SKINCARE AND / OR MAKE-UP COMPOSITION OF KERATINOUS MATERIALS

Abstract

SKINCARE AND / OR MAKEUP COMPOSITION FOR KERATINOUS MATERIALS The present invention relates to a skincare and / or makeup composition for keratinous materials, comprising the following components: (i) at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil selected from ethers of formula ROR' and carbonates of formula ROC(O)OR', in which the groups R and R', which may be identical or different, represent a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched hydrocarbon group comprising a maximum of 16 carbon atoms; (ii) at least one wax with a melting point not exceeding 50 °C; and (iii) murumuru butter. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for skincare and / or makeup of keratinous materials. Figure for abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: SKINCARE AND / OR MAKE-UP COMPOSITION OF KERATINOUS MATERIALS Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition. In particular, the present invention relates to a skincare and / or makeup composition of keratinous materials. The present invention further relates to a non-therapeutic method for skincare and / or makeup of keratinous materials. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] The development of formulations dedicated to skincare and / or makeup for the skin and / or lips is ongoing. Some formulations must have satisfactory sensory properties, such as a feeling of softness and a non-greasy feel after application, and also deliver an optical cosmetic effect, such as a natural glow.

[0003] Cosmetic products capable of giving the skin softness and / or a natural glow are known.

[0004] However, some products intended to give the skin a natural glow and / or softness are still not satisfactory. For example, some products are very oily.

[0005] It is desirable that cosmetic compositions do not deliver a strong oily character.

[0006] Consequently, there is always a need to formulate a composition, preferably for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin, which can provide keratinous materials, in particular of the skin, with a good feeling, i.e. a desired softness, a reduced oiliness and / or a natural glow.

[0007] Furthermore, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, which are designed and developed taking environmental issues into account, is becoming a major objective in an effort to meet global challenges.

[0008] It is therefore essential to propose more sustainable compositions to address these environmental concerns.

[0009] In this context, it is important to develop new ingredients and / or active principles that are environmentally friendly, in particular of natural origin, more specifically bio-based and / or from sustainable non-petrochemical sources, and / or biodegradable and / or obtained by extraction processes requiring low energy and water consumption in order to offer compositions that reduce the environmental impact of products. Summary of the invention

[0010] The inventors have now developed a composition having the desired properties as described above.

[0011] More specifically, the inventors have developed a composition, preferably for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, which can provide keratinous materials, in particular the skin, with a good feeling, i.e. a desired softness, reduced oiliness and / or a natural glow.

[0012] Therefore, in a first aspect, the present invention relates to a composition, preferably for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising the following components: i. at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil selected from ethers of formula ROR', carbonates of formula ROC(O)OR', and one of their mixtures, in which the groups R and R', which may be identical or different, represent a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group, branched or unbranched; ii. at least one wax whose melting point does not exceed 50 °C; and iii. Murumuru butter.

[0013] The inventors have discovered that the composition according to the present invention can be used for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin, to provide a good feeling, i.e. a desired softness, reduced oiliness and / or a natural glow.

[0014] According to a second aspect, the present invention relates to a non-therapeutic method for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising the application of the composition according to the present invention on the keratinous materials.

[0015] Other subjects and features, aspects and advantages of the present invention will be presented in the following description and, in part, will emerge from the description, or can be learned through practice of the present invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0016] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as that commonly understood by a person skilled in the art of the present invention. Where the definition of a term in this description conflicts with the meaning commonly understood by a person skilled in the art of the present invention, the definition described herein shall apply.

[0017] In what follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values ​​are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between...and..." and "from...to...".

[0018] Furthermore, the expression "at least one" used in this description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

[0019] Throughout this application, the term "including" shall be interpreted as encompassing all the specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, unspecified features. As used herein, the use of the term "including" also discloses the embodiment in which no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e., "consisting of").

[0020] Unless otherwise stated, all numerical values ​​expressing a quantity of ingredients and the like used in the description and claims shall be understood as modified by the term "approximately". Consequently, unless otherwise stated, the numerical values ​​and parameters described herein are approximate values ​​which, where appropriate, may be changed according to the desired purpose.

[0021] As used herein, the expression "keratinous materials" refers to the skin and lips. "Skin" means all the skin of the body, including the scalp. Preferably, the keratinous material is the skin of the face.

[0022] In the present invention, all percentages refer, unless otherwise indicated, to a percentage by weight.

[0023] The composition according to the present invention comprises the following components: i. at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil selected from ethers of formula ROR', carbonates of formula ROC(O)OR', and one of their mixtures, in which the groups R and R', which may be identical or different, represent a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group, branched or unbranched; ii. at least one wax whose melting point does not exceed 50 °C; and iii. murumuru butter. Non-volatile hydrocarbon oils

[0024] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil selected from ethers of formula ROR', carbonates of formula ROC(O)OR', and one of their mixtures, in which the groups R and R', which may be identical or different, represent a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched hydrocarbon group.

[0025] By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil whose vapor pressure, at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure, is non-zero and less than 2.66 Pa, more particularly less than 0.13 Pa. By way of example, the vapor pressure can be measured according to the static method or by the isothermal thermogravimetric effusion method, as a function of the vapor pressure of the oil (OECD standard 104).

[0026] Preferably, in the formula ROR', the groups R and R', which may be identical or different, represent a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group, branched or unbranched, comprising 1 to 16 carbon atoms, preferably 3 to 16 carbon atoms, more preferably 8 to 16 carbon atoms.

[0027] More preferably, in the formula ROR', the groups R and R', which may be identical or different, represent a C3-C16 alkyl, even more preferably a C8-C16 alkyl.

[0028] Preferably, in the formula ROC(O)OR', the groups R and R', which may be identical or different, represent a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group, branched or unbranched, comprising 3 to 16 carbon atoms, more preferably 8 to 16 carbon atoms.

[0029] More preferably, in the formula ROC(O)OR', the groups R and R', which may be identical or different, represent a C3-C16 alkyl, even more preferably a C8-C16 alkyl.

[0030] Preferably, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil is selected from dicaprylyl ether, dipropyl carbonate, diethylhexyl carbonate, dicaprylyl carbonate, a Cl4-15 dialkyl carbonate, and mixtures thereof.

[0031] More preferably, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil is chosen from dicaprylyl ether, dicaprylyl carbonate and mixtures thereof.

[0032] Advantageously, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% by weight to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% by weight to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 1% by weight to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Waxes

[0033] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one wax whose melting point does not exceed 50 °C.

[0034] As used herein, the term "wax" is intended to refer to a lipophilic compound with reversible solid / liquid phase change, which is solid at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

[0035] For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed by thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3: 1999.

[0036] Preferably, the wax has a melting point below 50 °C, preferably from 25 °C to 45 °C, more preferably from 25 °C to 40 °C.

[0037] Preferably, the wax whose melting point does not exceed 50 °C is chosen from hydrogenated coco-glyceride, stearyl heptanoate, myristyle myristate, myristyle palmitate, myristyle stearate, and mixtures thereof.

[0038] More preferably, the wax whose melting point does not exceed 50 °C is chosen from hydrogenated coco-glyceride, stearyl heptanoate, and mixtures thereof.

[0039] Advantageously, the wax whose melting point does not exceed 50° is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% by weight to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1% by weight to 8% by weight, even more preferably from 2% by weight to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Murumuru butter

[0040] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises murumuru butter.

[0041] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "butter" is intended to designate a lipophilic fatty compound with reversible solid / liquid phase change, comprising a liquid fraction and a solid fraction at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

[0042] Murumuru butter is extracted from the seeds of Astrocaryum murumuru, also known as Astrocaryum murumuru seed butter. Astrocaryum murumuru is a palm plant found, for example, in Brazil.

[0043] As an example of commercial murumuru butter products, one can cite that sold under the trade name RAIN FOREST 03710 by BERACA INGR. NATURAIS (CLARIANT).

[0044] Advantageously, murumuru butter is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.05% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% by weight to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.15% by weight to 3% by weight, even more preferably from 0.2% by weight to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0045] Preferably, the weight ratio between the wax whose melting point does not exceed 50 °C and the murumuru butter is 0.3 to 20, preferably 0.6 to 15, more preferably 1 to 10, even more preferably 2 to 8. Starch grafted with an acrylic polymer

[0046] Preferably, the composition of the present invention further comprises a starch grafted with an acrylic polymer.

[0047] The starch in the composition of the present invention refers to a basic starch.

[0048] The basic starch, as used herein, is intended to include all starches derived from any native source, any one of which is suitable for use herein. A native starch, as used herein, is a starch found in nature. Starches derived from a plant obtained by breeding techniques Standard methods including crossing, translocation, inversion, transformation, or any other genetic or chromosomal engineering process, to include their variations, are also appropriate. Furthermore, starches derived from a plant obtained through artificial mutations and variations of the above-mentioned generic starches, which can be produced by known standard methods of selection by mutation, are also appropriate here.

[0049] Typical sources of starch are cereals, tubers, roots, legumes, and fruits. The native source may be waxy varieties of maize, peas, potato, sweet potato, banana, barley, wheat, rice, oats, sago, amaranth, tapioca (cassava), arrowroot, canna, and sorghum, as well as their low- and high-amylose varieties.

[0050] As used herein, the expression "low amylose" starch is intended to include starch containing not more than about 10%, in particular not more than 5%, and more particularly not more than 2% by weight of amylose.

[0051] As used herein, the expression "high amylose" starch is intended to include starch containing at least about 50%, in particular at least about 70%, and more particularly at least about 80% by weight of amylose.

[0052] The acrylic polymer can be a homopolymer or a copolymer, preferably a homopolymer.

[0053] Preferably, the acrylic polymer is a sodium polyacrylate.

[0054] More preferably, the starch grafted with an acrylic polymer used comprises from 1% by weight to 30% by weight of starch and from 70% by weight to 99% by weight of an acrylic polymer, preferably from 5% by weight to 20% by weight of starch and from 80% by weight to 95% by weight of an acrylic polymer, more preferably from 8% by weight to 15% by weight of starch and from 85% by weight to 92% by weight of an acrylic polymer.

[0055] In a preferred embodiment, the starch grafted with an acrylic polymer used consists of 90% by weight of sodium polyacrylate and 10% by weight of starch.

[0056] The starch grafted with an acrylic polymer used in the present invention can be cross-linked or non-cross-linked.

[0057] The number average molecular weight of the starch grafted with an acrylic polymer used is preferably greater than 1000 daltons.

[0058] Examples include starch grafted with an acrylic polymer and in particular with a sodium polyacrylate, such as those sold under the name Sanfresh ST-100MC by Sanyo Chemical Industries or Makhnousse 25, Makhnousse 12 or Makhnousse 7 by Daito Kasei (INCI name: Sodium polyacrylate starch).

[0059] Advantageously, the starch grafted with an acrylic polymer is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.08% by weight to 3% by weight, even more preferably from 0.1% by weight to 1.5% by weight, most preferably from 0.2% by weight to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Alkyl polyglucosides

[0060] Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one alkyl polyglucoside.

[0061] Preferably, the alkyl polyglucoside is chosen from those of formula (I):

[0062] RO-Gx (I)

[0063] in which

[0064] - R is an alkyl group in C6-C22,

[0065] - G is a glucose motif, and

[0066] - x' represents the average degree of polymerization of the alkyl polyglucoside from 1 to 10.

[0067] For a specific alkyl polyglucoside molecule, x' can only take integer values. In any physical sample of alkyl polyglucosides, there will generally be molecules with different values ​​of x'. The physical sample can be characterized by the average value of x', which can take non-integer values. In this disclosure, the values ​​of x' should be understood as average values.

[0068] The hydrophilic part of the alkyl polyglucoside is a polyglucoside which contains from about 1 to about 10, preferably from 1 to 3 glucoside motifs on average.

[0069] The hydrophobic group on the alkyl polyglucoside is an alkyl group, linear or branched, containing from about 6 to about 22 carbon atoms on average. Preferably, the alkyl group contains from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferably, the alkyl group contains from 12 to 20 carbon atoms.

[0070] More preferably, in formula (I):

[0071] - R is a C12-C20 alkyl group,

[0072] - G is a glucose motif,

[0073] - x' goes from 1 to 3.

[0074] Preferably, the alkyl polyglucoside is selected from lauryl glucoside, myristyl glucoside, cetyl glucoside, cetearyl glucoside, a (C12-20 alkyl) glucoside, octyldodecyl glucoside, stearyl glucoside, isostearyl glucoside, and one of their combinations.

[0075] Advantageously, the alkyl polyglucoside is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, of preference of 0.05% by weight to 5% by weight, more preferably of 0.1% by weight to 3% by weight, even more preferably of 0.15% by weight to 1.5% by weight, even more preferably of 0.2% by weight to 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Fatty alcohols

[0076] Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one fatty alcohol.

[0077] The expression "fatty alcohol" means an alcohol comprising at least one hydroxyl group (OH), and comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, and which is neither oxyalkylated (in particular neither oxyethylated, nor oxypropylated), nor glycerolated.

[0078] Fatty alcohols can be represented by R-OH, in which R designates a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl comprising 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and even more preferably 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0079] Non-limiting examples of useful fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol; myristyl alcohol (1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (1-octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (1-hexacosanol); montanyyl alcohol (1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (1-triacontanol), and mixtures thereof.

[0080] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more fatty alcohols having 12 to 24 carbon atoms. Specific non-limiting examples of fatty alcohols having 12 to 24 carbon atoms include C14-22 alcohols, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

[0081] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more fatty alcohols selected from C14-22 alcohols, dodecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol and a mixture thereof.

[0082] Advantageously, the fatty alcohol is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.2% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.6% by weight to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.8% by weight to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Aqueous phase

[0083] Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises an aqueous phase.

[0084] The aqueous phase is preferably present in an amount ranging from 10% by weight to 96% by weight, more preferably from 30% by weight to 90% by weight, even more preferably from 50% by weight to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0085] Preferably, the aqueous phase comprises at least one water-miscible organic solvent at an ambient temperature of 25 °C, such as monoalcohols having 2 to 6 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol; polyols having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol; glycol ethers (having in particular 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as mono-, di- or tri-propylene glycol (C1-C4 alkyl) ethers, mono-, di- or tri-ethylene glycol (C1-C4 alkyl) ethers; and mixtures thereof.

[0086] More preferably, the organic solvent is present in an amount ranging from 0.5% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% by weight to 15% by weight, more preferably from 2% by weight to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0087] Preferably, the aqueous phase comprises water, preferably in an amount ranging from 10% by weight to 90% by weight, preferably from 30% by weight to 80% by weight, even more preferably from 50% by weight to 75% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0088] In some preferred embodiments, the aqueous phase comprises water and a polyol having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably selected from glycerin, pentylene glycol and mixtures thereof.

[0089] In some preferred embodiments, the composition of the present invention comprises 50% by weight to 75% by weight of water and 2% by weight to 10% by weight of a combination of glycerin and pentylene glycol, relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional adjuvants or additives

[0090] The composition of the present invention may also contain conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, for example preservatives and bactericides, thickeners other than starch grafted with an acrylic polymer, surfactants, pH regulators, and mixtures thereof.

[0091] A person skilled in the art can adjust the quantity of additional adjuvants or additives so that they do not have a negative impact on the final use of the composition according to the present invention.

[0092] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the present invention proposes a composition, preferably for skincare and / or makeup, of keratinous materials comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0093]

[0094]

[0095]

[0096]

[0097]

[0098] i. from 0.5% by weight to 5% by weight of at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil chosen from dicaprylyl ether, dicaprylyl carbonate and mixtures thereof; ii. from 1% by weight to 8% by weight of at least one wax selected from hydrogenated coco-glyceride, stearyl heptanoate, and mixtures thereof; and iii. from 0.2% by weight to 1% by weight of murumuru butter. Method and use Preferably, the composition of the present invention is used for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials. According to the second aspect, the present invention relates to a non-therapeutic method for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising the application of the composition according to the present invention on the keratinous materials. Keratinous material can be skin or scalp. Preferably, keratinous material is facial skin. EXAMPLES The following examples are given as non-limiting illustrations of the present invention. The main raw materials used, their trade names and their suppliers are listed in Table 1. [Tables 1] INCI Name Trade Name Supplier Sodium polyacrylate starch MAKIMOUSSE 12 DAITO KASEI KOGYO C14-22 alcohols (and) C12-20 alkyl glucoside MONTANOV L SEPPIC Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate STRUCTURE XL AKZO NOBEL (NOURY ON) Astrocaryum murumuru seed butter RAIN FOREST 03710 BERACA INGR. NATURAIS (CLARIANT) Hydrogenated coco-glycerides (SOFTISAN 100 IOI GROUP OLEOCHE MICALS) Butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter (FAIR FOR LIFE REFINED SHEA BUTTER) Hydrogenated vegetable oil (CEGESOFT HF 52 BASF) Copernicia cerifera (carnauba) wax (CERAUBAT1 BAERLOCHER)

[0099] Examples 1 to 3 of the invention and comparative examples 1 to 4

[0100] The compositions of the examples of the invention (El.) 1 to 3 and of the comparative examples (EC) 1 to 4 were prepared on the basis of the quantities given in Table 2. The quantities are given as % by weight of each ingredient in relation to the total weight of the composition, MA meaning active substance.

[0101] [Tables2] Components El. 1 DI 2 DI 3 EC. 1 EC. 2 EC. 3 EC. 4 Glycerin 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 Pentylene glycol 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 Sodium polyacrylate starch 0.45 0.45 0.25 0.25 0.45 0.45 0.45 Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Dicaprylyl ether 2 2 - - 2 2 2 Dicaprylyl carbonate - - 2 - - - - Isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate - - - 2 - - - Astrocaryum murumuru seed butter 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 - Butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter - - - - - - 0.6 Stearyl heptanoate 3 - 3 3 - - 3 Hydrogenated coconut glycerides - 3 - - - - - Hydrogenated vegetable oil - - - - 3 - - Copernicia cerifera (carnauba) wax - - - - - 3 - (C12-20 alkyl glucoside) 0.3(MA) 0.3(MA) 0.3(MA) 0.3(MA) 0.3(MA) 0.3(MA) 0.3(MA) Water QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100

[0102] The compositions of examples 1 to 3 of the invention represent the compositions according to the present invention.

[0103] The composition of comparative example 1 includes isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate instead of component (i).

[0104] The composition of comparative example 2 includes hydrogenated vegetable oil instead of component (ii).

[0105] The composition of comparative example 3 includes Copernicia cerifera (carnauba) wax instead of component (ii).

[0106] The composition of comparative example 4 includes Butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter instead of component (iii).

[0107] Preparation process:

[0108] The compositions listed above were prepared as follows:

[0109] 1. Phase A: Introduce glycerin and pentylene glycol into water at 85 °C under agitate at 200 rpm to obtain a clear liquid, then introduce the hydroxypropyl starch phosphate under agitation at 400 rpm until a homogeneous phase A is obtained;

[0110] 2. Phase B: Mix the dicaprylyl ether (if applicable), the dicaprylyl carbonate (if applicable), isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate (if applicable), Astrocaryum murumuru seed butter (if applicable), Butyrospermum parkii butter (shea) (if applicable), stearyl heptanoate (if applicable), hydrogenated coco-glycerides (if applicable), hydrogenated vegetable oil (if applicable), Copemicia cerifera (camauba) wax (if applicable), Cl4-22 alcohols (and) (C12-20 alkyl)glucoside under stirring at 80 °C to obtain a clear oil-type phase B;

[0111] 3. Introduce phase B into phase A at 70 °C under stirring at 900 rpm for 15 minutes to obtain a mixture;

[0112] 4. introduce the sodium polyacrylate starch into the mixture obtained in step 3. Stir until uniform, then cool to room temperature (25°C). Composition evaluation

[0113] The level of softness, the level of boldness and the brightness delivered by the compositions of examples 1 to 3 of the invention and comparative examples 1 to 4 were evaluated. Softness level

[0114] The level of softness delivered by each of the compositions of examples 1 to 3 of the invention and comparative examples 1 to 4 was evaluated by 10 skin experts during a blind test.

[0115] To assess the level of softness, the experts applied 0.3 g of each test composition to the skin. After 2 minutes, the degree of softness provided by each test composition was rated on a scale of 1 to 5 according to the following standard, and then the ratings were averaged for each composition.

[0116] 1: means a very slight sensation of softness,

[0117] 2: means a slight sensation of softness,

[0118] 3: signifies a moderate sensation of softness,

[0119] 4: means a moderate to strong sensation of softness,

[0120] 5: signifies a strong sensation of softness.

[0121] During the test, glycerin was used as the standard sample and the sweetness thus delivered received a score of 5.

[0122] For the purposes of the present invention, a higher sweetness score indicates a better level of sweetness in the composition; preferably, the sweetness score is 4 or higher. Bold font level

[0123] The level of boldness delivered by each of the compositions of examples 1 to 3 of the invention and comparative examples 1 to 4 was evaluated by 10 skin experts during a blind test.

[0124] To assess the level of oiliness, the experts applied 0.3 g of each test composition to the skin. The level of oiliness delivered by each test composition was then rated on a scale of 1 to 5 according to the following standard, and the ratings were averaged for each composition.

[0125] 1: means a very low bold typeface,

[0126] 2: means a slightly bold typeface,

[0127] 3: signifies a moderate bold character,

[0128] 4: signifies a moderate to strong bold character,

[0129] 5: signifies a strong bold typeface.

[0130] During the test, the Butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter called FAIR FOR LIFE REFINED SHEA BUTTER supplied by OLVEA was used as a standard sample and the level of fatness thus delivered was given a score of 5.

[0131] For the purposes of the present invention, the lowest note of the bold character indicates a better level of boldness of the composition; preferably, the note of the bold character is 2 or less. Brightness level

[0132] The level of radiance delivered by each of the compositions of examples 1 to 3 of the invention and comparative examples 1 to 4 was evaluated by 10 skin experts during a blind test.

[0133] To assess the level of radiance, the experts applied 0.3 g of each test composition to the skin. After 2 minutes, the degree of skin radiance delivered by each test composition was noted on a scale of 1 to 5 according to the following standard, and then the scores were averaged for each composition.

[0134] 1: means a very low brightness,

[0135] 2: means a slight glare,

[0136] 3: signifies a moderate brightness,

[0137] 4: signifies a moderate to strong brightness,

[0138] 5: signifies a strong burst.

[0139] During the test, caprylic / capric triglyceride was used as a standard sample and the level of brightness thus delivered was given a score of 5.

[0140] For the purposes of the present invention, a brightness level rating greater than 1 and less than 3 is preferred.

[0141] The results for the level of softness, the level of boldness and the level of brightness delivered by the compositions of Examples 1 to 3 of the invention and comparative examples 1 to 4 have been summarized in Table 3.

[0142] [Tables3] Properties IE.1 IE.2 EL 3 EC. 1 EC. 2 EC.3 EC.4 Softness level 4.2 4.4 4.0 2.2 1.7 1.5 3.2 Boldness level 1.6 1.4 1.7 3.5 2.9 3.5 3.5 Brightness level 1.3 2.0 1.8 5.0 4.7 4.6 4.6

[0143] The composition of examples 3 of the invention can deliver a desired softness, less boldness and a natural shine.

Claims

Demands

1. Composition, preferably for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising the following components: (i) at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil selected from ethers of formula ROR', carbonates of formula ROC(O)OR', and a mixture thereof, in which the groups R and R', which may be identical or different, represent a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched hydrocarbon group; (ii) at least one wax whose melting point does not exceed 50 °C; and (iii) murumuru butter.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein, in the formula ROR' and / or the formula ROC(O)OR', the groups R and R', which may be identical or different, represent a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group, branched or unbranched, comprising 1 to 16 carbon atoms, preferably 3 to 16 carbon atoms, more preferably 8 to 16 carbon atoms, even more preferably, the groups R and R', which may be identical or different, represent a C8-C16 alkyl.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil is selected from dicaprylylether, dipropyl carbonate, diethylhexyl carbonate, dicaprylyl carbonate, a C14-15 dialkyl carbonate, and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from dicaprylylether, dicaprylyl carbonate, and mixtures thereof.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil is present in an amount from 0.1% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% by weight to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% by weight to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 1% by weight to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the wax has a melting point below 50 °C, preferably from 25 °C to 45 °C, more preferably from 25 °C to 40 °C; preferably the wax is selected from hydrogenated coco-glyceride, stearyl heptanoate, myristyle myristate, myristyle palmitate, myristyle stearate, and mixtures thereof, preference chosen from among hydrogenated coco-glyceride, stearyl heptanoate, and mixtures thereof.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the wax whose melting point does not exceed 50 °C is present in an amount from 0.1% by weight to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% by weight to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1% by weight to 8% by weight, even more preferably from 2% by weight to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein murumuru butter is present in an amount from 0.05% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% by weight to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.15% by weight to 3% by weight, even more preferably from 0.2% by weight to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, further comprising a starch grafted with an acrylic polymer.

9. Composition according to claim 1, comprising, in relation to the total weight of the composition: (i) 0.5% by weight to 5% by weight of at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil selected from dicaprylyl ether, dicaprylyl carbonate and mixtures thereof; (ii) 1% by weight to 8% by weight of at least one wax selected from hydrogenated coco-glyceride, stearyl heptanoate, and mixtures thereof; and (iii) 0.2% by weight to 1% by weight of murumuru butter.

10. Non-therapeutic method of care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising the application of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 on keratinous materials.