A process for coloring keratin fibers comprising an application step of at least one alkoxysilane, a film-forming polymer and a coloring agent, and a heat treatment step
The application of alkoxysilanes and film-forming polymers with heat treatment provides a durable, homogeneous color coating on keratin fibers, addressing the issue of color resistance and uniformity in temporary hair coloring.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2024000723
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2024-01-25
- Publication Date
- 2026-01-16
- Estimated Expiration
- 2044-01-25
AI Technical Summary
Existing hair coloring methods, particularly temporary and non-permanent techniques, result in colors that are not resistant to shampoos, sebum, perspiration, brushing, and friction, leading to poor durability and uneven coloration on keratin fibers.
A method involving the application of an alkoxysilane composition followed by a film-forming polymer and heat treatment, which includes a coloring agent, to create a durable and homogeneous color coating on keratin fibers.
The process results in a smooth, long-lasting color coating on keratin fibers that resists shampooing and external aggressions such as brushing and perspiration without damaging the hair.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: A method for coloring keratin fibers comprising a step of applying at least one alkoxysilane, a film-forming polymer and a coloring agent, and a heat treatment step
[0001] The present invention relates to a method for coloring keratin fibers such as hair, comprising applying to the keratin fibers at least one composition A comprising at least one alkoxysilane selected from compounds of formula (I), (1') or (II), applying to the keratin fibers at least one composition B comprising at least one film-forming polymer, and applying heat and steam to the keratin fibers. Said composition A and / or composition B comprise at least one coloring agent selected from pigments, direct dyes, and mixtures thereof.
[0002] In the field of staining keratin fibers, particularly human fibers, it is already known to stain keratin fibers by different techniques from direct dyes or pigments for non-permanent staining or from dye precursors for permanent staining.
[0003] There are essentially three types of hair coloring processes: a) so-called permanent coloring which has the function of bringing about a significant change in the natural color and which uses oxidation dyes which penetrate the hair fiber and form the dye by a process of oxidative condensation; b) non-permanent, semi-permanent or direct coloring, which does not implement the oxidative condensation process and resists 4 or 5 shampoos; consists of dyeing the keratin fibers with dye compositions containing direct dyes. c) Temporary hair coloring, which results in a change to the natural hair color that lasts from one shampoo to the next and serves to enhance or correct an existing shade. It can also be considered a "makeup" procedure.
[0004] For this latter type of coloring, it is known to use pigments. Indeed, the use of pigment on the surface of keratin fibers generally makes it possible to obtain visible colorings on dark hair since the pigment on the surface masks the natural color of the fiber.
[0005] However, the colors obtained by this coloring method have the disadvantage of having low resistance to shampoos as well as to external agents such as sebum, perspiration, brushing and / or friction.
[0006] There therefore remains a need for a process of coloring keratin fibers, in particular hair, which has the advantage of obtaining a homogeneous and smooth colored coating on the hair, while forming a coating that is resistant to shampoos and to the various aggressions that hair can undergo such as brushing and / or rubbing without damaging the hair.
[0007] Thus, the object of the present invention is to develop a process for coloring keratin fibers, in particular hair, which has the advantage of obtaining a homogeneous and smooth colored coating on the hair, while forming a coating that is resistant to shampoos and to the various aggressions that hair can undergo such as brushing, perspiration and / or friction without degrading the hair.
[0008] The applicant has surprisingly discovered that all of these objectives can be achieved by the process according to the present invention.
[0009] The present invention relates to a method for coloring keratin fibers such as hair, comprising at least the following steps: a) an application step on keratin fibers of at least one composition A comprising at least one alkoxysilane selected from compounds of formula (I), (1') or (II) as described below, b) an application step on keratin fibers of at least one composition B, different from composition A, comprising at least one film-forming polymer, (c) a step of applying heat and steam to the keratin fibers; it being understood that: - Composition A and / or composition B comprises at least one coloring agent selected from pigments, direct colorants, and mixtures thereof; and - step a) is implemented before steps b) and c).
[0010] It has been observed that keratin fibers treated according to the process of the invention exhibit good coloration. More specifically, the treated keratin fibers have a homogeneous and smooth colored coating.
[0011] Furthermore, by using this process according to the invention, colored coatings are obtained on the keratin fibers which are permanent against shampoos and against external aggressions which the keratin fibers may undergo such as brushing, rubbing and perspiration.
[0012] Other objects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will become even clearer upon reading the description and example that follows.
[0013] In this description, and unless otherwise indicated: - the expression "at least one" is equivalent to the expression "one or more" and can be substituted for it. - The expression "between... and..." is equivalent to the expression "ranging from... to..." and can be substituted for it, and implies that the terminals are included. - By the expression "greater than" and respectively the expression "less than" in the meaning of the present invention, we mean an open interval that is strictly greater than, respectively strictly less than, and therefore that the bounds are not included. - For the purposes of this application, "keratin fibers" refers particularly to human keratin fibers such as hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, and body hair, preferably hair, eyebrows and eyelashes, and even more preferably hair. - For the purposes of this invention, "hair" means the hair on the head. This term does not include body hair, eyebrows, or eyelashes. - For the purposes of this invention, "silicone" means any organosilicon polymer or oligomer with a linear or cyclic, branched or cross-linked structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and / or polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes, and consisting essentially of a repetition of principal motifs in which silicon atoms are linked together by oxygen atoms (siloxane bond -Si-O-Si-), with hydrocarbon radicals possibly substituted, being directly linked via a carbon atom to said silicon atoms. - an "alkyl" radical refers to a linear or branched, saturated radical, containing for example from 1 to 30 carbon atoms; - an "aminoalkyl" radical refers to an alkyl radical as defined above, said alkyl radical comprising an NH2 group; - a "hydroxyalkyl" radical refers to an alkyl radical as defined above, said alkyl radical comprising an OH group; - an "alkylene" radical refers to a divalent saturated hydrocarbon group in Ci-Cio, linear or branched, such as methylene, ethylene, or propylene; - A "cycloalkyl" or "alicycloalkyl" radical designates a saturated mono- or polycyclic hydrocarbon group, preferably monocyclic, comprising from 1 to 3 rings, preferably 2 rings, and comprising from 3 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular comprising from 3 to 24 carbon atoms, more particularly from 3 to 20 carbon atoms, even more particularly from 3 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably between 5 and 10 carbon atoms, such as cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, cycloheptyl, norbornyl, or isobotyl, in particular cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl, or a cyclohexyl. It being understood that the cycloalkyl radical may be substituted by one or more (Ci-C4)alkyl groups such as methyl; preferably, the cycloalkyl radical is then an isobotyl group. - an "aryl" radical is an unsaturated, aromatic, hydrocarbon cyclic radical, comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably between 6 and 14 atoms of carbon, more preferably between 6 and 12 mono / bi / or tri / cyclic carbon atoms, fused or not, preferably the aryl group comprises 1 ring of 6 carbon atoms such as phenyl, naphthyl, anthryl, phenanthryl and biphenyl, it being understood that the aryl radical may be substituted by one or more (CrC4)alkyl groups such as methyl, preferably tolyl, xylyl, or methylnaphthyl, preferably the aryl group represents a phenyl; - an "aryloxy" radical refers to an aryl-oxy radical with "aryl" as defined previously; - an "alkoxy" radical refers to an alkyl-oxy radical with "alkyl", as defined previously.
[0014] Unless otherwise indicated, when compounds are mentioned in this application, this also includes their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, their tautomers, their salts, alone or in mixtures.
[0015] The invention is not limited to the illustrated examples. The features of the different examples can, in particular, be combined within non-illustrated variants.
[0016] Composition A: The process according to the invention includes at least the application to the keratin fibers of at least one composition A comprising at least one alkoxysilane selected from the compounds of formula (I), (!') or (II).
[0017] Alkoxysilanes of formula (I), (D or (II): According to the invention, composition A comprises at least one alkoxysilane selected from the compounds of formula (I), (I') or (II) below, their oligomers and / or mixtures thereof.
[0018] The compounds of formula (I) or (I') have the following formulas: in which: - Ra represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, more preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as a methyl, said alkyl group possibly being substituted by an aryl group; an alkoxy group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as an ethoxy; or an aryl group having from 6 to 12 carbon atoms; Rb and Rc; identical or different represent a hydrogen atom; an alkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, in particular an ethyl group, it being understood that if Ra does not represent an alkoxy group, then Rb and Rc cannot simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom; Rd and Re, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom; an alkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and especially from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; a cycloalkyl group having from 3 to 20 carbon atoms; an aryl group having from 6 to 12 carbon atoms; an aminoalkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms; - A independently represents an alkylene group having from 1 to 10 linear or branched carbon atoms, which may be interrupted by at least one heteroatom chosen from O, S, NH or a carbonyl group (CO), preferably NH - Q represents a carbonyl group (CO); - r denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 1.
[0019] Among the alkoxysilanes of formula (I), their oligomers and / or mixtures, we may mention in particular 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), 3-aminopropylmethyldiethoxysilane (APMDES), 3-ureidopropyltrimethoxysilane and N-cyclohexylaminomethyltriethoxysilane.
[0020] APTES can, for example, be purchased from the company DOW CORNING under the name XIAMETER OFS-6011 SILANE or with the company MOMENTIVE PERFORMANCE MATERIALS under the name SILSOFT A-1100 or with the company SHIN ETSU under the name KBE-903.
[0021] The compounds of formula (I) may also refer to DYNASYLAN SIVO 210 or DYNASYLAN 1505 sold by the company EVONIK.
[0022] 3-ureidopropyltrimethoxysilane can for example be purchased from the company Gelest under the name SIU9058.0.
[0023] N-cyclohexylaminomethyl triethoxysilane can for example be purchased from the company WACKER under the name GENIOSIL XL 926.
[0024] Among the alkoxysilanes of formula (T), their oligomers and / or mixtures thereof, the following may be mentioned in particular: N,N-Bis[3-(trimethoxysilyl)propyl]ethylenediamine (CAS RN: 74956-86-8), Nl,Nl-Bis[3-(triethoxysilyl)propyl]-l,2-ethanediamine (CAS RN: 457065-96-2), 1,2-ethanediamine, Nl-[3-(triethoxysilyl)propyl]-Nl-[3-(trimethoxysilyl)propyl]- (CAS RN: 1638528-78-5), and their mixtures.
[0025] Preferably, the alkoxysilane(s) of formula (I) are chosen from the following compounds of formula (I): in which: - Ra represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, in particular from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl, or an alkoxy group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 2 carbon atoms, preferably an ethoxy; - Rb and Rc, identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms like an ethyl; - Rd and Re, identical, represent a hydrogen atom or Rd designates a hydrogen atom and Re designates a C5-C6 cycloalkyl radical such as cyclohexyl; - A independently represents an alkylene group having from 1 to 10 linear or branched carbon atoms, which can be interrupted by at least one heteroatom chosen from O, S, NH or a carbonyl group (CO), preferably NH; - r denotes an integer equal to 0.
[0026] Preferably, the alkoxysilane(s) of formula (I) are chosen from compounds of formula (I) for which Ra represents an ethoxy group, Rb and Rc are identical and represent an ethyl, Rd and Re represent a hydrogen atom, A represents a propylene and r denotes an integer equal to 0.
[0027] According to a preferred embodiment, alkoxysilane of formula (I) is the 3 - aminopropyltriethoxy silane (APTES).
[0028] Preferably, the alkoxysilane(s) of formula (I) and / or of formula (!'), their oligomers and / or mixtures thereof are present in composition A in a total quantity ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight, more preferably still from 0.75% to 25% by weight, better from 1% to 20% by weight, even better from 1.5% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A. Preferably, the alkoxysilane(s) of formula (I), their oligomers and / or mixtures thereof are present in composition A in a total quantity ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight, more preferably from 0.75% to 25% by weight, better from 1% to 20% by weight, even better from 1.5% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A. Preferably, the total content of 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane in composition A ranges from 0.1% to 40% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight, more preferably still from 0.75% to 25% by weight, better from 1% to 20% by weight, even better from 1.5% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A.
[0029] The compounds of formula (II) have the following formula: in which: - Ra represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, more preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as a methyl, said alkyl group possibly being substituted by an aryl group; an alkoxy group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as an ethoxy; or an aryl group having from 6 to 12 carbon atoms; - Rb represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, in particular an ethyl group; - Rc represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, more preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as a methyl, said alkyl group possibly being substituted by an aryl group; an alkoxy group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as an ethoxy; or an aryl group having from 6 to 12 carbon atoms; it being understood that if Ra and Rc do not represent an alkoxy group, then Rb cannot represent a hydrogen atom; - k denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 5, preferably ranging from 0 to 3; - Rf represents a hydrogen atom; an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; or a group with the following formula (lia): (Ha) in which Rn represents a hydroxyl (OH) group; an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl.
[0030] Among the alkoxysilanes of formula (II), their oligomers and / or mixtures thereof, particular examples include tetraethoxysilane (TEOS), methyltrimethoxysilane (MTMS), methyltriethoxysilane (MTES), dimethyltriethoxysilane (DMDES), diethyltriethoxysilane, dipropyltriethoxysilane, propyltriethoxysilane, risobutyltriethoxysilane, phenyltriethoxysilane, phenylmethyltriethoxysilane, diphenyltriethoxysilane, benzyltriethoxysilane, benzylmethyltriethoxysilane, di-benzyltriethoxysilane, acetoxymethyltriethoxysilane and mixtures thereof.
[0031] TEOS can for example be purchased from the company EVONIK under the name Dynasylan® A or Dynasylan® A SQ.
[0032] MTES can for example be purchased from the company EVONIK under the name Dynasylan® MTES.
[0033] The DMDES can for example be purchased from the company GELEST under the reference SID3404.0.
[0034] Preferably, the alkoxysilane(s) of formula (II), their oligomers and / or mixtures thereof are such that: - Ra represents an alkoxy group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as a methoxy or an ethoxy; or an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms possibly substituted by an aryl group, preferably 1 to 2 carbon atoms possibly substituted by an aryl group; - Rb represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as a methyl or an ethyl; - Rc represents an alkoxy group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as a methoxy or an ethoxy - k denotes an integer from 0 to 3, preferably equal to 0; - Rf represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as a methyl or an ethyl.
[0035] More preferably, the alkoxysilane(s) of formula (II), their oligomers and / or mixtures thereof are such that: - Ra represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as a methyl or an ethyl; - Rb represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as a methyl or an ethyl; - Rc represents an alkoxy group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as a methoxy or an ethoxy - k denotes an integer equal to 0; - Rf represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as a methyl or an ethyl.
[0036] According to a preferred embodiment, the alkoxysilane(s) of formula (II) are methyltrimethoxysilane (MTMS) and / or methyltriethoxysilane (MTES).
[0037] Preferably, the alkoxysilane(s) of formula (II), its oligomers and / or mixtures thereof are present in composition A in a total quantity ranging from 0.5% to 90% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 75%, more preferably still from 3% to 45% by weight, better from 5% to 40% by weight, even better from 10% to 40% by weight, or even from 20% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A. Preferably, when composition A includes methyltrimethoxysilane (MTMS) and / or methyltriethoxysilane (MTES), the total content of methyltrimethoxysilane (MTMS) and / or methyltriethoxysilane (MTES) in composition A ranges from 0.5% to 90% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 75%, more preferably still from 3% to 45% by weight, better from 5% to 40% by weight, even better from 10% to 40% by weight, or even from 20% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A.
[0038] By "oligomer", in the context of the present invention, means an alkoxysilane comprising at least 2 silicon atoms obtained by oligomerization or polymerization of compounds of formula (I), (I') or (II); preferably 2 to 10 times, more preferably 2 to 5 times, the same motif of formula (I), (T) or (II).
[0039] Preferably, composition A comprises at least one alkoxysilane selected from compounds of formula (I), (T) or (II), and mixtures thereof.
[0040] Preferably, the alkoxysilane(s) in composition A are chosen from compounds of formula (I), compounds of formula (II), their oligomers, and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the alkoxysilane(s) in composition A are chosen from compounds of formula (I), compounds of formula (II), and mixtures thereof.
[0041] Preferably, the alkoxysilane(s) are chosen from 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane, methyltrimethoxysilane, methyltriethoxysilane, and mixtures thereof.
[0042] More preferably, composition A comprises at least a first alkoxysilane selected from said compounds of formula (I) or (I'), and at least a second alkoxysilane selected from said compounds of formula (II).
[0043] More preferably still, composition A comprises at least a first al- coxysilane selected from said compounds of formula (I), and at least one second al-coxysilane selected from said compounds of formula (II).
[0044] Even better, composition A comprises 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane as the first alkoxysilane, and at least one second alkoxysilane selected from methyltrimethoxysilane, methyltriethoxysilane and mixtures thereof.
[0045] In a particularly preferred manner, composition A comprises 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane as the first alkoxysilane, and methyltriethoxysilane as the second alkoxysilane.
[0046] Preferably, the total alkoxysilane(s) content in composition A ranges from 1% to 90% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 80% by weight, more preferably still from 10% to 70% by weight, better from 20% to 60% by weight, even better from 30% to 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A.
[0047] Preferably, when the alkoxysilane(s) in composition A are chosen from 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane, methyltrimethoxysilane, methyltriethoxysilane, and mixtures thereof, the total alkoxysilane(s) content in composition A ranges from 1% to 90% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 80% by weight, more preferably still from 10% to 70% by weight, better from 20% to 60% by weight, even better from 30% to 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A.
[0048] Organic solvents: Preferably, composition A implemented in the process according to the invention may further comprise at least one organic solvent.
[0049] Examples of organic solvents include Ci-C4 alkanols such as ethanol and isopropanol; polyols and polyol ethers such as glycerol, 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-noethyl ether and monomethyl ether, as well as aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.
[0050] Preferably, the organic solvent(s) are chosen from ethanol, isopropanol, glycerol, 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, benzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.
[0051] More preferably, composition A comprises ethanol.
[0052] Preferably, the total content of organic solvent(s) in composition A ranges from 1% to 70% by weight, preferably from 5% to 55% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A.
[0053] Preferably, composition A is anhydrous.
[0054] By "anhydrous composition" is meant a composition comprising a water content of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. Preferably, this water content is less than 1% by weight. weight, preferably less than 0.5%, or even less than 0.3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. More specifically, it contains no water (0%).
[0055] In particular, said anhydrous composition does not include any water added during its preparation, any residual water present possibly originating from the raw materials used during the preparation.
[0056] Composition B: The process according to the invention comprises at least the application to keratin fibers of at least one composition B comprising at least one film-forming polymer.
[0057] Composition B differs from composition A described above. Advantageously, composition B does not comprise the same ingredients as composition A.
[0058] Film-forming polymers: Composition B according to the invention comprises at least one film-forming polymer.
[0059] Preferably, the film-forming polymer(s) are selected from hydrophilic film-forming polymers, hydrophobic film-forming polymers, and mixtures thereof.
[0060] By "hydrophobic polymer" is meant a polymer having a solubility in water at 25°C strictly less than 1% by weight.
[0061] By "hydrophilic polymer" is meant a polymer having a solubility in water at 25°C greater than or equal to 1% by weight.
[0062] By "film-forming" polymer, we mean a polymer capable of forming, on its own or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a macroscopically continuous film on a support, in particular on keratinous materials, and preferably a cohesive film.
[0063] According to a preferred embodiment, the film-forming polymer(s) are chosen from hydrophobic film-forming polymers.
[0064] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the hydrophobic film-forming polymer is a polymer selected from the group comprising: - film-forming polymers soluble in an organic solvent medium, in particular liposoluble polymers; this means that the polymer is soluble or miscible in the organic medium and will form a single homogeneous phase when incorporated into the medium. - Film-forming polymers dispersible in an organic solvent medium; this means that the polymer forms an insoluble phase in the organic medium, the polymer remaining stable and / or compatible once incorporated into this medium. In particular, such polymers can be in the form of non-aqueous dispersions of polymer particles, preferably dispersions in silicone or hydrocarbon oils; in one embodiment, the non-aqueous polymer dispersions comprise polymer particles stabilized on their surface by at least one stabilizing agent; these non-aqueous dispersions are often called "NAD (non-aqueous dispersions)". - Film-forming polymers in the form of aqueous dispersions of polymer particles mean that the polymer forms a water-insoluble phase. The polymer remains stable and / or compatible once incorporated into water, and the polymer particles can be stabilized on their surface by at least one stabilizing agent. These polymer particles are often called "latex"; in this case, the composition must include an aqueous phase.
[0065] Among the hydrophobic film-forming polymers that can be used in the composition of the present invention, we can mention synthetic polymers, of radical type or of polycondensate type, polymers of natural origin and their mixtures.
[0066] Examples of hydrophobic film-forming polymers include acrylic polymers, polyurethanes, polyesters, polyamides, polyureas, cellulosic polymers such as nitrocellulose, silicone polymers, acrylamide-type polymers, and polyisoprenes.
[0067] Non-ionic, amphoteric, anionic or cationic hydrophobic film-forming polymers may be used.
[0068] Preferably, the hydrophobic film-forming polymer(s) according to the invention are chosen from acrylic acid copolymers, methacrylic acid copolymers, acrylic acid ester homopolymers or copolymers, methacrylic acid ester homopolymers or copolymers, acrylic acid amide homopolymers or copolymers, methacrylic acid amide homopolymers or copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, vinyl alcohol copolymers, vinyl acetate copolymers, ethylene homopolymers or copolymers, propylene homopolymers or copolymers, styrene homopolymers or copolymers, polyurethanes, polyesters and / or polyamides.
[0069] The hydrophobic film-forming polymer can be selected from homopolymers and copolymers of olefins such as cycloolefins; butadiene; isoprene; styrene; vinyl ethers, esters or amides; (meth)acrylic acid esters or amides containing a linear, branched or cyclic Ci-C20 alkyl group, a C6-Ci0 aryl group or a C2-C6 hydroxyalkyl group.
[0070] The hydrophobic film-forming polymer can be selected in particular from homopolymers and copolymers that can be obtained from monomers selected from the group consisting of isooctyl (meth)acrylate, isononyl (meth)acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl (meth)acrylate, lauryl (meth)acrylate, isopentyl (meth)acrylate, n-butyl (meth)acrylate, isobutyl (meth)acrylate, ethyl (meth)acrylate, methyl (meth)acrylate, tert-butyl (meth)acrylate, tridecyl (meth)acrylate, stearyl (meth)acrylate, hydroxyethyl (meth)acrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl (meth)acrylate, benzyl acrylate or of phenyl, or mixtures thereof.
[0071] One can cite for example the ethylene / sodium acrylate copolymer marketed under the trade name ECOSMOOTH SATIN® by the company Dow.
[0072] The hydrophobic film-forming polymer can in particular be chosen from among the homo-polymers and copolymers that can be obtained from amides of acid monomers, we can mention (meth)acrylamides, and in particular N-alkyl (meth)acrylamides, in particular of alkyl in C2-Ci2 such as N-ethyl acrylamide, Nt-butyl acrylamide, N-octyl acrylamide; N-dialkyl (C1-C4) (meth)acrylamides, perfluoroalkyl (meth)acrylates.
[0073] We can also mention copolymers whose CTFA designation (4th Ed., 1991) is Octylacrylamide / acrylates / butylaminoethyl-methacrylate copolymer, such as the products sold under the name AMPHOMER® or LOVOCRYL® 47 by the company NATIONAL STARCH as well as copolymers whose CTFA designation is Acrylates / octylacrylamide copolymer, such as the products sold under the name DERMACRYL® LT or DERMACRYL® 79 by the company NATIONAL STARCH. According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrophobic film-forming polymer(s) according to the invention are chosen from anionic copolymers.
[0074] Preferably, the anionic copolymers according to the invention are copolymers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or (meth)acrylic acid esters containing a linear, branched or cyclic Ci-C6 alkyl group, as described under the INCI name Acrylates.
[0075] Such copolymers are marketed by the company ROHM AND HAAS under the name Aculyn®33.
[0076] Copolymers of unsaturated ethylenic acid esters and alkoxylated fatty alcohols can also be used according to the invention. Such unsaturated ethylenic acid esters are in particular acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and itaconic acid, and such alkoxylated fatty alcohols are in particular steareth-20 and ceteth-20.
[0077] Examples include Aculyn®22 (Acrylates / Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer), Aculyn®28 (Acrylates / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer), Structure 2001® (Acrylates / Steareth-20 Itaconate Copolymer), Structure 3001® (Acrylates / Ceteth-20 Itaconate Copolymer), Structure Plus® (Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl PEG-20 Itaconate Amino-acrylate Copolymer), Carbopol® 1342, 1382, Ultrez 20, Ultrez 21 (Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer), Synthalen W2000® (Acrylates / Palmeth-25 Acrylate Copolymer) or SOLTEX OPT (copolymer acrylates / Ci2-22 alkyl methacrylate) marketed by the company ROHM AND HAAS.
[0078] The hydrophobic film-forming polymer can also be chosen from among the homo- Polymers and copolymers can be obtained from vinyl monomers. Examples include homopolymers or copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone, vinylca-prolactam, vinyl N-alkyl(Ci-C6)pyrroles, vinyl-oxazoles, vinyl-thiazoles, vinylpyrimidine, and vinylimidazole.
[0079] Examples of vinylpyrrolidone copolymers that can be used in the invention include VP / vinyl laurate copolymer, VP / vinyl stearate copolymer, butylated polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), VP / hexadecene marketed by ISP under the name Ganex V216, VP / eicosene marketed by ISP under the name Ganex V220, VP / triacontene or VP / acrylic acid / lauryl methacrylate.
[0080] The hydrophobic film-forming polymer can also be chosen from homopolymers and copolymers that can be obtained from olefins such as ethylene, propylene, butenes, isoprene, butadienes.
[0081] In one embodiment, the hydrophobic film-forming polymer according to the invention is a block copolymer comprising at least one block made of styrene or styrene derivative units (for example, methylstyrene, chlorostyrene, or chloromethylstyrene). The copolymer comprising at least one styrene block may be a diblock or triblock copolymer, or even a multiblock, star, or radial copolymer. The copolymer comprising at least one styrene block may further comprise, for example, an alkylstyrene block (AS), an ethylene / butylene block (EB), an ethylene / propylene block (EP), a butadiene block (B), an isoprene block (I), an acrylate block (A), a methacrylate block (MA), or a combination of these blocks.The copolymer comprising at least one block made up of styrene motifs or styrene derivatives may be a diblock or triblock copolymer, and in particular of the polystyrene / polyisoprene or polystyrene / polybutadiene type, such as those marketed or manufactured under the name "Luvitol HSB" by BASF SE.
[0082] Preferably, the hydrophobic film-forming polymer(s) according to the invention are chosen from vinylpyrrolidone (co)polymers, vinylalcohol (co)polymers, vinylacetate (co)polymers, carboxyvinyl (co)polymers, acrylic acid (co)polymers, methacrylic acid (co)polymers, acrylic acid ester (co)polymers, ethylene (co)polymers, acrylamide (co)polymers and mixtures thereof.
[0083] More preferably, the hydrophobic film-forming polymer(s) are chosen from polyvinylpyrrolidone copolymers, acrylamide copolymers, acrylic acid ester homopolymers or copolymers, ethylene homopolymers or copolymers and mixtures thereof.
[0084] According to another preferred embodiment, the film-forming polymer(s) are chosen from among hydrophilic film-forming polymers.
[0085] Non-ionic, anionic or cationic hydrophilic film-forming polymers may be used.
[0086] The hydrophilic film-forming polymer can be selected from vinyl-pyrrolidone (co)polymers, vinyl alcohol (co)polymers, vinyl acetate polymers, carboxyvinyl (co)polymers, acrylic acid (co)polymers, methacrylic acid (co)polymers, natural gums, polysaccharides and / or acrylamide (co)polymers.
[0087] Preferably, the hydrophilic film-forming polymer is chosen from vinylpyrrolidone (PVP) homopolymers and / or vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, more preferably vinylpyrrolidone (PVP) homopolymers.
[0088] Examples include vinylpyrrolidone (PVP) homopolymers marketed under the name Luviskol® K by BASF SE, in particular Luviskol® K 90 or Luviskol® K 85 by BASF SE.
[0089] The PVP K30 polymer marketed by Ashland Inc. (ISP, POI Chemical) can also be used. PVP K30 is a cold-water soluble polyvinylpyrrolidone polymer with CAS number 9003-39-8 and a molecular weight of 40.000 g / mol.
[0090] Other vinylpyrrolidone homopolymers suitable for the invention are marketed under the trade name LUVITEC K 17, LUVITEC K 30, LUVITEC K 60, LUVITEC K 60, LUVITEC K 80, LUVITEC K 85, LUVITEC K 90 and LUVITEC K 115 by BASF SE.
[0091] We can also mention the vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers marketed under the name Luviskol® by BASF SE, in particular the non-ionic polymers Luviskol® VA64 and Luviskol® VA73 (vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers).
[0092] We can also mention styrene / vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / DMAPA acrylates copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl caprolactam / DMAPA acrylates copolymers.
[0093] Vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl caprolactam / DMAPA acrylates copolymers may be marketed by Ashland Inc. under the trade name Aquaflex® SF-40.
[0094] Vinylpyrrolidone / DMAPA acrylates copolymers may be marketed by Ashland Inc. under the trade name Styleze CC-10.
[0095] As copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, mention may be made of copolymers obtained by reaction of N-vinylpyrrolidone with at least one monomer chosen from N-vinylformamide, vinyl acetate, ethylene, propylene, acrylamide or vinylca-prolactam.
[0096] According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrophilic film-forming polymer(s) are selected from vinylpyrrolidone (PVP) homopolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / styrene copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / ethylene copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / propylene copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl caprolactam copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinylformamide copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl alcohol copolymers, and mixtures thereof.
[0097] Preferably, the film-forming polymer(s) are selected from vinylpyrrolidone (PVP) homopolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / styrene copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / ethylene copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / propylene copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl caprolactam copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinylformamide copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinylalcohol copolymers, acrylamide copolymers, acrylic acid ester homopolymers or copolymers, ethylene homopolymers or copolymers and mixtures thereof.
[0098] More preferably, the film-forming polymer(s) are chosen from vinylpyrrolidone (PVP) homopolymers, acrylamide copolymers, acrylic acid ester homopolymers or copolymers, ethylene homopolymers or copolymers and mixtures thereof.
[0099] More preferably, the film-forming polymer(s) are chosen from among ethylene homopolymers or copolymers; better still, ethylene / sodium acrylate copolymers.
[0100] Preferably, the total content of film-forming polymer(s) in composition B ranges from 0.1% to 30% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 25% by weight, more preferably still from 1% to 20% by weight, better from 2% to 20% by weight, even better from 3% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B.
[0101] Preferably, the total content of ethylene homopolymer(s) and copolymer(s) in composition B ranges from 0.1% to 30% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 25% by weight, more preferably still from 1% to 20% by weight, better from 2% to 20% by weight, even better from 3% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B.
[0102] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, composition B does not comprise alkoxysilane of formula (I), (!') or (II) as described above.
[0103] Preferably, composition B comprises water.
[0104] Preferably, the total water content in composition B ranges from 10% to 99% by weight, more preferably from 40% to 98% by weight, more preferably still from 50% to 97% by weight, better from 60% to 96% by weight, and even better from 70% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B.
[0105] Preferably, the weight ratio of the total alkoxysilane(s) content in the com Position A, the total content of film-forming polymer(s) in composition B is between 1 and 20; more preferably between 2 and 16; more preferably still between 5 and 15
[0106] Preferably, the weight ratio of the total content of 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane, methyltrimethoxysilane and methyltriethoxysilane in composition A, to the total content of ethylene homopolymer(s) and copolymer(s) in composition B is between 1 and 20; more preferably between 2 and 16; more preferably still between 5 and 15.
[0107] Composition A and / or B: Composition A and / or composition B implemented in the process according to the invention comprises at least one coloring agent selected from pigments, direct dyes, and mixtures thereof. Composition A and / or composition B implemented in the process according to the invention may optionally further comprise at least one non-ionic cellulosic polymer, preferably non-associative.
[0108] Coloring agents: Composition A and / or composition B comprises (include) at least one colouring agent selected from pigments, direct dyes and mixtures thereof.
[0109] Preferably, composition A according to the invention comprises at least one coloring agent selected from pigments, direct colorants and their mixtures.
[0110] Preferably, composition A and / or composition B according to the invention comprises (include) one or more pigments.
[0111] Preferably, the colouring agent(s) are chosen from pigments.
[0112] By "pigment" is meant all pigments that impart color to keratinous materials. Their solubility in water at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) is less than 0.05% by weight, and preferably less than 0.01% by weight (i.e., gram of pigment per liter of water).
[0113] The pigments that can be used are in particular chosen from among the organic and / or mineral pigments known in the art, in particular those described in Kirk-Othmer's Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology and in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry.
[0114] They may be natural, of natural origin, or not.
[0115] These pigments may be in the form of a powder or pigment paste. They may be coated or uncoated.
[0116] Pigments can, for example, be chosen from mineral pigments, organic pigments, lacquers, special effect pigments such as mother-of-pearl or glitter, and mixtures thereof.
[0117] The pigment may be a mineral pigment. By mineral pigment is meant any pigment that meets the definition in the Ullmann encyclopedia in the chapter on inorganic pigment. Examples of mineral pigments useful in the present invention include iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue, titanium oxide, and stannic oxide (tin oxide).
[0118] The pigment may be an organic pigment. By "organic pigment" is meant any pigment that meets the definition in the Ullmann encyclopedia in the chapter on organic pigment.
[0119] The organic pigment may in particular be selected from the following compounds: nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline, quinoline, anthraquinone, triphenylmethane, fluorane, phthalocyanine, metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, qui-nacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, indigo, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone.
[0120] In particular, the white or colored organic pigments may be selected from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, the blue pigments coded in the Color Index under references Cl 42090, 69800, 69825, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments coded in the Color Index under references Cl 11680, 11710, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the green pigments coded in the Color Index under references Cl 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments coded in the Color Index under reference CI 11725, 45370, 71105, the red pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole, phenolic derivatives as described in patent FR 2 679 771.
[0121] By way of example, one can also cite organic pigment pastes such as the products sold by the company HOECHST under the name: - COSMENYL YELLOW IOG: Pigment YELLOW 3 (Cl 11710); - COSMENYL YELLOW G: Pigment YELLOW 1 (Cl 11680); - ORANGE COSMENYL GR: Pigment ORANGE 43 (Cl 71105); - COSMENYL RED R: Pigment RED 4 (Cl 12085); - CARMIN COSMENYL FB: Pigment RED 5 (Cl 12490); - VIOLET COSMENYL RL: Pigment VIOLET 23 (Cl 51319); - COSMENYL BLUE A2R: Pigment BLUE 15.1 (Cl 74160); - VERT COSMENYL GG: Pigment GREEN 7 (Cl 74260); - COSMENYL BLACK R: Pigment BLACK 7 (Cl 77266).
[0122] The pigments according to the invention may also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These pigments composites may be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core, at least one binder ensuring the fixation of organic pigments on the core, and at least one organic pigment covering at least partially the core.
[0123] The organic pigment can also be a lake. By lake, we mean colorants adsorbed onto insoluble particles, the whole thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.
[0124] The inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminium borosilicate, and aluminium.
[0125] Among the colorants, carminic acid can be mentioned. We can also mention the colorants known under the following names: D & C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D & C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D & C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D & C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D & C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D & C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D & C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D & C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D & C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D & C Green (CI 61 570), D & C Yellow 1 O (CI 77 002), D & C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D & C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).
[0126] As examples of lacquers, we can cite the product known under the following name: D & C Red 7 (CI 15 850 :1).
[0127] The pigment can also be a special effects pigment. Special effects pigments are defined as pigments that generally create a non-uniform and changing colored appearance (characterized by a certain shade, vibrancy, and clarity) depending on the viewing conditions (light, temperature, viewing angles, etc.). They are thus distinct from colored pigments that provide a uniform opaque, semi-transparent, or conventionally transparent tint.
[0128] There are several types of special effect pigments, those with a low refractive index such as fluorescent or photochromic pigments, and those with a higher refractive index such as mother-of-pearl, interference pigments or glitter.
[0129] Examples of special effect pigments include pearlescent pigments such as titanium-coated mica or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium-coated mica and iron oxides, iron oxide-coated mica, titanium-coated mica, particularly ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium-coated mica and an organic pigment as defined above, and bismuth oxychloride-based pearlescent pigments. Examples of pearlescent pigments include Cellini pearls marketed by BASF (Mica-TiO2-lake), Prestige marketed by Eckart (Mica-TiO2), Prestige Bronze marketed by Eckart (Mica-Fe2O3), Syncrystal marketed by Eckart (Mica-TiO2-SnO2), and Colorona marketed by Merck (Mica-TiO2-Fe2O3).
[0130] We can also mention gold-colored mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by the BASF under the names Brilliant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); bronze mother-of-pearls notably marketed by MERCK under the names Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by BASF under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); orange mother-of-pearls notably marketed by BASF under the names Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by MERCK under the names Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (Microna); brown-tinted mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by BASF under the names Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); copper-tinted mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by BASF under the name Copper 340A (Timica);red-tinted mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by MERCK under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); yellow-tinted mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by BASF under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); red-tinted mother-of-pearl with a gold sheen, notably marketed by BASF under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); pink mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by BASF under the name Tan opale G005 (Gemtone);black mother-of-pearl with a gold sheen, notably marketed by BASF under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica); blue mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by MERCK under the name Matte blue (17433) (Microna); white mother-of-pearl with a silver sheen, notably marketed by MERCK under the name Xirona Silver; and orange-pink-green-gold mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by MERCK under the name Indian summer (Xirona), and their mixtures.
[0131] As further examples of nacres, we can also mention particles comprising a borosilicate substrate coated with titanium oxide.
[0132] Particles with a glass substrate coated with titanium oxide are notably sold under the name METASHINE MC1080RY by the company TOYAL.
[0133] Finally, examples of mother-of-pearl include polyethylene terephthalate flakes, particularly those marketed by Meadowbrook Inventions under the name Silver IP 0.004X0.004 (silver flakes). Multilayer pigments based on synthetic substrates such as alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum can also be considered.
[0134] Special effect pigments can also be chosen from reflective particles, that is to say, in particular, particles whose size, structure, including the thickness of the layer(s) which constitute them and their physical and chemical nature, and surface condition, enable them to reflect incident light. This reflection may, where appropriate, have sufficient intensity to create on the surface of the composition or mixture, when applied to the makeup support, points of highlighting visible to the naked eye, that is to say, brighter points which contrast with their environment by appearing to shine.
[0135] The reflective particles can be selected so as not to significantly alter the coloring effect generated by the coloring agents associated with them, and more particularly so as to optimize this effect in terms of color rendering. They may, in particular, have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or copper color or reflection.
[0136] These particles can have various shapes, including being platelet-shaped or globular, particularly spherical.
[0137] Reflective particles, whatever their shape, may or may not have a multilayer structure and, in the case of a multilayer structure, for example at least one layer of uniform thickness, in particular of a reflective material.
[0138] When reflective particles do not have a multilayer structure, they can be composed, for example, of metal oxides, in particular titanium or iron oxides obtained by synthesis.
[0139] When reflective particles have a multilayer structure, they may, for example, comprise a natural or synthetic substrate, in particular a synthetic substrate at least partially coated by at least one layer of a reflective material, in particular at least one metal or metallic material. The substrate may be monomaterial, multimaterial, organic and / or inorganic.
[0140] More particularly, it may be selected from glasses, ceramics, graphite, metal oxides, aluminas, silicas, silicates, in particular aluminosilicates and borosilicates, synthetic mica and their mixtures, this list not being exhaustive.
[0141] The reflective material may include a layer of metal or a metallic material.
[0142] Reflective particles are described in particular in documents JP-A-09188830, JP-A-10158450, JP-A-10158541, JP-A-07258460 and JP-A-05017710.
[0143] As further examples of reflective particles comprising a mineral substrate coated with a layer of metal, one can also mention particles comprising a borosilicate substrate coated with silver.
[0144] Silver-coated glass substrate particles in the form of wafers are sold under the name MICROGLASS METASHINE REFSX 2025 PS by the company TOYAL. Nickel / chromium / molybdenum alloy-coated glass substrate particles are sold under the names CRYSTAL STAR GF 550, GF 2525 by the same company.
[0145] Particles comprising a metallic substrate such as silver, aluminum, iron, chromium, nickel, molybdenum, gold, copper, zinc, tin, magnesium, steel, bronze, titanium may also be used, said substrate being coated with at least one layer of at least one metallic oxide such as titanium oxide, aluminum oxide, iron oxide, cerium oxide, chromium oxide, silicon oxides and mixtures thereof.
[0146] An example can be cited as aluminium, bronze or copper powders coated with SiO2 marketed under the name VISIONAIRE by the company ECKART.
[0147] Other examples include non-substrate interference pigments such as liquid crystals (Wacker's Helicones HC) and interference holographic glitter (Spectratek's Geometry Pigments or Spectra f / x). Special effect pigments also include fluorescent pigments, whether daylight fluorescent or ultraviolet fluorescent, phosphorescent pigments, photochromic pigments, thermochromic pigments, and quantum dots, marketed, for example, by Quantum Dots Corporation.
[0148] The variety of pigments that can be used in the present invention makes it possible to obtain a rich palette of colors, as well as particular optical effects such as metallic, interference effects.
[0149] The size of the pigment used in the composition according to the present invention is generally between 5 nm and 200 µm, preferably between 7 nm and 80 µm, and more preferably between 10 nm and 50 µm.
[0150] The pigments can be dispersed within the composition by means of a dispersing agent.
[0151] The dispersing agent serves to protect the dispersed particles from agglomeration or flocculation. This dispersing agent may be a surfactant, an oligomer, a polymer, or a mixture of several of these, possessing one or more functionalities with a strong affinity for the surface of the particles to be dispersed. In particular, they may adhere physically or chemically to the surface of the pigments. These dispersants also have at least one functional group that is compatible with or soluble in the continuous medium.In particular, esters of 12-hydroxystearic acid are used, especially C8 to C2o fatty acids and polyols such as glycerol, diglycerin, such as poly(12-hydroxystearic acid) stearate with a molecular weight of approximately 750g / mol such as that sold under the name Solsperse 21 000 by Avecia, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (name CTFA) sold under the reference Dehymyls PGPH by Henkel or polyhydroxystearic acid such as that sold under the reference Arlacel P100 by Uniqema and their mixtures.
[0152] As another dispersant that can be used in the compositions of the invention, one can mention quaternary ammonium derivatives of polycondensed fatty acids such as Solsperse 17 000 sold by Avecia, poly dimethylsiloxane / oxypropylene mixtures such as those sold by Dow Corning under the references DC2-5185, DC2-5225 C.
[0153] The pigments used in the composition can be surface treated with an organic agent.
[0154] Thus, the pigments previously surface-treated useful within the framework of the invention are pigments which have undergone totally or partially a surface treatment of a chemical, electronic, electro-chemical, mechano-chemical or mechanical nature, with an organic agent such as those described in particular in Cosmetics and Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, pp. 53-64 before being dispersed in the composition according to the invention.These organic agents can be chosen, for example, from waxes, such as carnauba wax and beeswax; fatty acids, fatty alcohols and their derivatives, such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid, stearyl alcohol, hydroxystearyl alcohol, lauric acid and their derivatives; anionic surfactants; lecithins; sodium, potassium, magnesium, iron, titanium, zinc or aluminum salts of fatty acids, for example aluminum stearate or laurate; metal alkoxides; polyethylene; (meth)acrylic polymers, for example polymethyl methacrylates; polymers and copolymers containing acrylate units; alkanoamines; silicone compounds, for example silicones, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes; fluorinated organic compounds, for example perfluoroalkyl ethers; Fluoro-silicon compounds.
[0155] The surface-treated pigments useful in the composition may also have been treated by a mixture of these compounds and / or have undergone several surface treatments.
[0156] The surface-treated pigments useful in the context of the present invention can be prepared according to surface treatment techniques well known to those skilled in the art or found as such in the commercial market.
[0157] Preferably, the surface-treated pigments are covered by an organic layer.
[0158] The organic agent with which the pigments are treated can be deposited on the pigments by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction between the molecules of the surfactant or creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the pigments.
[0159] Surface treatment can thus be achieved, for example, by a chemical reaction of a surfactant with the surface of the pigments and the creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the pigments or fillers. This method is described in particular in US patent 4,578,266.
[0160] Preferably, an organic agent covalently linked to the pigments will be used.
[0161] The surface treatment agent can represent from 0.1 to 50% by weight of the total weight of the pigment treated on the surface, preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, and even more preferably from 1 to 20% by weight of the total weight of the pigment treated on the surface.
[0162] Preferably, the surface treatments of the pigments are chosen from the following treatments: - a PEG-Silicone treatment such as the AQ surface treatment marketed by LCW; - a Methicone treatment such as the SI surface treatment marketed by LCW; - a Dimethicone treatment such as the Covasil 3.05 surface treatment marketed by LCW; - a Dimethicone / Trimethylsiloxysilicate treatment such as the Covasil 4.05 surface treatment marketed by LCW; - a Magnesium Myristate treatment such as the MM surface treatment marketed by LCW; - a Dimyristate Aluminium treatment such as the MI surface treatment marketed by Miyoshi; - a Perfluoropolymethylisopropyl ether treatment such as the FHC surface treatment marketed by LCW; - an Isostearyl Sebacate treatment such as the HS surface treatment marketed by Miyoshi; - a Perfluoroalkyl Phosphate treatment such as the PF surface treatment marketed by Daito; - an acrylate / dimethicone copolymer and perfluoalkyl phosphate treatment such as the FSA surface treatment marketed by Daito; - a Polymethylhydrogen siloxane / Perfluoroalkyl Phosphate treatment such as the FS01 surface treatment marketed by Daito; - an Acrylate / Dimethicone Copolymer treatment such as the ASC surface treatment marketed by Daito; - an Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate treatment such as the ITT surface treatment marketed by Daito; - an Acrylate copolymer treatment such as the APD surface treatment marketed by Daito; - a Perfluoroalkyl Phosphate / Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate treatment such as the PF + ITT surface treatment marketed by Daito.
[0163] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the dispersing agent is present with organic or inorganic pigments in submicron-sized particulate form in the coloring composition.
[0164] By "sub-micronic" or in English "sub-micronic" is meant pigments whose particle size has been micronized by micronization method and whose average particle size is less than one micrometer (pm), in particular between 0.1 and 0.9 pm, and preferably between 0.2 and 0.6 pm.
[0165] According to one embodiment, the dispersing agent and the pigment(s) are present in an amount (dispersant: pigment) between 1:4 and 4:1, particularly between 1.5:3.5 and 3.5:1 or better between 1.75:3 and 3:1.
[0166] The dispersing agent(s) may therefore have a silicone backbone, such as silicone polyether and amino-silicone dispersants, other than the al-coxysilanes of formula (I) or formula (T) previously described in the application. Suitable dispersing agents include: - amino-silicones, i.e. silicones comprising one or more amino groups, such as those marketed under the names and references: BYK LPX 21879, by BYK, GP-4, GP-6, GP-344, GP-851, GP-965, GP-967 and GP-988-1, marketed by Genesee les polymers, - silicone acrylates such as Tego® RC 902, Tego® RC 922, Tego® RC 1041, and Tego® RC 1043, marketed by Evonik, - polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) silicones with carboxylic groups such as X-22162 and X-22370 by Shin-Etsu, silicone epoxy such as GP-29, GP-32, GP-502, GP-504, GP-514, GP-607, GP-682, and GP-695, by Genesee Polymers, or Tego® RC 1401, Tego® RC 1403, Tego® RC 1412, by Evonik.
[0167] According to a particular embodiment, the dispersing agent(s) are of the amino-silicone type, different from the alkoxysilanes of formula (I) or formula (T) previously described in the application and are cationic.
[0168] Preferably, the pigment(s) is / are chosen from mineral pigments, mixed mineral-organic pigments, organic pigments or special effect pigments.
[0169] In one variant of the invention, the pigment(s) according to the invention are organic pigments, preferably organic pigments treated on the surface by an organic agent chosen from silicone compounds.
[0170] In another embodiment of the invention, the pigment or pigments according to the invention are mineral pigments.
[0171] In another embodiment of the invention, the pigments according to the invention are special effect pigments, preferably pearlescent pigments, more preferably colored pearlescent pigments. Direct dye
[0172] Composition A and / or composition B according to the invention may (can) comprise one or more direct dye(s).
[0173] By "direct dye," we mean natural and / or synthetic dyes, different from oxidation dyes. These are dyes that diffuse superficially onto the fiber. They can be ionic, for example cationic or anionic, or non-ionic.
[0174] Examples of suitable direct dyes that may be mentioned include azo direct dyes; (poly)methine dyes such as cyanines, hemicyanines and styryls; carbonyl dyes; azine dyes; nitro(hetero)aryl dyes; tri(hetero)arylmethane dyes; porphyrin dyes; phthalocyanine dyes and natural direct dyes, alone or in mixtures.
[0175] Direct dyes can be selected from anionic direct dyes. The anionic direct dyes of the invention are dyes commonly called "acid" direct dyes because of their affinity for alkali substances. Anionic direct dyes are understood to mean any direct dye having in its structure at least one CO2R or SO3R substituent, where R designates a hydrogen atom or a cation from a metal or an amine, or an ammonium ion. Anionic dyes can be selected from acidic nitro direct dyes, acidic azo dyes, acidic azinic dyes, acidic triarylmethanic dyes, acidic indoamine dyes, acidic anthraquinone dyes, indigoids, and acidic natural dyes.
[0176] A titre d’exemple de colorants acides on peut citer : Acid Red 1, Acid Red 4, Acid Red 13, Acid Red 14, Acid Red 18, Acid Red 27, Acid Red 28, Acid Red 32, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Red 37, Acid Red 40, Acid Red 41, Acid Red 42, Acid Red 44, Pigment red 57, Acid Red 68, Acid Red 73, Acid Red 135, Acid Red 138, Acid Red 184, Food Red 1, Food Red 13, Acid Orange 6, Acid Orange 7, Acid Orange 10, Acid Orange 19, Acid Orange 20, Acid Orange 24, Yellow 6, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Yellow 199, Food Yellow 3; Acid Violet 7, Acid Violet 14, Acid Blue 113, Acid Blue 117, Acid Black 1, Acid Brown 4, Acid Brown 20, Acid Black 26, Acid Black 52, Food Black 1, Food Black 2 ; Food yellow 3 ou sunset yellow; Acid Red 111, Acid Red 134, Acid yellow 38 ;
[0177] A titre d’exemple de colorants azo anioniques pyrazolones on peut citer : Acid Red 195, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 27, Acid Yellow 76Acid Yellow 17 ;
[0178] As an example of anthraquinone dyes, we can cite: Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 41, Acid Violet 42, Acid Violet 43, Mordant Red 3; EXT violet No. 2 Acid Black 48;
[0179] Examples of nitrate dyes include: Acid Brown 13; Acid Orange 3; examples of dyes of formula (XXII') include: Acid Yellow 1, Sodium salt of 2,4-dinitro-1-naphthol-7-sulfonic acid, 2-piperidino-5-nitrobenzenesulfonic acid, 2(4'-N,N(2'-hydroxyethyl)amino-2'-nitro)aniline ethanesulfonic acid, 4-[3-hydroxyethylamino-3-nitrobenzenesulfonic acid; EXT D&C yellow 7;
[0180] Examples of triarylmethane dyes include: Acid Blue 1; Acid Blue 3; Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9; Acid Violet 49; Acid green 3; Acid green 5; Acid Green 50.
[0181] Examples of xanthenic dyes include: Acid Yellow 73; Acid Red 51; Acid Red 52, Acid Red 87; Acid Red 92; Acid Red 95; Acid Violet 9.
[0182] As an example of indole dyes, we can cite: Acid Blue 74;
[0183] Examples of quinoline dyes include: Acid Yellow 2, Acid Yellow 3 and Acid Yellow 5.
[0184] Among the natural direct dyes that can be used according to the invention are lawsone, juglone, alizarin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, purpurogallin, protocatechaldehyde, indigo, isatin, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidine, and orceins. Extracts or decoctions containing these natural dyes, and in particular henna-based poultices or extracts, can also be used.
[0185] Preferably, the total content of colouring agent(s) in composition A and / or composition B ranges from 0.001% to 20%, more preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.005% to 10% by weight, better from 0.5% to 10% by weight, even better from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A and / or composition B.
[0186] Preferably, the total content of colouring agent(s) in composition A and composition B ranges from 0.001% to 20%, more preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.005% to 10% by weight, better from 0.5% to 10% by weight, even better from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A and composition B.
[0187] Preferably, the total content of colouring agent(s) in composition A ranges from 0.001% to 20%, more preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.005% to 10% by weight, better from 0.5% to 10% by weight, even better from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A.
[0188] Preferably, the total content of colouring agent(s) in composition B ranges from 0.001% to 20%, more preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.005% to 10% by weight, better from 0.5% to 10% by weight, even better from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B.
[0189] Preferably, the total pigment content in composition A and / or composition B is from 0.05% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight, better from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A and / or composition B.
[0190] Preferably, the total pigment content(s) in composition A ranges from 0.05% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight, better from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A.
[0191] Preferably, the total content of direct colorant(s) in composition A and / or composition B ranges from 0.001% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A and / or composition B.
[0192] Preferably, the total content of direct colorant(s) in composition A ranges from 0.001% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A.
[0193] Non-ionic non-associative cellulosic polymer: Composition A and / or composition B according to the invention may optionally further comprise at least one non-ionic cellulosic polymer, preferably non-associative.
[0194] The non-ionic non-associative cellulosic polymer is different from the film-forming polymers mentioned previously.
[0195] By "cellulosic polymer", according to the invention, any polysaccharide polymer having in its structure chains of glucose residues joined by beta-1,4 bonds.
[0196] By "non-associative cellulosic polymer", it is understood according to the invention that the cellulosic polymers do not have a C8-C30 fatty chain.
[0197] Non-associative non-ionic cellulosic polymers may be selected from alkyl(Ci-C4)celluloses, such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (e.g., Ethocel Standard 100 Premium from DOW CHEMICAL); hydroxyalkyl(Ci-C4)celluloses, such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses and hydroxypropylcelluloses; mixed hydroxyalkyl(Ci-C4)-alkyl(Ci-C4)celluloses, such as hydroxypropyl methylcelluloses (e.g., Methocel E4M from DOW CHEMICAL), hydroxyethyl methylcelluloses, hydroxyethyl ethylcelluloses (e.g., Bermocoll E 481 FQ from AKZO NOBEL), and hydroxybutyl methylcelluloses, and mixtures thereof.
[0198] Preferably, the non-ionic non-associative cellulosic polymer(s) are chosen from among the hydroxy(Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses.
[0199] More preferably, the non-ionic non-associative cellulosic polymer(s) are hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC) and / or hydroxypropylcellulose (HPC).
[0200] More preferably, composition A and / or composition B comprises (include) hydroxyethylcellulose and / or hydroxypropylcellulose (HPC).
[0201] In particular, hydroxyethylcellulose sold by Ashland Inc. under the trade name NATROSOL 250 HHR PC and hydroxypropylcellulose sold by Ashland Inc. under the trade name KLUCEL MF PHARM HY-DROXYPROPYLCELLULOSE may be cited.
[0202] Preferably, the total content of non-ionic cellulosic polymer(s) in composition A and / or composition B ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, better from 0.1% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A and / or composition B.
[0203] Preferably, the total content of non-associative non-ionic cellulosic polymer(s) in composition A and / or composition B ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, better from 0.1% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A and / or composition B.
[0204] When composition A and / or composition B according to the invention comprises (include) water, the pH of composition A and / or composition B is preferably alkaline; more preferably, the pH of composition A and / or composition B is between 9 and 11.
[0205] In order to adjust the pH, composition A and / or composition B may further include an alkali or an acid.
[0206] According to one embodiment of the invention, composition B according to the invention comprises an alkaline agent.
[0207] The pH of the compositions is measured at room temperature.
[0208] Examples of alkaline agents include ammonia, alkanolamines, and / or basic amino acids.
[0209] Preferably, the alkanolamine(s) are chosen from monoethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N-dimethylaminoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-l-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-l,3-propanediol, 3-amino-l,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol, trishydroxymethylaminomethane.
[0210] More preferably, the alkanolamine(s) are chosen from monoethanolamine and / or 2-amino-2-methyl-l-propanol.
[0211] For the purposes of this invention, "amino acid" means organic compounds having two functional groups: both a carboxyl group -COOH or car-boxylate and an amine group -NH2, the amine group optionally being methylated, i.e. in the form -NR2 or N+R3, where at least one R=CH3.
[0212] Preferably, the amino acid or acids are chosen from aminocarboxylic acids such as alpha-aminocarboxylic acid.
[0213] By "basic amino acid" is meant amino acids having an isoelectric point greater than 7.
[0214] Preferably, the basic amino acid(s) are chosen from arginine, lysine, ornithine and / or histidine, more preferably arginine and / or lysine.
[0215] According to a particular embodiment, composition A and / or composition B may include an inorganic alkali agent, preferably selected from ammonium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, sodium phosphate, potassium phosphate, sodium silicate, sodium metasilicate, potassium silicate, sodium carbonate and / or potassium carbonate.
[0216] Composition A and / or composition B may also include acidifying agents to adjust the pH. Preferably, acidifying agents are chosen from citric acid, lactic acid, acetic acid and / or mineral acids such as hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid, phosphoric acid and mixtures thereof.
[0217] Composition A and / or composition B according to the invention may also contain any adjuvant or additive usually used.
[0218] Among the additives that may be contained in the composition, we can mention reducing agents, oxidizing agents, thickening agents other than the polymers previously described, softeners, antifoaming agents, moisturizing agents, UV filters, peptizers, dispersants, solubilizing agents, perfumes, anionic, cationic, non-ionic or amphoteric surfactants, proteins, vitamins, preservatives, fillers, oils, waxes and mixtures thereof.
[0219] Composition A and / or composition B can be applied in particular to keratin fibers such as hair in the form of a spray, cream, gel, or mousse.
[0220] According to a particular embodiment, composition A according to the invention is an anhydrous liquid or an anhydrous gel.
[0221] According to a particular embodiment, composition B according to the invention is a dispersion.
[0222] According to one embodiment of the invention, composition A comprises at least one alkoxysilane as described above and at least one pigment as described above.
[0223] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, composition A comprises at least one alkoxysilane of formula (I) as described above, at least one alkoxysilane of formula (II) as described above, and at least one pigment as described above.
[0224] According to a more preferred embodiment, composition A according to the invention includes 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), methyltrimethoxysilane (MTMS) or methyltriethoxysilane (MTES), and at least one pigment.
[0225] According to a preferred embodiment, composition B according to the invention comprises at least one film-forming polymer selected from vinylpyrrolidone (PVP) homopolymers, vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, acrylamide copolymers, acrylic acid ester homopolymers or copolymers, ethylene homopolymers or copolymers and mixtures thereof, and at least one non-associative non-ionic cellulosic polymer as described above.
[0226] According to a more preferred embodiment, composition B according to the invention comprises at least one film-forming polymer selected from vinylpyrrolidone (PVP) homopolymers, acrylamide copolymers, acrylic acid ester homopolymers or copolymers, ethylene homopolymers or copolymers and mixtures thereof, and at least one non-associative non-ionic cellulosic polymer selected from hydroxy(Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses.
[0227] Process for coloring keratin fibers The process for coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, according to the invention comprises at least the following steps: a) an application step on keratin fibers of at least one composition A; b) an application step on keratin fibers of at least one composition B, different from composition A. (c) a step of applying heat and steam to the keratin fibers; it being understood that: - Composition A and / or composition B comprises at least one coloring agent selected from pigments, direct colorants, and mixtures thereof; and - step a) is implemented before steps b) and c).
[0228] Preferably, composition A and composition B are compositions for coloring keratin fibers, such as hair.
[0229] Compositions A and B according to the invention can be implemented on dry or wet keratin fibers, as well as on all types of fibers, light or dark, natural or colored, permed, bleached or straightened.
[0230] According to a particular embodiment of the process of the invention, the keratin fibers are washed before the application of compositions A and B according to the invention.
[0231] The application of compositions A and B according to the invention on keratin fibers can be carried out by any conventional means, in particular by means of a comb, a brush, a brush or the fingers.
[0232] Composition A and composition B may be applied simultaneously or sequentially. Preferably, composition A and composition B are applied sequentially.
[0233] According to the invention, step a) is carried out before steps b) and c).
[0234] Steps a) and b) of applying compositions A and B according to the invention to the keratin fibers, is generally implemented at room temperature (between 15 and 25°C).
[0235] After application of composition A or composition B to the keratin fibers, it is preferable to have a setting time of 10 seconds to 20 minutes, in particular 20 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably 30 seconds to 5 minutes of composition A or composition B on said fibers.
[0236] According to a particular embodiment, the process for coloring keratin fibers such as hair comprises: o) the preparation of composition A according to the invention by mixing a first composition A' and a second composition A” in which the first composition A' comprises: - at least one alkoxysilane selected from the compounds of formula (I) or formula (!') as described above, their oligomers and / or mixtures thereof, and - at least one alkoxysilane of formula (II) as described above, its oligomers and / or mixtures thereof and The second composition A' ' comprises: - at least one non-associative non-ionic cellulosic polymer as described above, and - at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and their mixtures, a) the application of composition A according to the invention to said keratin fibers, o') optionally a leave-on time of 10 seconds to 20 minutes, in particular from 20 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably from 30 seconds to 5 minutes, of composition A on said fibers, b) the application of composition B according to the invention comprising at least one film-forming polymer as described above, o”) optionally an exposure time of 10 seconds to 20 minutes, in particular from 20 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably from 30 seconds to 5 minutes of composition B according to the invention on said fibers, and c) a step of applying heat and water vapor to the keratin fibers.
[0237] According to the invention, preferably there is no rinsing step of the keratin fibers after step a) and before step b) or c).
[0238] The term "rinsing step" refers to the application of water to the keratin fibers.
[0239] After step b) of application of composition B according to the invention, the kéra fibers Tinic fibers may possibly be subjected to a step d) of drying the keratinic fibers, without the addition of water vapor, using for example a hair dryer.
[0240] The drying step d) can be carried out for a period of between 20 seconds and 2 minutes.
[0241] Step d) of drying can be carried out using absorbent paper, a hair dryer, a hair dryer helmet or in the open air.
[0242] Preferably, step d) of drying is carried out using a hair dryer at a temperature greater than or equal to 30 °C, more particularly at a temperature greater than 30 °C and less than 100 °C.
[0243] The possible step d) of drying does not introduce water vapor onto the keratin fibers, and constitutes a separate and different step from step c) of applying heat and water vapor to the keratin fibers.
[0244] According to a preferred embodiment, step d) of air-drying or blow-drying the hair is carried out before step c). According to a particular embodiment, step c) is carried out on previously dried hair.
[0245] After applying composition B according to the invention to the keratin fibers, one can wait at least 10 seconds, preferably at least 30 seconds before step d) of drying the keratin fibers.
[0246] The process according to the invention includes a step c) of applying heat and steam to keratin fibers, such as hair.
[0247] Preferably, step c) is carried out before and / or after step b). In other words, step c) is carried out after step a) and before step b), or step c) is carried out after step b), step b) being carried out after step a) according to the invention.
[0248] According to a particular embodiment, step c) is carried out after step a) and after step b).
[0249] Step c) of applying heat and steam to the keratin fibers can be carried out using a heating tool delivering steam.
[0250] According to the invention, during step c) of the process according to the invention, the application of heat and the application of steam are carried out simultaneously on the keratin fibers.
[0251] Preferably, the heating tool delivering water vapor is a steam iron such as a Steampod® iron.
[0252] By "iron", in the context of the present invention, we mean a device for heating keratin fibers, bringing said fibers into direct contact with the heating device.
[0253] For the purposes of this invention, "steam irons" means irons which include a device which emits steam.
[0254] By way of example of steam irons usable in the process according to the invention, one can cite all types of steam iron, and in particular, without limitation, those described in US patent 11,470,938.
[0255] Step c) of applying heat and steam to the keratin fibers can be carried out by successive touches of a few seconds, or by progressive movement or sliding along the keratin fibers, in particular along human keratin fibers such as hair.
[0256] Preferably, step c) of applying heat and steam to the keratin fibers is carried out in continuous movement from the root to the tip of the keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers, such as hair, in one or more passes, in particular in one to twenty passes.
[0257] Advantageously, the speed of each pass of the heating tool delivering water vapor can range from 0.5 cm to 15 cm of keratin fibers / second; preferably from 0.5 cm to 5 cm of keratin fibers / second; more preferably from 1 cm to 3 cm of keratin fibers / second.
[0258] Advantageously, the steam output delivered by the heating tool is between 0.5g and 10g of water vapor / minute; preferably between 0.8g and 5g of water vapor / minute.
[0259] Preferably, during step c) of applying heat and water vapor to the keratin fibers, the temperature applied to the keratin fibers is between 150°C and 230°C; more preferably between 180°C and 220°C; and even more preferably between 200°C and 210°C.
[0260] During step c) of applying heat and steam to the keratin fibers, a mechanical action on the strands can be exerted such as combing, brushing, passing with fingers.
[0261] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being intended to be limiting.
[0262] Examples: In the examples below, the temperature is given in degrees Celsius, and corresponds to the ambient temperature (20-25°C), unless otherwise stated, and the pressure is atmospheric pressure, unless otherwise stated.
[0263] The following compositions are prepared (in g / lOOg of raw material as is) [Table 1] Composition A' 3-Aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES)(1) 24 Triethoxymethylsilane (MTES - CAS # 2031-67-9)® 72 Ethanol Qsp 100
[0264] [Tables2] Composition A” Pigment (3) 10 Hydroxypropylcellulose (4) 4 Ethanol Qsp 100
[0265] [Tables3] Composition B Ethylene / sodium acrylate copolymer (5) 15 Hydroxyethylcellulose (6) 2 Water q.s. 100
[0266] (1) Sold under the trade name KBE-903 by the company Shin Etsu;
[0267] (2) Sold under the trade name TRIETHOXYMETHYLSILANE by the company Sigma-Aldrich;
[0268] (3) SYNTHETIC FLUORPHLOGOPITE (and) TITANIUM DIOXIDE (and) TIN OXIDE sold under the trade name SYNCRYSTAL SILK SILVER by the company Eckart;
[0269] (4) Sold under the trade name KLUCEL™ PHARM HYDROXY- PROPYLCELLULOSE by the company Ashland;
[0270] (5) Sold under the trade name ECOSMOOTH SATIN by the company Dow Corning (at 25% active ingredient in water);
[0271] (6) Sold under the trade name NATROSOL™ 250 HHR CS by the Ashland company. Protocols:
[0272] PI Protocol: Compositions A' and A” are mixed in a weight ratio of 1:1, in order to obtain composition A.
[0273] Composition A according to the invention is applied with a finger to 6 strands Ml to M6 of 90% white natural dry hair, at a rate of 1 g of composition per gram of hair.
[0274] The hair strands are left at room temperature for 5 minutes. The hair strands are not rinsed.
[0275] Composition B is then applied with a finger at a rate of 1 g of composition per gram of hair, on the 6 strands of hair previously treated with composition A.
[0276] The hair strands are left at room temperature for 5 minutes.
[0277] The hair strands are then dried with a hairdryer for 2 minutes.
[0278] Of the 6 hair strands treated with compositions A and B according to the invention, 3 treated hair strands undergo an application of heat and steam (invention), and 3 other treated hair strands M4 to M6 undergo an application of heat using the same tool but without the use of steam (comparatives).
[0279] The application of heat and steam to the hair strands is carried out using a steam iron (3 passes per strand, from root to tip), respectively: - Ml: the Steampod® 2 at 210°C and delivering 3.5g of water vapor / min; - M2: the Steampod® 3 at 210°C and delivering 0.8g of water vapor / min; - M3: the Démeliss® at 210°C and delivering 5g of water vapor / min; - M4: the Steampod® 2 at 210°C, without adding steam to the hair; - M5: the Steampod® 3 at 210°C, without applying steam to the hair; and - M6: Démeliss® at 210°C, without adding steam to the hair.
[0280] For M4 to M6 hair extensions, the Steampod® 2, Steampod® 3 and Démeliss® do not deliver steam to the hair. For M4 to M6 extensions, they are used as a straightening iron.
[0281] Protocol P2: Compositions A' and A” are mixed in a weight ratio of 1:1, in order to obtain composition A.
[0282] Composition A according to the invention is applied with a finger to 2 strands M'1 and M'2 of 90% white natural dry hair at a rate of 1 g of composition per gram of hair.
[0283] The hair strands are left at room temperature for 5 minutes. The hair strands are not rinsed.
[0284] Next, on the 2 strands of hair treated with composition A according to the invention, the treated strand of hair M' 1 undergoes an application of heat and steam (invention), and the treated strand of hair M'2 undergoes an application of heat but without the use of steam (comparatives).
[0285] The application of heat and steam to the hair strand M' 1 is carried out using a Steampod® 2 type steam iron at 210°C and delivering 3.5g of steam per min (3 passes per strand, from root to tip).
[0286] For section M'2, the Steampod® 2 does not deliver steam to the hair. For section M'2, it is used as a straightener at 210°C.
[0287] Composition B is then applied with a finger at a rate of 1 g of composition per gram of hair, to the 2 previously treated hair strands M'1 and M'2 by composition A, as well as by heat and water vapor.
[0288] The hair strands are left at room temperature for 5 minutes.
[0289] The hair strands are then dried with a hairdryer for 2 minutes.
[0290] Hair strands treated M1 to M6 according to protocol PI or M'1 and M'2 according to The P2 protocol samples are left at room temperature for 24 hours.
[0291] The hair strands thus coloured are subjected to shampooing in order to evaluate the tenacity (residuality, resistance) of the colour obtained by shampooing, according to the shampooing protocol described below. Shampooing protocol:
[0292] The following shampoo is performed on all the strands obtained after following protocol PI or protocol P2 above.
[0293] The hair strands are washed using a standard shampoo (Garnier Ultra Doux), at a rate of 0.4 g of shampoo per gram of hair.
[0294] The hair strands are then rinsed, combed, and blow-dried. Results:
[0295] The persistence of the color of the highlights after shampooing was evaluated in the CIE L*a*b* system, using a Minolta Spectrophotometer CM3600A colorimeter (illuminant D65, angle 10°, specular component included).
[0296] In this L*a*b* system, L* represents the intensity of the color, a* indicates the green / red color axis and b* the blue / yellow color axis.
[0297] The permanence of the color is assessed by the color difference AE between the colored strands before shampooing, and then after one shampooing according to the protocol described above. The lower the AE value, the more permanent / resistant the color is to shampooing.
[0298] The value of AE is calculated according to the following equation: ae - ■' V
[0299] In this equation, for the persistence of the color to shampoos, L*, a*, b* represent the values measured after coloring the hair and after having undergone a shampoo, and Lo*, a0*, b0* represent the values measured after coloring the hair but before shampooing.
[0300] The results obtained with wicks M1 to M6 of protocol 1 are shown in the table below:
[0301] [Tables4] Steam Hair Strips Number of Shampoos L* a* b* AE M4 (Comparative) Without 0 42.70 19.49 13.40 - Without 1 48.41 15.71 15.38 7.13 Ml (Invention) With 0 42.67 19.08 14.53 - With 1 44.10 18.95 17.09 2.94 M5 (Comparative) Without 0 39.44 24.22 17.68 - Without 1 41.17 17.60 14.84 7.41 M2 (Invention) With 0 38.37 22.54 15.32 - With 1 37.84 21.41 15.97 1.41 M6 (Comparative) Without 0 43.39 19.06 15.43 - Without 1 47.50 15.60 15.83 5.39 M3 (Invention) With 0 41.57 21.17 15.37 - With 1 42.60 21.54 18.11 2.95
[0302] The results obtained with wicks M'1 and M'2 of protocol 2 are shown in the table below:
[0303] [Tables5] Steam Hair Extensions Number of Shampoos L* a* b* AE M'2 (Computer) Without 0 37.64 21.57 15.53 - Without 1 45.85 13.82 14.91 11.31 M'1 (Invention) With 0 36.59 20.21 14.53 - With 1 39.53 18.01 14.86 3.69
[0304] Hair strands colored according to the invention by the PI protocol or the P2 protocol with an application of heat and water vapor, exhibit low AE values compared to hair strands colored by the PI protocol or the P2 protocol with an application of heat but without the application of water vapor to the keratin fibers.
[0305] The coloured coatings of keratin fibers obtained with the colouring process according to the invention comprising a step of applying heat and water vapor to the keratin fibers (steam iron), exhibits better resistance to shampoos than the coloured coatings of keratin fibers obtained with the comparative colouring process comprising a step of applying heat without supplying water vapor to the keratin fibers (straightening iron).
Claims
Demands
1. A method for staining keratin fibers comprising at least the following steps: a) an application step on keratin fibers of at least one composition A comprising at least one alkoxysilane selected from the following compounds of formula (I), (!') or (II), their oligomers and / or mixtures thereof: in which: - Ra represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, more preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as a methyl, said alkyl group possibly being substituted by an aryl group; an alkoxy group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as an ethoxy; or an aryl group having from 6 to 12 carbon atoms; - Rb and Rc; identical or different represent a hydrogen atom; an alkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, in particular an ethyl group, it being understood that if Ra does not represent an alkoxy group, then Rb and Rc cannot simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom; - Rd and Re, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom; an alkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and particularly from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; a cycloalkyl group having from 3 to 20 carbon atoms; an aryl group having 6 to 12 carbon atoms; an aminoalkyl group having 1 to 20 carbon atoms; - A independently represents an alkylene group having from 1 to 10 linear or branched carbon atoms, which may be interrupted by at least one heteroatom chosen from O, S, NH or a carbonyl group (CO), preferably NH - Q represents a carbonyl group (CO); - r denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 1; in which: - Ra represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, more preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as a methyl, said alkyl group possibly being substituted by an aryl group; an alkoxy group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as an ethoxy; or an aryl group having from 6 to 12 carbon atoms; - Rb represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, in particular an ethyl group; - Rc represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, more preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as a methyl, said alkyl group possibly being substituted by an aryl group; an alkoxy group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as an ethoxy; or an aryl group having from 6 to 12 carbon atoms; It is understood that if Ra and Rc do not represent an alkoxy group, then Rb cannot represent a hydrogen atom. - k denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 5, preferably ranging from 0 to 3 - Rf represents a hydrogen atom; an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; or a group of the following formula (lia): z (Ha) in which Rn represents a hydroxyl (OH) group; an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl group, b) an application step on the keratin fibers of at least one composition B, different from composition A, comprising at least one film-forming polymer; c) a step of applying heat and steam to the keratin fibers; it being understood that: - composition A and / or composition B comprises at least one coloring agent selected from pigments, direct dyes, and mixtures thereof; and - step a) is carried out before steps b) and c).
2. A process according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the alkoxysilane(s) in composition A are selected from said compounds of formula (I), said compounds of formula (II), their oligomers, and mixtures thereof.
3. A method according to claim 1, characterized in that composition A comprises at least a first alkoxysilane selected from said compounds of formula (I) or (I') and at least a second alkoxysilane selected from said compounds of formula (II); more preferably composition A comprises at least a first alkoxysilane selected from said compounds of formula (I) and at least a second alkoxysilane selected from said compounds of formula (II).
4. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the compound(s) of formula (I) in composition A are selected from compounds of formula (I) for which: - Ra represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, in particular from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl, or an alkoxy group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 2 carbon atoms, preferably an ethoxy; - Rb and Rc, identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as an ethyl; - Rd and Re, identical, represent a hydrogen atom or Rd designates a hydrogen atom and Re designates a C5-C6 cycloalkyl radical such as cyclohexyl; - A independently represents an alkylene group having from 1 to 10 linear or branched carbon atoms, which may be interrupted by at least one heteroatom chosen from O, S, NH or a carbonyl group (CO), preferably NH; - r denotes an integer equal to 0.
5. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the compound(s) of formula (I) in composition A are selected from the compounds of formula (I) for which: - Ra represents an ethoxy group, - Rb and Rc are identical and represent an ethyl, - Rd and Re represent a hydrogen atom, - A represents a propylene, and - r denotes an integer equal to 0.
6. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the compound(s) of formula (II) in composition A are selected from those for which: - Ra represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as a methyl or an ethyl; - Rb represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as a methyl or an ethyl; - Rc represents an alkoxy group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as a methoxy or an ethoxy; - k denotes an integer equal to 0; - Rf represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as a methyl or an ethyl;preferably methyltrimethoxysilane (MTMS) or methyltriethoxysilane (MTES).
7. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, ca- characterized in that the total alkoxysilane(s) content in composition A ranges from 1% to 90% by weight, preferably from 5% to 80% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 70% by weight, more preferably still from 20% to 60% by weight, better from 30% to 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A.
8. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the film-forming polymer(s) in composition B are selected from vinylpyrrolidone (PVP) homopolymers, acrylamide copolymers, acrylic acid ester homopolymers or copolymers, ethylene homopolymers or copolymers and mixtures thereof; preferably ethylene homopolymers or copolymers.
9. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of film-forming polymer(s) in composition B ranges from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 25% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 20% by weight, more preferably still from 2% to 20% by weight, better from 3% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B.
10. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio of the total content of al-coxylsilane(s) in composition A, to the total content of film-forming polymer(s) in composition B is between 1 and 20; preferably between 2 and 16; more preferably between 5 and 15.
11. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that composition A and / or composition B further comprises at least one non-associative non-ionic cellulosic polymer selected from hydroxy(Ci-C4) alkylcelluloses, preferably hydroxyethylcellulose and / or hydroxypropylcellulose.
12. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that composition A is anhydrous.
13. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that composition A further comprises at least one organic solvent; preferably selected from ethanol, isopropanol, glycerol, 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, benzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof; more preferably ethanol; and more preferably still at least one organic solvent in a total content of from 1% to 70% weight, better from 5% to 55%, and even better from 10% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight in composition A.
14. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising a step d) of drying the keratin fibers, carried out after said step b) of applying to the keratin fibers at least one composition B.
15. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that during step c) of applying heat and steam to the keratin fibers, the temperature applied to the keratin fibers is between 150°C and 230°C; preferably between 180°C and 220°C; and more preferably between 200°C and 210°C.
16. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that step c) of applying heat and steam to the keratin fibers is carried out by means of a heating tool delivering steam, preferably a steam iron.