W / H TYPE COMPOSITION COMPRISING INDEN RESIN
A composition with oils, waxes, and indene resin in a fatty phase with dispersed aqueous phases addresses the issue of transfer and discomfort in makeup products, providing a smooth, non-sticky, and long-lasting application on keratinous surfaces.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2024000602
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Utility models
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2024-01-22
- Publication Date
- 2026-02-13
- Estimated Expiration
- 2034-01-22
AI Technical Summary
Existing makeup products, such as lipsticks, often transfer easily to other substances and do not provide a comfortable, long-lasting application experience.
A composition comprising a continuous fatty phase with oils, waxes, and indene resin, along with dispersed aqueous phases, designed to limit transfer and enhance comfort and longevity on keratinous surfaces.
The composition provides a smooth glide, non-sticky feel, and long-lasting makeup effects while minimizing transfer to other surfaces, offering a comfortable and moisturizing experience.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: W / H TYPE COMPOSITION COMPRISING INDEN RESIN technical field
[0001] The present invention relates to a composition suitable for a keratinous substance, preferably a cosmetic composition, more preferably a makeup composition, and in particular a lipstick. STATE OF THE ART
[0002] In general, when a makeup product, especially a lip product such as lipstick or lip gloss, is used on a keratinous substance such as the lips, it is preferable that the makeup product provides, during and after use, a feeling of comfort and good makeup effects on the keratinous substance.
[0003] WO 2018 / 115328 discloses a lipstick in the form of a solid emulsion comprising a continuous oily phase and dispersed aqueous phases. This lipstick can provide a cooling sensation upon application and moisturize the lips. DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION
[0004] An objective of the present invention is to propose a composition that is capable of offering a feeling of comfort, with limited transfer of the composition from a keratinous substance, on which the composition has been applied, to another substance that touches the composition on the keratinous substance.
[0005] The above objective can be achieved by a composition comprising:
[0006] (a) a continuous fatty phase comprising
[0007] (a-1) at least one oil,
[0008] (a-2) at least one wax, and
[0009] (a-3) at least one indene resin;
[0010] and
[0011] (b) a plurality of dispersed aqueous phases comprising
[0012] (b-1) of water.
[0013] The (a-1) oil may include
[0014] (a-1-1) volatile oils, preferably volatile non-polar oils and more preferably, volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oils;
[0015] (a-1-2) non-volatile oils, preferably non-polar non-volatile oils, and more preferably non-polar, non-volatile hydrocarbon oils;
[0016] and
[0017] their mixtures.
[0018] The quantity of the (a-1) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 10% to 50% by weight, preferably from 15% to 45% by weight, and more preferably from 20% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0019] The (a-2) wax can be chosen from polar waxes, non-polar waxes and their mixtures, preferably chosen from polar ester waxes, non-polar hydrocarbon waxes and their mixtures.
[0020] The quantity of the (a-2) wax(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 5% to 30% by weight, preferably from 10% to 25% by weight, and more preferably from 15% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0021] The (a-3) indene resin can be selected from hydrogenated styrene / methylstyrene / indene copolymers.
[0022] The quantity of the (a-3) indene resin(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight and, more preferably, from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0023] The (a) oily phase may further comprise (a-4) at least one film-forming polymer.
[0024] The quantity of the (a-4) film-forming polymer(s) in the composition according to the the present invention can be from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 3% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0025] The (b) aqueous phase may further comprise (b-2) at least one hydrophilic thickener.
[0026] The quantity of (b-2) hydrophilic thickener in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0027] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (c) at least one coloring agent.
[0028] The composition according to the present invention may be a cosmetic composition, preferably a makeup composition and, more preferably, a lipstick composition.
[0029] A shear stress may have been applied to the composition at the crystallization temperature of the (a-2) wax, if the (a-2) wax is crystallizable. The crystallization temperature may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC).
[0030] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for applying a keratinous substance to the keratinous material, including the application step. ratineuse, of the composition according to the present invention.
[0031] The present invention also relates to a use of (a-3) at least one indene resin in a composition comprising:
[0032] (a) a continuous fatty phase comprising
[0033] (a-1) at least one oil, and
[0034] (a-2) at least one wax;
[0035] and
[0036] (b) a plurality of dispersed aqueous phases comprising
[0037] (b-1) of water,
[0038] in order to limit the transfer of the composition which has been applied to a keratinous substance such as lips to any other substance with which the composition is in contact. Best embodiment of the invention
[0039] After extensive research, the inventors discovered that it is possible to propose a composition capable of offering a feeling of comfort, with limited transfer of the composition from a keratinous substance, on which the composition has been applied, to another substance which touches the composition on the keratinous substance.
[0040] Thus, the composition according to the present invention is a composition comprising:
[0041] (a) a continuous fatty phase comprising
[0042] (a-1) at least one oil,
[0043] (a-2) at least one wax, and
[0044] (a-3) at least one indene resin;
[0045] and
[0046] (b) a plurality of dispersed aqueous phases comprising
[0047] (b-1) of water.
[0048] The composition according to the present invention can provide a feeling of comfort during and / or after use. For example, it can provide a smooth glide, a non-sticky feel, and a melting sensation.
[0049] Furthermore, the composition according to the present invention can limit the transfer of the composition from a keratinous substance, to which the composition has been applied, to another substance that comes into contact with the composition on the keratinous substance. For example, if the composition according to the present invention has any color, the transfer of color from a keratinous substance such as lips to any substance such as a cup can be limited or reduced. This means that the composition according to the present invention can provide long-lasting makeup effects. Thus, the composition according to the present invention can provide good makeup effects after use.
[0050] The composition according to the present invention is suitable for lipsticks.
[0051] Since the composition according to the present invention comprises (b-1) water, the composition according to the present invention can provide a feeling of freshness during use and moisturize a keratinous substance such as the lips.
[0052] The composition and process according to the present invention will each be described in detail below.
[0053] [Composition]
[0054] The composition according to the present invention is a composition comprising:
[0055] (a) a continuous or external fatty phase comprising
[0056] (a-1) at least one oil,
[0057] (a-2) at least one wax, and
[0058] (a-3) at least one indene resin;
[0059] and
[0060] (b) a plurality of dispersed, discontinuous or internal aqueous phases comprising
[0061] (b-1) of water.
[0062] In the composition according to the present invention, a plurality of (b) aqueous phases are dispersed in (a) oily phase. The (b) aqueous phases are discontinuous phases, while (a) oily phase is a continuous phase. This form will be referred to hereafter as "E / H type".
[0063] (Oil)
[0064] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a-1) at least one oil. If two (a-1) or more oils are used, they may be identical or different.
[0065] The (a-1) oil may be present in the (a) fatty phase of the composition according to the present invention.
[0066] Here, "oil" refers to a fatty compound or oily substance that is in the form of a liquid or a paste (not solid) at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (101,325 Pa). As oils, those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination with one another. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.
[0067] The (a-1) oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil or the like; a polar oil such as a vegetable or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.
[0068] The (a-1) oil may be chosen from the group consisting of oils of vegetable or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils and fatty alcohols.
[0069] Examples of vegetable oils include, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.
[0070] Examples of animal oils include, for example, squalene and squalane.
[0071] Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils and artificial triglycerides.
[0072] The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci-C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.
[0073] Preferably, for monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol and acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.
[0074] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, di-caprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isonanoate, isononyl isonanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.
[0075] Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and Ci-C22 alcohols, and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and non-sugar C4-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
[0076] Examples include: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; trii-socetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol dii-sononanoate.
[0077] Sugar esters and C6-C30 fatty acid diesters, and preferably C12-C22 esters, can be used as ester oils. It should be noted that the term "sugar" refers to oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon compounds containing several alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups, and comprising at least four carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.
[0078] Examples of suitable sugars that can be cited include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, Arabinose, xylose and lactose, and their derivatives, including alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.
[0079] Sugar esters of fatty acids may be selected in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of sugar esters described above and fatty acids in the C6-C30, and preferably in the C2-C22 linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated range. If unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0080] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
[0081] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.
[0082] More particularly, monoesters and diesters are used, and in particular monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.
[0083] An example that can be cited is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.
[0084] By way of examples of preferred ester oils, one may cite, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyle propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, coco-caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, palmitate ethylhexyl, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.
[0085] Examples of artificial triglycerides include, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate) and glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate / linolenate).
[0086] Examples of silicone oils include, for instance, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, etc.; and cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, etc. dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane etc.; and mixtures thereof.
[0087] Preferably, the silicone oil is chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.
[0088] These silicone oils can also be organo-modified. The organo-modified silicones that can be used for the present invention are silicone oils as defined above and comprise in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon group.
[0089] Organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in Walter Noll's Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academy Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.
[0090] If they are volatile, silicones are particularly chosen from those having a boiling point between 60 °C and 260 °C, and even more particularly from:
[0091] (i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These include, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia; decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide and Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia; and dodecam ethylcyclopentasiloxane, sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof. Also noteworthy are cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109, sold by Union Carbide, with the formula: ।—■ D'1 ■— D' D" — ü' —। CH, 1 CH, r LC ' Sj O and SVCÇ 0l u CSï 'O CH... ■2 v '
[0092] Other examples include mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,r-bis(2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane; and
[0093] (ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5 x 10⁶ m² / s at 25 °C. An example is deca-methyltetrasiloxane, sold in particular under the name SH 200 by Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of silicones is measured at 25 °C according to ASTM 445 Annex C.
[0094] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes can also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from among the polydialkylsiloxanes, among which the main examples are polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl terminal groups.
[0095] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following commercial products may be cited, without limitation:
[0096] - Silbione® oils from ranges 47 and 70 047 or Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia, for example oil 70 047 V 500 000;
[0097] - the oils from the Mirasil® range sold by the company Rhodia;
[0098] - oils from the 200 series of Dow Corning, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60,000 mmVs; and
[0099] - Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils from the SF range (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.
[0100] We can also mention polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol terminal groups known as dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils in the 48 range from the Rhodia company.
[0101] Among silicones containing aryl groups, we can mention polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as phenyl silicone oil.
[0102] The phenyl silicone oil may be selected from phenyl silicones of the following formula:
[0103] in which
[0104] Ri at Rio are, independently of each other, hydrocarbon-based radicals in Ci-C30, preferably hydrocarbon-based radicals in CrCi2, and more preferably saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched Ci-C6 hydrocarbon-based radicals, in particular methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl radicals, and
[0105] m, n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers from 0 to 900 inclusive, preferably from 0 to 500 inclusive, and more preferably from 0 to 100 inclusive,
[0106] provided that the sum n+m+q is not 0.
[0107] The products sold under the following names are examples that can be cited:
[0108] - Silbione® oils from the 70 641 range of Rhodia;
[0109] - the oils from the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 ranges from Rhodia;
[0110] - Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid oil from Dow Corning;
[0111] - silicones from Bayer's PK range, such as product PK20;
[0112] - certain oils from the General Electric SF range, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.
[0113] As a phenyl silicone oil, phenyl trimethicone (Ri to R10 are a methyl;p, qetn = 0;m=l in the formula above) is preferable.
[0114] Organomodified liquid silicones may, in particular, contain polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups. Examples include KF-6017 silicone offered by Shin-Etsu, and Silwet® L722 and L77 oils from Union Carbide.
[0115] Hydrocarbon oils may be selected from:
[0116] - lower C6-Ci6 alkanes, linear or branched, possibly cyclic. Examples that can be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for example isohexadecane, isododecane, and isodecane; and
[0117] - linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, hydrogenated polydecenes and polyisobutenes such as Parleam® and squalane.
[0118] Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils may be cited, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (for example, liquid paraffin), paraffin, Vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane and decene / butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.
[0119] The term "fatty" in fatty alcohol means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols that have 4 or more carbon atoms, preferably 6 or more, and more preferably 12 or more, are encompassed within the scope of fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohols can be saturated or unsaturated. Fatty alcohols can be linear or branched.
[0120] The fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH in which R is selected from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R may be selected from alkyl groups in the form C2-C2O and alkenyl groups in the form C2-C2O. R may or may not be substituted by at least one hydroxyl group.
[0121] Examples of fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, lino- Leyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonylic alcohol, erucyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.
[0122] It is preferable that the fatty alcohol be a saturated fatty alcohol.
[0123] Thus, the fatty alcohol can be chosen from saturated or unsaturated C6-C30 alcohols, linear or branched, preferably from saturated C6-C30 alcohols, linear or branched, and more preferably from saturated Ci2-C2o alcohols, linear or branched.
[0124] The term "saturated fatty alcohol" here refers to an alcohol having a long saturated aliphatic carbon chain. Preferably, the saturated fatty alcohol should be chosen from any saturated C6-C30 fatty alcohols, linear or branched. Among saturated C6-C30 fatty alcohols, linear or branched, saturated C2-C20 fatty alcohols, linear or branched, may preferably be used. Any saturated C6-C20 fatty alcohols, linear or branched, may be used more preferably. Branched C6-C20 fatty alcohols may be used even more preferably.
[0125] Examples of saturated fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, or mixtures thereof (e.g., cetearyl alcohol), as well as behenyl alcohol, may be used as saturated fatty alcohols.
[0126] According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohol used in the composition according to the present invention is preferably chosen from cetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol and mixtures thereof.
[0127] It is also preferable to choose the (a-1) oil from oils with a molecular weight of less than 600 g / mol.
[0128] Preferably, the (a-1) oil has a low molecular weight such as less than 600 g / mol, selected from ester oils with a short hydrocarbon chain or chains (CrCi2) (e.g., isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isononyl isononanoate and ethyl hexyl palmitate), silicone oils (e.g., volatile silicones such as cyclohexasiloxane), hydrocarbon oils (e.g., isododecane, isohexadecane and squalane), branched and / or unsaturated fatty alcohol type oils (Ci2-C30) such as octyldodecanol and oleyl alcohol, and ether oils such as dicaprylyl ether.
[0129] It is preferable that the (a-1) oil be chosen from volatile oils, non-volatile oils, and mixtures thereof.
[0130] In one embodiment, the (a-1) oil can be chosen from:
[0131] (a-1-1) volatile oils, preferably volatile non-polar oils and more preferably, volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oils, such as isododecane and isohexadecane;
[0132] (a-1-2) non-volatile oils, preferably non-polar non-volatile oils, and more preferably non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, such as hydrogenated polyisobutene;
[0133] and
[0134] their mixtures.
[0135] The quantity of the (a-1) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or more, preferably 20% by weight or more, and more preferably 25% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0136] The quantity of the (a-1) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 45% by weight or less, preferably 40% by weight or less and, more preferably 35% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0137] The quantity of the (a-1) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 15% to 45% by weight, preferably from 20% to 40% by weight and, even better, from 25% to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0138] It may be preferable for the composition according to the present invention to comprise a limited amount of silicone oil such as less than 5% by weight or less, less than 3% by weight or less, and less than 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition. It may be even more preferable for the composition according to the present invention to comprise no silicone oil at all.
[0139] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of silicone oil. In other words, it may be particularly preferable for the composition according to the present invention not to contain silicone oil.
[0140] (Wax)
[0141] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a-2) at least one wax. If two (a-2) or more waxes are used, they may be identical or different.
[0142] The (a-2) wax may be present in the (a) fatty phase of the composition according to the present invention.
[0143] The term “wax” is understood, for the purposes of the present invention, as a lipophilic compound, which is solid at room temperature (25 °C), with a reversible solid / liquid change of state, and which has a melting point greater than or equal to 30 °C.
[0144] The melting point of the wax here refers to a temperature at which all the wax is melted.
[0145] The (a-2) wax can be selected from polar waxes, non-polar waxes and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from polar ester waxes, non-polar hydrocarbon waxes and mixtures thereof.
[0146] The quantity of the (a-2) wax(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be greater than or equal to 12% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 13% by weight, and, more preferably, greater than or equal to 14% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0147] The quantity of the (a-2) wax(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 30% by weight or less, preferably 25% by weight or less, and more preferably 20% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0148] The quantity of the (a-2) wax(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 12% to 30% by weight, preferably from 13% to 25% by weight, and more preferably from 14% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0149] Non-polar wax:
[0150] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises (a-2-1) at least one non-polar wax. If two or more (a-2-1) non-polar waxes are used, they may be identical or different.
[0151] The (a-2-1) non-polar wax may be present in the (a) fatty phase of the composition according to the present invention.
[0152] The (a-2-1) non-polar wax may have a melting point of 35 °C to 130 °C, preferably of 40 °C to 125 °C, and more preferably of 45 °C to 120 °C.
[0153] Nonpolar (α-2-1) wax can be crystalline and, therefore, nonpolar (α-2-1) wax can form crystals at a crystallization temperature. Thus, the crystallization of nonpolar (α-2-1) wax can begin at the crystallization temperature. The crystallization temperature can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example, the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the Mettler company.
[0154] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "non-polar" wax means a wax for which the solubility parameter ôa at 25 °C as defined below is equal to 0 (J / cm3)1^.
[0155] The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in the three-dimensional solubility space of Hansen are described in the article by C.M. Hansen: “The three-dimensional solubility parameters”, J. Paint Technol., 39, 105 (1967).
[0156] According to this Hansen space:
[0157] - ôD characterizes the London dispersion forces derived from the formation of induced dipoles during molecular impacts;
[0158] - ôh characterizes the Debye interaction forces between permanent dipoles as well as Keesom interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles;
[0159] - ôh characterizes the specific interaction forces (such as acid / base bonds, donor / acceptor, hydrogen, etc.) and
[0160] - ôa is determined by the equation: ôa = (ôp2 + 0^)½.
[0161] The parameters ôp, ôh, ôD and ôa are expressed in (J / cm3)1^.
[0162] The (a-2-1) non-polar wax may be of vegetable, mineral, animal or synthetic origin.
[0163] The (a-2-1) nonpolar wax can, in particular, be selected from hydrocarbon waxes composed solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms and devoid of heteroatoms, such as N, O, Si and P.
[0164] Examples of (a-2-1) nonpolar wax include hydrocarbon waxes, for example polyolefin waxes, such as polyethylene wax and polypropylene wax, microcrystalline waxes, synthetic wax, paraffin waxes and ozokerite.
[0165] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one polyethylene wax. Polyethylene waxes that may be mentioned include Asensa® SC 211 sold by Honeywell, and Performalene 500-L Polyethylene and Performalene 400 Polyethylene sold by New Phase Technologies.
[0166] Polyethylene wax can be in powder form. Examples of such powdered wax include polyethylene microwaxes such as those sold under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by Micro Powders.
[0167] According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one microcrystalline wax. Examples of microcrystalline waxes that may be used include Multiwax W 445® sold by Sonneborn, Micro wax HW® and Base Wax 30540® sold by Paramelt.
[0168] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one synthetic wax. The synthetic wax can be obtained by a Fischer-Tropsch process. Thus, the synthetic wax can be a Fischer-Tropsch wax. As an example of a synthetic wax, CireWax 90 from DKSH Japan may be cited.
[0169] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one paraffin wax. Typically, the paraffin wax is composed of C16-C40 hydrocarbons, preferably linear C16-C4O hydrocarbons, and more preferably, linear C2O-C4O hydrocarbons. The molecular weight of the paraffin wax may be between 300 and 550.
[0170] As an example of ozokerite, one can cite that sold under the name Ozokerite Wax Pastilles SP 1021 P.
[0171] It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention comprise
[0172] (a-2-1-1) at least one non-polar wax having a melting point of 85 °C or higher, and
[0173] (a-2-1-2) at least one non-polar wax having a melting point below 85 °C.
[0174] The (a-2-1-1) non-polar wax having a melting point of 85 °C or more may be selected from non-polar hydrocarbon waxes, preferably polyolefin waxes and more preferably polyethylene wax, microcrystalline wax, synthetic wax and a mixture thereof.
[0175] The (a-2-1-2) non-polar wax having a melting point below 85 °C may be selected from non-polar hydrocarbon waxes, preferably polyolefin waxes, and more preferably paraffin wax, ozokerite, and one of their mixtures.
[0176] The quantity of the (a-2-1) non-polar wax(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 6% by weight or more, preferably 8% by weight or more, and more preferably 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0177] The quantity of the (a-2-1) non-polar wax(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 17% by weight or less, preferably 16% by weight or less, and more preferably 15% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0178] The quantity of the (a-2-1) non-polar wax(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be between 6% and 17% by weight, preferably between 8% and 16% by weight, and more preferably between 10% and 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0179] The weight ratio of the quantity of the (a-2-1-1) non-polar wax(s) having a melting point of 85 °C or more / the total quantity of the (a-2-1-1) non-polar wax(s) having a melting point of 85 °C or more, of the (a-2-1-2) non-polar wax(s) having a melting point below 85 °C, and of the (a-2-2) polar wax(s) explained below in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.4 or more, preferably 0.5 or more, and more preferably 0.6 or more.
[0180] Polar wax:
[0181] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention also comprises (a-2-2) at least one polar wax. If two or more (a-2-2) polar waxes are used, they may be identical or different.
[0182] The (a-2-2) polar wax may be present in the (a) fatty phase of the composition according to the present invention.
[0183] In particular, the (a-2-2) polar wax may have a melting point of 50 °C to 120 °C, preferably of 60 °C to 110 °C and more preferably of 70 °C to 100 °C.
[0184] Polar (α-2-2) wax can be crystalline and, therefore, polar (α-2-2) wax can form crystals at a crystallization temperature. Thus, the crystallization of polar (α-2-2) wax can begin at the crystallization temperature. The temperature The crystallization temperature can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the Mettler company.
[0185] The (a-2-2) polar wax can be of vegetable, mineral, animal or synthetic origin.
[0186] It is preferable that the (a-2-2) polar wax has a chemical structure formed essentially from, or even composed of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and comprising at least one highly electronegative heteroatom such as an oxygen, nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus atom.
[0187] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polar wax" means a wax for which the solubility parameter ôa at 25 °C is anything other than 0 (J / cm3)1^.
[0188] The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in the three-dimensional solubility space of Hansen are described in the article by C.M. Hansen: “The three-dimensional solubility parameters”, J. Paint Technol., 39, 105 (1967).
[0189] According to this Hansen space:
[0190] - ôD characterizes the London dispersion forces derived from the formation of induced dipoles during molecular impacts;
[0191] - ôh characterizes the Debye interaction forces between permanent dipoles as well as Keesom interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles;
[0192] - ôh characterizes the specific interaction forces (such as acid / base bonds, donor / acceptor, hydrogen, etc.) and
[0193] - ôa is determined by the equation: ôa = (ôp2 + 0^)½.
[0194] The parameters ôp, ôh, ôD and ôa are expressed in (J / cm3)1^.
[0195] Polar (a-2-2) waxes may include hydrocarbon waxes, fluorinated waxes, or silicone waxes. The term "hydrocarbon wax" means a wax formed essentially, or even composed, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally of oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and containing no silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine, and / or amide groups. The term "fluorinated wax" means a wax comprising at least one fluorine atom, in particular comprising at least one perfluoro group. The term "silicone wax" means a wax containing at least one silicon atom, in particular comprising Si-O groups.
[0196] According to a preferred embodiment, the (a-2-2) polar wax is a hydrocarbon wax.
[0197] As a polar hydrocarbon wax, a wax selected from ester waxes and alcohol waxes is particularly preferred.
[0198] The expression "ester wax" is understood according to the present invention as a wax comprising at least one ester functional group.
[0199] According to the present invention, the term "alcohol wax" refers to a wax comprising at least one alcohol functional group, that is to say including at least one free hydroxyl group (OH).
[0200] The following elements can be used in particular as ester wax:
[0201] - ester waxes such as those selected from:
[0202] i) Waxes of the formula RiCOOR2, in which Ri and R2 represent linear, branched, or cyclic aliphatic chains, the number of atoms of which varies from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom such as O, N, or P, and whose melting point varies from 25 °C to 120 °C. In particular, an alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate in C2o-C4o (the alkyl group comprising 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture, or an alkyl stearate in C2o-C4O, may be used as an ester wax. Such waxes are sold, in particular, under the names Kester Wax K 82 P®, Hydropolyester K 82 P®, Kester Wax K 80 P®, and Kester Wax K 82 P® by the company Koster Keunen.
[0203] A glycol and butylene glycol montanate (octacosanoate) such as Licowax KPS Flakes wax (INCI name: Glycol Montanate) sold by Clariant can also be used.
[0204] ii) bis(l,l,l-trimethylolpropane tetrastearate), sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company Heterene.
[0205] iii) Diester waxes of a dicarboxylic acid of general formula R3-(-OCO-R4-COO-R5), wherein R3 and R5 are identical or different, preferably identical, and represent a C4-C30 alkyl group (alkyl group comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms) and R4 represents a linear or branched C4-C30 aliphatic group (alkyl group comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms), which may or may not contain one or more unsaturated groups. Preferably, the C4-C30 aliphatic group is linear and unsaturated.
[0206] iv) Other examples include waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched C8-C32 fatty acid chains, for example, hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, and also waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax Ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company Sophim. Such waxes are described in application FR-A-2 792 190. Examples of waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol include those sold under the name Phytowax Olive 18 L 57.
[0207] (v) Other examples include beeswax, synthetic beeswax, polyglycerol beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, oxypropylene lanolin wax, rice bran wax, ursinum wax, esparto grass wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax, sumac wax, lignite wax, orange wax, laurel wax and hydrogenated jojoba wax.
[0208] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises a polar wax derived from plants, such as jojoba esters, sunflower seed wax and acacia decurrens flower wax.
[0209] According to another embodiment, the (a-2-2) polar wax can be an alcohol wax.
[0210] Alcohol waxes that may be cited include, for example, Performacol 550-L Alcohol Wax from New Phase Technologies, stearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol.
[0211] The (a-2-2) polar wax may be a silicone wax, for example, silicone-coated beeswax. However, according to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention is devoid of any silicone wax.
[0212] In particular, the (a-2-2) polar wax may be selected from polar ester waxes, preferably polar ester waxes derived from plants and more preferably, jojoba esters, sunflower seed wax, acacia decurrens flower wax and a mixture thereof.
[0213] The quantity of the (a-2-2) polar wax(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more and, more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0214] The quantity of the (a-2-2) polar wax(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be less than 7% by weight, preferably less than 6% by weight, and more preferably less than 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0215] The quantity of the polar wax(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to less than 7% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to less than 6% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to less than 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0216] (Indene resin)
[0217] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a-3) at least one indene resin. If two or more (a-3) indene resins are used, they may be identical or different.
[0218] (a-3) indene resin may be present in the (a) oily phase.
[0219] (α-3) indene resin can function as a lipophilic thickener.
[0220] According to the present invention, the "hydrophilic thickener" can increase the viscosity of the (a) oil phase into which it is introduced by at least 20 cps, preferably by at least 50 cps, at room temperature (25 °C), at atmospheric pressure and at a shear rate of 1 s 1 (the viscosity can be measured using a cone / plate viscometer, a Haake R600 rheometer or similar).
[0221] Preferably, the hydrocarbon-based resin has an average molecular weight in number less than or equal to 10,000 g / mol, in particular ranging from 250 to 5,000 g / mol and better still, less than or equal to 2,000 g / mol and in particular ranging from 250 to 2,000 g / mol.
[0222] The number-average molecular weights (Mn) are determined by gel permeation liquid chromatography (THF solvent, calibration curve established with linear polystyrene standards, refractometric detector).
[0223] (α-3) indene resin means resins derived, at least, from indene. (α-3) indene resin may be a homopolymer of indene, or a copolymer of indene and any other optional comonomer. Preferably, the comonomer should be chosen from polymerizable hydrocarbons, preferably hydrocarbons having at least one carbon-carbon double bond.
[0224] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polymer" means a compound consisting of the repetition of one or more motifs (these motifs being derived from compounds called monomers). This motif or these motifs are repeated at least twice and, preferably, at least three times.
[0225] The (a-3) indene resin can be selected from hydrocarbon-based indene resins.
[0226] Hydrocarbon-based indene resins can be derived from the polymerization of a large portion of an indene monomer and a smaller portion of a hydrocarbon-based monomer, which can be selected from styrene, methylindene, and methylstyrene, and mixtures thereof. These resins may optionally be hydrogenated. These resins can have a molecular weight ranging from 290 to 1150 g / mol. Examples of indene resins that can be mentioned include resins sold under the names Escorez 7105 by Exxon Chem., Nevchem 100 and Nevex 100 by Neville Chem., Norsolene S105 by Sartomer, Picco 6100 by Hercules and Resinall by Resinall Corp., or hydrogenated styrene / methylstyrene / indene copolymers sold under the name "Regalite" by Eastman Chemical, in particular Regalite RI 100, Regalite R1090, Regalite R7100, Regalite R1010 Hydrocarbon Resin and Regalite RI 125 Hydrocarbon Resin;
[0227] According to a preferred embodiment, the resin is selected from hydrogenated styrene / methylstyrene / indene copolymers, i.e. hydrogenated copolymers of styrene, methylstyrene and indene.
[0228] In particular, hydrogenated styrene / methylstyrene / indene copolymers can be used, such as those sold under the name Regalite by Eastman Chemical, such as Regalite RI 100, Regalite R1090, Regalite R7100, Regalite R1010 Hydrocarbon Resin and Regalite RI 125 Hydrocarbon Resin.
[0229] The amount of (a-3) indene resin(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or plus and, more preferably, 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0230] The quantity of the (a-3) indene resin(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less and, more preferably, 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0231] The quantity of the (a-3) indene resin(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0232] (Film-forming polymer)
[0233] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (a-4) at least one film-forming polymer. If two or more (a-4) film-forming polymers are used, they may be identical or different.
[0234] The (a-4) film-forming polymer is different from the (a-3) indene resin.
[0235] The (a-4) film-forming polymer may be lipophilic and may be present in the (a) phase fat.
[0236] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polymer" means a compound consisting of the repetition of one or more motifs (these motifs being derived from compounds called monomers). This motif or these motifs are repeated at least twice and, preferably, at least three times.
[0237] The term “film-forming polymer” means a polymer capable of forming, alone or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a macroscopically continuous film that adheres to a support, in particular to keratinous materials, preferably a cohesive film and, even better, a film whose cohesion and mechanical properties are such that said film can be isolated and handled in isolation, for example, when said film is prepared by pouring onto a non-adhesive surface, for example, a surface coated with Teflon or coated with silicone.
[0238] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the (a-4) film-forming polymer can be selected from the group comprising:
[0239] - film-forming polymers that are soluble in an organic solvent medium, in in particular liposoluble polymers; this means that the polymer is soluble or miscible in the organic medium and will form a single homogeneous phase when incorporated into the medium;
[0240] - film-forming polymers that are dispersible in an organic solvent medium; This means that the polymer forms an insoluble phase in the organic medium, remaining stable and / or compatible once incorporated into that medium. In particular, these polymers can be in the form of non-aqueous dispersions. of polymer particles, preferably dispersions in silicone-based oils or hydrocarbons; in one embodiment, the non-aqueous polymer dispersions comprise polymer particles stabilized on their surface with at least one stabilizer; these non-aqueous dispersions are often called "NAD"; and
[0241] - film-forming polymers in the form of aqueous dispersions of particles Polymers; this means that the polymer forms a phase insoluble in water, remaining stable and / or compatible once incorporated into water. The polymer particles can be stabilized on their surface with at least one stabilizer. These polymer particles are often called "matrices"; in this case, the composition must include an aqueous phase.
[0242] Preferably, the (a-4) film-forming polymer is selected from the group consisting of polyamide-silicone block polymers, ethylenic block polymers, vinyl polymers comprising at least one carboxiloxane dendrimer derivative, copolymers comprising carboxylate groups and polydimethylsiloxane groups, silicone resins, lipodispersible polymers in the form of a non-aqueous dispersion of polymer particles, olefin copolymers selected from amorphous olefin copolymers and olefin copolymers with controlled and moderate crystallization, hydrocarbon-based resins having a number-average molecular weight less than or equal to 10,000 g / ml, and a mixture thereof, more preferably from silicone resins.
[0243] The (a-4) film-forming polymer can be any silicone resin having film-forming properties.
[0244] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the (a-4) film-forming polymer can be selected from silsesquioxane, siloxysilicate and a resin obtained by hydroxysilylation.
[0245] The nomenclature for silicone resin is known in the art as the "MDTQ" nomenclature, whereby a silicone resin is described according to the different fractions of repeating siloxane monomers that constitute the polymer. Each letter of "MDTQ" corresponds to a different type of fraction.
[0246] The symbol “M” corresponds to the monofunctional fraction (CH3)3SiO2 / 2. This fraction is considered monofunctional because the silicon atom shares only one oxygen atom for chain formation. The “M” fraction can be represented by the following structure:
[0247]
[0248]
[0249] At least one of the methyl groups can be replaced in such a way as, for example, to produce a fraction with the following formula: [R(CH3)2] SiOi / 2, as represented by the following structure: where R is other than a methyl group. The symbol "D" corresponds to the difunctional fraction (CH3)SiO2 / 2 in which two of the available bonds on the silicon atom are used to bind to oxygen for the formation of the polymer chain. The "D" fraction, which is the essential component of dimethicone oils, can be represented by the following formula:
[0250] The symbol "T" corresponds to the trifunctional fraction (CH3)SiO3 / 2, in which three of the available bonds on the silicon atom are used to bond with oxygen for the formation of the polymer chain. The "T" fraction can be represented by the following structure:
[0251]
[0252] As in fraction "M", any of the methyl groups can be replaced in "D" or "T" by an R group other than methyl. Finally, the symbol "Q" corresponds to a tetrafunctional SiO4 / 2 fraction, where the four available bonds on the silicon atom are used to bond with oxygen for the formation of the polymer chain. The "Q" fraction can be represented by the following structure: X
[0253] As described above, in one embodiment of the present invention, the (a-4) The film-forming polymer may be selected from siloxysilicate, silsesquioxane, and a resin obtained by hydroxysilylation. Any siloxysilicate, silsesquioxane, or resin obtained by hydroxysilylation that acts as a film-forming polymer may be used in the composition of the present invention. Preferably, the (a-4) film-forming polymer, such as a silicone resin, is crosslinked.
[0254] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the (a-4) film-forming polymer can be selected from substituted siloxysilicate, silsesquioxane, and a substituted resin obtained by hydroxysilylation. A substituted siloxysilicate or substituted silsesquioxane can be, for example, a siloxysilicate or silsesquioxane in which a methyl group has been replaced by a longer carbon chain, such as an ethane, propane, or butane chain. The carbon chain can be saturated or unsaturated.
[0255] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the (a-4) film-forming polymer can be selected from siloxysilicate, such as MQ resins represented by the following formula:
[0256] [(CH3)3SiOi / 2]x(SiO4 / 2)y (MQ fractions)
[0257] where x and y can have values ranging from 20 to 100, preferably from 50 to 80.
[0258] According to another embodiment of the present invention, a siloxysilicate can be chosen from all combinations of fractions of M and Q such as, for example, [(R)3Si]x(SiO4 / 2)y, where R is chosen from a methyl group and a longer carbon chain.
[0259] According to another embodiment of the present invention, the (a-4) film-forming polymer can be selected from silsesquioxane represented by the following formula:
[0260] (CH3SiO3 / 2)x (fractions T),
[0261] where x has a value that can go up to several thousand and CH3 can be replaced by an R, as described above for fractions T.
[0262] Preferably, the (a-4) film-forming polymer is trimethylsiloxysilicate, for example, sold by Momentive Performance Materials under the name SR 1000 MQ Resin.
[0263] The quantity of the (a-4) film-forming polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 3% by weight or more, and more preferably 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0264] The quantity of the (a-4) film-forming polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less and, more preferably, 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0265] The quantity of the (a-4) film-forming polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 3% to 15% by weight. weight and, more preferably, 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0266] (Water)
[0267] The composition according to the present invention comprises (b-1) water.
[0268] The (b-1) water may be present in the (b) aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention.
[0269] The quantity of (b-1) water in the composition according to the present invention may be greater than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 10% by weight and more preferably greater than or equal to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0270] The quantity of (b-1) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 35% by weight or less, preferably 30% by weight or less, and more preferably 25% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0271] The quantity of (b-1) water in the composition according to the present invention can be from 5% to 35% by weight, preferably from 10% to 30% by weight, and more preferably from 15% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0272] (Hydrophilic thickener)
[0273] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (b-2) at least one hydrophilic thickener. If two or more (b-2) hydrophilic thickeners are used, they may be identical or different.
[0274] The (b-2) hydrophilic thickener may be present in the (b) aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention.
[0275] According to the present invention, the "hydrophilic thickener" can increase the viscosity of the (b) aqueous phase into which it is introduced by at least 20 cps, preferably by at least 50 cps, at room temperature (25 °C), at atmospheric pressure and at a shear rate of 1 s⁻¹ (the viscosity can be measured using a cone / plate viscometer, a Haake R600 rheometer or similar).
[0276] The (b-2) hydrophilic thickener(s) is / are preferably chosen from non-associative thickening polymers bearing sugar motifs, non-associative thickening polymers without sugar motifs, associative thickening polymers, and mixtures of these compounds.
[0277] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "sugar motif" means an oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon compound containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and comprising at least 4 carbon atoms.
[0278] The sugar motifs may optionally be modified by substitution, and / or by oxidation and / or by dehydration.
[0279] The sugar motifs that can be included in the composition of the hydrophilic thickening polymers of the present invention are preferably derived from a or several of the following sugars: glucose, galactose, arabinose, rhamnose, mannose, xylose, fucose, anhydrogalactose, galacturonic acid, glucuronic acid, mannuronic acid, galactose sulfate, anhydrogalactose sulfate and fructose.
[0280] Examples of non-associative thickening polymer include hyaluronic acid and its salts, such as sodium hyaluronate.
[0281] Non-associative thickening polymers bearing sugar motifs, which may be cited in particular, include native gums such as:
[0282] a) tree or shrub exudates, including:
[0283] - gum arabic (a branched polymer of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and of glucuronic acid);
[0284] - Ghatti gum (polymer derived from arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose) and glucuronic acid);
[0285] - karaya gum (polymer derived from galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid);
[0286] - tragacanth gum (polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, of xylose and arabinose);
[0287] b) gums derived from algae, including:
[0288] - agar-agar (polymer derived from galactose and anhydrogalactose);
[0289] - alginates (polymers of mannuronic acid and glucuronic acid);
[0290] - carrageenans and furcelleranes (polymers of galactose sulfate and sulfate) of anhydrogalactose);
[0291] c) gums derived from seeds or tubers, including:
[0292] - guar gum (polymer of mannose and galactose);
[0293] - carob gum (polymer of mannose and galactose);
[0294] - fenugreek gum (polymer of mannose and galactose);
[0295] - tamarind gum (polymer of galactose, xylose and glucose);
[0296] - konjac gum (polymer of glucose and mannose);
[0297] d) microbial gums, including:
[0298] - xanthan gum (polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose / pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid);
[0299] - gellan gum (a partially acylated glucose polymer, rhamnose and of glucuronic acid);
[0300] - scleroglucan gum (glucose polymer);
[0301] e) plant extracts, including:
[0302] - cellulose (glucose polymer);
[0303] - starch (glucose polymer); and
[0304] - inulin.
[0305] These polymers can be modified physically or chemically. As Physical treatment, in particular temperature, can be mentioned.
[0306] The chemical treatments that can be cited include esterification, etherification, amidation and oxidation reactions. These treatments can lead to polymers that may be nonionic, anionic or amphoteric, in particular.
[0307] Preferably, these chemical or physical treatments are applied to guar gums, locust bean gums, starches and celluloses.
[0308] Non-ionic guar gums that can be used according to the present invention can be modified by (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups in Ci-C6.
[0309] Among the (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups in Ci-C6, examples include hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.
[0310] These guar gums are well known in the prior art and can be prepared, for example, by reacting the corresponding alkene oxides, for example, propylene oxides, with guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum modified by hydroxypropyl groups.
[0311] The degree of hydroxyalkylation preferably varies from 0.4 to 1.2 and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functional groups present on the guar gum.
[0312] Such non-ionic guar gums optionally modified by hydroxyalkyl groups are sold, for example, under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60 and Jaguar HP120 by the company Rhodia Chimie.
[0313] The botanical origin of the starch molecules that can be used in the present invention may be cereals or tubers. Thus, the starches are chosen, for example, from maize starch, rice starch, cassava starch, barley starch, potato starch, wheat starch, sorghum starch and pea starch.
[0314] Starches can be modified chemically or physically, in particular by one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, etherification, amidation and heat treatment.
[0315] Distarch phosphates or compounds rich in distarch phosphate will be used preferentially, for example the product sold under the names Prejel VA-70-T AGGL (gelatinized cassava hydroxypropyl distarch phosphate), Prejel TK1 (gelatinized cassava distarch phosphate) and Prejel 200 (gelatinized cassava acetyl distarch phosphate) by the Avebe company, or Structure Zea from National Starch (gelatinized maize distarch phosphate).
[0316] According to the present invention, amphoteric starches can also be used, these amphoteric starches comprising one or more anionic groups and one or more cationic groups. The anionic and cationic groups may be linked to the same reactive site of the starch molecule or to different reactive sites; they are of Preference is given to groups linked to the same reactive site. Anionic groups can be carboxylic, phosphate, or sulfate, preferentially carboxylic. Cationic groups can be primary, secondary, tertiary, or quaternary amines.
[0317] Starch molecules can be derived from any plant source of starch, in particular maize, potato, oats, rice, tapioca, sorghum, barley, or wheat. Hydrolysates of the starches mentioned above may also be used. The starch is preferably derived from potato.
[0318] The non-associative thickening polymers of the present invention may be cellulose-based polymers not comprising a Cio-C3o fatty chain in their structure.
[0319] According to the present invention, the expression "cellulose-based polymer" means any polysaccharide compound having in its structure sequences of glucose residues linked together via [3-1,4] bonds; in addition to unsubstituted celluloses, cellulose derivatives can be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic.
[0320] Thus, the cellulose polymers that can be used according to the present invention can be chosen from unsubstituted celluloses, in particular those in microcrystalline form, and cellulose ethers.
[0321] Among these cellulose-based polymers, cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ester ethers are distinguished.
[0322] Cellulose esters include mineral cellulose esters (cellulose nitrates, sulfates, phosphates, etc.), organic cellulose esters (cellulose monoacetates, triacetates, amidopropionates, acetobutyrates, acetopropionates and acetotrimellitates, etc.), and mixed organic / mineral cellulose esters, such as cellulose acetobutyrate sulfates and cellulose acetopropionate sulfates. Examples of cellulose ester ethers include hydroxypropylmethylcellulose phthalates and ethylcellulose sulfates.
[0323] Among the non-ionic cellulose ethers without a C10-C30 fatty chain, i.e., which are non-associative, we can mention (CrC4) alkylcelluloses such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (for example, Ethocel Standard 100 Premium from Dow Chemical); (poly)hydroxy(C10-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses (for example, Natrosol 250 HHR supplied by Aqualon) and hydroxypropylcelluloses (for example, Klucel EF from Aqualon); mixed (poly)hydroxy(C10-C4)alkyl-(C10-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses (for example, Methocel E4M from Dow Chemical); hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses (e.g., Akzo Nobel's Bermocoll E 481 FQ) and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses.
[0324] Among the anionic cellulose ethers without a fat chain, (poly)carboxy(Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses and their salts may be mentioned. By way of example, the carboxymethylcelluloses, carboxymethylmethylcelluloses (e.g. Blanose 7M from Aqualon) and carboxymethylhydroxyethylcelluloses, and their sodium salts.
[0325] Among cationic cellulose ethers without a fat chain, cationic cellulose derivatives such as cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and described in particular in US patent 4,131,576, may be cited, such as (poly)hydroxy(Ci-C4)alkyl celluloses, for example, hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl-, or hydroxypropyl-celluloses grafted in particular with a salt of methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium, or dimethyldiallylammonium. Commercial products corresponding to this definition are, more particularly, those sold under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by National Starch.
[0326] Among the non-associative thickening polymers not bearing sugar motifs that can be used according to the present invention, we may mention crosslinked acrylic acid or methacrylic acid homopolymers or copolymers, crosslinked 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymers and their crosslinked acrylamide copolymers, ammonium acrylate homopolymers, or ammonium acrylate and acrylamide copolymers, alone or in mixtures.
[0327] A first family of non-associative thickening polymers which is suitable for use is represented by crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers.
[0328] Among the homopolymers of this type, we can cite those crosslinked with an allylic alcohol ether from the sugar range, for example, the products sold under the names Carbopol 980, 981, 954, 2984 and 5984 by the company Noveon or the products sold under the names Synthalen M and Synthalen K by the company 3 VS A. These polymers bear the INCI name Carbomer.
[0329] Non-associative thickening polymers can also be crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid copolymers, such as the polymer sold under the name Aqua SF1 by the company Noveon.
[0330] In addition, as a (b-2) hydrophilic thickener, the following may be cited:
[0331] Crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid or (meth)acrylate polymers, preferably crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and / or (meth)acrylate, and more preferably crosslinked sodium polyacrylates, such as, for example, those sold under the names Octacare XI00, XI10 and RM 100 by Avecia, those sold under the names Flocare GB300 and Flosorb 500 by SNF, those sold under the names Luquasorb 1003, Luquasorb 1010, Luquasorb 1280 and Luquasorb 1100 by BASF, those sold under the names Water Lock G400 and G430 (INCI name: Acrylamide / Sodium Acrylate Copolymer) by Grain Processing, or Aqua Keep 10 SH NF supplied by Sumitomo Seika, or Aqupec MG N40R supplied by Sumitomo Seika.
[0332] Non-associative thickening polymers may be selected from crosslinked 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymers and their crosslinked acrylamide copolymers.
[0333] Among the partially or totally neutralized crosslinked copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylamide, particular mention may be made of the product described in Example 1 of document EP 503 853, and reference may be made to said document concerning these polymers.
[0334] The composition may also include, as non-associative thickening polymers, ammonium acrylate homopolymers or ammonium acrylate and acrylamide copolymers.
[0335] Among the ammonium acrylate homopolymers that may be cited is the product sold under the name Microsap PAS 5193 by Hoechst. Among the ammonium acrylate and acrylamide copolymers that may be cited are the product sold under the name Bozepol C Nouveau and the product PAS 5193 sold by Hoechst. Reference may be made, in particular, to FR 2 416 723, US 2 798 053 and US 2 923 692 for the description and preparation of these compounds.
[0336] Cationic thickening polymers of the acrylic type can also be used.
[0337] Among hydrophilic thickening polymers, associative polymers, which are well known to those skilled in the art, can also be mentioned, particularly those of a nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric nature.
[0338] It is recalled that associative polymers are polymers capable, in aqueous media, of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules.
[0339] Their chemical structure includes more particularly at least one hydrophilic region and at least one hydrophobic region.
[0340] The term "hydrophobic group" means a radical or polymer with a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.
[0341] Preferably, the hydrocarbon-based group is derived from a monofunctional compound. By way of example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, or decyl alcohol. It may also designate a hydrocarbon-based polymer, for example, polybutadiene.
[0342] Examples of anionic-type associative polymers include:
[0343] (a) those comprising at least one hydrophilic motif and at least one allyl ether motif fatty chain, more particularly those whose hydrophilic motif consists of an unsaturated ethylenic anionic monomer, more particularly a vinylcarboxylic acid and especially an acrylic acid or a methacrylic acid or their mixtures. Among the anionic associative polymers, those which are particularly preferred according to the present invention are polymers formed of 20% to 60% by weight of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid, 5% to 60% by weight of lower alkyl (meth)acrylates, 2% to 50% by weight of fatty chain allyl ether, and 0% to 1% by weight of a crosslinking agent which is a well-known copolymerizable unsaturated polyethylenic monomer, for example, diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate and methylenebisacrylamide.Among these latter polymers, the most particularly preferred are the crosslinked terpolymers of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate and stearyl alcohol ether of polyethylene glycol (10 OE) (Steareth-10), notably those sold by the company CIBA under the names Salcare SC80® and Salcare SC90®, which are aqueous emulsions of 30% of a crosslinked terpolymer of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate and steareth-10 allyl ether (40 / 50 / 10).
[0344] (b) those comprising i) at least one hydrophilic motif of the carboxylic acid type unsaturated olefinic, and ii) at least one hydrophobic motif of the alkyl (C10-C30) ester of the unsaturated carboxylic acid type. Alkyl (C10-C30) esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids that are useful in the present invention include, for example, lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate, and dodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate, and dodecyl methacrylate. Anionic polymers of this type are described and prepared, for example, according to US patents 3,915,921 and 4,509,949.Among the anionic associative polymers of this type, particular use will be made of those consisting of 95% to 60% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic motif), 4% to 40% by weight of alkyl acrylate in C10-C30 (hydrophobic motif), and 0% to 6% by weight of polymerizable crosslinking monomer, or alternatively those consisting of 98% to 96% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic motif), 1% to 4% by weight of alkyl acrylate in C10-C30 (hydrophobic motif) and 0.1% to 0.6% by weight of polymerizable crosslinking monomer such as those described above. Among the aforementioned polymers, those most particularly preferred according to the present invention are the products sold by Goodrich under the trade names Pemulen TRI®, Pemulen TR2®, Carbopol 1382®, and even more preferably Pemulen TRI®, and the product sold by SEPPIC under the name Coatex SX®.We can also mention the acrylic acid / lauryl methacrylate / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymer sold under the name Acrylidone LM by the company ISP; .
[0345] (c) maleic anhydride / C30-C38 α-olefin / alkyl maleate terpolymers, such that the product (maleic anhydride / C30-C38 α-olefin / isopropyl maleate copolymer) sold under the name Performa V 1608® by the company Newphase Tech- nologies.
[0346] (d) acrylic terpolymers comprising:
[0347] i) about 20% to 70% by weight of an α,[3-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid [α],
[0348] ii) about 20% to 80% by weight of a non-surfactant monomer α,[3-monoethylenically unsaturated other than [α],
[0349] iii) approximately 0.5% to 60% by weight of a nonionic monourethane which is the reaction product of a monohydric surfactant with a monoethylenically unsaturated monoisocyanate,
[0350] such as those described in patent application EP-A-0 173 109 and more particularly the terpolymer described in Example 3, namely a methacrylic acid / methyl acrylate / behenyl alcohol terpolymer dimethyl-meta-isopropenylbenzylisocyanate ethoxylated (40 OE) in the form of a 25% aqueous dispersion;
[0351] (e) copolymers comprising among their monomers a carboxylic acid α,[3-monoethylenically unsaturated and an ester of an α,[3-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and an oxyalkylated fatty alcohol. Preferably, these compounds also comprise as a monomer an ester of an α,[3-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and a C1-C4 alcohol.
[0352] An example of a compound of this type which may be cited is Aculyn 22® sold by Rohm & Haas, which is a terpolymer of oxyalkylated methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / stearyl methacrylate; and also Aculyn 88, also sold by Rohm & Haas.
[0353] (f) amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomers bearing a sulfonic acid group, in free or partially or totally neutralized form, and comprising at least one hydrophobic portion. These polymers may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked. They are preferably crosslinked. Ethylenely unsaturated monomers bearing a sulfonic acid group are selected in particular from vinylsulfonic acid, styrenesulfonic acid, (meth)acrylamido(Ci-C22)alkylsulfonic acids, N-(Cr C22)alkyl(meth)acrylamido(Ci-C22)alkylsulfonic acids such as undecylacrylamidomethanesulfonic acid, and also their partially or totally neutralized forms, and mixtures thereof.
[0354] (Meth)acrylamido(Ci-C22)alkylsulfonic acids, for example acrylamidomethanesulfonic acid, acrylamidoethanesulfonic acid, acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, methacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-n-butanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,4,4-trimethylpentanesulfonic acid, 2-methacrylamidododecylsulfonic acid or acid 2-acrylamido-2,6-dimethyl-3-heptanesulfonic acid, and also their partially or totally neutralized forms, will be used more preferentially.
[0355] 2-Acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS), as well as its partially or totally neutralized forms, will be used in particular.
[0356] Polymers of this family may be selected in particular from statistically modified amphiphilic AMPS polymers by reaction with a C6-C22 n-monoalkylamine or di-n-alkylamine, such as those described in patent application WO 00 / 31154. These polymers may also contain other ethylenically unsaturated hydrophilic monomers selected, for example, from (meth)acrylic acids, their alkyl [3-substituted] derivatives or their esters obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glycols, (meth)acrylamides, vinylpyrrolidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid, or mixtures of these compounds.
[0357] Preferred polymers of this family are chosen from among amphiphilic copolymers of AMPS and at least one ethylenically unsaturated hydrophobic monomer.
[0358] These same copolymers may also contain one or more ethylenically unsaturated monomers not comprising a fatty chain, such as (meth)acrylic acids, their alkyl [3-substituted] derivatives or their esters obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glycols, (meth)acrylamides, vinyl-pyrrolidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid, or mixtures of these compounds.
[0359] These copolymers are described in particular in patent application EP-A-0 750 899, US patent 5 089 578 and in the following publications by Yotaro Morishima:
[0360] - Self-assembly amphiphilic polyelectrolytes and their nanostructures, Chinese Journal of Polymer Science, Vol. 18, no. 40, (2000), 323-336;
[0361] - Micelle formation of random copolymers of sodium 2-(acrylamido)-2-methylpropanesulfonate and a nonionic surfactant macromonomer in water as studied by fluorescence and dynamic light scattering, Macromolecules, 2000, Vol. 33, No. 10 3694-3704;
[0362] - Solution properties of micelle networks formed by nonionic moieties covalently bound to a polyelectrolyte: known effects on rheological behavior - Langmuir, 2000, Vol. 16, No. 12, 5324-5332;
[0363] - Stimuli responsive amphiphilic copolymers of sodium 2-(acrylamido)-2-methylpropanesulfonate and associative macromonomers, Polym. Preprint, Div. Polym. Chem., 40(2), (1999), 220-221.
[0364] Among these polymers, we can mention:
[0365] - crosslinked or non-crosslinked, neutralized or non-neutralized copolymers, comprising 15% to 60% by weight of AMPS motifs and 40% to 85% by weight of (C8-Ci6)alkyl(meth)acrylamide or (C8-Ci6)alkyl(meth)acrylate motifs relative to the polymer, such as those described in patent application EP-A750 899;
[0366] - terpolymers comprising from 10 mol% to 90 mol% of motifs acrylamide, from 0.1 mol% to 10 mol% of AMPS motifs and from 5 mol% to 80 mol% of n-(C6-Ci8)alkylacrylamide motifs, such as those described in US patent 5,089,578.
[0367] We can also mention copolymers of totally neutralized AMPS and dodecyl methacrylate, as well as crosslinked and non-crosslinked copolymers of AMPS and n-dodecylmethacrylamide, such as those described in the Morishima articles cited above.
[0368] Among cationic associative polymers, we can mention:
[0369] (a) associative cationic polyurethanes;
[0370] (b) the compound sold by Noveon under the name Aqua CC and which corresponds with the INCI name Polyacrylate-1 Crosspolymer. Polyacrylate-1 Crosspolymer is the product of the polymerization of a mixture of monomers comprising:
[0371] - a di(Ci-C4 alkyl)amino(Ci-C6 alkyl) methacrylate,
[0372] - one or more Ci-C30 alkyl esters of (meth)acrylic acid,
[0373] - a polyethoxylated C30-Cio alkyl methacrylate (20 to 25 mol of oxide motifs) ethylene),
[0374] - a 30 / 5 polyethylene glycol / allyl ether of polypropylene glycol,
[0375] - a C2-C6 alkyl hydroxy(hydroxy) methacrylate, and
[0376] - ethylene glycol dimethacrylate.
[0377] (c) quaternized (poly)hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl, or al-kylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof. The alkyl radicals present in the quaternized celluloses or hydroxyethylcelluloses above preferably comprise from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The aryl radicals preferably designate phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl, or anthryl groups. Examples of quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses containing C8-C30 fatty chains that may be indicated include the products Quatrisoft LM 200®, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18-A®, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18-B® (Ci2 alkyl) and Quatrisoft LM-X 529-8® (C[8] alkyl) sold by Aqualon, and the products Crodacel QM®, Crodacel QL® (Ci2 alkyl) and Crodacel QS® (Ci8 alkyl) sold by Croda and the product Softcat SL 100® sold by Aqualon;
[0378] (d) cationic polyvinyllactam polymers.
[0379] These polymers are described, for example, in patent application WO-00 / 68282.
[0380] As cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers according to the present invention, vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / dodecyldimethylmethacryl-amidopropylammonium terpolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / cocoyldimethylmethacryl-midopropylammonium terpolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / di-methylaminopropylmethacrylamide / tosylate or lauryldimethylmethacryl-midopropylammonium chloride terpolymers are used in particular.
[0381] Amphoteric associative polymers are preferably selected from those comprising at least one non-cyclic cationic motif. More particularly, those prepared from or comprising 1 to 20 mol%, preferably 1.5 to 15 mol%, and more particularly 1.5 to 6 mol% of fatty chain monomer relative to the total number of moles of monomers are preferred.
[0382] Amphoteric associative polymers according to the present invention are described and prepared, for example, in patent application WO 98 / 44012.
[0383] Among the amphoteric associative polymers according to the present invention, those that are preferred are acrylic acid / (meth)acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride / stearyl methacrylate terpolymers.
[0384] The non-ionic associative polymers that can be used according to the present invention are preferably selected from:
[0385] (a) copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and hydrophobic chain monomers Grasse, examples of which that can be cited include:
[0386] - the products Antaron V216® or Ganex V216® (vinylpyrrolidone copolymer / hexadecene), sold by the company ISP,
[0387] - the products Antaron V220® or Ganex V220® (vinylpyrrolidone copolymer / eicosene), sold by the company ISP,
[0388] (b) copolymers of methacrylates or alkyl acrylates in C1-C6 and amphiphilic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, for example the oxyethylenated methyl acrylate / stearyl acrylate copolymer sold by the Goldschmidt company under the name ANTIL 208®;
[0389] (c) copolymers of hydrophilic methacrylates or acrylates and hy monomers drophobes comprising at least one fatty chain, for example polyethylene glycol / lauryl methacrylate copolymer;
[0390] (d) polyurethane polyethers comprising in their chain both hy blocks Drophiles usually of a polyoxyethylenated nature and hydrophobic blocks, which may be aliphatic sequences alone and / or cycloaliphatic and / or aromatic sequences;
[0391] (e) polymers with an aminoplastic ether backbone containing at least one fatty chain, such as the Pure Thix® compounds sold by the company Sud-Chemie;
[0392] (f) celluloses or their derivatives, modified by groups comprising at least a fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups or mixtures thereof in which the alkyl groups are at C8, and in particular:
[0393] * non-ionic alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses such as Natrosol Plus products Grade 330 CS and Polysurf 67 (alkyl in Ci6) sold by the company Aqualon;
[0394] * non-ionic nonoxynylhydroxyethylcelluloses such as the Amercell product HM-1500 sold by the company Amerchol;
[0395] * non-ionic alkylcelluloses such as the product Bermocoll EHM 100 sold by the company Berol Nobel;
[0396] (g) associative guar derivatives, for example hydroxypropyl guars modified by a fatty chain, such as the product Esaflor HM 22 (modified by a C22 alkyl chain) sold by the company Lamberti; the product Miracare XC 95-3 (modified by a CM alkyl chain) and the product RE 205-146 (modified by a C2o alkyl chain) sold by Rhodia Chimie.
[0397] Preferably, the polyether polyurethanes comprise at least two lipophilic hydrocarbon-based chains containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic block. The hydrocarbon-based chains may be side chains or chains at the ends of the hydrophilic block. In particular, one or more side chains may be used. Furthermore, the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon-based chain at one or both ends of a hydrophilic block.
[0398] Polyurethane polyethers can be multiblock, particularly in triblock form. The hydrophobic blocks can be at each end of the chain (e.g., a triblock copolymer with a central hydrophilic block) or distributed both at the ends and in the chain (e.g., a multiblock copolymer). These same polymers can also be grafted polymers or star polymers.
[0399] Nonionic fatty chain polyether polyurethanes can be triblock copolymers, the hydrophilic block of which is a polyoxyethylene chain comprising 50 to 1000 oxyethylene groups. Nonionic polyether polyurethanes include a urethane linkage between the hydrophilic blocks, hence the origin of the name.
[0400] By extension, also included among non-ionic fat-chain polyether polyurethanes are those in which the hydrophilic blocks are linked to the lipophilic blocks via other chemical bonds.
[0401] By way of examples of nonionic fat chain polyether polyurethanes which can be used in the present invention, Rheolate 205® bearing a urea function, sold by the Rheox company, or Rheolate® 208, 204 or 212, as well as Acrysol RM 184®, can also be used.
[0402] We can also mention the product Elfacos T210® bearing an alkyl chain in Ci2-C 14, and the product Elfacos T212® bearing an alkyl chain in Ci8, from Akzo.
[0403] Rohm & Haas product DW 1206B® bearing a C2o alkyl chain and a urethane bond, sold at a dry matter content of 20% in water, can also be used.
[0404] Solutions or dispersions of these polymers can also be used, particularly in water or in aqueous-alcoholic media. Examples of such polymers include Rheolate® 255, Rheolate® 278, and Rheolate® 244, sold by Rheox. DW 1206F and DW 1206J, sold by Rohm & Haas, can also be used.
[0405] Polyurethane polyethers which can be used according to the present invention are in particular those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen - Colloid Polym. Sci., 271, 380-389 (1993).
[0406] It is even more particularly preferred to use a polyether polyurethane which can be obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising 150 to 180 mol of ethylene oxide, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol, and (iii) at least one diisocyanate.
[0407] These polyurethane polyethers are sold in particular by Rohm & Haas under the names Aculyn 46® and Aculyn 44® [Aculyn 46® is a polyethylene glycol polycondensate containing 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, stearyl alcohol and methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), at 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%); Aculyn 44® is a polyethylene glycol polycondensate containing 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, decyl alcohol and methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), at 35% by weight in a mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%)].
[0408] The quantity of the (b-2) hydrophilic thickener(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0409] The quantity of the (b-2) hydrophilic thickener(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0410] The quantity of the (b-2) hydrophilic thickener(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0411] (Polyol)
[0412] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (b-3) at least one polyol. Two or more different types of (b-3) polyols may be used in combination.
[0413] The term "polyol" here means an alcohol having two or more hydroxy groups, and does not include a saccharide or a derivative thereof. A derivative of a saccharide includes a sugar alcohol obtained by reducing one or more carbonyl groups of a saccharide, as well as a saccharide or a sugar alcohol in which the hydrogen atom(s) in one or more hydroxy groups thereof has been replaced by at least one substituent such as an alkyl group, a hydroxyalkyl group, an alkoxy group, an acyl group or a carbonyl group.
[0414] The polyols used in the present invention are liquid at room temperature, for example 25 °C under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg or 105 Pa).
[0415] The polyol may be a C2-C24 polyol, preferably a C2-C9 polyol, comprising at least 2 hydroxy groups, and preferably 2 to 5 hydroxy groups.
[0416] The polyol can be natural or synthetic. The polyol can have a linear, branched, or cyclic molecular structure.
[0417] The polyol may be selected from glycerins, glycols and mixtures thereof. The polyol may be selected from the group consisting of glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, C6-C24 polyethylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, and a mixture thereof.
[0418] It is preferable that the (b-3) polyol be chosen from the group consisting of glycerin, ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol and a mixture thereof.
[0419] The quantity of (b-3) polyol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 3% by weight or more, and more preferably 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0420] The quantity of (b-3) polyol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0421] The quantity of (b-3) polyol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 3% to 15% by weight and more preferably from 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0422] (Coloring agent)
[0423] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (c) at least one coloring agent. If two (c) or more coloring agents are used, they may be identical or different.
[0424] The (c) colouring agent may be present in the (a) oily phase or the (b) aqueous phase, depending on the nature of the (c) colouring agent.
[0425] In one embodiment, the (c) coloring agent may be selected from dyes, pigments and mixtures thereof.
[0426] In the present invention, the (c) colouring agent may be soluble in water or dispersible in water, or soluble in oil or dispersible in oil or with limited solubility in water.
[0427] In one embodiment, the (c) coloring agent may be chosen from coloring pigments.
[0428] The term “colour pigments” should be understood as white or coloured particles, inorganic or organic, of any shape, which are insoluble and intended to colour or dye the skin or lips.
[0429] Pigments can be white or colored, inorganic and / or organic.
[0430] Among the usable inorganic pigments, the following may be mentioned without limitation: titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated; zirconium or cerium oxide; zinc, iron, or chromium oxide (black, yellow, or red); manganese violet; ultramarine blue; chromium hydrate; and ferric blue; or metallic powders, such as aluminum or copper powder. The pigments may also be selected from nanopigments formed of metallic oxides, such as titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, zirconium oxide, and cerium oxide, and mixtures thereof. "Nanopigments" means pigments with an average particle size range of 1 nm to 500 nm, such as, for example, particle sizes between 10 nm and 100 nm.
[0431] Among the usable organic pigments, mention may be made, without limitation, of carbon black, D&C type pigments and lakes, such as lakes based on cochineal carmine and barium, strontium, calcium or aluminum. For example, Red 33 (5-amino-4-hydroxy-3-(phenylazo)-naphthalene-2,7-disodium disulfonate) and Red 202 (calcium bis[2-(3-carboxy-2-hydroxynephthylazo)-5-methylbenzenesulfonate) can be used as a D&C type pigment.
[0432] The organic pigment may also be a diketopyrrolopyrrole (DPP) such as those described in documents EP-A-542669, EP-A-787730, EP-A-787731 and WO-A-96 / 08537.
[0433] The organic pigment can be chosen from bio-pigments such as Bio-ChromaDerm® or BioChromaEyes® supplied by Biotic Phocea in France.
[0434] Preferably, the colouring pigment can be selected from metallic oxides such as titanium dioxide, zirconium oxide, cerium oxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide and chromium oxide; manganese violet; Prussian blue; ultramarine blue; chromium hydrate; ferric blue; aluminium powder; the copper powder; carbon black; D&C type pigments; lacquers; pearlescent pigments; and mixtures thereof.
[0435] The expression "pearl pigments" should be understood as meaning iridescent particles of any shape, such as particles produced by certain shellfish in their shells or synthesized.
[0436] Pearlescent agents may be selected from white pearlescent agents, such as mica coated with titanium dioxide or bismuth oxychloride, coloured pearlescent agents, such as mica coated with titanium oxide covered with iron oxide, mica coated with titanium oxide covered with ferric blue or chromium oxide or mica coated with titanium oxide covered with an organic pigment of the type mentioned above, and pearlescent agents based on bismuth oxychloride.
[0437] It is preferable that the (c) colouring agent be chosen from among hydrophobic pigments.
[0438] It is preferable that the hydrophobic pigment be chosen from among the coated pigments Hydrophobic. A "hydrophobic coated pigment" is defined as any pigment coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound. The term "lipophilic compound" refers to any compound soluble or dispersible in oil. The term "hydrophobic compound" refers to any compound insoluble in water.
[0439] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the pigments to be coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound are chosen from inorganic and organic pigments.
[0440] The hydrophobic pigment may have at least one coating comprising at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound. This lipophilic or hydrophobic coating may be present on the outermost surface of the hydrophobic pigment.
[0441] For the purposes of the present invention, the "coating" of a pigment generally refers to the total or partial surface treatment of the pigment with a surface treatment agent, absorbed, adsorbed, or grafted onto said pigment. Thus, hydrophobic pigments can be surface-treated pigments.
[0442] Surface-treated pigments can be prepared using chemical, electronic, mechanochemical, or mechanical surface treatment techniques well known to those skilled in the art. Commercial products can also be used as surface-treated pigments.
[0443] The surface treatment agent can be absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto the pigments by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction and creation of a covalent bond.
[0444] According to one embodiment, the surface treatment consists of a coating of the pigments.
[0445] The hydrophobic pigment may also comprise at least one coating including at least one non-lipophilic or non-hydrophobic compound, for example, at least one hydrophilic compound. For example, the non-lipophilic or non-hydrophobic compound may be selected from a metal hydroxide such as hydroxide of aluminum and metallic chlorides such as magnesium chloride. This non-lipophilic or non-hydrophobic coating may be present between the pigment itself and the lipophilic or hydrophobic coating.
[0446] The coating may represent from 0.1% to 20% by weight and in particular from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the coated pigment.
[0447] The coating can be achieved, for example, by adsorption of a liquid surface treatment agent onto the surface of solid pigment particles by simple mixing with agitation of the particles and said surface treatment agent, possibly with heating, before incorporating the particles into the other ingredients of the composition to be used for the present invention.
[0448] The coating can be achieved, for example, by chemical reaction of a surface treatment agent with the surface of the solid pigment particles and creation of a covalent bond between the surface treatment agent and the particles. This method is described in particular in US-B-4,578,266.
[0449] Chemical surface treatment may consist of diluting a surface treatment agent in a volatile solvent, dispersing pigments in this mixture, and then slowly evaporating the volatile solvent, so that the surface treatment agent is deposited on the surface of the pigments.
[0450] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the pigments can be coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound selected from silicon-based surface treatment agents; fluorinated surface treatment agents; fluorosilicone surface treatment agents; metallic soaps; fatty acids; N-acylaminated acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; a monoalkyl triacyl titanate such as isopropyl triisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.
[0451] It is more preferable that (c) the coloring agent be chosen from pigments treated with mono-alkyl triacyl titanate. In a preferred embodiment, pigments suitable for use in the present invention are treated, for example, coated or coated with mono-alkyl triacyl titanate. A mono-alkyl triacyl titanate, also called mono-alkyl titanate, can be represented by the formula RO-Ti-(OR')3, in which R is an alkyl group and the R's are acyl groups, which may be the same or different.
[0452] In certain embodiments of monoalkyl triacyl titanate, said alkyl is a C5 alkyl group, in particular a C1,4 alkyl group, and said acyl is derived from acrylic acid or a derivative of acrylic acid, for example methacrylic acid, or from a fatty acid. Acyl groups in particular are derived from a C6,30 fatty acid, more particularly from a C12,24 fatty acid, and even more particularly from a fatty acids in the C16 2O group. These fatty acids may be capric, lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, isostearic, hydroxystearic, or oleic acid. The acyl groups of these triacyl titanates may be identical or different. A preferred embodiment is mono-isopropyl triacyl titanate; see the publication of US patent application no. 20050019284 (specifically paragraphs
[0038] -
[0052] ).
[0453] According to a preferred embodiment, monoalkyl triacetyl titanate may be isopropyl triisostearoyl titanate (ITT), isopropyl dimethacryl isos-tearoyl titanate, isopropyl dimethacryl isostearoyl titanate.
[0454] Preferably, the monoalkyl triacyl titanate may be isopropyl triisostearoyl titanate (ITT), which may also be called isopropyl titanium triisostearate.
[0455] The pigment treated with mono-alkyl triacyl titanate may be a pigment treated with isopropyl triisostearoyl titanate.
[0456] Monoalkyl triacyl titanate treated pigment is a pigment treated with at least monoalkyl triacyl titanate. Monoalkyl triacyl titanate treated pigment may be treated only with monoalkyl triacyl titanate, or treated with monoalkyl triacyl titanate and at least one additional surface treatment agent such as a fluorinated surface treatment agent or a silicone-based surface treatment agent such as polydimethylsiloxane and triethoxysilylethyl polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone.
[0457] For example, isopropyl triisostearoyl titanate treated pigment is a pigment treated with at least isopropyl triisostearoyl titanate (ITT). Isopropyl triisostearoyl titanate treated pigment may be treated only with isopropyl triisostearoyl titanate (ITT), or treated with isopropyl triisostearoyl titanate (ITT) and at least one additional surface treatment agent such as a fluorinated surface treatment agent or a silicone-based surface treatment agent such as polydimethylsiloxane and triethoxysilylethyl polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone.
[0458] Examples include isopropyl triisostearyl titanate treated pigments sold, for example, by KOBO under the trade name BWYO-12 (iron oxide CI 77492 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate), BWRO-12 (iron oxide CI 77491 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate), BWBO-12 (iron oxide CI 77499 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate), and / or TiO2 CR-50 12 (titanium dioxide CI 77891 coated with aluminium and isopropyl titanium triisostearate).
[0459] The quantity of the (c) colouring agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 3% by weight or more, and more preferably 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0460] The quantity of the (c) colouring agent(s) in the composition according to the present The invention may be less than or equal to 20% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 15% by weight, and, more preferably less than or equal to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0461] The quantity of the (c) colouring agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 3% to 15% by weight and, more preferably, from 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0462] (Optional additional components)
[0463] The composition according to the present invention may include, in addition to the aforementioned ingredients, ingredients typically used in cosmetic products, specifically fillers, cationic, anionic, amphoteric and non-ionic surfactants, UV filters, preservatives, or the like, in a range which does not affect the effects of the present invention.
[0464] The composition according to the present invention may comprise the above optional ingredient(s) in an amount of 0.001% to 30% by weight, preferably 0.01% to 20% by weight, and more preferably 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0465] [Preparation]
[0466] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential and optional ingredients described above in a conventional manner.
[0467] The method and means for mixing the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention.
[0468] [Form]
[0469] The composition according to the present invention is of the E / H type.
[0470] In the composition according to the present invention, a plurality of (b) aqueous phases are dispersed in (a) oily phase. The (b) aqueous phases are discontinuous phases, while (a) oily phase is a continuous phase.
[0471] The composition according to the present invention may be in the form of an O / W emulsion, in particular if the composition according to the present invention includes at least one emulsifier such as a surfactant.
[0472] It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention be in the form of a water-in-wax / oil type composition, more preferably a water-in-wax / oil type emulsion.
[0473] It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention be in the form of a solid. The term "solid" here refers to a state that is not fluid under atmospheric pressure (101325 Pa) and at ambient temperature (25 °C).
[0474] It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention has a hardness of less than 8.9 g / mm, preferably less than 8.3 g / mm and more preferably, less than 7.8 g / mm.
[0475] The hardness of a composition can be evaluated using the "butter wire" method. This method involves cutting the composition into a 9 mm diameter rod with a metal wire at a speed of 0.16–0.19 cm / s at 20 °C and measuring its hardness using a force measuring machine such as the Ametek Chatillon™. The hardness obtained using this method can be expressed in grams per mm² as the maximum shear force required to cut the rod under the above conditions.
[0476] The quantity of (a) fat phase in the composition according to the present invention may be 30% by weight or more, preferably 35% by weight or more, and more preferably 40% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0477] The quantity of the (a) fat phase in the composition according to the present invention may be 70% by weight or less, preferably 65% by weight or less and more preferably 60% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0478] The quantity of the (a) fat phase in the composition according to the present invention can be from 30% to 70% by weight, preferably from 35% to 65% by weight, and more preferably from 40% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0479] The quantity of the (b) aqueous phase(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or more, preferably 15% by weight or more, and more preferably 20% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0480] The quantity of the (b) aqueous phase in the composition according to the present invention may be 40% by weight or less, preferably 35% by weight or less and, more preferably, 30% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0481] The quantity of the (b) aqueous phase in the composition according to the present invention can be from 10% to 40% by weight, preferably from 15% to 35% by weight, and more preferably from 20% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0482] [Cosmetic use and processes]
[0483] The composition according to the present invention may be a cosmetic composition, preferably a makeup composition and, more preferably, a lipstick composition.
[0484] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be used for cosmetic treatments, preferably makeup, of a keratinous substance such as skin and the surface of a mucous membrane, for example the lips.
[0485] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for a keratinous substance such as skin and lips, comprising: the application, on the keratinous substance, of the composition according to the present invention.
[0486] For example, the composition according to the present invention can be used for a cosmetic makeup process on a keratinous substance such as skin and the surface of a mucous membrane (for example on the lips), comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratinous substance.
[0487] The composition according to the present invention can provide cosmetic effects, particularly makeup effects, such as coloring of the keratinous substance. Furthermore, the composition according to the present invention can provide long-lasting makeup effects and / or color-transfer-resistant effects.
[0488] The present invention may also relate to the use of (a-3) at least one indene resin in a composition comprising:
[0489] (a) a continuous fatty phase comprising
[0490] (a-1) at least one oil, and
[0491] (a-2) at least one wax;
[0492] and
[0493] (b) a plurality of dispersed aqueous phases comprising
[0494] (b-1) of water,
[0495] in order to limit the transfer of the composition which has been applied to a keratinous substance such as lips to any other substance with which the composition is in contact. EXAMPLES
[0496] We will describe the present invention in more detail by means of examples. However, these examples should not be interpreted as limiting the scope of the present invention. The examples below are presented as non-limiting illustrations within the field of the present invention. Examples 1-2 and comparative examples 1-2
[0497] [Preparation]
[0498] Each of the compositions according to Examples 1-2 and Comparative Examples 1-2 in the form of a lipstick was prepared by mixing the ingredients indicated in Table 1 at an elevated temperature, and by molding / cooling to prepare the lipstick. The numerical values of the quantities of ingredients indicated in Table 1 are all based on "% by weight" of raw materials.
[0499] [Tables 1] Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. Comp. 1 Ex. Comp. 2 Hydrogenated Polyisobutene 10.55 10.55 12.45 2.69 Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 Polyethylene 10.04 10.04 10.04 10.04 Paraffin (and) Microcrystalline Wax (and) Synthetic Wax 2.68 2.68 2.68 2.68 Jojoba Esters (and) Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax (and) Polyglycerin-3 (and) Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax 4.28 4.28 4.28 4.28 Glyceryl Stearate 0.19 0.19 0.19 0.19 Isohexadecane 2.85 3.80 2.85 - Hydrogenated Polyisobutene (and) Ethylene / Propylene / Styrene Copolymer (and) Butylene / Ethylene / Styrene Copolymer (and) BHT 12.6* Hydrogenated Styrene / Methylstyrene / Indene Copolymer 1.90 0.95 - - Coco-Caprylate / Caprate 3.80 3.80 3.80 3.80 Dimethicone 0.48 0.48 0.48 0.48 CETYL PEG / PPG-10 / 1 DIMETHICONE 2.85 2.85 2.85 2.85 DIMETHICONE (and) PEG / PPG-18 / 18 DL METHICONE 0.95 0.95 0.95 0.95 POLYGLYCERYL-4 ISOSTEARATE 0.95 0.95 0.95 0.95 PIGMENTS 8.59 8.59 8.59 8.59 LAUROYL LYSINE 1.43 1,43 1.43 1.43 SILICA 0.48 0.48 0.48 0.48 , SILICA (and) DIMETHICONE 0.48 0.48 0.48 0.48 ISOHEXADECANE 3.80 3.80 3.80 3.80 HYDROGENATED POLYISOBUTENE 0.95 0.95 0.95 0.95 TRIMETHYLSILOXYSILICATE 6.47 6.47 6.47 6.47 WATER 20.82 20.82 20.82 20.82 SODIUM CHLORIDE 0.38 0.38 0.38 0.38 GLYCERIN 4.75 4.75 4.75 4.75 SODIUM HYALURONATE 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 ACRYLIC ACID POLYMER Hydrogenated 0.19 0.19 0.19 0.19 Phenoxyethanol 0.48 0.48 0.48 0.48 Caprylyl Glycol 0.29 0.29 0.29 0.29 Pentylene Glycol 1.90 1.90 1.90 1.90 Isododecane 7.13 7.13 7.13 7.13
[0500] * Polymer content: 1.04% by weight (relative to the total weight of the product) position)
[0501] [Evaluations]
[0502] (Hardness)
[0503] The hardness of each of the compositions according to Examples 1-2 and Comparative Examples 1-2 was measured at 20 °C using a testing apparatus (Ametek Chatillon™ DFGHS2) in which the composition was in the form of a cylinder with a diameter of 9 mm, which was maintained at 20 °C for more than 1 day before being cut. The hardness was determined as corresponding to the maximum shear force (g) per mm when the composition was cut vertically 1 cm from the edge of the cylinder with a wire at a speed of 0.16-0.19 cm / s at 20 °C.
[0504] The results are shown in the "Hardness" row in Table 2 below.
[0505] (Application)
[0506] Each of the compositions according to examples 1-2 and comparative examples 1-2 was applied to the lips of five panelists. The weight of each composition before and after application was measured. The difference between the weight of each composition before and after application was determined and averaged as the amount applied.
[0507] The results are shown in the "Application" row in Table 2 below.
[0508] (Sensory tests)
[0509] Each of the compositions according to examples 1-2 and comparative examples 1-2 was applied to the lips of five panelists. The degrees of glide, melting sensation, and stickiness were evaluated by assigning a score from 1 to 5. The score was averaged and categorized according to the following criteria:
[0510] Good: over 4.0
[0511] Correct: 2.5 to 4.0
[0512] Bad: less than 2.5
[0513] The results are shown on the "Slippery", "Fusion of melting" and "Stickyness" lines of Table 2 below.
[0514] (Color Transfer)
[0515] Each of the compositions according to Examples 1-2 and Comparative Examples 1-2 was applied to the lips of five panelists and left for 5 minutes. Tissue paper was placed on the lips and left for 5 seconds. The tissue paper was then removed from the lips. The color on the tissue paper was evaluated by assigning a score from 1 to 5. The score was averaged and categorized according to the following criteria:
[0516] Good: over 4.0
[0517] Correct: 2.5 to 4.0
[0518] Bad: less than 2.5
[0519] The results are shown in the "Color Transfer" row in Table 2 below.
[0520] [Tables2] Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. Comp. 1 Ex. Comp. 2 Hardness (g / mm) 6.9 6.6 6.9 7.9 Application (g) 8.5 6.7 6.6 5.5 Sensory Tests Glide Good Good Good Poor Melting Sensation Good Good Good Poor Stickiness Good Good Good Poor Color Transfer Good Good Poor Good
[0521] (Summary)
[0522] The compositions according to Examples 1 and 2, which correspond to the present invention, could offer a feeling of comfort during use and / or after use, and exhibited less color transfer.
[0523] On the other hand, the composition according to Comparative Example 1, which did not include the indene resin (a-3) exhibited increased color transfer, while providing a comfortable feel during and / or after use.
[0524] In addition, the composition according to Comparative Example 2, which included another lipophilic thickener (styrene-based copolymers) that is different from (a-3) indene resin, could not offer a feeling of comfort but offered less color transfer.
Claims
Demands
1. Composition, comprising: (a) a continuous fatty phase comprising (a-1) at least one oil, (a-2) at least one wax, and (a-3) at least one indene resin; and (b) a plurality of dispersed aqueous phases comprising (b-1) water.
2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the (a-1) oil is selected from (a-1-1) volatile oils, preferably volatile nonpolar oils and more preferably volatile nonpolar hydrocarbon oils; (a-1-2) non-volatile oils, preferably nonpolar non-volatile oils, and more preferably nonpolar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils; and mixtures thereof.
3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the quantity of the (a-1) oil(s) in the composition is 15% to 45% by weight, preferably 20% to 40% by weight and more preferably 25% to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the (a-2) wax is selected from polar waxes, non-polar waxes and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from polar ester waxes, non-polar hydrocarbon waxes, and mixtures thereof.
5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the quantity of the (a-2) wax(s) in the composition is 12% to 30% by weight, preferably 13% to 25% by weight, and more preferably 14% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the (a-3) indene resin is selected from hydrogenated styrene / methylstyrene / indene copolymers.
7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the (a) oil phase further comprises (a-4) at least one film-forming polymer.
8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the (b) aqueous phase further comprises (b-2) at least one hydrophilic thickener.
9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the composition is a cosmetic composition, preferably a makeup composition, and more preferably a lipstick.
10. Use of (a-3) at least one indene resin in a composition comprising: (a) a continuous oily phase comprising (a-1) at least one oil, and (a-2) at least one wax; and (b) a plurality of dispersed aqueous phases comprising (b-1) water, in order to limit the transfer of the composition which has been applied to a keratinous substance such as lips to any other substance with which the composition is in contact.