Oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic composition based on a lamellar structure comprising a thiopyridinone compound, a reducing agent and a chelating agent
A cosmetic composition with thiopyridinone compounds, fatty alcohols, and chelating agents stabilizes the emulsion, addressing photostability and sensory issues, ensuring long-term effectiveness and stability.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2024005800
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2024-06-03
- Publication Date
- 2025-12-05
AI Technical Summary
Existing oil-in-water emulsion compositions based on a lamellar structure with thiopyridinone compounds face challenges in photostability and chemical stability, making it difficult to maintain sensory properties and effectiveness over time, particularly under UV radiation.
A cosmetic composition comprising thiopyridinone compounds, saturated fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, inorganic reducing agents, and organic chelating agents, which stabilize the emulsion and enhance photostability and sensory properties.
The composition maintains stability over 24 hours at 25°C and two months at 4°C and 45°C, ensuring brightening and whitening effects while maintaining sensory qualities.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Cosmetic composition of the oil-in-water emulsion type, based on a lamellar structure comprising a thiopyridinone compound, a reducing agent and a chelating agent
[0001] The invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic one, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, based on a specific lamellar phase structure comprising (1) at least one thiopyridinone compound, (4) at least one reducing agent, preferably inorganic, and (5) at least one chelating agent, different from (4), preferably organic.
[0002] The type of galenic formulation considered by the present invention, namely a lamellar oil-in-water emulsion, requires in particular the presence of (2) at least one saturated fatty alcohol in Ci6-C22 and (3) at least one anionic surfactant comprising at least one hydrocarbon chain in Ci6-C22-
[0003] This type of galenic formulation has notably been described in patent applications WO2018108878 and WO2020002538 for developing compositions dedicated to masking skin imperfections, hydrating the skin and / or treating the signs of skin aging, in particular the appearance of fine lines and deep wrinkles, which increase with age.
[0004] Furthermore, at different times in their lives, some people develop darker and / or more pigmented spots on their skin, particularly on their face and hands, which give the skin its heterogeneity. These spots are due to a high concentration of melanin in the keratinocytes located on the surface of the skin.
[0005] The use of harmless topical depigmenting substances that are effective in treating pigment spots is particularly desirable. For example, arbutin, niacinamide, and kojic acid are known as skin depigmenting agents.
[0006] In this respect, certain thiopyridinone compounds are particularly interesting because they exhibit good depigmenting activity, even at low concentrations, as indicated in several patent applications such as WO2017 / 102349. Indeed, these thiopyridinone compounds can have strong depigmenting or whitening effects by reducing melanin production.
[0007] However, these thiopyridinone compounds possess physicochemical properties that make them difficult to (photo)stabilize. This type of problem has been described in particular in patent application FR3137834 AL
[0008] In addition, oil-in-water emulsion compositions based on a specific lamellar structure are difficult to stabilize physico-chemically, this is due in particular to the use of a particular surfactant.
[0009] It is therefore difficult to obtain oil-in-water emulsion type cosmetic compositions, based on a lamellar structure comprising at least one thiopyridinone compound which remain physico-chemically stable, and in which said thiopyridinone compound is not degraded, in particular under the action of UV radiation.
[0010] Therefore, there remains a need to provide oil-in-water emulsion type cosmetic compositions, based on a lamellar structure, comprising a photostable thiopyridinone compound and which have good sensory properties such as touch after application, little change in odor over time, and which allow the skin to have brightening and whitening effects.
[0011] The present invention also aims at the development of oil-in-water lamellar phase compositions conforming to the previous requirements, having satisfactory stability, in particular stability evaluated after 24h at 25°C and after two months of storage at 4°C, 25°C and 45°C.
[0012] The invention relates to a composition, particularly a cosmetic one, comprising: (1) one or more compounds selected from the compounds of formula (I) below, the tautomers of formula (!') below, their salts, their solvates, such as their hydrates, their optical isomers, their racemates, and their mixtures: [Chem.l] ù) m in which Ri denotes a radical chosen from a) a hydrogen atom, and b) a linear saturated alkyl group in Ci-CiO or in C3-CiO optionally branched and substituted by one or more groups, which may be the same or different, chosen from i) -O-R3, and ii) -S-R3, and R2 denotes a radical chosen from a) a hydrogen atom, b) a linear saturated hydrocarbon group in CrCi2 or branched in C3-Ci2 or cyclic in C3-C8 optionally substituted by one or more groups, which may be the same or different, chosen from i) -O-R3, ii) -S-R3, iii) -C(O)-O-R3, and iv) a C5-Ci2 aryl group optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups and / or by one or more CrC8 alkoxy radicals, and c) an aryl group in C5-Ci2, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups and / or by one or more alkoxy radicals in CrC8 in which R3 designates a radical chosen from a) a hydrogen atom, and b) a linear saturated alkyl group in Ci-Cio or branched in C3-C10; (2) one or more saturated fatty alcohol(s) in Ci6-C22; (3) one or more anionic surfactant(s) comprising at least one hydrocarbon chain in Ci6-C22; (4) one or more reducing agent(s); and (5) one or more chelating agent(s) different from (4), allows to obtain good stability properties of the composition as well as good photo stability of the thiopyridinone compound (1).
[0013] The invention also relates to a method for treating keratinous materials, preferably a whitening method, in particular for facial and / or body skin, comprising the application of said composition to said keratinous materials.
[0014] The invention also relates to the use of such a composition for the treatment of keratinous materials, in particular for the care of the skin of the body and / or face.
[0015] We have found, surprisingly, that a composition, particularly a cosmetic one, comprising: (1) one or more of a compound selected from the compounds of formula (I) below, the tautomers of formula (!') below, their salts, their solvates, such as their hydrates, their optical isomers, their racemates, and their mixtures: [Chem. 2] in which Ri denotes a radical chosen from a) a hydrogen atom, and b) a linear saturated C1-C10 or C3-C10 branched alkyl group optionally substituted by one or more groups, which may be the same or different, chosen from i) -O-R3, and ii) -S-R3, and R2 denotes a radical chosen from a) a hydrogen atom, b) a linear saturated C1-C12 or branched C3-C12 or cyclic C3-C8 hydrocarbon group optionally substituted by one or more groups, which may be the same or different, chosen from i) -O-R3, ii) -S-R3, iii) -C(O)-O-R3, and iv) a C5-C12 aryl group optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups and / or by one or more CrC8 alkoxy radicals, and c) an aryl group in C5-C12, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups and / or by one or more alkoxy radicals in CrC8 in which R3 designates a radical chosen from a) a hydrogen atom, and b) a linear saturated alkyl group in Ci-Cio or branched in C3-C10; (2) one or more saturated fatty alcohol(s) in Ci6-C22; (3) one or more anionic surfactant(s) comprising at least one hydrocarbon chain in Ci6-C22; (4) one or more inorganic reducing agent(s), its mesomeric forms, its solvates such as hydrates or mixtures thereof; and (5) one or more chelating agent(s) different from (4), allows good stability properties of the composition as well as good photostability of the thiopyridinone compound.
[0016] A composition can be considered to remain stable when its properties after two months of storage at 4°C, 25°C and 45°C remain close to those characterized at 24h at 25°C.
[0017] Thus, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising: (1) one or more compounds selected from the compounds of formula (1) below, the tautomers of formula (1') below, their salts, their solvates, such as their hydrates, their optical isomers, their racemates, and their mixtures: [Chem. 3] he) (r) in which Ri denotes a radical chosen from a) a hydrogen atom, and b) a linear saturated C1-C10 or C3-C10 branched alkyl group optionally substituted by one or more groups, which may be the same or different, chosen from i) -O-R3, and ii) -S-R3, and R2 denotes a radical chosen from a) a hydrogen atom, b) a linear saturated C1-C12 or branched C3-C12 or cyclic C3-C8 hydrocarbon group optionally substituted by one or more groups, which may be the same or different, chosen from i) -O-R3, ii) -S-R3, iii) -C(O)-O-R3, and iv) a C5-C12 aryl group optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups and / or by one or more CrC8 alkoxy radicals, and c) an aryl group in C5-C12, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups and / or by one or more alkoxy radicals in CrC8 where R3 designates a radical chosen from a) a hydrogen atom,and b) a linear saturated alkyl group in the C1-C10 range or a branched alkyl group in the C3-C10 range; , (2) one or more saturated fatty alcohol(s) in Ci6-C22; (3) one or more anionic surfactant(s) comprising at least one hydrocarbon chain in Ci6-C22; (4) one or more reducing agent(s), preferably inorganic and (5) one or more chelating agent(s) other than (4), preferably organic.
[0018] The composition according to the invention is in a particular form intended for topical application, in particular on keratinous materials, especially the skin.
[0019] It includes in particular a “cosmetically acceptable” medium also called a “physiologically acceptable” medium, that is to say a medium compatible with all keratinous materials, in particular the skin.
[0020] For the purposes of the present invention, "keratinous materials" means the skin and its appendages.
[0021] By “skin” we mean human skin, in particular of the face and / or body, the scalp.
[0022] By “annexes” we mean human keratinous fibres, in particular eyelashes, eyebrows, nails, and hair, in particular eyelashes and hair.
[0023] In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the bounds of a range of values are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between" and "ranging from ... to ...".
[0024] Furthermore, the expression "at least one" used in this description is equivalent to the expression "one or more". (1) Thiopyridinone compound(s)
[0025] The composition according to the present invention comprises one or more thiopyridinone compound(s) (1). Two or more thiopyridinone compounds (1) may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of thiopyridinone compound (1) or a combination of different types of thiopyridinone compounds (1) may be used.
[0026] The compound thiopyridinone (1) is selected from the compounds of formula (I) below, the tautomers of formula (!') below, their salts, their solvates, such as their hydrates, their optical isomers, their racemates and their mixtures: [Chem. 4] {0 03 Formulas (I) and (!') in which: Ri denotes a radical chosen from: a) a hydrogen atom, and b) a linear saturated alkyl group in C1-C10 or C3-C10, optionally branched and substituted by one or more groups, which may be identical or different, chosen from: i) -O-R3, and ii) -S-R3, and R2 denotes a radical chosen from: a) a hydrogen atom, b) a saturated hydrocarbon group in linear C1-C12 or branched C3-Ci2 or cyclic C3-C8, optionally substituted by one or more groups, which may be identical or different, chosen from: i) -O-R3, ü) -S-R3, iii) -C(O)-O-R3, and (iv) an aryl group in C5-Ci2 optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups and / or by one or more CrC8 alkoxy radicals, and c) an aryl group in C5-Ci2, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyls and / or by one or more alkoxy radicals in CrC8; in which R3 denotes a radical chosen from: a) a hydrogen atom, and b) a linear saturated alkyl group in C1-C10 or branched in C3-C10.
[0027] Hereinafter, within the meaning of the present invention and unless otherwise indicated: - a hydrocarbon group "saturated, linear in C1-C]2 or branched in C3-C12" is equivalent to a "linear (in C1-C22) or branched (in C3-C22) alkyl group" which corresponds to a saturated hydrocarbon group, linear in CrCi2 or branched in C3-C12, preferably a linear hydrocarbon group in C1-C10 or branched in C3-Ci0, and more preferably a linear hydrocarbon group in Ci-C6 or branched in C3-C6#; Preferably, the linear or branched groups may be chosen from the methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl and tert-butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl and decyl groups; More preferably, the saturated alkyl groups, linear or branched, can be chosen from the methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl and tert-butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl and octyl groups, such as methyl, ethyl, n-pentyl, n-nonyl, isobutyl; - a saturated hydrocarbon group "cyclic in C3-Cs" is a mono- or bicyclic cycloalkyl group containing 3 to 8 carbon atoms, and in particular is a monocyclic cycloalkyl group in C5 to C7 such as a cyclohexyl group, - an "alkoxy radical" is an alkyl-oxy radical for which the alkyl radical is a linear or branched CrCi6 hydrocarbon radical, and preferably a Ci-C8 hydrocarbon radical; - when the alkoxy group is optionally substituted, this implies that the alkyl group is optionally substituted as defined above; - an "aryl" group represents a carbon-based group, monocyclic or bicyclic, fused or not, comprising from 5 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 10 carbon atoms, and in which at least one ring is aromatic; preferably, the aryl radical is a phenyl, biphenyl, or naphthyl group, more preferably a phenyl group; and - the term "inclusive" for a concentration range means that the limits of that range are included in the defined range.
[0028] The salts of compounds of formula (I), (I'), (II), or (II') as defined below include conventional non-toxic salts of said compounds, such as those formed from an organic or inorganic acid or an organic or inorganic base.
[0029] As examples of salts of compounds of formula (I), (I'), (II) or (II'), we may mention# the salts obtained by adding the compound of formula (I) or (II) to: - a mineral base, such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, ammonium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, and sodium, potassium, or calcium carbonate or hydrogen carbonate, for example; or - an organic base such as a primary, secondary, or tertiary alkylamine, for example, triethylamine or butylamine. This primary, secondary, or tertiary alkylamine may contain one or more nitrogen and / or oxygen atoms and may thus include, for example, one or more alcohol groups. Examples include 2-amino-2-methylpropanol, ethanolamine, triethanolamine, 2-dimethylaminopropanol, 2-amino-2-(hydroxymethyl)-1,3-propanediol, and 3-(dimethylamino)propylamine.
[0030] Other examples include amino acid salts, for instance lysine, arginine, guanidine, glutamic acid, and aspartic acid. Advantageously, the salts of compounds of formula (I) or (II) (when they include a carboxy group) can be selected from alkali or alkaline earth metal salts such as sodium, potassium, calcium, or magnesium salts and ammonium salts.
[0031] An "organic or inorganic acid salt" is more particularly chosen from salts selected from a salt derived from i) hydrochloric acid HCl, ii) hydrobromic acid HBr, iii) sulfuric acid H2SO4, iv) alkylsulfonic acids: Alk-S(O)2OH such as methanesulfonic acid and ethanesulfonic acid; v) arylsulfonic acids: Ar-S(O)2OH such as benzenesulfonic acid and toluenesulfonic acid; vi) citric acid; vii) succinic acid; viii) tartaric acid; ix) lactic acid; x) alkoxysulfinic acids: Alk-OS(O)OH such as methoxysulfinic acid and ethoxysulfinic acid; xi) aryloxysulfinic acids such as tolueneoxysulfinic acid and phenoxysulfinic acid; xii) phosphoric acid H3PO4; xiii) acetic acid CH3 C(O)OH; xiv) triflic acid CF3SO3H; and xv) tetrafluoroboric acid HBF4.
[0032] Acceptable solvates of the compounds described in the specification include conventional solvates such as those formed during the preparation of said compounds due to the presence of solvents. Examples include solvates due to the presence of water or linear or branched alcohols, such as ethanol or isopropanol.
[0033] Optical isomers are in particular enantiomers and diastereomers.
[0034] The compound (!') is the tautomeric form of compound (I) when a tautomeric equilibrium exists according to the following scheme: [Chem. 5] O 0 ■%A N a (GO To — [IJR NS Rl A HH (Have)
[0035] According to one embodiment of the present invention, Ri represents a hydrogen atom.
[0036] According to another embodiment of the present invention, Ri represents a linear alkyl group (Ci-CiO) or a branched alkyl group (C3-CiO), in particular a linear alkyl group (Ci-C6) or a branched alkyl group (C3-C6), such as methyl, ethyl, n-pentyl, n-nonyl, isobutyl, more preferably ethyl. In particular, said alkyl group of Ri is unsubstituted.
[0037] According to one embodiment of the present invention, R2 represents a hydrogen atom.
[0038] According to one embodiment of the present invention, R2 represents a linear (Ci-Ci0) or branched (C3-Ci0) alkyl group, in particular a linear (Ci-C6) or branched (C3-C6) alkyl group, such as methyl, ethyl, n-pentyl, n-nonyl, isobutyl, more preferably methyl or ethyl; said alkyl group of R2 not being substituted.
[0039] According to another embodiment of the present invention, R2 represents a linear alkyl group (in C1-C10) or a branched alkyl group (in C3-C10), in particular a linear alkyl group (in C1-C6) or a branched alkyl group (in C3-C6), such that methyl, ethyl, n-pentyl, n-nonyl, isobutyl, more preferably methyl or ethyl; said alkyl group being substituted by one or more groups selected from i), ii), iii) and iv) as defined above. Preferably, said alkyl group being substituted by one or two groups selected from i), ii) and iii), more preferably by one or two groups selected from i) and iii), better substituted by a group iii) as a carboxy.
[0040] Another variant for the radical R2 is that said alkyl group is substituted by a group iv) in particular substituted by a phenyl group.
[0041] According to another embodiment of the present invention, R2 represents a cycloalkyl group (in C3-C8), preferably a cycloalkyl group (in C5-C7) such as cyclohexyl.
[0042] According to another embodiment of the present invention, R2 represents an aryl group in C5-Ci2 optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyls and / or by one or more alkoxy radicals in CrC8, preferably a phenyl group in particular unsubstituted.
[0043] According to one embodiment, R3 represents a hydrogen atom.
[0044] According to another embodiment, R3 represents a saturated alkyl group, linear in Ci-Cio or branched in C3-Ci0; in particular a linear (in Ci-C6) or branched (in C3-C6) alkyl group, preferably an alkyl group (in CrC4) such as the methyl group.
[0045] Preferably, the compounds of formula (I) and the tautomer (!') or their salts, their optical isomers, racemates, and / or solvates such as their hydrates and their derivatives, alone or in mixtures, have the following meanings: Ri designates a radical chosen from: a) a hydrogen atom, and b) a linear saturated alkyl group in the C1-C6 range or branched in the C3-C6 range, optionally substituted by one or more groups, which may be identical or different, chosen from: i) -O-R3, and ii) -S-R3, preferably optionally substituted by one or more groups i)#; R2 denotes a radical chosen from: a) a hydrogen atom; b) a linear saturated hydrocarbon group in C1-C1O or branched in C3-C1O or cyclic in C3-C8 such as in C5-C6 optionally substituted by one or more groups, which may be identical or different, chosen from#: i) -O-R3, ii) -S-R3, iii) -C(O)-O-R3, and (iv) a phenyl group optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups and / or by one or more C1-C4 alkoxy radicals such as methoxy, preferably substituted by one or more groups selected from (i) and (iii), preferably (iii) such as carboxy; and R3 designates a radical chosen from: a) a hydrogen atom, and b) a linear saturated CrC6 or C3-C6 branched alkyl group
[0046] Preferably, the compounds of formula (I) and the tautomer (!') or their salts, their optical isomers, racemates, and / or their solvates such as their hydrates, alone or in mixtures, have the following meanings: Ri denotes a radical chosen from: a) a hydrogen atom, and b) a linear saturated C1-C4 or C3-C4 branched alkyl group optionally substituted by one or more groups, which may be identical or different, chosen from i) -OR3>plus preferably unsubstituted; R2 denotes a radical chosen from: a) a hydrogen atom; and b) a linear saturated hydrocarbon group in C1-C10 or branched in C3-C10 or cyclic in C3-C8 such as in C5-C6, optionally substituted by one or more groups, which may be identical or different, chosen from: i) -O-R3, iii) -C(O)-O-R3, (iv) an aryl group in the C5-C12 position optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups and / or by one or more CrC4 alkoxy radicals; and R3 denotes a radical chosen from a) a hydrogen atom, and b) a linear saturated alkyl group in C1-C4 or branched in C3-C4 such as methyl or ethyl.
[0047] Preferably, the compounds of formula (I) and the tautomer (!') or their salts, their optical isomers, racemates, and / or their solvates such as their hydrates, alone or in mixtures, have the following meanings: Ri is a hydrogen atom; and R2 denotes a radical chosen from: a) a hydrogen atom, and (b) a linear saturated hydrocarbon group in C1-C5 or branched in C3-C5 or cyclic in C3-C8 such as in C5-C6, substituted by one or more groups, which may be identical or different, preferably substituted by a group iii) -C(O)-O-R3#; more preferably R2 is a linear saturated hydrocarbon group in C1-C4 or branched in C3-C4 substituted by a group iii) -C(O)-O-R3; and R3 designates a radical chosen from: a) a hydrogen atom, and b) a linear saturated alkyl group in C1-C4 or branched in C3-C4 such as methyl or ethyl.
[0048] According to another preferred embodiment, the compounds of formula (I) and the tautomer (!') are chosen from the compounds of formula (II) below and also their tautomers of formula (II') below, their salts, their solvates and their optical isomers, and their racemates, alone or in mixture: [Tables 1] ..... L, 4^ ° N 'S 1 H 9 -¾- y ^r3 J . 4 0 SH 1 (H) (fi')
[0049] In formulas (II) and (II') Ri and R3 have the same meaning as Ri and R3 in the compounds of formula (I) and (I') and X denotes an alkylene radical -(CH2)n- with n being an integer from 1 to 10 inclusive, preferably from 1 to 6, more preferably from 1 to 4, such that 1, preferably R3 represents a hydrogen atom.
[0050] Among the compounds of formula (I), the following compounds are preferably used, and their tautomer (I1) or their salts, their optical isomers, racemates and / or their solvates such as their hydrates, alone or in mixture: [Tables 2] N Structure Chemical Name CAS N' 1 / 'Sx "'"'■-f / 'vsi, î h •: h I ^'>•1 '"x H N-ethyl-2-thioxo-1,2-dihydropyridine-3-carboxamide 91859-75-5 2 ........... ;.;X\ ------ > ......<3 N-methylU24Noxo-1,2-dihydropyridine-3^ carboxamide 91859-74-4 3 N-octyi-24thioxo-1,2-dihydropyridine-3-carboxamide 91859-77-7 4 « N-benzyl-2-thioxo-12-dihydropyridine-3-carboxamide 91859-79-9 5 r------, -- .....cs N-phenyi-2-thioxo-1,2-dihydropyridine-3-carbGxamiide 104857-16-1 6 Ü s HN -cyclohexyi-2-thfoxo-1,2-dihydropyridine ine-3-carboxamide 91859-78-8
[0051] Among these compounds, the following compounds are particularly preferred: [Tables 3] N: StruduEe Name of the moüe CAS N' '''xV' i ; ; N-êthyi-2-fhæxe-l ,2- ®yà;Cf>yfi£Hn&-3-œt&oxamidë 91859-75-5 2 .-•'Z xx y? %xy \ y \x XX. Nrmétÿ^2-Woxo-1,2- <ihy^opyriàinfr-3- •caEboxafliàfe 91859-74-4 4 Nrben^-2toœ<»-1,2-d^y&opyrèSn&-3-càfboxæwte 91859-79-9 S ' •: ■ N-cyclshexyl-2-tiiisxG-1 ;2-^hydrQpyndme-3-carboxonide 9W59-78-8 î‘ y xy *■ *’ ..■'•"’xx... N-g-(4- mètho.' y uben / S îèthy |- 2- dih^ropM <tine- 3-casrhc / arnsdH 923582-88-6 9 .y X;v*' X.'- ‘v' N-perfy!-2-ttîia<(ï-1:2-®y&àpyfidin&-3-œt&oxamidë 33ÛS67-57-7 11 X“y‘'Z N-{2-hv> k^yéthy[}-2-ïh:G ^0-1 2-d;b,drç>p)i 4ine-3-■a;bGxan';de
[0052] More preferably, among these compounds, the following compounds are particularly preferred: [Tables 4] r Structure Chemical Name CAS N" b \......t. N-ethÿf2-tliaxo-t2- carboxamsde 91S59-75-5 9 y X ' N-pentyl-24Wi<Q-1 ;2-drW^Wf^e-3-carboxamsde 330667-57-7 16 ■> eh .... Ji £ ... f WV T'" £ „,X £ 'VS \ £ N-K2-WiOXû-1,2- djhydropyridtn-3-yOcafbcnyila&niriafe d'ethyl [Tables 4] 18 ... 1 .. tX ï- Y N-mètiiy f N-[{2-th is / a-1,2-dihydropyi rdsn-3-yilcarixmy Qgïy ctnate d'ethyl 19 ... Jl, . <X! T N-K2-thisxo-1,2-dÉhydropyriéin-3-yîJCBtoy^^iate d’éthyle 20 a / " N-[(2-thso;<ü-1,2-dWdropyri^ yl)caj6onyllglycw 21 XÔ: « N-æèW-N-K2-thrax^ 1,2-dlhydropy r idl n-3-yljcarbeny Qgl y cine
[0053]
[0054] Even more preferred, among these compounds, the following compounds are particularly preferred: [Tables 5] N* Strudure Chemical Name CAS A 18 s< .JA -AA ' ■ s AH M-æ?thM-bHs2 thæxo-T2-dhydrGpi'n^fi-3- of ethyl 18 N-g2-thteo-1,2- of et^ÿle 20 SS hHi2-thAv-1 2- yOœrtŒylWciœ 21 xx A x? if 1,2-cëhycfcw Ftdin-3-
[0055]
[0056] In a most preferred embodiment, the compound according to the present invention is as follows:
[0057] [Tableauxô] 20 >î N-[(2«œ <M,2-d®yôTOpynô&s-3-
[0058] All the above compounds can be obtained by a chemical process known to those skilled in the art, from commercially available reagents.
[0059] The thiopyridinone compound (1) can be prepared in accordance with the process described, for example, in document EP-A-3390363 or WO2017 / 102349.
[0060] The compound thiopyridinone (1) can be an active ingredient or an active compound in cosmetic or dermatological products. The term "active ingredient" or "active compound" used here refers to an ingredient or compound that has an active cosmetic or dermatological property, such as antioxidant, whitening, or other effects. UV filtration and antibacterial effects. The thiopyridinone compound (1) used in the present invention can function as a depigmenting, bleaching or whitening agent, and thus the composition according to the present invention can be used as a bleaching product or as a cosmetic composition for bleaching keratinous material.
[0061] The compound thiopyridinone (1) can be used as an agent for depigmenting, bleaching or whitening the skin, body hair, eyelashes or hair, and also the lips and / or nails, and preferably the skin, in particular for removing pigmentation spots or age spots, and / or as an anti-tanning agent.
[0062] According to a preferred embodiment, the amount of the thiopyridinone compound(s) (1) in the composition according to the present invention is greater than or equal to 0.01% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 0.05% by weight, and better greater than or equal to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0063] According to another preferred embodiment, the quantity of the thiopyridinone compound(s) (1) in the composition according to the present invention is less than or equal to 10% by weight, more preferably less than or equal to 5% by weight, and better less than or equal to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0064] Preferably, the quantity of the thiopyridinone compound(s) (1) in the composition according to the present invention is greater than or equal to 0.01% and less than or equal to 10% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 0.05% and less than or equal to 5% by weight, better greater than or equal to 0.1% and less than or equal to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (2) C16-C22 saturated fatty alcohol(s)
[0065] The composition according to the invention comprises (2) one or more saturated fatty alcohol(s) in Ci6-C22.
[0066] By "saturated fatty alcohol" is meant any alcohol comprising a saturated (without double or triple covalent bonds) and linear hydrocarbon chain, in particular a linear alkyl radical, said chain comprising between 16 and 22 carbon atoms and a hydroxyl function.
[0067] For the purposes of this invention, "hydrocarbon chain" means an organic group consisting mainly or even exclusively of hydrogen and carbon atoms. This chain is particularly free of silicon atoms and therefore not siliconized.
[0068] The saturated fatty alcohol (2) present in the composition according to the invention comprises between 16 and 22 carbon atoms, preferably between 16 and 18 carbon atoms.
[0069] The saturated fatty alcohol (2) present in the composition according to the invention is solid at room temperature (20 °C + / - 5°C) and advantageously has a -OH function at the end of the chain.
[0070] The saturated fatty alcohol (2) useful in the context of the present invention may in particular be chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenic alcohol and mixtures thereof, and preferably from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.
[0071] In a particularly preferred manner, a saturated fatty alcohol (2) selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof such as cetylstearyl alcohol (or cetostearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol - "ceteraryl alcohol" in English) will be used.
[0072] More preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of fatty alcohols (2) in Ci6 and in Ci8.
[0073] More preferably, the composition comprises a mixture of at least two fatty alcohols saturated respectively in Ci6 and in Ci8, preferably in a mass ratio of fatty alcohol(s) Ci6 / fatty alcohol(s) Ci8 varying from 20 / 80 to 80 / 20, and advantageously in a mass ratio of fatty alcohol(s) Ci6 / fatty alcohol(s) Ci8 equal to 50 / 50.
[0074] In particular the composition comprises at least one mixture of cetyl (Ci6) and stearyl (Ci8) alcohols, also called cetylstearyl alcohol.
[0075] According to a preferred embodiment, the quantity of the fatty alcohol(s) in Ci6-C 22(2) in the composition according to the present invention is greater than or equal to 1% and less than or equal to 10% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 2% and less than or equal to 8% by weight, and better greater than or equal to 2.5% and less than or equal to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0076] (3) Anionic surfactant(s) comprising at least one hydrocarbon chain in C 16 -C 22
[0077] The composition according to the invention comprises (3) one or more anionic surfactant(s) comprising at least one hydrocarbon chain in Ci6-C22.
[0078] The anionic surfactant (3) useful in the context of the invention comprises at least one hydrocarbon chain in Ci6-C22, preferably in Ci6-Ci8. This chain may be linear, saturated (without double or triple covalent bonds) or unsaturated (may contain one or more double and / or triple covalent bonds).
[0079] Preferably, the anionic surfactant (3) useful in the context of the invention comprises a single linear hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated.
[0080] In particular, the anionic surfactant (3) contains a single hydrocarbon chain in Ci6-C22, preferably in Ci6-Ci8.
[0081] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the anionic surfactant (3) is chosen from surfactants further comprising at least one sulfonate function, in particular as defined below in formula (III), acyl glutamates, and mixtures thereof.
[0082] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the anionic surfactant (3) is chosen from surfactants comprising at least one sulfonate function and mixtures thereof.
[0083] More specifically, the anionic surfactant (3) can be chosen from the surfactants of general formula (III): RC(O)-Y-(CH2)n-SO3M (III)
[0084] Formula (III) wherein: -R represents a saturated alkyl group, linear or branched in Ci6-C22; -Y represents -O- or -NR7- with R7 representing a linear or CrC3 branched alkyl group; - M is chosen from the group formed by a hydrogen atom, alkali or alkaline earth metal cations, ammonium salts and organic amines; - n is an integer ranging from 1 to 3; and their mixtures.
[0085] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the anionic surfactant (3) is selected from alkyl(Ci6-C22)sulfonate salts, alkyl(Ci6-C22)amidesulfonate salts, alkyl(Ci6-C22)arylsulfonate salts, alkyl(Ci6-C22)sulfoacetate salts, N-acyl(Ci6-C22)-N-alkyl(Ci-C6)taurate salts, acyl(Ci6-C22)isethionate salts, alkyl(Ci6-C22)sulfolaurate salts, and mixtures thereof.
[0086] Preferably, the anionic surfactant (3) is chosen from: - acylisethionates, the linear or branched acyl group comprising 16 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms; - N-acyl-N-alkyltaurates, the linear or branched acyl group comprising 16 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms, and the linear, branched alkyl group comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or cyclic group comprising 3 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably the alkyl group being a methyl; and - their mixtures; in particular in the form of alkali or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium, or amino alcohols.
[0087] As examples of N-acyl-N-alkyltaurates, one can cite sodium palmitoyl methyltaurate marketed under the name NIKKOL PMT® by the company Nikkol; the sodium salt of N-stearoyl N-methyl taurate (sodium N-stearoyl-N-methyltaurate) marketed under the name NIKKOL SMT by the company NIKKO.
[0088] Preferably, the anionic surfactant (3) is sodium N-stearoyl-N-methyltaurate.
[0089] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the anionic surfactant (3) is chosen from acyl glutamates whose acyl group comprises 16 to 18 carbon atoms.
[0090] Examples of acyl glutamates include palmitoyl glutamic acid, stearoyl glutamic acid, behenoyl glutamic acid, olivoyl glutamic acid, and salts of these acids, in particular alkali metal salts such as Na, Li, K, preferably Na or K, alkaline earth metal salts such as Mg or ammonium salts of said acids.
[0091] Examples include compounds bearing the INCI name sodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium olivoyl glutamate and their mixtures.
[0092] As salts of acyl glutamic acid, we can also mention sodium stearoyl glutamate such as that marketed under the name AMISOFT® HS 11 PF by the company AJINOMOTO and disodium stearoyl glutamate such as that marketed under the reference AMISOFT® HS-21P by the company AJINOMOTO.
[0093] According to another embodiment of the invention, a composition may comprise a mixture of at least one anionic surfactant (3) comprising at least one sulfonate function, in particular of formula (III) as detailed above, and at least one anionic surfactant (3) comprising at least one glutamate function, in particular as defined above.
[0094] According to a preferred embodiment, the quantity of the surfactant(s) (3) described according to the present invention is greater than or equal to 0.01% and less than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 0.05% and less than or equal to 2% by weight, and more preferably greater than or equal to 0.1% and less than or equal to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0095] In compositions according to the invention, the mass ratio of fatty alcohol(s) (2) / anionic surfactants (3) can vary from 10:1 to 6:4, preferably from 19:2 to 7:3, and even more preferably from 9:1 to 7:2.
[0096] Without wishing to be bound by any particular theory, it appears that the fatty alcohol(s) (2) and the anionic surfactant(s) (3) comprising at least one Ci6-C22 hydrocarbon chain form an alpha-crystalline phase, also called an alpha-gel, with the hydrophilic phase. This phase can notably be characterized by DSC analysis and by X-ray diffraction at a temperature below the melting point of the alpha-gel phase.
[0097] Thus, the composition according to the invention is capable of forming crystalline lamellar phases.
[0098] According to a particular embodiment, the compositions of the invention contain at least one swollen alpha-crystalline phase having a swelling period greater than 10 nm, and preferably greater than 12 nm, and even more preferably greater than or equal to 15 nm. The swelling period is defined as the sum of the thickness of a bilayer formed by the fatty alcohol(s) (2) and the anionic surfactant(s) (3) and the thickness of the water layer between two layers, this pattern being repeated several times.
[0099] According to a particular embodiment, in a composition according to the invention, the difference between the number of carbon atoms of the hydrocarbon chain of the anionic surfactant(s) (3) and the number of carbon atoms of the fatty alcohol(s) (2) does not differ by more than 5 carbon atoms, preferably it is less than or equal to 4. (4) Reducing agent
[0100] The composition according to the present invention comprises one or more reducing agent(s) (4), preferably one or more inorganic reducing agent(s).
[0101] The reducing agent (4), preferably inorganic, is more preferably chosen from reducing agents of general formula (IV), their mesomeric forms, their solvates such as hydrates and mixtures thereof:
[0102] [Chem. 6] O (IV) fi ******** q II Formula (IV) in which: X represents a heteroatom chosen from among the atoms of oxygen, sulfur, preferably oxygen; m is equal to 0 or 1; M+ is a cation, preferably chosen from alkali metals, alkaline earth metals and ammonium, more preferably chosen from alkali metals such as sodium or potassium. R represents a group chosen from: i) -OH; ii) -O-M'+, with M'+ is such as defined previously for M+;
[0103] iii) [Chem. 7] Formula iii) in which: - p corresponds to an integrator exclusively chosen between 0 and 4, preferably chosen from 0, 1, 2, more preferably 0 or 2; - m' is worth 0 or 1, preferably m' is worth 1; - X' is such as defined previously for X, preferably X' represents an oxygen atom; and - M”+ is such as defined previously for M+, and M+, M'+, M”+ are identical or different, preferably identical.
[0104] Preferably, the composition comprises an inorganic reducing agent of formula (IV) in which: - X represents a heteroatom chosen from oxygen and sulfur, preferably oxygen; - m is equal to 0 or 1; - M+ is a cation, preferably sodium or potassium; - R represents a group chosen from: i) -OH; ii) -O-M'+ with M'+ is such as defined previously for M+; iii) [Chem. 8] O [XV iii) in which: - p is equal to 0 or 2; - m' is worth 0 or 1; - X' as defined previously for X, preferably X' represents an oxygen atom; and - M+, M'+, M”+ are identical.
[0105] More preferably, the composition comprises an inorganic reducing agent of formula (IV) in which: - X represents a heteroatom chosen from oxygen and sulfur, preferably oxygen; - m is equal to 0 or 1; - M+ is a cation, preferably sodium or potassium; - R represents a group chosen from: i) -OH; ii) -O-M'+ with M'+ is such as defined previously for M+; iii) [Chem. 9] O >s» iii) in which: - p is equal to 0 or 2; - m' is worth 0 or 1; - X' represents an oxygen atom; and M+, M'+, M”+ are identical, chosen from sodium or potassium.
[0106] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition comprises an inorganic reducing agent of formula (II) in which: - X represents sulfur; - m equals 1; - M+ represents sodium or potassium, preferably sodium; - R represents a group chosen from: i) -OH; ii) -O-M'+ with M'+ is such as defined previously for M+ ; M+, M'+, M”+ are identical.
[0107] According to a particular embodiment, the compound of formula (IV) can be in one of its limiting (or mesomeric) forms by electron delocalization, if m = 0 then RS(O M+)=O RS(=0)-O M+ and if m = 1 then its limiting mesomeric forms are: RS(O M+)(=X)m=0 RS(=O)(=X)mO M+ RS(=O)(X M+)m=O in which, M+, M'+, M”+ are present to ensure the electronegativity of the molecule of formula (IV).
[0108] According to a preferred embodiment, the reducing agent (4), preferably inorganic, is selected from alkali metal bisulfite, alkali metal metabisulfite, alkali metal sulfite, alkali metal thiosulfate, alkali metal sulfate, alkali metal tetrathionate, more preferably selected from sodium bisulfate, sodium metabisulfite, sodium sulfite, sodium thiosulfate, sodium sulfate, potassium metabisulfite, potassium sulfite, potassium thiosulfate, potassium sulfate, potassium tetrathionate or mixtures thereof.
[0109] More preferably, the reducing agent (4) may be chosen from sodium bisulfite, sodium metabisulfite, sodium sulfite, sodium thiosulfate or sodium sulfate or mixtures thereof, better still the reducing agent (4) is sodium thiosulfate.
[0110] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the reducing agent (4) is an alkali metal thiosulfate such as sodium thiosulfate.
[0111] Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises a reducing agent (4) in an amount greater than or equal to 0.05% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 0.1% by weight, better greater than or equal to 0.2% by weight, and better still greater than or equal to 0.3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0112] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises a reducing agent (4) in an amount less than or equal to 2.0% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 1.0% by weight, more preferably less than or equal to 0.7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0113] According to another preferred embodiment, the amount of reducing agent (4) in the composition according to the present invention is greater than or equal to 0.05% and less than or equal to 2% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 0.1% and less than or equal to 1% by weight, and more preferably greater than or equal to 0.3% and less than or equal to 0.7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0114] According to another particularly preferred embodiment, the amount of inorganic reducing agent such as sodium thiosulfate is greater than or equal to 0.05% and less than or equal to 2% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 0.1% and less than or equal to 1% by weight, and more preferably greater than or equal to 0.3% and less than or equal to 0.7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (5) Chelating agent
[0115] The composition according to the present invention comprises (5) one or more chelating agent(s) different from (4). Two or more chelating agents may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of chelating agent or a combination of different types of chelating agents may be used.
[0116] The chelating agent (5) other than (4) may be an organic or inorganic chelating agent, preferably the chelating agent (5) other than (4) is chosen from among the organic chelating agents.
[0117] The chelating agent (5) may be selected from carboxylic acids, preferably aminocarboxylic acids, hydroxycarboxylic acids (hydroxylated acids), phosphonic acids, preferably aminophosphonic acids, acids Polyphosphorics, preferably linear polyphosphoric acids, and their salts. The salts may be, for example, salts of alkali metals, salts of alkaline earth metals, or salts of ammonium and substituted ammonium.
[0118] Examples of chelating agents (5) include: (i) Aminocarboxylic acids and their salts, such as the following compounds: ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS), diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA), ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and their salts such as EDTA 2Na and EDTA 4Na, ethylenediamine-N,N'-diglutaric acid (EDDG), glycinamide-N,N'-disuccinic acid (GADS), 2-hydroxypropylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid (HPDDS), ethylenediamine-N,N'-bis(ortho-hydroxyphenylacetic acid) (EDDHA), N,N'-bis(2-hydroxybenzyl)ethylenediamine-N,N'-diacetic acid (HBED), nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA), methylglycine diacetic acid (MGDA), N-2-hydroxyethyl-N,N-diacetic acid and glyceryl imino diacetic acid (such as described in documents EP-A-317 542 and EP-A-399 133), iminodiacetic acid-N-2-hydroxypropyl sulfonic acid and aspartic acid N-carboxymethyl N-2-hydroxypropyl-3-sulfonic acid (as described in EP-A-516 102), beta-alanine-N,N'-diacetic acid, aspartic-N,N'-Diacetic acid and aspartic acid-N-monoacetic acid (described in EP-A-509 382), iminodisuccinic acid (IDSA)-based chelating agents (as described in EP-A-509 382), ethanoldiglynic acid, phosphonobutane tricarboxylic acid, such as the compound marketed by Bayer under the reference Bayhibit AM, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (GLDA) such as Akzo Nobel's Dissolvine GL38 or 45S or GL-47-S; , (ii) hydroxycarboxylic acids and their salts, such as citric acid and its salts, for example, sodium citrate, in particular disodium citrate; (iii) chelating agents based on mono- or polyphosphonic acids and their salts, such as compounds with the following INCI names: diethylenetriaminepenta(methylenphosphonic) acid (DTPMP), ethane-1-hydroxy-1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (E1HTP), ethane-2-hydroxy-1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (E2HTP), ethane-1-hydroxy-1,1-diphosphonic acid (EHDP), ethane-1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (ETP), ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonic acid (EDTMP) and hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid (HEDP), their salts and derivatives, and (iv) chelating agents based on polyphosphoric acids and their salts, such as compounds with the following INCI names: sodium tripolyphosphate (STP), tetrasodium diphosphate, hexametaphosphoric acid, sodium metaphosphate, Phytic acid, their salts and derivatives, and mixtures thereof.
[0119] According to a preferred embodiment, the chelating agent(s) is / are chosen from aminocarboxylic acids and their salts, the acids hydroxycarboxylic acids and their salts, and more particularly among aminocarboxylic acids.
[0120] Preferably, the chelating agent(s) (5) is / are chosen from EDDS and its salts, EDTA and its salts, citric acid and its salts, N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)-L-glutamic acid and its salts, such as tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, metaphosphates (for example, sodium metaphosphate), and mixtures thereof, more preferably the chelating agent (5) is chosen from EDDS, its salts and mixtures thereof.
[0121] The quantity of the chelating agent(s) (5) other than (4) in the composition according to the present invention may be greater than or equal to 0.01% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 0.05% by weight, and more preferably greater than or equal to 0.1% by weight, better still greater than or equal to 0.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0122] Furthermore, the quantity of the chelating agent(s) (5) other than (4) in the composition according to the present invention may be less than or equal to 3% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 2% by weight, and more preferably less than or equal to 1% by weight, better still less than or equal to 0.4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0123] The quantity of the chelating agent(s) (5) other than (4) in the composition according to the present invention may be greater than or equal to 0.01% and less than or equal to 3% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 0.05% and less than or equal to 2% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 0.1% and less than or equal to 1% by weight, better still, greater than or equal to 0.2% and less than or equal to 0.4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Oily phase
[0124] Preferably the composition according to the invention comprises an oily phase.
[0125] The proportion of the oily phase of the emulsion can range for example from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 3% to 35% by weight, better from 5% to 30% by weight, and even better from 6% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0126] This quantity in the oil phase takes into account the content of the hydrophobic ingredients required according to the invention as defined above.
[0127] In addition to the ingredients required according to the invention and detailed above, the oily phase may include one or more additional fatty substances, in particular chosen from waxes, paste compounds and lipophilic polymers.
[0128] For the purposes of this invention, "wax" means a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25 °C), with a reversible solid / liquid change of state. Aqueous phase
[0129] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous phase. This aqueous phase comprises at least water, mixed or not with one or more water-soluble solvents.
[0130] The amount of aqueous phase may range from 50% to 99% by weight, preferably from 65% to 97% by weight, and more preferably from 70% to 95% relative to the total weight of the composition. The amount of water may represent all or part of the aqueous phase, and is generally at least 20% by weight, and preferably at least 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0131] According to a particular embodiment, the aqueous phase contains at least one polyol.
[0132] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention is in the form of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion, preferably oil-in-water. Additional asset(s)
[0133] The composition may also include at least one additional active ingredient.
[0134] Examples of active ingredients include moisturizing agents; depigmenting agents, desquamating agents, anti-aging agents, mattifying agents; healing agents; preservatives; UV filters and mixtures thereof.
[0135] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.01% to 20% by total weight of at least one active ingredient, preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight, and preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight of at least one active ingredient relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0136] The compositions of the invention may contain one or more of the adjuvants commonly used in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, lipophilic gelling and / or thickening agents; emollients; sequestrants; antioxidants; fillers; free radical scavengers; essential oils; perfumes; film-forming agents; colorants; pearlescent pigments, such as iron oxide and mixtures thereof. The total quantities of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the fields concerned. In particular, these quantities vary according to the desired purpose and may, for example, range from 0.01% to 20%, and preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
[0137] Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose the possible adjuvant(s) added to the composition according to the invention such that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the envisaged addition.
[0138] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention does not comprise di-t-butyl pentaerythrityl tetrahydroxycinnamate.
[0139] The composition used according to the invention can be presented in all the galenic forms normally used in the cosmetic field.
[0140] It can be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a gel, a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum or a paste.
[0141] According to a particular embodiment, the compositions according to the invention are not solid.
[0142] In particular, the compositions according to the invention are not solid and not in stick form.
[0143] According to a particular embodiment, the compositions according to the invention are presented in the form of a non-solid galenic, ranging from a serum texture to a creamy texture which can be stored in a jar.
[0144] Advantageously, the viscosity of a composition according to the invention ranges from 100 cP (centipoise), corresponding to 0.1 Pa.s (Pascal.second) to 20,040 cP, corresponding to 20.04 Pa.s measured at 25°C.
[0145] The viscosity of a composition according to the invention can be measured by any method known to a person skilled in the art, and in particular by applying a conventional method. For example, the measurement can be carried out at 25°C using a Contraves TV, a Rheomat RM180, or a Rheomat RM 100 PLUS, equipped, for example, with a spindle rotating at 200 rpm. A person skilled in the art can choose the spindle used to measure the viscosity, for example, from among the M1, M2, or M4 spindles, according to their general knowledge, in order to be able to carry out the measurement.
[0146] In particular, the composition according to the invention is intended for application to the skin. This may be the skin of the face and / or body, such as the face and / or neck and / or hands and / or décolleté.
[0147] The composition according to the invention may include all the constituents usually employed in the envisaged topical application and administration.
[0148] Advantageously, as already stated above, a composition according to the invention is not intended to be rinsed after application and as such is therefore different from a composition called a cleansing and / or makeup-removing composition.
[0149] The composition according to the invention also relates to the cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention for the care of keratinous materials, in particular for the care of the skin of the body and / or face.
[0150] The present invention also relates to a process for treating keratinous materials, particularly human materials such as skin, in which a composition according to the invention is applied to said keratinous materials.
[0151] More particularly, the treatment process, preferably a bleaching process, is a process for keratinous materials such as skin, in particular the skin of the body and / or face, said process is non-therapeutic, preferably for care, in which a composition according to the invention is applied to said keratinous materials.
[0152] The cosmetic use or process of the invention is implemented by topically administering a composition according to the invention.
[0153] Topical administration consists of the external application of the cosmetic composition to the skin using standard application techniques. Generally, this application can be carried out directly with the finger or using a woven or non-woven support onto which an appropriate amount of the composition has been previously deposited.
[0154] The composition according to the invention can be obtained in a conventional manner by a person skilled in the art.
[0155] The following examples will help to better understand the invention, but are not intended to be limiting. Raw materials are referred to by their chemical or INCI name. Examples Materials and methods
[0156] In the examples below, the compounds are identified by their INCI name: “CETEARYL ALCOHOL” is marketed under the name ALCOHOL CETOESTEARILICO 50 / 50 by the company INDUSTRIA QUIMICA DEL CENTRO; “SODIUM METHYL STEAROYL TAURATE” is marketed under the name NIKKOL SMT by the company NIKKO; "TRISODIUM ETHYLENE DIAMINE DISUCCINATE" is a product marketed under the name NATRLQUEST E30 by the company INNOSPEC ACTIVE CHEMICALS; "SODIUM THIOSULFATE" is a product marketed under the name SODIUM THIOSULFATE PENTAHYDRATE PURE by the company MERCK; “2-MERCAPTONICOTINOYL GLYCINE” is a product marketed under the name MEXORYL SED by the company NOVEAL. Compositions
[0157] In the following examples, all quantities are given as mass percentage of active material (AM) relative to the total weight of the composition (unless otherwise stated).
[0158] Compositions A and B were prepared from the ingredients whose contents are indicated in the table below (% active ingredient):
[0159] [Tables?] INCI NAME Phase A (according to the invention) B (not according to the invention) CETEARYL ALCOHOL A 4.5 4.5 SODIUM METHYL STEAROYL TA URATE A 0.5 0.5 PENTYLENE GLYCOL A 3.0 3.0 PRESERVATIVE A 0.8 0.8 WATER A QS 100 QS 100 TRISODIUM ETHYLENEDIAMINE DISUCCINATE A 0.25 0.25 ANTI-AGING ACTIVE A 5.0 5.0 OLEYL ERUCATE B 5.0 5.0 C15-19 ALKANE B 3.0 3.0 HYDROGENATED JOJOBA OIL B 2.0 2.0 ANTI-AGING ACTIVE B 0.15 0.15 OCTYLDODECANOL B 1.5 1.5 GLYCERIN C 13.0 13.0 GELDING AGENT D 2.0 2.0 THICKENER D 0.1 0.1 ANTI-AGING ACTIVE D 0.1 0.1 ANTI-AGING ACTIVE F 0.5 0.5 SODIUM THIOSULFATE G 0.3 - 2-MERCAPTONICOTINOYL GLYCI NE (Compound 20) G 0.5 0.5 SODIUM HYDROXIDE G QS pH=5.7 7.0.1 QS pH=5.7 7 0.1 ANTI-AGING ACTIVE H 3.0 3.0 OXIDIZED STARCH ACETATE H 1.0 1.0 Composition manufacturing process
[0160] a) In a roto stator, heat phase A under stirring (blades 60 rpm; turbine 0 rpm) to 70°C, then start the turbine (3500 rpm) for 10 minutes, b) Heat phase B in an annex to 72°C under magnetic stirring, c) Add phase B to phase A under stirring (blades: 60 rpm, turbine: 800 rpm) then stir the mixture for 10 minutes. d) Add phase C and then cool the mixture. e) When the mixture has reached 40°C, add phase D then at 30°C, add phase E then phase F (previously homogenized with a magnetic stir bar at room temperature). f) Add phase G and cool the composition to 25°C. Stability measurement protocol
[0161] The compositions are tested for their stability after 24 hours at 25°C and after two months of storage at 4°C, 25°C and 45°C. The properties evaluated are: - the pH of the composition, measured using a pH meter; - the viscosity of the composition, measured using a viscometer, for example Rheomat RM 100 PLUS from Lamy Rheology (equipped with a thermostatic bath), according to the CID-012-02 method, in particular for 10 min; - the microscopic aspect evaluated by observation of the composition under an optical microscope in polarized and unpolarized light between a slide and a coverslip, at a magnification of X10; - the color and smell of the composition.
[0162] The evaluation of the aforementioned properties is always carried out at 25°C, regardless of whether the compositions to be tested have been exposed to prolonged storage conditions and / or to a temperature other than 25°C.
[0163] A composition is considered to remain stable when its properties after two months of storage at 4°C, 25°C and 45°C remain close to those characterized at 24h at 25°C.
[0164] In particular, if the composition remains smooth and homogeneous, without macroscopic destabilization phenomena (appearance, color, odor) and without significant changes in pH or viscosity, it is considered to be stable.
[0165] A macroscopic destabilization phenomenon of the composition can materialize by the appearance of creaming, coalescence, sedimentation and / or flocculation, by the formation of a surface film and / or mottling. Photostability measurement protocol
[0166] The compositions are analyzed in order to evaluate the photostability of 2-MERCAPTONICOTINOYL GLYCINE (compound 20) when the compositions are exposed to UV radiation.
[0167] Each of compositions A and B was applied independently to an inert substrate. The coated substrates were exposed to UV radiation of 5 J / cm² for approximately 1 hour. The exposed compositions were then diluted in a solvent (organic solvent) and the solutions were analyzed by HPLC or UPLC chromatographic methods.
[0168] The quantity of compound 20 of formula (I) in each of the compositions was measured by HPLC-UV assay at t1 and t2, as indicated below: t1: After preparation of the composition; t2: After exposure of the compositions to UV radiation.
[0169] The details of the HPLC-UV tests are as follows:
[0170] Apparatus / reagents-: [Tables 8] Ultra-high-performance LC (UPLC) system, RP18 HPLC column, 1.7, 2.1 mm x 100 mm. Eluent A: 0.1% phosphoric acid. Eluent B: Methanol.
[0171] Conditions: [Tables9] UV detector 296 nm Column temperature 30°C Flow rate 0.4 mL / min Injection volume 2 pL Mobile phase Gradient A: 0.1% phosphoric acid in water B: Methanol
[0172] The quantity of compound 20 of formula (I) contained in compositions A and B before (t1) and after exposure to UV radiation was determined by HPLC-UV and the difference in quantity of compound 20 between t1 and t2 was calculated.
[0173] Results:
[0174] The quantities (%) of compound 20 of formula (I) remaining after exposure to UV radiation of compositions A and B are given in the table below: [Tables 10] Composition Quantity of compound remaining after exposure to UV radiation A (invention) 91% B (comparative) 45%
[0175] The results obtained show that compound 20 remains stable under exposure to UV radiation in composition A according to the invention, unlike composition B which does not include sodium thiosulfate.
[0176] It follows that composition A according to the invention allows better photo stability of compound 20 in this particular lamellar architecture.
[0177] Furthermore, the composition according to the invention exhibits good physicochemical stability. The macroscopic appearance of composition A according to the invention does not change after storage for 2 months at room temperature, 45°C and 4°C.
Claims
Demands
1. A composition, particularly a cosmetic one, comprising: (1) one or more of a compound selected from the compounds of formula (I) below, the tautomers of formula (1') below, their salts, their solvates, such as their hydrates, their optical isomers, their racemates, and mixtures thereof: H in which R1 denotes a radical selected from a) a hydrogen atom, and b) a linear saturated C1-C10 or C3-C10 branched alkyl group optionally substituted by one or more groups, which may be the same or different, selected from i) -O-R3, and ii) -S-R3, and R2 denotes a radical selected from a) a hydrogen atom, b) a linear saturated C1-C12 or C3-C12 branched or C3-C8 cyclic hydrocarbon group optionally substituted by one or more groups, which may be the same or different, selected from i) -O-R3, ii) -S-R3, iii) -C(O)-O-R3,and iv) a C5-C12 aryl group optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups and / or by one or more Ci-C8 alkoxy radicals, and c) a C5-C12 aryl group optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups and / or by one or more CrC8 alkoxy radicals in which R3 denotes a radical selected from a) a hydrogen atom, and b) a linear saturated Ci-CiO or branched C3-CiO alkyl group; (2) one or more saturated Ci6-C22 fatty alcohol(s); (3) one or more anionic surfactant(s) comprising at least one Ci6-C22 hydrocarbon chain; (4) one or more inorganic reducing agent(s) and (5) one or more chelating agent(s) other than (4).
2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein: Ri of formulas (I) and (!') represents a hydrogen atom; or RI of formulas (I) and (!') represents a linear (C1-C10) or branched (C3-C10) alkyl group, in particular a linear (C1-C6) or branched (C3-C6) alkyl group, such as methyl, ethyl, n-pentyl, n-nonyl, isobutyl, more preferably ethyl, in particular said alkyl group of Ri is not substituted.
3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein: R2 of formulas (I) and (!') represents a hydrogen atom; or R2 of formulas (I) and (!') represents a linear (Ci-CiO) or branched (C3-CiO) alkyl group, in particular a linear (Ci-C6) or branched (C3-C6) alkyl group, such as methyl, ethyl, n-pentyl, n-nonyl, isobutyl, more preferably methyl or ethyl; said alkyl group of R2 not being substituted.
4. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein: R2 of formulas (I) and (!') represents a linear alkyl group (in C1-C10) or a branched alkyl group (in C3-C10), in particular a linear alkyl group (in C1-C6) or a branched alkyl group (in C3-C6), such as methyl, ethyl, n-pentyl, n-nonyl, isobutyl, more preferably methyl or ethyl; said alkyl group being substituted by one or more groups selected from i), ii), iii) and iv) as defined above, preferably said alkyl group being substituted by one or two groups selected from i), ii) and iii), more preferably by one or two groups selected from i) and iii), better substituted by a group iii) such as the carboxy.
5. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein: R2 of formulas (I) and (!') represents a cycloalkyl group (in C3-C8), preferably a cycloalkyl group (in C5-C7) such as cyclohexyl; or R2 of formulas (I) and (!') represents a C5-Ci2 aryl group optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyls and / or by one or more CrC8 alkoxy radicals, preferably a phenyl group, in particular unsubstituted.
6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein: R3 of formulas (I) and (!') represents a hydrogen atom; or R3 of formulas (I) and (!') represents a linear saturated alkyl group in Ci-Cio or a branched alkyl group in C3-CiO; in particular a linear alkyl group (in Ci-C6) or a branched alkyl group (in C3-C6), preferably an alkyl group (in CrC4) such as a methyl group.
7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein: Ri of formulas (I) and (!') represents a radical selected from a) a hydrogen atom, and b) a linear saturated alkyl group in Ci
8. -C6 or in branched C3-C6 optionally substituted by one or more groups, which may be identical or different, chosen from i) -O-R3, and ii) -S-R3, preferably optionally substituted by one or more i) groups; R2 of formulas (I) and (!') represents a radical chosen from a) a hydrogen atom, and b) a linear C1-C10 saturated hydrocarbon group or a C3-C10 branched or C3-C8 cyclic group such as C5-C6, optionally substituted by one or more groups, which may be the same or different, chosen from i) -O-R3, ii) -S-R3, iii) -C(O)-O-R3, and iv) a phenyl group optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups and / or by one or more C1-C4 alkoxy radicals such as methoxy, preferably substituted by one or more groups chosen from i) and iii), preferably iii) such as carboxy;and R3 of formulas (I) and (!') represents a radical chosen from a) a hydrogen atom, and b) a linear saturated Ci-C6 or C3-C6 branched alkyl group, preferably, the compounds of formula (I) and the tautomer (!'), their solvated salts, such as hydrates, their optical isomers, their racemates, and their mixtures, have the following meanings: Ri of formulas (I) and (!') represents a radical chosen from: a) a hydrogen atom, and b) a linear saturated CrC4 or C3-C4 branched alkyl group optionally substituted by one or more groups, which may be identical or different, chosen from i) -OR3, more preferably unsubstituted;R2 of formulas (I) and (!') represents a radical chosen from a) a hydrogen atom, and b) a linear saturated hydrocarbon group in C1-C10 or branched in C3-C10 or cyclic in C3-C8 such as in C5-C6, optionally substituted by one or more groups, which may be identical or different, chosen from i) -O-R3, iii) -C(O)-O-R3, and iv) an aryl group in C5-C12 optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups and / or by one or more alkoxy radicals in C1-C4; and R3 of formulas (I) and (!') represents a radical chosen from: a) a hydrogen atom; b) a linear saturated alkyl group in C1-C4 or branched in C3-C4 such as methyl or ethyl. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein: compound (1) is selected from compounds 1 to 24 below, their tautomers, their salts, their solvates, such as their hydrates, their optical isomers, their racemates, and mixtures thereof, in particular compounds 1, 2, 4, 6, 7, 9, 11, 12, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20 or 21, more particularly 1, 9, 16, 18, 19, 20 or 21, preferably 18, 19, 20 or 21, and more preferably 20: N* Structure Chemical name 1 Ü N-ethyl-2-thfoxo-fJ-dihydropyridine-S-carboxamMe 2 N-meihyt-2-tMoxo-l,2-dtrsÿdropyndine-3-caÆoxamide ù ..... N-oc5yi-2-£bioxa-1 cartoxamide 4 ' Y. .- M-benzyi-24hsc«a-1,2--dthydm^ 3-catbaxamtde 5 .•■7 y, -X x / Sx «s—Y N-phényf-2-thtoxo-1,2-dihy <lropyndLTe-3-cartiaxamide 6' 1 fl N^çydohexy^-thioxo-t ,2-dihydccpyridïne-3-carboxamide 7 M-[2-j4-méthoxyphérsyi)éthyl]-2- thfoxo-1,2-dihydropyfÛine-3-carboxamide ! ' H § N-(2-méiSwJprapyO-2W^ dihydropyridine-3-caEto s N-penEy^2-îhioxi>i .2-dihyto 3-carüoxamMe 10 Nn pnyi-2-th i Oxo-1,2yj W 3-car boxsmtàe 11 / \ X,........y / / s / / y <P y---O / / \ / / N-(2-üydraxy êthy !)-2-thsoxo-1,2-dihydropyridine-3-carbqxamïde 12 C L N, N-dîéthyl 2-mer captonicot in amide 13 H l ?' V -y. N-é1hy^hH2-ftydroxyé1hyi}-2-tfâ^ 1,2-dihydropyridine-3-caft^ < / h2 style=";text-align:left;direction:ltr"> US n. =. i, r i …… NH2.3<i&ydi»x^> f opy{)-2-Wœco-1 ..2-rfthydwyr'^nfrycafY«-^ 15 ■■ ■*< N N-(1 ,.3-difey droxypropsn-2-yî 1,2-ditiÿdro)^ <lifte-3-€ad^^ 16 L Z •. / -As \ k4(2-îhsoxoy,2<1&ÿ ySJcadxüny^aianflnate d'éthyle 17 (1 :: ... 'J.. :> ? v- YV<' N-{(24hrs>: <Hl,2-dshydropyrsd^^ yS)caFbonyl]phény1 ^artate d'éîhyte 18 .-¾ Jl ...-^ .¾ .. Y; ■ ' c< > N-roéthyb?U[(2-thtex^^^ dhydfopyndin-3-yl;srbo^ d'ethyle 13 k4(2-thsoxo-l,2-d^^ yi)carbonyf|giyc&ate rfélhyfe 20 fYY'Yf' Nj(2-ths®:c-1,2-dshydfopyFsdîo-3-ySJcaFbonyljgiyçine 21 .1 X, LU rt: 22 dihydropyridine-3-carboxamkfe 23 YT ' dihydrq?yridine>3-carb&xaf^^ 24 %''U' 3-carbaxamkte
9.
10.
11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the amount of the thiopyridinone compound(s) (1) is greater than or equal to 0.01% and less than or equal to 10% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 0.05% and less than or equal to 5% by weight, better greater than or equal to 0.1% and less than or equal to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one saturated fatty alcohol (2) selected from: alcohols comprising a linear alkyl radical, said chain comprising between 16 and 22 carbon atoms, preferably between 16 and 18 carbon atoms and a hydroxyl function; more preferably the saturated fatty alcohol(s) (2) present in is / are solid at room temperature (20 °C + / - 5 °C) and advantageously having a -OH function at the end of the chain; more preferably selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenic alcohol and mixtures thereof, and preferably from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof such as cetylstearyl alcohol. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the amount of the fatty alcohol(s) in Ci6-C22(2) is greater than or equal to 1% and less than or equal to 10% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 2% and less than or equal to 8% by weight, and better greater than or equal to 2.5% and less than or equal to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the anionic surfactant (3) is selected from anionic surfactants comprising at least one linear, saturated or unsaturated Ci6-C22 hydrocarbon chain, preferably a linear Ci6-Ci8 chain, particularly anionic surfactants comprising a single linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain; preferably selected from surfactants further comprising at least one sulfonate function, in particular as defined below in formula (III), acyl glutamates, and mixtures thereof; RC(O)-Y-(CH2)n-SO3M (III) Formula (III) wherein: -R represents a saturated, linear or branched Ci6-C22 alkyl group; -Y represents -O- or -N(R7)- with R7 representing a linear or branched Ci-C3 alkyl group; - M is chosen from the group formed by a hydrogen atom, alkali or alkaline earth metal cations, ammonium salts and organic amines;- n is an integer from 1 to 3; and their mixtures; preferably, the anionic surfactant (3) is selected from: - acylisethionates, the linear or branched acyl group comprising 16 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms; - N-acyl-N-alkyltaurates, the linear or branched acyl group comprising 16 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms, and the linear, branched alkyl group comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or cyclic group comprising 3 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably the alkyl group being a methyl; and - their mixtures; in particular in the form of salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals, ammonium, or amino alcohols; even more preferably in which the anionic surfactant (3) is chosen from among the surfactants comprising at least one; sulfonate function and their mixtures, preferably the anionic surfactant (3) is N-stearoyl-N-methyltaurate of alkaline salt in particular of sodium.
13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the amount of the surfactant(s) (3) is greater than or equal to 0.01% and less than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 0.05% and less than or equal to 2% by weight, and more preferably greater than or equal to 0.1% and less than or equal to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the reducing agent (4) is selected from the inorganic reducing agent(s), more preferably selected from alkali metal bisulfite, alkali metal metabisulfite, alkali metal sulfite, alkali metal thiosulfate, alkali metal sulfate, alkali metal tetrathionate, better selected from sodium bisulfate, sodium metabisulfite, sodium sulfite, sodium thiosulfate, sodium sulfate, potassium metabisulfite, potassium sulfite, potassium thiosulfate, potassium sulfate, potassium tetrathionate or mixtures thereof, better still selected from sodium bisulfite, sodium metabisulfite, sodium sulfite, sodium thiosulfate or sodium sulfate or mixtures thereof, such that the reducing agent (4) is sodium thiosulfate.
15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the amount of reducing agent (4) is greater than or equal to 0.05% and less than or equal to 2% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 0.1% and less than or equal to 1% by weight, and more preferably greater than or equal to 0.3% and less than or equal to 0.7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the chelating agent(s) (5) other than (4) is / are selected from organic chelating agent(s), preferably selected from EDDS and its salts, EDTA and its salts, citric acid and its salts, N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)-L-glutamic acid and its salts, such as tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, metaphosphates (e.g., sodium metaphosphate), and mixtures thereof, more preferably the chelating agent (5) other than (4) is selected from EDDS, its salts and mixtures thereof.
17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the amount of the chelating agent(s) (5) other than (4) in the composition according to the present invention may be greater than or equal to 0.01% and less than or equal to 3% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 0.05% and less than or equal to 2% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 0.1% and less than or equal to 1% by weight, better still, greater than or equal to 0.2% and less than or equal to 0.4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
18. A process for treating keratinous materials, preferably a bleaching process, in particular for facial and / or body skin, comprising applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 17.
19. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 17, for the treatment of keratinous materials, in particular for the care of body and / or face skin.
Citation Information
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