NEW GABA-RICH EXTRACT AND ITS USE IN COSMETICS AND / OR DERMATOLOGY

Abstract

The present invention relates to a natural extract, preferably extracted from yeast, rich in gamma-aminobutyric acid (GABA), a cosmetic and / or dermatological product comprising such an extract, and their use for their beneficial effects on the skin.

Description

Title of the invention: NEW EXTRACT Rich in GABA and its use in cosmetics and / or dermatology technical field

[0001] The present invention falls within the field of cosmetics and dermatology, seeking natural solutions to improve skin properties. The solution proposed in this application is the provision of a natural extract rich in GABA, whose beneficial properties for the skin are well-known. Thus, the incorporation of such an extract into a cosmetic composition makes it possible to obtain a product with a range of positive effects for the skin. Prior state of the art

[0002] The skin is the largest organ in the body, representing 16% of total body weight. It serves as the first line of defense and maintains essential chemicals and nutrients. It has been established that the skin undergoes age-related changes due to a combination of intrinsic factors, which occur naturally over time, and extrinsic factors, which result from external stressors such as UV radiation and pollution. These factors can lead to dryness or inflammation of the epidermis, decreased proliferation and function of fibroblasts in the dermis, loss of elasticity, and the formation of wrinkles. Keratinocytes, which constitute the majority of epidermal cells, are distinguished by their synthesis of cytokeratin and the presence of desmosomes. They are also tightly bound to one another to form a robust physical and chemical barrier.The dermis also contains abundant fibroblasts, which play a key role in many physiological skin reactions by producing connective tissue in the dermis and linking other cells. Age-related aging is associated with epidermal atrophy and a reduction in the number of fibroblasts and in the quantity and quality of collagen in the dermis, which are the main histological changes in the skin. Intrinsically aged skin is characterized by decreased epidermal turnover, a phenomenon associated with a narrowing of the stratum spinosum.

[0003] Gamma-aminobutyric acid (GABA), a non-proteinogenic amino acid, is naturally produced by the body. GABA is present in large quantities in vertebrates, plants, and microbes, and is the main inhibitory neurotransmitter in the adult brain. GABA is present in synaptic vesicles. in the nervous system, then released into the synaptic cleft, where it diffuses to target receptors on the postsynaptic surface. GABA has a relatively low molecular weight, which allows it to cross the skin and bind to GABA receptors on skin cells. Thus, it has been found to play a role in several skin functions: (1) the production of hyaluronic acid; (2) the ability of normal human keratinocytes to maintain cell volume homeostasis under UV radiation; and (3) the ability of dermal fibroblasts to survive when exposed to oxidative stress.

[0004] Thus, this work suggests that GABA could have beneficial effects on the skin due to its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. GABA could improve skin resilience to stresses related to age or environmental exposure (light, pollution, etc.) (Zhao et al., Biomol Ther (Seoul). 2023 Nov 1;31(6):640-647. doi: 10.4062 / biomolther. 2023.085. Epub 2023 Aug 1. PMID: 37524442). GABA may also regulate melanin production and therefore skin pigmentation (Ceol, Craig J. (2023) Cancer Discov, vol. 13, no. 10, pp. 2128-2130. DOI: 10.1158 / 2159-8290.CD-23-0843). Preliminary studies have also examined GABA's role in regulating sebum production, which could be relevant for people with acne-prone skin. Finally, GABA also has muscle-toning properties, which may suggest anti-wrinkle benefits.

[0005] Document CN114292763 describes a new yeast strain producing high amounts of GABA and the use of an extract of this strain to combat wrinkles. Document KR2018-0020534 describes the use of a GABA-producing yeast, in extract form, for hair regrowth.

[0006] However, there is an obvious need to develop new natural cosmetic ingredients to improve the condition of the skin.

[0007] The solution proposed by the present invention is to provide a natural extract containing gamma-aminobutyric acid (GABA) in a complex matrix (inactivated bacteria, peptides, amino acids, RNA, etc.). Thus, the integration of such an extract into a product to be applied to the skin makes it possible to provide a sufficient quantity of GABA to obtain a beneficial effect on human skin, in a natural context, also rich in other potentially useful compounds (in terms of hydration, antioxidant potential, etc.). Detailed description of the invention

[0008] Thus and according to a first aspect, the present invention relates to a natural extract rich in gamma-aminobutyric acid (GABA).

[0009] For the purposes of this invention, a "GABA-rich extract" means that the extract comprises at least 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, or 10%, or even at least 11, 12, 13, 14, or even at least 15% by weight of GABA, the percentage by weight being expressed relative to the dry weight of the extract. Advantageously, the extract comprises at least 5% by weight of GABA. A content between 5 and 15% is particularly suitable for the purposes of this invention.

[0010] In the context of the invention, a natural extract is defined as being obtained from an element of nature, in particular from plant material or from a microorganism such as a yeast or a bacterium. According to a particular embodiment, the extract according to the invention is obtained from a yeast, hereinafter referred to as "yeast extract" ("YE" for Yeast Extract).

[0011] Generally speaking, yeast extracts are products known to those skilled in the art. According to the invention, "yeast extract" (or "yeast hydrolysate" or "yeast peptone") refers to the soluble fraction obtained after thermal, mechanical (using known methods such as high-pressure homogenization, mechanical milling, mechanical lysis using glass beads, ultrasonic disintegration, repeated freeze-thaw cycles, or osmotic shock), or enzymatic lysis (using an enzyme exogenous or endogenous to the yeast)... The objective of such lysis is to release the internal macromolecules of said yeast in their native state, in particular the pool of free amino acids, including free glutamic acid. The co-products obtained correspond to the insoluble fraction called "yeast hulls" and can be used in other processes.The processes for obtaining yeast hulls and yeast extracts are known in the art (see, for example, the reference work “Yeast Technology”, 2nd edition, 1991, G. Reed and TW Nogodawithana, published by Van Nostrand Reinhold, New York, ISBN 0-442-31892-8). The insoluble fraction and / or the soluble fraction can then be dried.

[0012] Thus, a yeast extract may be in dry form, preferably as a fine water-soluble powder, in liquid form or even as a concentrated liquid, or in paste form. A yeast extract comprises mainly protein matter, preferably at least 55% protein matter.

[0013] The difficulty overcome by the present invention is to obtain a natural extract rich in GABA, without the addition of exogenous GABA. Indeed, some plants, such as broccoli or sweet potatoes, contain GABA but in very small quantities, unusable for the desired properties.

[0014] Thus, and advantageously, the natural extract used in the context of the present invention is an extract that is naturally rich in glutamic acid (or glutamate). Note that in the context of the invention, "glutamic acid" means » (or « glutamate») the amino acid in free form, not integrated into a peptide or protein.

[0015] In particular, an extract is said to be "rich in glutamic acid" if it contains at least 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, or 10%, or even 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 20, or 25% by weight of free glutamic acid, the percentage by weight being expressed relative to the dry weight of the extract. Advantageously, the extract comprises at least 10% by weight of free glutamic acid. A content between 5 and 25%, for example between 10 and 20%, is particularly suitable within the scope of the present invention. Natural extracts meeting this definition are, for example, yeast extracts, bacterial extracts, or plant extracts, advantageously yeast extracts.

[0016] According to a particular embodiment, such an extract is obtained from an organism, in particular a plant or microorganism such as yeast or bacteria, capable of synthesizing or even secreting glutamic acid, advantageously in large quantities. As is known to those skilled in the art, the organism may be naturally capable of synthesizing glutamic acid in large quantities, or genetically modified for this purpose.

[0017] A yeast extract according to the invention can be obtained from any yeast, advantageously meeting the above definition. Preferably, the yeast strain used for preparing the extract according to the invention belongs to the genus Saccharomyces, Kluyveromyces, or Candida (also known as Pichia or Lindnerd). Preferably, the yeast strain used for preparing the extract belongs to the genus Saccharomyces and, more particularly, to the species Saccharomyces cerevisiae.

[0018] An example of bacteria meeting the above definition is, for example, the species Corynebacterium glutamicum.

[0019] As reported in the literature, many plants or sources of plant material meeting the above definition are known.

[0020] Obtaining GABA from glutamic acid involves the implementation of a glutamate decarboxylase (GAD) activity capable of ensuring the following conversion: L-Ghitamate-r LH -> GABA -J- CO2

[0021] Following this step, carried out under conditions that promote the conversion of glutamic acid to GABA while ensuring limited bacterial growth, the resulting extract is low in glutamic acid, or even glutamic acid-free. For the purposes of this invention, a "low-glutamic acid extract" is defined as an extract that advantageously comprises less than 10%, or even less than 9, 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, 1, 0.9, 0.8, 0.7, 0.6, 0.5, 0.4, 0.3, or even 0.2 or 0.1% by weight. of free glutamic acid, the percentage by weight being expressed relative to the dry weight of the extract. "Glutamic acid-free or glutamic acid-free extract" refers to an extract that does not contain free glutamic acid, corresponding to the case where all the free glutamic acid present in the extract has been converted to GABA.

[0022] As is known to those skilled in the art, the natural extract, advantageously yeast extract, can be incubated in the presence of such an enzyme under conditions, particularly of temperature and pH, that ensure this conversion. These conditions vary depending on the origin of the GAD enzyme. By way of example, and in relation to the enzyme produced by Levilactobacillus brevis, these conditions are: - an acidic pH, for example of 5; and - a temperature between 30 and 35°C, for example equal to 33°C.

[0023] Alternatively, a natural extract, advantageously a GABA-rich yeast extract according to the invention, is obtained via a bacterium exhibiting suitable glutamate decarboxylase activity.

[0024] Thus, the bacterium implemented within the framework of the invention exhibits glutamate decarboxylase (GAD) activity, in other words is capable of producing a glutamate decarboxylase (GAD) enzyme. The proteins involved in this metabolic pathway, in particular the GadA and / or GadB genes encoding the enzyme and the GadC gene encoding the substrate transporter, are widely documented in the prior art, see for example the review by Yogeswara et al. (Microorganisms 2020,8(12),1923; https: / / doi.org / 10.3390 / microorganisms8121923) in connection with lactic acid bacteria.

[0025] According to a particular embodiment, a bacterium of interest carries a GadA and / or GadB gene encoding the GAD enzyme.

[0026] According to another embodiment, the bacterium further carries a GadC gene encoding a glutamate and GABA transporter.

[0027] These may be endogenous or exogenous genes, single or multicopy, chromosomally integrated or carried by a plasmid, and placed under the control of regulatory elements allowing their expression, such as a promoter. In a particular embodiment, these are endogenous genes.

[0028] It has been shown that lactic acid bacteria, particularly those of the Lactobacillaceae family, are particularly well-suited for implementation within the scope of the present invention. The bacteria listed below can be used alone or in combination.

[0029] Bacteria carrying at least one GadA or GadB gene are for example chosen from the group including: Lactobacillus plantarum.

[0030] Bacteria carrying at least one GadA gene and at least one GadB gene are, for example, chosen from the group comprising the genera following : Levilactobacillus, Lentilactobacilus, Lactococcus, Lacticaseibacillus, Furfurilactobacillus, Leuconostoc, Lactiplantibacillus, Bifidobacterium, Pediococcus, Enterococcus and Limosilactobacillus.

[0031] For example, it may be: Levilactobacillus brevis, Lentilactobacillus buchneri, Lactococcus lactis, Lacticaseibacillus paracasei, Furfurilactobacillus rossiae, Enterococcus faecium, Leuconostoc suionicum, Lactobacillus amylovorus, Lactiplantibacillus plantarum, Bifidobacterium dentium, Bifidobacterium adolescentis, Bifidobacterium angulatum, Pediococcus pentosaceus, Enterococcus casseliflavus, Limosilactobacillus reuteri, Enterococcus gallinarum, Limosilactobacillus oris, Pediococcus acidilactici, Limosilactobacillus fermentum and Enterococcus hermanniensis.

[0032] As is known to those skilled in the art, the bacterium is cultured under conditions favorable to the growth of bacteria of the Lactobacillaceae family, for example in an MRS (Man Rogosa, Sharpe) type culture medium. The culture conditions, particularly those relating to pH, temperature, and aerobic or anaerobic conditions (partial or total), depend on the strain chosen. As is known and as described in the examples, a strain of Levilactobacillus brevis is advantageously cultured under partially anaerobic conditions, at a temperature between 30 and 35°C and at a slightly acidic pH, for example, 6.2.

[0033] Advantageously, the bacterium is further cultured under conditions promoting the expression of genes of the pathway, in particular GadA, GadBet / or GadC.

[0034] At the end of growth and for the conversion stage, the culture thus obtained can be used as such, or in dried or even freeze-dried form, provided that these treatments do not affect the enzymatic activity.

[0035] By using a bacterium equipped with the GadC-encoded transporter, whole cells can be implemented to ensure the conversion of glutamic acid from the natural extract into GABA.

[0036] Alternatively, and in particular when the bacteria do not possess such a transporter, the bacteria are subjected to lysis, then possibly centrifuged, and it is the lysate containing the enzyme of interest, possibly purified, that is used.

[0037] The extract, advantageously of yeast, is then incubated with the bacterial culture, possibly in the form of a bacterial lysate.

[0038] According to one embodiment, the free glutamic acid titration of the extract, particularly of yeast, is adjusted. In practice, the extract is advantageously used in this incubation step at a concentration of at least 100, 150, 200, 250 or even 300 g / L, for example between 150 g / L and 250 g / L.

[0039] According to one embodiment, bioconversion is ensured by bringing the extract, advantageously of yeast, as detailed above, into contact with the bacterium, namely the bacterial must or bacterial lysate, as described above.

[0040] Incubation is advantageously carried out under conditions adapted to the bacterium used or to the enzyme in the case of a bacterial lysate.

[0041] Thus, in a manner known to those skilled in the art, the incubation conditions are adjusted according to the bacterial strain and the enzyme present, to ensure optimal bioconversion activity.

[0042] The conversion step is carried out until the desired quantity of free glutamic acid is consumed. In the context of this application for the use of the final extract for health purposes, and in the absence of GABA toxicity, the conversion to GABA must be optimal, advantageously exceeding 90%. As already stated, the final extract advantageously comprises less than 10, 9, 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, or 1%, or even 0.9, 0.8, 0.7, 0.6, 0.5, 0.4, 0.3, 0.2, or even 0.1% by weight of free glutamic acid, the percentage by weight being expressed relative to the dry weight of the extract. Even more advantageously, all of the glutamic acid in the extract is consumed.

[0043] According to a particular embodiment, an extract according to the invention further has the following characteristics, expressed as a percentage by weight relative to the dry weight of the extract: - a nitrogen content of 0 to 20%, for example 5 to 15%; and / or - a free amino acid content of 0 to 30%, for example 10 to 20%; and / or - a total amino acid content of 20 to 50%, for example 30 to 40%.

[0044] After the conversion has stopped, several processing schemes for the extract thus obtained can be considered:

[0045] According to a first embodiment and at least in the case of incubation with live bacteria, it is subjected to thermal inactivation, for example at a temperature of 90°C. In this case, the product obtained contains inactivated bacteria.

[0046] According to another embodiment, after this thermal inactivation step, the bacteria are removed from the extract by any technique known to those skilled in the art, for example by tangential membrane filtration (microfiltration or ultrafiltration), by centrifugation, or by a combination of these different techniques.

[0047] These steps may prove unnecessary in the case of the implementation of a bacterial lysate.

[0048] Thus and at this stage, the extract may contain inactivated bacteria or be free (or essentially devoid) of bacteria.

[0049] According to a particular embodiment, the inactivated bacteria are preserved in the extract according to the invention, thus constituting a post-biotic of interest in the context of an application particularly in cosmetics.

[0050] According to another feature, an extract according to the invention is water-soluble.

[0051] According to a particular embodiment, the extract thus obtained is dried, advantageously by spray drying, for example using a spray drying tower. In the context of this application, it has been shown that the GABA present in the extract is resistant to these heat treatments and remains stable.

[0052] In one particular embodiment, the extract according to the invention is in the form of a dry extract. Alternatively, it may be in liquid or powder form. In another particular embodiment, the extract according to the invention may be diluted in a physiologically acceptable carrier or excipient. A physiologically acceptable carrier or excipient is an aromatically neutral carrier or excipient suitable for administration in humans or animals. Examples of physiologically acceptable carriers or excipients include maltodextrins, triacetin, propylene glycol, vegetable glycerin, glycerol, soluble fibers, yeast derivatives such as yeast extracts, barks, and autolysates, or fats such as palm oil.

[0053] An extract according to the invention has properties beneficial to the beauty and health of the skin, of interest for any product intended for topical use. One aspect of the invention therefore relates to the use of such an extract in this context.

[0054] The extract according to the invention can be used alone as an active ingredient or formulated in a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition. Another object of the invention therefore relates to the use of the extract according to the invention contained in a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition, which also includes at least one cosmetically and / or dermatologically acceptable excipient. In other words, and according to a particular aspect, the present invention relates to a topical cosmetic and / or dermatological composition comprising an extract as defined above.

[0055] In the context of this application, the term "excipient" refers to a substance or compound that does not possess any biological and / or therapeutic properties. The excipient ensures the creation of a particular texture, fragrance, and / or color for a formulation, as well as its preservation, stability, safety, and longevity, in accordance with regulations. The excipient is distinct from the active compound(s) present in the composition according to the invention.

[0056] The term "acceptable excipient" means any vehicle or solvent suitable for use in contact with the skin, including the scalp and / or human mucous membranes, non-toxic, non-irritating, does not induce an allergic response and is chemically stable.

[0057] In a manner known to a person skilled in the art, the excipient(s) may be selected from: preservatives, emollients, emulsifiers, surfactants, moisturizers, thickeners, conditioners, mattifying agents, stabilizers, antioxidants, texturizing agents, gloss enhancers, film-forming agents, solubilizers, pigments, colorants and perfumes.

[0058] These excipients are preferably chosen from the group consisting of amino acids and their derivatives, polyglycerols, esters, polymers and cellulose derivatives, lanolin derivatives, phospholipids, lactoferrins, lactoperoxidases, sucrose-based stabilizers, vitamin E and its derivatives, natural and synthetic waxes, vegetable oils, triglycerides, unsaponifiables, phytosterols, vegetable esters, silicones and their derivatives, protein hydrolysates, jojoba oil and its derivatives, lipo / water-soluble esters, betaines, aminoxides, plant extracts, sucrose esters, titanium dioxides, glycines, and parabens.

[0059] Particularly in the cosmetic field, the group of excipients may consist of butylene glycol, steareth-2, steareth-21, glycol-15 stearyl ether, cetearyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, butylene glycol, natural tocopherols, glycerin, dihydroxyketyl sodium phosphate, isopropyl hydroxyketyl ether, glycol stearate, trisononanoin, octyl cocoate, polyacrylamide, isoparaffin, aureth-7, a carbomer, propylene glycol, glycerol, bisabolol, a dimethicone, sodium hydroxide, PEG-30 dipolyhydroxysterate, capric / caprylic acid jojoba, triglycerides, magnesium cetearyl sulfate octanoate, EDTA, dibutyl adipate, cyclomethicone, grape seed oil, grape gum, xanthan gum, citric acid oil, sodium lauryl sulfate, waxes and mineral oils, isostearyl isostearate, propylene glycol dipelargonate,Propylene glycol isostearate, PEG-8, beeswax, hydrogenated palm kernel oil glycerides, hydrogenated palm oil glycerides, lanolin oil, sesame oil, cetyl lactate, lanolin alcohol, castor oil, titanium dioxide, lactose, sucrose, low-density polyethylene, isotonic saline solution.

[0060] According to a particular embodiment, the extract represents from 0.01 to 10% by weight of the composition. In other words, a cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises the extract defined above advantageously at a level of 0.01% to 10% by total weight of the composition, even more advantageously from 0.1% to 5%, preferably between 1% and 3%.

[0061] The cosmetic composition may, in addition to the extract according to the invention, contain other active ingredients of interest.

[0062] In the context of the invention, the terms "active compound," "active ingredient," and "active principle" are used interchangeably and refer to a substance or compound that possesses biological and / or therapeutic properties underlying a physiological effect. The active compound, active ingredient, or active principle is to be distinguished from the excipient(s) as defined above.

[0063] Active ingredients of interest for the skin may have the same activity as the extract according to the invention, or a complementary activity.

[0064] Assets of interest in both the cosmetic and dermatological fields are well known to those skilled in the art

[0065] According to a particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition is presented in a form suitable for cutaneous or topical application.

[0066] In the context of the invention, the expression "composition for cutaneous application" or "for topical use" refers to a composition compatible with application to the skin, mucous membranes, hair and / or scalp, preferably human skin.

[0067] Thus and according to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is in a galenic form suitable for acceptable cosmetic use, i.e. compatible with the skin, mucous membranes, hair and scalp.

[0068] Thus, the composition according to the invention may be in the form of an aqueous, hydroalcoholic, organic, or oily solution; a suspension or dispersion in solvents or fatty substances, such as a lotion or serum; a vesicular dispersion; or an emulsion, in particular water-in-oil (W / O), oil-in-water (O / W), or a combination emulsion such as a water-in-oil-in-water (W / O / W) emulsion. The emulsion may be more or less thick and may be in the form of a cream or a lotion; the composition of the invention may also be in the form of an ointment, gel, solid stick, anhydrous paste or solid product, foam, in particular an aerosol, a biphasic composition, or a sprayable composition.

[0069] The composition may be formulated as a solution, aqueous or oily, cream, serum, aqueous gel or oily gel, in particular in a jar or tube, in particular a shower gel, shampoo, milk, emulsion, microemulsion or nanoemulsion, in particular oil-in-water or water-in-oil or multiple or silicone, lotion, in particular in a glass bottle, plastic bottle or dosing bottle or aerosol, ampoule, liquid soap, dermatological bar, ointment, foam, anhydrous product, preferably liquid, paste or solid, for example in stick form, powders.

[0070] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention is in the form of a cream, lotion, solution, emulsion, gel, oil, stick, foam, powder, spray or mist.

[0071] The galenic form of the composition as well as its method of preparation, and consequently the excipients appropriate to the composition of the invention, can be chosen by a person skilled in the art on the basis of their general knowledge according to the type of composition sought.

[0072] In particular, the composition may include any fat commonly used in cosmetics. Examples include fats such as oils and waxes of vegetable, mineral, animal, and / or synthetic origin. The oils may be volatile or non-volatile. Other examples include synthetic esters and ethers, fatty alcohols, and fatty acids. The composition may also include an aqueous medium, a hydroalcoholic medium containing an alcohol such as ethanol or isopropanol, or an organic medium comprising common organic solvents such as Cl-6 alcohols, particularly ethanol and isopropanol, glycols such as propylene glycol, and ketones.Naturally, a person skilled in the art will ensure that any additional adjuvants or excipients, and / or their quantity, are chosen in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the envisaged addition. The composition may include at least one conventional emulsifier, chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic, or nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or in mixtures. It may be particularly advantageous to formulate the composition of the invention so that it is sprayable. This can be achieved, for example, by formulating specific emulsions comprising particular combinations of excipients.

[0073] According to another aspect, the invention relates to the application of an extract as defined above, advantageously of a composition containing it, to the skin, mucous membranes, hair and / or scalp.

[0074] In one embodiment of the invention, the method consists of the topical application of the extract or the composition comprising it to all or part of the human body chosen from among the legs, feet, armpits, hands, thighs, stomach, décolleté, neck, arms, torso, back, labial mucosa, face and / or scalp, advantageously the décolleté and / or face, further advantageously the face.

[0075] Another object of the invention relates to the use of the extract or composition according to the invention in various cosmetic and / or dermatological applications, or to prevent and / or treat various conditions described below.

[0076] In other words, the invention also aims to: - the extract or composition according to the invention for these different applications; and / or - the use of the extract or composition according to the invention, to prepare a medicinal product intended to prevent and / or treat these various conditions; and / or - a method for preventing and / or treating these different conditions including topical administration of the extract or composition according to the invention.

[0077] Thus, and depending on the activities highlighted for the extract according to the invention, the present application covers both cosmetic care processes and therapeutic uses.

[0078] For the purposes of this invention, "cosmetic use and / or cosmetic composition" means a non-pharmaceutical use and / or composition, that is, one that does not require therapeutic treatment, and is intended for any area of ​​skin, including the scalp, and / or mucous membranes, considered healthy. "Healthy skin and / or mucous membranes" means all or part of an area of ​​skin, including the scalp and / or healthy mucous membranes, particularly human skin, to which the extract according to the invention is applied and which is considered "non-pathological" by a dermatologist, that is, free from infection, scarring, disease, or skin condition such as candidiasis, impetigo, psoriasis, eczema, acne, or dermatitis, or from wounds or injuries and / or other dermatoses. This therefore refers to the use of the extract on an area of ​​skin and / or mucous membranes of subjects, particularly human subjects, that are considered "normal" by a dermatologist.

[0079] In particular, an extract or composition according to the invention can be used as an antioxidant agent, healing agent, anti-inflammatory agent, anti-acne agent, or in the treatment of alterations of skin, lip, hair, and / or mucous membrane cells caused by stresses, particularly environmental stressors (e.g., pollution).

[0080] In addition, and more specifically related to the field of cosmetics and aesthetics, it can be used as a moisturizing agent, anti-aging agent, soothing agent, barrier function regenerator or bleaching agent. FIGURES

[0081] [Fig. 1]: Test protocols to demonstrate new cosmetic effects of an extract according to the invention EXAMPLES OF ACHIEVEMENTS

[0082] The invention and its advantages will become clearer from the following embodiments, supported by the accompanying figure. These, however, are not intended to be limiting. 1 / Preparation of the active ingredient according to the invention

[0083] 1 / Preparation of the yeast extract A yeast extract of Saccharomyces cerevisiae was prepared and used at a concentration of between 30g / L and 300g / L.

[0084] 2 / Preparation of the bacterium carrying the glutamate decarboxylase activity The bacterium Levilactobacillus brevis was cultured under suitable conditions on an MRS (Man Rogosa, Sharpe) type medium.

[0085] The culture thus obtained is used as is or subjected to lyophilization and then used in the step of converting glutamic acid into GABA.

[0086] 3 / Conversion of glutamic acid into GABA Bioconversion is carried out at a temperature between 30 and 40°C and a pH between 5 and 7. Inoculation of the extract with the bacterial culture initiates bioconversion. The bioconversion time is approximately 24 to 70 hours. The reaction is stopped when the conversion to GABA is greater than 90%, ideally complete.

[0087] The GABA-rich extract thus obtained is then subjected to thermal inactivation and then centrifuged.

[0088] The composition of the final extract obtained, in dry form, is given in the table below:

[0089] [Tables 1] Nitrogen (g%g dry) Total awine acids (g%g dry) Free awine acids (g%g dry) Chjtendquc acid (g%g dry) GABA (g%g dry) 8.2 18 0J8 7 / 5

[0090] II / Demonstration of the impact of the extract according to the invention on the skin

[0091] The effect of a yeast extract such as that obtained in (I), and therefore rich in GABA, was evaluated on different skin cells. These experiments were carried out in parallel on: - the same extract but not incubated in the presence of lactic acid bacteria; - commercial pure synthetic GABA (Ref. A2129, Sigma-Aldrich);

[0092] The experimental setup is illustrated in [Fig.1]. 1 / Tested conditions:

[0093] • In vitro cultures of skin cells: human primary keratinocytes adult (primary epidermal cells) and primary human fibroblasts (primary dermal cells) • Incubation time: 24 hours • 4 conditions tested: • Untreated skin cells - Skin cells incubated in the presence of the GABA-enriched yeast extract according to the invention - Skin cells incubated in the presence of yeast extract not enriched with GABA - Skin cells incubated in the presence of commercially purified GABA (at the same concentration in the culture medium as in the presence of the GABA-enriched extract) 2 / Tests performed:

[0094] After incubation, the cell samples are used for mRNA recovery, cDNA synthesis and transcriptomic analysis.

[0095] The correlation between the genes whose expression is modulated and possible cosmetic applications is shown in the table below:

[0096] [Tables2] Genes Cosmetic application involved in the synthesis, degradation of the extracellular matrix and anti-aging assembly involved in cell-matrix interactions Jules-cells and anti-aging encoding growth factors, cellular proliferation anti-aging; regenerating involved in the integrity of the cytoskeleton.'Bearer function; protective effect encoding factors responding to oxidative stress, including anti-aging: anti-UV; antioxidant involved in inflammation, soothing involved in cell death, desquamation, cell cycle and anti-aging: cell renewal involved in cell differentiation, barrier function, protection involved in lipid synthesis, protection encoding hydration factors, hydrating involved in the expression of anti-microbial peptides _________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________: .

[0097] Thus, the modifications observed at the transcriptomic level allow for the allegation of cosmetic indications (anti-aging, regenerating, moisturizing, soothing, protective against (vis de stress oxidatif...) for an extract according to the invention combining the naturalness, and the presence of GABA, of the various constituents of the yeast extract and of post-biotics, in this case inactivated lactic acid bacteria.

[0098] III / Cosmetic compositions comprising an extract according to the invention

[0099] By way of example, three formulations incorporating a yeast extract obtained as described in (I) (referred to as "products of the invention" in the tables below) were prepared. These are cosmetic compositions for topical application, prepared by mixing different parts A, B, C, D, E, or F according to the conventional knowledge of a person skilled in the art.

[0100] [Tables3] Formulation 4a: Cosmetic Composition A Water Butylene Glycol Glycerin Sodium Dihydroxycetyl Phosphate Isopropyl Hydroxycetyl Ether qsq 100 2 3 2 B Glycol Stearate SE 14 Triisoninoamine 5 Octyl Cocoate 6 C Butylene Glycol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Propylparaben, pH adjusted to 5.5 2 D Products of the invention* 0.01-10%

[0101] [Tables4] Formulation 4bF A Water Butylene Glycol Glycerin Polyacrylamide, Isoparaffin, Laureth-7 qsq 100 2 3 2.8 B Butylene Glycol Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Propylparaben Phenoxyethanol Methylparaben Propylparaben, Butylparaben, Ethylparaben Butylene Glycol, 2 2 0.5 D Products of the Invention* 0.01 -10%

[0102] [Tables5] Formulation 4c): A Carbohydrate Propylene glycol Glycerol Water 0.50 3 5 qsp 100 B Quacyl cocoate 5 Bisamine 0.30 D-methicone 0.30 C Sodium Hydroxide 1.60 O Phenoxyethanol Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Butylparaben Ethylparaben 0.50 E Parfum 0.30 F______________________________________ Product of the invention* 0.01-10¾______________________

Claims

Demands

1. Natural extract, preferably extracted from yeast, rich in gamma-aminobutyric acid (GABA), advantageously comprising at least 5% by weight of GABA, the percentage by weight being expressed in relation to the dry weight of the extract.

2. Extract according to claim 1, characterized in that it is low in glutamic acid, advantageously comprising less than 10% by weight of glutamic acid, advantageously less than 5%, even more advantageously less than 1%.

3. Extract according to any one of claims 1 to 2, characterized in that it is obtained from a yeast strain capable of synthesizing glutamic acid, for example from the species Saccharomyces cerevisiae.

4. Extract according to claim 3, characterized in that it is obtained by incubating the yeast extract in the presence of a bacterium producing a glutamate decarboxylase (GAD) enzyme, advantageously carrying the GadA and / or GadB or even GadC genes, or of a lysate of such a bacterium.

5. Extract according to claim 4, characterized in that the bacterium belongs to the family of lactobacillaceae, advantageously chosen from the group consisting of: Levilactobacilus brevis, Lentilactobacilus buchneri and Lactococcus lactis.

6. Extract according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is a water-soluble extract, advantageously in dry form.

7. Extract according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises inactivated bacteria.

8. A topical composition comprising an extract according to any one of claims 1 to 7, the extract advantageously representing from 0.01 to 10% by weight of the composition.

9. Composition according to claim 8, characterized in that it is in a form suitable for topical application, advantageously in that it is in the form of a cream, lotion, solution, emulsion, gel, oil, stick, foam, powder, spray or mist.

10. Composition according to claim 8 or 9 for use as an antioxidant, healing agent, anti-inflammatory agent, agent

11. anti-acne, or in the treatment of alterations to skin cells, lips, hair, and / or mucous membranes caused by environmental stresses. Cosmetic use of a composition according to claim 8 or 9 for the preparation of a cosmetic composition, in particular as a moisturizing agent, anti-aging agent, soothing agent, barrier function restoring agent, or bleaching agent.

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