O, -OS(O)2OH, -OS(O)2O, -P(O)2OH, -P(O)2O, -P(O)O2, -P(OH)2, =P(O)OH, -P(OH)O, =P(O)O, =POH, =PO, the anionic parts comprising a cationic counter ion such as an alkali metal, an alkaline earth metal, or an ammonium, more preferably the groups are carboxy -C(O)OH, or carboxylate -C(O)O.
[0407] By way of examples of anionic surfactants usable in the composition according to the invention, the following may be mentioned: alkylcarboxylic acids, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamidoethersulfates, alkylarylpolyethersulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkylsulfonates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, salts of alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, salts of Alkyl and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acid diesters, acyllactylates, D-galactoside-uronic acid salts, alkyl ether-carboxylic acid salts, alkylaryl ether-carboxylic acid salts, alkyl amidoether-carboxylic acid salts,and the corresponding non-salted forms of all these compounds, the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, and the aryl group designating a phenyl group.
[0408] These compounds can be oxyethylated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide motifs.
[0409] C6-C24 alkyl monoester salts and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids can be selected from C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates.
[0410] When the anionic surfactant(s) is / are in salt form, it / they may be / they may be selected from alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium salt, and preferably sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohols or salts of alkaline earth metals such as magnesium salts.
[0411] Examples of amino alcohol salts include mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts, mono-, di- or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-l-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-l,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxy-methyl)aminomethane salts.
[0412] Salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals are preferably used, and in particular salts of sodium or magnesium.
[0413] Among the anionic surfactants mentioned, alkyl(C6-C24)carboxylic acids are preferred, in particular alkyl(C10-C2o)carboxylic acids, preferably of natural origin, in particular plant such as stearic acid, which may be in the form of salts of alkali metals, ammonium, amino alcohols, and alkaline earth metals, or a mixture of these compounds.
[0414] The quantity of anionic surfactants preferably ranges from 0.05% to 20% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and more particularly from 1% to 5% by weight, better between 2% and 4.5%, relative to the total weight of the composition of the invention.
[0415] The quantity of surfactants preferably ranges from 0.05% to 30% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and more particularly from 1% to 5% by weight, better between 2% and 4.5%, relative to the total weight of the composition of the invention. In particular, the quantity of surfactant is less than 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. xi) Possibly one or more fats
[0416] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition further comprises xi) one or more fatty substances. The fatty substance(s) of the invention xi) are not oxyalkylated.
[0417] Preferably, the fat or fatty substances of the invention are chosen from hydrocarbons, fatty alcohols, fatty esters, silicones and fatty ethers or mixtures thereof.
[0418] The fatty substances of the invention can be liquid or non-liquid at ambient temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm of Hg; i.e. 1,013.105 Pa).
[0419] The liquid fats of the invention preferably have a viscosity less than or equal to 2 Pa.s better less than or equal to 1 Pa.s and even better less than or equal to 0.1 Pa.s at a temperature of 25 °C and at a shear rate of 1 s1.
[0420] By liquid hydrocarbon, we mean a hydrocarbon composed solely of carbon atoms and liquid hydrogen at ordinary temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg; i.e. 1.013.105 Pa).
[0421] More specifically, the liquid hydrocarbons are selected from:
[0422] - linear or branched C6-Ci6 alkanes, possibly cyclic. As Examples include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isododecane, and isodecane.
[0423] - linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral, animal or synthetic origin of more than 16 carbon atoms, such as paraffin oils, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, squalane.
[0424] In a preferred variant, the liquid hydrocarbon(s) are chosen from paraffin oils, petroleum jelly oil.
[0425] By liquid fatty alcohol, we mean a non-glycerolized and non-oxyalkylated fatty alcohol that is liquid at ordinary temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg; i.e. 1.013.105 Pa).
[0426] Preferably, the liquid fatty alcohols of the invention comprise 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably in C10-C22, even more preferably in C14-C20, better in Ci6-Ci8.
[0427] The liquid fatty alcohols of the invention can be saturated or unsaturated.
[0428] Saturated liquid fatty alcohols are preferably branched. They can They may include in their structure at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring. Preferably, they are acyclic.
[0429] More particularly, the liquid saturated fatty alcohols of the invention are selected from octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol.
[0430] According to another embodiment of the invention, the fat(s) are selected from liquid unsaturated fatty alcohols. These liquid unsaturated fatty alcohols have at least one double or triple bond in their structure. Preferably, the fatty alcohols of the invention have one or more double bonds in their structure. When several double bonds are present, they are preferably two or three in number and may or may not be conjugated.
[0431] These unsaturated fatty alcohols can be linear or branched.
[0432] They may optionally include in their structures at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring. Preferably, they are acyclic.
[0433] More particularly, the liquid unsaturated fatty alcohols of the invention are chosen from oleic (or oleyl) alcohol, linoleic (or linoleyl) alcohol, linolenic (or linolenylic) alcohol, undecylenic alcohol.
[0434] Oleic alcohol is especially preferred.
[0435] By liquid fatty esters, we mean an ester derived from a fatty acid and / or a fatty alcohol and liquid at ordinary temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg; i.e. 1.013.105 Pa).
[0436] The esters are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci-C26 aliphatic mono- or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci-C26 aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.
[0437] Preferably, for monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol or acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.
[0438] Among monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate, ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, ethyl-2-hexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, cetearyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, and alkyl (iso)stearates in C10-C22, preferably in C12-C20 such as isopropyl isostearate.
[0439] Esters of di or tricarboxylic acids in C4-C22 and of alcohols in Ci-C22 and esters of mono, di or tricarboxylic acids and non-sugar alcohols di, tri, tetra or pentahydroxy in C4-C26 can also be used.
[0440] Examples include: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; di(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; din-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; di(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; di(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; trisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononate.
[0441] The composition may also include, as a liquid fatty ester, esters and diesters of C6-C30 fatty acid sugars, preferably C12-C22. It should be noted that "sugar" means oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds possessing several alcohol groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone groups, and comprising at least four carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.
[0442] Suitable sugars may be cited for example sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives in particular alkylated, such as methylated derivatives like methylglucose.
[0443] Sugar and fatty acid esters may be selected in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of sugar esters described above and fatty acids in C6-C30, preferably in C12-C22, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.
[0444] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters, polyesters and their mixtures.
[0445] These esters may be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonates, or mixtures thereof, such as mixed oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate, palmito-stearate esters.
[0446] In particular, mono- and di- esters are used, and in particular mono- or di- oleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate, oleostearate, of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.
[0447] One can cite as an example the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.
[0448] Finally, natural or synthetic esters of mono, di or triacids can also be used with glycerol.
[0449] Among these, we can mention vegetable oils.
[0450] Examples of vegetable oils or synthetic triglycerides that can be used in the composition of the invention as liquid fatty esters include:
[0451] - triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, such as triglycerides fatty acid liquids containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms such as the triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grapeseed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor, avocado oils, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil.
[0452] Preferably, liquid fatty esters derived from monoalcohols will be used as esters according to the invention.
[0453] Isopropyl myristate or palmitate are preferred.
[0454] Liquid silicone means a liquid organopolysiloxane at ordinary temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg; i.e. 1.013.105 Pa).
[0455] Preferably, the silicone is chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.
[0456] These silicones can also be organomodified. The organomodified silicones usable according to the invention are liquid silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups fixed by means of a hydrocarbon group.
[0457] Organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in Walter Noll's "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academy Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.
[0458] When volatile, silicones are particularly chosen from those having a boiling point between 60 °C and 260 °C, and even more particularly from:
[0459] (i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising 3 to 7, preferably 4 with 5 silicon atoms. These include, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane marketed under the name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7207 by UNION CARBIDE or SILBIONE® 70045 V2 by RHODIA, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketed under the name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7158 by UNION CARBIDE, and SILBIONE® 70045 V5 by RHODIA, dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketed under the name SILSOFT 1217 by MOMENTIVE PERFORMANCE MATERIALS, or cyclohexadimethylsiloxane and their mixtures.
[0460] We can also mention cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as SILICONE VOLATILE® FZ 3109 marketed by UNION CARBIDE, with the formula:
[0461] [Chem.3] CH. 1----------------------------1 CH. laugh with D*: — ® - O — with D': ~ SI - O — CH3
[0462] We can also mention mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with silicon-derived organic compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-l,l'-(hexa-2,2,2',2',3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy) bis-neopentane.
[0463] (ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes having 2 to 9 silicon atoms and exhibiting a viscosity less than or equal to 5 x 10⁻⁶ m² / s at 25 °C. This includes, for example, decamethyltetrasiloxane, marketed notably under the name "SH 200" by TORAY SILICONE. Silicones falling into this class are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 1976, pp. 27–32 – TODD & BYERS, "Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics." The viscosity of silicones is measured at 25 °C according to ASTM 445 Appendix C.
[0464] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes can also be used.
[0465] These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from among the polydialkylsiloxanes among which we can mainly mention the polydimethylsiloxanes with terminal trimethylsilyl groups.
[0466] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following commercial products may be cited by way of non-limiting example:
[0467] - SILBIONE® oils from series 47 and 70 047 or MIRASIL® oils marketed by RHODIA such as, for example, oil 70 047 V 500 000
[0468] - the MIRASIL® series oils marketed by the company RHODIA;
[0469] - oils in the 200 series from DOW CORNING such as DC200 having viscosity 60,000 mm2 / s;
[0470] - VISCASIL® oils from GENERAL ELECTRIC and certain oils from the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from GENERAL ELECTRIC.
[0471] We can also mention polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol terminal groups known as dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils in the 48 series from the RHODIA company.
[0472] Among silicones with aryl groups are polydiaryl siloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes. Examples include products marketed under the following names:
[0473] - SILBIONE® oils from the 70 641 series of RHODIA;
[0474] - the oils from the RHODORSIL® 70 633 and 763 series of RHODIA;
[0475] - DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRAD FLUID oil from DOW CORNING;
[0476] - BAYER's PK series silicones such as product PK20;
[0477] - certain oils from the SF series of GENERAL ELECTRIC such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, SF 1265.
[0478] Organomodified liquid silicones may, in particular, contain polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups. Examples include KF-6017 silicone offered by SHIN ETSU and SILWET® L 722 and L 77 oils from UNION CARBIDE.
[0479] Liquid fatty ethers are selected from liquid dialkyl ethers such as dicaprylyl ether.
[0480] Fats and oils may be non-liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
[0481] By non-liquids, we preferably mean a solid compound or a compound having a viscosity greater than 2 Pa.s at a temperature of 25 °C and a shear rate of 1 s⁻¹
[0482] More specifically, non-liquid fats are chosen from fatty alcohols, fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters, non-siliconized waxes, silicones, fatty ethers, non-liquid and preferably solid.
[0483] The non-liquid fatty alcohols suitable for implementing the invention are more particularly chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols, comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably in Ci0-C22, even more preferably in Ci4-C20, better in Ci6-Ci8.
[0484] Cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol) are especially preferred.
[0485] With regard to non-liquid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters, one can mention in particular solid esters derived from C9-C26 fatty acids and C9-C26 fatty alcohols.
[0486] Among these esters, we can mention octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; cetyl lactate; stearyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; myristyle stearate; octyl palmitate; octyl pelargonate; octyl stearate; alkyl myristates such as cetyl, myristyle, stearyl myristate; hexyl stearate, more particularly myristyle myrystate.
[0487] Still within the framework of this variant, esters of di or tricarboxylic acids in C4-C22 and of alcohols in CrC22 and esters of mono di or tricarboxylic acids and of di, tri, tetra or pentahydroxy alcohols in C2-C26 can also be used.
[0488] Examples include: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; din-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; dioctyl maleate.
[0489] Among all the additional esters mentioned above, preference is given to use myristyle, cetyl, stearyl palmitates, alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, myristyle stearyl myristate.
[0490] The wax or waxes (non-siliconized) are chosen in particular from Camauba wax, Candelila wax, and Alfa wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, vegetable waxes such as olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or absolute flower waxes such as blackcurrant flower essential wax sold by the company BERTIN (France), animal waxes such as beeswax, modified beeswax (cerabellina), white beeswax such as that sold by KOSTER KEUNEN; other waxes or waxy raw materials usable according to the invention are in particular marine waxes such as that sold by the company SOPHIM under reference M82, polyethylene or polyolefin waxes in general.
[0491] Non-liquid silicones according to the invention may be in the form of waxes, resins or gums.
[0492] Preferably, the non-liquid silicone is selected from polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and organo-modified polysiloxanes comprising at least one functional group selected from poly(oxyalkylene) groups, amine groups and alkoxy groups.
[0493] Silicone gums usable according to the invention include polydialkylsiloxanes, preferably polydimethylsiloxanes having high number-average molecular weights between 200,000 and 1,000,000, used alone or in a mixture in a solvent. This solvent may be selected from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane oils (PDMS), polyphenylmethylsiloxane oils (PPMS), isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane, tridecane, or mixtures thereof.
[0494] Products more particularly usable according to the invention are mixtures such as:
[0495] - mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane hydroxylated at the end of chain, or dimethiconol (CTFA) and a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane also called cyclomethicone (CTFA) such as the product Q2 1401 marketed by the company DOW CORNING;
[0496] - mixtures of a polydimethylsiloxane gum and a cyclic silicone such that the product SF 1214 Silicone Fluid from the company GENERAL ELECTRIC, this product is an SF 30 gum corresponding to a dimethicone, having an average molecular weight by number of 500,000 solubilized in oil SF 1202 Silicone Fluid corresponding to decamethylcyclopentasiloxane;
[0497] - mixtures of two PDMS of different viscosities, and more particularly of a PDMS rubber and a PDMS oil, such as product SF 1236 from GENERAL ELECTRIC. Product SF 1236 is a mixture of SE 30 rubber, as defined above, having a viscosity of 20 m² / s, and SF 96 oil with a viscosity of 5 x 10⁶ m² / s. This product preferably comprises 15% SE 30 rubber and 85% SF 96 oil.
[0498] The organopolysiloxane resins usable according to the invention are cross-linked siloxane systems containing the following motifs:
[0499] R2SiO2 / 2, R3SiO1 / 2, RSiO3 / 2 and SiO4 / 2
[0500] Formulas in which:
[0501] R, identical or different, preferably identical, represents an alkyl having 1 to 16 carbon atoms. Among these products, those particularly preferred are those in which R designates a lower C1-C4 alkyl group, more particularly methyl.
[0502] Examples of these resins include the product marketed under the name "DOW CORNING 593" or those marketed under the name "SILICONE" FLUID SS 4230 and SS 4267" by the company GENERAL ELECTRIC and which are dimethyl / trimethyl siloxane structure silicones.
[0503] We can also mention trimethylsiloxysilicate type resins marketed in particular under the names X22-4914, X21-5034 and X21-5037 by the company SHIN-ETSU.
[0504] Among the additional organomodified silicones, we can mention polyorganosiloxanes comprising:
[0505] - substituted or unsubstituted amino groups such as those found in commercially available products under the designations Q2 8220 and DOW CORNING 929 or 939 by the DOW CORNING company. The substituted amino groups are in particular Ci-C4 aminoalkyl groups;
[0506] - alkoxylated groups, such as the product marketed under the name ABIL WAX® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by GOLDSCHMIDT.
[0507] Non-liquid fatty ethers are selected from dialkyl ethers, in particular diketylether and distearyl ether, alone or in mixtures.
[0508] The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more butters, identical or different, preferably of vegetable origin.
[0509] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the weight content of the butter(s) according to the invention, in fatty acids Ci6 of the triglycerides, expressed in relation to the total fatty acids of the triglycerides, is less than 23%.
[0510] For the purposes of this invention, "butter" (also referred to as "pasty fat") means a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid / liquid phase change, comprising a liquid fraction and a solid fraction at a temperature of 25 °C and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). In other words, the initial melting temperature of the pasty compound may be lower than 25 °C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 25 °C may represent 9 to 97% by weight of the compound. This liquid fraction at 25 °C preferably represents between 15 and 85%, and more preferably between 40 and 85% by weight.
[0511] Preferably, the butter(s) have a final melting temperature of less than 60 °C.
[0512] Preferably, the butter(s) shall have a hardness of less than or equal to 6 MPa.
[0513] Preferably, pasty fats have an organization in the solid state anisotropic crystalline, visible by X-ray observations.
[0514] For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of a paste or wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "DSC Q2000" by TA Instruments.
[0515] Regarding the measurement of the melting temperature and the determination of the final melting temperature, the sample preparation and measurement protocols are as follows:
[0516] A 5 mg sample of pasty fat, previously heated to 80°C and taken under magnetic stirring with a heated spatula, is placed in a hermetically sealed aluminum container, or crucible. Two tests are carried out to ensure the reproducibility of the results.
[0517] The measurements are carried out on the calorimeter mentioned above. The furnace is subjected to nitrogen purging. Cooling is provided by the RCS 90 heat exchanger. The sample is then subjected to the following protocol: first, it is heated to 20 °C, then subjected to a first heating from 20 °C to 80 °C at a rate of 5 °C / minute, then cooled from 80 °C to -80 °C at a rate of 5 °C / minute, and finally subjected to a second heating from -80 °C to 80 °C at a rate of 5 °C / minute. During the second heating, the variation in the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the butter sample is measured as a function of temperature.The melting point of the compound is the temperature value corresponding to the peak of the curve representing the variation of the difference in absorbed power as a function of temperature.
[0518] The final melting temperature corresponds to the temperature at which 95% of the sample has melted.
[0519] The liquid fraction by weight of the butter at 25 °C is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 25 °C to the enthalpy of fusion of the butter.
[0520] The enthalpy of fusion of the paste-like compound is the enthalpy consumed by the compound to change from a solid to a liquid state. Butter is said to be in a solid state when all of its mass is in crystalline solid form. Butter is said to be in a liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form.
[0521] The enthalpy of fusion of butter is equal to the integral of the entire melting curve obtained using the aforementioned calorimeter, with a temperature increase of 5 or 10 °C per minute, according to ISO 11357-3:1999. The enthalpy of fusion of butter is the amount of energy required to change the compound from a solid to a liquid state. It is expressed in J / g.
[0522] The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 25 °C is the amount of energy absorbed by the sample to pass from the solid state to the state it presents at 25 °C consisting of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.
[0523] The liquid fraction of the butter measured at 32 °C preferably represents 30 to 100% by weight of the compound, preferably 50 to 100%, and preferably 60 to 100% by weight of the compound. When the liquid fraction of the butter measured at 32°C is equal to 100%, the temperature at the end of the melting range of the pasty compound is less than or equal to 32°C.
[0524] The liquid fraction of butter measured at 32 °C is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 °C to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound. The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 °C is calculated in the same way as the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23 °C.
[0525] Regarding hardness measurement, the sample preparation and measurement protocols are as follows:
[0526] The composition according to the invention, or butter, is placed in a 75 mm diameter mold which is filled to approximately 75% of its height. In order to eliminate the thermal precipitate and control crystallization, the mold is placed in the Vôtsch VC0018 programmable oven where it is first heated to 80°C for 60 minutes, then cooled from 80°C to 0°C at a cooling rate of 5°C / minute, then left at the stabilized temperature of 0°C for 60 minutes, then subjected to a temperature increase from 0°C to 20°C at a heating rate of 5°C / minute, then left at the stabilized temperature of 20°C for 180 minutes.
[0527] The compression force measurement is performed using the Swantech TA / TX2i texture analyzer. The mobile device used is chosen according to the texture:
[0528] - 2 mm diameter cylindrical steel mobile for very raw materials rigid;
[0529] - 12 mm diameter cylindrical steel mobile for low-grade raw materials rigid;
[0530] The measurement involves 3 steps:
[0531] - a first step after automatic detection of the sample surface where the mobile moves at a measurement speed of 0.1 mm / s, and penetrates the composition according to the invention or the butter to a penetration depth of 0.3 mm, the software notes the value of the maximum force reached;
[0532] - a second stage called relaxation where the mobile remains in this position for a second, and where we note the strength after 1 second of relaxation; finally
[0533] - a 3rd stage called withdrawal where the mobile returns to its initial position at the speed of 1 mm / s and we note the energy of retraction of the probe (negative force).
[0534] The hardness value measured in the first step corresponds to the maximum compressive force measured in Newtons divided by the surface area of the texture tester cylinder, expressed in mm², in contact with the butter or the composition according to the invention. The hardness value obtained is expressed in megapascals or MPa.
[0535] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the particular butter(s) are of vegetable origin such as those described in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry (“Fats and Fatty Oils”, A. Thomas, Published Online: 15 JUN 2000, DOI: 10.1002 / 14356007.al0_173, point 13.2.2.2. Shea Butter, Borneo Tallow, and Related Fats (Vegetable Butters)).
[0536] Particular examples include shea butter, Nilotica shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Galam butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Borneo butter or fat (Tengkawang tallow) (Shorea stenoptera), Shorea butter, Illipe butter, Madhuca or Bassia Madhuca longifolia butter, Mowrah butter (Madhuca Latifolia), Katiau butter (Madhuca mottleyana), Phulwara butter (M. butyracea), Mango butter (Mangifera indica), Murumuru butter (Astrocaryum murumuru), Kokum butter (Garcinia Indica), Ucuuba butter (Virola sebifera), Tucuma butter, Painya (Kpangnan) butter (Pentadesma butyracea), and coffee butter (Coffea arabica), apricot butter (Prunus Armeniaca), macadamia butter (Macadamia Ternifolia), grape seed butter (Vitis vinifera), avocado butter (Persea gratissima), olive butter (Olea europaea), sweet almond butter (Prunus amygdalus dulcis) and sunflower butter.Preferably, the butter(s) according to the invention are chosen from Murumuru butter, Ucuuba butter, Shorea butter, Illipe butter, Shea butter, Cupuaçu butter and even more preferably Shea butter.
[0537] In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the weight content of fatty acids Ci6 of triglycerides expressed in relation to the total fatty acids of triglycerides varies from 0 to 22%, better from 0 to 15%, even better from 2 to 12%.
[0538] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more butters in a quantity particularly inclusively between 0.01 and 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more particularly inclusively between 0.1 and 20% by weight, preferably inclusively between 0.5 and 10% by weight, and more preferably inclusively between 1 and 5% by weight.
[0539] Preferably, the compositions of the invention contain one or more liquid fats at ordinary temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg; i.e. 1.013.105 Pa), possibly associated with one or more non-liquid fats under the same conditions.
[0540] Preferably, the fat is chosen from
[0541] a) butters, preferably shea butter,
[0542] b) waxes, preferably beeswax,
[0543] c) non-liquid fatty alcohols, particularly selected from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferentially in C10-C22, more preferably in Ci4-C2O, better in Ci6-Ci8 such as cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol and their mixture,
[0544] d) non-liquid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters, in particular solid esters of C9-C26 fatty acids and C9-C26 fatty alcohols, in particular alkyl myristates such as cetyl, myristyle, stearyl myristate; hexyl stearate, more particularly myristyle myristate;
[0545] e) monoalcohol esters, of which at least one of the alcohol or acid is derived from said esters is branched, such as ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate, ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, ethyl-2-hexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, and C10-C22 alkyl (iso)stearates, preferably C12-C20, such as isopropyl isostearate;
[0546] f) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising 3 to 7, preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane, or cyclohexadimethylsiloxane and mixtures thereof, preferably cyclohexadimethylsiloxane;
[0547] g) oils of vegetable origin or synthetic triglycerides, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grapeseed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor, avocado oils, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, preferably caprylic / capric acid triglycerides.
[0548] Preferably the fatty substance(s) xi) is / are selected from oils, particularly from oils, particularly from monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, more particularly from ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate, ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, ethyl-2-hexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, cetearyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, and alkyl (iso)stearates in C10-C22, preferably in C12-C20 such as isopropyl isostearate, isononyl isononanoate, and cetearyl isononanoate, more preferably selected including isononyl isononanoate, cetearyl isononanoate, and mixtures thereof.
[0549] According to a particular embodiment, the fat(s) xi) included in the composition according to the present invention is / are present in the composition in an amount varying from 0.01% to 40% by weight, more particularly in an amount varying from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and preferably in an amount varying from 0.5% to 10%, more preferably from 1% to 5%, better from 1.5% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. xii) other ingredients
[0550] The composition of the invention may further comprise other ingredients such as polymers other than i) and ii), cationic, anionic, zwitterionic or neutral thickeners, associative or non-associative, sequestrants, antioxidants, preservatives other than v), perfumes, actives such as niacinamide or vitamin B3, hyaluronates and their salts such as alkali metal hyaluronates (sodium hyaluronate), fruit extracts, and ascorbyl glucoside, humectants such as glycyrrhizate of alkali metal or alkaline earth salts such as dipotassium glycyrrhizate. The process for preparing the composition#:
[0551] The invention also relates to a method for preparing a composition, in particular cosmetic or pharmaceutical i) to iv) and optionally v) to xi) by adding to water iv) of i), ii) and iii) and optionally v) to xi).
[0552] The invention is illustrated in more detail in the following example. The contents of the ingredients are expressed as a percentage by weight.
[0553] Another object of the invention is a method for treating keratinous materials by applying to said materials, particularly human materials such as skin, the composition as defined above, comprising ingredients v) to xi). EXAMPLES Example 1#:
[0554] The following compositions were prepared. The quantities are given in the table below in g per 100 g of composition. [Tables 1] Ingredients Composition 1 Composition 2 Sodium carbomer i) 1.8 1.4 Xanthan gum ii) 0.2 0.2 Biosaccharide Gum-1 ii) 0.09 - Yellow 5 iii) 4.7. KG - Red 33 iii) 3.8. 103 - Blue 1 iii) 2.1. 103 1.2. 10 4 Charcoal powder iii) / polyglyceryl-10 stearate / po lyglyceryl 10 myristate / polyglycerin-10 x) 7.103 - Ethanol v) 5 5 Glycerin v) 5 5 Caprylyl glycol v) 0.3 0.3 Lactic acid vi) 0.5 - Salicylic acid vi) 0.45 0.45 Sodium hydroxide vii) 0.47 0.23 Silica silylate ix) 0.3 0.3 Polyglyceryl 2 isostearate x) 0.15 0.15 Isononyl isononanoate xi) - 2 Cetearyl isononanoate xi) 2 - Dipotassium glycyrrhizate (humectant) 0.2 Fruit extract (active) - 0.01 Niacinamide Vitamin B3 (active) 5 4 Ascorbyl glucoside (active) - 0.1 Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate (secestrant) 0.25 0.25 Fragrance 0.02 0.1 Water iv) Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Composition color (observed appearance) Deep black (intense homogeneous) Lagoon blue (light and translucent homogeneous) Composition pH 5.7 5.7
[0555] Once applied to the skin, the compositions transform into a gel with a sorbet-like appearance, providing a cooling sensation. During application, the liquid flows and absorbs pleasantly without any stickiness or drying after application to the skin, resulting in a slight, homogeneous color. The color of the compositions does not change over time; they are homogeneous and remain so over time. The compositions of the invention are stable over time, even at temperatures of 45°C or higher, after several days or even several weeks.
Claims
Demands
1. A composition, particularly a cosmetic one, comprising: i) at least one polymer derived from (Ci-C6)alkyl acrylic acid and its salts, comprising a repeating unit of formula (I): -[CH(R1)-C(R2)(COO-M+)]- formula (I) wherein: - R1 and R2, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C6)alkyl group; - M+ represents a cationic counterion, preferably an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium; - y represents an integer greater than or equal to 2; and - z is zero, or represents a number greater than zero; preferably y > z; ii) at least one polysaccharide, linear or branched; iii) at least one colorant; iv) water;and one or more acid(s) vi), organic or inorganic, preferably one or more organic acid(s) chosen from (poly)(hydroxy)carboxylic acids, in particular of formula R'-C(O)-OH, with R' representing a hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, acyclic or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or non-aromatic, comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, possibly substituted by one or more hydroxy groups; or one or more inorganic acid(s).
2. A composition wherein polymer(s) i) is / are selected from polymer(s) i) comprising, particularly consisting of, a repetition of formula units (I) and formula unit(s) (II): -[CH(R')-C(R2)(COO M+)]-(I) and -[CH(R')-C(R2)(COOH)]-(II), wherein R1 and R2, and M+ are as defined in claim 1; preferably R1 and R2 represent a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group such as methyl, preferably a hydrogen atom, and M+ represents a cationic counterion selected from an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, and ammonium, preferably an alkali metal. such as sodium; more preferably R1 represents a hydrogen atom, R2 represents a hydrogen atom or an (Ci-C4)alkyl group such as methyl, even more preferably R2 represents a hydrogen atom; and M+ preferably represents an alkali metal such as sodium or potassium, more preferably sodium; preferably, the polymer(s) i) is / are partially neutralized, preferably by a metal salt, more preferably by an alkali metal salt, and even more preferably a sodium salt.
3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the polymer(s) i) is / are selected from the polymer(s) i) capable of absorbing at least 20 times its / their weight in water (i.e. at least 20 grams of water absorbed per gram of polymer - the water absorbance characteristics being defined at room temperature: 25 °C and atmospheric pressure with distilled water), particularly at least 50 times its / their weight in water, more particularly at least 80 times its / their weight in water, preferably the polymer(s) of formula (I) is / are capable of absorbing at least 100 times its / their weight in water.
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the polymer(s) i) is / are selected from the polymer(s) i) which comprise, particularly which consists / are of a repetition of units of formula (I) and unit(s) of formula (II) is / are capable of crosslinking in the presence of one or more crosslinking agent(s); preferably the polymer(s) i) is / are selected from alkali metal, alkaline earth, or ammonium polyacrylates, preferably alkali and alkaline earth metal polyacrylates, more preferably alkali metal polyacrylates such as sodium acrylate, crosslinked and partially neutralized and also called carbomer, more particularly the polymer(s) i) is / are selected from carbomers, preferably carbomer S or sodium carbomer.
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the polymer(s) i) is / are selected from the polymer(s) i) which is / are in the form of particles; of preferably spherical; the average size of the primary (non-hydrated) particles as D50 comprising (preferably made up of) the polymer(s) i) is preferably not less than 0.1 µm, preferably not less than 0.5 µm, and more preferably not less than 1 µm and not more than 200 µm, preferably not more than 100 µm, more preferably not more than 50 µm, it being understood that the term "D50" means the particle size for which 50% of the particle volume, on the basis of the total particle volume, has a particle size distribution less than or equal to D50, the D50 value being able to be determined by laser diffraction, or by using a laser diffraction particle size distribution analyzer.
6. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the polymer(s) i) is / are selected from the polymer(s) i) which are in the form of particles which, upon hydration, swell to form flexible particles having an average diameter inclusively between 10 mm and 300 mm, more particularly between 20 mm and 200 mm, and even more particularly between 40 mm and 150 mm. The particle sizes correspond to the primary particle sizes.
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the amount in the composition of polymer(s) i) is at least 0.5% by weight, more particularly at least 0.7% by weight, and more preferably at least 0.9% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and / or at most 10% by weight, preferably at most 5% by weight, and more preferably at most 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; particularly the amount in the composition of polymer(s) i) as defined in any one of the preceding claims is from 0.5% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.7% to 4% by weight, and more preferably from 0.9% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the polysaccharide(s) ii) is / are derived from native gums such as those derived from tree or shrub exudates, algae, seeds or tubers, fungi, bacteria, animal organisms, plants, selected from gum arabic, ghatti gum, karaya gum, tragacanth gum; agar; alginates; carrageenans and
9.
10. furcelleranes; guar gum; locust bean gum; fenugreek gum; tamarind gum; konjac gum; xanthan gum or dehydroxanthan gum; gellan gum; scleroglucan gum; preferably the polysaccharide(s) b) are derived from native gums selected from: tree or shrub exudates including gum arabic; ghatti gum; karaya gum; tragacanth gum; gums derived from algae including agar; alginates; carrageenans and furcelleranes; gums derived from seeds or tubers including guar gum; locust bean gum; fenugreek gum; tamarind gum; konjac gum; microbial gums including xanthan gum or dehydroxanthan gum; gellan gum; scleroglucan gum; plant extracts including cellulose; starch; inulin and pectin; and chitin and chitosan derivatives;more preferably the polysaccharide(s) ii) are chosen from pullulan, xanthan or dehedro-xanthan gums, and carreghenan.; Composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the polysaccharide(s) ii), preferably branched, is / are selected from a) polysaccharides consisting of combinations of sugars selected from glucose, mannose, and glucuronic acid, associated or not with a (keto)(Ci-C6)alkyl carboxylic acid such as pyruvic acid, more preferably the polysaccharide(s) is / are selected from xanthan gums, b) fucose-galactose-galacturonic acid trisaccharides;particularly composed of residues of fucose, galactose and galacturonic acid, more preferably the polysaccharide(s) is Biosaccharide Gum-1 (223266-93-1) (fermentation gum derived from sorbitol) which is a trisaccharide of αL-fucose(1->3)αD-galactose(1->3)-αD-galacturonic acid, c) the mixture of a) and b), preferably the mixture of xanthan gum and trisaccharides of αL-fucose(1->3)αD-galactose(1->3)-αD-galacturonic acid (Biosaccharide Gum-1).; Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the amount of polysaccharide(s) ii) wherein the composition ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.05% at 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the mass ratio of ingredients i) / ii) is greater than or equal to 1, more particularly greater than or equal to 2, even more particularly greater than or equal to 3, more particularly the mass ratio of ingredients i) / ii) is between 1 and 20, even more particularly between 2 and 15, preferably between 3 and 10, better 3.4 to 9, more specifically between 7 and 9.
12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the coloring material(s) selected from: pigments, anionic, cationic, zwitterionic, neutral, non-fluorescent or fluorescent direct dyes, and mixtures thereof, preferably pigments, in particular selected from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, triarylmethane blue, blue pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 74100, 74160, yellow pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 11660, 11680, 11710, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, and, the green pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 45370, 71105,Red pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470; pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole and phenolic derivatives; D&C Red and D&C Yellow, preferably D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200) and D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140); and D&C Blue, preferably D&C Blue 1. (CI 42 090), most preferably chosen from black pigments such as charcoal black; yellow pigments such as D&C Yellow 5; red pigments such as D&C Red 33; and / or blue pigments such as D&C Blue 1.
13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the colorant(s) iii) is / are present in a concentration from 0.00001% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.00005% to 0.5% by weight, more particularly of 0.0001% to 0.05% by weight, more specifically between 0.0001% and 0.03% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the amount of water iv) of the composition is greater than or equal to 10%, more particularly greater than or equal to 20%, preferably greater than or equal to 30%, more preferably greater than or equal to 40%, even more preferably greater than or equal to 50%, better greater than or equal to 60%, better greater than or equal to 70%, better still greater than or equal to 80%; preferably the composition comprises between 10% and 99.9% by weight water, more particularly between 20% and 98% by weight water, 30% and 90% by weight water, even more particularly between 40% and 95% by weight water, preferably between 50% and 90% by weight water, more preferably between 60% and 85% by weight water relative to the total weight of the composition.
15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the pH of the composition is inclusively between 4 and 10 preferably inclusively between 4.5 and 8, particularly between 5 and 7 and more particularly between 5.2 and 7.5, better between 5.4 and 6 such that 5.7+ / -0.
2.
16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprises v) one or more organic solvent(s), in particular selected from: a) C2-C6 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; b) water-miscible polyols at room temperature (25 °C), in particular selected from polyols having in particular from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerin, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol, diglycerin; c) polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, and d) aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof;preferably the composition comprises v) one or more polar protic organic solvent(s), liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, preferably selected from alcohols comprising 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 1 to 6 hydroxy groups, preferably; the solvent is chosen from ethanol, glycerol, caprylyl glycol, butylene glycol, more particularly ethanol and caprylyl glycol; preferably, the organic solvent(s) v) is / are chosen from a) and more preferably is / are chosen from ethanol, glycerin, and caprylyl glycol, and their mixture; more particularly the organic solvent(s) is / are in a content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight.
17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising one or more acid(s) vi), of formula R'-C(O)-OH, with R' representing a (Ci-C6)alkyl group optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy or carboxy groups or R' representing an aryl group such as benzyl optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy or carboxy groups; preferably the acid(s) vi) is / are selected from hydroxy(Ci-C6)alkyl(poly)carboxylic acids such as lactic acid, tartaric acid, or citric acid, salicylic acid.
18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising vii) one or more alkali(s), organic or mineral, preferably one or more mineral alkali(s), more particularly selected from alkali carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium or potassium carbonates and sodium or potassium bicarbonates, sodium or potassium hydroxides or mixtures thereof, more particularly sodium or potassium hydroxides, more preferably sodium hydroxide.
19. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising ix) one or more inorganic oil-absorbable particle(s), particularly comprising at least one material selected from silica, in particular hydrophobic silica such as silica silylate, silicate, pearlite, boron nitride, alkali or alkaline earth metal carbonates such as magnesium carbonate, alkali or alkaline earth metal hydroxides such as magnesium hydroxide, kaolin, talc, and mixtures thereof.
20. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims which is in the form of a direct emulsion, i.e., of the water type
21.
22. in oil (O / W) or "oil in water (O / W)", either in the form of an inverse emulsion i.e. of the water in oil (W / O) type or "water in oil (O / W)", or in the form of a multiple oil in water in oil (O / W / O) emulsion or "oil in water in oil (O / W / O)", or in the form of a microemulsion; preferably the composition of the invention is an O / W type emulsion, more preferably an emulsified gel of the O / W or W / O type, in particular of the O / W type. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising x) one or more nonionic, anionic, cationic, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactant(s), particularly nonionic or anionic, more particularly nonionic, preferably the surfactant(s) is / are selected from mono- and diesters of sorbitan fatty acids oxyethylenated having from 2 to 200 moles OE, in particular from 10 to 100 OE such as propylene glycol stearate having from 10 to 30 OE such as 20 OE; glyceryl mono distearate / polyethylene glycol stearate (100 OE), preferably glyceryl monoester of fatty acid in C6-C30, more preferably the surfactant(s) x) is / are chosen from Polyglyceryl 2 isostearate preferably in C10-C24, such as polyglyceryl-10 stearate, polyglyceryl-10 myristate;The quantity of surfactants preferably ranges from 0.05% to 30% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and more particularly from 1% to 5% by weight, better between 2% and 4.5% relative to the total weight of the composition of the invention; particularly the quantity of surfactant is less than 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising xi) one or more fats, in particular selected from oils, particularly monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, more particularly from ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate, ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, ethyl-2-hexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, cetearyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, and C10-C22 alkyl (iso)stearates, preferably C12-C20 such as isopropyl isostearate, isononyl isononanoate, and cetearyl isononanoate, more preferably isononyl isononanoate, and Cetearyl isononanoate; particularly the fatty body(ies) xi) is / are present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 40% by weight, more particularly in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 10%, more preferably from 1% to 5%, better from 1.5% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
23. A method for treating keratinous materials, in particular human materials such as skin, by applying to said materials the composition according to any one of the preceding claims.