Cosmetic composition comprising specific anionic, amphoteric and non-ionic surfactants, and a cationic galactomannan

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, particularly for hair care, specifically for cleansing and / or conditioning hair, free of silicone, and comprising sulfated anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, nonionic alkyl(poly)glycosides, and cationic galactomannans. The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process for keratinous materials, particularly for washing and / or conditioning hair, using said cosmetic composition.

Description

Title of the invention: Cosmetic composition comprising specific anionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants, and a cationic galactomannan

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, in particular for hair, comprising a particular combination of surfactants, in particular anionic sulfated, amphoteric and particular non-ionic, and one or more particular cationic polymers; as well as a cosmetic treatment process, in particular for hair, implementing it.

[0002] Hair can be damaged and weakened by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light and weather, and / or by mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, coloring, bleaching, perming and / or straightening.

[0003] To remedy these drawbacks, it is now common to use hair compositions that condition the hair following these treatments in order to give it, in particular, shine, softness, suppleness, lightness, as well as detangling properties.

[0004] These hair care compositions may include both cleansing and conditioning compositions, such as conditioning shampoos. These compositions generally have good cleansing power, but their cosmetic properties can be further improved; conditioning agents, such as silicones, are then generally included in these shampoos. However, these hair care compositions do not necessarily provide complete satisfaction and can still be improved.

[0005] In particular, we are looking for cleansing compositions that, on the one hand, generate an abundant and good quality foam, and make the hair clean and shiny, and on the other hand, give the hair improved cosmetic properties, in particular in terms of detangling, softness, smoothness to the touch and visually, suppleness, coating of the fiber and shine.

[0006] We are particularly looking for compositions for washing or cleaning hair, which ultimately give the hair a clean and natural feel, without weighing it down and / or coating it too much; we are therefore looking for compositions which allow the hair to feel light and clean.

[0007] This objective is achieved thanks to the composition according to the invention which comprises a particular association of specific surfactants and cationic polymer.

[0008] Furthermore, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, that is, products whose design and development take environmental issues into account, is becoming a major concern in order to help address global challenges. It is therefore essential to offer more sustainable compositions and / or preparation processes and / or ingredients that can thus meet these environmental challenges.

[0009] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or with a good naturalness index and / or of natural origin and more particularly of plant origin, while reducing the use of petrochemical compounds.

[0010] The present invention therefore relates to a cosmetic composition, preferably for hair, free of silicone, comprising:

[0011] - one or more sulfated anionic surfactants,

[0012] - one or more amphoteric surfactants,

[0013] - one or more non-ionic surfactants of the alkyl(poly)glycoside type, and

[0014] - one or more cationic galactomannans,

[0015] the weight ratio between, on the one hand, the total quantity of amphoteric surfactant(s) and on the other hand the total quantity of alkyl(poly)glycoside(s) being greater than or equal to 1.

[0016] The composition according to the invention has satisfactory foaming power. It allows the production of abundant foam, which spreads easily on keratin fibers and is easily rinsed away.

[0017] It provides hair with good cosmetic properties, particularly conditioning properties, such as softness, hydration, nutrition, repair, shine and manageability, as well as a good level of detangling.

[0018] It also allows for a 'long-lasting cleanliness' effect, meaning that the hair has a natural, non-greasy feel, a 'clean' and unloaded feeling of deposit, which can last between two shampoos.

[0019] The composition may advantageously be transparent, but it may also be pearlescent, if necessary.

[0020] The composition according to the invention is silicone-free, that is to say it comprises less than 0.1% by weight of silicone(s), preferably less than 0.05% by weight, even better does not comprise any at all (0%).

[0021] The term “silicone” means any compound comprising in its structure one or more Si-O-Si bonds.

[0022] In particular, "silicone" means any organosilicon polymer or oligomer with a linear or cyclic, branched or cross-linked structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and / or polycondensation of suitably functionalized, and consisting essentially of a repetition of main motifs in which silicon atoms are linked together by oxygen atoms (siloxane bond -Si-O-Si-), with hydrocarbon radicals possibly substituted, being directly linked via a carbon atom to said silicon atoms; and more particularly dialkylsiloxane polymers, amino silicones, dimethiconols.

[0023] In the present description, the expression "at least one" is equivalent to the expression "one or more" and may be substituted for it; the expression "between" is equivalent to the expression "ranging from" and may be substituted for it, which implies that the bounds are included. 1 / Anionic sulfate surfactants

[0024] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more anionic sulfate (or sulfated) surfactants.

[0025] The term "anionic surfactant" means a surfactant comprising only anionic groups as ionic or ionizable groups.

[0026] In the present description, an entity is qualified as "anionic" when it has at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized into a negatively charged entity, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (medium, pH for example) and not comprising a cationic charge.

[0027] In a manner known per se, anionic surfactants may comprise sulfate, sulfonate and / or carboxylic (or carboxylate) groups (or functions), alone or in mixture.

[0028] For the purposes of the present invention, anionic sulfate surfactant is understood to be an anionic surfactant comprising at least one sulfate function (-OSO3H or -OSO3), but not comprising a carboxylate function, nor a sulfonate function.

[0029] Anionic sulfate surfactants can thus be chosen from, alone or in mixtures, alkylsulfates, alkylethersulfates, alkylamidoethersulfates, alkylarylpolyethersulfates, monoglyceride-sulfates; as well as the salts of these compounds; the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 24, even better from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably designating a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds being able to be (poly)oxyalkylated, in particular (poly)oxyethylated and then comprising preferably from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide motifs, better from 1 to 10 ethylene oxide motifs.

[0030] When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, said salt may be selected from alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium salts, the salts of alkaline earth metals such as magnesium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohols. Examples of amino alcohol salts include mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts, mono-, di- or tri-isopropanolaminc salts, 2-amino 2-methyl 1-propanol salts, 2-amino 2-methyl 1,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.

[0031] Salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals are preferably used, and in particular salts of sodium or magnesium.

[0032] Preferably, the anionic sulfate surfactants are selected from, alone or in mixtures:

[0033] - alkyl sulfates, especially in C6-C30, better in C8-C24, even better in C10- C20, or even C10-C16, as well as their salts;

[0034] - alkyl ether sulfates, in C6-C30, better in C8-C24, even better in C10-C20, or even in C10-C16, preferably comprising 1 to 20 ethylene oxide motifs; as well as their salts;

[0035] said salts being in particular chosen from among the salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals, ammonium, or amino alcohol.

[0036] Preferably, the anionic sulfate surfactant(s) do not include alkylene oxide groups, in particular no ethylene oxide group, nor propylene oxide.

[0037] They are therefore advantageously chosen from among, alone or in mixture, alkyl sulfates, especially in C6-C30, better in C8-C24, even better in C10-C20, or even in C10-C16, as well as their salts, especially chosen from among the salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals, of ammonium, or of amino alcohol; even better from the salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals of alkyl sulfates, especially in C6-C30, better in C8-C24, even better in C10-C20, or even in C10-C16; advantageously in C10-C20, or even in C10-C16; and especially the salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals of lauryl sulfate, such as sodium lauryl sulfate.

[0038] Advantageously, the total content of sulfate anionic surfactants in the composition according to the invention can range from 1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 2 to 18% by weight, preferably from 3 to 15% by weight, better from 4 to 12% by weight, even better from 5 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0039] Advantageously, the total content of anionic sulfate surfactants selected from, alone or in mixture, alkyl sulfates in particular in C6-C30, better in C8-C24, even better in C10-C20, or even in C10-C16, as well as their salts, in the composition according to the invention can range from 1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 2 to 18% by weight, preferably from 3 to 15% by weight, better from 4 to 12% by weight, even better from 5 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0040] Advantageously, the total content of anionic surfactants (sulfated and non-sulfated when present) in the composition according to the invention can range from 1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 2 to 18% by weight, preferably from 3 to 15% by weight, better from 4 to 12% by weight, even better from 5 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Amphoteric surfactants

[0041] The composition according to the invention also comprises one or more amphoteric surfactants; zwitterionic surfactants are included in the definition of amphoteric surfactants.

[0042] The amphoteric surfactant(s) may in particular be secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, possibly quaternized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.

[0043] Among the usable secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, possibly quaternized, as defined above, the following compounds with respective formulas (1) to (3) may be cited:

[0044] Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N W(Rc)-CH2C00, M+, X (1)

[0045] in which:

[0046] - Ra represents an alkyl or alkenyl group in C10 to C30 derived from an acid RaCOOH, preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;

[0047] - Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group; and

[0048] - Rc represents a carboxymethyl group;

[0049] - M+ represents a cationic counter ion from an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, such that sodium, an ammonium ion, or an ion derived from an organic amine, and

[0050] - X represents an organic or inorganic anionic counter-ion, such as the one chosen among the halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)- or alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate; or else M+ and X are absent;

[0051] Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N(B)(B') (2)

[0052] in which:

[0053] - B represents the group -CH2CH2OX';

[0054] - B' represents the group -(CH2)ZY', with z = 1 or 2;

[0055] - X' represents the group -CH2COOH, -CH2-COOZ', -CH2CH2COOH, CH2CH2- COOZ', or a hydrogen atom;

[0056] - Y' represents the group -COOH, -COOZ', -CH2CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2 CH(OH)SO3-Z' ;

[0057] - Z' represents a cationic counter ion from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as that sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;

[0058] - Ra represents an alkyl or alkenyl group in C10 to C30 of an acid Ra-COOH of preferably present in coconut oil or hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl group, especially in Cp and its iso form, an unsaturated Cp group.

[0059] These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid.

[0060] As an example, we can cite cocoamphodiacetate marketed by the company RHODIA under the trade name MIRANOL® C2M concentrate.

[0061] Ra-NHCH(Y”)-(CH2)nCONH(CH2)nN(Rd)(Re) (3)

[0062] in which:

[0063] - Y” represents the group -COOH, -COOZ”, -CH2-CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2 CH(OH)SO3-Z”;

[0064] - Rd and Re, independently of each other, represent an alkyl radical or hydroxyalkyl in C1 to C4;

[0065] - Z” represents a cationic counter ion derived from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion, or an ion derived from an organic amine;

[0066] - Ra represents an alkyl or alkenyl group in the C10 to C30 position of an acid Ra—COOH of preferably present in coconut oil or hydrolyzed linseed oil;

[0067] - n and n', independently of each other, denotes an integer from 1 to 3.

[0068] Among the compounds of formula (3) we can mention the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and marketed by the company CHIMEX under the name CHIMEXANE HB.

[0069] The amphoteric surfactant(s) may also be chosen from, alone or in mixture, alkyl(C8-C20)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)sulfobetaines, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines and alkyl(C8-C20)-amidoalkyl(C6-C8)sulfobetaines.

[0070] Preferably, the amphoteric surfactant(s) are chosen from, alone or in mixture, alkyl(C8-C20)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines, compounds of formula (1) and compounds of formula (2) as defined above.

[0071] Preferably the amphoteric surfactant(s) are chosen from, alone or in mixture, alkyl(C8-C2o)betaines such as cocobetaine, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof; even better from, alone or in mixture, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine.

[0072] Preferably, the total content of the amphoteric surfactant(s) in the composition according to the invention can range from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 8% by weight, better from 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0073] Preferably, the total content of the amphoteric surfactant(s) selected from, alone or in mixture, alkyl(C8-C20)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines, compounds of formula (1) and compounds of formula (2), in the composition according to the invention, can range from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 8% by weight, better from 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0074] Better still, the total content of the amphoteric surfactant(s) chosen from alkyl(C8-C20)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines and mixtures thereof, in the composition according to the invention, can range from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 8% by weight, better from 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0075] Better still, the total content of the amphoteric surfactant(s) selected from among the alkyl(C8-C2o)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines, in the composition according to the invention, can range from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 8% by weight, better from 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. cationic galactomannans

[0076] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more cationic galactomannans (also called cationic galactomannan gums).

[0077] Cationic galactomannan gums are cationic polymers; this is understood, in the context of the present invention, as a polymer comprising cationic groups and / or groups ionizable into cationic groups; and not comprising anionic group and / or a group ionizable into anionic group.

[0078] Said cationic polymers may be associative or non-associative; a mixture of such polymers may also be used. Preferably, the cationic galactomannan gums are non-associative.

[0079] Said polymers are not siliconed (do not include a Si-O motif).

[0080] Advantageously, cationic galactomannans are chosen from among the gums of cationic guar, preferably comprising trialkylammonium cationic groups, especially alkyl in Cl-4, for example methyl.

[0081] One can notably cite guar gums modified by a salt (for example a chloride) of 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium.

[0082] Examples include, alone or in combination:

[0083] - hydroxypropyl derivatives of quaternary ammonium derivatives of hydroxypropyl guar, in particular halide salts, especially chlorides; in particular those with the INCI name: HYDROXYPROPYL GUAR HYDROXYPROPYL TRIMONIUM CHLORIDE

[0084] - quaternary ammonium derivatives of hydroxypropylguar (implied non- hydroxypropyl compounds), in particular halide salts, especially chlorides; in particular trimethylammonium (or trimonium) derivatives of hydroxypropylguar, in particular their halide salts, especially chlorides; in particular those with the INCI name: GUAR HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE. Examples of commercial products include Jaguar C-13S, Jaguar C-14S, and Jaguar C-17 from the Solvay company.

[0085] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the cationic galactomannan(s) in a total content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better from 0.02 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.05 to 2% by weight, or even from 0.1 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0086] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the cationic galactomannan(s) selected from the cationic guars, in a total content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better from 0.02 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.05 to 2% by weight, or even from 0.1 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0087] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the cationic galactomannan(s) selected from quaternary ammonium derivatives of hydroxypropylguar, hydroxypropyl derivatives of quaternary ammonium derivatives of hydroxypropylguar, and mixtures thereof, in particular their halide salts, in a total content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better from 0.02 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.05 to 2% by weight, or even from 0.1 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Non-ionic surfactants of the APG type

[0088] The cosmetic composition according to the invention also includes one or more non-ionic surfactants of the alkyl(poly)glycoside type, which may advantageously be chosen from, alone or in mixture, alkyl(C8-C3o)(poly)glycosides, alkenyl(C8-C3o)(poly)glycosides, alkyl (C8-C30)(poly)glycosides esters, these compounds being optionally oxyalkylated.

[0089] The oxyalkylated motifs are more particularly oxyethylated, oxypropylated, or combination thereof, preferably oxyethylated. The number of moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene preferably ranges from 1 to 250, plus particularly from 2 to 100; better from 2 to 50. Advantageously, the non-ionic surfactants according to the invention do not comprise oxypropylene motifs. When they include it, preferably they include a number of moles of ethylene oxide ranging from 1 to 250, especially from 2 to 100, better from 2 to 50.

[0090] Preferably, this or these surfactants comprise from 1 to 15 glucose motifs.

[0091] In particular, the composition according to the invention may comprise one or more non-ionic alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactants of the formula RlO-(R2O)t-(G)v

[0092] in which:

[0093] - RI represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising 6 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical comprises 6 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms; preferably a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical comprising 8 to 18 carbon atoms;

[0094] - R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms,

[0095] - G represents a sugar motif comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms; preferably the glucose, fructose or galactose; even better, glucose;

[0096] -1 denotes a value from 0 to 10, preferably from 0 to 4, better still from 0 to 3, even better 0;

[0097] - v denotes a value from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4; the average degree of polymerization (v) being more particularly between 1 and 2.

[0098] The glycosidic bonds between the sugar motifs are generally of type 1-6 or 1-4, preferably of type 1-4.

[0099] Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant is an alkyl(poly)glucoside surfactant.

[0100] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises, alone or in mixture, one or more alkyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucosides, optionally oxyalkylated, preferably comprising from 1 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide, and comprising 1 to 15 glucose motifs.

[0101] The non-ionic surfactant(s) of the alkyl(poly)glycoside type may in particular be chosen from, alone or in mixture, the following INCI-named compounds: capryl glucoside, caprylyl glucoside, decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, coco glucoside.

[0102] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the non-ionic surfactant(s) of the alkyl(poly)glycosides type, in a total content of 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.08 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0103] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the non-ionic surfactant(s) selected from alkyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucosides, possibly oxyalkylated, preferably comprising 1 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide, and comprising 1 to 15 glucose motifs, in a total content of 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.08 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0104] The cosmetic composition according to the invention may optionally include one or more additional non-ionic surfactants, different from the alkyl(poly)glycosides above.

[0105] The following compounds, alone or in mixtures, may be cited in particular:

[0106] - oxyalkylated alkyl(C8-C24)phenols;

[0107] - C8-C40 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylated or glycerol-based, preferably comprising one or two C8-C30 fatty chains;

[0108] - C8-C30 fatty acid amides, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylated;

[0109] - C8-C30 acid esters, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of polyethylene glycols;

[0110] - C8-C30 acid esters, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and sorbitol esters preferably oxygenated;

[0111] - C8-C30 acid esters, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of (poly)glycerol;

[0112] - C8-C30 fatty acid and sucrose esters,

[0113] - oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or unsaturated;

[0114] - ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide condensates.

[0115] The oxyalkylated motifs are more particularly oxyethylated, oxypropylated, or a combination thereof, preferably oxyethylated. The number of moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene preferably ranges from 1 to 250, more particularly from 2 to 100; better from 2 to 50; the number of moles of glycerol ranges in particular from 1 to 50, better from 1 to 10. Advantageously, the nonionic surfactants according to the invention do not comprise oxypropylated motifs. Preferably, they comprise a number of moles of ethylene oxide ranging from 1 to 250, particularly from 2 to 100, better from 2 to 50.

[0116] As an example of non-ionic glycerolated surfactants, mono- or polyglycerolated C8-C40 alcohols may be used, comprising from 1 to 50 moles of glycerol, preferably from 1 to 10 moles of glycerol. Examples include lauryl alcohol with 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-4 LAURYL ETHER), lauryl alcohol with 1.5 moles of glycerol, oleyl alcohol with 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-4 OLEYL ETHER), oleyl alcohol with 2 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-2 OLEYL ETHER), cetearyl alcohol with 2 moles of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol with 6 moles of glycerol, and oleocetyl alcohol with 6 moles. of glycerol, and octadecanol with 6 moles of glycerol. Among glycerol alcohols, C8 alcohol with 1 mole of glycerol, C12 alcohol with 1 mole of glycerol, and C12 alcohol with 1.5 moles of glycerol are particularly preferred.

[0117] As an example of C8-C30 acid esters, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and (poly)glycerol, C8-C30 acid esters, preferably C10-C24 esters, mono- or polyglycerol esters, comprising from 1 to 50 moles of glycerol, preferably from 1 to 10 moles of glycerol, are preferred.

[0118] Better still, the additional non-ionic surfactant(s) can be chosen from, alone or in mixture:

[0119] - C8 to C40 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxygenated comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 moles of ethylene oxide and comprising one or two fatty chains, in particular at least one alkyl chain in C8-C20, in particular in C10-C18;

[0120] - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of (poly)glycerol, including monoglyceryl oleate and / or polyglyceryl caprates, in particular PG-4 caprate;

[0121] - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of sorbitol, preferably oxygenated.

[0122] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a total amount of non-ionic surfactant(s) (including alkyl(poly)glycosides and any additional non-ionic surfactants) ranging from 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0123] In the composition according to the invention, the weight ratio between, on the one hand, the total quantity of amphoteric surfactant(s) and, on the other hand, the total quantity of alkyl(poly)glycoside(s) is greater than or equal to 1, advantageously strictly greater than 1, better greater than or equal to 5, even better greater than or equal to 8.

[0124] Preferably, this weight ratio is between 1 and 20, in particular between 5 and 17, or even between 8 and 15. Other ingredients

[0125] The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises water or a mixture of water and one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents selected from C1-C4 alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol; and mixtures thereof.

[0126] The composition according to the invention may comprise water, preferably in a total content of between 65 and 98% by weight, preferably between 70 and 95% by weight. weight, preferably between 75 and 92% by weight, even better between 80 and 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0127] The pH of the composition according to the invention generally varies from 3 to 7, preferably from 3.5 to 6, preferably from 4 to 5.5.

[0128] The composition may advantageously comprise one or more polyols.

[0129] For the purposes of this invention, "polyol" means an organic compound consisting of a hydrocarbon chain optionally interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms and bearing at least two free hydroxyl groups (-OH) preferably on different carbon atoms, this compound being able to be cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

[0130] More particularly, the polyol(s) comprise from 2 to 30 hydroxy groups, preferably from 2 to 10 hydroxy groups, preferably from 2 to 3 hydroxy groups. Preferably, they comprise from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, in particular from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0131] Advantageously, the polyol(s) are selected from diglycerin, glycerin, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentane-1,2-diol, octane-1,2-diol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycols, sorbitol, sugars such as glucose and mixtures thereof; preferably from glycerin, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentane-1,2-diol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethylene glycol, sorbitol and mixtures thereof; and even better from glycerin, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, and mixtures thereof.

[0132] Preferably, the polyol(s) may be present in the composition in a total content of 0.1 to 10% by weight, better of 0.5 to 8% by weight, preferably of 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0133] The composition according to the invention may optionally include one or more compounds which allow its viscosity to be adjusted, among which we may mention, alone or in mixture, thickeners, gelling agents, in particular thickening polymers and gelling polymers; fluidizers; polycarboxylic acid esters, in particular citric acid, such as triethyl citrate; inorganic salts, in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metal, preferably in halide form, better in chloride form, such as sodium chloride.

[0134] The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one or more common cosmetic ingredients, in particular selected from among sunscreens; moisturizing agents; anti-dandruff agents; antioxidants; chelating agents; reducing agents; oxidizing bases, couplers, oxidizing agents, direct colorants; straightening agents; pearlescent and opacifying agents; micas, Mother-of-pearl, glitter; plasticizing or coalescing agents; hydroxy acids; pigments; fillers; perfumes; alkalizing or acidifying agents. Those skilled in the art shall take care to choose the ingredients used in the composition, as well as their quantities, so as not to impair the properties of the compositions of the present invention.

[0135] The cosmetic composition according to the invention finds in particular a particularly interesting application in the field of hair care, in particular for the cleansing and / or conditioning of hair.

[0136] Hair compositions are preferably shampoos or conditioners; advantageously, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a shampoo, in particular a conditioner, capable of being rinsed.

[0137] The cosmetic composition may or may not be rinsed after being applied to keratinous materials, particularly hair. Rinsing with water, for example, may be optional after any application time. Preferably, it is rinsed after any application time.

[0138] The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process, in particular for cleaning and / or conditioning keratinous materials, in particular keratinous fibers, especially hair, comprising a step of applying to said keratinous materials, a cosmetic composition according to the invention.

[0139] Preferably, a step of rinsing the keratinous materials, for example with water, is implemented after the step of applying the composition according to the invention.

[0140] A drying step for the keratin materials may be provided in the process according to the invention, in particular after the rinsing step, notably using a heating means such as a hair dryer.

[0141] Preferably, it is a hair treatment process, in particular washing and / or conditioning hair.

[0142] Preferably, the cosmetic treatment process is particularly intended for natural or slightly sensitized hair.

[0143] The present invention is illustrated in more detail in the following examples, in which the quantities are expressed as % by weight of active material (% MA) unless otherwise stated. Example 1

[0144] Compositions A according to the invention and comparative compositions B and C below are prepared, comprising (% by weight of MA):

[0145] [Tables 1] Comparative Invention Comparative Sodium lauryl sulfate 6.7 6.7 6.7 Cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB) 2.66 1.2 0.15 Cocoglucoside (APG) 0.26 1.7 0.26 Cationic guar 0.25 0.25 0.25 NaCl 1 0.7 0.5 Triethyl citrate 0.3 0.3 0.3 Preservatives, chelating agents Qs Qs Qs Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 CAPB / APG ratio 10.2 0.7 0.6

[0146] Hair cleansing compositions are obtained, which can be applied to wet hair to wash it, then rinsed. Composition A is transparent.

[0147] (i) Cleanliness assessment

[0148] Compositions A, B and C above are tested on strands of hair previously washed with 1 g / strand of standard shampoo (DOP Chamomile) and dried (strands of 2.7 g, sensitivity SA20) in the manner described below.

[0149] 37 mg of artificial sebum is applied to the length of each strand and spread evenly along the entire length. It is left to stand for 1 hour at 25 °C.

[0150] The wick is then washed using 1 g of the composition to be tested (1 g per wick), in the following manner:

[0151] - the wick is wetted by passing it under water for 5 seconds and a part of the water by passing the wick once between 2 fingers;

[0152] - 1 g of the composition to be tested is applied along the strand and then kneaded during 15 seconds from root to tip without making a knot, making 6 passes;

[0153] - rinse with water for 10 seconds, passing the strand between your fingers 15 times and Some of the water is removed by passing the wick twice between two fingers.

[0154] The sebum application / washing / rinsing steps are repeated 4 more times (which corresponds to a total of 5 sebum application / washing / rinsing cycles), waiting 5 minutes between each cycle.

[0155] After the 5th cycle, the wicks are dried in an oven.

[0156] The strands thus treated are then evaluated blindly by a panel of 5 experts, who give them a score ranging from 0 to 5 (in increments of 0.5).

[0157] A score of 0 is assigned to a strand that is visually not at all clean, with a very high presence of sebum.

[0158] A score of 5 is awarded to a visually extremely clean strand, with no presence of sebum.

[0159] The following results are obtained:

[0160] [Tables2] A (invention) B (comparative) C (comparative) Evaluator 1 3.5 4 2 Evaluator 2 4.5 3 3.5 Evaluator 3 3 4 2 Evaluator 4 4 3 3 Evaluator 5 4 2.5 3 Average 3.8 3.3 2.7

[0161] It is observed that the strand washed with composition A according to the invention leads to visually cleaner hair, better rid of sebum, compared to comparative compositions B and C.

[0162] (ii) Sensory evaluation

[0163] The compositions A, B and C above are applied to previously washed and dried hair strands (2.7 g strands, SA20 sensitivity), at a rate of 1.5 g of composition per 2.7 g strand. The strands are then rinsed and dried.

[0164] A panel of 2 experts assesses, blindly, the level of coating (the presence of a deposit on the hair, more or less thick) of each of the strands, on a wet strand before drying, then on a dry strand.

[0165] Each expert gives a score on a scale of 0 to 5, in increments of 0.5. A score of 0 corresponds to very light coating and a score of 5 to very heavy coating. The lighter the coating, the cleaner and more natural the feel.

[0166] The evaluation is carried out as follows: the expert takes the lock between his fingers and slides his fingers along the hair from root to tip.

[0167] The following results are obtained:

[0168] [Tables3] ABC Coating - wet hair 0 0.5 1 Coating - dry hair 0 1 0.5

[0169] It is observed that composition A according to the invention provides a much lower level of coating than the comparative compositions, whether on hair wet or dry hair, resulting in hair that feels cleaner, more natural, more supple, less weighed down. Example 2

[0170] The following compositions according to the invention are prepared (% by weight MA):

[0171] [Tables4] Sodium lauryl sulfate 6.7 6.7 Cocamidopropyl betaine 2.7 2.7 Cocobetaine - 0.1 Cocoglucoside 0.3 0.3 Cationic guar 0.2 0.3 Glycol distearate - 0.5 Glycerin 3.5 - Carbomer - 0.3 NaCl 1 1 Triethyl citrate 0.4 0.3 Preservatives Qs Qs Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100

[0172] Hair cleansing compositions are obtained, which can be applied to wet hair to wash it, then rinsed.

[0173] Composition D is transparent and composition E is pearlescent.

[0174] The hair has a clean feel, is particularly unbound, soft and hydrated. It sends a signal of cleanliness, in particular of lasting cleanliness (long-lasting).

Claims

Demands

1. Cosmetic composition, preferably for hair, free from silicone, comprising: - one or more sulfated anionic surfactants, - one or more amphoteric surfactants, - one or more non-ionic surfactants of the alkyl(poly)glycoside type, and - one or more cationic galactomannans, the weight ratio between, on the one hand, the total quantity of amphoteric surfactant(s) and on the other hand, the total quantity of alkyl(poly) glycoside(s) being greater than or equal to 1.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the anionic sulfate surfactant(s) are selected from, alone or in mixture: - alkyl sulfates, in particular C6-C30, preferably C8-C24, even better C10-C20, or even C10-C16, and their salts; - alkyl ether sulfates, in C6-C30, preferably C8-C24, even better C10-C20, or even C10-C16, preferably comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units; and their salts; said salts being selected in particular from alkali or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium salts, or amino alcohol salts; advantageously among, alone or in mixture, alkylsulfates especially in C6-C30, better in C8-C24, even better in C10-C20, or even in C10-C16, as well as their salts, especially chosen from among the salts of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, ammonium, or amino alcohol;even better among the alkali or alkaline earth metal salts of alkyl sulfates, especially in C6-C30, better in C8-C24, even better in C10-C20, or even in C10-C16; advantageously in C10-C20, or even in C10-C16; and especially the alkali or alkaline earth metal salts of lauryl sulfate, such as sodium lauryl sulfate.

3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the total content of sulfate anionic surfactants ranges from 1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 2 to 18% by weight, preferably from 3 to 15% by weight, better from 4 to 12% by weight, even better from 5 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the amphoteric surfactant(s) are selected from: (i) the compounds of the following respective formulas (1) to (3): Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N+(Rb)(Rc)-CH2COO , M+ , X (1) wherein: - Ra represents an alkyl or alkenyl group in C10 to C30 derived from an acid RaCOOH, preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group; - Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group; and - Rc represents a carboxymethyl group; - M+ represents a cationic counterion from an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion from an organic amine, and - X represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as one chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)- or alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate; or else M+ and X are absent;Ra -CONHCH2CH2-N(B)(B') (2) in which: - B represents the group -CH2CH2OX'; - B' represents the group -(CH2)ZY', with z = 1 or 2; - X' represents the group -CH2COOH, -CH2-COOZ', -CH2CH2 COOH, CH2CH2-COOZ', or a hydrogen atom; - Y' represents the group -COOH, -COOZ', -CH2CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2CH(OH)SO3-Z'; - Z' represents a cationic counterion from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion from an organic amine; - Ra represents an alkyl or alkenyl group in C10 to C30 of an acid Ra-COOH preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl group, especially in Cp and its iso form, an unsaturated Cp group. Ra-NHCH(Y”)-(CH2)nCONH(CH2)nN(Rd)(Re) (3) in which: - Y” represents the group -COOH, -COOZ”, -CH2-CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2CH(OH)SO3-Z' '; - Rd and Re, independently of each other, represent an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical in C1 to C4; - Z” represents a cationic counter ion from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion from an organic amine; - R, represents an alkyl or alkenyl group in C10 to C30 of an acid Ra-COOH preferably present in coconut oil or hydrolyzed linseed oil; - n and n', independently of each other, denote an integer from 1 to 3.(ii) alkyl(C8-C2o)betaines, alkyl(C8-C2o)sulfobetaines, alkyl(C8-C2o)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines and alkyl(C8-C20)-amidoalkyl(C6-C8)sulfobetaines; preferably, alone or in mixture, alkyl(C8-C20)betaines, alkyl(C8-C2o)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines, compounds of formula (1) above and compounds of formula (2) above; better, alone or in mixture, alkyl(C8-C20)betaines such as cocobetaine, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the total content of the amphoteric surfactant(s) is from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 8% by weight, better from 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the cationic galactomannan(s) are selected from cationic guar gums, preferably comprising trialkylammonium cationic groups, in particular alkyl groups in Cl-4, for example methyl; in particular from, alone or in mixtures: - hydroxypropyl derivatives of quaternary ammonium derivatives of hydroxypropylguar, in particular halide salts, in particular chlorides; in particular those having the INCI name: HYDROXYPROPYL GUAR HYDROXYPROPYL TRIMONIUM CHLORIDE - quaternary ammonium derivatives of hydroxypropylguar (understood to be non-hydroxypropyl), in particular halide salts, in particular chlorides; in particular trimethylammonium (or trimonium) derivatives of hydroxypropylguar, in particular their halide salts, especially chlorides; in particular those with the INCI name: GUAR HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising the cationic galactomannan(s) in a total content of 0.01 to 10% by weight, better 0.02 to 5% by weight, even better 0.05 to 2% by weight, or even 0.1 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more nonionic alkyl(poly)glycosides selected from, alone or in mixture, alkyl(C8-C30) (poly)glycosides, alkenyl(C8-C30)(poly)glycosides, alkyl (C8-C30)(poly)glycosides esters, these compounds optionally being oxyalkylated; preferably one or more nonionic alkyl(poly)glycosides of formula RlO-(R2O)t-(G)v in which: - RI represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising 6 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical comprises 6 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms; preferably a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical comprising 8 to 18 carbon atoms;- R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms, - G represents a sugar motif comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms; preferably glucose, fructose or galactose; even better glucose; -1 designates a value from 0 to 10, preferably from 0 to 4, better from 0 to 3, even better 0; - v designates a value from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4; the average degree of polymerization (v) being more particularly between 1 and 2; better one or more alkyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucosides, possibly oxyalkylated, preferably comprising from 1 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide, and comprising 1 to 15 glucose motifs.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising the alkyl(poly)glycoside non-ionic surfactant(s), in a total content ranging from 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.08 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the weight ratio between, on the one hand, the total quantity of amphoteric surfactant(s) and, on the other hand, the total quantity of alkyl(poly) glycoside(s) is strictly greater than 1, better greater than or equal to 5, even better greater than or equal to 8; preferably between 1 and 20, in particular between 5 and 17, or even between 8 and 15.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising water, preferably in a total content of between 65 and 98% by weight, preferably between 70 and 95% by weight, preferably between 75 and 92% by weight, even better between 80 and 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. A cosmetic treatment process, in particular for cleaning and / or conditioning keratinous materials, in particular keratinous fibers, especially hair, comprising a step of applying a cosmetic composition as defined in one of the preceding claims to said keratinous materials, preferably followed by a rinsing step.