PROCESS FOR TREATMENT OF KERATINOUS FIBERS AND / OR THE SCALP WITH AN AQUEOUS COMPOSITION COMPRISING A C-GLYCOSIDE COMPONENT

Abstract

PROCESS FOR TREATMENT OF KERATINOUS FIBERS AND / OR THE SCALP WITH AN AQUEOUS COMPOSITION COMPRISING A C-GLYCOSIDE COMPONENT. The present invention relates to a process for treating keratinous fibers, such as hair, and / or the scalp, comprising a step of applying to the keratinous fibers and / or the scalp a composition comprising: (a) at least one hydrophilic active agent selected from C-glycoside compounds; (b) at least one water-soluble alcohol in an amount less than 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and (c) water in an amount greater than 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The present invention may offer improved application properties with less squeaking and may provide the keratinous fibers and / or scalp with a better feel. Figure for abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: PROCESS FOR TREATMENT OF KERATINOUS FIBERS AND / OR SCALP WITH AN AQUEOUS COMPOSITION COMPRISING A C-GLYCOSIDE COMPONENT technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a process for treating keratinous fibers, such as hair and / or scalp, with an aqueous composition comprising at least one hydrophilic active agent selected from C-glycoside compounds. Furthermore, the present invention relates to the treatment composition for keratinous fibers, such as hair and / or scalp, comprising at least one hydrophilic active agent selected from C-glycoside compounds. CONTEXT OF THE INVENTION

[0002] In the cosmetics field, cosmetic compositions that provide conditioning effects are increasingly sought after by users. To achieve these conditioning effects, active agents are generally included in the compositions. In cosmetic compositions containing active agents for keratin fibers and / or the scalp, oils and water-soluble alcohols are widely used as a medium in cosmetic formulations.

[0003] For example, document WO 2023 / 112655 discloses a cosmetic composition comprising: (a) at least one hydrophilic active agent; (b) at least one water-soluble alcohol; (c) at least one oil and (d) at least one ingredient derived from water lilies, which is different from (a) at least one hydrophilic active agent.

[0004] In addition, document WO 2023 / 112544 discloses a composition comprising: (a) at least one hydrophilic active agent, (b) at least one water-soluble alcohol in an amount of 40% by weight or more relative to the total weight of the composition, (c) at least one oil, (d) at least one non-ionic guar gum and (e) water in an amount of 35% by weight or less relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0005] However, among customers, there is still a demand for a new process for treating keratinous fibers, such as hair and / or scalp, with compositions comprising at least one C-glycoside compound as a hydrophilic active agent, which can give keratinous fibers and / or scalp an improved feeling of cleanliness and lightness and which also presents an improved application feel. DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION

[0006] An objective of the present invention is to propose a process for treating keratinous fibers, such as hair and / or scalp, with an aqueous composition comprising at least one C-glycoside compound as a hydrophilic active agent, which can give the keratinous fibers and / or scalp an improved feeling of cleanliness and lightness and which also presents an improved application sensation.

[0007] The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a process for treating keratinous fibers, such as hair and / or scalp, comprising a step of applying to the keratinous fibers and / or scalp a composition comprising: a. at least one hydrophilic active agent selected from among the C-glycoside compounds; b. at least one water-soluble alcohol in an amount less than 40% weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and c. water in a quantity of more than 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0008] The (a) C-glycoside compound can be selected from C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-n-propane-2-one; C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-n-propane-2-one; C-beta-D-xylopyranosyl-2-hydroxypropane; C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane; l-(C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane; l-(C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane; l-(C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane; l-(C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane; 3'-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)propane-2'-one; 3'-(acetamido-C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)propane-2'-one; 1-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane; 1-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane; as well as their cosmetically acceptable salts, their solvates such as hydrates, and their optical isomers, preferably chosen from C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane and C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, and more preferably C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane.

[0009] The (a) hydrophilic active agent may be present in an amount from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 17.5% by weight, more preferably from 3% to 15% by weight, and even more preferably from 5% to 12.5% ​​by weight, relative to the total weight of the solution.

[0010] The (b) water-soluble alcohol may be chosen from monoalcohol(s) and polyol(s), preferably the water-soluble alcohol is chosen from monoalcohol(s), diol(s) and polyol(s) having three or more hydroxyl groups, in particular triol.

[0011] The (b) water-soluble alcohol may comprise at least one monoalcohol and the monoalcohol(s) may be present in an amount ranging from 5% to 35% by weight, preferably 10% to 30% by weight, and more preferably 15% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0012] The (b) water-soluble alcohol may comprise at least one polyol and the polyol(s) may be present in an amount from 5% to 30% by weight, preferably from 10% to 25% by weight, and more preferably from 15% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0013] The (b) water-soluble alcohol may be selected from a combination of at least one monoalcohol in an amount ranging from 5% to 35% by weight, at least one diol in an amount ranging from 3% to 25% by weight, and at least one polyol having three or more hydroxyl groups, in particular triol, in an amount ranging from 0.3% to 7% by weight, preferably a combination of at least one monoalcohol in an amount ranging from 10% to 30% by weight, at least one diol in an amount ranging from 5% to 20% by weight, and at least one polyol having three or more hydroxyl groups, in particular triol, in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight, and more preferably a combination of at least one monoalcohol in an amount ranging from 15% to 25% by weight, at least one diol in an amount ranging from 10 % to 17% by weight, and at least one polyol having three or more hydroxyl groups, in particular triol, in an amount ranging from 1% to 3% by weight,relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0014] The quantity of (c) water can range from 15% to 85% by weight, preferably from 20% to 75% by weight, more preferably from 25% to 65% by weight, and even more preferably from 30% to 60% by weight, and preferably from 35% to 55% relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0015] The composition may further include at least one oil.

[0016] The oil may be present in an amount ranging from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 3% to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0017] The composition may further include at least one additional hydrophilic active agent.

[0018] The additional hydrophilic active agent may be chosen from arginine, Hydroxyethylurea, niacinamide, biotin, caffeine and their combinations.

[0019] The composition may further include at least one surfactant, preferably chosen from non-ionic surfactants.

[0020] It is preferable that the process be one of hair and / or scalp care and / or conditioning.

[0021] The present invention also relates to a care and / or conditioning composition for keratinous fibers, such as hair and / or scalp, comprising (a) at least one hydrophilic active agent selected from C-glycoside compounds; (b) at least one water-soluble alcohol in an amount less than 40 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and (c) water in an amount exceeding 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Best embodiment of the invention

[0022] After extensive research, the inventors surprisingly discovered that a process for treating keratinous fibers, such as hair and / or scalp, with an aqueous formulation comprising at least one hydrophilic active agent selected from C-glycoside compounds, a greater quantity of water and a lesser quantity of water-soluble alcohol as media, can impart to the keratinous fibers and / or scalp an improved feeling of cleanliness and lightness, and presents an improved application feel, and have thus realized the present invention.

[0023] Thus, the present invention relates to a process for treating keratinous fibers, such as hair, and / or the scalp, comprising a step of applying to the keratinous fibers and / or the scalp a composition comprising: a. at least one hydrophilic active agent selected from among the C-glycoside compounds; b. at least one water-soluble alcohol in an amount less than 40% weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and c. water in a quantity of more than 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0024] The process and composition according to the present invention will be explained in more detail below. [Process]

[0025] The process according to the present invention is intended for the treatment of keratin fibers and / or scalp. Keratin fibers herein refer to fibers containing keratin as a principal component, and examples include hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, and the like. Preferably, the keratin fiber of the present invention refers to hair.

[0026] Preferably, the process according to the present invention should be intended for a cosmetic process of treating keratinous fibers and / or the scalp, and more preferably hair and / or the scalp. A cosmetic process is understood here to be a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for the care and / or conditioning of keratinous material.

[0027] The application step of the composition can be carried out by any conventional means such as an applicator, for example the hands, a sprayer, a brush or a comb. The application step can be a topical application step.

[0028] The composition to be applied to the keratin fibers and / or the scalp can take various forms, such as a solution, gel, lotion, serum, suspension, dispersion, fluid, milk, paste, cream, foam, emulsion (oil-in-water or oil-in-oil form), multiple emulsions (e.g., oil-in-water, polyol-in-oil, and oil-in-oil), and the like. Preferably, the composition according to the present invention is a solution, in particular a homogeneous solution. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "homogeneous" is understood to mean a composition consisting of a single phase.

[0029] The composition to be applied to the keratinous fibers and / or the scalp includes (a) at least one hydrophilic active agent selected from the C-glycoside compounds, (b) at least one water-soluble alcohol in an amount less than 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and (c) water in an amount greater than 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0030] Since the composition includes a relatively large amount of water and a smaller amount of water-soluble alcohol along with the specific hydrophilic active agent, the process according to the present invention can exhibit improved application properties with less squeaking on keratinous fibers, such as hair. This property can produce uniform and even coatings on keratinous fibers, such as hair. Furthermore, since the composition includes a relatively large amount of water and a smaller amount of water-soluble alcohol, the process can impart a cleaner, lighter, more hydrated, and fresher feeling to keratinous fibers, such as hair and / or the scalp.

[0031] The ingredients included in the composition will be described in detail below. (Hydrophilic active agent)

[0032] The composition used in the process according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one hydrophilic active agent selected from C-glycoside compounds. Two or more C-glycoside compounds may be used in combination as (a) a hydrophilic active agent. Thus, a single type of C-glycoside compound or a combination of different types of C-glycoside compounds may be used as (a) a hydrophilic active agent.

[0033] By "hydrophilic active agent" is meant an active agent for keratinous fibers, such as hair and / or scalp, which is soluble in water at a concentration of at least 1% by weight, for example, at least 5% by weight or at least 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of water at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (105 Pa).

[0034] The C-glycoside compound can be represented by the following general formula (I): s'" ^x—fV”

[0035] in which:

[0036] - R denotes a linear alkyl radical not substituted in Ci-C4 and in particular in Ci-C2, including methyl;

[0037] - S represents a monosaccharide selected from D-glucose, D-xylose, N- acetyl-D-glucosamine and L-fucose and, in particular, D-xylose;

[0038] - X represents a group chosen from -CO-, -CH(OH)- and -CH(NH2)- and, of preferably, a -CH(OH)- group;

[0039] as well as their cosmetically acceptable salts, their solvates such as hydrates and their optical isomers.

[0040] By way of non-limiting illustrations of C-glycoside compounds of formula (I) which are more particularly suitable for the present invention, the following compounds may be mentioned in particular:

[0041] - C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-n-propane-2-one;

[0042] - C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-n-propane-2-one;

[0043] - C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane;

[0044] - C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane;

[0045] - l-(C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane;

[0046] - l-(C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane;

[0047] - l-(C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane;

[0048] - l-(C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane;

[0049] - 3'-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)propane-2'-one;

[0050] - 3'-(acetamido-C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)propane-2'-one;

[0051] - l-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane;

[0052] - l-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane;

[0053] - as well as their cosmetically acceptable salts, their solvates such as hydrates and their optical isomers.

[0054] According to a particular embodiment, the C-glycoside compound is chosen from C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane and C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane and, even better, C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane.

[0055] According to a particular embodiment, the C-glycoside compound of formula (I) which is suitable for the present invention may advantageously be C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, whose INCI name is HYDROXYPROPYL TETRAHYDROPYRANTRIOL, sold in particular under the name MEXORYL SBB® or MEXORYL SCN® by NOVEAL.

[0056] The salts of C-glycosides of formula (I) suitable for the present invention may include conventional physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds, such as those formed from organic or inorganic acids. Examples include salts of mineral acids such as sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, hydrobromic acid, hydroiodic acid, phosphoric acid, and boric acid. Also included are salts of organic acids, which may comprise one or more carboxylic, sulfonic, or phosphonic acid groups. These may be linear, branched, or cyclic aliphatic acids, or alternatively, aromatic acids. These acids may also comprise one or more heteroatoms selected from O and N, for example, in the form of hydroxyl groups. Examples include propionic acid, acetic acid, terephthalic acid, citric acid and tartaric acid.

[0057] C-glycosides (I) are also known from document WO 02 / 051828.

[0058] The (a) hydrophilic active agent(s) may be present in the composition in an amount of 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 1% by weight or more, more preferably 3% by weight or more, and even more preferably 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0059] The (a) hydrophilic active agent(s) may be present in the composition in an amount of 20% by weight or less, preferably 17.5% by weight or less, more preferably 15% by weight or less, and even more preferably 12.5% ​​by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0060] The (a) hydrophilic active agent(s) may be present in the composition in an amount of 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably 1% to 17.5% by weight, more preferably 3% to 15% by weight, and even more preferably 5% to 12.5% ​​by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Water-soluble alcohol)

[0061] The composition used in the process according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one water-soluble alcohol. Two or more water-soluble alcohols may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of water-soluble alcohol or a combination of different types of water-soluble alcohols may be used.

[0062] The expression "water-soluble alcohol" here refers to an alcohol that can dissolve in an amount of 0.1 g or more, 0.5 g or more, or 1 g or more in 100 mL of water at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (105 Pa).

[0063] The water-soluble alcohol of the present invention can be chosen from monoalcohol and polyol.

[0064] More preferably, the water-soluble alcohol of the present invention is chosen from monoalcohol(s), diol(s) and polyol(s) having three or more hydroxyl groups, in particular triol.

[0065] More preferably, the water-soluble alcohol comprises at least one monoalcohol and at least one polyol in combination.

[0066] More preferably, the water-soluble alcohol comprises at least one monoalcohol, at least one diol and at least one polyol having three or more hydroxyl groups, in particular triol, in combination.

[0067] - Monoalcoholic

[0068] The monoalcohol can be a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated monoalcohol comprising from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, and preferably from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, comprising only one hydroxyl (OH) function.

[0069] In one embodiment, the monoalcohol can be an aliphatic monoalcohol comprising from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, and preferably from 2 to 8 carbon atoms.

[0070] The term "aliphatic monoalcohol" here refers to any saturated alkane compound, linear or branched, comprising only one hydroxyl (OH) function.

[0071] The aliphatic monoalcohol(s) present in the compositions of the present invention may be chosen from ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol and mixtures thereof.

[0072] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the monoalcohol can be chosen from linear aliphatic monoalcohols comprising 1 to 8 carbon atoms, and preferably 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol, butanol and mixtures thereof.

[0073] - Polyol

[0074] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polyol" should be understood as designating any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.

[0075] The polyol suitable for use in the present invention may be a linear, branched or cyclic alkyl type compound, saturated or unsaturated, bearing at least two -OH functions on the alkyl chain.

[0076] Preferably, a polyol that can be used in the composition is a linear or branched alkyl type compound, preferably linear bearing at least two -OH functions, preferably 2 to 5 -OH functions, more preferably 2 to 4 -OH functions, and even more preferably 2 or 3 -OH functions on the alkyl chain.

[0077] Polyols which are advantageously suited to the formulation of cosmetic compositions are those comprising in particular 2 to 8 carbon atoms or for example 3 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0078] The polyols that can be used are chosen from linear or branched polyols, preferably linear ones having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; and examples include:

[0079] - diols such as hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, pentylene glycol, the propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, butylene glycol; and

[0080] - triols, such as glycerol (glycerin),

[0081] and mixtures thereof.

[0082] Preferably, the diol(s) is / are chosen from pentylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol and propylene glycol.

[0083] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the polyol comprises at least one diol.

[0084] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the polyol comprises at least one diol and at least one polyol having three or more -OH functions, in particular triol, in combination.

[0085] The composition comprises the alcohol or alcohols soluble in water, which may include at least one monoalcohol and / or at least one polyol, in an amount less than 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0086] Water-soluble alcohol(s) may be present in the composition in an amount of 5% by weight or more, preferably 10% by weight or more, more preferably 15% by weight or more, and even more preferably 20% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0087] Preferably, the composition comprises the monoalcohol(s) in an amount of 35% by weight or less, more preferably 30% by weight or less, and even more preferably 25% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0088] Preferably, the composition comprises the monoalcohol(s) in an amount of 5% by weight or more, more preferably 10% by weight or more, and even more preferably 15% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0089] Preferably, the monoalcohol(s) may be present in the composition in an amount ranging preferably from 5% to 35% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 30% by weight, and even more preferably from 15% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0090] Preferably, the composition comprises the polyol(s) in an amount of 30% by weight or less, more preferably 25% by weight or less, and even more preferably 20% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0091] Preferably, the composition comprises the polyol(s) in an amount of 5% by weight or more, more preferably 10% by weight or more, and even more preferably 15% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0092] Preferably, the polyol(s) may be present in the composition in an amount ranging preferably from 5% to 30% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 25% by weight, and even more preferably from 15% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0093] Preferably, the composition comprises both the monoalcohol(s) and the polyol(s), preferably a combination of the monoalcohol(s) in an amount from 5% to 35% by weight and the polyol(s) in an amount from 5% to 30% by weight, more preferably a combination of the monoalcohol(s) in an amount from 10% to 30% by weight and the polyol(s) in an amount from 10% to 25% by weight, and more preferably a combination of the monoalcohol(s) in an amount from 15% to 25% by weight and the polyol(s) in an amount from 15% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0094] Preferably, the water-soluble alcohol is a diol, and the diol may be present in an amount of 3% by weight or more, preferably 5% by weight or more, and more preferably 10% by weight or more, and / or may be 25% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less, and more preferably 17% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0095] Preferably, the water-soluble alcohol is a diol in an amount ranging from 3% to 25% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, and even more preferably from 10% to 17% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0096] Preferably, the water-soluble alcohol is a polyol having three or more hydroxyl groups, in particular, a triol, in an amount of 0.3% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more; and / or may be 7% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 3% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0097] Preferably, the water-soluble alcohol is a polyol having three or more hydroxyl groups, in particular a triol, in an amount from 0.3% to 7% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0098] More preferably, the composition comprises a combination of at least one monoalcohol, at least one diol, and at least one polyol having three or more hydroxyl groups, in particular triol. Preferably, the composition comprises monoalcohol(s) in an amount ranging from 5% to 35% by weight, diol(s) in an amount ranging from 3% to 25% by weight, and polyol(s) having three or more hydroxyl groups, in particular triol(s), in an amount ranging from 0.3% to 7% by weight; more preferably monoalcohol(s) in an amount ranging from 10% to 30% by weight, diol(s) in an amount ranging from 5% to 20% by weight, and triol(s) in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight; and even more preferentially the monoalcohol(s) in an amount of 15% to 25% by weight, the diol(s) in an amount ranging from 10% to 17% by weight, and the triol(s) in an amount ranging from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Water)

[0099] The composition used in the process according to the present invention comprises (c) water.

[0100] The composition comprises (c) water in an amount exceeding 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0101] The amount of water in the composition may be 15% by weight or more, preferably 20% by weight or more, more preferably 25% by weight or more, even more preferably 30% by weight or more, and preferably 35% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0102] The amount of water in the composition may be 85% by weight or less, preferably 75% by weight or less, more preferably 65% ​​by weight or less, even more preferably 60% by weight or less, and preferably 55% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0103] The amount of water in the composition can range from 15% to 85% by weight, preferably from 20% to 75% by weight, more preferably from 25% to 65% by weight, and even more preferably from 30% to 60% by weight, and preferably from 35% to 55% relative to the total weight of the composition. (Optional ingredients) •#Additional hydrophilic active agent

[0104] The composition used in the process according to the present invention may comprise at least one hydrophilic active agent in addition to (a) C-glycoside compound. This means that the composition may comprise at least one additional hydrophilic active agent other than (a) C-glycoside compound.

[0105] As additional hydrophilic active agents, examples include moisturizers, depigmenting agents, desquamating agents, anti-aging agents, mattifying agents, healing agents, an ingredient promoting blood circulation, antibacterial agents and mixtures thereof.

[0106] The additional hydrophilic active agent is preferably solid at 20 °C and atmospheric pressure (105 Pa).

[0107] The additional hydrophilic active agent is preferably selected from amino acids or their derivatives, vitamin B3 or its derivatives, urea or its derivatives, biotinic compounds, caffeine and mixtures thereof.

[0108] Examples of amino acids or their derivatives include betaine (trimethylglycine), proline, hydroxyproline, arginine, lysine, serine, glycine, alanine, phenylalanine, [3-alanine], threonine, glutamic acid, glutamine, aspartic acid, cysteine, cystine, methionine, leucine, isoleucine, valine, histidine, threonine, tyrosine, taurine, γ-aminobutyric acid, γ-amino-[3-hydroxybutyric acid], carnitine, carnosine, creatine, epsilon aminocaproic acid, tryptophan, and the like. Preferably, the amino acid used as an additional hydrophilic active agent is arginine.

[0109] Vitamin B3, also called vitamin PP, is a compound with the following formula (I): Ç.JR

[0110] in which R may be -CONH2 (niacinamide), -COOH (nicotinic acid or niacin), or CH2OH (nicotinic alcohol), -CO-NH-CH2-COOH (nicotinuric acid) or -CO-NH-OH (niconitylic hydroxamic acid). Niacinamide is preferred.

[0111] Among the derivatives of vitamin B3, we may cite, for example, the esters of nicotinic acid such as tocopherol nicotinate, the amides derived from niacinamide by substitution of the hydrogen groups of -CONH2, the products of the reaction with carboxylic acids and amino acids, the esters of nicotinyl alcohol and carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, salicyclic acid, glycolic acid or palmitic acid.

[0112] The following derivatives may also be mentioned: 2-chloronicotinamide, 6-methylnicotinamide, 6-aminonicotinamide, N-methylnicotinamide, N,N-dimethylnicotinamide, N-(hydroxymethyl)nicotinamide, quinolinic acid imide, nicotinanilide, N-benzylnicotinamide, N-ethylnicotinamide, nifenazone, nicotinaldehyde, isonicotinic acid, methylisonicotinic acid, thionicotinamide, nialamide, 2-mercaptonicotinic acid, nicomol and niaprazine, methyl nicotinate and sodium nicotinate.

[0113] Other derivatives of vitamin B3 that may also be mentioned include its inorganic salts, such as chlorides, bromides, iodides or carbonates, and its organic salts, such as salts obtained by reaction with carboxylic acids, such as acetate, salicylate, glycolate, lactate, malate, citrate, mandelate, tartrate, etc.

[0114] The term "urea derivative" refers to any compound other than urea (CO(NH2)2) itself, comprising in its chemical formula a carbonyl group bonded simply to two nitrogen atoms, namely: a motif

[0115] Preferably, the urea derivatives are chosen from compounds of formula (I), their salts or their hydrates: (I) O II R4 R2

[0116] in which:

[0117] - RI, R2, R3 and R4 represent, independently: i. a hydrogen atom or ii. a linear or branched lower alkyl or alkenyl radical, cyclic or acyclic in the Ci-C5 range; a Ci-C5 alkoxy radical; a C6-Ci8> aryl radical; a 5- to 8-membered heterocyclic radical; these radicals being optionally substituted by a radical selected from the following: hydroxyl, (di) (Ci-C4)(alkyl)amino such as dimethylamino, carboxyl, halogen, C6-Ci8> aryl, carboxamide and N-methylcarboxamide;

[0118] it being understood that:

[0119] - when RI, R2 and R3 represent a hydrogen atom, R4 can designate a carboxamide radical, methoxy, ethoxy, 1,2,4-triazolyl, cyclopentyl, (Ci-C6)alkylcarbonyl such as acetyl, or (Ci-C6)alkoxycarbonyl such as methoxycarbonyl or ethoxycarbonyl, -CO-CH=CH-COOH, phenyl optionally substituted with a chlorine atom or a hydroxyl radical, benzyl or 2,5-dioxo-4-imidazolidinyl;

[0120] - when RI and R3 represent a hydrogen atom, R2 can represent an atom of hydrogen or a methyl or ethyl radical and R4 may represent an acetyl radical;

[0121] - when R1=R2=H, R3 and R4 can form, with the nitrogen atom on which they are bonded, a piperidine ring, 3-methylpyrazole, 3,5-dimethylpyrazole or a maleimide ring; and

[0122] - RI and R2 as well as R3 and R4 can form, with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a imidazole cycle.

[0123] Examples of urea derivatives of formula (I) include:

[0124] - methylurea;

[0125] - ethylurea;

[0126] - propylurea;

[0127] - n-butylurea;

[0128] - dry butylurea;

[0129] - isobutylurea;

[0130] - tert-butylurea;

[0131] - cyclopentylurea;

[0132] - ethoxyurea;

[0133] - hydroxyethylurea;

[0134] - N-(2-hydroxypropyl)urea;

[0135] - N-(3-hydroxypropyl)urea;

[0136] - N-(2-dimethylaminopropyl)urea;

[0137] - N-(3-dimethylaminopropyl)urea;

[0138] - l-(3-hydroxyphenyl)urea;

[0139] - benzylurea;

[0140] - N-carbamoylmaleamide;

[0141] - N-carbamoylmaleamic acid;

[0142] - piperidinecarboxamide;

[0143] - 1,2,4-triazol-4-ylurea;

[0144] - hydantoic acid;

[0145] - methyl allophanate;

[0146] - ethyl allophanate;

[0147] - acetylurea;

[0148] - hydroxyethyl urea

[0149] - 2-(hydroxyethyl)ethyleneurea;

[0150] - diallylurea;

[0151] - chloroethylurea;

[0152] - N,N-dimethylurea;

[0153] - N,N-diethylurea;

[0154] - N,N-dipropylurea;

[0155] - cyclopentyl-l-methylurea;

[0156] - 1,3-dimethylurea;

[0157] - 1,3-diethylurea;

[0158] - 1,3-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)urea;

[0159] - 1,3-bis(2-hydroxypropyl)urea;

[0160] - 1,3-bis(3-hydroxypropyl)urea;

[0161] - 1,3-dipropylurea;

[0162] - ethyl-3-propylurea;

[0163] - sec-butyl-3-methylurea;

[0164] - isobutyl-3-methylurea;

[0165] - cyclopentyl-3-methylurea;

[0166] - N-acetyl-N'-methylurea;

[0167] - trimethylurea;

[0168] - butyl-3,3-dimethylurea;

[0169] - tetramethylurea and

[0170] - benzylurea.

[0171] Preferably, urea or urea derivatives as an additional hydrophilic active agent are chosen from urea and hydroxyethylurea and, more preferably, hydroxyethylurea.

[0172] Preferably, the additional hydrophilic active agent is selected from arginine, hydroxyethylurea, niacinamide, biotin, caffeine and combinations thereof.

[0173] The additional hydrophilic active agent(s) may be present in the composition in an amount of 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, preferably 1% by weight or more, preferably even more 2% by weight or more, and in particular 3% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0174] The additional hydrophilic active agent(s) may be present in the composition in an amount of 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, more preferably 12% by weight or less, and even more preferably 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0175] The additional hydrophilic active agent(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. •#Oil

[0176] The composition used for the cosmetic process according to the present invention may comprise at least one oil. Two or more types of oils may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of oil or a combination of different types of oils may be used.

[0177] Here, "oil" refers to a fatty compound or oily substance that is in the form of a liquid or a paste (not solid), or solid at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). The oil used in the present invention is preferably in the form of a liquid or a paste at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As oils, those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0178] Among the oils that can be used are: volatile or non-volatile oils; these oils, which can be hydrocarbon-based oils, in particular of animal or vegetable origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, fatty alcohols or mixtures thereof.

[0179] For the purposes of the present invention, "hydrocarbon-based oil" or "hydrocarbon oil" is understood to mean an oil containing primarily hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, and / or phosphorus atoms. Hydrocarbon-based oil does not contain any silicon atoms.

[0180] For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "silicone oil" is intended to mean an oil comprising at least one silicon atom and in particular, at least one Si-O group.

[0181] For the purposes of the present invention, "polar oil" means an oil whose solubility parameter ôa at 25 °C is different from 0 (J / cm3)1 / 2.

[0182] In particular, "polar oil" means an oil whose chemical structure is essentially formed, or even made up, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and comprising at least one highly electronegative heteroatom such as an oxygen, nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus atom.

[0183] The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in Hansen's three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article by CM Hansen: The three-dimensional solubility parameters, J. Paint Technol., 39, 105 (1967).

[0184] According to this Hansen space:

[0185] - ôD characterizes the London dispersion forces resulting from the formation of induced dipoles during molecular impacts;

[0186] - ôp characterizes the Debye interaction forces between permanent dipoles as well as Keesom interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles;

[0187] - ôh characterizes specific interaction forces (such as hydrogen bonds, acid / base bonds, donor / acceptor bonds and similar);

[0188] - ôa is determined by the equation: ôa= (ôp2 + ôh2)' / 2.

[0189] The parameters ôp, ôh, ôD and ôa are expressed in (J / cm3)' / 2.

[0190] Preferably, the polar oils used according to the present invention have an ôa between 4 and 9.1, preferably an ôa between 6 and 9.1, and even better between 7.3 and 9.1.

[0191] The oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil or the like; a polar oil such as a vegetable or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil or a mixture thereof.

[0192] The oil may be chosen from the group consisting of oils of vegetable or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils and fatty alcohols.

[0193] Examples of vegetable oils include linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil and mixtures thereof.

[0194] Examples of animal oils include, for example, squalene and squalane.

[0195] Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils and artificial triglycerides.

[0196] The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, Ci-C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids, and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, Ci-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

[0197] In one embodiment of the present invention, for monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol and acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.

[0198] The ester oils of monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols can be represented by the formula RiCOOR2 in which R, represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid, preferably a linear fatty acid comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, and better still, from 10 to 20 carbon atoms, and R represents a hydrocarbon chain, especially branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and better still from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, provided that Ri+ R2 is greater than or equal to 10.

[0199] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isonanoate, isononyl isonanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate may be mentioned.

[0200] It is preferable that the ester oil be chosen from among fatty acid ester oils.

[0201] Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols, as well as esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or Tricarboxylic and unsweetened dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols in C4-C26 can also be used.

[0202] Reference may in particular be made to the following compounds: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylethylethylyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neotyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate.

[0203] As ester oils, esters and sugar diesters of C6-C30 fatty acids, and preferably C12-C22, may be used. It is recalled that the term "sugar" refers to compounds based on oxygen-bearing hydrocarbons containing several alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups, and comprising at least four carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.

[0204] Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose and their derivatives, in particular alkylated derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.

[0205] Sugar esters of fatty acids may be selected in particular from the group comprising esters or mixtures of esters of the sugars described above and of linear or branched fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated in C6-C30> and preferably in C2-C22. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0206] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

[0207] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.

[0208] Examples of preferred ester oils include, for instance, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyle propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, ethylhexyl 2-octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrithyl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate and mixtures thereof.

[0209] Examples of ether oils include dialkyl ethers such as those represented by the following formula:

[0210] R'-O-R2

[0211] in which

[0212] each of the groups R1 and R2 independently designates a linear, branched or cyclic C4 C 24 alkyl group, preferably a C6_Ci8 alkyl group and, more preferably, a C8.Ci2 alkyl group. H may preferably be that R1 and R2 are identical.

[0213] Examples of linear alkyl groups include butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl, tridecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl, eicosyl, behenyl, docosyl, tricosyl and tetracosyl.

[0214] Examples of branched alkyl groups include 1-methylpropyl, 2-methylpropyl, β-butyl, 1,1-dimethylpropyl, 3-methylhexyl, 5-methylhexyl, 1-ethylhexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, 1-butylpentyl, 5-methyloctyl, 1-ethylhexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, 1-butylpentyl, 5-methyloctyl, 1-ethylhexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, 1-butylpentyl, 5-methyloctyl, 2-butyloctyl, isotridecyl, 2-pentylnonyl, 2-hexyldecyl, isostearyl, 2-heptylundecyl, 2-octyldodecyl, 1,3-dimethylbutyl, and a group l-(l-methylethyl)-2-methylpropyl, a 1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl group, a 3,5,5-trimethylhexyl group, an l-(2-methylpropyl)-3-methylbutyl group, a 3,7-dimethyloctyl group and a 2-(l,3,3-trimethylbutyl)-5,7,7-trimethyloctyl group.

[0215] Examples of cyclic alkyl groups include a cyclohexyl group, a 3-methylcyclohexyl group and a 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl group.

[0216] Examples of artificial triglycerides include, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate) and glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate / linolenate).

[0217] Examples of silicone oils include, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenopolysiloxane and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.

[0218] Preferably, the silicone oil is selected from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.

[0219] These silicone oils can also be organomodified. The organomodified silicones that can be used according to the present invention are silicone oils as defined above and comprise in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group. Organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968) by Walter Noll, Academy Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0220] When volatile, silicones are particularly chosen from those having a boiling point between 60 °C and 260 °C, and even more particularly from:

[0221] (i) Cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising 3 to 7, and preferably 4 to 5, silicon atoms. Examples include octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia; decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia; and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane, sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof. Also included are dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane cyclocopolymers, such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109, sold by Union Carbide, with the formula: — If - O — and with- D' ■ - If - O — | I CH„

[0222] We can also mention mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-l,r-bis(2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane; and

[0223] (ii) Linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5 x 10⁶ m² / s at 25 °C. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane, sold in particular under the name SH 200 by Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27–32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of silicones is measured at 25 °C according to ASTM 445 Annex C.

[0224] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes can also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from among the polydialkylsiloxanes, among which the main examples are polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl terminal groups.

[0225] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following commercial products may be cited, without limitation:

[0226] - Silbione® oils from ranges 47 and 70 047 or Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia, for example oil 70 047 V 500 000;

[0227] - the oils from the Mirasil® range sold by the company Rhodia;

[0228] - Dow Corning's 200 series oils, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60,000 mm² / s and

[0229] - Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils in the SF range (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.

[0230] We can also mention polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol terminal groups known as dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils in the 48 range from the Rhodia company.

[0231] Among silicones containing aryl groups, we can mention polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as phenyl silicone oil.

[0232] The phenyl silicone oil may be selected from the phenyl silicones of the following formula:

[0233] in which

[0234] Ri in Rio are, independently of each other, Ci-C30 hydrocarbon-based radicals, preferably Ci-C12 hydrocarbon-based radicals, and more preferably Ci-C6 hydrocarbon-based radicals, saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched, in particular methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl radicals, and

[0235] m, n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers from 0 to 900 inclusive, preferably from 0 to 500 inclusive, and more preferably from 0 to 100 inclusive,

[0236] provided that the sum n+m+q is different from 0.

[0237] Examples that may be cited include products sold under the following names:

[0238] - Silbione® oils from the 70 641 range by Rhodia;

[0239] - the oils from the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 ranges from Rhodia;

[0240] - Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid oil from Dow Corning;

[0241] - silicones from Bayer's PK range, such as product PK20;

[0242] - certain oils in the General Electric SF range, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

[0243] As a phenyl silicone oil, phenyl trimethicone (Ri to R10 are a methyl;p, qetn = 0;m=l in the formula above) is preferable.

[0244] Organomodified liquid silicones may, in particular, contain polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups. Examples include KF-6017 silicone offered by Shin-Etsu, and Silwet® L722 and L77 oils from Union Carbide.

[0245] Hydrocarbon oils may be selected from:

[0246] - lower linear or branched, possibly cyclic, C6-Ci6 alkanes. Examples include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and isoparaffins, for example isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane;

[0247] - linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, hydrogenated polydecenes and polyisobutenes such as Parleam® and squalane; and

[0248] - mixtures of alkanes, for example, C9-12 Alkane, C10-13 Alkane, C13-14 Alkane, C13-15 Alkane, C14-17 Alkane, C14-19 Alkane, C15-19 Alkane, C15-23 Alkane, C18-21 Alkane, C8-9 Alkane / Cycloalkane, C9-10 Alkane / Cycloalkane, C9-11 Alkane / Cycloalkane, C9-16 Alkane / Cycloalkane, C10-12 Alkane / Cycloalkane, Cl 1-14 Alkane / Cycloalkane, Cl 1-15 Alkane / Cycloalkane, C12-13 Alkane / Cycloalkane.

[0249] Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils include, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, Vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane and decene / butene copolymer and mixtures thereof.

[0250] The term "fatty" in fatty alcohol means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols that have 4 or more carbon atoms, preferably 6 or more, and more preferably 12 or more, are encompassed within the scope of fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohols can be saturated or unsaturated. Fatty alcohols can be linear or branched.

[0251] The fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH in which R is selected from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R may be selected from alkyl groups in the form C2-C2O and alkenyl groups in the form C2-C2O. R may or may not be substituted by at least one hydroxyl group.

[0252] The fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH in which R is a saturated or unsaturated linear radical containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms.

[0253] The fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH in which R is a saturated or unsaturated branched radical containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0254] Examples of fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonylic alcohol, erucyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0255] It is preferable that the fatty alcohol be a saturated fatty alcohol. Thus, the fatty alcohol can be chosen from saturated or unsaturated C6-C3o alcohols, linear or branched, preferably from saturated C6-C3o alcohols, linear or branched, and more preferably from saturated Ci2-C2o alcohols, linear or branched.

[0256] The term "saturated fatty alcohol" here refers to an alcohol having a long saturated aliphatic carbon chain. Preferably, the saturated fatty alcohol should be selected from any saturated C6-C30 fatty alcohols, linear or branched. Among saturated C6-C30 fatty alcohols, linear or branched, saturated C2-C20 fatty alcohols, linear or branched, may preferably be used. Any saturated C6-C20 fatty alcohols, linear or branched, may be used more preferably. Branched C6-C20 fatty alcohols may be used even more preferably.

[0257] Examples of saturated fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, or a mixture thereof (e.g., cetearyl alcohol), as well as behenyl alcohol, may be used as saturated fatty alcohols.

[0258] It is also preferable to choose the oil from oils with a molecular weight of less than 600 g / mol.

[0259] Preferably, the oil has a low molecular weight such as less than 600°g / mol, selected from ester oils with a short hydrocarbon chain or chains (C1-C12) (for example, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl isononanoate and ethylhexyl palmitate), silicone oils (for example, volatile silicones such as cyclohexasiloxane), hydrocarbon oils (for example, isododecane, isohexadecane and squalane), branched and / or unsaturated fatty alcohol type oils (C12-C30) such as octyldodecanol and oleyl alcohol and ether oils such as dicaprylic ether.

[0260] It is preferable to choose the oil from among polar oils and, more preferably, from among ester oils, fatty alcohols and one of their combinations. It is further preferred that the oil comprise both ester oils and fatty alcohols, in particular monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols represented by the formula RiCOOR2 where R1 represents the residue of a linear fatty acid comprising from 10 to 20 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a branched hydrocarbon chain containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms and the fatty alcohol having the structure R-OH where R is chosen from among saturated branched radicals containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and, more preferably, from 12 to 20 carbon atoms.

[0261] It may be preferable for the oil to be chosen from ester oils and fatty alcohols.

[0262] In a preferred embodiment, the oil is selected from ester oils of monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, such as ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, and combinations thereof, and fatty alcohols having 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, alcohol oleyl, linoleyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonylic alcohol, erucyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

[0263] The quantity of oil or oils in the composition may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 2% by weight or more, and more preferably 3% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0264] The quantity of oil or oils in the composition may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 12% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0265] The quantity of oil or oils in the composition may range from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 3% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. •#Surfactant

[0266] The composition used in the process according to the present invention may comprise at least one surfactant. Two or more types of surfactants may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of surfactant or a combination of different types of surfactants may be used.

[0267] The surfactant may be chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or non-ionic surfactants, used alone or in mixtures.

[0268] Preferably, the surfactant is chosen from among non-ionic surfactants. Thus, the composition may include at least one non-ionic surfactant.

[0269] Examples of nonionic surfactants usable in the compositions of the invention may include polyethoxylated fatty alcohols or polyglycerolated fatty alcohols, such as ethylene oxide adducts with lauryl alcohol, in particular those containing 9 to 50 oxyethylene motifs (Laureth-9 to Laureth-50, according to the INCI names), in particular Laureth-9; esters of polyols and a fatty acid having a saturated or unsaturated chain comprising, for example, 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and their oxyalkylated derivatives, i.e. comprising oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene motifs, such as esters of glycerol and a C8-C24 fatty acid, and their oxyalkylated derivatives, in particular polyoxyethylenated glyceryl stearate (mono-, di- and / or tristearate), for example PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate;sugar and C8-C24 fatty acid esters and their oxyalkylated derivatives, such as polyethoxylated sorbitol esters of C8-C24 fatty acids, in particular Polysorbate 80, such as the product marketed as "TWEEN 80" by Croda, and Polysorbate 21, such as the product marketed as "TWEEN 21" by Croda; sugar and C8-C24 fatty alcohol ethers, such as caprylyl / capryl glucoside; polyoxyethylenated alkyl ethers; polyoxyethylenated oxypropylene alkyl ethers; acid alkanol amides; fats; alkylamine oxides; alkyl polyglycosides and silicone surfactants, such as polydimethylsiloxane containing oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene groups, for example, PEG-10 dimethicone, bis-PEG / PPG-14 / 14 dimethicone, bis-PEG / PPG-20 / 20 dimethicone and PEG / PPG-20 / 6 dimethicone, and alkyl dimethicone copolyols, in particular those having an alkyl radical of 10 to 22 carbon atoms and having 2 to 50 oxyethylene groups and 2 to 50 oxypropylene groups, such as cetyl dimethicone copolyol (INCI name: Cetyl PEG / PPG-10 / 1 Dimethicone), and lauryl dimethicone copolyol (INCI name: Lauryl PEG / PPG-18 / 18 Methicone); and a polyglyceryl ester of fatty acid such as polyglyceryl-4 caprate, polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate, polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate, polyglyceryl-6 dioleate, polyglyceryl-6 caprylate, polyglyceryl-2 oleate and polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate and mixtures thereof.

[0270] In addition, by way of non-ionic surfactants, alkyl polyglycosides, represented by the following general formula (1), may be mentioned:

[0271] RO-(G)X(1)

[0272] wherein R represents a branched and / or unsaturated alkyl radical comprising 14 to 24 carbon atoms, G represents a reduced sugar comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, and x denotes a value from 1 to 10, and preferably from 1 to 4, and G denotes in particular glucose, fructose, or galactose. Examples of alkyl polyglycosides of this type include alkyl polyglucosides (G = glucose in formula (I)), and in particular compounds of formula (I) in which R more particularly represents an oleyl radical (unsaturated Ci8 radical) or isostearyl radical (saturated Ci8 radical), G denotes glucose, and x is a value from 1 to 2, in particular isostearyl glycoside, oleyl glucoside, and mixtures thereof.This alkyl polyglucoside can be used as a mixture with a co-emulsifier, particularly a fatty alcohol, and especially one having the same fatty chain as the alkyl polyglucoside, i.e., comprising 14 to 24 carbon atoms and having a branched and / or unsaturated chain. For example, isostearyl alcohol when the alkyl polyglucoside is isostearyl glucoside, and oleyl alcohol when the alkyl polyglucoside is oleyl glucoside. Examples include the mixture of isostearyl glucoside and isostearyl alcohol, sold under the name Montanov WO 18 by Seppic, and also the mixture of octyldodecanol and octyldodecyl xyloside sold under the name Fludanov 20X by Seppic.

[0273] The amount of the surfactant(s) in the composition may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.3% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0274] The quantity of the surfactant(s) in the composition may be 3% by weight or less, preferably 2% by weight or less, and more preferably 1.5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0275] The quantity of the surfactant(s) in the composition may range from 0.1% to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.3% to 2% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. •#Adjuvant

[0276] The composition used in the process according to the present invention may further comprise one or more adjuvants commonly used in the fields of cosmetics and dermatology, selected from a physiologically acceptable medium, in particular water-soluble organic solvents in addition to (b) ingredient; cationic, anionic, non-ionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers or mixtures thereof, for example, cationic polysaccharides; gelling agents; thickeners; penetrating agents; pH adjusters; anti-dandruff agents; antioxidants; moisturizers; emollients; lipophilic active agents; free radical phagocytes; suspending agents; sequestering agents; buffers; perfumes; emollients; dispersing agents; colorants and / or pigments; film-forming agents; stabilizers; preservatives; co-preservatives; opacifying agents;essential oils; and their mixtures.

[0277] Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional adjuvant or adjuvants added to the composition so that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the composition according to the present invention are not, or are not substantially, negatively affected by the envisaged addition.

[0278] The adjuvants may be present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging preferably from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0279] The composition used in the process according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential and optional ingredients above in accordance with any of the processes which are well known to the person skilled in the art.

[0280] For example, the composition according to the present invention can be prepared by a process comprising the following steps: i. soluble ingredients, such as deionized water, hydrophilic active agent(s), water-soluble alcohols and optional water-soluble ingredients, such as surfactants, if applicable, are added to a beaker at room temperature; ii. The mixture from step (i) is stirred until all the ingredients are completely dissolved; iii. other ingredients, such as oils, are added to the mixture from step (ii); and iv. The mixture from step (iii) is stirred until all the ingredients are completely dissolved.

[0281] According to a preferred embodiment, the process according to the invention is a process for treating keratinous fibers, such as hair, and / or the scalp, comprising a step of applying to the keratinous fibers and / or the scalp a composition comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: a. from 0.1% to 20% by weight of (a) at least one hydrophilic active agent selected from C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-n-propane-2-one; C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-n-propane-2-one; C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane; C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane; l-(C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane; l-(C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane; l-(C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane; l-(C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane; 3'-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)propane-2'-one; 3'-(acetamido-C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)propane-2'-one; l-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane; l-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane; as well as their cosmetically acceptable salts, their solvates such as hydrates and their optical isomers; b. at least one water-soluble alcohol in an amount less than 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, chosen from at least one monoalcohol, preferably in an amount ranging from 5% to 35% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 30% by weight, and even more preferably from 15% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; c. from 15% to 85% water by weight.

[0282] According to a preferred embodiment, the process according to the invention is a process for treating keratinous fibers, such as hair, and / or the scalp, comprising a step of applying to the keratinous fibers and / or the scalp a composition comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: a. 5% to 12.5% ​​by weight of (a) at least one hydrophilic active agent selected from C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane and C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, and more preferably C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane; b. at least one water-soluble alcohol in an amount less than 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, chosen from at least a monoalcohol, at least one diol, and at least one polyol having three or more hydroxyl groups, in particular triol, in combination, preferably a combination of at least one monoalcohol in an amount from 5% to 35% by weight, at least one diol in an amount from 3% to 25% by weight, and at least one polyol having three or more hydroxyl groups, in particular triol, in an amount from 0.3% to 7% by weight, more preferably a combination of at least one monoalcohol in an amount from 10% to 30% by weight, at least one diol in an amount from 5% to 20% by weight, and at least one polyol having three or more hydroxyl groups, in particular triol, in an amount from 0.5% to 5% by weight, and more preferably a combination of at least one monoalcohol in an amount from 15% to 25% by weight, at less one diol in an amount of 10% to 17% by weight, and at least one polyol having three or more hydroxyl groups, in particular triol,in an amount of 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; c. 35% to 55% water. [Optional additional step]

[0283] - Additional earlier step

[0284] The process according to the present invention may include an optional step of cleaning the keratinous fibers, such as hair, and / or scalp before applying the composition. The cleaning step may be carried out, for example, by shampooing the keratinous fibers, followed by rinsing the keratinous fibers. The cleaning step is preferably carried out once before performing the process of the present invention.

[0285] After rinsing, the keratin fibers and / or scalp may be dried. The methods for drying the keratin fibers and / or scalp are not particularly limited and may include towel drying and blow-drying with a hairdryer.

[0286] When the process according to the present invention includes the step of cleaning the keratin fibers and / or scalp before the application of the composition, the keratin fibers and / or scalp may be wet or dried, preferably wet, just before the step of applying the composition to the keratin fibers and / or scalp is carried out.

[0287] - Additional later step

[0288] The process according to the present invention may or may not include a step of rinsing the applied composition from the keratin fibers and / or scalp after the application step. Since the composition used in the process according to the present invention is preferably intended to be used as a composition In leave-in cosmetics, to improve the cosmetic effect, the process preferably does not include a step of rinsing the applied composition to remove it from the keratin fibers and / or scalp immediately after the application step.

[0289] The present invention may include an additional subsequent step of drying the keratin fibers and / or the scalp. The methods for drying the keratin fibers and / or the scalp are not particularly limited and may include towel drying and blow-drying with a hairdryer.

[0290] In one embodiment of the present invention, after application of the composition, the keratin fibers and / or the scalp can be left as is for a certain time; typically from 1 second to 30 minutes, preferably from 30 seconds to 20 minutes, and more preferably from 1 minute to 15 minutes, if necessary, in order to allow the composition to penetrate the keratin fibers and / or the scalp. [Composition]

[0291] The present invention also relates to a composition for treating keratinous fibers, such as hair and / or scalp, comprising: a. at least one hydrophilic active agent selected from among the C-glycoside compounds; b. at least one water-soluble alcohol in an amount less than 40% weight relative to the total weight of the composition and c. water in a quantity of more than 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0292] The composition according to the present invention may be a cosmetic composition. In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the present invention is intended for topical application, in particular on keratinous fibers, preferably the hair and / or scalp.

[0293] The composition used according to the present invention is preferably intended for use as a leave-on cosmetic composition. The term "leave-on" refers to a composition that is not intended to be washed off / rinsed or removed immediately after application. A leave-on composition differs from a rinse-off composition, which is intended to be rinsed off after use on keratinous materials and / or the scalp.

[0294] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composition is intended for the care and / or conditioning of keratinous fibers, preferably of the hair and / or scalp.

[0295] The composition according to the present invention can take various forms, such as a solution, a gel, a lotion, a serum, a suspension, a dispersion, a fluid, a milk, a paste, a cream, a foam, an emulsion (O / W or W / H form), Multiple emulsions (e.g., W / O / O, polyol / W / O, and W / O / O), and the like. Preferably, the composition according to the present invention is a solution, in particular a homogeneous solution. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "homogeneous" is understood to mean a composition consisting of a single phase.

[0296] The ingredients (a) to (c) in the composition are the same as those explained in the process according to the present invention above. Furthermore, the composition according to the present invention may include other optional ingredients than those explained in the process according to the present invention above. Moreover, the composition according to the present invention may be prepared as explained in the process according to the present invention above. EXAMPLES

[0297] The present invention will be described in more detail by means of examples which, however, should not be interpreted as limiting the scope of the present invention.

[0298] [Process according to Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 and 21

[0299] The process according to Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2 has been carried out according to the following protocol.

[0300] Three strands of hair (1 g, 27 cm) were prepared for each experiment. Each strand of hair was washed with ordinary shampoo as shown in Table 1. After shampooing, the strand of hair was rinsed with water and then towel-dried. 0.20 g of each of the compositions shown in Table 2 was applied to each strand of hair and left for 5 minutes before being dried with a hairdryer.

[0301] Each of the compositions used in the processes according to Examples 1 and 2 (Ex. 1 and 2) and Comparative Examples 1 and 2 (Ex. 1 and 2) was prepared by mixing the ingredients listed in Table 2 below. The numerical values ​​of the quantities of ingredients presented in Table 1 are all based on the "% by weight" as raw material, relative to the total weight of the composition. The hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol product of MEXORYL SCN® was obtained from NOVEAL. [Assessment] (Sensory assessments)

[0302] Sensory assessments were carried out concerning the "squeaking during application" of each of the compositions, "the lightness of the coating / the feeling of cleanliness" and "the uniformity of the coating" on strands of hair dried by five experts according to the following criteria with a five-level scale (very bad, bad, fair, good and very good).

[0303] The scores thus obtained were averaged. The results are presented in the following Table 2.

[0304] [Table 1]Table 1. Composition of ordinary shampoo. Ingredients % by weight Hexylene glycol 1 Sodium chloride 1 Coco-betaine 9 Sodium laureth sulfate 15 Polyquaternium-10 0.3 Sodium benzoate 0.5 Salicylic acid 0.2 Citric acid qs to pH 5.3 Sodium hydroxide qs to pH 5.3 Deionized water qs per 100

[0305] [Table 2]Table 2 Ingredients Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. comp. 1 Ex. comp. 2 Water Qs per 100 Qs per 100 6.4 - Ethanol 20 20 Qs per 100 Qs per 100 Glycerin 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 Propane-1,3-diol 6 6 6 6 Pentylene glycol 8.5 8.5 8.5 8.5 Hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol 8.7 8.7 8.7 8.7 Arginine - 0.5 - - Polysorbate 21 1 1 1 1 Oleyl alcohol 3 3 3 3 Isopropyl myristate 5.5 5.5 5.5 5.5 Evaluation Squeaking during application Very good Very good Poor Very bad Lightness of coating / Good Good Poor Poor Feeling of cleanliness, Uniformity of coating: Good, Very good, Fair, Fair

[0306] As can be seen from the results presented in Table 2, the process according to Examples 1 and 2, which used the composition comprising at least one hydrophilic active agent selected from the C-glycoside compounds (Hydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol) and a specific amount of water-soluble alcohol and water, provided a better sensation during application to the hair, and was able to provide the hair with a better post-coating sensation, such as improved coating lightness and a feeling of cleanliness as well as better coating uniformity.

[0307] On the other hand, the process according to Comparative Examples 1 and 2, which did not use compositions comprising the specific amount of water-soluble alcohol and water, caused greater squeaking sensations during application to the hair, and the sensory appearance of the hair after coating was not very good with regard to the lightness of the coating and the feeling of cleanliness as well as the uniformity of the coating compared to the process according to the invention.

[0308] Consequently, it can be concluded that the process according to the present invention is much preferable for the care and / or conditioning of keratinous fibers, in particular of hair, and / or scalp.

Claims

Demands

1. Process for treating keratinous fibers, such as hair and / or scalp, comprising a step of applying to the keratinous fibers and / or scalp a composition comprising: (a) at least one hydrophilic active agent selected from C-glycoside compounds; (b) at least one water-soluble alcohol in an amount less than 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and (c) water in an amount more than 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. The process according to claim 1, wherein (a) the C-glycoside compound is selected from C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one; C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one; C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane; C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane; l-(C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane; l-(C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane; l-(C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane; l-(C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane; 3'-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)propan-2'-one; 3'-(acetamido-C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)propan-2'-one; l-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane; 1-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane; as well as their cosmetically acceptable salts, their solvates such as hydrates, and their optical isomers, preferably chosen from C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane and C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, and more preferably C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane.

3. A process according to any one of claims 1 to 2, wherein the (b) water-soluble alcohol is selected from the monoalcohol(s) and polyol(s), more preferably, the (b) water-soluble alcohol is selected from the monoalcohol(s), diol(s) and polyol(s) having three or more hydroxyl groups, in particular triol.

4. A process according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the quantity of (b) water-soluble alcohol comprises at least one monoalcohol and the monoalcohol(s) is / are present in an amount from 5% to 35% by weight, preferably from 10% to 30% % by weight and more preferably, from 15% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. A process according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the (b) water-soluble alcohol comprises at least one polyol and the polyol(s) is / are present in the composition in an amount from 5% to 30% by weight, preferably from 10% to 25% by weight and more preferably from 15% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. A process according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein (b) the water-soluble alcohol is selected from a combination of at least one monoalcohol in an amount from 5% to 35% by weight, at least one diol in an amount from 3% to 25% by weight, and at least one polyol having three or more hydroxyl groups, in particular triol, in an amount from 0.3% to 7% by weight, preferably a combination of at least one monoalcohol in an amount from 10% to 30% by weight, at least one diol in an amount from 5% to 20% by weight and at least one polyol having three or more hydroxyl groups, in particular triol, in an amount from 0.5% to 5% by weight, and more preferably a combination of at least one monoalcohol in an amount from 15% to 25% by weight, of at least one diol in an amount ranging from 10% to 17% by weight, and of at least one polyol having three or more hydroxyl groups, in particular triol,in an amount ranging from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. A process according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the amount of (c) water ranges from 15% to 85% by weight, preferably from 20% to 75% by weight, more preferably from 25% to 65% by weight, even more preferably from 30% to 60% by weight, and preferably from 35% to 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. A process according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the composition further comprises at least one additional hydrophilic active agent.

9. A process according to any one of claims 1 to 8, which is for the care and / or conditioning of hair and / or scalp.

10. A process according to any one of claims 1 to 9, for the treatment of keratinous fibers, such as hair, and / or scalp treatment, comprising an application step on the keratinous fibers and / or scalp of a composition comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: (a) from 0.1% to 20% by weight of (a) at least one hydrophilic active agent selected from C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-n-propane-2-one; C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-n-propane-2-one; C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane; C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane; l-(C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane; l-(C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane; l-(C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane; l-(C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane; 3'-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)propane-2'-one; 3'-(acetamido-C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)propane-2'-one; l-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane; l-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane and their cosmetically acceptable salts, their solvates such as hydrates and their optical isomers; (b) at least one water-soluble alcohol in an amount less than 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, selected from at least one monoalcohol, preferably in an amount ranging from 5% to 35% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 30% by weight, and even more preferably from 15% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; (c) from 15% to 85% by weight of water.