Composition comprising an oligomer of a hydroxyl fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated diacide, a fatty amine, a fatty ester and at least 10% by weight of polyol

Abstract

A composition comprising an oligomer of a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated diacid, a fatty amine, a fatty ester, and at least 10% by weight of polyol. The present invention relates to a composition, particularly a cosmetic one, comprising an oligomer of a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated diacid, a fatty amine, a fatty ester, and at least 10% by weight of polyol relative to the total weight of the composition. The invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention for the treatment of keratin fibers, and more particularly for hair repair and smoothing. The invention further relates to a method for repairing keratin fibers, particularly human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising at least one step of applying the composition according to the invention to said fibers.

Description

Title of the invention: Composition comprising an oligomer of a hydroxyl fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated diacid, a fatty amine, a fatty ester and at least 10% by weight of polyol Technical field of the invention

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition comprising an oligomer of a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated diacid, a fatty amine, a fatty ester, and at least 10% by weight of polyol relative to the total weight of the composition. More particularly, the composition is a cosmetic composition intended for the treatment of keratin fibers, especially hair, and more particularly for hair repair and smoothing. The invention also relates to a method for treating keratin fibers, particularly human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising at least one step of applying the composition according to the invention to said fibers. Context of the invention

[0002] Hair is a keratinous substance that is repeatedly subjected to various stresses related to environmental factors (such as exposure to UV rays and pollution) and treatments such as bleaching, coloring, perming, or heat straightening. Hair is also regularly exposed to mechanical stress, particularly during hair care routines (for example, due to frequent brushing, or detangling and styling).

[0003] Thus, the hair structure tends to be altered. More specifically, the cuticles are raised and the hair fibers become porous, while split ends appear. Generally, the fibers bend and position themselves in a disorganized manner relative to one another. The consequences on the hair's texture are noticeable, as it becomes difficult to comb in both wet and dry conditions, exhibits increased susceptibility to static electricity, is unmanageable, and has a rough appearance, particularly at the ends. Overall, the hair, and especially its ends, is weakened, dehydrated, and breaks more easily.

[0004] There is a need to provide compositions that overcome all these drawbacks, and which are particularly capable of strengthening keratin fibers by repairing cuticles and sealing split ends where necessary. In particular, there is a need to restore the axial cohesion of the tips in order to realign the keratin fibers (discipline), and to give damaged hair a smoother feel and appearance, suppleness, to facilitate detangling and individualization (also called untangling), and this in a lasting way.

[0005] Furthermore, there is a need to provide a composition that is easily applied to damp hair with a texture capable of giving it good suppleness upon application (also called hair transformation) and good coating quality. The composition must also be stable during storage in order to obtain this particular texture at the time of application, while being based on a majority of renewable and biodegradable ingredients.

[0006] These objectives can be achieved in whole or in part by the compositions according to the invention. Summary of the invention

[0007] In a first aspect, the present invention relates to a composition (C), in particular a cosmetic composition comprising: i. at least one oligomer of a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated diacid; ii. at least one fatty amine; iii. at least one fatty ester; and iv. at least 10% by weight of polyol relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0008] Preferably, the compositions according to the invention are free from silicones, cationic polymers and cationic surfactants other than fatty amines.

[0009] In a second aspect, the invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method for human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising applying a composition (C) as defined above to said keratin fibers. More particularly, the method allows for the repair of keratin fibers. Even more specifically, the method allows for the repair and smoothing of hair, facilitates detangling, improves its properties in terms of suppleness and manageability, and allows for good individualization of the hair. Advantageously, it is observed that the cosmetic properties conferred by the compositions according to the invention are long-lasting in that they persist after shampooing.

[0010] In a third aspect, the present invention relates to the use of a composition (C) as defined above for the treatment of keratin fibers, and more particularly the repair and smoothing of hair. Detailed description of the invention

[0011] Other objects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will appear even more clearly upon reading the description and the example that follows.

[0012] In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated:

[0013] The boundaries of a domain of values ​​are included in this domain, in particular in the expressions "between", "ranging from ... to ..." and "comprising ... to ...".

[0014] The expression "at least one" is equivalent to the expression "one or more" and can be substituted for it; the expression "between" is equivalent to the expression "ranging from" and can be substituted for it, and implies that the bounds are included.

[0015] The term "keratin fibers" refers to fibers of human or animal origin such as hair, fur, eyelashes, eyebrows, wool, angora, cashmere, or fur. According to the present invention, the keratin fibers are preferably human keratin fibers, more preferably hair from the head.

[0016] The term “durable”, when used to characterize a cosmetic effect within the framework of the present invention, means that the effect persists after one or more shampoos.

[0017] By "transformation" or "transformation upon application," we mean the softening of the keratin fiber upon contact with a composition. More specifically, the composition (C) according to the invention is applied to wet hair. The transformation property is therefore evaluated on wet hair.

[0018] Oligomer of a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated diacid

[0019] Composition (C) according to the present invention comprises at least one oligomer of a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated diacid. If two or more oligomers of a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated diacid are used, they may be identical or different.

[0020] The term "oligomer" here refers to a polymer in which a relatively small number of monomers are linked. Preferably, the number of monomers in the oligomer is 100 or less, more preferably 50 or less, and even more preferably 20 or less.

[0021] The oligomer of a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated diacid can be obtained by the reaction of a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride (such as hydrogenated castor oil, INCI name "hydrogenated castor oil") and a saturated diacid. The reaction can be an esterification.

[0022] According to the present invention, a diacid is said to be saturated when the hydrocarbon chain from which it is composed does not contain an unsaturated group, that is to say, a carbon-carbon double bond. The term "diacid" here refers to a hydrocarbon compound having two carboxyl groups (-COOH). The composition according to the invention may comprise a single diacid or a mixture of several different diacids.

[0023] Similarly, in the context of the present invention, the oligomer can be a mixture of several different oligomers.

[0024] Among the saturated diacids that can be used, we can mention sebacic acid (or 1,10-decanedioic acid), malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, azelaic acid, octadecamethylene dicarboxyl acid and eicosadicarboxylic acid.

[0025] More particularly, the oligomer can be an oligoester whose monomers are represented by the following formulas (A) of triglyceride and (B) of diacid: | p R2 R2 | CHOH CHOH CHOH | Ri m ri c ---O c Ÿ 9 9 ----------- CH--CH (HAS) | fl — X ™ C | (B)

[0026] in which:

[0027] Ri represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkylene group, comprising for example from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably represents the group -(CH2)r, where "1" can vary from 1 to 20, and preferably from 3 to 16, better still from 6 to 12,

[0028] R2 represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl group, comprising, for example, from 1 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably represents the group -(CH2)m-CH3, where "m" can vary from 0 to 11, and preferably from 2 to 11, better still from 3 to 9, and

[0029] Xi represents a linear or branched alkylene group, preferably represents the linear alkylene group -(CH2 )x-, where "x" is an integer from 1 to 30, and preferably from 3 to 15.

[0030] According to a preferred embodiment, 1=10 and m=5, and the OH group --RI--C--“R2 H

[0031] in formula (A) above represents the alkyl residue of the acid 12-hydroxystearic (the major component of hydrogenated castor oil).

[0032] When the diacid is sebacic acid, X represents the linear alkylene group -(CH2)X-, where "x" is equal to 8.

[0033] The average degree of polymerization of the oligomer can vary between 3 and 12, preferably between 4 and 10.

[0034] Thus, the oligomer of a triglyceride of a hydroxylated fatty acid and a saturated diacid can be represented by the following formula (C):

[0035] in which

[0036] each of Rb R2 and Xia the meaning explained above, and

[0037] n means an average degree of polymerization between 3 and 12, preferably between 4 and 10.

[0038] It is preferable that the following group: Ç (H) — R —CH-R2

[0039] in formula (C) above represents the alkyl residue of 12-hydroxystearic acid, and Xi represents -(CH2 )8 -.

[0040] It is preferable that the oligomer of a triglyceride of a hydroxylated fatty acid and a saturated diacid be an oligoester of hydrogenated castor oil and sebacic acid, i.e. a hydrogenated castor oil / sebacic acid copolymer formed from hydrogenated castor oil and sebacic acid.

[0041] Preferably, a compound with the INCI name "hydrogenated castor oil / sebacic acid copolymer" will be used.

[0042] Such compounds are notably sold by the company CRODA under the trade names CROMADOL CWS-5, CROMADOL CWS-10, CRODABOND CSA.

[0043] The oligomer(s) of a triglyceride of a hydroxylated fatty acid and of a saturated diacid may be present in the composition according to the present invention in a total amount of 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.2% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0044] The oligomer(s) of a triglyceride of a hydroxylated fatty acid and of a saturated diacid may be present in the composition according to the present invention in a total quantity equal to or less than 10% by weight, preferably equal to or less than 5% by weight, and more preferably equal to or less than 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0045] The oligomer(s) of a triglyceride of a hydroxylated fatty acid and of a saturated diacid may be present in the composition according to the present invention in a total quantity from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Fatty amines

[0046] The composition (C) according to the present invention comprises at least one fatty amine.

[0047] The term “fatty amine” means a compound comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, possibly (poly)oxyalkylened, or their salts and comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain.

[0048] Preferably, the fatty amines according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylated.

[0049] The fatty amines that may be used in the context of the invention may be fatty amidoamines, tertiary fatty amines or a mixture of these compounds.

[0050] The term "amidoamine" means a compound comprising at least one amide function and at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, possibly (poly)oxyalkylated, or their salts.

[0051] The term "fatty amidoamine" means an amidoamine comprising at least one C6-C3o hydrocarbon chain. Preferably, the fatty amidoamines according to the invention are not in quaternized form when introduced into the composition (which does not preclude the possibility that they may quaternize in situ).

[0052] As examples of fatty amidoamines, one can cite fatty amidoamines in which the fatty chain at C6-C30 can be carried by the amine group or by the amido group.

[0053] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylated.

[0054] Among the amidoamines that could be used in the context of the invention, mention may be made of amidoamines of formula (Dl): RCONHR”N(R')2 (Dl)

[0055] in which:

[0056] - R represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 5 to 29 atoms of carbon, preferably of 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a C5-C29 alkyl radical, preferably C7-C23, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, even actually substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups (-OH); preferably a linear or branched alkyl radical in C5-C29, better in C7-C23, or an alkenyl radical in C5-C29, better in C7-C23; preferably a linear or branched radical, saturated or comprising a double unsaturation (C=C) in C7-C23;

[0057] - R' ' represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, preferably linear, having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms; better yet 3 carbon atoms; and

[0058] - R', identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; preferably a methyl or ethyl radical.

[0059] Preferably, in formula (Dl):

[0060] - R' are identical and represent a methyl group;

[0061] - R' ' represents a linear divalent hydrocarbon radical, having 2 to 4 atoms of carbon; better yet, 3 carbon atoms and

[0062] - R represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, saturated or comprising a unsaturation (C=C), in C7-C23.

[0063] Amidoamines of formula (Dl) may be selected, alone or in mixtures, from the following compounds:

[0064] oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamindopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine.

[0065] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof.

[0066] As examples of fatty amines, tertiary fatty amines may also be mentioned, and in particular tertiary fatty amines of formula (D2): RN(R')2 in which: - R represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and in particular an alkyl radical in the C6-C30 range, preferably in the C8-C24 range, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; preferably a linear or branched alkyl radical in the C6-C30 range, better in the C8-C24 range; or a linear or branched alkenyl radical at C6-C30, preferably at C8-C24; and - R', identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; preferably, a methyl radical.

[0067] The following compounds can be cited as fatty amines corresponding to formula (D2): dimethyllauramine, dimethylbehenamine, dimethylcocamine, di-methylmyristamine, dimethylpalmitamine, dimethylstearamine, dimethyltal-lowamine, dimethylsoyamine, and mixtures thereof.

[0068] Preferably, the fatty amines according to the invention are fatty amidoamines.

[0069] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty amidoamines corresponding to the formula (Dl) as defined above, and more particularly selected from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof. More particularly, the composition according to the invention comprises stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.

[0070] Preferably, the total amount of fatty amines, preferably fatty amidoamines of formula (Dl) as defined above, ranges from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better from 0.25 to 5% by weight, or even from 0.5 to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0071] More particularly, the fatty amidoamine(s) chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof, are preferably present in a total quantity ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better from 0.25 to 5% by weight, or even from 0.5 to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0072] Even more preferably, when the composition according to the invention contains stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, it is present in a total quantity ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better from 0.25 to 5% by weight, or even from 0.5 to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Fatty esters

[0073] Composition (C) according to the present invention comprises one or more fatty esters, that is to say, one or more esters of fatty carboxylic acid(s) and / or fatty alcohol(s). These esters may be solid or liquid (at 25°C, 1 atm). They are different from the compounds described previously.

[0074] Liquid fatty esters

[0075] Among the liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, particular examples include esters of saturated or unsaturated mono- or polyaliphatic acids, linear in C1 to C26 or branched in C3 to C26, and of saturated or polyaliphatic mono- or polyaliphatic alcohols. unsaturated, linear in Cl to C26 or branched in C3 to C26, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 8, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.

[0076] For monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol or acid from which the esters of the invention are derived can be branched.

[0077] Among the monoesters, the following may be mentioned: dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isoamyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, such as ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate; alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate; isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldodecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.

[0078] Preferably among monoesters, fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters will be used such that the alcohol contains at least 10 carbon atoms and the carboxylic acid contains 10 or fewer carbon atoms, preferably selected from isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; isodecyl octanoate; coco caprylate; coco caprate; and mixtures thereof.

[0079] Still within the framework of this variant, esters of di- or tricarboxylic acids in C4 to C22 and of alcohols in Cl to C22 and esters of mono-, di-, or tricarboxylic acids and di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols in C2 to C26 can also be used.

[0080] Examples include: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; din-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyl-dodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisotearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisanonate; polyethylene glycol distearates, and mixtures thereof.

[0081] The composition may also include, as fatty esters, esters and di-esters of sugars and fatty acids in the C6 to C30 range, preferably C12 to C22. It should be noted that the term "sugar" refers to oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds possessing multiple alcohol groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone groups, and containing at least four carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.

[0082] Suitable sugars may be cited for example sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives in particular alkylated, such as methylated derivatives like methylglucose.

[0083] Sugar and fatty acid esters may be selected in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of sugar esters described above and fatty acids in the ranges of C6 to C30, preferably C12 to C22, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

[0084] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters, polyesters and their mixtures.

[0085] These esters may be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonate, or mixtures thereof, such as mixed oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate, palmito-stearate esters.

[0086] More particularly, mono- and di- esters are used, and in particular mono- or di- oleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate, oleostearate, of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose, and mixtures thereof.

[0087] One can cite as an example the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0088] Preferably, at least one liquid fatty ester of monoacid and monoalcohol will be used.

[0089] Fatty solids ester

[0090] Among the solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols that may be used, we can mention esters derived from C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acids and / or C9-C26 fatty alcohols.

[0091] More particularly, these solid fatty acid esters are esters of saturated linear or branched carboxylic acids comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of saturated linear or branched monoalcohols comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.

[0092] Esters of C4-C22 di- or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols, and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and alcohols, can also be used.

[0093] di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxylated at C2-C26.

[0094] Examples include octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, C9-C26 alkyl stearates (in particular myristyle stearate, cetyl stearate and stearyl stearate), octyl pelargonate, C9-C26 alkyl myristates (in particular cetyl myristate, myristyle myristate and stearyl myristate), diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, Diisopropyl adipate, din-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, octyl palmitate, C9-C26 alkyl palmitates (including myristyle palmitate, cetyl palmitate, and stearyl palmitate), and mixtures thereof. In particular, compounds with the INCI name "cetyl esters" may be mentioned.

[0095] In a preferred embodiment, the fatty esters according to the invention are selected from liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols such that the alcohol contains at least 10 carbon atoms and the carboxylic acid contains 10 or fewer carbon atoms, preferably selected from isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; isodecyl octanoate; coco caprylate; coco caprate; and mixtures thereof. Coco caprate, coco caprylate, or mixtures thereof are preferred. The ester with the INCI name "coco caprylate / caprate" is particularly preferred.

[0096] In another embodiment, the INCI-named esters "cetyl esters" and isoamyl laurate, alone or in mixture, may be used.

[0097] In the cosmetic composition according to the invention, the total content of fatty ester(s) preferably ranges from 0.05 to 15% by weight, better from 0.1 to 10% by weight, even better from 0.2 to 8% by weight, even better from 0.2 to 5% by weight, or even from 0.3 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0098] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more esters of carboxylic acid(s) and alcohol(s) comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, in a total quantity ranging from 0.05 to 15% by weight, better from 0.1 to 10% by weight, even better from 0.2 to 8% by weight, even better from 0.2 to 5% by weight, or even from 0.3 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0099] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols such that the alcohol contains at least 10 carbon atoms and the carboxylic acid contains 10 or fewer carbon atoms, preferably selected from isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; lactate of linoleyl; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; isodecyl octanoate; coco caprylate; coco caprate; and mixtures thereof, in a total quantity ranging from 0.05 to 15% by weight, better from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.2 to 8% by weight, better still from 0.2 to 5% by weight, or even from 0.3 to 2% by weight.

[0100] More preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises coconut caprate, coconut caprylate, and mixtures thereof, better still of coco caprylate / caprate (INCI name), in a total quantity ranging from 0.05 to 15% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.2 to 8% by weight, better still from 0.2 to 5% by weight, or even from 0.3 to 2% by weight.

[0101] In another alternative, when present in the composition according to the invention, isoamyl laurate and cetyl esters (INCI name), alone or in mixture, are preferably present in a total quantity ranging from 0.05 to 15% by weight, better from 0.1 to 10% by weight, even better from 0.2 to 8% by weight, even better from 0.2 to 5% by weight, or even from 0.3 to 2% by weight. Polyols

[0102] The composition according to the invention comprises a total amount of at least 10% by weight of one or more polyols relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0103] The polyol(s) present in the composition of the invention are preferably chosen from among the polyols of formula (E) following: R'2 RL RN---C-----■ [A] ------ C---R'4 । L- J m । OH OH

[0104] formula (E) in which:

[0105] - R'i, R'2, R'3 and R'4, whether identical or different, independently designate one of the other a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical, linear or branched, in Cl to C6 or a mono or polyhydroxyalkylated radical in Cl to C6,

[0106] - A denotes an alkyl radical, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, this radical includes from 0 to 9 oxygen atoms, but no hydroxyl group, and

[0107] - m denotes 0 or 1.

[0108] The polyol(s) are preferably chosen from polyols of formula (E), in which m is 0, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably from propylene glycol (propane-1,2-diol), caprylyl glycol (1,2-octanediol), 1,2,3-propanetriol, pinacol (2,3-dimethyl 2,3-butanediol), 1,2,3-butanetriol, 2,3-butanediol, the glycerin, sorbitol and mixtures thereof.

[0109] The polyol(s) may also be selected from polyols of formula (E), in which m is 1 and R'b, R'2, R'3, and R'4, whether identical or different, designate, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical in the C6 to C1 group, and mixtures thereof. They may advantageously be selected from polyethylene glycols and mixtures thereof, and more particularly the product designated PEG-6 or PEG-8 in the CTFA (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, Seventh Edition).

[0110] The polyol(s) may also be chosen from polyols of formula (E), in which m is 1 and R', R'2, R'3, and R'4, identical or different, designate, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical in Cl to C6, and whose molecular weight is less than 200, and their mixtures. According to this particular embodiment, the polyol(s) are preferably chosen from 3-methyl-1,3,5-pentanetriol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, 1,5-pentanediol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 3-methyl-1,5-pentanediol, neopentyl glycol (2,2-dimethyl-1,3-propanediol), isoprene glycol (3-methyl-1,3-butanediol), hexylene glycol (2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol) and mixtures thereof, and more preferably from hexylene glycol, neopentyl glycol, 3-methyl-1,5-pentanediol and mixtures thereof.

[0111] Preferably, the molecular weight (MW) of said polyol(s) present in the composition of the invention is between 50 and 350, more preferably between 60 and 200, and even better between 70 and 150.

[0112] Preferably, the polyol(s) are chosen from diols, glycerin, and mixtures thereof, more preferably from compounds of formula (E) in which R', R'2, R'3 and R'4, identical or different, independently designate a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical in Cl to C6, glycerin and mixtures thereof.

[0113] Advantageously, the polyol(s) are selected from glycerin, propylene glycol (propane-1,2-diol), caprylyl glycol (1,2-octanediol), pinacol (2,3-dimethyl 2,3-butanediol), 2,3-butanediol, polyethylene glycols, 1,5-pentanediol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 3-methyl-1,5-pentanediol, neopentyl glycol (2,2-dimethyl-1,3-propanediol), isoprene glycol (3-methyl-1,3-butanediol), hexylene glycol (2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol), dipropylene glycol, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the polyol is glycerin, propylene glycol or dipropylene glycol, and mixtures thereof, more preferably, the polyol is glycerin.

[0114] In the cosmetic composition according to the invention, the total content of the polyol(s) is preferably from 10 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 12 to 25% by weight, and better from 12 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0115] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises glycerin in a Total quantity ranging from 10 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 12 to 25% by weight, and better from 12 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Vegetable protein hydrolysate

[0116] The composition according to the invention may optionally include one or more hydrolysates of vegetable protein.

[0117] The term “protein hydrolysate”, as used herein, refers to the product of the hydrolysis of homogeneous or heterogeneous proteins, or their respective components, derivatives or combinations thereof, from plant-based sources including, but not limited to, plants and their respective components, and seeds.

[0118] Preferably, the protein(s) is / are chosen from pea protein, soy protein, wheat protein, maize protein, rice protein, sweet almond protein, and mixtures thereof.

[0119] More preferably, the vegetable protein hydrolysate is a soy protein hydrolysate or a rice protein hydrolysate or a mixture of the two, more preferably a soy protein hydrolysate.

[0120] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more hydrolysate(s) of vegetable protein(s).

[0121] Advantageously, the total quantity of the hydrolysate(s) of vegetable protein(s) ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.08 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention. Fatty alcohols

[0122] The composition according to the invention may optionally include one or more fatty alcohols different from the polyols previously described.

[0123] By "fatty alcohol" is meant an aliphatic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, non-glycerolated and non-oxyalkylated alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, comprising a single hydroxyl group, and preferably having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. The fatty alcohols according to the invention are therefore fatty monoalcohols.

[0124] Preferably, the composition (C) according to the invention comprises one or more fatty alcohols.

[0125] The fatty alcohols according to the invention can be chosen from solid fatty alcohols, liquid fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

[0126] By "solid" is meant a compound that is solid at a temperature of 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg or 1.013 x 10⁵ Pa). Preferably, this compound has a viscosity greater than 2 Pa·s at 25°C for a shear rate of 1 s⁻¹.

[0127] The solid fatty alcohols that may be used are insoluble in water, that is to say that they have a solubility in water of less than 1% by weight and preferably less than 0.5% by weight, at 25°C, 1 atm.

[0128] The solid fatty alcohols according to the invention are selected from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0129] More preferably, the solid fatty alcohols according to the invention are chosen from saturated, linear alcohols comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms, better 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0130] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols according to the invention are chosen from fatty alcohols having a melting point above 30°C, preferably above 35°C.

[0131] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol(s) are chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristic alcohol, and mixtures thereof, more preferably cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof such as cetearyl alcohol, and even more preferably cetyl alcohol.

[0132] By “liquid” is meant a liquid compound at a temperature of 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm of Hg or 1.013.105 Pa).

[0133] The liquid fatty alcohols according to the invention are chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0134] The liquid fatty alcohols that may be used may be selected from, alone or in mixture, oleic alcohol, linoleic alcohol, linolenic alcohol, iso-cetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-octyl-l-dodecanol, 2-butyl-octanol, 2-hexyl-l-decanol, 2-decyl-l-tetradecanol, 2-tetradecyl-l-cetanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0135] Advantageously, the total quantity of the solid or liquid fatty alcohol(s) ranges from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0136] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more solid fatty alcohol(s), more preferably chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof such as cetearyl alcohol, better still the solid fatty alcohol is cetyl alcohol.

[0137] Advantageously, the total quantity of the solid fatty alcohol(s) ranges from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0138] More particularly, when present in the composition according to the invention, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixtures such as cetearyl alcohol are preferably present in a total quantity ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, of preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention. Cationic polymers

[0139] In a preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention are free of cationic polymers.

[0140] The term “cationic polymer” means any non-siliconized polymer containing cationic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups, and not containing anionic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into anionic groups. Silicones

[0141] In a preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention are free of silicones.

[0142] The term "silicones" means amine silicones, non-amine silicones, and mixtures thereof. Non-amine silicones may be solid or liquid, volatile or non-volatile. Non-amine silicones may also be soluble or insoluble and may be in the form of oil, wax, resin, or gum. Silicones are described in detail, in particular, in Walter Noll's "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academy Press. Cationic surfactants

[0143] In a preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention are free of cationic surfactants other than fatty amines. Other ingredients

[0144] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention can be anhydrous.

[0145] The term "anhydrous" means that the composition comprises a maximum of 5% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably a maximum of 3% by weight of water, better a maximum of 2% by weight of water, even better a maximum of 1% by weight of water, and preferably is free of water (0%).

[0146] According to another embodiment of the invention, the composition may be an aqueous composition. When it includes water, the composition according to the invention may have a water content ranging from 50 to 98% by weight, preferably ranging from 60 to 95% by weight, better ranging from 70 to 93% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0147] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is aqueous.

[0148] The composition according to the invention may also include one or more additional compounds, different from the compounds previously described, selected from natural or synthetic thickeners or viscosity regulators, UV filters, fillers such as mother-of-pearl, titanium dioxide, resins and clays, perfumes, pigments, vitamins, acidic agents, alkaline agents, coloring materials, pearlescent agents, opacifying agents, film-forming polymers, fixing polymers, solid fats, antioxidant agents, and preservatives.

[0149] A person skilled in the art shall take care to choose any additional compounds and their quantity so that they do not impair the properties of the composition of the present invention.

[0150] These additives may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0151] Preferably, the weight ratio between the polyol(s) and the fatty ester(s) is greater than or equal to 1, more preferably greater than or equal to 5, better greater than or equal to 10.

[0152] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic composition, preferably for hair, comprises: i. at least one oligomer of a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated diacid, preferably of hydrogenated castor oil and sebacic acid, more particularly the compound with the INCI name "hydrogenated castor oil / sebacic acid copolymer", preferably in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; ii. at least one fatty amine, preferably a fatty amidoamine, more preferably stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, preferably in a total quantity of 0.1 to 10% by weight, better 0.25 to 5% by weight, or even 0.5 to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; iii. at least one fatty ester, preferably coco caprylate / caprate (INCI name), preferably in a total quantity of 0.05 to 15% by weight, better 0.1 to 10% by weight, even better 0.2 to 8% by weight, even better 0.2 to 5% by weight, or even 0.3 to 2% by weight; and iv. at least 10% of polyol, preferably glycerin, preferably in an amount of 10 to 30% by weight, more preferably 12 to 25% by weight, and better 15 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0153] said composition being preferably free of cationic polymers, silicones and cationic surfactants other than fatty amines.

[0154] In another preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition, preferably for hair, further comprises: i. at least one vegetable protein hydrolysate, preferably the hydrolysate of soy protein, preferably in an amount from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.08 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention; and / or ii. at least one fatty alcohol, preferably selected from solid fatty alcohols, preferably selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, even better cetyl alcohol, preferably in a total amount from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0155] When the composition is aqueous, the pH of the composition according to the invention generally varies from 2 to 12, preferably from 2.5 to 9, preferably from 3 to 8, and better from 3.5 to 7, and better still from 3.5 to 5.

[0156] The pH of the composition can be adjusted to the desired value by means of commonly used alkalizing or acidifying agents. Examples of alkalizing agents include ammonia, alkanolamines, and mineral or organic hydroxides. Examples of acidifying agents include mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, and carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.

[0157] Hair care compositions according to the invention may be, for example, conditioning shampoos, conditioners, masks, serums and leave-in treatments.

[0158] The cosmetic composition may therefore be rinsed off or not after being applied to the keratin fibers, for example with water after a possible application time. Preferably, the composition is not rinsed off.

[0159] The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process for keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising the application to said keratin fibers of a composition as defined above.

[0160] The cosmetic composition according to the invention can be applied to dry or wet keratin fibers, preferably wet, possibly having previously been washed with shampoo.

[0161] In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition is applied to moist keratin fibers, previously washed with shampoo, rinsed, and then optionally treated with a rinse-off conditioner before the application of the composition (C).

[0162] Preferably, the application of the composition according to the invention is not followed by rinsing.

[0163] The process according to the invention is in particular a hair treatment process, which It helps to repair and smooth the hair. The hair thus treated has improved cosmetic properties in terms of manageability, smoothness to the touch and visual smoothness, softening at the time of application, detangling, suppleness, individualization of the hair and coating, more particularly in terms of detangling, suppleness, smoothness to the touch, manageability and individualization of the hair.

[0164] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. EXAMPLES Example 1

[0165] The Al composition according to the invention was prepared from the ingredients indicated in the following table. The quantities indicated are expressed as a percentage by weight of active ingredient relative to the total weight of the formula.

[0166] [Tables 1] Composition according to the invention: Cetyl alcohol 3 Hydrogenated castor oil / sebacic acid copolymer (INCI name) 0.5 Vegetable protein hydrolysate 0.1 Stearamidopropyl dimethylamine 1.2 Coco caprylate / caprate 0.7 Lactic acid 0.3 Glycerin 17.5 Preservatives q.s. Perfume 0.8 Water q.s. 100

[0167] Composition Al was applied to damaged hair. It was observed that the treated hair generally exhibited good cosmetic properties in terms of manageability, smoothness to the touch and visual smoothness, softening upon application, detangling, suppleness, individualization of the hair and coating. Example 2

[0168] Two formulas (A and B) according to the invention and a comparative formula C are prepared from the ingredients indicated in the following table. The quantities indicated are expressed as a percentage by weight of active ingredient relative to the total weight of the formula.

[0169] [Tables 2] Composition A (invention) B (invention) C (comparative) Cetyl alcohol 3 3 3 Stearamidopropyl hydroxyethylamine 1.2 1.2 1.2 Glycerin 17.5 13 7 Coco caprylate / caprate 0.7 0.7 0.7 Hydrogenated castor oil / sebacic acid copolymer (INCI name) 0.5 0.5 0.5 Vegetable protein hydrolysate 0.1 0.1 0.1 Lactic acid 0.3 0.3 0.3 Preservatives QS QS QS Fragrance 0.8 0.8 0.8 Water QS 100 QS 100 QS 100

[0170] Protocol

[0171] Formulas A, B and C are applied to sensitized wet hair strands at a rate of 0.055g / g of hair. The hair strands had been previously washed with Elsève Total Repair 5 shampoo (0.3g / g of hair), then rinsed and treated with a rinse-off conditioner (Elsève Total Repair 5 conditioner) (0.5g / g of hair).

[0172] Wet hair strands are evaluated by 3 experts (sensory analysis) and rated for smoothness to the touch. The strands are then blow-dried and evaluated on cosmetic criteria, in particular smoothness to the touch, manageability, and individualization of the hair. This study evaluates the cosmetic performance of formulas A, B, and C obtained on day 0 (D0).

[0173] The hair strands are then washed with Elsève Total Repair 5 shampoo (0.4g / g of hair). The hair strands are assessed by 3 experts and rated on the criteria of detangling, smoothness to the touch, and manageability. The strands are then blow-dried and assessed on the criteria of smoothness to the touch, suppleness, manageability, and individualization of the hair. This study evaluates the persistence of the cosmetic performance of formulas A, B, and C after one shampoo.

[0174] The different criteria are rated from 0 to 5, with 0 being associated with the lowest performance and 5 with the best performance.

[0175] Results

[0176] [Tables3] C (comparative) B (invention) A (invention) Average Average Average JO Smooth wet touch 3.33 3.83 4.50 Smooth dry touch 2.67 3.33 3.67 Delicate dry 3.00 3.50 3.50 Discipline dry 1.67 3.00 3.83

[0177] Compositions A and B according to the invention lead to higher performance in terms of smoothness to the touch, detangling on dry hair and discipline on dry hair than comparative composition C.

[0178] [Tables4] C (comparative) B (invention) A (invention) Average Average Average Residuality Detangling (scale of 0 to 5) 3.00 3.50 3.50 Smooth wet touch 1.33 1.67 2.17 Thin wet 2.00 2.17 2.33 Smooth dry touch 2.17 3.50 3.67 Thin dry 2.33 2.67 3.17 Suppleness dry 1.67 2.50 3.00 Discipline dry 1.33 2.67 3.33

[0179] After shampooing, compositions A and B according to the invention result in higher scores on the criteria of detangling, smoothness to the touch and detangling on wet hair than those obtained for comparative composition C. In addition, the scores obtained on the criteria of smoothness to the touch, detangling, suppleness and manageability on dry hair are also higher for the compositions according to the invention than for comparative composition C.

Claims

Demands

1. Composition (C) including cosmetics comprising: i. at least one oligomer of a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated diacid; ii. at least one fatty amine; iii. at least one fatty ester; and iv. at least 10% by weight of polyol relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. Composition (C) according to claim 1 wherein the hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride is represented by the following formula (A): in which: - Ri represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkylene group, comprising for example from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably represents the group -(CH2)i-, where "1" can vary from 1 to 20, and preferably from 3 to 16, better still from 6 to 12, - R2 represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl group, comprising for example from 1 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably represents the group -(CH2)m-CH3, where "m" can vary from 0 to 11, and preferably from 2 to 11, better still from 3 to 9, and The saturated diacid is represented by the following formula (B): in which: - Xi represents a linear or branched alkylene group, preferably represents the linear alkylene group -(CH2)X-, where "x" is an integer from 1 to 30, and preferably from 3 to 15.

3. Composition (C) according to claim 2 wherein the oligomer of a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated diacid is a hydrogenated castor oil / sebacic acid copolymer, more particularly the compound with INCI name "hydrogenated castor oil / sebacic acid copolymer".

4. Composition (C) according to any one of claims 1 to 3 wherein the total amount of oligomer(s) of a triglyceride of a hydroxylated fatty acid and of a saturated diacid ranges from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. Composition (C) according to any one of claims 1 to 4 wherein the fatty amine is a fatty amidoamine, preferably selected from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine and brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, more preferably stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.

6. Composition (C) according to any one of claims 1 to 5 wherein the total amount of fatty amine ranges from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better from 0.25 to 5% by weight, or even from 0.5 to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Composition (C) according to any one of claims 1 to 6 wherein the fatty ester is a fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol ester such that the alcohol contains at least 10 carbon atoms and the carboxylic acid contains 10 or fewer carbon atoms, more preferably coco caprylate / caprate (INCI name).

8. Composition (C) according to any one of claims 1 to 7 wherein the total amount of fatty ester(s) ranges from 0.05 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1 at 10% by weight, even better from 0.2 to 8% by weight, even better 0.2 to 5% by weight, or even 0.3 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. Composition (C) according to any one of claims 1 to 8 wherein the polyol is selected from glycerin, propylene glycol and dipropylene glycol, preferably glycerin.

10. Composition (C) according to any one of claims 1 to 9 wherein the total amount of polyol(s) ranges from 10 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 12 to 25% by weight, and better from 12 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. Composition (C) according to any one of claims 1 to 10 further comprising a vegetable protein hydrolysate, preferably derived from a protein selected from pea protein, soy protein, wheat protein, maize protein, rice protein, sweet almond protein, and mixtures thereof, more preferably a soy protein hydrolysate or a rice protein hydrolysate or a mixture of the two, even better a soy protein hydrolysate.

12. Composition (C) according to claim 11 wherein the total amount of vegetable protein hydrolysate(s) ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.08 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. Composition (C) according to any one of claims 1 to 12 further comprising one or more fatty alcohols, preferably a solid fatty alcohol, preferably selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof such as cetearyl alcohol, and more preferably cetyl alcohol.

14. Composition (C) according to claim 13 wherein the total amount of the fatty alcohol(s) ranges from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

15. Composition (C) according to any one of claims 1 to 14 wherein the weight ratio between the polyol(s) and the fatty ester(s) is greater than or equal to 1, preferably greater than or equal to 5, even better greater than or equal to 10.

16. Composition (C) according to any one of claims 1 to 15, which is free from silicones, cationic polymers and cationic surfactants other than fatty amines.

17. A cosmetic treatment process for keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising the application to said keratin fibers of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 16.

18. Processing method according to claim 17 wherein the keratin fibers are pre-washed with a shampoo, rinsed, and then optionally treated with a rinsed-off conditioner before the application of composition (C).

19. Processing method according to claim 17 or 18 wherein composition (C) is not rinsed after application.

20. Use of composition (C) according to any one of claims 1 to 16, for the treatment of keratin fibers, and more particularly for the repair and smoothing of hair.