Composition in the form of a direct emulsion comprising at least one acetoacetate compound, at least one fatty acid and at least one chitosan
A stable oil-in-water emulsion with acetoacetate compounds, fatty acids, and chitosan addresses the issue of poor color retention and discomfort in hair coloring by forming durable, non-sticky coatings resistant to water and shampoos, while reducing environmental impact.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2023012927
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2023-11-23
- Publication Date
- 2025-11-28
- Estimated Expiration
- 2043-11-23
AI Technical Summary
Existing hair coloring compositions using pigments are not resistant to water and shampoos, leading to poor color retention and discomfort due to sticky coatings, and there is a need for compositions with a lower carbon footprint using renewable materials.
A stable oil-in-water emulsion comprising acetoacetate compounds, fatty acids, and chitosan, optionally with pigments, which forms a non-sticky, durable coating on keratin fibers, resistant to external aggressions.
The composition provides long-lasting color retention on keratin fibers, minimizes discomfort, and has a reduced environmental impact by using renewable materials.
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Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Composition in the form of a direct emulsion comprising at least one acetoacetate compound, at least one fatty acid and at least one chitosan
[0001] The present invention relates to a composition in the form of a direct oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion comprising at least one compound of formula (I), as defined below, at least one fatty acid, at least one chitosan, and optionally at least one pigment.
[0002] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process, preferably for coloring, of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising at least the application to said fibers of at least one composition as defined above.
[0003] In the field of hair keratin fiber coloring, it is already known to color hair keratin fibers by different techniques from direct dyes or pigments for non-permanent colorings or from dye precursors for permanent colorings.
[0004] There are essentially three types of hair coloring processes:
[0005] a) so-called permanent coloring which has the function of bringing about a significant change in the natural color and which uses oxidation dyes which penetrate the hair fiber and form the dye by a process of oxidative condensation;
[0006] b) non-permanent, semi-permanent or direct coloring, which does not implement the oxidative condensation process and resists 4 or 5 shampoos; consists of dyeing the keratin fibers with dyeing compositions containing direct dyes;
[0007] c) Temporary hair coloring that results in a change to the natural hair color that lasts from one shampoo to the next and serves to enhance or correct a previously achieved shade. It can also be considered a "makeup" process.
[0008] Another coloring method involves using pigments. Indeed, applying pigments to the surface of keratin fibers generally produces visible colors on dark hair, since the surface pigment masks the fiber's natural color. However, the colors obtained using this method still have the disadvantage of being poorly resistant to water and shampoos, as well as to external agents such as brushing and / or rubbing.
[0009] Thus, there is a real need to offer compositions intended for treatment cosmetic, preferably to coloring, keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, not having the disadvantages mentioned above, i.e. stable compositions capable of leading to a non-sticky coating, transferring little or not at all, and resistant to external aggressions, in particular to water and / or shampoos, guaranteeing in particular good color retention over time.
[0010] Furthermore, in this context, it is important to develop new compositions with a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or with a good naturalness index and / or of natural origin and more particularly of plant origin while reducing the use of petrochemical compounds.
[0011] The present invention therefore relates in particular to a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising: - i) one or more compounds of formula (I), as well as its optical, geometric and / or solvated isomers, such as hydrates: (I) [(O)r(AKl)< r (O^
[0012] formula (I) in which:
[0013] - Z represents a multivalent hydrocarbon radical in C2 to C40, in particular in C3 to C36, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, conjugated or not, acyclic or cyclic, aromatic or not, Z possibly being interrupted by one or more groups or heteroatoms chosen from -O-, -N(Ra)-, -S-, -C(O)-, (hetero)cycles, and their combinations;
[0014] - AK1 represents a saturated linear or branched divalent hydrocarbon chain or unsaturated in C1-C12, preferably in Ci-C6, more preferentially saturated in Ci-C6;
[0015] - AK2 represents a linear or branched monovalent hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, in Ci-C40, possibly substituted by one or more identical or different radicals chosen from -OR, -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(O)-R4)v; and / or said chain being possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, (hetero)cycle(s), and their combinations, in particular -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O- and / or -(hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle-;
[0016] - AK3 represents a saturated linear or branched divalent hydrocarbon chain or unsaturated in C1-C12, preferably in Ci-C6, more preferentially saturated in Ci-C6, even more preferentially in Ci-C4;
[0017] - R represents a hydrogen atom, a saturated linear or branched alkyl radical or unsaturated in Ci-C6, preferably in C1-C4, especially methyl, or a -C(O)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(O)-R4 radical;
[0018] - X represents -O-, -S-, -OC(O)- or -C(O)-O-;
[0019] - Y represents -OC(O)- or -C(O)-O-;
[0020] - R4 represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical in C1 to C6, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, in particular methyl or tert-butyl, more preferably methyl;
[0021] - Ra and Rb, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group (CrC4)alkyl, preferably one hydrogen atom;
[0022] - p denotes an integer equal to 0 or 1;
[0023] - m denotes an integer equal to 0, 1, 2, 3 or 4; it being understood that when m is greater than 1, then the radicals -Y-AK2 are identical or different;
[0024] - n denotes an integer equal to 0, 1, 2, 3 or 4; it being understood that when n is greater than 1, then the radicals -(O)t-(AKi)q-(OC(O)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(O)-R4)u are identical or different;
[0025] -1 denotes an integer equal to 0 or 1;
[0026] - q denotes an integer equal to 0 or 1;
[0027] - u denotes an integer equal to 1, 2 or 3;
[0028] - v denotes an integer equal to 1, 2 or 3;
[0029] it being understood that if q is equal to 0 then t is equal to 0, that (m + n) is greater than or equal to 1, and that the compounds of formula (I) contain at least two -C(O)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(O)-R4 groups;
[0030] ii) one or more fatty acids,
[0031] iii) at least one chitosan, and (iv) possibly one or more pigments,
[0032] v) possibly one or more fats different from the fatty acid(s) ii).
[0033] The composition according to the invention makes it possible to achieve the objectives as described above Previously, that is to say that the composition is a stable oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion which leads to a non-sticky coating resistant to external aggressions, for example, to water, and / or shampoos, in order to treat keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair.
[0034] In other words, the application of the composition according to the invention makes it possible to provide deposits on keratin fibers having good resistance to external aggressions, such as water, shampoos, and therefore having very good durability over time.
[0035] The deposits or coatings thus formed on the keratin fibers do not stick and transfer little or nothing, which helps to minimize discomfort problems after application.
[0036] The composition according to the invention also has the advantage of being an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion that is stable at room temperature, in particular at a temperature of 20°C.
[0037] For the purposes of this invention, "stable" means that 1) the formulation process does indeed give rise to a direct emulsion without the presence of phase separation (creaming or sedimentation) and / or aggregates and 2) that the visual and microscopic appearance, viscosity and / or pH of the composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion does not change or changes very little during a storage period, in particular at least one week at room temperature.
[0038] For the purposes of this invention, ambient temperature means a temperature of 20°C.
[0039] The composition according to the invention has in particular a creamy texture and a white to yellowish appearance that is stable over time (at least 1 week) at room temperature, in particular at a temperature of 20°C.
[0040] Advantageously, when the composition according to the invention comprises at least one pigment, and is applied to keratin fibers, in particular to human keratin fibers such as hair, it leads to a color resistant to external aggressions, preferably to a color that is permanent to water and / or shampoos.
[0041] The composition according to the invention thus makes it possible to improve the color retention of colored keratin fibers, in particular of a color induced by at least one pigment, in particular with regard to the use of one or more shampoos, in particular several shampoos.
[0042] In addition, the emulsification of the composition according to the invention leads in particular to an improvement in the permanence of the colouring in particular of the keratinous fibres, preferably compared to water and / or shampoos.
[0043] Furthermore, the composition may also include glycerin, which leads to improved color retention on keratinous materials, in particular on keratinous fibers, preferably human keratinous fibers such as hair.
[0044] The composition according to the invention can thus be applied to keratin fibers, in particular for coloring keratin fibers.
[0045] The composition according to the invention also has an improved carbon footprint.
[0046] The invention thus relates to a cosmetic treatment process for keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising at least the application to said fibers of at least one composition, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising at least one compound of formula (I), as defined above, its optical, geometric and / or isomers solvated, such as hydrates, at least one fatty acid and at least one chitosan.
[0047] Preferably, the treatment process is a process for coloring keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers, such as hair, comprising at least the application to said fibers of at least one composition, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising at least one compound of formula (I), as defined above, its optical, geometric and / or solvated isomers, such as hydrates, at least one fatty acid, at least one chitosan, and at least one pigment.
[0048] The invention also relates to the use of said composition for the treatment, preferably the coloring, of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers, such as hair.
[0049] Other objects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will become even clearer upon reading the description and example that follows.
[0050] In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the bounds of a range of values are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between" and "ranging from ... to ...".
[0051] Furthermore, the expression "at least one" used in this description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".
[0052] Similarly, the expression "at least" used in this description is equivalent to the expression "greater than or equal to".
[0053] Furthermore, the expression "coloring agent" used in this description is equivalent to the expression "coloring agent".
[0054] In a manner known per se, a compound or group in “Cn” or in “Cn” is designated as a compound or group containing in its chemical structure “n” carbon atoms.
[0055] For the purposes of the present invention, and unless otherwise indicated:
[0056] By "(hetero)aryl", we mean the aryl or heteroaryl groups.
[0057] By "(hetero)cycloalkyl", we mean cycloalkyl or heterocycloalkyl groups.
[0058] The “aryl” or “heteroaryl” radicals or the aryl or heteroaryl part of a radicals can be substituted by at least one substituent attached to a carbon atom, chosen from: - a (poly)(hydroxy)alkyl radical in Ci-C6, preferably in Ci-C4; - a halogen atom such as chlorine, fluorine or bromine; - a hydroxy group; - a C1-C2 alkoxy radical; a C2-C4 (poly)-hydroxyalkoxy radical; - an amino radical; - an amino radical substituted by one or two alkyl radicals, identical or different, in Ci-C6, Ci-C6, preferably in Ci-C4; - an acylamino radical (-N(R)-C(O)-R') in which the radical R is a hydrogen atom, - an alkyl radical in Ci-C4 and the radical R' is an alkyl radical in C1-C4; a carbamoyl radical ((R)2N-C(O)-) in which the R radicals, identical or not, represent a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical in CrC4; - an alkylsulfonylamino radical (R'-S(O)2-N(R)-) in which the radical R represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical in CrC4 and the radical R' represents an alkyl radical in CrC4, a phenyl radical; - an aminosulfonyl radical ((R)2N-S(O)2-) in which the R radicals, identical or not, represent a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical in CrC4; a carboxylic radical in acidic or salified form (preferably with an alkali metal or an ammonium, substituted or unsubstituted); - a cyano group (CN); - a polyhalogeno(Ci-C4)alkyl group, preferably trifluoromethyl (CF3).
[0059] The cyclic or heterocyclic part of a non-aromatic radical may be substituted by at least one substituent attached to a carbon atom chosen from the following groups: • hydroxy, • C2-C4 alkoxy, (poly)hydroxyalkoxy C2-C4, • alkylearbonylamino ((RC(O)-NR'-) in which the radical R' is an atom of hydrogen, an alkyl radical in CrC4 and the radical R is an alkyl radical in CrC2, amino substituted by one or two identical or different alkyl groups in CrC4; • alkylearbonyloxy ((RC(O)-O-) in which the radical R is an alkyl radical in CrC4, amino substituted by one or two identical or different alkyl groups in CrC4; • alkcoxycarbonyl ((ROC(O)-) in which the radical R is an alkyl radical in CrC4, amino substituted by one or two identical or different alkyl groups in CrC4;
[0060] - A cyclic radical, heterocyclic radical, or a non-aromatic part of a radical aryl or heteroaryl, can also be substituted by one or more oxo groups.
[0061] - A hydrocarbon chain is unsaturated when it comprises one or more double bonds and / or one or more triple bonds.
[0062] - An "aryl" radical represents a mono- or polycyclic hy group drocarbon, condensed or not, comprising from 6 to 14 carbon atoms, and of which at least one ring is aromatic; preferably the aryl radical is a phenyl, biphenyl, naphthyl, indenyl, anthracenyl, or tetrahydronaphthyl.
[0063] - A "heteroaryl" radical represents a mono- or polycyclic group, condensed or not, comprising 5 to 14 links, 1 to 6 heteroatoms chosen from nitrogen, oxygen, sulfur and selenium atoms, and of which at least one ring is aromatic; Preferably a heteroaryl radical is chosen from acridinyl, benzimidazolyl, benzobistriazolyl, benzopyrazolyl, benzopyridazinyl, benzoquinolyl, benzothiazolyl, benzotriazolyl, benzoxazolyl, pyridinyl, tetrazolyl, dihydrothiazolyl, imidazopyridinyl, imidazolyl, indolyl, isoquinolyl, naphthoimidazolyl, naphthooxazolyl, naphthopyrazolyl, oxadiazolyl, oxazolyl, oxazolopyridyl, phenazinyl, phenoxazolyl, pyrazinyl, pyrazolyl, pyrilyl, pyrazoyltriazyl, pyridyl, pyridinoimidazolyl, pyrrolyl, quinolyl, tetrazolyl, thiadiazolyl, thiazolyl, thiazolopyridinyl, thiazoylimidazolyl, thiopyrylyl, triazolyl, xanthylyl.
[0064] - A "cyclic" or "cycloalkyl" radical is a non-cyclic hydrocarbon radical aromatic, mono- or polycyclic, condensed or non-condensed, containing from 5 to 14 carbon atoms, which may have from 1 to several unsaturations, preferably the cycloalkyl is a cyclohexyl group.
[0065] - A "heterocyclic" or "heterocycloalkyl" radical is a non-cyclic radical aromatic mono or polycyclic, condensed or non-condensed, containing 3 to 9 links, comprising 1 to 4 heteroatoms chosen from nitrogen, oxygen, sulfur and selenium atoms, preferably the heterocycloalkyl is chosen from epoxide, pi-perazinyl, piperidinyl, morpholinyl, or dithiolane.
[0066] - An "alkyl" radical is a saturated hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, in par particular in Ci-C6, preferably in Ci-C4.
[0067] - An "alkoxy" radical is an alkyl-oxy radical in which the alkyl radical is a hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, in Ci-C6 preferentially in Ci-C4.
[0068] - A "(poly)(hydroxy)alkyl" radical designates a Ci-C6 alkyl radical, of Preferably Ci-C4, possibly substituted by one or more hydroxyl radicals, preferably substituted by 1 to 4 hydroxyl groups, more particularly between 1 and 3. A. Composition as an oil-in-water emulsion
[0069] As indicated above, the composition according to the invention is an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion.
[0070] The composition according to the invention thus comprises an oily phase and an aqueous phase, in particular a dispersed oily phase and a continuous aqueous phase.
[0071] The composition according to the invention includes in particular an aqueous phase comprising at least one chitosan and at least one fatty acid as defined below.
[0072] Preferably, the weight ratio between the fat phase and the aqueous phase varies from 0.001 to 6, preferably from 0.01 to 1, more preferably varies from 0.05 to 0.3.
[0073] Al Aqueous phase
[0074] The aqueous phase is contained in the composition according to the invention preferably in an amount from 40 to 99% by weight, preferably in an amount from 80 to 99% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0075] The aqueous phase includes, in particular, water, at least one chitosan and at least one acid, organic or mineral, preferably organic.
[0076] According to a preferred embodiment, the aqueous phase comprises at least one organic acid having a pKa less than 5, as defined below.
[0077] The aqueous phase preferably comprises water, at least one chitosan, and at least one acid, organic or mineral, preferably organic and having a pKa less than 5, as defined below.
[0078] The aqueous phase preferably has a pH less than or equal to 6, better a pH ranging from 4 to 5.5.
[0079] Preferably, the aqueous phase is present in an amount from 40 to 99% by weight, better in an amount from 80 to 99% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and comprises water, at least one chitosan, and at least one acid, organic or mineral, preferably organic and having a pKa less than 5.
[0080] Preferably, the aqueous phase comprises water in a content of 70 to 99% by weight, at least one chitosan, in a content of 0.5 to 15% by weight, and at least one acid, preferably at least one Ci-C6 carboxylic acid of formula (Q), as defined below and having a pKa less than 5 in a content of 0.5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.
[0081] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises:
[0082] - preferably a content ranging from 40 to 99% by weight, more preferably a content ranging from 80 to 99% by weight, relative to the total composition of said composition, of an aqueous phase comprising: - water in a concentration ranging from 70 to 99% by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase, - at least one chitosan, in a content ranging from 0.5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase, and - at least one organic acid, preferably at least one Ci-C6 carboxylic acid of formula (Q), as defined below and having a pKa less than 5 in a content ranging from 0.5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase. Chitosan
[0083] The composition according to the invention contains iii) at least one chitosan.
[0084] Preferably, chitosan is chosen from among the poly(D-glucosamines).
[0085] Preferably, the degree of acetylation of chitosan is less than or equal to 30%, plus preferably less than or equal to 15% and even more preferably varies from 1 at 10%.
[0086] Chitosan may be present in the aqueous phase in a content ranging from 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferably in a content ranging from 0.5 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.
[0087] Chitosan may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.5 to 10% by weight, preferably in a content ranging from 2 to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Acid with a pKa less than 5
[0088] As indicated above, the aqueous phase comprises one or more acids having a pKa less than 5.
[0089] The acid or acids having a pKa less than 5 is or are preferably organic acids.
[0090] The acid or acids having a pKa less than 5 is or are preferably carboxylic acids in Ci_6.
[0091] Preferably, the acid(s) having a pKa less than 5 correspond(s) to the following formula (Q): in which: A represents a monovalent group when n is 0, or a polyvalent group when n is greater than or equal to 1; A represents a saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or non-cyclic, aromatic or non-aromatic hydrocarbon group, comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms, and / or substituted by one or more hydroxy groups; preferably A represents a monovalent alkyl group in the form of Ci-C6 or phenyl, or a saturated hydrocarbon polyvalent group in the form of Ci-C6 or phenylene, A being optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups; n represents an integer from 0 to 10, preferably from 0 to 5, better from 0 to 2.
[0092] More particularly, the acid or acids of formula (Q) are chosen from among the α-hydroxy acids, in which A represents either a phenyl group, or a hydrocarbon group saturated in Ci-C6, in particular in Ci-C4, substituted by one or more hydroxy groups; preferably by an OH group; and n goes from 0 to 2.
[0093] More specifically, the acid or acids with a pKa less than 5 is or are chosen from those of formula (Q) in which: n=0 and A represents a C1-C6 alkyl group, particularly at C2-C4, or a C1-C6 alkyl group, particularly at C2-C4, substituted by an OH group; or n=0 and A represents a phenyl group, or a phenyl group substituted by an OH group; or n = 1 or 2, and A represents a Ci-C6 alkyl group, in particular C2-C4, di- or trivalent, or a Ci-C6 alkyl group, in particular C2-C4, di- or trivalent substituted by an OH group.
[0094] Even more preferably, the acid or acids with a pKa less than 5 is or are chosen from salicylic acid, citric acid, glutaric acid, lactic acid and mixtures thereof, preferably from lactic acid or citric acid.
[0095] According to one embodiment, the aqueous phase comprises a single acid having a pKa less than 5.
[0096] According to one embodiment, the aqueous phase comprises at least lactic acid.
[0097] Even better, the acid having a pKa less than 5 is lactic acid.
[0098] The acid(s) having a pKa less than 5 may be present in the aqueous phase in a content ranging from 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferably in a content ranging from 0.5 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.
[0099] The acid(s) having a pKa less than 5 may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.5 to 10% by weight, preferably in a content ranging from 2 to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0100] A2. Fatty phase
[0101] The fatty phase is contained in the composition according to the invention preferably in an amount from 0.5 to 50% by weight, preferably in an amount from 0.5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0102] For the purposes of this invention, the oily phase corresponds to the oily phase of the oil-in-water emulsion. The terms "oily phase" and "oily phase" may be used interchangeably in the description.
[0103] The fatty phase includes in particular at least one compound of formula (I), as well as their optical, geometric and / or solvated isomers, such as hydrates, as defined below, and at least one fatty acid ii) as defined below.
[0104] Preferably, the fat phase is present in the composition in an amount from 0.5 to 50% by weight, preferably in an amount from 0.5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and comprises i) at least one compound of formula (I), as well as their optical, geometric and / or solvated isomers, such as hydrates, as defined below, and ii) at least one fatty acid as defined below.
[0105] The fatty phase may further contain v) at least one fat, preferably at least one oil as defined below, which is different from the fatty acid(s) ii).
[0106] According to one embodiment, the oily phase comprises i) at least one compound of formula (I), as well as their optical, geometric and / or solvated isomers, such as hydrates, as defined below, ii) at least one fatty acid as defined below, and v) at least one fat, preferably at least one oil different from fatty acids ii).
[0107] According to a preferred embodiment, the fatty phase is present in the composition in an amount from 0.5 to 50% by weight, preferably in an amount from 0.5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and comprises i) at least one compound of formula (I), as well as their optical, geometric and / or solvated isomers, such as hydrates, as defined below, ii) at least one fatty acid as defined below and v) at least one fat, preferably at least one oil different from the fatty acid(s) ii). Compound of formula (I):
[0108] The composition according to the invention comprises i) at least one compound of formula (I).
[0109] As stated previously, the compound(s) of formula (I), as well as their optical, geometric and / or solvated isomers, such as hydrates, is or are such that: (I) (H)p - - (Y-AK2X [(0)^0
[0110] formula (I) in which:
[0111] - Z represents a multivalent hydrocarbon radical in C2 to C40, in particular in C3 to C36, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, conjugated or not, acyclic or cyclic, aromatic or not, Z possibly being interrupted by one or more groups or heteroatoms chosen from -O-, -N(Ra)-, -S-, -C(O)-, (hetero)cycles, and their combinations;
[0112] - AK1 represents a saturated linear or branched divalent hydrocarbon chain or unsaturated in C1-C12, preferably in Ci-C6, more preferentially saturated in Ci-C6;
[0113] - AK2 represents a linear or branched monovalent hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, in Ci-C40, possibly substituted by one or more identical or different radicals chosen from -OR, -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(O)-R4)v; and / or said chain being possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, (hetero)cycle(s), and their combinations, in particular -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O- and / or -(hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle-;
[0114] - AK3 represents a saturated linear or branched divalent hydrocarbon chain or unsaturated in C1-C12, preferably in Ci-C6, more preferentially saturated in Ci-C6, even more preferentially in CrC4;
[0115] - R represents a hydrogen atom, a saturated linear or branched alkyl radical or unsaturated in Ci-C6, preferably in C1-C4, especially methyl, or a -C(O)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(O)-R4 radical;
[0116] - X represents -O-, -S-, -OC(O)- or -C(O)-O-;
[0117] - Y represents -OC(O)- or -C(O)-O-;
[0118] - R4 represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical in C1 to C6, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, in particular methyl or tert-butyl, more preferably methyl;
[0119] - Ra and Rb, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group (CrC4)alkyl, preferably one hydrogen atom;
[0120] - p denotes an integer equal to 0 or 1;
[0121] - m denotes an integer equal to 0, 1, 2, 3 or 4; it being understood that when m is greater than 1, then the radicals -Y-AK2 are identical or different;
[0122] - n denotes an integer equal to 0, 1, 2, 3 or 4; it being understood that when n is greater than 1, then the radicals -(O)t-(AKi)q-(OC(O)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(O)-R4)u are identical or different;
[0123] -1 denotes an integer equal to 0 or 1;
[0124] - q denotes an integer equal to 0 or 1;
[0125] - u denotes an integer equal to 1, 2 or 3;
[0126] - v denotes an integer equal to 1, 2 or 3;
[0127] it being understood that if q is equal to 0 then t is equal to 0, that (m + n) is greater than or equal to 1, and that the compounds of formula (I) contain at least two -C(O)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(O)-R4 groups.
[0128] The compound(s) of formula (I), as well as their optical, geometric and / or solvated isomers, such as hydrates, have in particular a molar mass ranging from 500 to 10,000 g / mol, more preferably a molar mass ranging from 1,000 to 4,000 g / mol.
[0129] Preferably, the compound(s) of formula (I), as well as their optical, geometric and / or solvated isomers, such as hydrates, is or are such that Z denotes a radical chosen from: a) divalent radicals, preferably C2-C30, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -O-, -N(Ra)-, -S-, -C(O)- and / or (hetero)cycle(s), in particular the radicals -CH2-(CH2)f, in which f denotes an integer between 1 and 10, preferably between 1 and 5, or such as the radicals -(CH2)g-(heterocycle)-O-(CH2)h-(heterocycle)-(CH2)j-, in which h denotes 0, 1 or 2, preferably 0 or 1, and g and j independently denote an integer between 1 and 3, preferably 1; b) trivalent radicals, preferably C3-C6, in particular CH2-CH-CH2-; and c) tetravalent radicals, preferably in C3-Ci2, in particular -CH2-C-CH2-CH2 - CH2-, or -CH2-C-CH2- or the radicals -(CH2)a-CH-CH-(CH2)b-, in which a and b independently denote an integer equal to 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10, preferably a is greater than b.
[0130] According to a preferred embodiment, a (hetero)cycle designates a heterocyclic divalent radical (i.e. a heterocycle), preferably a heterocycloalkyl radical, more particularly a heterocycloalkyl divalent radical comprising 3, 5 or 6 links such as an epoxide divalent radical, a tetrahydrofuran divalent radical or a tetrahydropyran divalent radical, said (hetero)cycle being optionally substituted by one or more radicals chosen from -OR with R as defined above, and in particular -OH or -OC(O)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(O)-R4).
[0131] According to a preferred embodiment, AK2 represents a linear or branched monovalent hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, in Ci2-C28, optionally substituted by one or more identical or different radicals chosen from -OR, -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(O)-R4)v, and / or said chain being optionally interrupted by -OC(O)- or -C(O)-O-.
[0132] According to a first embodiment, the compound(s) of formula (I), as well as their optical, geometric and / or solvated isomers, such as hydrates, are such that:
[0133] - Z represents the trivalent radical -CH2-CH- CH2- ;
[0134] -pestégalàO;
[0135] -nestégalàO;
[0136] -mesequals3;
[0137] - AK2 represents a linear or branched monovalent hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, in Ci2-C24j possibly substituted by one or more identical or different radicals chosen from -OR, -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(O)-R4)v, and / or said chain being possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, epoxides, and their combinations, in particular -O(CO)- or -C(O)-O-;
[0138] - Y, AK3, v, R, X, R4, Ra and Rb being such as defined previously for the formula (i);
[0139] it being understood that the compounds contain at least 2 radicals -C(O)-C(Ra)(Rb )-C(O)-R4
[0140] According to a preferred embodiment, AK2 represents a linear or branched monovalent hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, in Ci2-C24 optionally substituted by one or more identical or different radicals chosen from -OR, -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(O)-R4)v, and / or said chain being optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, and their combinations, in particular -OC(O)- or -C(O)-O-.
[0141] According to this embodiment, the compound(s) of formula (I) are in particular chosen from the compounds (1), (2), (3), (4), (7), (8), (9) and (11) below, as well as their optical, geometric and / or solvated isomers, such as hydrates:
[0142] [Chem.3] (1)
[0143] [Chem.4] (2)
[0144] [Chem.5]
[0147] [Chem.8] (8) (H)
[0150] According to a second embodiment, the compound(s) of formula (I), as well as their optical, geometric and / or solvated isomers, such as hydrates, are such that:
[0151] -pestégalàO;
[0152] - Z represents a multivalent hydrocarbon radical in C4 to C24, particularly in C 6 to C2oplus particularly in CM to C20, especially Cp, linear or branched, saturated
[0153]
[0154]
[0155]
[0156]
[0157]
[0158]
[0159] or unsaturated, preferably saturated, acyclic, Z being further possibly substituted by one or more radicals -[(O)t-(AKl)q- (OC(O)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(O)-R4)u]n; - n denotes an integer equal to 0, 1, 2, 3 or 4; it being understood that when n is greater than 1, then the radicals -(0)t-(AKi)q-(0-C(0)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(0)-R4)u are identical or different; preferably n is non-zero; - m is equal to 1; - AK2 represents a linear or branched monovalent hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, in C3-C8, in particular C4 or C6, substituted by one or more identical or different radicals chosen from -OR, -X-AK3 -(OC(O)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(O)-R4)v, preferably substituted by one or more -OR radicals; and / or said chain being optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, (hetero)cycle(s), and their combinations, in particular -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O-, -(hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle-, and preferably being uninterrupted; - Y, AK1, AK3, t, q, u, v, R, X, R4, Ra and Rb being such as defined previously for formula (I); it being understood that the said compound contains at least 2 radicals -C(O)-C(Ra)(Rb )-C(O)-R4. According to this embodiment, the compound(s) of formula (I) are in particular chosen from compounds (5) and (6) below, as well as their optical, geometric and / or solvated isomers, such as hydrates: [Chem. 11] K
[0160] [Chem. 12] (6)
[0161] According to a third embodiment, the compound(s) of formula (I), as well as their optical, geometric and / or solvated isomers, such as hydrates, are such that:
[0162] -pestégalàO;
[0163] - n + m is equal to 4, m being non-zero;
[0164] - Z represents a tetravalent radical, hydrocarbon at C2 to C24, particularly at C3 to Cio, in particular C3, unsubstituted and uninterrupted, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated and acyclic;
[0165] - AK2 independently represent a linear monovalent hydrocarbon chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, in Ci2-C24, preferably in Ci6-C2o, in particular C[8, optionally substituted by one or more identical or different radicals selected from -OR and -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(O)-R4)v, preferably substituted by one or more radicals -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(Ra)(Rb )-C(O)-R4)v; and / or said chain optionally being interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, (hetero)cycle(s), and their combinations, in particular -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O-, -(hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle-, and preferably being uninterrupted;
[0166] - AK3 represents a saturated or divalent linear or branched hydrocarbon chain unsaturated in CrCi2, preferably in Ci-C6, more preferentially saturated in Ci-C6, even more preferentially in C2-C4, better in C3;
[0167] - v is such as defined previously for formula (I); preferably v is equal to 2;
[0168] - X is such as defined previously for formula (I); preferably X denotes a sulfur atom;
[0169] - Y, AK1, u, t, q, R, R4, Ra and Rb are as defined previously for the formula (i);
[0170] it being understood that said compound contains at least 2 -C(O)-C(Ra)(Rb) radicals )-C(0)-R4.
[0171] According to a preferred embodiment, m is equal to 3, n is equal to 1 and u is equal to 1.
[0172] According to a preferred embodiment, t is equal to 0.
[0173] According to a preferred embodiment, q is equal to 0.
[0174] According to a preferred embodiment, Y denotes -C(O)-O.
[0175] According to a preferred embodiment, none of the AK2 radicals are interrupted.
[0176] According to a preferred embodiment, the AK2 radicals are saturated.
[0177] According to a preferred embodiment, the AK2 radicals are not substituted by - GOLD.
[0178] According to a preferred embodiment, AK3 represents a linear or branched divalent hydrocarbon chain saturated or unsaturated in Ci-C6, more preferably saturated in Ci-C6, even more preferably saturated in Ci-C4, better saturated in C3.
[0179] According to this embodiment, the compound(s) of formula (I) are in particular chosen from the compounds (10) below, as well as their optical, geometric and / or solvated isomers, such as hydrates:
[0180] [Chem. 13] (10)
[0181] According to a fourth embodiment, the compound(s) of formula (I), as well as their optical, geometric and / or solvated isomers, such as hydrates, are such that:
[0182] - p is equal to 1;
[0183] - Z represents a multivalent hydrocarbon radical in the Ci4 to C24 range, particularly in C16 to C20, preferably Cp, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated and acyclic; Z being further optionally substituted by one or more radicals -[(O)t-(AKl)q-(OC(O)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(O)-R4)u]n, preferably being unsubstituted;
[0184] - AK2 represents a linear or branched monovalent hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, in Ci4-C30, preferably in C20-C29, substituted by one or more identical or different radicals chosen from -OR, -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(O)-R4)v, preferably substituted by one or more -OR radicals; and / or said chain being optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, (hetero)cycle(s), and their combinations, in particular -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O-, -(hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle-, preferably being interrupted by -OC(O)- or -C(O)-O-;
[0185] - X is such as defined previously for formula (I), preferably X denotes a sulfur atom;
[0186] - Y, AK1, AK3, n, m, v, t, q, u, R, R4, Ra and Rb being such as defined previously for formula (I);
[0187] it being understood that said compound contains at least 2 C(O)-C(Ra)(Rb )-C(O)-R4 radicals.
[0188] According to a preferred embodiment, n is equal to 0 and m is equal to 1.
[0189] According to a preferred embodiment, Z is a divalent radical.
[0190] According to a preferred embodiment, if Z is an unsaturated chain, AK2 is a unsaturated chain, and if Z is a saturated chain, AK2 is a saturated chain.
[0191] According to this embodiment, the compound(s) of formula (I), as well as their optical, geometric and / or solvated isomers, such as hydrates, are in particular of formula (lie):
[0192] HZY-AK4-Y'-ZH (lie)
[0193] formula (lie) in which:
[0194] - Y is such as defined previously for formula (I);
[0195] - Z represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical in CM to C24, in particular in Ci6 to C 20, preferably in Cp, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated;
[0196] - Y' represents -C(O)-O- or -OC(O)- it being understood that if Y represents -OC(O)-, Y' represents -C(O)-O-, and if Y represents -C(O)-O-, Y' represents -OC(O)-;
[0197] - AK4 designates a saturated divalent hydrocarbon radical of 5 or 6 carbon atoms, substituted by at least two radicals -OR with R being such as defined previously in formula (I);
[0198] it being understood that the compounds of formula (lie) contain at least 2 radicals -C(0)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(0)-R4, and preferably 4 radicals -C(O)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(O)-R4.
[0199] According to this embodiment, the compound(s) of formula (I) are in particular chosen from the compounds (12) below, as well as their optical, geometric and / or solvated isomers, such as hydrates:
[0200] [Chem. 14]
[0201] According to a fifth embodiment, the compound(s) of formula (I), as well as their optical, geometric and / or solvated isomers, such as hydrates, are such that:
[0202] - p is equal to 0;
[0203] - Z represents a tetravalent hydrocarbon radical in C2 to C24, in particular in C3 to Cio, preferably in C4 or C5, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated and acyclic, Z being further substituted by one or more radicals -[(O)t -(AKl)q-(OC(O)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(O)-R4)u]n, preferably n being equal to 1;
[0204] - n + m is equal to 4, preferably m is equal to 3;
[0205] - AK2 independently represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, in CM to C30, preferably from Ci6 to C24, preferably in Cp, said chain being optionally substituted by one or more identical or different radicals chosen from -OR, -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(Ra)(Rb )-C(O)-R4)v, preferably substituted by one or more -OR radicals; and / or said chain being optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, (hetero)cycle(s), and their combinations, in particular -OC(O)- or -C(O)-O-, -(hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle-, preferably being uninterrupted;
[0206] - X is such as defined previously for formula (I), and preferably X denotes an atom of sulfur;
[0207] - Y, AK1, AK3, u, t, q, v, n, m, R, R4, Ra and Rb being such as defined previously for formula (I);
[0208] it being understood that said compound contains at least 2 radicals C(O)-C(Ra)(Rb )-(2(O)^,
[0209] According to a preferred embodiment, t is equal to 0 and u is equal to 1.
[0210] According to a preferred embodiment, all AK2 radicals are identical, and Preference is given that all Y radicals are identical.
[0211] According to a preferred embodiment, Y denotes -OC(O)-.
[0212] According to a particular embodiment, the compounds according to this variant have the general formula (lid), as well as their optical, geometric and / or solvated isomers, such as hydrates:
[0213] [AK'2-OCO-CH2]3-C-CH2-OC(O)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(O)-R4 (lid)
[0214] formula (lid) wherein AK'2 represents a linear or branched monovalent hydrocarbon chain, preferably linear, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, in C14-C30, preferably in Ci6-C24, preferably in Cp, said chain being substituted by one or more identical or different radicals selected from -OR, -S-AK3-(OC(O)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(O)-R4)v, preferably substituted by one or more -OR radicals; AK3, v, R, R4, Ra and Rb being such as defined above for formula (I), it being understood that said compounds contain at least 2 C(O)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(O)-R4 radicals.
[0215] According to a sixth embodiment, the compound(s) of formula (I), as well as their optical, geometric and / or solvated isomers, such as hydrates, are such that:
[0216] -pestégalàO;
[0217] -m is non-zero;
[0218] - Z represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical in C2 to C24, in particular in C3 to Ci2, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, conjugated or not, preferably not conjugated, acyclic or cyclic, aromatic or not, preferably not aromatic, said radical Z being further interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O-, -N(Ra)-, -S-, -C(O)-, heterocycloalkyl(s) comprising 5 or 6 links, and their combinations;
[0219] - AK2 represents a linear or branched monovalent hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, in Ci4-C30, preferably in Ci4-C24, preferably in Cp, said chain being optionally substituted by one or more identical or different radicals chosen from -OR and -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(Ra)(Rb j-QOj-RJv), preferably unsubstituted; and / or said chain being optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, (hetero)cycles, and their combinations, in particular -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O- or -(hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle-, preferably possibly interrupted by -OC(O)- or -C(O)-O-, and more preferably being uninterrupted;
[0220] - X is such as defined previously for formula (I), and preferably X denotes an atom of sulfur;
[0221] - Y, AK1, AK3, v, t, q, u, R, R4, Ra and Rb being such as defined previously for the formula (I),
[0222] it being understood that said compound contains at least 2 C(O)-C(Ra)(Rb )-C(O)-R4 radicals.
[0223] According to a preferred embodiment, according to this variant, Z denotes a divalent radical -(CH2)g-(heterocycle)-O-(CH2)h-(heterocycle)-(CH2)j- in which h is equal to 0, 1 or 2, preferably is equal to 0 or 1, g and j independently denote an integer between 1 and 3, preferably 1, (heterocycle) denotes a heterocycloalkyl divalent radical comprising 5 or 6 members, in particular a divalent radical of tetrahydrofuran or a divalent radical of tetrahydropyran, said heterocycle being optionally substituted by one or more radicals selected from -OR, with R as defined above for formula (I), and in particular -OH or -OC(O)-C(Ra)(Rb )-C(O)-R4).
[0224] According to a particular embodiment, the compounds according to this variant have the general formula (lie), as well as their optical, geometric and / or solvated isomers, such as hydrates:
[0225] AK' '2-C(O)-O-(CH2)g-(heterocycle)-O-(CH2)h-(heterocycle)-(CH2)jO-CO-AK' '2 (lie)
[0226] formula (lie) in which:
[0227] - h is equal to 0, 1 or 2, preferably is equal to 0 or 1;
[0228] - g and j independently denote an integer between 1 and 3, of preference 1;
[0229] - (heterocycle) designates a heterocycloalkyl divalent radical comprising 5 or 6 links substituted by one or more identical or different radicals chosen from -OR, with R as defined previously for formula (I), and in particular -OH or -OC(O)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(O)-R4);
[0230] - AK' '2 represents a linear or branched monovalent hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, in Ci4-C30, preferably in Ci4-C24, preferably in Cp, said chain being optionally substituted by one or more identical or different radicals selected from -OH, -O-C(O)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(O)-R4) and -S-AK3-(OC(O)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(O)-R4)v, preferably unsubstituted; and / or said chain being optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, (hetero)cycle(s), and their combinations, in particular -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O- or -(hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle-, preferably possibly interrupted by -OC(O)- or -C(O)-O-, and more preferably being uninterrupted;
[0231] it being understood that said compound contains at least 2 radicals -C(O)-C(Ra)(Rb )-C(O)-R4.
[0232] According to this embodiment, the compounds of formula (I) or (lie) are in particular chosen from the compounds (14) below, as well as their optical isomers, geometric and / or solvated, such as hydrates:
[0233] [Chem. 15] J (14)
[0234] with W being a hydrogen atom or -C(0)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(0)-R4, and said compound containing at least two -C(0)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(0)-R4 groups.
[0235] Preferably, the compound(s) of formula (I) is or are chosen from the following compounds of formula (la), as well as their optical, geometric and / or solvated isomers, such as hydrates:
[0236] Z-(Y-AK2)3 (la) formula (the) in which: - Z represents -CH2-CH-CH2- ; - AK2 independently designates a linear or branched monovalent hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, in Ci2-C24, possibly substituted by one or more identical or different radicals chosen from -OR and -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(R a)(Rb)-C(O)-R4)v; and / or said chain being possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, epoxides, and their combinations, in particular -OC(O)- and -C(O)-O-; - Y, AK3, v, R, X, R4, Ra and Rb being such as defined previously, preferably Y denotes -OC(O); it being understood that the said compound contains at least 2 radicals C(O)-C(Ra)(Rb )-C(O)-R4.
[0237] Preferably, the compound(s) of formula (I) is or are chosen from the following compounds of formula (Ib), as well as their optical, geometric and / or solvated isomers, such as hydrates:
[0238] m(AK2 -Y) - Z - [(O)t-(AKl)q-(OC(O)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(O)-R4)u]n (Ib) formula (Ib) in which:
[0239] - n + m is equal to 4, m being non-zero; m and n being such as defined previously;
[0240] - Z represents a tetravalent hydrocarbon radical in C2 to C24, in particular in C3 to Cio, preferably in C3, unsubstituted and uninterrupted, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated and acyclic;
[0241] - AK2 independently represent a linear monovalent hydrocarbon chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, in Ci2-C24, preferably in Ci6-C20, preferably in C[8, optionally substituted by one or more identical or different radicals selected from -OR, -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(O)-R4)v, preferably substituted by one or more radicals -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(O)-R4)v; and / or said chain being optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, (hetero)cycle(s), and their combinations, in particular -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O- or -(hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle-, preferably being uninterrupted;
[0242] - AK3 represents a saturated linear or branched divalent hydrocarbon chain or unsaturated in CrCi2, preferably in Ci-C6, more preferentially saturated in Ci-C6, even more preferentially in C2-C4, preferably in C3;
[0243] - v is such as defined previously, preferably v is equal to 2;
[0244] - X is as defined above, preferably X designates a sulfur atom;
[0245] - Y, AK1, t, q, R, R4, Ra and Rb being as defined previously;
[0246] it being understood that said compound contains at least 2 radicals -C(O)-C(Ra)(Rb )-C(O)-R4.
[0247] Preferably, the compound(s) of formula (I) is or are chosen from the following compounds of formula (I), as well as their optical, geometric and / or solvated isomers, such as hydrates:
[0248] m(AK2 -Y) - ZH - [(O)t-(AKl)q-(OC(O)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(O)-R4)u]n (le)
[0249] formula (the) in which:
[0250] - Z represents a multivalent hydrocarbon radical in C24 CM, particularly in Ci6 to C20tel as Cp, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated and acyclic, Z being further optionally substituted by one or more radicals -[(O) t-(AKl)q-(O-C(O)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(O)-R4)u]n, preferably unsubstituted;
[0251] - AK2 represents a linear or branched monovalent hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, in Ci4-C30, preferably in C20-C29, substituted by one or more identical or different radicals chosen from -OR and -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(O)-R4)v, preferably substituted by one or more -OR radicals; and / or said chain being optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, (hetero)cycle(s), and their combinations, in particular -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O- or (hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle, preferably interrupted by -OC(O)- or -C(O)-O-;
[0252] - X is as defined above, and preferably X designates a sulfur atom;
[0253] - Y, AK1, AK3, n, m, v, t, q, u, R, R4, Ra and Rb being as defined above;
[0254] it being understood that said compound contains at least 2 -C(O)-C(Ra)(Rb) radicals )-C(0)-R4.
[0255] Preferably, the compound(s) of formula (I) is or are chosen from the following compounds of formula (Id), as well as their optical, geometric and / or solvated isomers, such as hydrates:
[0256] m(AK2 -Y) - Z - [(O)t-(AKl)q-(OC(O)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(O)-R4)u]n (Id)
[0257] formula (Id) in which:
[0258] - n + m is equal to 4, preferably m is equal to 3;
[0259] - Z represents a tetravalent hydrocarbon radical in C2 to C24, in particular in C3 to Cio, in particular in C4 or C5, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated or acyclic, Z being further substituted by one or more radicals -[(O)t -(AKl)q-(OC(O)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(O)-R4)u]n, preferably n is equal to 1;
[0260] - AK2 independently represents a linear monovalent hydrocarbon chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, in Ci4-C30, preferably in Ci6-C24, preferably in Cp, said chain being optionally substituted by one or more identical or different radicals chosen from -OR or -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(O)-R4)v, preferably substituted by one or more -OR radicals; and / or said chain being optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, (hetero)cycle(s), and their combinations, in particular -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O- or (hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle, preferably being uninterrupted; X is as defined above, preferably X denotes a sulfur atom; Y, AK1, AK3, v, R, Ri, Ra and Rb being as defined above,
[0261] it being understood that these compounds contain at least 2 radicals -C(O)-C(Ra)(Rb j-QOj-R,.
[0262] Preferably, the compound(s) of formula (I) is or are chosen from the following compounds of formula (I), as well as their optical, geometric and / or solvated isomers, such as hydrates:
[0263] m(AK2-Y) - Z - [(O)t-(AKl)q-(OC(O)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(O)-R4)u]n (the)
[0264] formula (the) in which:
[0265] - n + m is equal to 2, m being non-zero, preferably m being equal to 2; n is such that defined previously, preferably n is zero;
[0266] - Z represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical in C2 to C24, in particular in C3 to C[2, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, conjugated or not, preferably not conjugated, acyclic or cyclic, aromatic or not, preferably not aromatic, said radical Z being further interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O-, -N(Ra)-, -S-, -C(O)-, (hetero)cycle(s), and combinations thereof; preferably Z denotes a divalent radical -(CH2)g-(heterocycle)-O-(CH2)h-(heterocycle)-(CH2)j- in which h denotes 0, 1, or 2, preferably 0 or 1, g and j independently denote an integer between 1 and 3, preferably 1; (heterocycle) denotes a radical divalent heterocyclic (i.e. a heterocycle), preferably a heterocycloalkyl radical, more particularly a divalent heterocycloalkyl radical comprising 5 or 6 links, in particular a divalent tetrahydrofuran radical or a divalent tetrahydropyran radical, said heterocycle being optionally substituted by one or more radicals chosen from -OR with R as defined above, and in particular -OH or -OC(O)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(O)-R4);
[0267] - AK2 represents a linear or branched monovalent hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, in Ci4-C30, preferably Ci4-C24, preferably in Cp, said chain being optionally substituted by one or more identical or different radicals chosen from -OR and -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(Ra)(Rb )-C(O)-R4)v, preferably unsubstituted; and / or said chain being optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, (hetero)cycle(s), and their combinations, in particular -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O- or -(hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle-, preferably possibly interrupted by -OC(O)- or -C(O)-O-, and more preferably uninterrupted;
[0268] - X is as defined previously, preferably X designates a sulfur atom;
[0269] - Y, AK1, AK3, v, t, q, u, R, R4, Ra and Rb being as defined previously;
[0270] it being understood that said compound contains at least 2 C(O)-C(Ra)(Rb) radicals )-C(O)-R4.
[0271] According to a preferred embodiment, the compound(s) of formula (I) are selected from compounds (1) to (14) below, as well as their optical, geometric and / or solvated isomers, such as hydrates:
[0272] [Chem. 16] (3)
[0275] [Chem. 19]
[0277] (5) [Chem.21]
[0278] (7)
[0279] [Chem.23] (8)
[0280] [Chem.24] (10)
[0282] [Chem.26]
[0283] (H) [Chem.27]
[0284] (12) [Chem.28]
[0285] (13) [Chem.29]
[0286]
[0287] (14) with W being a hydrogen atony or -C(O)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(O)-R4, and said compound containing at least two -C(O)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(O)-R4 groups. According to a preferred embodiment, the compound(s) of formula (I) are chosen
[0288] among the compounds (1), (3), (4), (8), (9), (10) and (11) below, as well as their optical, geometric and / or solvated isomers, such as hydrates: [Chem. 30]
[0289] (1) [Chem.31] (3) (9) (H)
[0295] Preferably, the compound(s) of formula (I) is or are chosen from among the compounds of formula (I) as defined in the first variant described above, namely compounds of formula (I) such as:
[0296] - Z represents the trivalent radical -CH2-CH- CH2- ;
[0297] - p is equal to 0;
[0298] - n is equal to 0;
[0299] - m is equal to 3;
[0300] - AK2 represents a linear or branched monovalent hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, in Ci2-C24j possibly substituted by one or more identical or different radicals chosen from -OR, -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(O)-R4)v, and / or said chain being possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, epoxides, and their combinations, in particular -O(CO)- or -C(O)-O-; preferably AK2 represents a linear or branched monovalent hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, in Ci2-C24 optionally substituted by one or more identical or different radicals chosen from -OR, -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(O)-R4)v, and / or said chain optionally being interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, and their combinations, in particular -OC(O)- or -C(O)-O-.
[0301] - Y, AK3, v, R, X, R4, Ra and Rb being such as defined previously for the formula (i);
[0302] it being understood that the compounds contain at least 2 radicals -C(O)-C(Ra)(Rb )-C(O)-R4.
[0303] as well as their optical, geometric and / or solvated isomers, such as hydrates.
[0304] Preferably, the compound(s) of formula (I) is or are chosen from the compounds (1), (3), (4), (7), (8), (9) and (11) as described above, and their optical, geometric and / or solvated isomers, such as hydrates, more preferably chosen from compounds (4) and (11) as described above, and their optical, geometric and / or solvated isomers, such as hydrates.
[0305] The compound(s) of formula (I) is or are present in the fat phase in an amount from 0.5% to 99.99%, preferably in a content from 50 to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the fat phase.
[0306] The compound(s) of formula (I), as defined above, may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1 to 25% by weight, preferably in a content ranging from 0.5 to 15% by weight, and even more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preparation of the compounds of formula (I)
[0307] The compound(s) of formula (I) can be prepared by the succession of The following reactions: First step
[0308] In a first step, a commercial polyol, preferably natural, of formula (H)pZ(OH)m' is reacted with m equivalents of fatty derivatives R'CO-AK'2 with m' greater than or equal to m, and m being as defined above, under conditions known to the person skilled in the art to form an ester bond Y according to the scheme below:
[0309] (H)pZ(OH)m +mR'C0-AK'2 -> (H)pZ(OH)m,m(YAK'2)m
[0310] diagram in which:
[0311] - Y represents -OC(O)- ;
[0312] - R' designating in particular -OH or -Cl; preferably R' designates -OH;
[0313] - AK'2 represents a linear or branched, unsaturated CrC hydrocarbon chain 40, preferably in Ci4-C20, said chain being optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, (hetero)cycle(s), and their combinations, in particular -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O- or -(hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle-, preferably interrupted by -O- or -S-, more preferably being uninterrupted.
[0314] According to a preferred embodiment, m is equal to m'.
[0315] Polyols (H)pZ(OH)m can be cyclic or acyclic.
[0316] Examples of cyclic (H)pZ(OH)m polyols include maltose, lactose, raffinose, sucrose, trehalose, melibiulose, melibiose, mannobiose, kojibiose, nigerose, isomaltose, rutinose, rutinulose, xylobiose or sorbitan.
[0317] Examples of acyclic (H)pZ(OH)m polyols include ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, butanediol, glycerol, pentaerythritol, dipentaerythritol, trimethylolethan, mannitol, or trimethylolpropane.
[0318] According to a preferred embodiment, the polyol (H)pZ(OH)m is chosen from glycerol, mannitol, sucrose, ethylene glycol, sorbitan, or trimethylolpropane, more preferably the polyol (H)pZ(OH)m designates glycerol.
[0319] The R'CO-AK'2 compounds are preferably unsaturated fatty acids of 15 to 36 carbon atoms, preferably of 15 to 24 carbon atoms. They may be monounsaturated or polyunsaturated.
[0320] Monounsaturated fatty acids are in particular selected from palmitoleic acid, oleic acid, 9-eicosenoic acid, 11-eicosenoic acid, erucic acid and nervonic acid.
[0321] Polyunsaturated fatty acids are selected in particular from linoleic acid, α-linolenic acid, γ-linolenic acid, dihomo-γ-linolenic acid, α-linolenic acid chidonic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid, ruminic acid, monounsaturated hydroxy fatty acids especially selected from 10-Hydroxy-cis-12-octadecenoic acid, 10-Hydroxy-trans-1-octadecenoic acid, 12-Hydroxy-cis-9-octadecenoic acid, 13-Hydroxy-cis-9-octadecenoic acid, ricinoleic acid, isoricinoleic acid, and polyunsaturated hydroxy fatty acids especially selected from densipolic acid, auricolic acid, dimorphecolic acid.
[0322] More preferably, the unsaturated fatty acid is chosen from ricinoleic acid, oleic acid, palmitoleic acid, erucic acid and mixtures thereof. Second stage
[0323] In a second step, all or part of the unsaturation(s) of the AK'2 radical(s) are transformed a) via an epoxidation reaction into epoxide to lead to derivatives (III), such as the starting compound al illustrated in the scheme described below, or b) via a thiol-ene reaction with a (poly)hydroxylated thiol or a thiol bearing acid function(s) to lead to derivatives (IV), such as, for example, compound b3 illustrated in the scheme described after.
[0324] The thiol-ene reaction b) can be carried out from (poly)hydroxylated thiols such as linear hydroxylated thiols of formula HS-(CH2)k-OH with k being an integer from 1 to 12, preferably from 1 to 6, such as 2-mercaptoethanol, 3-mercapto-l-propanol, 6-mercapto-l-hexanol, 4-mercapto-l-butanol, or such as branched hydroxylated thiols preferably having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as 3-mercapto-3-methylbutanol, 3-mercapto-2-butanol, or such as polyhydroxylated thiols, preferably having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms such as 3-mercapto-l,2 propanediol HS-CH(OH)-CH2OH.
[0325] The compounds (IV) obtained are thus substituted by a radical -S-AK3-(OH)V with v equal to 1 if the thiol is hydroxylated and v greater than 1, such as 2, if the thiol is polyhydroxylated, AK3 and v being such as defined previously for the compounds of formula (I). Third stage
[0326] In a third step, all or part of the epoxide groups of the compounds of formula (III) are opened by nucleophilic compounds, in particular i) preferably Ci-C4 alcohols such as methanol or ethanol, or a polyol, to give rise to compounds (III), such as compound b2 illustrated in the diagram below, ii) preferably Ci-C6 carboxylic acids, such as lactic acid, pyruvic acid, benzoic acid, glycolic acid or 2,2-bishydroxymethylpropionic acid, more preferably carboxylic acids substituted with at least one hydroxyl radical such as lactic acid, to give rise to compounds (III), such as the compound bl illustrated in the diagram below.
[0327] According to a preferred embodiment, the carboxylic acid ii) is chosen from lactic acid, glycolic acid or 2,2 bis hydroxymethyl propionic acid (epoxy-acid reaction) and the reaction is carried out in the presence of a catalyst such as imidazole, 1-Methylimidazole, N,N dimethylbenzylamine or caffeine.
[0328] According to a preferred embodiment, the alcohol i) is selected from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, butandiol, glycerol, pentaerythritol, dipentaerythritol, trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, more preferably butylene glycol or trimethylolethane. Fourth step
[0329] In a fourth step, all or part of the alcohol -OH functions of the compounds (Illi) or (Illii) and all or part of the alcohol functions possibly still present from the polyols (H)pZ(OH)m- used in the first step are transformed into -OC(O)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(O)-R4 radicals, for example via a (trans)esterification reaction with a Gp-C(O)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(O)-R4 ester, in which Gp preferably designates a hydroxy radical or a (Ci-C4)alkoxy radical, such as methoxy, ethoxy, isobutoxy or t-butoxy.
[0330] According to a preferred embodiment, Gp-C(0)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(0)-R4 designates an ester selected from ethyl acetoacetate, ethyl 2-methylacetoacetate, ter-butyl acetoacetate, preferably ter-butyl acetoacetate.
[0331] Structural compounds (la), (le), such as structural compounds (lie), structural compounds (Id) and (le) can be obtained according to this process.
[0332] By way of example, step 4 can be implemented according to the protocol described in Trevino, AS, & Trumbo, DL (2002). Acetoacetylated castor oil in coatings applications. Progress in Organic Coatings, 44(1), 49-54:
[0334]
[0335] In some cases, the compounds (H)pZ(OH)m' m (YAK'2) produced in the first step are commercially available, particularly certain compounds where m' equals m, p equals 0, and Z preferably denotes -CH2-CH-CH2-. When p equals 0 and m' equals m, the compounds are esters of unsaturated fatty acids, possibly hydroxylated, particularly triglycerides of castor oil, soybean oil, canola oil, or linseed oil. The synthesis of compounds (la) to (le) then begins from the second step described above. For example, starting from an unsaturated triglyceride, a thiol-ene reaction is carried out with a (poly)hydroxy thiol such as SH-(CH2)X OH, where x is preferably an integer from 1 to 4, followed by a transesterification reaction (as described in Desroches, M., Caillol, S., Lapinte, V., Auvergne, R., & Boutevin, B. (2011). Synthesis of biobased polyols by thiol-ene coupling from vegetable oils. Macro-molecules, 44(8), 2489-2500): Compound
[0338]
[0339] For example, starting with an unsaturated triglyceride, a total or partial epoxidation reaction is carried out, followed by the opening of the epoxide(s) formed, which generates alcohol functionalities and (trans)esterification. Alternatively, a commercial epoxidized triglyceride can be used as a raw material, such as the products offered by Arkema under the references Vikoflex 7170 or Vikoflex 7190. As an example, the reaction scheme below can be implemented in which all the epoxides are opened by lactic acid and then each hydroxyl group is esterified by t-Bu-OCOCH2CH3, according to the scheme below: Compound al Compound hl
[0341] [Chem.56] Compound bi Compound c J
[0342] By way of example, the reaction scheme below can also be implemented in which all the epoxides are opened by an alcohol, methanol in the example, then each hydroxy is esterified by t-Bu-OCOCH2CH3:
[0343] [Chem.57] Compound a2 Compound b2 b) Compound b2 Compound c2
[0345] The compounds of formula (la) to (le) can further be prepared by the following series of reactions:
[0346] - In a first step, a commercial polyacid is reacted preferably natural (H)pZ(COOH)m' with m equivalents of fatty alcohol HO-AK'2 with m' greater than or equal to m, and m being as defined above, under conditions known to a person skilled in the art to form an ester Y bond according to the scheme below:
[0347] (H)pZ(COOH)m +mHO-AK'2 -> (H)pZ(COOH)m _m(YAK'2)m
[0348] in which Y denotes -C(O)-O-, and AK'2 represents a linear or branched, unsaturated monovalent hydrocarbon chain, in Ci-C40, preferably in Ci4-C2o, said chain being optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, (hetero)cycle(s), and their combinations, in particular -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O-, -(hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle-, preferably interrupted by -O- or -S-, and more preferably uninterrupted.
[0349] According to a preferred embodiment, m is equal to m'.
[0350] Polyacids (H)pZ(OH)m can be cyclic or acyclic.
[0351] Polyacids may preferably designate dicarboxylic acids possibly hydroxylated, tricarboxylic acids possibly hydroxylated, tetraboxylic acids possibly hydroxylated.
[0352] Non-hydroxylated dicarboxylic acids are selected in particular from maleic acid, propanedioic acid, butanedioic acid, pentanedioic acid, hexanedioic acid, decanedioic acid, dodecanedioic acid, cyclopropanedicarboxylic acid, cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, cyclobutanedicarboxylic acid, naphthalene-1,4-dicarboxylic acid, naphthalene-2,3-dicarboxylic acid, naphthalene-2,6-dicarboxylic acid, suberic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, phthalic acid, terephthalic acid, isophthalic acid, tetrahydrophthalic acid, hexahydrophthalic acid, pimelic acid, sebacic acid, azelaic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, fumaric acid, itaconic acid, and preferably propanedioic acid, butanedioic acid and pentanedioic acid.
[0353] Hydroxylated dicarboxylic acids are in particular selected from tartaric acid, malic acid, aleuritic acid, 7,18-dihydroxy-tetracos-15-enoic acid, avenic acid B, and preferably malic acid and tartaric acid.
[0354] The (hydroxy) tricarboxylic acids are in particular selected from 2-oxaloglutaric acid, oxalosuccinic acid, 3-carboxymethyl muconic acid, 2-methyl citric acid, citric acid, isocitric acid, aconitic acid, transaconitic acid, 1,2,3-propanetricarboxylic acid, 1,2,5-pentanetricarboxylic acid, 1,3,5-benzenetricarboxylic acid, 1,3,5-cyclohexanetricarboxylic acid, 3-butene-1,2,3-tricarboxylic acid, 3-butene-1,1,3-tricarboxylic acid, trimellitic acid, 1,2,3-benzenetricarboxylic acid, 1,3,5-benzenetricarboxylic acid, agaric acid, preferably citric acid and acotinic acid.
[0355] Tetracarboxylic acids are in particular selected from 1,2,3,4-butane-tetracarboxylic acid, pyromellitic acid, oxydisuccinic acid, thiodi-succinic acid, N[l,2-dicarboxyethyl]-L-aspartic acid, ethylenediamine tetraacetic acid, ethylenediamine tetrapropionic acid and N,N'-ethylene di-(L-aspartic acid).
[0356] According to a preferred embodiment, the fatty alcohols HO-AK'2 are selected from fatty alcohols comprising 15 to 36 carbon atoms, preferably 15 to 24 carbon atoms.
[0357] Fatty alcohols HO-AK'2 can be mono or polyunsaturated (presence of one or more ethylenic double bonds).
[0358] HO-AK'2 fatty alcohols can contain several alcohol functions.
[0359] Monounsaturated fatty alcohols are particularly chosen, oleyl alcohol, the Docosenol, unsaturated fatty alcohol ethers, such as polyoxyethylene monooleyl ether, preferably oleyl alcohol. Monounsaturated fatty alcohols containing multiple alcohol groups are particularly selected from 9-Octadecene-1,12-diol.
[0360] Polyunsaturated fatty alcohols are in particular selected from linoleic alcohol, 2,4-Dodecadien-l-ol, dolichols (with n being greater than or equal to 3, and less than or equal to 5).
[0361] According to a preferred embodiment, fatty alcohol HO-AK'2 is selected from oleyl alcohol, linoleic alcohol (Linoleyl alcohol) or mixtures thereof.
[0362] The following steps are identical to those described previously:
[0363] - In a second step, all or part of the unsaturation(s) of the radical(s) AK'2 are transformed a) via an epoxidation reaction to epoxide to lead to derivatives (III'), such as compound a4 illustrated in the diagram below, or b) via a thiol-ene reaction with a (poly)hydroxylated thiol or a thiol bearing acid function(s) to lead to derivatives (IV'), such as compound b5 illustrated in the diagram below.
[0364] - In a third step, all or part of the epoxide groups of the compounds of formula (III') are opened by nucleophilic compounds, such as i) alcohols preferably in C1-C4 such as methanol or ethanol or a polyol to lead to compounds (III'i), such as compound b4 illustrated in the diagram below, ii) carboxylic acids preferably in Ci-C6 such as lactic acid, pyruvic acid, benzoic acid, more preferably carboxylic acids substituted by at least one hydroxyl radical such as lactic acid, to lead to compounds (III'ii), such as compound b6 illustrated in the diagram below.
[0365] - In a fourth step, all or part of the alcohol -OH functions of the compounds (Ill'i) or (Ill'ii) and all or part of the alcohol functions possibly still present and derived from the polyols (H)pZ(OH)m' implemented in the first step are transformed into -OC(O)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(O)-R4 radicals, for example via a transesterification reaction with a Gp-C(O)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(O)-R4 ester in which Gp preferably designates a hindered alkoxy radical such as tBu-O- to lead to the corresponding formula (I) compounds.
[0366] Compounds of formula (la) to (le) such that p equals 1, Y denotes -C(O)-O- and m equals 1 can also be prepared by combining steps 2, 3 and 4 described above, from an unsaturated fatty acid such as oleic acid as described in "The synthesis of Bio-based Michael donors from tall oil fatty acids for polymer development", Polymers, 2022,14, 4107.
[0367] By way of example, the reaction scheme below can be implemented in which all the epoxides are opened by methanol and then each hydroxyl group is esterified by t-Bu-OCOCH2CH3:
[0368] [Chem.59] Compound b4 A4 format Compound b4 Compound e4
[0369] By way of example, the reaction scheme below can be implemented in which an unsaturated oil reacts with a (poly)hydroxy thiol such as SH-(CH2)X OH, with x being an integer preferably from 1 to 4, followed by a transesterification reaction (as described in Desroches, M., Caillol, S., Lapinte, V., Auvergne, R., & Boutevin, B. (2011). Synthesis of biobased polyols by thiol-ene coupling from vegetable oils. Macromolecules, 44(8), 2489-2500):
[0370] [Chem.60] Compound b5 Compound c5
[0371] By way of example, the reaction scheme below can be implemented in in which all the epoxides are opened by lactic acid and then each hydroxyl group is esterified by t-Bu-OCOCH2CH3:
[0372] [Chem.61] Compound s6 Compound b6 Compound b6 Compound cb Fatty acid
[0373] The composition according to the invention comprises ii) one or more fatty acids.
[0374] The term "fatty acid" means a compound comprising at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, the chain being substituted by one or more carboxyl groups and optionally by one or more hydroxyl groups. These fatty acids are neither oxyalkylated nor glycerolized.
[0375] Preferably, the fatty acid or fatty acids according to the invention is or are chosen from compounds of structure R20-C(O)OH in which R20 represents a hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 5 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 9 to 24 carbon atoms, better from 11 to 19 carbon atoms, said R20 group being optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy radicals.
[0376] When R20 is an unsaturated hydrocarbon group, the unsaturation(s) are preferably ethylenic unsaturations; when several unsaturations are present, these may be conjugated or not.
[0377] The fatty acids usable in the present invention are in particular selected from myristic acid, cetyl acid (or palmitic acid), stearylic acid, arachidic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, acid 12-hydroxystearic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, arachidonic acid, isostearic acid, isopalmitic acid and mixtures thereof.
[0378] In a particularly preferred manner, the fatty acid or acids is or are selected from lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid (also called cetyl acid), stearic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, arachidonic acid, isostearic acid, isopalmitic acid, and mixtures thereof.
[0379] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one fatty acid of structure R20-C(O)OH in which R20 represents a linear or branched, unsaturated hydrocarbon group comprising 11 to 19 carbon atoms, said R20 group being optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy radicals, preferably unsubstituted.
[0380] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least oleic acid.
[0381] The fatty acid(s) ii) is or are present in the fat phase in a content ranging from 0.01 to 95% by weight, preferably in a content ranging from 15 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the fat phase.
[0382] The fatty acid(s) ii) is or are present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10%, preferably from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Fatty body different from fatty acid(s) ii)
[0383] As stated previously, the oily phase may contain v) at least one fat, preferably at least one oil different from the fatty acids ii).
[0384] The oily phase may also contain one or more oils chosen from among alkanes, triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, fatty alcohols, fatty esters other than triglyceride oils, fatty ethers, and mixtures thereof.
[0385] For the purposes of the present invention, "oil" means a liquid compound at a temperature of 25 °C and atmospheric pressure (1.013105 Pa), immiscible with water.
[0386] By "immiscible" is meant that the mixture of the same quantity of water and oil, after stirring, does not lead to a stable solution comprising only one phase, under the aforementioned temperature and pressure conditions. The observation is made with the naked eye or, if necessary, with a phase-contrast microscope, on 100 g of the mixture obtained after sufficient Rayneri shaking to create a vortex within the mixture (for example, 200 to 1000 rpm); the resulting mixture being left to stand in a closed bottle for 24 hours at room temperature before observation.
[0387] It is recalled that fatty alcohols, fatty esters and fatty ethers more particularly have at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 40, better from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, possibly substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or non-conjugated.
[0388] The alkanes may be selected from: * hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular: - branched alkanes in Ci0-Ci6 such as iso-alkanes (also called isoparaffins) such as Ci3-Ci6 Isoparaffin, isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls, alone or in mixtures, preferably isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), for example marketed by INEOS, more preferably isododecane; - linear alkanes for example in Ci0-Ci6, alone or in mixtures, for example such as hexane, decane, undecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as, or n-dodecane (Ci2) and n-tetradecane (CM) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, the undecane-tridecane mixture, the mixtures of n-undecane (Cn) and n-tridecane (Ci3) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of application WO 2008 / 155059 of the Cognis Company, and their mixtures as well as the mixtures of n-undecane (Cn) and n-tridecane (Ci3) Cetiol Ultimate® of the BASF company; - cyclic, non-aromatic, volatile C5-Ci2 alkanes; *Hydrocarbon oils, particularly those selected from linear or branched compounds of mineral or synthetic origin, such as: i) paraffin oil, ii) squalane, such as NEOSSANCE SQUALANE marketed by AMYRIS, isoeicosane, iii) mixtures of linear, saturated hydrocarbons, particularly in C4-C30, and more particularly in C5-C28, such as mixtures with INCI names such as: C15-C19 alkane, C8-C2i alkane, C2rC28 alkane, such as Gemseal 40, Gemseal 60, Gemseal 120 marketed by Total, Emogreen L19 marketed by SEPPIC, Emogreen L15 marketed by SEPPIC, Emogreen HP40 marketed by SEPPIC, iv) polybutenes, hydrogenated or not, such as for example products from the Indopol range marketed by the company INEOS Oligomers, the products with the INCI name HYDROGENATED POLYISOBUTENE;(v) polyisobutenes, hydrogenated or not, preferably hydrogenated, such as, for example, the non-volatile compounds of the Parléam® range marketed by NIPPON OIL FATS, (vi) polydecenes, hydrogenated or not, such as, for example, non-volatile compounds of the PURESYN® range marketed by ExxonMobil, (vii) decene / butene copolymers, butene / isobutene copolymers and (viii) mixtures thereof.
[0389] Triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin are preferably triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and glycerol that are liquid at room temperature, in particular whose fatty acids may have chain lengths ranging from C7 to C22. These oils may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.Examples include heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, caprylic / capric / succinic acid triglycerides; vegetable oils such as wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, cumin, corn, apricot kernel, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soybean, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cottonseed, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pomegranate, pumpkin, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, candlenut, passionflower, rosehip, peanut, coconut, argan, passionflower, kaya; the liquid fraction of shea butter, and the liquid fraction of cocoa butter; as well as mixtures thereof.
[0390] Fatty alcohols are in particular saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and comprise from 10 to 26 carbon atoms. They are preferably mono-alcohols. Advantageously, alcohols of the form C10-C26 are fatty alcohols, preferably branched or unsaturated when they comprise at least 14 carbon atoms. Preferably, the fatty alcohol comprises from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, in particular, lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, and mixtures thereof.
[0391] Fatty esters other than the triglyceride oils mentioned above have a total number of carbon atoms greater than or equal to 8, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10. They may be selected from: (i) linear aliphatic esters of formula RC(O)-OR' in which RC(O)-O- represents the carboxylic acid remainder comprising from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, aliphatic hydrocarbon esters of alkylene glycol, in particular ethylene glycol or propylene glycol; the total number of carbon atoms advantageously being at least 10.Examples of such esters include isoamyl laurate, cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, isostearyl heptanoate, cetyl octanoate, coco caprylate caprate, tridecyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, hexyl laurate, and neopentanoic acid esters such as isodecyl neopentanate, isotridecyl neopentanate, and isostearyl neopentanate. 2-Octyldocecyl neopentanoate, isononanoic acid esters. such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate; isocetyl stearate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl behenate, myristyle myristate; (ii) fatty acid esters of alcohols or polyols such as poly-glycerol-2 triisostearate; glyceryl triisostearate; glyceryl tridecyl-2 tetradecanoate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; polyethylene glycol diheptanoate; propylene glycol diethyl 2-hexanoate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetradecanoate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; iii) aromatic esters such as tridecyl trimellitate, benzoate of Ci2-C15 alcohols, 2-phenyl ethyl ester of benzoic acid, butyl octyl salicylate; (iv) fatty esters of alpha hydroxy acids, polyacids or amino acids such as triisoarachidyl citrate, lauroyl isopropyl sarcosinate, dii-sopropyl sebacate; (v) polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and diol such as those with INCI name dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer, dilinoleic acid / propanediol copolymer; polyesters obtained by condensation of fatty acid dimer and diol dimer such as dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate; (vi) Carbonates of the formula Ri-OC(O)-O-R2, where Ri and R2 are identical or different, represent a linear or branched alkyl chain from C4 to C1, and preferably from C6 to C1; the total number of carbon atoms in the carbonate being advantageously at least 10. Carbonate oils may be dicaprylyl carbonate (or dioctyl carbonate), marketed under the name Cetiol CC® by BASF, di(ethyl-2-hexyl) carbonate, marketed under the name TEGOSOFT DEC® by Evonik, dipropylheptyl carbonate (Cetiol 4 Ail from BASF), dibutyl carbonate; di-neopentyl carbonate; dipentyl carbonate; dineoheptyl carbonate; di-heptyl carbonate; di-isononyl carbonate; or di-nonyl carbonate; and preferably dioctyl carbonate; vii) and their mixtures.
[0392] Liquid fatty ethers include oils of formula R3-O-R4 in which R3 and R4 independently denote a linear, branched, or cyclic C6-C24 alkyl group, preferably a C6-Ci8 alkyl group, and preferably a C8-Ci2 alkyl group. It may be preferable for R3 and R4 to be identical. Examples of linear alkyl groups include a hexyl group, a heptyl group, an octyl group, a nonyl group, a decyl group, an undodyl group, a dodecyl group, a tridecyl group, a tetradecyl group, a pentadecyl group, a hexadecyl group, a heptadecyl group, an octadecyl group, a no-nadecyl group, an eicosyl group, a behenyl group, a docosyl group, a group tricosyl and a tetracosyl group. Examples of branched alkyl groups include 1,1-dimethylpropyl, 3-methylhexyl, 5-methylhexyl, ethylhexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, 5-methyloctyl, 1-ethylhexyl, 1-butylpentyl, 2-butyloctyl, isotridecyl, 2-pentylnonyl, 2-hexyldecyl, isostearyl, 2-heptylundecyl, 2-octyldodecyl, 1,3-dimethylbutyl, 1-(l-methylethyl)-2-methylpropyl, 1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl, 3,5,5-trimethylhexyl, 1-(2-methylpropyl)-3-methylbutyl, and a group 3,7-dimethyloctyl, and a 2-(1,3,3-trimethylbutyl)-5,7,7-trimethyloctyl group. Examples of cyclic alkyl groups include a cyclohexyl group, a 3-methylcyclohexyl group, and a 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl group.
[0393] Examples of liquid fatty ethers include caprylyl ether, dilau-rylether, diisostearylether, dioctylether, nonylphenyl ether, dodecyl dimethyl-butyl ether, cetyl dimethylbutyl ether, cetyl isobutyl ether and mixtures thereof, better caprylyl ether, such as CETIOL OE, marketed by BASF.
[0394] The fatty substance(s) of the fatty phase are preferably chosen from triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, fatty alcohols, fatty esters other than triglyceride oils, and mixtures thereof.
[0395] A3. Colouring agent
[0396] As indicated above, the composition according to the invention optionally comprises iv) at least one coloring agent.
[0397] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises iv) at least one coloring agent.
[0398] The colouring agent(s) iv) is or are selected from the pigments. Pigment
[0399] The term "pigment" means all pigments that impart color to keratinous materials. Their solubility in water at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) is less than 0.05% by weight, and preferably less than 0.01% by weight.
[0400] The pigments that can be used are in particular chosen from among the organic and / or mineral pigments known in the art, in particular those described in Kirk-Othmer's Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology and in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry.
[0401] They may be natural, of natural origin, or not.
[0402] These pigments may be in the form of a powder or pigment paste. They may be coated or uncoated.
[0403] Pigments can, for example, be chosen from mineral pigments, organic pigments, lacquers, special effect pigments such as mother-of-pearl or Glitter, and their mixtures.
[0404] The pigment may be a mineral pigment. By mineral pigment is meant any pigment that meets the definition in the Ullmann Encyclopedia in the chapter on inorganic pigments. Examples of mineral pigments useful in the present invention include iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue, and titanium dioxide.
[0405] The pigment may be an organic pigment. By "organic pigment" is meant any pigment that meets the definition in the Ullmann encyclopedia in the chapter on organic pigment.
[0406] The organic pigment may in particular be selected from the compounds nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline, quinoline, anthraquinone, triphenylmethane, fluorane, phthalocyanine, of the metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, qui-nacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, indigo, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone.
[0407] In particular, white or colored organic pigments may be selected from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, the blue pigments coded in the Color Index under references Cl 42090, 69800, 69825, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments coded in the Color Index under references Cl 11680, 11710, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the green pigments coded in the Color Index under references Cl 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments coded in the Color Index under reference CI 11725, 45370, 71105, the red pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole, phenolic derivatives as described in patent FR 2 679 771.
[0408] By way of example, one can also cite organic pigment pastes such as the products sold by the company HOECHST under the name: - COSMENYL YELLOW IOG: Pigment YELLOW 3 (Cl 11710); - COSMENYL YELLOW G: Pigment YELLOW 1 (Cl 11680); - ORANGE COSMENYL GR: Pigment ORANGE 43 (Cl 71105); - COSMENYL RED R: Pigment RED 4 (Cl 12085); - CARMIN COSMENYL FB: Pigment RED 5 (Cl 12490); - VIOLET COSMENYL RL: Pigment VIOLET 23 (Cl 51319); - COSMENYL BLUE A2R: Pigment BLUE 15.1 (Cl 74160); - VERT COSMENYL GG: Pigment GREEN 7 (Cl 74260); - COSMENYL BLACK R: Pigment BLACK 7 (Cl 77266).
[0409] The pigments according to the invention may also be in the form of pigments composites as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments may be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core, at least one binder ensuring the fixation of organic pigments on the core, and at least one organic pigment covering at least partially the core.
[0410] The organic pigment can also be a lake. By lake, we mean colorants adsorbed onto insoluble particles, the whole thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.
[0411] The inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminium borosilicate, and aluminium.
[0412] Among the colorants, we can mention carminic acid. We can also mention the colorants known under the following names: D & C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D & C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D & C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D & C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D & C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D & C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D & C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D & C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D & C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D & C Green (CI 61 570), D & C Yellow 1 O (CI 77 002), D & C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D & C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).
[0413] As examples of lacquers, we can cite the product known under the following name: D & C Red 7 (CI 15 850 :1).
[0414] The pigment can also be a special effects pigment. Special effects pigments are those that generally create a non-uniform and changing colored appearance (characterized by a certain shade, vibrancy, and clarity) depending on the viewing conditions (light, temperature, viewing angles, etc.). They are thus distinguished from colored pigments that provide a uniform opaque, semi-transparent, or conventionally transparent tint.
[0415] There are several types of special effect pigments, those with a low refractive index such as fluorescent or photochromic pigments, and those with a higher refractive index such as mother-of-pearl, interference pigments or glitter.
[0416] Examples of special effect pigments include pearlescent pigments such as titanium-coated mica or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium-coated mica with iron oxides, iron oxide-coated mica, titanium-coated mica, particularly with ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium-coated mica with an organic pigment as defined above, and bismuth oxychloride-based pearlescent pigments. Examples of pearlescent pigments include Cellini pearlescent pigments marketed by BASF (Mica-TiO2-lake), Prestige pearlescent pigments marketed by Eckart (Mica-TiO2), Prestige Bronze pearlescent pigments marketed by Eckart (Mica-Fe2O3), and Colorona pearlescent pigments marketed by Merck (Mica-TiO2-Fe2O3).
[0417] We can also mention gold-colored mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by BASF under the names Brilliant Gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle Gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch Gold 233X (Cloisonne); bronze mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by MERCK under the names Bronze Fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by BASF under the name Super Bronze (Cloisonne); orange mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by BASF under the names Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by MERCK under the names Passion Orange (Colorona) and Matte Orange (17449) (Microna); brown-tinted mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by BASF under the names Nu-antique Copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); copper-tinted mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by BASF under the name Copper 340A (Timica);red-tinted mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by MERCK under the name Sienna Fine (17386) (Colorona); yellow-tinted mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by BASF under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); red-tinted mother-of-pearl with a gold tint, notably marketed by BASF under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); pink mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by BASF under the name Tan opale G005 (Gemtone);black mother-of-pearl with a gold sheen, notably marketed by BASF under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), blue mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by MERCK under the name Matte Blue (17433) (Microna), white mother-of-pearl with a silver sheen, notably marketed by MERCK under the name Xirona Silver, and orange-pink-green-gold mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by MERCK under the name Indian Summer (Xirona), and their mixtures.
[0418] As further examples of nacres, we can also mention particles comprising a borosilicate substrate coated with titanium oxide.
[0419] Particles with a glass substrate coated with titanium oxide are notably sold under the name METASHINE MC1080RY by the company TOYAL.
[0420] Finally, examples of mother-of-pearl include polyethylene terephthalate flakes, particularly those marketed by Meadowbrook Inventions under the name Silver IP 0.004X0.004 (silver flakes). Multilayer pigments based on synthetic substrates such as alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum can also be considered.
[0421] Special effect pigments can also be chosen from reflective particles, that is to say, in particular, particles whose size, structure, in particular the thickness of the layer or layers which constitute it and their physical nature Their chemical composition and surface condition allow them to reflect incident light. This reflection can, where appropriate, have sufficient intensity to create visible highlights on the surface of the composition or mixture when applied to the makeup base; these are brighter spots that contrast with their surroundings, appearing to shine.
[0422] Reflective particles can be selected so as not to significantly alter the coloring effect generated by the coloring agents associated with them, and more particularly so as to optimize this effect in terms of color rendering. They may, in particular, have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or copper color or reflection.
[0423] These particles can have various shapes, including being platelet-shaped or globular, particularly spherical.
[0424] Reflective particles, whatever their shape, may or may not have a multilayer structure and, in the case of a multilayer structure, for example at least one layer of uniform thickness, in particular of a reflective material.
[0425] When reflective particles do not have a multilayer structure, they can be composed, for example, of metal oxides, in particular titanium or iron oxides obtained by synthesis.
[0426] When reflective particles have a multilayer structure, they may, for example, comprise a natural or synthetic substrate, in particular a synthetic substrate at least partially coated by at least one layer of a reflective material, in particular at least one metal or metallic material. The substrate may be monomaterial, multimaterial, organic and / or inorganic.
[0427] More specifically, it may be selected from glasses, ceramics, graphite, metal oxides, aluminas, silicas, silicates, in particular aluminosilicates and borosilicates, synthetic mica and mixtures thereof, this list not being exhaustive.
[0428] The reflective material may include a layer of metal or a metallic material.
[0429] Reflective particles are described in particular in documents JP-A-09188830, JP-A-10158450, JP-A-10158541, JP-A-07258460 and JP-A-05017710.
[0430] As further examples of reflective particles comprising a mineral substrate coated with a layer of metal, one can also mention particles comprising a borosilicate substrate coated with silver.
[0431] Silver-coated glass substrate particles in the form of wafers are sold under the name MICROGLASS METASHINE REFSX 2025 PS by the company TOYAL. Nickel / chromium / molybdenum alloy-coated glass substrate particles are sold under the name CRYSTAL STAR GF 550, GF 2525 by the same company.
[0432] Particles comprising a metallic substrate such as silver, aluminium, iron, chromium, nickel, molybdenum, gold, copper, zinc, tin, magnesium, steel, bronze, titanium may also be used, said substrate being coated with at least one layer of at least one metallic oxide such as titanium oxide, aluminium oxide, iron oxide, cerium oxide, chromium oxide, silicon oxides and mixtures thereof.
[0433] An example can be cited as aluminium, bronze or copper powders coated with SiO2 marketed under the name VISIONAIRE by the company ECKART.
[0434] Other examples include non-substrate interference pigments such as liquid crystals (Wacker's Helicones HC) and interference holographic glitter (Spectratek's Geometry Pigments or Spectra f / x). Special effect pigments also include fluorescent pigments, whether daylight fluorescent or ultraviolet fluorescent, phosphorescent pigments, photochromic pigments, thermochromic pigments, and quantum dots, marketed, for example, by Quantum Dots Corporation.
[0435] The variety of pigments that can be used in the present invention makes it possible to obtain a rich palette of colors, as well as particular optical effects such as metallic, interference effects.
[0436] The size of the pigment used in the composition according to the present invention is generally between 10 nm and 200 µm, preferably between 20 nm and 80 µm, and more preferably between 30 nm and 50 µm.
[0437] The pigments can be dispersed within the composition by means of a dispersing agent.
[0438] The dispersing agent serves to protect the dispersed particles from agglomeration or flocculation. This dispersing agent may be a surfactant, an oligomer, a polymer, or a mixture of several of these, possessing one or more functionalities with a strong affinity for the surface of the particles to be dispersed. In particular, they may adhere physically or chemically to the surface of the pigments. These dispersants also have at least one functional group that is compatible with or soluble in the continuous medium.In particular, esters of 12-hydroxystearic acid are used, especially C8 to C20 fatty acids and polyols such as glycerol, diglycerin, such as poly(12-hydroxystearic acid) stearate with a molecular weight of approximately 750g / mol such as that sold under the name Solsperse 21 000 by Avecia, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (name CTFA) sold under the reference Dehymyls PGPH by Henkel or polyhydroxystearic acid such as that sold under the reference Arlacel P100 by Uniqema and their mixtures.
[0439] As another dispersant that can be used in the compositions of the invention, we can mention quaternary ammonium derivatives of polycondensed fatty acids such as Solsperse 17 000 sold by Avecia, poly dimethylsiloxane / oxypropylene mixtures such as those sold by Dow Corning under the references DC2-5185, DC2-5225 C.
[0440] The pigments used in the composition can be surface treated with an organic agent.
[0441] Thus the pigments previously treated on the surface useful within the framework of the invention are pigments which have undergone totally or partially a surface treatment of a chemical, electronic, electro-chemical, mechano-chemical or mechanical nature, with an organic agent such as those described in particular in Cosmetics and Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, p. 53-64 before being dispersed in the composition according to the invention.These organic agents may be chosen, for example, from waxes, such as carnauba wax and beeswax; fatty acids, fatty alcohols and their derivatives, such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid, stearyl alcohol, hydroxystearyl alcohol, lauric acid and their derivatives; anionic surfactants; lecithins; sodium, potassium, magnesium, iron, titanium, zinc or aluminum salts of fatty acids, such as aluminum stearate or laurate; metal alkoxides; polyethylene; (meth)acrylic polymers, such as polymethyl methacrylates; polymers and copolymers containing acrylate units; alkanoamines; silicone compounds, such as silicones, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes; fluorinated organic compounds, such as perfluoroalkyl ethers; Fluoro-silicon compounds.
[0442] The surface-treated pigments useful in the composition may also have been treated by a mixture of these compounds and / or have undergone several surface treatments.
[0443] The surface-treated pigments useful in the context of the present invention can be prepared using surface treatment techniques well known to those skilled in the art or found as such in the commercial market.
[0444] Preferably, the surface-treated pigments are covered by an organic layer.
[0445] The organic agent with which the pigments are treated can be deposited on the pigments by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction between the molecules of the surfactant or creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the pigments.
[0446] Surface treatment can thus be carried out, for example, by a chemical reaction of a surfactant with the surface of the pigments and the creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the pigments or fillers. This method is notably described in US patent 4,578,266.
[0447] Preferably, an organic agent covalently linked to the pigments will be used.
[0448] The surface treatment agent can represent from 0.1 to 50% by weight of the total weight of the pigment treated on the surface, preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, and even more preferably from 1 to 20% by weight of the total weight of the pigment treated on the surface.
[0449] Preferably, the surface treatments of the pigments are chosen from the following treatments:
[0450] - a PEG-Silicone treatment such as the AQ surface treatment marketed by LCW;
[0451] - a Methicone treatment such as the SI surface treatment marketed by LCW;
[0452] - a Dimethicone treatment such as the Covasil 3.05 com surface treatment marketed by LCW;
[0453] - a Dimethicone / Trimethylsiloxysilicate treatment as the surface treatment Covasil 4.05 marketed by LCW;
[0454] - a Magnesium Myristate treatment such as the MM com surface treatment marketed by LCW;
[0455] - an Aluminium Dimyristate treatment such as the MI com surface treatment marketed by Miyoshi;
[0456] - a Perfluoropolymethylisopropyl ether treatment as a surface treatment FHC marketed by LCW;
[0457] - an Isostearyl Sebacate treatment such as the commercially available HS surface treatment by Miyoshi;
[0458] - a Perfluoroalkyl Phosphate treatment as a PF surface treatment marketed by Daito;
[0459] - an acrylate / dimethicone copolymer and perfluoalkyl phosphate treatment such as the FSA surface treatment marketed by Daito;
[0460] - a Polymethylhydrogen siloxane / Perfluoroalkyl Phosphate treatment such as the FS01 surface treatment marketed by Daito;
[0461] - an Acrylate / Dimethicone Copolymer treatment as the surface treatment ASC marketed by Daito;
[0462] - an Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate treatment such as the ITT surface treatment marketed by Daito;
[0463] - an Acrylate copolymer treatment such as the APD surface treatment marketed by Daito;
[0464] - a Perfluoroalkyl Phosphate / Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate treatment such as the PF + ITT surface treatment marketed by Daito.
[0465] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the dispersing agent is present with organic or inorganic pigments in submicron-sized particulate form.
[0466] By "sub-micronic" or in English "sub-micronic" is meant pigments whose particle size has been micronized by micronization method and whose average particle size is less than one micrometer (pm), in particular between 0.1 and 0.9 pm, and preferably between 0.2 and 0.6 pm.
[0467] According to one embodiment, the dispersing agent and the pigment(s) are present in quantity (dispersing agent: pigment), according to a weight ratio, between 1:4 and 4:1, particularly between 1.5:3.5 and 3.5:1 or better between 1.75:3 and 3:1.
[0468] The dispersing agent(s) may therefore have a silicone skeleton, such as silicone polyether and amino-silicone dispersants. Suitable dispersing agents include:
[0469] - amino-silicones i.e. silicones comprising one or more amino groups such than those marketed under the names and references: BYK LPX 21879, by BYK, GP-4, GP-6, GP-344, GP-851, GP-965, GP-967 and GP-988-1, marketed by Genesee Polymers,
[0470] - silicone acrylates such as Tego ® RC 902, Tego ® RC 922, Tego ® RC 1041, and Tego ® RC 1043, marketed by Evonik,
[0471] - polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) silicones with carboxylic groups such as X- 22162 and X-22370 by Shin-Etsu, silicone epoxy such as GP-29, GP-32, GP-502, GP-504, GP-514, GP-607, GP-682, and GP-695, by Genesee Polymers, or Tego ® RC 1401, Tego ® RC 1403, Tego ® RC 1412, by Evonik.
[0472] According to a particular embodiment, the dispersing agent(s) are of the amino-silicone type and are cationic.
[0473] Preferably, the pigment(s) is / are chosen from mineral, mixed mineral-organic or organic pigments.
[0474] In one embodiment of the invention, the pigment(s) are organic pigments, preferably organic pigments surface-treated with an organic agent selected from silicone compounds. In another embodiment of the invention, the pigment(s) are mineral pigments.
[0475] Preferably, the pigment(s) are chosen from iron oxides, in particular red, brown or black. Red iron oxide is an example of an iron oxide.
[0476] The pigment(s) as defined above may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0 to 20% by weight, preferably in a content ranging from 0 to 15% by weight, better in a content ranging from 0 to 10%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0477] Advantageously, the pigment(s) may be present in a total content ranging from 0.05 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, better from 0.5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0478] A4. Additions)
[0479] The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more additives. The additives are different from the compound(s) ii), iii), iv) and v) as described above.
[0480] The additive(s) possibly present in the composition according to the invention may be included in the aqueous phase or the oily phase.
[0481] The composition according to the invention may thus further comprise one or more additives chosen from the group consisting of salts; emollients; moisturizers; perfumes; peptizers; vitamins; thickeners; suspending agents; conditioning agents; preservatives; anionic, cationic, non-ionic and amphoteric polymers.
[0482] A person skilled in the art shall take care to choose any additives and their quantity so that they do not impair the cosmetic properties of the composition of the present invention.
[0483] These additives may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0484] Preferably, among the additives, glycerin may be mentioned in particular.
[0485] According to one embodiment, the aqueous phase comprises water, iii) at least chitosan, as described above, at least one acid having a pKa less than 5, as described above, and at least glycerin.
[0486] The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one (poly)amine compound other than chitosan(s) iii). (Poly)amine compounds
[0487] The (poly)amine compound other than chitosan(s) iii) may in particular be chosen from among polyamine compounds having several primary and / or secondary amine groups or from among amino alkoxysilanes, and more particularly from among amino alkoxysilane compounds, diamine compounds, triamine compounds, and mixtures thereof.
[0488] The (poly)amine compound may be a compound comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular a non-polymer compound; it may be acyclic or cyclic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, conjugated or non-conjugated, aromatic or non-aromatic, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O-, -S-, -Si(R')2-, -N(R')-, preferably -O-, -Si(R')2-, or their combinations such as -Si(R')2-O- or -O-Si(R')2-, with R', identical or different, re featuring a (Ci-C4)alkyl group such as methyl, and R” representing a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom.
[0489] By "non-polymer compound" is meant a compound that is not directly obtained by a polymerization reaction of monomers.
[0490] Examples of (poly)amine compounds include N-methyl-1,3-diaminopropane, N-propyl 1,3-diaminopropane, N-isopropyl 1,3-diaminopropane, N-cyclohexyl 1,3-diaminopropane, 2-(3-aminopropylamino)ethanol, 3-(2-aminoethyl)aminopropylamine, bis(3-aminopropyl)amine, methyl bis(3-aminopropyl)amine, N-(3-aminopropyl)-1,4-diaminobutane, N,N-dimethyldipropylene triamine, 1,2-bis(3-aminopropylamino)ethane, N,N'-bis(3-aminopropyl)-1,3-propanediamine, ethylenediamine, 1,3-propylenediamine, 1,4-butylenediamine, lysine, cystamine, xylenediamine, tris(2-aminoethyl)amine, l,3-bis(aminomethyl)cyclohexane, l,4-bis(aminomethyl)cyclohexane, diaminopropanol, 4,7,10-Trioxa-l,13-tridecanediamine, spermidine and C36-alkylenediamines (respectively Priamine™ 1071, 1073, 1074, 1075), preferably spermidine and / or 4,7,10-Trioxa-l,13-tridecanediamine.
[0491] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the (poly)amine compound(s) are monoamine, namely they contain a single primary and / or secondary amine group, preferably primary (NH2).
[0492] The (poly)amine compound(s) may be chosen from among the amino alkoxysilanes, in particular those of formula R'iSi(OR'2)z(R'3)x, in which:
[0493] - R' i is a linear or branched, saturated Ci-C6 hydrocarbon chain or unsaturated, cyclic or acyclic substituted by a group chosen from the primary amine group NH2 or secondary amine group -N(H)R with R representing an alkyl in CrC4, an aryl, a benzyl substituted by an amino group or by an aminoalkyl group in CrC4; R\ may be interrupted in its chain by a heteroatom (O, S, NH) or a carbonyl group C(O), R\ being linked to the silicon atom directly via a carbon atom,
[0494] - R'2 and R'3, whether identical or different, represent a linear (Ci-C6)alkyl group or branched,
[0495] - z denotes an integer from 1 to 3, and
[0496] - x denotes an integer from 0 to 2,
[0497] with z + x = 3.
[0498] In particular, R' i is an acyclic chain.
[0499] Preferably, R' i is a linear or branched Ci-C6 hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, substituted by an amine group -NH2 or -N(H)R, with R representing a C1-C6 alkyl, a C3-C6 cycloalkyl, or a C6 aromatic. More precisely Referentially, R\ is a linear saturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon chain substituted by an amine group NH2. Even more preferably, R' i is a linear saturated C2-C4 hydrocarbon chain substituted by an amine group NH2.
[0500] In particular, R'2 represents an alkyl group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably R'2 represents a linear alkyl group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and more preferably R'2 represents the ethyl group.
[0501] In particular, R'3 represents an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably, R'3 represents a linear alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and more preferably R'3 represents the methyl or ethyl group. Preferably, z is equal to 3.
[0502] In particular, the (poly)amine compound(s) are selected from among the amino al-coxysilanes having only one primary and / or secondary amine group, preferably primary (NH2), such as 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), 3-aminoethyltriethoxysilane (AETES), 3-aminopropylmethyldiethoxysilane, N-(2-aminoethyl 1)-3-aminopropytriethoxysilane, 3-(m-aminophenoxy)propyltrimethoxy-silane, p-aminophenyltrimethoxysilane, and N-(2-aminoethylaminomethyl)-phenethyltrimethoxysilane.
[0503] Preferably, the (poly)amine compound(s) are chosen from 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), 3-aminoethyltriethoxysilane (AETES), 3-aminopropylmethyldiethoxysilane, and N-(2-aminoethyl)-3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane, and more preferably 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), in particular that marketed by Sigma Aldrich.
[0504] The (poly)amine compound may also be selected from amino polymers other than chitosan(s) iii), in particular having a weight average molecular weight ranging from 500 g.mol1 to 1000000 g.mol*, preferably ranging from 500 g.mol1 to 500000 g.mol*, and preferably ranging from 500 g.mol1 to 100000 g.mol*.
[0505] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the (poly)amine compound(s) are monoamine and selected from polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular of formula (IV):
[0506] H2N-ALK-Si(R'2)(R'3)-O-[ Si(R'2)(R'3)-O]n- Si(R'2)(R'3)-R'4(IV) formula (IV) in which: - ALK represents a (Ci-C4)alkylene group, linear or branched, preferably linear, such as propylene, - R'2 and R'3, whether identical or different, preferably identical, represent a (Ci-C4)alkyl group such as methyl, and - R'4 represents a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, linear or branched, preferably at C4, such as n-butyl, ne represents an integer greater than or equal to 2, preferably the value of n is such that the average molecular weight by weight of polydimethylsiloxane ranges from 500 to 3000 g.mol*. As an example of polydimethylsiloxanes (IV), we can cite those sold under the names "MCR-A11" and "MCR-A12" by the company Gelest.
[0507] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the (poly)amine compound(s) are diaminized, namely they contain two primary and / or secondary amine groups, preferably primary (NH2).
[0508] More specifically, they are chosen from compounds of formulas (V) or (VI): • ALK[(O-ALK')m-NH2]2 (V)
[0509] or • H2N-ALK-Si(R')2-[O-Si(R')2]mO-Si(R)2-ALK'-NH2 (VI) formulas (V) and (VI) in which: - ALK and ALK', identical or different, represent a (Ci-C6)alkylene group, linear or branched, preferably linear, such as propylene; - R', identical or different, represents a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, such as methyl. - m represents an integer greater than or equal to 0, preferably the value of m is such that the average molecular weight by weight of the compound (V) or (VI) goes from 500 g.mol1 to 55000 g.mol *.
[0510] Examples of compounds of formula (VI) include those sold under the names "DMS-A11", "DMS-A12", "DMS-A15", "DMS-A21", "DMS-A31", "DMS-A32" and "DMS-A35" by the company Gelest.
[0511] The (poly)amine compound(s) which are diaminized are particularly the diaminized polyethers in particular of formula H2N-ALK-O-[ALK'-O]m-ALK”-NH2 with ALK, ALK' and ALK”, identical or different representing a (Ci-C6)alkylene group, linear or branched, and m representing an integer greater than or equal to 0, such as 4,7,10-trioxa-l,13-tridecanediamine or the compounds known under the reference Jeffamine of the Huntsman company, and more particularly polyethylene glycol and / or polypropylene glycol a, co-diamine (with amine function at the end of the chain) such as those sold under the names Jeffamine D-230, D-400, D-2000, D-4000, ED-600, ED-9000, ED-2003.
[0512] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the (poly)amine compound(s) are triamine, namely they contain three primary and / or secondary amine groups, preferably primary (NH2). More particularly, they are selected from triamine polyethers, notably of formula ALK'”[(O-ALK')m-NH2]3, with ALK' as defined above and ALK”' representing a trivalent (Ci-C6)alkylene group, linear or branched, and m representing an integer greater than or equal to 0.
[0513] Triamine polyethers, and in particular polyethylene glycol and / or polypropylene glycol, are particularly cited as examples of (poly)amine compounds that are triamined. co-diamine (with amine function at the end of the chain) such as those sold under the name Jeffamine T-403.
[0514] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the (poly)amine compound(s) comprise more than three primary and / or secondary amine groups, preferably primary (NH2).
[0515] In this variant, the (poly)amine compound(s) are chosen from poly(meth)acrylates or poly(meth)acrylamides bearing primary or secondary amine functions, such as poly(3-aminopropyl)methacrylamide and poly(2-aminoethyl)methacrylate.
[0516] Preferably, the polyamine compounds are chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups at the end of the chain and / or on side chains.
[0517] According to this variant, the (poly)amine compound(s) are in particular selected from poly(alkylene (C2-C5)imines), and preferably polyethyleneimines and polypropyleneimines, in particular poly(ethyleneimine), in particular that sold under reference 408700 by Aldrich Chemical or under the trade name Lupasol by BASF, in particular with a molecular weight between 1,200 and 25,000; poly(allylamine), in particular that sold under reference 479136 by Aldrich Chemical; polyvinylamines and their copolymers, in particular with vinylamides, in particular vinylamine / vinylformamide copolymers such as those marketed under the name Lupamin® 9030 by BASF; polyamino acids having NH2 groups such as polylysine, in particular that sold by JNC Corporation (formerly Chisso); amino dextran, in particular that sold by the company CarboMer Inc;Polyvinyl amino alcohol, in particular that sold by CarboMer Inc., and acrylamido(Ci-C6)alkylamine-based copolymers, especially acrylamidopropylamine-based copolymers.
[0518] According to a particular embodiment, polydimethylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups at the end of the chain and / or on side chains are selected from the compounds of the following formula (VII):
[0519] Ra-Si(Rb)(Rc)-O-[Si(Rb)(Rc)-O]m-[Si(ALK1-NH2)(Ra)-O]n-Si(Rb)(Rc)-Ra(VII) formula (VII) in which: - Ra, whether identical or different, represents a hydroxyl or (Ci-C4)alkyl group. - Rb and Rc, whether identical or different, preferably identical, represent a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, such as methyl, - ALK1 represents a (Ci-C6)alkylene group, linear or branched, possibly interrupted by an N(H) group, - m and n are integers greater than or equal to 1, preferably m and n are such that the average molecular mass by weight of the compound of formula (VII) ranges from 1000 g.mol1 at 500000 g.mol *.
[0520] According to a preferred variant, formula (VII) is such that Ra, Rb, and Rc represent a methyl group, ALK1 represents a propylene group, n and m are such that the values of n and m are such that the weight-average molecular weight of polydimethylsiloxane ranges from 1000 g.mol1 to 55000 g.mol*.
[0521] Examples of polydimethylsiloxanes of formula (VI) include those sold under the names "AMS-132", "AMS-152", "AMS-162", "AMS-163", "AMS-191" and "AMS-1203" by the company Gelest.
[0522] According to another variant, formula (VII) is such that Ra represents a hydroxyl or (Ci-C4)alkyl group, such as methyl, ALK1 represents a (C5-C6)alkylene group substituted by an NH group, preferably ALK1 represents -(CH2)3 -N(H)-(CH2)2-, and m and n are such that the weight average molecular mass of the compound of formula (VI) ranges from 5000 g.mol1 to 500000 g.mol*.
[0523] As an amino polymer, polytetrahydrofuran (or polytetramethylene glycol) α, co-diamine, and polybutadienes α, co-diamine may also be cited.
[0524] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the (poly)amine compounds are chosen from hyperbranched polymers comprising at least one amino group and dendrimers bearing at least one amino group, such as PAMAM polyamidoamine dendrimers with an ethylenediamine core and a terminal amine function.
[0525] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least one (poly)amino compound other than chitosan(s) iii), in particular selected from aminoalkoxysilanes, polydimethylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups at the end of the chain or on side chains, amodimethicones, polyglucosamines, spermidine, and mixtures thereof.
[0526] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least one (poly)amino compound other than the chitosan(s) iii) selected from:
[0527] ib) diamine polyethers, in particular polyethylene glycol a, co-diamine, with an amine function at the end of the chain,
[0528] ic) triamine polyethers, in particular polyetheramine (or jeffamine),
[0529] id) aminoalkoxysilanes, in particular APTES,
[0530] e) NH2-alk-NH2 polyamine compounds, in which alk denotes a C2-C20 hydrocarbon divalent chain, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms selected from -O-, -N(R)- with R denoting a hydrogen atom or a Ci-C4 alkyl radical, in particular spermidine and 4,7,10-Trioxa-1,13-tridecanediamine, and
[0531] if) polydialkylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups at the end of the chain or on side chains, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups, more particularly poly(dimethoxysiloxane) terminated by bis(3-aminopropyl) (PDMS-diNH2) and amodimethicones comprising amine groups on side chains, more particularly bis-cetearyl amo-dimethicone; A. Method(s) of composition implementation
[0532] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises: a. at least one oil phase comprising i) at least one compound of formula (I) and its optical, geometric and / or solvated isomers, such as hydrates, as defined above; and ii) at least one fatty acid, as defined above, b. at least one aqueous phase comprising iii) at least one chitosan, at least one acid, preferably organic, having a pKa less than 5, and water. c. at least one pigment.
[0533] According to this preferred embodiment, the aqueous phase comprises at least one acid having a pKa less than 5, in particular at least one carboxylic acid of formula (Q), as defined above, having a pKa less than 5. Preferably, the acid having a pKa less than 5 is lactic acid.
[0534] According to this preferred embodiment, the aqueous phase preferably has a pH less than or equal to 6.
[0535] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises: a. at least one oil phase comprising at least one compound of formula (I) i) selected from compounds (1), (3), (4), (7), (8), (9), and (11), in particular selected from compounds (4) and (11) as described above, together with their salts, isomers and solvates; and at least one fatty acid having the structure Rioo-C(0)OH with Ri00 corresponding to an alkyl group comprising from 14 to 20 carbon atoms, b. at least one aqueous phase comprising iii) at least one chitosan, at least one C,6 carboxylic acid of formula (Q), having a pKa less than 5, preferably lactic acid, and water. c. at least one coloring agent iv) chosen from the pigments.
[0536] According to this preferred embodiment, the fatty phase preferably comprises at least one compound of formula (I) i) selected from compounds (4) and (11) and their salts, isomers and solvates; and ii) at least one fatty acid comprising from 14 to 20 carbon atoms.
[0537] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises: a. a content of 0.5 to 50% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of an oil phase comprising at least one compound of formula (I) and its optical, geometric and / or solvated isomers, such as hydrates, as defined previously, and at least one fatty acid, preferably at least one liquid fatty acid, b. a content ranging from 40 to 99% by weight, more preferably a content ranging from 80 to 99% by weight, relative to the total of said composition, of an aqueous phase comprising:
[0538] of water in a content ranging from 70 to 99% by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase,
[0539] of chitosan, in a content ranging from 0.5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase, and
[0540] at least one organic acid, preferably at least one Ci-C6 carboxylic acid of formula (Q), as defined above, having a pKa less than 5, in a content of 0.5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase a. at least one pigment in a total content of 0.05 to 20% by weight, preferably of 0.1 to 15% by weight, better of 0.5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0541] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises: a. a content of 0.5 to 50% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of a fatty phase comprising at least one compound selected from compounds (1), (2), (3), (4), (7), (8), (9) and (11), in particular compounds (4) and (11) as described above, together with their salts, isomers and solvates; and at least one liquid fatty acid having the structure RiO-C(0)OH with RiOo corresponding to an alkyl group comprising 14 to 20 carbon atoms, b. a content ranging from 40 to 99% by weight, more preferably a content ranging from 80 to 99% by weight, relative to the total of said composition, of an aqueous phase comprising:
[0542] of water in a content ranging from 70 to 99% by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase,
[0543] of chitosan, in a content ranging from 0.5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase, and
[0544] at least one organic acid, preferably at least one Ci-C6 carboxylic acid of formula (Q), having a pKa less than 5 in a content of 0.5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase, a. at least one pigment in a total content of 0.05 to 20% by weight, preferably of 0.1 to 15% by weight, better of 0.5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. A. Method for preparing the composition
[0545] The composition according to the invention can be prepared by a known process of The person skilled in the art. More specifically, the process for preparing the oil-in-water emulsion includes: a. the preparation, in a first container, of an aqueous solution of iii) at least one chitosan as defined above; the aqueous solution of at least one chitosan further comprising at least one acid having a pKa less than 5 as defined above, b. the preparation, in a second container, of a mixture comprising at least one compound of formula (I), its optical and geometric isomers and / or its solvates, such as hydrates, as defined above, and at least one fatty acid (ii) as defined above, c. the addition of the mixture obtained in step b) into the aqueous solution obtained in step a) under controlled mechanical stirring.
[0546] An example of a process may consist of first solubilizing at least one chitosan iii) in water, in the presence of at least one acid of pKa less than 5, under stirring at a temperature that may vary from 20 to 45°C. An aqueous solution of chitosan is thus obtained.
[0547] In a thermostatically controlled tank and under controlled mechanical stirring, for example using a rotor / stator, at least one compound of formula (I) i), as described above, and at least one fatty acid ii) are mixed, preferably at room temperature (20 °C) under stirring, until the fatty acid is solubilized.
[0548] The mixture comprising at least one compound of formula (I) i) and at least one fatty acid ii) is then added slowly to the aqueous chitosan solution maintained under mechanical stirring at room temperature, for example under mechanical stirring at 2000 rpm in the rotor / stator for a period of 10 minutes.
[0549] The pigment(s) may be dispersed in the resulting composition just before application.
[0550] The possible additive(s), as described above, is or are added to the aqueous phase and / or the oily phase before emulsification.
[0551] Preferably, the additive(s) include glycerin. A. Process for treating keratin fibers
[0552] As indicated above, the invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process for keratin fibers, preferably human such as hair.
[0553] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is applied to dry or wet keratin fibers.
[0554] Preferably, the cosmetic treatment process for keratin fibers, comprising at least the application to said keratin fibers of at least one composition, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, as defined above, comprising at least one pigment.
[0555] Preferably, the compound or compounds of formula (I) is or are chosen from compounds (1), (2), (3), (4), (7), (8), (9) and (11), in particular compounds (4) and (11) as described above, as well as their optical, geometric and / or solvated isomers, such as hydrates.
[0556] Preferably, the application step can be followed by at least one drying step.
[0557] Preferably, the treatment process is a process for coloring keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers, such as hair, comprising at least the application to said fibers of at least one composition, as defined above, comprising at least one pigment.
[0558] Preferably, the compound(s) of formula (I) is or are chosen from compounds (4) and (11) as described above, as well as their optical, geometric and / or solvated isomers, such as hydrates.
[0559] The composition can be applied to keratin fibers, light or dark, natural or colored, permed, bleached or straightened, dry or wet.
[0560] The step of applying the composition according to the invention may optionally be followed by a rinsing step. Preferably, the step of applying the composition according to the invention is followed by a rinsing step. A. Usage
[0561] The present invention also relates to the use of at least one composition, as defined above, for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers, preferably human keratin fibers such as hair.
[0562] Preferably, the compound or compounds of formula (I) is or are chosen from compounds (1), (2), (3), (4), (7), (8), (9) and (11), in particular compounds (4) and (11) as described above, as well as their optical, geometric and / or solvated isomers, such as hydrates.
[0563] Preferably, the invention also relates to the use of said composition for the treatment, preferably the coloring, of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers, such as hair.
[0564] Even more preferably, the invention relates to the use of said composition for coloring keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers, such as hair, as defined above, comprising at least one pigment.
[0565] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. Examples
[0566] Synthesis of compound no. 4 belonging to formula (I):
[0567] The synthesis is represented by the following preparation scheme:
[0569] In a 250 mL SVL® reactor equipped with mechanical stirring, a thermometer, and a distillation column, 50 g of castor oil (commercially available from Société Interchimie) and 25.40 g of tert-butyl acetoacetate are introduced. The reaction mixture is heated to 130 °C using an oil bath. After 7 hours, the reaction mixture is cooled, transferred to a 250 mL bulb flask, and heated to 120 °C under continuous vacuum using a rotary evaporator for one hour.
[0570] Synthesis of compound no. 11 belonging to formula (I):
[0571] The synthesis is represented by the following preparation scheme: Step a): Step b):
[0574] In step a), in a 250 mL flask equipped with a magnetic stirrer, 100 g of castor oil (commercially available from Interchimie), 17 g of 3-Mercapto-1,2-propanediol (commercially available from Sigma Aldrich), and 1 g of 2-Hydroxy-2-methylpropiophenone (commercially available from Sigma Aldrich) are added to 20 mL of ethyl acetate and stirred for 5 minutes under argon. The reaction mixture is then irradiated under a UV lamp (100 W, 365 nm) for 4 hours and subsequently washed 3 times with saturated NaCl water. The organic phase is separated, dried over MgSO4, and then concentrated under vacuum. The solvent, traces of thiol and photoinitiator (2-Hydroxy 2-methylpropiophenone) are removed by distillation under reduced pressure.
[0575] In step b), 100 g of hydroxylated castor oil obtained in step a) and 99 g of tert-butyl acetoacetate are introduced into a 250 mL round-bottom flask equipped with a magnetic stirrer. The reaction mixture is then heated to a temperature of 130 °C using an oil bath (set to 140 °C on the oil bath). After 4 hours, the reaction mixture is placed under continuous vacuum for 1 hour. A viscous, yellow oil is obtained. Compounds tested:
[0576] The formulations illustrated in the following examples were prepared in particular with the following ingredients: - compound no. 4 prepared according to the synthesis process described above, - compound no. 11 prepared in accordance with the synthesis process described above, - oleic acid as a fatty acid, - chitosan sold under the trade name Kiosmetine - CSH (chitosan according to the invention - amino compound 1), - lactic acid as an acid having a pKa less than 5, - red iron oxide, CI 77491 as a pigment, - glycerin as an additive.
[0577] I. Preparation of the tested compositions 1. Preparation of the aqueous phase containing chitosan
[0578] An aqueous solution of chitosan was prepared by diluting a 9% by weight concentrated chitosan acid solution with 5.8% by weight lactic acid. The required amount of solution was taken and diluted with distilled water to achieve the desired chitosan concentration in the aqueous phase. 1. Emulsion Formulation
[0579] In a beaker, a mixture of compound of formula (I) and oleic acid was prepared under magnetic stirring until the oleic acid was solubilized.
[0580] The previously prepared aqueous chitosan solution is subjected to controlled mechanical stirring at 500 revolutions per minute using a rotor / stator and at room temperature (20°C).
[0581] The mixture of compound of formula (I) and oleic acid is then slowly introduced into the aqueous phase under agitation at 2000 revolutions / minute in the rotor / stator for a period of 10 minutes.
[0582] An oil-in-water emulsion with a whitish appearance is then obtained. 1. Compositions (oil-in-water emulsions) obtained
[0583] Oil-in-water emulsions prepared according to the protocol described in sections 1.1 and 1.2 using the ingredients described above are shown in Table 1 below; quantities are given as percentages by weight, unless otherwise indicated:
[0584] [Tables 1] Compositions 2 3 4 5 6 Compound (11) - 5 5 5 5 Compound (4) 5.7 - - - - Chitosan - amino compound 1 (invention) 4.01 4.75 4.75 4.75 4.75 Oleic acid 1.00 1.19 1.19 1.19 4.75 Lactic acid 2.56 3.04 3.04 3.04 3.04 Red iron oxide, CI 77491 8 8 16 8 8 Glycerin 0 0 0 5 0 Water (total weight as water made up) 100 100 100 100 100 1. Comparative compositions
[0585] Two additional comparative compositions (CC1 and CC2) were also implemented and are described in the following Table 2:
[0586] [Tables2] Compositions ICC CC2 Compound (4) - 5.7 Compound (11) - - Non-functionalized castor oil (not part of the invention) 5.7 - Chitosan - amino compound 1 (invention) 4.01 4.01 Oleic acid 1.00 - Lactic acid 2.56 2.56 Red iron oxide, CI 77491 8 8 Water (total weight as water made up) 100 100
[0587] The comparative composition CCI is an oil-in-water emulsion comprising an unfunctionalized castor oil (i.e., a compound not comprising an acetoacetate function belonging to formula (I) according to the invention).
[0588] Comparative composition CC2 comprises a compound (4), belonging to formula (I) according to the invention (i.e. oil with acetoacetate functions), but is not an emulsion.
[0589] Indeed, the comparative composition CC2 was obtained by mixing the ingredients listed in Table 2 without emulsification (i.e. in the absence of oleic acid and in the absence of mechanical stirring at 2000 rpm).
[0590] III. Evaluation of residual effect of shampoos
[0591] The compositions described above are applied to strands of natural hair that are 90% white (90% BN), at a rate of 1g of composition per gram of hair, and after application the strand of hair is dried using a hair dryer.
[0592] The hair strands thus coloured are then subjected to a test of several repeated shampoos (5 shampoos) in order to evaluate the tenacity (the persistence) of the colour obtained to the shampoos.
[0593] Shampoo resistance assessments are thus conducted 24 hours after application of the composition to the hair strand. Permanence protocol:
[0594] The persistence of the color of the strands was evaluated in the CIE L*a*b* system, using a colorimeter (illuminant D65, angle 10°, specular component included).
[0595] In this L*a*b* system, L* represents the intensity of the color, a* indicates the green / red color axis and b* the blue / yellow color axis.
[0596] The color difference AE between the colored strands is calculated with the values of L*a*b* before shampooing (hair after coloring) and after undergoing five shampoos via the equation below.
[0597] The value of AE is calculated according to the following equation: ae =
[0598] In this equation, L*a*b* represent the values measured after hair coloring and after undergoing shampoos (colored hair having undergone 5 shampoos), and Lo*ao*bo* represent the values measured on the strand after coloring and before shampooing (colored hair before shampooing). Comparison of composition 2 and ICC composition:
[0599] The evaluation results are summarized in Tables 3 and 4 below:
[0600] [Tables3] CCI L* a* b* AE 0 shampoo 30.07 21.99 14.80 21.01 5 shampoos 49.53 14.47 17.33
[0601] [Tables4] Composition 2 L* a* b* AE 0 shampoo 33.73 28.38 22.39 8.27 5 shampoos 41.42 25.50 21.39
[0602] The results show that composition 2, according to the invention, comprising at least one compound of formula (I) significantly improves the persistence of the color to shampoos compared to a CCI composition. Comparison of composition 2 and composition CC2:
[0603] The results of the residual effect assessments of the shampoos of comparative composition CC2 and composition according to invention 2 are summarized in Tables 5 and 6 below:
[0604] [Tables5] CC2 L* a* b* AE 0 shampoo 29.00 24.75 17.14 30.47 5 shampoos 56.24 11.15 15.91
[0605] [Tableauxô] Composition 2 L* a* b* AE 0 shampoo 33.73 28.38 22.39 8.27 5 shampoos 41.42 25.50 21.39
[0606] The results show that composition 2, according to the invention, in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion, significantly improves the persistence of color to shampoos compared to a non-emulsified CC2 composition. Comparison of composition 5 and composition 3
[0607] The results of the residual effect evaluations of the shampoos of the composition according to invention 5 and the composition according to invention 3 are summarized in Tables 9 and 10 below:
[0608] [Tables9] Composition 5 L* a* b* AE 0 shampoo 34.69 26.63 20.91 5.93 5 shampoos 39.23 23.35 18.97
[0609] [TableauxlO] Composition 3 L* a* b* AE 0 shampoo 34.13 25.92 19.93 9.21 5 shampoos 42.00 21.43 18.23
[0610] The results show that composition 5, according to the invention, comprising an additive, in particular glycerin, in the aqueous phase, improves the residual effect of shampoos compared to a similar composition not comprising such an additive.
Claims
1. Demands Composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising: - one or more compounds of formula (I), as well as its optical, geometric and / or solvated isomers, such as hydrates: (I) [(O^Kl)c^ formula (I) in which: - Z represents a multivalent hydrocarbon radical in C2 to C40, in particular in C3 to C36, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, conjugated or not, acyclic or cyclic, aromatic or not, Z possibly being interrupted by one or more groups or heteroatoms chosen from -O-, -N(Ra)-, -S-, -C(O)-, (hetero)cycles, and their combinations; - AK1 represents a linear or branched divalent hydrocarbon chain saturated or unsaturated in C1-C12, preferably in Ci-C6, more preferably saturated in Ci-C6; - AK2 represents a linear or branched monovalent hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, in Ci-C40, optionally substituted by one or more identical or different radicals chosen from -OR, -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(O)-R4)v; and / or said chain being optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, (hetero)cycle(s), and their combinations, in particular -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O- and / or -(hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle-; - AK3 represents a linear or branched divalent hydrocarbon chain saturated or unsaturated in C1-C12, preferably in Ci-C6, more preferentially saturated in Ci-C6, even more preferentially in Ci-C4; - R represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched alkyl radical saturated or unsaturated in Ci-C6, preferably in CrC4, in particular methyl, or a -C(O)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(O)-R4 radical; - X represents -O-, -S-, -OC(O)- or -C(O)-O-; - Y represents -OC(O)- or -C(O)-O-; - R4 represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical in C1 to C6, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably a (CrC4)alkyl group, in particular methyl or tert-butyl, more preferably methyl;
2.
3. - Ra and Rb, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom; - p denotes an integer equal to 0 or 1; - m denotes an integer equal to 0, 1, 2, 3 or 4; it being understood that when m is greater than 1, then the radicals -Y-AK2 are identical or different; - n denotes an integer equal to 0, 1, 2, 3 or 4; it being understood that when n is greater than 1, then the radicals -(O)t-(AKi)q-(OC(O)-C(R a)(Rb)-C(O)-R4)u are identical or different; -1 denotes an integer equal to 0 or 1; - q denotes an integer equal to 0 or 1; - u denotes an integer equal to 1, 2 or 3; - v denotes an integer equal to 1, 2 or 3; it being understood that if q is equal to 0 then t is equal to 0, that (m + n) is greater than or equal to 1, and that the compounds of formula (I) contain at least two -C(O)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(O)-R4 groups; ii) one or more fatty acids, iii) at least chitosan, and iv) possibly one or more pigments v) possibly one or more fats different from the fatty acid(s) ii). Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the chitosan has a degree of acetylation less than or equal to 30%, preferably less than or equal to 15%, more preferably a degree of acetylation ranging from 1 to 10%. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the compound(s) of formula (I), as well as their optical, geometric and / or solvated isomers, such as hydrates, are such that: - Z represents the trivalent radical -CH2-CH-CH2-; - p is equal to 0; - n is equal to 0; - m is equal to 3; - AK2 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated monovalent hydrocarbon chain, in the form Ci2-C24, optionally substituted by one or more identical or different radicals selected from -OR, -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(O)-R4)v, and / or said chain being optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, epoxides, and their combinations, in par particular -O(CO)- or -C(O)-O-; - Y, AK3, v, R, X, R4, Ra and Rb being as defined according to claim 1; it being understood that the compounds contain at least 2 radicals -C(O)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(O)-R4.
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the compound(s) of formula (I), as well as their optical, geometric and / or solvated isomers, such as hydrates, are such that: - p is equal to 0; - Z represents a multivalent hydrocarbon radical in C4 to C24, particularly in C6 to C2o plus particularly in CM to C20, in particular Cp, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated preferably saturated, acyclic, Z being further possibly substituted by one or more radicals -[(O)t-(AKl)q- (OC(O)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(O)-R4)u]n; - n denotes an integer equal to 0, 1, 2, 3 or 4; it being understood that when n is greater than 1, then the radicals -(O)t-(AKi)q-(OC(O)-C(R a)(Rb)-C(O)-R4)u are identical or different; preferably n is non-zero; - m is equal to 1; - AK2 represents a linear or branched monovalent hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, in C3-C8, in particular C4 or C6, substituted by one or more identical or different radicals selected from -OR, -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(O)-R4)v, preferably substituted by one or more -OR radicals; and / or said chain being optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, (hetero)cycle(s), and their combinations, in particular -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O-, -(hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle-, and preferably being uninterrupted; - Y, AK1, AK3, t, q, u, v, R, X, R4, Ra and Rb being as defined according to claim 1; it being understood that the said compound contains at least 2 radicals -C(O)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(O)-R4.
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the compound(s) of formula (I), as well as their optical, geometric and / or solvated isomers, such as hydrates, are such that: - p is equal to 0; - n + m is equal to 4, m being non-zero; - Z represents a tetravalent, hydrocarbon radical in C2 to C24, particularly in C3 to C10, in particular C3, unsubstituted and unbroken, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated and acyclic; - AK2 independently represent a monovalent, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, hydrocarbon chain in C12-C24, preferably in C16-C20, in particular C[8, possibly substituted by one or more identical or different radicals chosen from -OR and -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(O)-R4)v, preferably substituted by one or more -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(O)-R4)v radicals; and / or said chain being possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, (hetero)cycle(s), and their combinations, in particular -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O-, -(hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle-, and preferably being uninterrupted; - AK3 represents a linear or branched divalent hydrocarbon chain saturated or unsaturated in Ci-Ci2, preferably in Ci-C6, more preferentially saturated in Ci-C6, even more preferentially in C2-C4, better in C3; - v is as defined in claim 1; preferably v is equal to 2; - X is as defined in claim 1; preferably X denotes a sulfur atom; - Y, AK1, u, t, q, R, R4, Ra and Rb are as defined according to claim 1; it being understood that the said compound contains at least 2 radicals -C(O)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(O)-R4.
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the compound(s) of formula (I), as well as their optical, geometric and / or solvated isomers, such as hydrates, are such that: - p is equal to 1; - Z represents a multivalent hydrocarbon radical in CM to C24, particularly in Ci6 to C20, preferably Cp, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated and acyclic; Z being further possibly substituted by one or more radicals -[(O)t-(AKl)q -(OC(O)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(O)-R4)u]n, preferably being unsubstituted; - AK2 represents a linear or branched monovalent hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, in Ci4-C30, of preferably in C20-C29, substituted by one or more identical or different radicals chosen from -OR, -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(O)-R4)v, preferably substituted by one or more -OR radicals; and / or said chain being optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, (hetero)cycle(s), and their combinations, in particular -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O-, -(hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle-, preferably being interrupted by -OC(O)- or -C(O)-O-; - X is as defined in claim 1, preferably X denotes a sulfur atom; - Y, AK1, AK3, n, m, v, t, q, u, R, R4, Ra and Rb being as defined in claim 1, it being understood that said compound contains at least 2 C(O)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(O)-R4 radicals.
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the compound(s) of formula (I), as well as their optical, geometric and / or solvated isomers, such as hydrates, are such that: - p is equal to 0; - m is non-zero; - Z represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical in C2 to C24, in particular in C3 to Ci2, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, conjugated or not, preferably not conjugated, acyclic or cyclic, aromatic or not, preferably not aromatic, said radical Z being further interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -O-, -N(Ra)-, -S-, -C(O)-, heterocycloalkyl(s) comprising 5 or 6 links, and their combinations; - AK2 represents a linear or branched monovalent hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, in Ci4-C30, preferably in C[4-C24, preferably in Cp, said chain being optionally substituted by one or more identical or different radicals chosen from -OR and -X-AKS-CO-CCOj-CCRaXRJ-CXOj-RJv, preferably unsubstituted; and / or said chain being optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, (hetero)cycles, and their combinations, in particular -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O- or -(hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle-, preferably optionally interrupted by -OC(O)- or -C(O)-O-, and more preferably being uninterrupted; - X is as defined in claim 1, and preferably X denotes a sulfur atom; - Y, AK1, AK3, v, t, q, u, R, R4, Ra and Rb being as defined in claim 1, it being understood that the said compound contains at least 2 radicals C(O)-C(R a)(Rb)-C(O)-R4.
8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the compound(s) of formula (I) are selected from the following compounds of formula (la), as well as their optical, geometric and / or solvated isomers, such as the hydrates: Z-(Y-AK2)3 (la) formula (la) in which: - Z represents -CH2-CH-CH2- ; - AK2 independently designates a linear or branched monovalent hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, in C[2-C24, possibly substituted by one or more identical or different radicals chosen from -OR and -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(O)-R4)v; and / or said chain being possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, epoxides, and their combinations, in particular -OC(O)- and -C(O)-O-; - Y, AK3, v, R, X, IC, Ra and Rb being as defined in claim 1, preferably Y denotes -OC(O); it being understood that the said compound contains at least 2 radicals C(O)-C(R a)(Rb)-C(O)-R4.
9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the compound(s) of formula (I) are selected from the following compounds of formula (Ib), as well as their optical, geometric and / or solvated isomers, such as the hydrates: m(AK2-Y)-Z-[(O)t-(AKl)q-(OC(O)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(O)-R4)u]n (Ib) formula (Ib) in which: - n + m is equal to 4, m being non-zero; m and n being such as defined in claim 1; - Z represents a tetravalent hydrocarbon radical in C2 to C24, in particular in C3 to C10, preferably in C3, unsubstituted and uninterrupted, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated and acyclic; - AK2 independently represent a monovalent linear or branched hydrocarbon chain, preferably saturated or unsaturated saturated, in Ci2-C24, preferably in Ci6-C20, preferably in C[8, optionally substituted by one or more identical or different radicals chosen from -OR, -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(O)-R4)v, preferably substituted by one or more radicals -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(O)-R4)v; and / or said chain being optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, (hetero)cycle(s), and their combinations, in particular -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O- or -(hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle-, preferably being uninterrupted; - AK3 represents a linear or branched divalent hydrocarbon chain saturated or unsaturated in CrCi2, preferably in Ci-C6, more preferably saturated in Ci-C6, even more preferably in C2-C4, preferably in C3; - v is such as defined in claim 1, preferably v is equal to 2; - X is as defined in claim 1, preferably X denotes a sulfur atom; - Y, AK1, t, q, R, R4, Ra and Rb being as defined in claim 1; it being understood that said compound contains at least 2 radicals -C(O)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(O)-R4.
10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the compound(s) of formula (I) are selected from the following compounds of formula (I), as well as their optical, geometric and / or solvated isomers, such as hydrates: m(AK2 -Y) - ZH - [(O)t-(AKl)q-(OC(O)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(O)-R4)u]n (the) formula (the) in which: - Z represents a multivalent hydrocarbon radical in CM to C24, particularly in Ci6 to C20 such as Cp, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated and acyclic, Z being further possibly substituted by one or more radicals -[(O)t-(AKl)q-(OC(O)-C(Ra)(Rb )-C(O)-R4)u]n, preferably unsubstituted; - AK2 represents a linear or branched monovalent hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, in C14-C30, preferably in C20-C29, substituted by one or more identical or different radicals selected from -OR and -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(O)-R4)v, preferably substituted by one or more -OR radicals; and / or said chain being optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, (hetero)cycle(s), and their combinations, in particular -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O- or (hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle, preferably interrupted by -OC(O)- or -C(O)-O-; - X is as defined in claim 1, and preferably X denotes a sulfur atom; - Y, AK1, AK3, n, m, v, t, q, u, R, R4, Ra and Rb being as defined in claim 1; it being understood that the said compound contains at least 2 radicals -C(O)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(O)-R4.
11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the compound(s) of formula (I) selected from the following compounds of formula (Id), as well as their optical, geometric and / or solvated isomers, such as the hydrates: m(AK2-Y)-Z-[(O)t-(AKl)q-(OC(O)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(O)-R4)u]n (Id) formula (Id) in which: - n + m equals 4, preferably m equals 3; - Z represents a tetravalent hydrocarbon radical in C2 to C24, in particular in C3 to C10, in particular in C4 or C5, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated or acyclic, Z being further substituted by one or more radicals -[(O)t-(AKl)q-(OC(O)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(O)-R4 )u]n, preferably n is equal to 1; - AK2 independently represents a linear or branched monovalent hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, in Ci4-C30, preferably in Ci6-C24, preferably in Cp, said chain being optionally substituted by one or more identical or different radicals selected from -OR or -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(Ra)(R b)-C(O)-R4)v, preferably substituted by one or more -OR radicals; and / or said chain being optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, (hetero)cycle(s), and their combinations, in particular -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O- or (hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle, preferably being uninterrupted; X is as defined in claim 1, preferably X designates a sulfur atom; Y, AK1, AK3, v, R, IC, Ra and Rb being as defined in claim 1, it being understood that these compounds contain at least 2 radicals -C(O)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(O)-R4.
12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the compound(s) of formula (I) are selected from the following compounds of formula (I), as well as their optical isomers, geometric and / or solvated, such as hydrates: m(AK2-Y) - Z - [(0)t-(AKl)q-(0-C(0)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(0)-R4)u]n (the) formula (the) in which: - n + m is equal to 2, m being non-zero, preferably m being equal to 2; n is such as defined in claim 1, preferably n is zero; - Z represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical in C2 to C24, in particular in C3 to C12, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, conjugated or not, preferably not conjugated, acyclic or cyclic, aromatic or not, preferably not aromatic, said radical Z being further interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -O-, -N(Ra)-, -S-, -C(O)-, (hetero)cycle(s), and their combinations; preferably Z denotes a divalent radical -(CH2)g-(heterocycle)-O-(CH2)h-(heterocycle)-(CH2)j- in which h denotes 0, 1 or 2, preferably 0 or 1, g and j independently denote an integer between 1 and 3, preferably 1; (heterocycle) denotes a heterocyclic divalent radical (ia heterocycle), preferably a heterocycloalkyl radical, more particularly a heterocycloalkyl divalent radical comprising 5 or 6 links, in particular a tetrahydrofuran divalent radical or a tetrahydropyran divalent radical, said heterocycle being optionally substituted by one or more radicals selected from -OR with R as defined in claim 1, and in particular -OH or -OC(O)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(O)-R4);. - AK2 represents a linear or branched monovalent hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, in Ci4-C30, preferably Ci4-C24, preferably in Cp, said chain being optionally substituted by one or more identical or different radicals chosen from -OR and -X-AK3-(OC(O)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(O)-R4)v, preferably unsubstituted; and / or said chain being optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -O-, -S-, -C(O)-, (hetero)cycle(s), and their combinations, in particular -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O- or -(hetero)cycle-O-(hetero)cycle-, preferably possibly interrupted by -OC(O)- or -C(O)-O-, and more preferably uninterrupted; - X is as defined in claim 1, preferably X denotes a sulfur atom; - Y, AK1, AK3, v, t, q, u, R, R4, Ra and Rb being as defined in claim 1; it being understood that said compound contains at least 2 C(O)-C(R) radicals
13. a)(Rb)-C(O)-R4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the compound(s) of formula (I) are selected from the compounds below, as well as their optical, geometric and / or solvated isomers, such as hydrates: (8) (14) with W being a hydrogen atony or -C(0)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(0)-R4, and said compound containing at least two -C(O)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(O)-R4 groups, preferably the compound(s) of formula (I) is or are chosen from compounds (4) and (11) and their optical isomers, geometric isomers and / or their solvates such as hydrates.
14. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty acid(s) is / are selected from compounds of structure R20-C(O)OH in which R20 represents a
15.
16.
17. hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 5 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 9 to 24 carbon atoms, better from 11 to 19 carbon atoms, preferably the fatty acid or fatty acids is or are selected from lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, arachidonic acid, isostearic acid, isopalmitic acid, and mixtures thereof, more preferably oleic acid. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least glycerin. A cosmetic treatment process for keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising at least the application to said fibers of at least one composition, as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 15. A process according to claim 16, characterized in that it is a coloring process for keratin fibers comprising at least the application to said fibers of at least one composition, as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 15, comprising one or more pigments.