COMPOSITION CONTAINS GLUCOMANNAN
A cosmetic composition with glucomannan and oil addresses the challenge of effective makeup removal and user experience, offering exfoliation and environmental sustainability.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2024008662
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Utility models
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2024-08-05
- Publication Date
- 2026-02-06
- Estimated Expiration
- 2034-08-05
AI Technical Summary
Existing cleansing products struggle to effectively remove makeup while considering environmental impact, and there is a need for compositions that offer good makeup removal capabilities with a reduced carbon footprint and a unique user experience.
A cosmetic composition comprising glucomannan and oil, with specific weight percentages, that forms aggregates resembling vermicelli during use, providing effective makeup removal and exfoliation while being environmentally friendly.
The composition offers good makeup removal capabilities, exfoliates the superficial skin layer, and provides a unique and enjoyable user experience, all while being environmentally friendly.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: COMPOSITION COMPRISING GLUCOMANNAN technical field
[0001] The present invention relates to a treatment composition for a keratinous material such as skin. CONTEXT OF THE INVENTION
[0002] Cleansing the skin is very important for facial care. It must be as effective as possible because oily residues, such as excess sebum, remnants of cosmetic products used daily and makeup products, especially waterproof products, tend to accumulate in skin wrinkles, can clog skin pores, which can result in the appearance of spots.
[0003] Thus, in the field of cosmetics, cleansing products are widely used to clean keratinous material such as skin, in particular to remove makeup from keratinous material.
[0004] Some cleaning products include small particles called "exfoliants". Exfoliants can help to physically remove dirt or makeup from a keratinous material such as skin.
[0005] Furthermore, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, which are designed and developed taking environmental issues into account, is becoming a major objective in an effort to meet global challenges.
[0006] It is, therefore, essential to propose more sustainable compositions, preparation processes and ingredients to address these environmental concerns.
[0007] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions, such as new cleansing compositions, with a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or materials with a good naturalness index and / or materials of natural origin.
[0008] It is always necessary to develop a new cleansing composition that can offer good makeup removal capabilities. DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION
[0009] An objective of the present invention is to propose a composition which can offer good makeup removal capabilities as well as a unique sensation during use.
[0010] The above objective can be achieved by a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition and, more preferably, a cosmetic composition for cleansing, comprising: a. at least one glucomannan and b. at least one oil,
[0011] in which
[0012] the quantity of (a) glucomannan(s) in the composition is 0.5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0013] The (a) glucomannan can be selected from water-soluble glucomannan, water-insoluble glucomannan and mixtures thereof.
[0014] (a) Glucomannan can be derived from konjac.
[0015] The quantity of (a) glucomannan(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight and, more preferably, from 1.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0016] The (b) oil may be selected from ester oils, ether oils, hydrocarbon oils and mixtures thereof, preferably from esters of monoalcohols and monoacids, dialkyl ethers, linear or branched alkanes with a carbon chain of Cl 1 to C20 long, and mixtures thereof and, more preferably, from the group consisting of C15-19 alkane, undecane, tridecane isopropyl myristate, dicaprylyl ether and mixtures thereof.
[0017] The quantity of the (b) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 3% to 35% by weight and, more preferably, from 5% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0018] The composition according to the present invention may, in addition, comprise (c) water, preferably in an amount of 50% to 95% by weight, more preferably 60% to 93% by weight and, even more preferably, 70% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0019] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (d) at least one emulsifier.
[0020] The (d) emulsifier can be selected from (dl) polyglyceryl esters of fatty acids, (d2) gemini surfactants and mixtures thereof.
[0021] The (dl) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester can be selected from polyglyceryl fatty acid monoesters, preferably from polyglyceryl caprate comprising 2 to 6 glycerol units, polyglyceryl oleate comprising 2 to 6 glycerol units, polyglyceryl caprylate comprising 2 to 6 glycerol units, and their mixtures and, more preferably, polyglyceryl caprylate comprising 2 to 6 glycerol motifs.
[0022] The (d2) gemini surfactant can be chosen from the compounds represented by the following formula (A): r w "THAI CH3(CH2)f-CONH "CH (=0 tyH ÇH “Y' NH CHgïCHPi-CONH CH (CH^ y:
[0023] in which
[0024] - Y1 independently designates a carboxylic acid group or an alkali salt of a carboxylic acid group such as a sodium salt of a carboxylic acid group,
[0025] - j1, kl, j2 and k2 denote integers such that (j1, kl, j2, k2) = one any of (2,0,2,0), (2,0,0,2), (0,2,2,0) and (0,2,0,2) and
[0026] 1 denotes an integer from 6 to 16, preferably from 8 to 14 and, more preferably, from 10 to 12, preferably from the group consisting of dilauramidoglutamide sodium lysine, dimyristoylglutamide sodium lysine and distearoylglutamide sodium lysine and one of their mixtures.
[0027] The quantity of the (c) emulsifier(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.001% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0028] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating keratinous material, such as skin, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratinous material.
[0029] The cosmetic process according to the present invention may further include the step of massaging the keratinous material.
[0030] The cosmetic process according to the present invention can be used to clean keratinous material, preferably to remove makeup from keratinous material, and more preferably to remove makeup from skin or eyelashes. Best embodiment of the invention
[0031] After careful research, the inventors discovered that it is possible to offer a composition that can provide good makeup removal capabilities and a unique sensation when using.
[0032] Therefore, the present invention relates mainly to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition and, more preferably, a cosmetic cleansing composition, comprising:
[0033] (a) at least one glucomannan and
[0034] (b) at least one oil,
[0035] in which
[0036] the quantity of (a) glucomannan(s) in the composition is 0.5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0037] The composition according to the present invention can offer good makeup removal capabilities. Thus, the composition according to the present invention is suitable for cleansing a keratinous material such as skin.
[0038] Furthermore, the composition according to the present invention can offer a unique sensation during use, as it can generate aggregates that may be in the form of vermicelli during the use of the composition. For example, by massaging a keratinous material such as the skin on which the composition according to the present invention is located with the fingers, the composition according to the present invention can generate aggregates derived from (a) glucomannan that may be in the form of vermicelli. A user of the composition according to the present invention can have an enjoyable experience during use.
[0039] The aggregates which may be in the form of vermicelli generated by the composition according to the present invention may be soft and, consequently, the composition according to the present invention may also offer a feeling of comfort during use.
[0040] Furthermore, the aggregates, which may be in the form of vermicelli, generated by the composition according to the present invention can function as "exfoliating" particles. Thus, they can contribute to exfoliating the superficial layer of a keratinous material such as the surface of the stratum corneum of the skin. Consequently, the aggregates, which may be in the form of vermicelli, can contribute to effectively removing dirt or makeup from a keratinous material such as the skin. In addition, the aggregates, which may be in the form of vermicelli, can contribute to accelerating the renewal of the superficial layer of a keratinous material such as the surface of the stratum corneum of the skin. Therefore, the aggregates which They can be presented in the form of vermicelli and can also provide a feeling of freshness.
[0041] The aggregates, which can be in the form of vermicelli generated by the composition according to the present invention, can be formed from (a) glucomannan, which can be derived from natural resources. Thus, the composition according to the present invention is environmentally friendly.
[0042] The above effects and advantages offered by the composition according to the present invention can also be applied to the cosmetic process and use according to the present invention.
[0043] The present invention will be described in detail below. [Composition]
[0044] One aspect of the present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition and, more preferably, a cosmetic cleansing composition, comprising:
[0045] (a) at least one glucomannan and
[0046] (b) at least one oil,
[0047] in which
[0048] the quantity of (a) glucomannan(s) in the composition is 0.5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Glucomannan)
[0049] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one glucomannan. Only one type of glucomannan may be used, but two or more different types of glucomannans may be used in combination.
[0050] The (a) glucomannan may be selected from water-soluble glucomannan, water-insoluble glucomannan, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the (a) glucomannan is a mixture of water-soluble glucomannan and water-insoluble glucomannan.
[0051] The term "soluble in water" here means that (a) glucomannan can have a solubility in water at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) with water (pH=7) of 0.1 wt% or more, preferably 0.5 wt% or more and, more preferably, 1 wt% or more.
[0052] The expression "insoluble in water" here means that (a) glucomannan can have solubility in water at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) with water (pH=7) less than 0.1 wt%.
[0053] Glucomannan is a high molecular weight polysaccharide (typically 500,000 < Mw glucomannan < 2,000,000), composed of D-glucose and D-mannose motifs, in in which D-glucose and D-mannose are linked in a ratio of approximately 2:3 (1:1.6) via [3-1,4-glycosidic linkages.
[0054] Glucomannan is a substantially linear polysaccharide, but may have branching approximately every 50 or 60 motifs. A portion of the hydroxyl groups of the polysaccharide is acetylated.
[0055] Glucomannan can be found in wood, but it is also the main component of konjac gum. Thus, glucomannan can be derived from konjac (Amorphophallus konjac). Konjac (Amorphophallus konjac) is a plant in the Araceae family.
[0056] Glucomannan is initially soluble in water. Glucomannan originally obtained from konjac can be used as water-soluble glucomannan.
[0057] Water-soluble glucomannan can function as a thickener for the composition according to the present invention.
[0058] On the other hand, glucomannan can be treated to be insoluble in water. For example, JP-A-2000-344801 and JP-A-2006-169300 disclose a process for producing water-insoluble glucomannan.
[0059] For example, water-insoluble glucomannan can be prepared by following these steps: 1. Dissolving a flour rich in glucomannan in water to form a solution; 2. Mixing the solution with ethanol to precipitate glucomannan; 3. Addition of an alkali to the resulting mixture to transform the precipitated glucomannan particles into irreversible hydrogel particles insoluble in water; 4. Separation of glucomannan hydrogel particles from the liquid; 5. Drying of the separated hydrogel particles; and 6. Grinding and sieving the dried gel particles to a desired particle size.
[0060] The expression "glucomannan-rich flour" as used herein refers collectively to refined konjac flour, purified glucomannan flour and rapidly soluble konjac flour.
[0061] In step (1), the glucomannan-rich starting flour can be dissolved in water to form an aqueous solution. Since the glucomannan solution can be very viscous, its concentration can be less than 5% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 1.5% by weight.
[0062] In step (2), the glucomannan solution can be mixed with ethanol, preferably by gradually adding the solution to the ethanol with stirring, after which the glucomannan precipitates as fibrous particles.
[0063] Since glucomannan is not soluble in ethanol or an aqueous ethanolic mixture containing more than 30% by weight of ethanol, the weight ratio of ethanol to glucomannan solution can be at least 3:7.
[0064] In step (3), the precipitated glucomannan particles can react with an alkali to produce a water-insoluble, thermally irreversible hydrogel. The reaction can be carried out by adding an alkaline solution to the water-ethanol mixture containing the precipitated glucomannan. Any alkali such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, sodium carbonate, and potassium carbonate can be used. Saturated limewater is preferable, as is common practice in the production of edible konjac. Unlike edible konjac, glucomannan gels retain a fibrous, particulate form. This facilitates the separation of the gel from the liquid.
[0065] In step (4), the gel particles can be separated from the liquid in a centrifuge, for example, and washed at least once with aqueous ethanol. If necessary, the washing solution may contain a non-toxic organic acid such as acetic acid or citric acid to neutralize excess alkali.
[0066] In step (5), the gel particles thus separated can be thoroughly dried to remove most of the water in a conventional apparatus, preferably in a hot air dryer at about 105 °C or more.
[0067] In step (6), the dried gel particles can be ground and sieved to obtain a final product of a desired size.
[0068] Water-insoluble glucomannan may be in the form of gel particles. The particle size of water-insoluble glucomannan may be from 10 to 500 microns, preferably from 50 to 500 microns, and more preferably from 100 to 500 microns. The particle size may be volume-based.
[0069] Water-insoluble glucomannan can be deacetylated, due to the action of the alkali used during the process of preparing water-insoluble glucomannan.
[0070] Deacetylated water-insoluble glucomannan can easily aggregate due to hydrogen bonds between the hydroxyl groups of glucomannan molecules to form a gel.
[0071] If an alkali-earth metal hydroxide, such as Ca(OH)2, or a salt thereof, is used as the alkali, the water-insoluble glucomannan can be crosslinked by the divalent alkali-earth metal ion such as Ca 2+.
[0072] As (a) glucomannan, a commercially available product, such as the range of konjac flours sold by BLG (Shanghai Brilliant Gum Co., Ltd.) in China and Propol® ISLB sold by Shimizu Chemical in Japan, may be used.
[0073] The quantity of (a) glucomannan(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.5% by weight or more, preferably 1% by weight or more and, more preferably, 1.5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0074] The quantity of the (a) glucomannan(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and even better 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0075] The quantity of (a) glucomannan(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight and, more preferably, from 1.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Oil)
[0076] The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one oil. Only one type of oil may be used, or two or more different types of oils may be used in combination.
[0077] The (b) oil can form a fatty phase of the composition according to the present invention.
[0078] Here, "oil" means a fatty compound or oily substance that is in the form of a liquid or a paste (not a solid), preferably a liquid, at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). Oils commonly used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination.
[0079] The (b) oil may be volatile or non-volatile.
[0080] The (b) oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil or similar; a polar oil such as a vegetable or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.
[0081] The (b) oil may be chosen from the group consisting of oils of vegetable or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils and hydrocarbon oils.
[0082] Examples of vegetable oils include apricot oil, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.
[0083] Examples of animal oils include, for example, squalene and squalane.
[0084] Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils and artificial triglycerides.
[0085] The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, Ci-C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids, and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, Ci-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.
[0086] Preferably, for monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol and acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.
[0087] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate may be mentioned.
[0088] Esters of dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids in C4-C22 and alcohols in CrC22 and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and non-sugar dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols in C4-C26 can also be used.
[0089] Examples include: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate.
[0090] As ester oils, esters and sugar diesters of C6-C30 fatty acids, and preferably C2-C22, may be used. It should be noted that the term "sugar" refers to oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon compounds containing several alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups, and comprising at least four carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.
[0091] Examples of suitable sugars that may be cited include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose and derivatives thereof, including alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.
[0092] Sugar esters of fatty acids may be selected in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of acids Fatty carbons in the C6-C30 range, and preferably in the C12-C22 range, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. If unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0093] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, polyesters, and their mixtures.
[0094] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.
[0095] Monoesters and diesters are used in particular, and in particular monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.
[0096] An example that can be cited is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.
[0097] Examples of preferred ester oils include, for instance, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyle propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, stearate isocetyl, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.
[0098] Examples of ether oils include dialkyl ethers such as those represented by the following formula:
[0099] R'-O-R2
[0100] in which
[0101] each of R1 and R2 independently designates a linear, branched or cyclic C4 24 alkyl group, preferably a C6 i8 alkyl group and, more preferably, a Cx !2 alkyl group. It may be preferable that R1 and R2 be identical.
[0102] Examples of linear alkyl groups include a butyl group, a pentyl group, a hexyl group, a heptyl group, an octyl group, a nonyl group, a decyl group, an undecyl group, a dodecyl group, a tridecyl group, a tetradecyl group, a pentadecyl group, a hexadecyl group, a heptadecyl group, a octadecyl group, nonadecyl group, eicosyl group, behenyl group, docosyl group, tricosyl group and tetracosyl group.
[0103] Examples of branched alkyl groups include 1-methylpropyl, 2-methylpropyl, β-butyl, 1,1-dimethylpropyl, 3-methylhexyl, 5-methylhexyl, 1-ethylhexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, 1-butylpentyl, 5-methyloctyl, 1-ethylhexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, 1-butylpentyl, 5-methyloctyl, 1-ethylhexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, 1-butylpentyl, 5-methyloctyl, 2-butyloctyl, isotridecyl, 2-pentylnonyl, 2-hexyldecyl, isostearyl, 2-heptylundecyl, 2-octyldodecyl, 1,3-dimethylbutyl, and a group l-(l-methylethyl)-2-methylpropyl, a 1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl group, a 3,5,5-trimethylhexyl group, an l-(2-methylpropyl)-3-methylbutyl group, a 3,7-dimethyloctyl group and a 2-(l,3,3-trimethylbutyl)-5,7,7-trimethyloctyl group.
[0104] Examples of cyclic alkyl groups include a cyclohexyl group, a 3-methylcyclohexyl group and a 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl group.
[0105] It may be preferable that the ether oil be chosen from the group consisting of dicaprylyl ether, dicaprylic ether, dilaurylic ether, diisostearyl ether, dioctyl ether, nonyl phenyl ether, dodecyl dimethylbutyl ether, cetyl dimethylbutyl ether, cetyl isobutyl ether, and mixtures thereof.
[0106] It may be more preferable for the ether oil to be chosen from the group consisting of dicaprylyl ether, dicaprylyl ether, dilauryl ether, diisostearyl ether, dioctyl ether, and mixtures thereof.
[0107] Examples of artificial triglycerides include, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate) and glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate / linolenate).
[0108] Examples of silicone oils include linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenopolysiloxane and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.
[0109] Preferably, the silicone oil is selected from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.
[0110] These silicone oils can also be organo-modified. The organo-modified silicones that can be used according to the present invention are oils of silicone as defined above, and comprise in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.
[0111] Organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in Walter Noll's Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academy Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.
[0112] When volatile, silicones are particularly chosen from those having a boiling point between 60 °C and 260 °C, and even more particularly from:
[0113] (i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising 3 to 7 and preferably, of 4 to 5 silicon atoms. Examples include octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia; decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide and Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia; and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane, sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof. Also noteworthy are cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109, sold by Union Carbide, with the formula: Q. -- CH. 1------------------------- CH. rr with n» ■ — Si - O — and with ds ■ - Si - O — 'I । CH.
[0114] Other examples include mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,r-bis(2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane; and
[0115] (ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5 x 10⁶ m² / s at 25 °C. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane, sold in particular under the name SH 200 by Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27–32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of silicones is measured at 25 °C according to ASTM 445 Annex C.
[0116] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes may also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly selected from among the polydialkylsiloxanes, among of which we can mainly cite polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl terminal groups.
[0117] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following commercially available products may be cited, without limitation:
[0118] - Silbione® oils from ranges 47 and 70 047 or Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia, for example oil 70 047 V 500 000;
[0119] - the oils from the Mirasil® range sold by the company Rhodia;
[0120] - oils from the 200 series of Dow Corning, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60,000 mm² / s; and
[0121] - Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils in the SF range (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.
[0122] We can also mention polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol terminal groups known as dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils in the 48 range from the Rhodia company.
[0123] Among silicones containing aryl groups, we can mention polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as phenyl silicone oil.
[0124] The phenyl silicone oil may be selected from phenyl silicones of the following formula:
[0125] in which
[0126] - Ri in Rio are, independently of each other, radicals based of saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C1-C30 hydrocarbons, preferably C1-C12 hydrocarbon-based radicals, and more preferably C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based radicals, in particular methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl radicals, and
[0127] - m, n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers from 0 to 900 inclusive, preferably from 0 to 500 inclusive, and more preferably from 0 to 100 inclusive,
[0128] provided that the sum n+m+q is not equal to 0.
[0129] Examples that may be cited include products sold under the following names:
[0130] - Silbione® oils from the 70 641 range of Rhodia;
[0131] - the oils from the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 ranges from Rhodia;
[0132] - Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid oil from Dow Corning;
[0133] - silicones from the PK range of Bayer, such as product PK20;
[0134] - certain oils in the General Electric SF range, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.
[0135] As a phenyl silicone oil, phenyl trimethicone (Ri to R10 are methyl; p, q and n = 0; m=l in the formula above) is preferable.
[0136] Organomodified liquid silicones may, in particular, contain polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups. Examples include KF-6017 silicone offered by Shin-Etsu, and Silwet® L722 and L77 oils from Union Carbide.
[0137] The term “hydrocarbon” here refers to a compound formed by carbon and hydrogen atoms, and does not include any heteroatoms such as oxygen and nitrogen atoms.
[0138] The hydrocarbon oil may be volatile or non-volatile, preferably volatile.
[0139] The hydrocarbon oil may be of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, preferably of vegetable origin.
[0140] The hydrocarbon oil is preferably a nonpolar oil. The term "nonpolar oil" used here refers to an oil whose solubility parameter at 25 °C, ôa, is equal to 0 (J / cm3)1 / 2. The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in Hansen's three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article by C.M. Hansen: "The three-dimensional solubility parameters", J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967).
[0141] The hydrocarbon oil can be chosen from aliphatic hydrocarbon oils, alicyclic hydrocarbon oils and aromatic hydrocarbon oils, preferably aliphatic hydrocarbon oils and, more preferably, saturated aliphatic hydrocarbon oils.
[0142] Hydrocarbon oil can be volatile or non-volatile. It is preferable for the hydrocarbon oil to be volatile. In other words, it is preferable for the hydrocarbon oil to be a volatile hydrocarbon oil.
[0143] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "volatile oil" refers to an oil that is capable of evaporating upon contact with keratinous materials in less than one hour, at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). The volatile oil may be a liquid at room temperature, having in particular a non-zero vapor pressure, or at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, having in particular a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10³ to 300 mmHg), preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1,300 Pa (0.1 to 10 mmHg).
[0144] According to a preferred embodiment, the volatile hydrocarbon oil has a flash point above 65°C, and even better, above 80°C.
[0145] The hydrocarbon oil may be selected from C8-C22 branched hydrocarbons, preferably C9-C21 branched hydrocarbons, and more preferably, CiO-C2O branched alkanes (also known as isoparaffins). It is even more preferable that the hydrocarbon oil be selected from the group consisting of isodecane, isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), hydrogenated farnesene (hemisqualane), isohexadecane, and mixtures thereof.
[0146] On the other hand, the hydrocarbon oil can also be chosen from linear C8-C22 hydrocarbons, preferably linear C9-C21 hydrocarbons and, more preferably, linear CiO-C2O alkanes. It is even more preferable that the hydrocarbon oil be chosen from the group consisting of n-decane, n-undecane, n-dodecane, n-tridecane, n-tetradecane, n-pentadecane and n-hexadecane, n-heptadecane, n-octadecane, n-nonadecane and a mixture thereof.
[0147] As a hydrocarbon oil, one or more commercial products may be used. For example, C13-16 isoalkane, isohexadecane, C15-19 alkane and a mixture thereof may be used as a hydrocarbon oil.
[0148] In one embodiment, the hydrocarbon oil can be chosen from
[0149] - a mineral oil,
[0150] - a liquid paraffin or its derivatives,
[0151] - squalane or squalene,
[0152] - isoeicosan,
[0153] - naphthalene oil,
[0154] - polybutylenes such as Indopol H-100 (molar mass or MW = 965 g / mol), Indopol H-300 (MW = 1,340 g / mole) and Indopol H-1500 (MW = 2,160 g / mole) sold or manufactured by the company Amoco,
[0155] - polyisobutenes,
[0156] - hydrogenated polyisobutylenes such as Parleam® sold by the Nippon company Oil Fats, Panalane H-300 E sold or manufactured by Amoco (MW = 1340 g / mole), Viseal 20000 sold or manufactured by Synteal (MW = 6000 g / mole) and Rewopal PIB 1000 sold or manufactured by Witco (MW = 1000 g / mole), or Parleam Lite sold by NOF Corporation,
[0157] - decene / butene copolymers, polybutene / polyisobutene copolymers, including Indopol L-14,
[0158] - polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes such as: Puresyn 10 (MW = 723 g / mol) and Puresyn 150 (MW = 9,200 g / mol) sold or manufactured by Mobil Chemicals, or Puresyn 6 sold by ExxonMobil Chemical) and
[0159] - their mixtures.
[0160] In one embodiment, the (b) oil can be chosen from non-silicone oils.
[0161] It may be preferable to choose the (d) oil from among ester oils, ether oils, hydrocarbon oils and mixtures thereof.
[0162] It may be more preferable that (b) oil be chosen from esters of monoalcohols and monoacids, symmetrical ether oils, linear or branched alkanes with a carbon chain length of Cl 1 to C20 and mixtures thereof.
[0163] It may be even more preferable that (b) oil be chosen from the group consisting of C15-19 alkane, undecane, tridecane, isopropyl myristate, dicaprylyl ether and mixtures thereof.
[0164] The quantity of the (b) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or more, more preferably 3% by weight or more and, more preferably, 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0165] The quantity of the (b) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 40% by weight or less, more preferably 35% by weight or less, and more preferably 30% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0166] The quantity of the (b) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 1% to 40% by weight, more preferably from 3% to 35% by weight and more preferably from 5% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Water)
[0167] The composition according to the present invention may include (c) water.
[0168] (c) Water can form an aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention.
[0169] The quantity of (c) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 50% by weight or more, preferably 60% by weight or more and more preferably 70% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0170] Furthermore, the quantity of (c) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 95% by weight or less, preferably 93% by weight or less and more preferably 90% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0171] The quantity of (c) water in the composition according to the present invention can be from 50% to 95% by weight, preferably from 60% to 93% by weight, and more preferably from 70% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Emulsifier)
[0172] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (d) at least one emulsifier. Only one type of emulsifier may be used, or two or more different types of emulsifiers may be used in combination.
[0173] The (d) emulsifier can enable the composition according to the present invention to be carried out in the form of an emulsion.
[0174] It is preferable that the (d) emulsifier be biodegradable.
[0175] The quantity of the emulsifier(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.01% by weight or more and, more preferably, 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0176] Furthermore, the quantity of the emulsifier(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less and, more preferably, 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0177] The quantity of the emulsifier(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.001% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight and, more preferably, from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0178] The (d) emulsifier may be selected from (dl) polyglyceryl esters of fatty acids, (d2) gemini surfactants and mixtures thereof. Polyglyceryl esters of fatty acids
[0179] The (dl) polyglyceryl ester of fatty acid may be selected from mono, di and tri esters of linear or branched fatty acid, saturated or unsaturated, preferably of saturated fatty acid, including from 2 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 30 carbon atoms and, more preferably, from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, such as lauric acid, oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, capric acid, caprylic acid and myristic acid.
[0180] It may be preferable for the (dl) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester to have a polyglycerol fraction derived from 2 to 6 glycerols, more preferably from 4 to 6 glycerols, and even more preferably from 5 or 6 glycerols. In other words, it may be preferable for the (dl) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester to comprise 2 to 6 motifs polyglyceryl, more preferably 4 to 6 polyglyceryl motifs and, even more preferably, 5 or 6 polyglyceryl motifs.
[0181] The (dl) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be selected from the group consisting of PG2 caprylate, PG2 sesquicaprylate, PG2 dicaprylate, PG2 tricaprylate, PG2 caprate, PG2 sesquicaprate, PG2 dicaprate, PG2 tricaprate, PG2 laurate, PG2 sesquilaurate, PG2 dilaurate, PG2 trilaurate, PG2 myristate, PG2 sesquimyristate, PG2 dimyristate, PG2 trimyristate, PG2 stearate, PG2 sesquistearate, PG2 distearate, PG2 tristearate, PG2 isostearate, PG2 sesquiisostearate, PG2 diisostearate, PG2 triisostearate, PG2 oleate, PG2 sesquioleate, PG2 dioleate, PG2 trioleate, PG3 caprylate, PG3 sesquicaprylate, PG3 dicaprylate, PG3 tricaprylate, PG3 caprate, PG3 sesquicaprate, PG3 dicaprate, PG3 tricaprate, PG3 laurate, PG3 sesquilaurate, PG3 dilaurate, PG3 trilaurate, PG3 myristate, PG3 sesquimyristate, PG3 dimyristate, PG3 trimyristate, PG3 stearate, PG3 sesquistearate, PG3 distearate, PG3 Tristearate, PG3 isostearate, PG3 sesquiisostearate, PG3 diisostearate, PG3 triisostearate, PG3 oleate,PG3 sesquioléate, PG3 dioléate, PG3 trioléate, PG4 caprylate, PG4 sesquicaprylate, PG4 dicaprylate, PG4 tricaprylate, PG4 caprate, PG4 sesquicaprate, PG4 dicaprate, PG4 tricaprate, PG4 laurate, PG4 sesquilaurate, PG4 dilaurate, PG4 trilaurate, PG4 myristate, PG4 sesquimyristate, PG4 dimyristate, PG4 trimyristate, PG4 stéarate, PG4 sesquistéarate, PG4 distéarate, PG4 tristéarate, PG4 isostéarate, PG4 sesquiisostéarate, PG4 diisostéarate, PG4 triisostéarate, PG4 oléate, PG4 sesquioléate, PG4 dioléate, PG4 trioléate, PG5 caprylate, PG5 sesquicaprylate, PG5 dicaprylate, PG5 tricaprylate, PG5 tetracaprylate, PG5 caprate, PG5 sesquicaprate, PG5 dicaprate, PG5 tricaprate, PG5 tetracaprate, PG5 laurate, PG5 sesquilaurate, PG5 dilaurate, PG5 trilaurate, PG5 tetralaurate, PG5 myristate, PG5 sesquimyristate, PG5 dimyristate, PG5 trimyristate, PG5 tetramyristate, PG5 stéarate, PG5 sesquistéarate, PG5 distéarate, PG5 tristéarate, PG5 tetrastéarate, PG5 isostéarate, PG5 sesquiisostéarate,PG5 diisostearate, PG5 triisostearate, PG5 tetraisostearate, PG5 oleate, PG5 sesquioleate, PG5 dioleate, PG5 trioleate, PG5 tetraoleate, PG6 caprylate, PG6 sesquicaprylate, PG6 dicaprylate, PG6 tricaprylate, PG6 tetracaprylate, PG6 pentacaprylate, PG6 caprate, PG6 sesquicaprate, PG6 dicaprate, PG6 tricaprate, PG6 tetracaprate, PG6 pentacaprate, PG6 laurate, PG6 sesquilaurate, PG6 dilaurate, PG6 trilaurate, PG6 tetralaurate, PG6 pentalaurate, PG6 myristate, PG6 sesquimyristate, PG6 dimyristate, PG6 trimyristate, PG6 tetramyristate, PG6 pentamyristate, PG6 stearate, PG6 sesquistearate, PG6 distearate, PG6 tristearate, PG6 tetrastearate, PG6 pentastearate, PG6 isostearate, PG6 sesquiisostearate, PG6 diisostearate, PG6 triisostearate, PG6 tetraisostearate, PG6 pentaisostearate, PG6 oleate, PG6 sesquioleate, PG6 dioleate, PG6 trioleate, PG6 tetraoleate, PG6 pentaoleate, and mixtures thereof.
[0182] The (dl) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester may have an HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilie Balance) value of 4.0 to 16.0, preferably of 4.5 to 15.5 and, more preferably, of 5.0 to 15.0. If two or more fatty acid polyglyceryl esters are used, the HLB value is determined by the weighted average of the HLB values of all the fatty acid polyglyceryl esters.
[0183] The (dl) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester can be selected from fatty acid polyglyceryl monoesters, preferably from polyglyceryl caprate comprising 2 to 6 glycerol motifs, polyglyceryl oleate comprising 2 to 6 glycerol motifs, polyglyceryl caprylate comprising 2 to 6 glycerol motifs, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably polyglyceryl caprylate comprising 2 to 6 glycerol motifs.
[0184] The quantity of the (dl) polyglycerol fatty acid ester(s) (g) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% by weight or more and, more preferably, 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0185] Furthermore, the quantity of the (dl) polyglycerol fatty acid ester(s) (g) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0186] Thus, the total quantity of the (dl) polyglyceric fatty acid ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight and, more preferably, from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Gemini surfactants
[0187] (d2)gemini surfactants or dimeric surfactants are well known. For a detailed description of the various chemical structures and their physicochemical properties, reference may be made to the following publications:
[0188] Milton J. Rosen, Gemini Surfactants, Properties of surfactant molecules with two hydrophilic groups and two hydrophobic groups, Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine, Vol. 113, December 1998, pp. 49-55 and
[0189] Milton J. Rosen, Recent Developments in Gemini Surfactants, Allured's Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine, July 2001, Vol. 116, no. 7, pp. 67-70.
[0190] The (d2) gemini surfactant may be selected from compounds having two or more fatty amide groups (hereinafter referred to as the "amide compound"). The amide compound may be represented by the following formula (A): T (A) (Wp CHs(CHPi -CQNH ÇH CH—Y' (CHS}« NH CH3(CHg)j —COWH -CH (CH^ Y*
[0191] in which
[0192] - Y1 independently designates a carboxylic acid group or an alkali salt of a carboxylic acid group such as a sodium salt of a carboxylic acid group,
[0193] - j1, k1, j2 and k2 denote an integer such that (j1, k1, j2, k2) = any one of (2,0,2,0), (2,0,0,2), (0,2,2,0) and (0,2,0,2), and
[0194] 1 denotes an integer from 6 to 16, preferably from 8 to 14 and, more Preferably, from 10 to 12.
[0195] Preferably, in formula (A), L denotes an integer from 8 to 12, j1 = j2 = 0 and kl = k2 = 2.
[0196] Most preferably, in formula (A), Y1 is -COONa, j1 = j2 = 0, kl = k2 = 2; and L = 10.
[0197] The amide compound can be prepared, for example, by reacting a long-chain acidic n-acyl amino acid anhydride with a basic amino acid, such as lysine, in water and / or a mixed solvent of water and organic solvent(s), or in one or more inert organic solvents such as tetrahydrofuran, benzene, toluene, xylene, tetrachloromethane, chloroform, acetone or the like, or without any solvent, at -5 °C to 200 °C, preferably 5 °C to 100 °C, and more preferably 0 °C to 60 °C.
[0198] Examples of amide compounds include dilauramidoglutamide sodium lysine, dimyristoylglutamide sodium lysine and distearoylglutamide sodium lysine.
[0199] Dilauramidoglutamide sodium lysine is particularly preferred. Dilauramidoglutamide sodium lysine is marketed under the names Pellicer L-10 and L-30 by Asahi Kasei Fine Chem. Col., Ltd. as an aqueous solution at a concentration of 29% by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution; or under the name Pellicer LB-30G by Asahi Kasei Fine Chem. Co., Ltd. as a mixture of dilauramidoglutamide sodium lysine and butylene glycol.
[0200] In another embodiment, the (d2) gemini surfactants can also must conform to the following formula (I): ? o . he
[0201] in which:
[0202] - Ri and R3 represent, independently of each other, an alkyl radical comprising 1 to 25 carbon atoms;
[0203] - R2 represents a spacer group consisting of a linear alkylene chain or branched containing 1 to 12 carbon atoms;
[0204] - X and Y represent, independently of each other, a group -(C2H4O)a-(C3H6O) bZ, in which:
[0205] - Z represents a hydrogen atom or the radical -CH2-COOM, -SO3M, -P(O)(OM) 2, -C2H4-SO3M, -C3H6-SO3M or -CH2(CHOH)4CH2OH, in which M represents H or an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal ion or ammonium or alkanolammonium,
[0206] - a varies from 0 to 15, b varies from 0 to 10, and the sum of a+b varies from 1 to 25; and
[0207] - n varies from 1 to 10.
[0208] The (d2) gemini surfactant of formula (I) is preferably such that each of the The RrCO- and R3-CO- groups comprise 8 to 20 carbon atoms, and preferably represent a coconut fatty acid residue (mainly lauric acid and myristic acid).
[0209] Moreover, this surfactant is preferably such that, for each of the radicals X and Y, the sum of a and ba has an average value that varies from 10 to 20 and is preferably equal to 15. A preferred group for Z is the —SO3M group, where M is preferably an alkali metal ion such as the sodium ion.
[0210] The spacer R2 advantageously consists of a linear alkylene chain CrC3 and preferably an ethylene chain (CH2CH2). Finally, n is advantageously equal to 1.
[0211] A surfactant of this type is in particular that identified by the INCI name: Sodium dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 sulfate, having the following structure: O It x(PEG-15)~“SOqNa cocoyl—C—N O2 O2 eocoyi—CN —(pEG45) —so3Xa O
[0212] it being understood that PEG represents the group -CH2CH2O- and that "cocoyl" represents the fatty acid residue of coconut.
[0213] This surfactant has a molecular structure that is very similar to that of ceramide-3.
[0214] Preferably, the (d2) gemini surfactant of formula (I) can be used in mixture with other surfactants and in particular in mixture with (a) an ester of a C6-C22 fatty acid (preferably a Ci4-C20 such as stearate) and glyceryl, (b) a diester of a C6-C22 fatty acid (preferably a Ci4-C20 such as stearate) and citric acid and glycerol (in particular an ester of a C6-C22 fatty acid and glyceryl monocitrate), and (c) a C10-C30 fatty alcohol (preferably behenyl alcohol).
[0215] Advantageously, the composition according to the present invention comprises a mixture of sodium PEG-15 dicocoylethylenediamine sulfate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate monocitrate and behenyl alcohol.
[0216] For example, the (d2) gemini surfactant of formula (I) can be used in mixture with other surfactants in the form of products sold by Sasol under the trade name Ceralution®, such as in particular the following products:
[0217] Ceralution® H: Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate and Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 Sulfate (INCI name),
[0218] Ceralution® F: Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate and Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 Sulfate (INCI name), and
[0219] Ceralution® C: Aqua, Capric / Caprylic triglyceride, Glycerin, Ceteareth-25, Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 Sulfate, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Gum Arabia, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Butylparaben, Isobutylparaben (INCI names).
[0220] The (d2) gemini surfactant of formula (I) may represent from 3% to 50% by weight of the above mixtures. Preferably, the composition according to the present invention may comprise, as (d2) gemini surfactant of formula (I), a raw material bearing the INCI name: Behenyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate citrate and sodium dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 sulfate, sold under the trade name Ceralution® H by Sasol.
[0221] The quantity of the (d2) gemini surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.01% by weight or more and, more preferably, 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0222] Furthermore, the quantity of the (d2) gemini surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight. weight or less and, more preferably, 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0223] Thus, the quantity of the (d2) gemini surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight and, more preferably, from 0.01% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Other ingredients)
[0224] The composition according to the present invention may also include at least one optional or additional ingredient.
[0225] The optional or additional ingredient(s) may be selected from the group consisting of cationic, anionic, non-ionic or amphoteric surfactants other than (d) emulsifier; lipophilic or hydrophilic thickeners other than ingredient (a) above, perfumes; preservatives, co-preservatives, stabilizers and mixtures thereof.
[0226] The quantity of the optional ingredient or ingredients) or additional ingredient(s) is not limited, but may be from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 20% by weight and, more preferably, from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention.
[0227] In one embodiment, the composition according to the present invention may be substantially silicone-free. The expression "substantially silicone-free" means that the composition according to the present invention does not comprise silicone, or comprises at least one silicone in an amount of 1% by weight or less, preferably 0.1% by weight or less, and more preferably 0.01% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0228] In another embodiment, the composition according to the present invention may be substantially free of fatty alcohols. The term "substantially free of fatty alcohols" means that the composition according to the present invention does not comprise any fatty alcohol, or comprises at least one fatty alcohol in an amount of 1% by weight or less, preferably 0.1% by weight or less and, more preferably, 0.01% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0229] Fatty alcohol is a monovalent alcohol. The term "fatty" in fatty alcohol means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols that have 4 or more carbon atoms, preferably 6 or more carbon atoms, and more preferably 12 or more carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, and octyldodecanol, are encompassed within the scope of fatty alcohols. (Methods of implementation)
[0230] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition:
[0231] from 0.5% to 15% by weight of (a) at least one glucomannan and
[0232] from 1% to 40% by weight of (b) at least one oil.
[0233] According to another more preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present The invention comprises, in relation to the total weight of the composition:
[0234] of 1% to 10% by weight of (a) at least one glucomannan and
[0235] from 3% to 35% by weight of (b) at least one oil selected from ester oils, Ether oils, hydrocarbon oils and their mixtures.
[0236] According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition:
[0237] of 1.5% to 5% by weight of (a) at least one glucomannan; and
[0238] from 5% to 30% by weight of (b) at least one oil selected from the group consisting in esters of monoalcohols and monoacids, dialkyl ethers, linear or branched alkanes with a carbon chain length from Cl 1 to C20, and their mixtures.
[0239] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition:
[0240] of 1% to 3% by weight of (a) at least one glucomannan; and
[0241] from 5% to 30% by weight of (c) at least one oil selected from the group consisting in C15-19 alkane, undecane, tridecane, isopropyl myristate, dicaprylyl ether and mixtures thereof. [Preparation]
[0242] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential ingredient(s) as explained above, and the optional ingredient(s), if applicable, as explained above.
[0243] The method and means for mixing the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention. [Shape]
[0244] The composition according to the present invention can be in various forms.
[0245] If the composition according to the present invention includes (c) water, in one embodiment, the composition according to the present invention may be, for example, in the form of a fluid such as an aqueous solution or a dispersion. The appearance of the composition according to the present invention may, in this case, be a gel, since (a) glucomannan can function as a thickener, if glucomannan is soluble in water.
[0246] If the composition according to the present invention includes (c) water and (d) an emulsifier, in another embodiment the composition according to the present invention may be in the form of an emulsion, preferably an H / W emulsion or a W / O emulsion and, more preferably, an H / W emulsion.
[0247] The composition according to the present invention, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, may comprise dispersed fatty phases, such as oily phases dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase. The dispersed fatty phases may be in the form of oil droplets in the aqueous phase. Preferably, the composition according to the present invention may be in the form of an oil-in-water gel emulsion.
[0248] The H / W architecture or structure, which consists of fatty phases dispersed in an aqueous phase, has an external aqueous phase, and consequently, the composition according to the present invention having the H / W architecture or structure can provide a pleasant sensation during use due to the immediate feeling of freshness that the aqueous phase can provide.
[0249] On the other hand, the composition according to the present invention may have two visually distinct phases. One of the two phases is an oily phase and the other is an aqueous phase. The two phases may take the form of two layers. The two layers may be stratified or stacked. Typically, the oily phase or oily layer is present on top of the aqueous phase or aqueous layer, because the ingredient or ingredients in the oily phase have a density relatively lower than that of water.
[0250] The composition according to the present invention with two visually distinct phases may be called a “two-phase” or “biphasic” composition.
[0251] If the density of the oil phase is less than that of the aqueous phase, the oil phase is present on the aqueous phase in the composition according to the present invention. Typically, the oil phase is present on the aqueous phase at rest, because the density of oil tends to be less than that of water.
[0252] The two-phase composition according to the present invention can be transformed into a one-phase composition when mixed. The composition according to the present invention after mixing can be of the O / W or W / H type, preferably in the form of an O / W or W / H liquid composition and, more preferably, in the form of an O / W or W / H emulsion.
[0253] The biphasic composition according to the present invention comprises two visually distinct phases when unmixed. However, the biphasic composition according to the present invention can be transformed into a monophasic composition when mixed during use. The monophasic composition, such as an emulsion, can offer good cosmetic effects such as good makeup removal capabilities, without discomfort such as stickiness. A single-phase composition can revert to a two-phase composition when not in use.
[0254] The oily phase in the composition according to the present invention may further comprise any hydrophobic ingredient in addition to (b) oil.
[0255] For example, the oil phase of the composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one lipophilic or liposoluble cosmetic active ingredient. Only one type of such cosmetic active ingredient may be used, but two or more different types of such a cosmetic active ingredient may be used in combination.
[0256] The quantity of the fat phase in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 5% by weight or more, and more preferably 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0257] The quantity of the fat phase in the composition according to the present invention may be 50% by weight or less, preferably 45% by weight or less and more preferably 40% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0258] The quantity of the fat phase in the composition according to the present invention can be from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 5% to 45% by weight and, more preferably, from 10% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0259] The aqueous phase, if any, in the composition according to the present invention may further comprise any hydrophilic ingredient in addition to (c) water.
[0260] For example, the aqueous phase, if any, of the composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one hydrophilic or water-soluble cosmetic active ingredient. Only one type of such cosmetic active ingredient may be used, or two or more different types of such a cosmetic active ingredient may be used in combination.
[0261] Furthermore, the aqueous phase may include at least one pH adjuster such as an acid and a base, and / or at least one organic solvent such as a diol and a polyol.
[0262] The quantity of the fat phase in the composition according to the present invention may be 50% by weight or more, preferably 60% by weight or more and; more preferably, 70% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0263] The quantity of the fat phase in the composition according to the present invention may be 99% by weight or less, preferably 95% by weight or less and more preferably 93% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0264] The quantity of the fat phase in the composition according to the present invention can be from 50% to 99% by weight, preferably from 60% to 95% by weight and, more preferably, from 70% to 93% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0265] The weight ratio between the oil phase and the aqueous phase can be from 50 / 50 to 1 / 99, preferably from 50 / 50 to 5 / 95 and, more preferably, from 50 / 50 to 10 / 90. [Application]
[0266] The composition according to the present invention may be a cosmetic composition, preferably a cosmetic composition for cleansing and, more preferably, a cosmetic composition for cleansing keratinous material.
[0267] Keratinous material can be skin, nails, mucous membranes such as lips, or keratin fibers such as eyebrows and eyelashes. Skin here includes facial skin, neck skin, and scalp. The composition according to the present invention can also be used for mucous membranes such as lips.
[0268] The composition according to the present invention can be classified as so-called "scrub" products which may be similar to exfoliating products, including "exfoliating" particles which are useful for physical exfoliation (removal of the surface of the stratum corneum of the skin).
[0269] If the composition according to the present invention is the biphasic composition as explained above, it can be mixed, for example, by shaking by hand (manual shaking). After mixing the composition according to the present invention, the composition can form a monophasic composition. The monophasic composition can be applied to a keratinous material to achieve targeted cosmetic effects.
[0270] The composition according to the present invention can offer cosmetic effects such as makeup removal.
[0271] The composition according to the present invention can be used as is (as a topical product), or can be used by being impregnated in a porous substrate such as a non-woven fabric and a wipe, preferably made from cellulose fibers such as cotton. [Process]
[0272] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating keratinous material, such as skin, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratinous material.
[0273] If the composition according to the present invention is the biphasic composition as explained above, the cosmetic process for a keratinous material according to the present invention may comprise, at least, the following steps
[0274] mixing the composition according to the present invention to form a single-phase composition and
[0275] application of the single-phase composition on keratinous material.
[0276] A single-phase composition does not have two visually distinct phases. Instead, a single-phase composition has a single phase, which is usually an emulsion phase. The emulsion phase may not be transparent, but it may be translucent or opaque.
[0277] The cosmetic process according to the present invention may further include the step of massaging the keratinous material.
[0278] By massaging the keratinous material, the composition according to the present invention can easily form vermicelli-like particles. The vermicelli-like particles can function as "exfoliating" particles.
[0279] The cosmetic process according to the present invention can be used to clean keratinous material, preferably to remove makeup from keratinous material, and more preferably to remove makeup from skin or eyelashes. [Use]
[0280] The present invention also relates to the use of the composition as described above for removing makeup from keratinous material and, more preferably, for removing makeup from skin or eyelashes.
[0281] In addition, the present invention also relates to the use of the composition as described above as a scrubbing product for keratinous material.
[0282] The present invention may also relate to a use of:
[0283] (a) at least one glucomannan
[0284] in a composition comprising (b) at least one oil,
[0285] in which
[0286] the amount of (a) glycomannan in the composition is 0.5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition,
[0287] in order to generate aggregates derived from (a) glucomannan.
[0288] The above composition may further include one, two or all of the ingredients (c) and (d) as described above.
[0289] The above aggregates, which may be in the form of vermicelli, can function as "exfoliating" particles.
[0290] The composition in use according to the present invention can be used to clean keratinous material, preferably to remove makeup from keratinous material, and more preferably to remove makeup from the skin. EXAMPLES
[0291] The present invention will be described in more detail by means of examples. However, these examples shall not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention. Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 [Preparation]
[0292] Each of the hair compositions according to Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 was prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 1. The numerical values for the quantities of the ingredients are all based on the "% by weight" as active raw materials.
[0293] [Tables 1] Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Ex. comp. 1 Ex. comp. 2 Ex. com p. 3 Glucomannan(1) 2 2 2 - 2 0.2 Glucomannan(2) 0.5 - 0.5 - 0.5 - C15-19 Alkane 7.5 7.5 - 7.5 - 7.5 Undecane (and) tridecane 12.5 12.5 - 12.5 - 12.5 Isopropyl Myristate - - 12.5 - - - Dicaprylyl Ether - - 7.5 - - - Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 Dilauramidoglutamide Sodium Lysine 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Water q.s. 10 0 q.s. 10 0 q.s. 10 0 q.s. 10 0 q.s. 100 q.s. 100 q.s. 100 q.s. 100 Makeup removal capacity 60% 56% 60% 35% 20% 20% Sprinkle generation Yes Yes Yes No Yes No
[0294] (1) Konjac flour sold by BLG
[0295] (2) Propol® ISLB sold by Shimizu Chemical [Assessment] (Makeup removal capacity)
[0296] Firstly, false eyelashes were provided. The original weight of the false eyelashes was measured.
[0297] Secondly, waterproof mascara was applied to the false eyelashes. After the waterproof mascara had dried, the weight of the false eyelashes coated with the waterproof mascara was measured.
[0298] Next, the quantity (A) of waterproof mascara on the eyelashes was determined by subtracting the original weight of the false eyelashes from the weight of the false eyelashes coated with waterproof mascara.
[0299] Third, the false eyelashes were wiped 40 times with a wipe containing the same quantity of each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3. After wiping, the false eyelashes were washed with water and dried. Then, the weight of the false eyelashes after wiping was measured.
[0300] The quantity (B) of waterproof mascara remaining on the eyelashes was determined by subtracting the original weight of the false eyelashes from the weight of the false eyelashes after wiping.
[0301] The makeup removal capacity (%) was determined by (AB) / A.
[0302] The results are shown in Table 1.
[0303] The higher value (%) in "makeup removal capacity" in Table 1 indicates a higher makeup removal capacity, meaning that a greater amount of waterproof mascara has been removed. (Generation of vermicelli)
[0304] Each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 was applied to one hand and massaged with the fingers. The generation of aggregates in the form of vermicelli was observed and evaluated according to the following criteria.
[0305] Yes: Vermicelli have been generated.
[0306] No: No vermicelli were generated.
[0307] The results are shown in Table 1. (Summary)
[0308] Table 1 shows that the compositions according to Examples 1 to 3 can offer a higher makeup removal capacity than the compositions according to Comparative Examples 1 to 3 which included, respectively, no glucomannan, no oil or a sufficient amount of glucomannan.
[0309] Table 1 also shows that the compositions according to Examples 1 to 3 can generate vermicelli while the compositions according to Comparative Example 1 which did not include glucomannan could not generate vermicelli and could not offer good makeup removal capacity.
[0310] The composition according to Comparative Example 2, which included glucomannans, generated vermicelli, but could not offer good makeup removal capacity because it did not include any oil.
[0311] The composition according to Comparative Example 3, which included glucomannans in an amount less than 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, could not generate vermicelli and could not offer good makeup removal capacity.
Claims
Demands
1. Composition, preferably a cosmetic composition and, more preferably, a cosmetic cleansing composition, comprising: (a) at least one glucomannan and (b) at least one oil, wherein the amount of (a) glucomannan(s) in the composition is 0.5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein (a) glucomannan is selected from water-soluble glucomannan, water-insoluble glucomannan and mixtures thereof.
3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein (a) glucomannan is derived from konjac.
4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein (b) oil is selected from ester oils, ether oils, hydrocarbon oils and mixtures thereof, preferably from esters of monoalcohols and monoacids, dialkyl ethers, linear or branched alkanes with a carbon chain length of Cl 1 to C20, and mixtures thereof and, more preferably, from the group consisting of C15-19 alkane, undecane, tridecane isopropyl myristate, dicaprylyl ether and mixtures thereof.
5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, further comprising (c) water, preferably in an amount of 50% to 95% by weight, more preferably 60% to 93% by weight and, even more preferably 70% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, further comprising (d) at least one emulsifier.
7. Composition according to claim 6, wherein the (d) emulsifier is selected from (dl) fatty acid polyglyceryl esters, (d2) gemini surfactants and mixtures thereof.
8. Cosmetic process for a keratinous material, such as skin, comprising the step of applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7 on the keratinous material.
9. Cosmetic process according to claim 8, further comprising the step of massaging the keratinous material.
10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7: - from 0.5% to 15% by weight of (a) at least one glucomannan and - from 1% to 40% by weight of (b) at least one oil, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Citation Information
Patent Citations
Preparation and application of water-insoluble glucomannan gel particle
JP2000344801A
Method for producing glucomannan gel particle
JP2006169300A