FAST-ABSORBENT COSMETIC SUNSCREEN COMPOSITION

Abstract

The invention relates to a cosmetic sun protection composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, suitable for topical application to the skin, comprising water, at least one oily emollient, a mixture of liposoluble organic sunscreens, scleroglucan gum, and an emulsifying system containing at least myristyl glucoside. This composition has a light texture and is rapidly absorbed by the skin.

Description

Title of the invention: RAPID-ABSORBENT COSMETIC SUNSCREEN COMPOSITION

[0001] The present invention falls within the field of cosmetic compositions for sun protection.

[0002] More particularly, the present invention relates to a cosmetic sun protection composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, based on liposoluble organic sun filters, as well as the use of such a cosmetic composition for sun protection of the skin.

[0003] TECHNICAL CONTEXT

[0004] The field of photoprotection is a major public health issue to prevent skin damage from overexposure to the sun.

[0005] The potentially harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation on the skin are well known, and a multitude of sun protection products, commonly called sunscreens, are marketed to prevent these effects. Skin damage is mainly induced by ultraviolet radiation (UVA and / or UVB), but also by visible light, including high-energy blue visible light, and infrared radiation, through damage to macromolecules leading to lesions of deoxyribonucleic acid (DNA), oxidative stress, lipid peroxidation, and degradation of the dermal matrix.

[0006] Sunscreen products commonly available on the market are typically in the form of emulsions, which vary in their pleasantness to use. One of the drawbacks of the vast majority of these products is the sticky residue and white cast they leave on the skin, which consumers find unsightly, particularly those with a dark to very dark skin phototype.

[0007] Growing awareness of the dangers of solar radiation is prompting more and more consumers to use products containing sun protection. Their expectations of these products are also increasing: consumers are increasingly seeking sunscreens that offer the same level of protection but with improved sensory properties and the most discreet finish possible, particularly so that the sunscreen can be used in conjunction with makeup products that consumers typically use in their daily routine.

[0008] Recent technologies based on microencapsulated sunscreens, or in the form of silicone-based emulsions, have made it possible to obtain compositions with a fluid texture, lightweight, and claiming faster absorption by the skin. However, these formulas are either complex and expensive to manufacture, or they use controversial substances.

[0009] The present invention aims to provide a composition for sun protection, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, which has a sun protection performance as high as prior art compositions, this performance being preferably obtained by means of the smallest possible number of sun filters, and which meets current consumer requirements, in particular: good ease of distribution on the skin, high speed of absorption by the skin, and no sticky residues and white marks on the skin, i.e. an invisible finish.

[0010] Additional objectives of the invention are that this composition generally has good sensory qualities, and in particular that it provides a feeling of freshness; and that it preferably has a light and fluid texture.

[0011] The invention further aims to achieve these results without compromising the stability of the composition over time, without increasing its cost price compared to prior art emulsion compositions, and without the need to incorporate controversial substances.

[0012] DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0013] Surprisingly and unexpectedly, the inventors discovered that these objectives can be achieved by a combination, in an oil-in-water emulsion composition, particularly one with a high water content, of specific liposoluble sunscreens, a specific emulsifying agent and a similarly specific gelling agent.

[0014] Thus, according to a first aspect of the invention, a cosmetic sun protection composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion is proposed, suitable for topical application to the skin, and comprising: - water, - at least one oily emollient, - a mixture of liposoluble organic sun filters, - an emulsifying system containing at least myristyl glucoside, the myristyl glucoside being included in the composition in a content greater than 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, - and scleroglucan gum, which plays a role in the composition as a gelling agent.

[0015] The composition according to the invention is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, containing an aqueous phase and an oily phase, the oily phase being dispersed homogeneously, in the form of fine droplets, in the aqueous phase which is continuous.

[0016] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least 45% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0017] The composition according to the invention, meeting the above characteristics, is advantageously stable, that is to say, no phase separation is observed over time between the aqueous and oily phases that constitute it; it is invisible on the skin, spreads easily, and is rapidly absorbed. These advantages can also be obtained even when the composition contains a high content of liposoluble sunscreens, sufficient to ensure optimal high sun protection for the consumer.

[0018] The composition according to the invention also advantageously has a very soft touch and a gel-cream texture.

[0019] Gel-cream products are known in themselves and are characterized by the fact that they spread easily on the skin and give it a feeling of freshness. These products generally contain a relatively high proportion of a hydrophilic gelling agent, usually xanthan gum. However, the present inventors have observed that the application of a composition as defined by the invention, comprising xanthan gum as a gelling agent, generates sticky residues on the skin. Particularly unexpectedly, such residues do not form on the skin with the composition according to the invention, which contains scleroglucan gum as a gelling agent.

[0020] Scleroglucan gum, with the INCI name Sclerotium gum, also commonly called sclerotium gum, is a natural polysaccharide, produced by bacterial fermentation, in particular by species of the genus Sclerotium such as the species Sclerotium rolfssii.

[0021] The content of this gum in the composition is preferably between 0.1 and 1% by weight, preferably between 0.2 and 0.8%, preferably between 0.2 and 0.6% by weight, and even more preferably between 0.3 and 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0022] In particularly preferred embodiments of the invention, scleroglucan gum is the only gelling agent contained in the composition according to the invention.

[0023] The composition according to the invention may otherwise comprise one or more additional gelling agents, for example selected from the following compounds and their derivatives: guar gum, succinoglucan gum, gellan gum, diutan gum, acacia gum, Caesalpinia spinosa gum, locust bean gum, Tamarindus indica seed gum, pectin, agar agar, xanthan gum, carrageenans, alginates, acrylates, celluloses, or any mixture thereof.

[0024] The total content of gelling agents (including scleroglucan gum) in the composition is then preferably between 0.1 and 1% by weight, preferably between 0.2 and 0.8%, preferably between 0.2 and 0.6% by weight, and even more preferably between 0.3 and 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0025] In particular embodiments of the invention where the composition according to the invention comprises one or more additional gelling agents, scleroglucan gum then preferably represents at least 50%, preferably at least 60%, even more preferably at least 70%, even more preferably at least 80%, and advantageously at least 90%, by weight of the total weight of the gelling agents (including scleroglucan gum). Preferably, the composition is free of xanthan gum.

[0026] In particular embodiments, it is also preferably devoid of alginates, carrageenans, celluloses, acrylates and their derivatives.

[0027] The composition according to the invention is even more preferably free of carbomers.

[0028] In this description, "free of" an ingredient means that the composition contains less than 0.01% by weight, preferably less than 0.001% by weight, of that ingredient, relative to the total weight of the composition, or, even more preferably, that it does not contain that ingredient.

[0029] The composition according to the invention, in addition to having an initial gel-cream texture, making it easy to squeeze and spread on the skin's surface, also exhibits a particularly rapid absorption rate by the skin. In particular, the composition according to the invention liquefies upon application to the skin and is felt to be completely absorbed in less than 5 seconds. The mechanisms underlying such an advantageous result will not be discussed here. However, it can be assumed that the specific choice of the emulsifying agent, myristyl glucoside, the specific choice of the gelling agent, scleroglucan gum, and, in preferred embodiments of the invention, the high water content of the composition, all contribute to this effect.

[0030] The water content of the composition according to the invention is preferably greater than or equal to 45% by weight, preferably between 45 and 70% by weight, in particular between 45 and 65% by weight, or even between 45 and 60% by weight, and for example between 45 and 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0031] The term “solar filter”, as used in this description, classically refers in itself to a substance capable of filtering radiation Sunscreens to protect a surface, typically the skin or hair, against the harmful effects of this radiation.

[0032] Furthermore, "sun protection" is understood to mean protection against the effects of ultraviolet radiation, in particular UVA and / or UVB, and / or blue light. The term "sun protection," as used in this description, encompasses not only protection against the harmful effects of solar radiation, but also against artificial ultraviolet radiation, generated, for example, by tanning lamps. More specifically, sun protection is understood here as preventing, or at least limiting, contact between ultraviolet radiation and / or blue light and the surface to be protected, through mechanisms of absorption and / or reflection and / or scattering of UVA and / or UVB radiation and / or blue light.

[0033] The term “ultraviolet radiation” or “UV radiation”, commonly abbreviated “UV”, refers to solar ultraviolet radiation but also to artificial ultraviolet radiation, generated by tanning lamps for example.

[0034] By "UVA radiation" or simply "UVA", we mean ultraviolet rays having an X wavelength between 320 and 400 nm.

[0035] By "UVB radiation" or simply "UVB", we mean ultraviolet rays having an X wavelength between 290 and 320 nm.

[0036] A sunscreen is described as a "UVA filter" or "UVB filter" depending on whether it filters mostly UVA or UVB.

[0037] Within the scope of the present invention, any conventionally known liposoluble organic sunscreen may be contained in the composition according to the invention. The liposoluble organic sunscreens of the composition according to the invention may thus be, in particular, of the type of triazine derivatives, benzotriazole and phenyl benzotriazole derivatives, dibenzoylmethane derivatives, amino-substituted benzophenone and 2-hydroxybenzophenone derivatives, merocyanine derivatives, para-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, salicylic derivatives, cinnamic derivatives, [3,[3'-diphenylacrylate] derivatives, benzylidene camphor derivatives, anthranilic derivatives, imidazoline derivatives, benzylmalonate derivatives, etc.

[0038] In preferred embodiments of the invention, the mixture of oil-soluble organic sunscreens comprises at least one, preferably several, oil-soluble organic sunscreens selected from diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, ethylhexyl triazone, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, and methoxypropylamino cyclohexenylidene ethoxyethylcyanoacetate. Any combination of two or more of these filters may be contained in the mixture of oil-soluble organic sunscreens of the composition. In particular embodiments of the invention, the mixture of fat-soluble organic sunscreens in the composition contains no other fat-soluble organic sunscreens than those listed. It may otherwise contain additional fat-soluble organic sunscreens.

[0039] In preferred embodiments, the composition according to the invention comprises, in the mixture of fat-soluble organic filters, at least bis-ethylhexyloxyphen ol methoxyphenyl triazine.

[0040] In particular embodiments of the invention, the mixture of liposoluble organic sunscreens of the composition according to the invention comprises at least: - 2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]hexyl benzoate (CAS No.: 302776-68-7; INCI name: Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate), also known as diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate or DHHB, as marketed by BASF under the name Uvinul A Plus®. This is a fat-soluble UVA filter with a maximum absorption wavelength Xmax of 354 nm. In particular embodiments, DHHB represents between 1 and 12%, in particular between 4 and 12%, or between 1 and 10%, for example between 3 and 10%, in particular between 4 and 9%, typically between 5 and 8%, in particular between 5 and 7%, in particular between 6 and 7%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; - and / or 2,4-bis[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxyphenyl]-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine (CAS No.: 187393-00-6; INCI name: bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine), also known as bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine or BEMT, as marketed by BASF under the name Tinosorb S®. This is a broadband, lipid-soluble filter with two absorption peaks at 310 nm and 340 nm. In certain embodiments, BEMT represents between 1 and 6%, in particular between 2 and 6%, or between 1 and 5%, in particular between 2 and 5%, in particular between 2 and 4%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0041] The mixture of fat-soluble organic sunscreens of the composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one of the following: - Ethylhexyl triazone or EHT (chemical name: 2-ethylhexyl ester of 4-[[4,6-bis[[4-(2-ethylhexoxy-oxomethyl)phenyl]amino]-1,3,5-triazin-2-yl]amino]benzoic acid; CAS No.: 88122-99-00), as marketed by BASF under the name Uvinul T 150®. This is a lipophilic UVB filter, having a maximum absorption wavelength Xmax of 314 nm. In particular embodiments, EHT represents between 1 and 6%, typically between 2 and 5%, in particular between 3 and 5%, in particular between 3.5 and 5%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; - and / or diethylhexyl butamido triazone or DBT (chemical name: 4,4'-[[6-[[4-[[(l,l-dimethylethyl)amino] carbonyl]phenyl] amino]-1,3,5-triazine-2,4-diyl ] diimino]bis-, bis(2-ethylhexyl)benzoate; CAS No.: 154702-15-5; INCI name: Diethylhexyl butamido triazone), as marketed by 3V Sigma under the name Uvasorb HEB®. This is a fat-soluble UVB filter with a maximum absorption wavelength Xmax of 310 nm. In particular embodiments, DBT represents between 1 and 8%, especially between 4 and 8% or between 1 and 6%, typically between 2 and 5%, especially between 3 and 5%, particularly between 3.5 and 5%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0042] The mixture of liposoluble organic sunscreens of the composition according to the invention may consist of 3 or 4 of these sunscreens.

[0043] Alternatively, it may contain one or more other fat-soluble organic sunscreens, for example:- 4-tert-butyl-4-methoxydibenzoylmethane or butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (chemical name: 1,4-(1,l-dimethylethyl)phenyl-3-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3-propanedione; CAS No.: 70356-09-1), also known as avobenzone or BMDBM, as marketed notably by DSM under the name Parsol 1789®. It is a liposoluble UVA filter, having a maximum absorption wavelength Xmax of 357 nm. In particular embodiments of the invention, BMDBM represents between 1% and 10%, for example between 1% and 8%, in particular between 1% and 5%, typically between 2% and 4%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.It is, however, well known that the butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane molecule, a widely used UVA filter in commercial sunscreens, cleaves into various chemical constituents lacking absorbing capacity when subjected to UV irradiation, unless combined with other compounds to improve its photostability. Therefore, preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is free of butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane. - 2-Ethylhexyl salicylate (CAS No. 118-60-5), also known as octyl salicylate or ethylhexyl salicylate (EHS), as marketed by Aako BV under the name AakoSun EHS®. Alternatively, the composition according to the invention may not include ethylhexyl salicylate; - methoxypropylamino cyclohexenylidene ethoxyethylcyanoacetate (chemical name: 2-ethoxyethyl (2Z)-2-cyano-2-[3-(3-methoxypropylamino)cyclohex-2-en-1-ylidene]acetate; CAS No.: 1419401-88-9). In particular embodiments of the invention, the concentration of methoxypropylamino cyclohexenylidene ethoxyethylcyanoacetate is less than or equal to 3% by weight relative to the weight total composition. Alternatively, the composition according to the invention may not include methoxypropylamino cyclohexenylidene ethoxyethylcyanoacetate.

[0044] The composition according to the invention is preferably free of particulate sunscreen. This characteristic further enhances the sensory qualities of the composition, particularly with regard to the lightness of its texture.

[0045] The composition according to the invention is in particular preferably free of organic particulate sunscreens, or at least of one or more of the organic particulate sunscreens corresponding to the INCI names: phenylene bis-diphenyltriazine, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, tris-biphenyl triazine. It is in particular preferably free of phenylene bis-diphenyltriazine, a name commonly used to designate 5,6,5',6'-tetraphenyl-3,3'-(l,4-phenylene)-bis[l,2,4]triazine, (CAS No.: 55514-22-2, INCI name: phenylene bis-diphenyltriazine).

[0046] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is also free of inorganic particulate solar filters, or at least of the inorganic particulate solar filter titanium dioxide and / or the inorganic particulate solar filter zinc oxide.

[0047] In particular embodiments, the composition according to the invention further does not comprise octocrylene, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl methoxycinnamate, homosalate, para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA), octyl dimethyl PABA, 3-methylbenzylidene camphor, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, benzophenone-3 and / or benzophenone-4.

[0048] Octocrylene is suspected of being a potential endocrine disruptor. Other sunscreens present in many commercial products are also subject to controversy due to their potentially harmful effects on the user or the environment, and are therefore preferentially excluded from the composition according to the invention. Examples include derivatives of cinnamate (ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl methoxycinnamate), homosalate, para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA, octyl dimethyl PABA), camphor (3-methylbenzylidene camphor, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor), and benzophenone (benzophenone-3, benzophenone-4). The use of such compounds is therefore undesirable.

[0049] In particular embodiments, the composition according to the invention does not comprise any water-soluble sunscreen. Alternatively, it may contain at least one water-soluble organic sunscreen, such as at least one phenylbenzimidazole derivative, for example phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid or one of its salts.

[0050] In preferred embodiments of the invention, the composition does not comprise any other sun filters than those contained in the mixture of fat-soluble organic sun filters.

[0051] These liposoluble organic sunscreens are also preferably in number less than or equal to 6, preferably less than or equal to 5, preferably even less than or equal to 4, for example equal to 3.

[0052] More generally, the total number of solar filters present in the composition according to the invention is preferably less than or equal to 5, preferably less than or equal to 4, and even more preferably equal to 3.

[0053] The mixture of liposoluble organic sunscreens in the composition according to the invention is, for example, composed of: - hexyl 2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]benzoate, - 2,4-bis[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxyphenyl]-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine, - and ethylhexyl triazone.

[0054] It may otherwise consist of: - hexyl 2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]benzoate, - 2,4-bis[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxyphenyl]-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine, - and diethylhexyl butamido triazone.

[0055] It may alternatively consist of: - hexyl 2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]benzoate, - 2,4-bis[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxyphenyl]-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine, - diethylhexyl butamido triazone, - and ethylhexyl triazone.

[0056] In the three above configurations of the mixture of liposoluble organic sunscreens, the constituents of this mixture are preferably the only sunscreens contained in the composition according to the invention.

[0057] The content of sun filters in the composition according to the invention is preferably chosen so that this composition has a sun protection factor (SPF) between 20 and 99, preferably between 30 and 80 and more preferably between 50 and 80.

[0058] The total SPF of the composition is evaluated in a conventional manner on its own, for wavelengths between 290 and 400 nm. Its value can be determined according to ISO 24444 "Sun protection test methods - In vivo determination of the sun protection factor (SPF) 2019".

[0059] Generally, the total content of sun filters in the composition according to the invention is preferably between 10 and 26% by weight, in particular between 10 and 22% by weight, especially between 12 and 20% by weight, for example between 14 and 18% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0060] The content of said mixture of fat-soluble organic sunscreens in the composition, in particular when the latter is devoid of any sunscreen other than of the fat-soluble organic type, is preferably between 10 and 26% by weight, in particular between 10 and 22% by weight, notably between 12 and 20% by weight, for example between 14 and 18% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0061] Such contents of said mixture of liposoluble organic sun filters advantageously make it possible to obtain for the composition an SPF greater than or equal to 50, for example between 50 and 60, including when this mixture consists of the 3 or 4 particular filters mentioned above, and preferably only 3 filters, and when the composition does not include any other sun filter than these.

[0062] The composition also advantageously meets the objectives, particularly sensory ones, set by the present invention even when it includes such a high content of sun filters.

[0063] In particular embodiments of the invention, the constituents of the mixture of liposoluble organic sunscreens, as well as the content of each in the composition, are chosen so that the latter has an SPF / UVA ratio of less than or equal to 3, preferably less than or equal to 2.5, in accordance with the regulations in force.

[0064] The composition according to the invention comprises, as an emulsifying agent, at least myristyl glucoside, which is a product obtained by condensation of myristic alcohol with a glucose polymer.

[0065] Myristyl glucoside can notably be incorporated into the composition according to the invention in a mixture with myristyl alcohol, in the form of the product bearing the INCI name: Myristyl Alcohol & Myristyl glucoside. Such a product is notably marketed under the name Montanov® 14 by the company Seppic.

[0066] In preferred embodiments of the invention, the myristyl glucoside content in the composition is less than or equal to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. This content is preferably between 0.55% and 1% by weight, preferably between 0.6% and 1% by weight, and most preferably between 0.6% and 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Such a content of this emulsifying agent, on the one hand, ensures good stability of the composition, and on the other hand, contributes to giving it a light texture.

[0067] Myristyl glucoside may be the only emulsifying agent contained in the emulsifying system of the composition according to the invention.

[0068] In particular embodiments of the invention, the emulsifying system of the composition contains at least one other emulsifying agent, myristyl glucoside representing at least 40% by weight, and for example at least 45% by weight, of the total weight of said emulsifying system.

[0069] It is understood here that all the emulsifying agents of the composition according to the invention are considered to be contained in the emulsifying system.

[0070] When myristyl glucoside is provided in the composition in the form of the aforementioned Montanov® 14 product, the content of this product preferably represents at least 70% by weight, and even more preferably at least 75% by weight, of the total weight of this product and of the emulsifying agents other than myristyl glucoside contained in the composition.

[0071] At least one other such emulsifying agent may be chosen from among the emulsifiers suitable for forming oil-in-water type emulsions known to those skilled in the art, such as potassium cetyl phosphate or sodium stearoyl glutamate.

[0072] Potassium cetyl phosphate is preferably the only other emulsifying agent contained in the composition according to the invention.

[0073] Preferably, the composition according to the invention, and more specifically its emulsifying system, contains at most four, preferably at most three, and for example at most two, emulsifying agents, including myristyl glucoside.

[0074] The total content of emulsifying agent(s) other than myristyl glucoside in the emulsifying system of the composition according to the invention is preferably less than or equal to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, for example, between 0.5 and 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. More preferably, the total content of emulsifying agent(s) other than myristyl glucoside in the emulsifying system of the composition according to the invention is strictly greater than 0.5% by weight and less than or equal to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, for example, between 0.55 and 1% by weight, in particular between 0.6 and 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0075] In particular, in embodiments in which potassium cetyl phosphate is the only other emulsifying agent contained in the composition according to the invention, the content of potassium cetyl phosphate in the latter is preferably less than or equal to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, for example between 0.55 and 1% by weight, in particular between 0.6 and 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0076] Such contents of emulsifying agent(s) other than myristyl glucoside contribute advantageously to giving the composition according to the invention a light and fluid texture.

[0077] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one oily emollient, in particular a combination of oily emollients, for example a liquid fat or a combination of liquid fats.

[0078] By "oily emollient", we mean a liquid lipophilic compound present in the oily phase of the emulsion, and ensuring that the composition according to the invention has good sensoriality and a good capacity to soften the epidermis.

[0079] By "liquid lipophilic compound" is meant a compound which has an affinity for nonpolar substances such as lipids, and is in liquid form particularly at a temperature between 5°C and room temperature (between 20°C and 25°C). This compound typically comprises one or more polar chemical function(s) chosen from among the ester (-CO2-), alcohol (-OH), ether (-O-), carbonate (-OCO2-) and carboxylic acid (-CO2H) functions, and one or more lipophilic group(s), i.e. one or more aliphatic and / or aromatic hydrocarbon group(s), in particular one or more saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain(s), comprising between 6 and 20 carbon atoms, for example between 7 and 18 carbon atoms, especially between 8 and 16 carbon atoms.

[0080] The oily emollient(s) included in the composition according to the invention are preferably chosen to be able to solubilize, alone or in combination, all the liposoluble organic sunscreens contained therein.

[0081] At least one oily emollient of the composition according to the invention is preferably selected from C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, dicaprylyl carbonate, coco-caprylate, coco-caprylate / caprate, diisopropyl sebacate, diethylhexyl succinate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, propylheptyl caprylate, phenethyl benzoate, dibutyl adipate, diisopropyl adipate, glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate, pentaerythrityl tetra-2-ethylhexanoate, cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate, isononyl isononanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, diethylhexyl succinate, butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, octyldodecanol, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate and the dicaprylyl ether, these compounds being able to be used in the composition according to the invention alone or in any of their combinations.

[0082] The oily emollient(s) may in particular be chosen from C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, dicaprylyl carbonate, diisopropyl sebacate and their combinations.

[0083] By way of example, the composition according to the invention may contain, as oily emollients, the combination of C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, dicaprylyl carbonate and diisopropyl sebacate; or consist of such a combination.

[0084] In particular embodiments of the invention, the composition according to the invention is devoid of caprylic / capric triglycerides. Alternatively, it may further contain the oily emollient caprylic / capric triglycerides.

[0085] The total content of oily emollients in the composition according to the invention is preferably between 12.5 and 25% by weight, in particular between 13.5 and 24.5% by weight, preferably between 15 and 24% by weight, and more preferably between 18 and 22% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In particular embodiments, the total content of oily emollients in the composition according to the invention is less than or equal to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular between 15 and 20% by weight, for example between 18 and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0086] The composition according to the invention may contain any other cosmetically compatible ingredient, which is itself classic in the field of cosmetic compositions intended for topical application to the skin and hair.

[0087] In the present invention, "cosmetically compatible" means something that is useful in the preparation, preservation or administration of a cosmetic composition and that is generally safe, non-toxic and neither biologically nor otherwise undesirable, and that is acceptable for human cosmetic use.

[0088] These ingredients are specifically chosen to improve the properties of the composition, for example its hydrating power, or to give it additional properties.

[0089] Preferably, the composition according to the invention does not contain any controversial ingredients.

[0090] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one consistency factor, which may be contained in the aqueous phase and / or in the oily phase, and preferably contained in the oily phase.

[0091] This or these consistency factors are preferably chosen from fatty alcohols, fatty acids, hydrogenated vegetable oils and other waxy substances.

[0092] The composition according to the invention may in particular contain, as consistency factor(s): - at least one fatty alcohol, preferably C14-C22, such as myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol and / or behenic alcohol; preferably it contains myristyl alcohol (INCI name: Myristyl alcohol); - and / or at least one fatty acid, preferably C16-C18, such as lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid; - and / or at least one hydrogenated vegetable oil, in particular hydrogenated castor oil; - and / or at least one other waxy substance, having a melting point greater than or equal to 45°C, preferably strictly greater than 45°C, such as glycol palmitate, vegetable waxes (such as carnauba wax, sunflower wax, jojoba wax), the beeswax or the mixture of tribehenin / glyceryl dibehenate / glyceryl behenate (mixture of substances with INCI name: Tribehenin / Glyceryl Dibehenate / Glyceryl behenate) which can be found, among other things, in the commercial material COMPRITOL® 888.

[0093] The total content of consistency factor(s) in the composition according to the invention is preferably less than or equal to 5% by weight, for example less than or equal to 4% by weight, in particular less than or equal to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. For example, it is between 2 and 4% by weight, in particular between 2 and 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0094] When the composition contains myristic alcohol, the content of this compound is preferably between 1.55 and 3% by weight, in particular between 2 and 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0095] The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one polyol.

[0096] According to the present invention, "polyol" (also called polyalcohol) means a compound comprising a hydrocarbon chain with at least two carbon atoms and comprising at least two hydroxyl groups.

[0097] The polyol(s) used in the composition according to the invention may be of natural or synthetic origin. They may have a linear, branched or cyclic molecular structure.

[0098] The polyol(s) used in the composition according to the invention can in particular be chosen from glycerin and its derivatives, and glycols and its derivatives. In particular, they can be chosen from the group consisting of glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, octane 1,2-diol (also called caprylyl glycol), polyethylene glycols, especially those having 5 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, but also erythritol, threitol, arabitol, xylitol, ribitol, mannitol, sorbitol, galactitol, fucitol, iditol, inositol, volemitol, isomalt, maltitol, lactitol, maltotriitol, maltotetrol, and polyglycitol, alone or in combination. any one of their mixtures.

[0099] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises less than 10% by weight of polyols, preferably less than 8% by weight, more preferably less than 5% by weight and even more preferably less than 2% by weight, for example between 0.2 and 0.5% by weight, of polyols, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0100] In particular embodiments of the invention, the composition contains from 0.01 to 1% by weight, in particular from 0.01 to 0.7% by weight, notably from 0.01 to 0.5% by weight, for example from 0.01 to 0.7% by weight, of glycerin relative to the total weight of the composition, or is devoid of glycerin.

[0101] The composition according to the invention may also contain one or more starches, which play in particular the role of mattifying agent(s), such as tapioca starch and / or rice starch (Oryza .saliva).

[0102] The composition according to the invention is preferably devoid of silica. It is also preferably devoid of silicone. For the purposes of the present invention, silicone, or polysiloxane, in a classical sense, refers to any organosilicon polymer or oligomer with a linear and / or cyclic, branched and / or cross-linked structure, obtained by polymerization and / or polycondensation of functionalized silanes, and consisting essentially of a repetition of principal motifs in which the silicon atoms are linked together by oxygen atoms, hydrocarbon radicals, possibly substituted, in particular by hydroxyl groups, being directly linked by a carbon atom to these silicon atoms.

[0103] The cosmetic composition according to the invention is also preferably free of phenoxyethanol, which is suspected of being an endocrine disruptor.

[0104] The composition according to the invention may contain one or more preservatives, or be free of them.

[0105] In particular embodiments of the invention, the composition is devoid of ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA). Alternatively, it may contain such an acid.

[0106] The composition may also include colour pigments, in particular selected from CI77891, CI77491, CI77492 and / or CI77499 (INCI designations).

[0107] In particular embodiments, the composition according to the invention comprises an amount of C1-C4 monoalcohol(s), such as ethanol and / or isopropanol, this amount preferably being less than or equal to 5% by weight, for example between 3 and 5% by weight, and for example between 3 and 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0108] In alternative embodiments of the invention, the composition is devoid of C1-C4 monoalcohols, such as ethanol and isopropanol.

[0109] In particular embodiments of the invention, the composition comprises an amount of volatile ingredients which is less than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 2% by weight, in particular less than or equal to 1% by weight, in particular less than or equal to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0110] By "volatile ingredients", for the purposes of the present invention, means non-alcoholic volatile organic or inorganic compounds such as volatile esters, silicones or alkanes, characterized by a flash point below 60°C.

[0111] For the purposes of this invention, "flash point" (FP) means the minimum temperature at which a combustible substance emits vapors in a concentration sufficient to form a gaseous mixture with the surrounding air that ignites upon contact with a flame or a hot spot, but insufficient for combustion to propagate spontaneously in the absence of the pilot flame. According to Regulation (EC) No 1272 / 2008 on the classification, labelling and packaging of substances and mixtures, a substance with an FP such that 23°C < FP < 60°C belongs to category 3 "low flammability".

[0112] Among volatile esters, isohexyl neopentanoate is a notable example. Among volatile silicones, cyclopentasiloxane is a notable example. Among volatile alkanes, isohexadecane is a notable example.

[0113] In particular embodiments, the composition according to the invention is devoid of volatile ingredients within the meaning of the present invention.

[0114] The composition is also preferably free of surfactants, in particular amphoteric surfactants.

[0115] In particular embodiments of the invention, the solar cosmetic composition is free of microplastics.

[0116] The term "microplastic" in the context of the present invention means microparticles of synthetic polymers, and refers to the definition given in the regulation published on 27 September 2023: Commission Regulation (EU) 2023 / 2055 of 25 September 2023 amending Annex XVII to Regulation (EC) No 1907 / 2006 of the European Parliament and of the Council concerning the Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and Restriction of Chemicals (REACH), as regards synthetic polymer microparticles.According to this document, microplastics, or microparticles of synthetic polymers, are defined as polymers that are solid and that either are contained within particles and constitute at least 1% by weight of these particles, or form a continuous surface coating on particles, when at least 1% by weight of these particles fulfill one of the following conditions: (a) all dimensions of the particles are less than or equal to 5 mm; (b) the length of the particles is less than or equal to 15 mm and their length-to-diameter ratio is greater than 3.The following polymers are excluded from this designation: (a) polymers resulting from a polymerization process that has occurred in nature, which are not chemically modified substances; (b) polymers which are degradable as proven in accordance with Annex 15 of the document; (c) polymers which have a solubility greater than 2 g / L as proven in accordance with Annex 16 of the document (solubility test in water at pH 7 under stirring for 24 h at 20°C, with a polymer loading of 10 g / 1000 mL according to the protocol of Test No. °120 or Test No. 105 of the OECD Guidelines for the Testing of Chemicals); (d) polymers that do not contain carbon atoms in their chemical structure. Microparticles of synthetic polymers covered by the derogation provided for in point 4a of the said draft amendment to Annex XVII are also excluded from this definition.

[0117] More generally, microplastics can be defined as particles whose dimensions are all less than 5 mm, formed or coated with solid synthetic organic polymer(s) insoluble in water and non-biodegradable.

[0118] Thus, in particular, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is preferably free of microplastic polyquaterniums, ingredients used in many cosmetic compositions proposed by the prior art.

[0119] It is also preferably free of microplastic acrylates.

[0120] On the other hand, in particular embodiments of the invention, The cosmetic composition may include one or more non-microplastic acrylates, in particular chosen from the group consisting of (INCI names): - Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, - Acrylates / vinyl isodecanoate crosspolymer, - Sodium Polyacrylate, - Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, - Acrylates Copolymer, - Polyacrylate-13, - Acrylates / t-Butylacrylamide Copolymer, - Octylacrylamide / acrylates / butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, - Polyacrylamide, - VP / Methacrylamide / Vinyl Imidazole Copolymer, - Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP Copolymer, - Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, used alone or in any of their mixtures.

[0121] The composition according to the invention may additionally contain one or more cosmetically active agents for topical use for skin care and / or hygiene. Each such active agent may consist of any active ingredient possessing cosmetic properties. It may be selected from natural products, in particular plant extracts, extracts derived from biotechnology, such as plant cell or microalgae cultures, chemicals, or postbiotics, or any combination thereof.

[0122] The total concentration of active agent(s) in the composition according to the invention may, for example, be between 0.01 and 2% by weight, in particular between 0.05 and 1.5% in weight, in particular still between 0.1 and 1% by weight, for example between 0.1 and 0.7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0123] Preferably, a cosmetically active agent contained in the composition according to the invention is hyaluronic acid and / or at least one of its cosmetically acceptable salts. A hyaluronic acid salt usable according to the invention is, in particular, an alkali salt and may especially be chosen from sodium hyaluronate and potassium hyaluronate. Preferably, it is sodium hyaluronate.

[0124] Preferably, the hyaluronic acid has a high molecular weight, that is to say a molecular weight greater than or equal to 100 kDa, advantageously greater than or equal to 1000 kDa, and more advantageously from 1000 to 2000 kDa, and even more advantageously from 1000 to 1500 kDa.

[0125] One can cite, for example, as an example of such hyaluronic acid, the hyaluronic acid supplied by the company Givaudan under the trade name CRISTALHYAL®, having a molecular weight of 1 to 1.5 MDa.

[0126] Thus, in particular embodiments of the invention, the composition comprises hyaluronic acid of molecular weight greater than or equal to 100 kDa, preferably greater than or equal to 1000 kDa, in particular between 1000 and 2000 kDa, or between 1000 and 1500 kDa, or one of its salts.

[0127] In preferred embodiments of the invention, the concentration of hyaluronic acid or at least one of its cosmetically acceptable salts is between 0.01 and 2% by weight, in particular between 0.05 and 1.5% by weight, in particular again between 0.1 and 1% by weight, for example between 0.1 and 0.7% by weight, or even 0.1 to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0128] The composition according to the invention may also, for example, contain, as a cosmetically active agent, tocopheryl glucoside, zinc gluconate, glyceryl laurate and / or an extract of Lens esculenta seeds.

[0129] The composition according to the invention can be prepared by any conventional process in itself for the preparation of oil-in-water emulsions.

[0130] The cosmetic composition according to the invention is in particular intended to be applied topically to any area of ​​skin of a subject likely to be exposed to solar radiation or artificial ultraviolet radiation, in particular an area of ​​skin on the face or body of the subject.

[0131] Another aspect of the invention relates to the use of a cosmetic composition according to the invention for sun protection of the skin and / or hair of a subject, this use including the topical application of the composition to said skin and / or hair. The subject may be a mammal, in particular a human.

[0132] Throughout this description, the term "skin" includes both the skin itself and mucous membranes, particularly the lips. The term "cutaneous" includes both what relates to the skin and what relates to mucous membranes.

[0133] The composition according to the invention can, for example, be applied topically to an area of ​​skin of the subject concerned, such as the skin of the face, including the lips, or of the body, in an effective quantity, as often as necessary before or during exposure to solar radiation.

[0134] Applying the composition to the skin includes making contact with the skin, preferably followed by a skin massage, particularly with circular movements, to promote penetration of the composition into the skin. A massage performed for a very short time, less than 5 seconds, is advantageously sufficient to achieve a feeling of complete absorption of the composition by the skin, due to the skin's excellent absorption properties.

[0135] After application, no sticky residue or white marks are observed on the skin. In other words, the composition according to the invention advantageously leaves no visible and / or unpleasant marks on the skin.

[0136] The invention is also expressed in terms of a therapeutic method for the sun protection of an area of ​​skin of a subject, in particular a human, this method comprising the topical application, on this area of ​​skin, of an effective quantity of a cosmetic composition according to the invention.

[0137] This process can meet one or more of the characteristics described above with reference to the use of the composition according to the invention for sun protection of the skin and / or hair.

[0138] The present invention also relates to a method for non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment of an area of ​​skin and / or hair of a subject, in particular a human, for the sun protection of this area of ​​skin and / or hair, by topical application, on this area of ​​skin and / or hair, of an effective amount of a cosmetic composition according to the invention.

[0139] Here again, this process can meet one or more of the characteristics described above with reference to the use of the composition according to the invention for sun protection of the skin and / or hair.

[0140] Another object of the invention relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a cosmetic composition according to the invention for the sun protection of an area of ​​skin and / or hair of a subject, in particular a human. This use includes the topical application of this composition to this area of ​​skin and / or hair. It may have one or more of the characteristics described below. before with reference to the use of the composition according to the invention for sun protection of the skin and / or hair.

[0141] EXAMPLES

[0142] The features and advantages of the invention will become more apparent in the light of the following implementation examples, provided by way of illustration only and in no way limiting the invention.

[0143] 1 / Example 1 - Composition according to the invention and comparative compositions

[0144] A cosmetic composition according to the invention, named Inv 1, and comparative compositions not in accordance with the invention, Cl and C2, are described below.

[0145] These two comparative compositions correspond to commercial sunscreens, with very different ingredients but with claims similar to those targeted by the invention, namely rapid, even immediate, absorption and light textures. They have an SPF of 50.

[0146] The formula of the composition according to the invention Inv 1 is shown in Table 1. In this table, the contents of each of the ingredients are indicated as a percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The contents of Myristyl glucoside and Potassium cetyl phosphate are chosen jointly to ensure that the Myristyl glucoside content is greater than or equal to 40% by weight relative to the combined weight of Myristyl glucoside and Potassium cetyl phosphate.

[0147] [Tables] Ingredient (INCI Name) % w / w Aqua >45 Dicaprylyl carbonate 5-10 C12-C15 alkyl benzoate 8-12 Diisopropyl sebacate 0.5 - 2.5 Diethylhexyl butamido triazone 4-8 bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine 2-6 Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate 4-12 Myristyl glucoside 0.55 - 1 Potassium cetyl phosphate 0.6-1 Myristyl alcohol 2-3 Glyceryl dibehenate 0.2 - 0.4 Tribehenin 0.08 - 0.2 Glyceryl behenate 0.05 - 0.25 Alcohol (éthanol) 3-5 Lens esculenta seed extract 0,05 - 0,2 Tapioca starch 0,5-2 Oryza sativa starch 2-5 Sodium hyaluronate 0,1-0,5 Sclerotium gum 0,1-1 Trimethylpentanediol / adipic acid / glycerin crosspolymer 0,5-2 Caprylyl glycol 0,2 - 0,5 Benzoic acid 0,15-0,2 Parfum < 1

[0148] Tableau 1 - Formule de la composition selon l’invention Inv 1

[0149] La formule de la composition comparative Cl, crème solaire, est la suivante (Noms INCI) : Aqua, Octocrylene, Ethylhexyl salicylate, Propanediol, Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, Polymethyl méthacrylate, Dimethicone, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, Polysilicone-15, Propylene glycol, Dicaprylate / dicaprate, Tromethamine, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, Silica, Dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, 1,2-hexanediol, polysorbate 60, PEG-10 dimethicone, Sodium hyaluronate, Tocopheryl acetate, Xanthan gum, Caprylyl glycol, Parfum, Disodium EDTA, PEG-8, Tocopherol, Tropolone, Ascorbyl palmitate, Ascorbic acid, Citric acid.

[0150] La formule de la composition comparative C2, crème solaire, est la suivante (Noms INCI) : Aqua, Alcohol, Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, Ethylhexyl triazone, Isopropyl palmitate, Lauryl methacrylate / sodium méthacrylate crosspolymer, Diethylamine hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, Hydrogenated polyisobutene, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, Dextrin palmitate, Butylène glycol, Xylitol, Phenoxyethanol, Acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, Dimethicone, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, Glycerin, Propanediol, Glyceryl stéarate, Glyceryl behenate, Vinyl dimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer, Potassium hydroxide, Cetyl alcohol, Agar, Sorbitan distearate, Isoceteth-20, Polyvinyl alcohol, Dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosscopolymer, Stearoyl glutamic acid, Arginine, Disodium EDTA, Parfum, BHT, Sodium hydroxide, Tocopherol, Royal jelly extract, Sodium hyaluronate, Methylparaben.

[0151] 2 / Exemple 2 - Vitesse d’absorption des compositions par la peau

[0152] The aim of this study is to evaluate the rate of absorption by the skin of the composition according to the invention Inv 1 and to compare it to that of topical compositions intended for sun protection Cl and C2.

[0153] This evaluation is conducted in sensory booths, with 13 volunteers trained and validated in the sensory technique for topical compositions. Temperature, lighting, and humidity are controlled throughout the study. Comfortable conditions are maintained for the evaluators.

[0154] The absorption rate is recorded as follows: 25 µl of a composition is applied to the forearm of an evaluator, and the number of rotations required for the product to be absorbed by the skin is counted, or more precisely, the number of rotations required for the person to feel that all the product has been absorbed by the skin. The rotations are performed in time with a metronome. Since the three compositions are coded, each evaluator tests them in any order.

[0155] The results of the absorption assessment are summarized in Table 2 below.

[0156] [Tables2] Criterion Inv 1 Cl C2 Average number of turns for absorption 8.41 10.41 10.05 Standard deviation 1.43 0.88 1.25

[0157] Table 2 - Results of the evaluation of the absorption of the compositions

[0158] For the comparative compositions Cl and C2, at least 10 rotations are required to detect absorption of the latter. No significant difference is observed between these two compositions.

[0159] On the other hand, the composition according to the invention Inv 1 is absorbed more rapidly, this difference in absorption rate is significantly different (p<0.05, Tukey test) versus the comparative compositions.

[0160] The inventors thus clearly demonstrate that the composition according to the invention fulfills a main objective, which is to achieve rapid absorption by the skin.

[0161] 3 / Example 3 - Sensory profiles of compositions

[0162] The aim of this study is to evaluate, for the composition according to the invention Inv 1 and for the comparative compositions Cl and C2, different sensory criteria, which are detailed in Table 3 below.

[0163] To describe each criterion as accurately as possible, the evaluation methodology is standardized, the product is applied to the desired area (forearm) and 15 rotations are performed to the rhythm of the metronome before noting the criterion.

[0164] [Tables3] Descriptive Criteria Stickiness Adhesion of the finger or hand on the product application area Immediate white residue Presence of white traces after 15 rotations Residual white residue Presence of white traces 1 minute after product application Powdery touch Peach-skin feel, assessed 2 minutes after product application Dry touch Non-greasy, non-sticky and shine-free skin feel, assessed 2 minutes after product application Immediate oily effect Oily feeling on the skin during and immediately after 15 rotations

[0165] Table 3 - Descriptive criteria of the sensory profile

[0166] A computer questionnaire presents unstructured analog scales from 0 to 10 for each of the descriptive criteria on the computer screen. The results of the evaluation are summarized in Table 4 below, with mean values ​​including standard deviation for each attribute.

[0167] [Tables4] Criteria Inv 1 Cl C2 Stickiness 0.10 + 0.11 * 0.27 + 0.17 0.15 + 0.11 Immediate white residue 0.02 + 0.02 0.03 + 0.06 0.02 + 0.03 Residual white residue 0.02 + 0.02 0.03 + 0.06 0.02 + 0.02 Powdery feel 3.75 + 0.45*t 3.04 + 0.28 3.42 + 0.38 Dry feel 8.40 + 0.41 8.55 + 0.34 8.43 + 0.46 Immediate oily effect 1.44 + 0.29* 1.84 + 0.39 1.47 + 0.36

[0168] Table 4 - Sensory analysis results - *p<0.05 versus Cl - fp<0.05 versus C2

[0169] We observe that: - on the descriptor criterion "Sticky", the composition according to the invention is significantly better than Cl, and similar to C2; - on the descriptor criteria "Immediate white residue" and "Residual white residue", the results are similar for the 3 compositions; - on the descriptor criterion "Powdery touch", the composition according to the invention is significantly better than Cl and C2; - on the descriptor criterion "Dry touch", the results are similar for the 3 compositions; - and on the descriptor criterion "Immediate oily effect", the composition according to the invention is significantly better than Cl, and similar to C2.

[0170] These results show that the composition according to the invention has very interesting sensory characteristics. Indeed, little to no stickiness was perceived by the panel; extremely low values ​​were reported, with a significantly less sticky effect than composition C1. The near absence of white residue immediately after application or one minute later is also an interesting sensory characteristic of the composition according to the invention. A pronounced powdery feel (the "peach skin" effect), always sought after by consumers, is highlighted in this study; the effect even appears significantly better than in the two comparative compositions. In addition to this powdery feel, a dry feel can also be emphasized, with very good results, equivalent to those of compositions C1 and C2.Finally, the oily effect quantified immediately after application is very little felt by the panel; this effect is even significantly weaker than that felt with the Cl composition.

[0171] The inventors thus demonstrate that the composition according to the invention exhibits a very rapid absorption rate, combined with truly interesting sensory characteristics. This very rapid absorption and the near absence of white residue upon application highlight the invisible nature of this composition according to the invention.

[0172] 4 / Example 4 - Subjective questionnaire for evaluating a composition according to the invention

[0173] The aim of this study is to verify the effectiveness of the composition according to the invention Inv 1 through the subjective evaluation / perception of subjects by self-assessment.

[0174] The study was conducted on 33 subjects over 3 weeks. The composition according to the invention was applied twice a day to the face, neck and décolleté of these subjects.

[0175] 3 visits with a dermatologist are mandatory, on day 1 to include subjects, on day 8 for a second examination and at the end of the study on day 22.

[0176] Different questions about the perception of the applied product are asked of each subject.

[0177] Table 5 below summarizes the questions and the rates of positive responses to these questions, obtained in the study.

[0178] [Tables5] Questions Percentage (number of subjects responding positively) Day 8 Day 22 Does the product have immediate absorption? 97.0 100 Is the product 100% invisible on the skin? 90.9 90.9 Does the product have an ultra-light texture? 97.0 93.9 Does the product have a refreshing texture? 81.8 93.9 Does the product provide a residue-free finishing touch? 97.0 93.9 Does the product provide a non-greasy finish? 78.8 81.8

[0179] Table 5 - Results of the subjective self-assessment study for the composition according to the invention Inv 1, 8 days (“D8”) and 22 days (“D22”) after the start of the study

[0180] It is interesting to note that the responses to this questionnaire are overwhelmingly positive. The sensation of immediate absorption is almost unanimous on day 8 and is truly unanimous on day 22. Over 90% of subjects find the product invisible on the skin, on both day 8 and day 22, which is corroborated by the near absence of residue. The sensation of an ultra-light texture is also reported by 97% of subjects. Over 80% of people find the texture refreshing on day 8 and nearly 95% on day 22. Approximately 80% of subjects feel that the product leaves a non-greasy finish on the skin.

[0181] 5 / Example 5 - Comparison of texture perception of a composition according to the invention with another commercially available oil-in-water emulsion in the solar range

[0182] A panel of 12 evaluators accustomed to this type of evaluation in sensory booths tested a so-called standard composition not in accordance with the invention (C3) and compared it to a composition according to the invention (Inv 1).

[0183] 25 µl of each product were applied to a 7 cm area of ​​the forearm diameter. Each evaluator performed the comparison in triplicate.

[0184] La formule de la composition comparative C3, qui se présente sous forme d’une émulsion huile-dans-eau, est la suivante (Noms INCI) : Aqua, Silica, Isononyl Isononanoate, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Titanium Dioxide, Homosalate, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid, Diisopropyl Sebacate, Triethanolamine, Glycerin, Octocrylene, Caprylyl Methicone, Pentylene Glycol, Aluminium Starch Octenylsuccinate, Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Propylene Glycol, Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid, Stearic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Palmitic Acid, PEG-100 Stéarate, Glyceryl Stéarate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP Copolymer, Sodium Methyl Stearoyl Taurate, Stearyl Alcohol, Caprylyl Glycol, Silica Silylate, Tocopherol, Polylactic Acid, Poloxamer 338, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Butylene Glycol, Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Aluminum Hydroxide, Disodium EDTA, Myristic Acid, t-Butyl Alcohol, BHT, perfume.

[0185] The evaluators were asked to compare the lightness of the composition according to the invention Inv 1 with that of the standard composition, measuring whether there was a difference and what degree of difference compared to the reference. The evaluation scale used by the evaluators is illustrated below: • 3: 3 times lighter than the standard, • 2: Twice as light as the standard, • 1: once lighter than the standard, • 0: like the standard, • -1: once less light than the standard, • -2: twice as light as the standard, • -3: 3 times less light than the standard.

[0186] A statistical analysis was performed (Student's t-test).

[0187] The results obtained are as follows: - In terms of lightness, the composition according to the invention Inv 1 obtains a score of 1.58 ± 0.50 (p<0.05 versus standard) on this scale. This means that the composition according to the invention is between 1 and 2 times lighter than the standard composition; - 58% of the responses (i.e. 21 out of 36 possible responses) are: 2 times lighter than the standard.

[0188] The inventors thus highlight the lightness of the composition according to the invention Inv 1, almost 2 times lighter than another oil-in-water emulsion available commercially also in the solar field.

[0189] 6 / Example 6 - Sun protection efficiency

[0190] The evaluation of the photoprotection provided by the composition according to example 1 Inv 1 was carried out according to ISO 24444 "Sun protection test methods - In vivo determination of the sun protection factor (SPF) 2019".

[0191] This evaluation was conducted on 10 subjects (female and male subjects, aged 24 to 58 years, mean age: 43 years). The composition was applied to the dorsal infrascapular area. The area was irradiated with a controlled dose of ultraviolet radiation and then evaluated between 16 and 24 hours after irradiation.

[0192] The average SPF thus obtained is between 50 and 60.

[0193] The composition according to the invention thus makes it possible to ensure very good protection (SPF > 50) with only the 3 UV filters: Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone.

[0194] In conclusion, based on all the above results, the inventors have clearly demonstrated that the cosmetic composition according to the invention, effective in terms of sun protection, also provides the benefits sought by the invention in terms of texture and sensory appeal, and, in particular: - is capable of being absorbed very quickly into the skin, even faster than two sunscreens that claim to absorb quickly, - has an ultra-light texture, - is virtually invisible after application (without white residue), - leaves no sticky residue on the skin, - and provides a feeling of freshness on the skin.

[0195] 7 / Example 7 - Comparative stability and texture evaluation tests

[0196] A composition A according to the invention and two compositions not according to the invention (B and C) were tested for their stability and texture properties.

[0197] The stability study of these three compositions focused on the visual aspect. Indeed, the visual aspect allows for an assessment of the composition's homogeneity. This test was carried out by a person trained in this type of exercise, after two months of storage of the compositions.

[0198] For texture evaluation, 0.1 ml of each composition was applied to the back of the hand. Various criteria were then evaluated, such as skin penetration, oily appearance, stickiness, and leaving white marks after absorption.

[0199] The formulas of the compositions tested, and the results obtained, are shown in Table 6. The mixture of the 3 sunscreens includes the following filters: Diethylhexyl butamido triazone, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate.

[0200] [Tableauxô] Ingredients Composition A (% w / w) Composition B (% w / w) Composition C (% w / w) Blend of 3 sunscreens 15 15 15 Myristyl glucoside 0.75 0.75 0.5 Myristyl alcohol 2.25 2.25 1.5 Potassium cetyl phosphate 0.6-1 0.6-1 0.6-1 Scleroglucan gum 0.4 - 0.4 Xanthan gum - 0.4 - Oily emollients 20 20 20 Water qsp qsp qsp Stability OK OK Non-compliant Texture OK Non-compliant Not evaluated

[0201] Table 6 - Comparative stability and texture evaluation tests for a composition according to invention A and compositions not according to invention B and C

[0202] Composition A appears stable and has a texture that meets all the criteria evaluated, including a pleasant feel and no sticky effect.

[0203] Composition B (containing xanthan gum instead of scleroglucan gum) also appears stable, but has a non-compliant texture, a pronounced sticky effect is evident, making this composition unsatisfactory.

[0204] Composition C, containing only 0.5% myristyl glucoside, does not allow a stable composition to be obtained (a phase shift is observed).

[0205] Thus, a concentration of more than 0.5% of myristyl glucoside and the presence of scleroglucan gum are the prerequisites for obtaining a stable composition and with a texture meeting all the criteria referred to by the invention.

Claims

Demands

1. Cosmetic sun protection composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, suitable for topical application to the skin, comprising: - water, - at least one oily emollient, - a mixture of liposoluble organic sunscreens, - an emulsifying system containing at least myristyl glucoside, the myristyl glucoside being included in the composition in a content greater than 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, - and scleroglucan gum.

2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the mixture of fat-soluble organic sunscreens comprises at least one fat-soluble organic sunscreen selected from diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, ethylhexyl triazone, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane and methoxypropylamino cyclohexenylidene ethoxyethylcyanoacetate.

3. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein said emulsifying system contains at least one other emulsifying agent, myristyl glucoside representing at least 40% by weight of the total weight of said emulsifying system.

4. Cosmetic composition according to claim 3, wherein the total amount of emulsifying agent(s) other than myristyl glucoside of said emulsifying system is less than or equal to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. Cosmetic composition according to claim 3 or 4, containing at most four emulsifying agents.

6. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the scleroglucan gum content is between 0.1 and 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. A cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the content of said mixture of sunscreens The proportion of fat-soluble organic matter is between 10 and 26% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, which is devoid of particulate sunscreen.

9. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, not comprising octocrylene, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl methoxycinnamate, homosalate, para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA), octyl dimethyl PABA, 3-methylbenzylidene camphor, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, benzophenone-3 and / or benzophenone-4.

10. A cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein said at least one liquid lipophilic emollient is selected from C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, dicaprylyl carbonate, coco-caprylate, coco-caprylate / caprate, diisopropyl sebacate, diethylhexyl succinate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, propylheptyl caprylate, phenethyl benzoate, dibutyl adipate, diisopropyl adipate, glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate, pentaerythrityl tetra-2-ethylhexanoate, cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate, isononyl isononanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, diethylhexyl succinate, butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, octyldodecanol, and propylene glycol. dicaprylate / dicaprate and dicaprylyl ether.

11. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, which contains from 0.01 to 1% by weight of glycerin relative to the total weight of the composition, or is devoid of glycerin.

12. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, comprising at least one cosmetically active agent for topical use for skin care and / or hygiene.

13. Cosmetic composition according to claim 12, wherein a cosmetically active agent is hyaluronic acid or at least one of its salts.

14. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, for use for sun protection of the skin and / or hair of a subject, wherein said composition is applied topically to said skin and / or hair.