Skincare and / or makeup composition of keratinous materials

A composition with specific fatty and thickening agents stabilizes colorants in lip care and makeup products, addressing sedimentation issues at high temperatures, ensuring long-term product stability.

FR3166290A3Pending Publication Date: 2026-03-20LOREAL SA
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Patent Information

Authority / Receiving Office
FR · FR
Patent Type
Utility models
Current Assignee / Owner
Filing Date
2024-10-22
Publication Date
2026-03-20

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing lip care and makeup compositions face challenges in stabilizing colorants, particularly at elevated temperatures, leading to premature sedimentation.

Method used

A composition comprising a fatty compound with a melting point above 35°C, a thickener with a melting point above 55°C, and a colorant, which maintains stability for extended periods, including at high temperatures.

Benefits of technology

The composition ensures long-term stability of colorants, preventing sedimentation even at 45°C, enhancing the durability of lip care and makeup products.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.
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Abstract

Skincare and / or makeup composition of keratinous materials. The present invention relates to a composition, preferably for skincare and / or makeup, of keratinous materials, comprising: (a) at least one fatty compound having a melting point not less than 35 °C; (b) at least one thickener having a melting point not less than 55 °C; and (c) at least one colorant. Figure for the abstract: none
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Description

Title of the invention: Skincare and / or makeup composition of keratinous materials. Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition. Preferably, the present invention relates to a skincare and / or makeup composition for keratinous materials. The present invention also relates to a method for skincare and / or makeup application of keratinous materials. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] Skin and / or lip care and / or makeup compositions are produced to meet the needs for skin and / or lip care and / or makeup. In particular, consumers seek a lip care and makeup product that provides good lip revitalization. It is known to formulate products such as lip gloss, lip oil, or other types of anhydrous lip compositions for the purpose of lip care and / or makeup application.

[0003] Currently, those skilled in the art are working on developing a stable and colored lip formulation. It is desirable that the oil base in the lip formulation be able to stably suspend colorants, including various dyes and pigments, even for extended periods. However, there are production challenges in such lip formulations that could prevent the premature onset of colorant sedimentation, particularly at elevated temperatures.

[0004] Therefore, there is a need for a composition, preferably for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, especially of the lips, which includes at least one colorant and is stable when stored for a long time, for example 15 days or more, even at a high temperature, for example 45°C. Summary of the invention

[0005] The inventors have discovered that such a need can be satisfied by the composition according to the present invention.

[0006] According to a first aspect, the present invention proposes a composition, preferably for skincare and / or makeup, of keratinous materials, comprising: a. at least one fatty compound having a melting point not lower than 35 °C; b. at least one thickener having a melting point not lower than 55 °C; and c. at least one colorant.

[0007] The composition according to the present invention is stable when stored for a long period, for example 15 days or more, even at a high temperature, for example 45 °C.

[0008] According to a second aspect, the present invention relates to a method for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, preferably of the lips, comprising: the application of the composition according to the first aspect on the keratinous materials.

[0009] Other subjects and features, aspects and advantages of the present invention will become even clearer upon reading the detailed description and examples that follow. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0010] In what follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values ​​are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between...and..." and "from...to...".

[0011] The articles “a” and “an,” as used herein, mean one or more when applied to any particular feature in embodiments of the present invention described in the specification and the claims. The use of “a” and “an” does not limit the meaning to a single feature unless such a limitation is specifically stated. Furthermore, the expression “at least one” used in this description is equivalent to the expression “one or more.”

[0012] Throughout this application, the term "comprising" shall be interpreted as encompassing all the specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, unspecified features. As used herein, the use of the term "comprising" also discloses the embodiment in which no material features or even any features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (such as "essentially consisting of" or "consisting of"). In the case of "essentially consisting of," any additional composition, material, and / or component that materially affects the fundamental and new features is excluded from such an embodiment, but any composition, material, and / or component that does not materially affect the fundamental and new features may be included in the embodiment.

[0013] Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values ​​expressing a quantity of ingredients and other substances used in the description and claims shall be understood as modified by the term "approximately". Consequently, unless otherwise indicated, the numerical values ​​and parameters described herein are approximate values ​​that may be modified depending on performance desired result obtained as required. The term "approximately" referring to a certain value is meant to denote a range within ± 5% of the value, for example: within ± 3%, ± 2%, ± 1% and ± 0.5% of the value.

[0014] As used herein, the expression "keratinous material(s)" refers to the skin and lips. "Skin" includes all skin on the body, including the scalp. Preferably, the keratinous material(s) refers to the lips.

[0015] As used herein, the term “lipophilic” means a substance which is soluble or dispersible in oil(s) at a concentration of at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the oil or oils at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). Fatty compounds

[0016] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one fatty compound having a melting point not less than 35°C.

[0017] Preferably, the fatty compound is chosen from waxes, pasty fatty compounds, and mixtures thereof. Waxes

[0018] The composition according to the invention may include at least one wax having a melting point not less than 35°C.

[0019] According to the present invention, the term "wax" means a lipophilic solid fatty compound with reversible solid / liquid phase change, which is solid at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

[0020] For the purposes of the invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed during thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a Differential Scanning Calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC Q2000 by TA Instruments.

[0021] The measurement protocol is as follows:

[0022] A sample of approximately 5 mg of wax is placed in a crucible in a "hermetically sealed aluminum capsule".

[0023] The sample is subjected to a first temperature increase from -20 °C to 120 °C at a heating rate of 10 °C / minute, then cooled from 120 °C to -20 °C at a cooling rate of 10 °C / minute, and finally subjected to a second temperature increase from -20 °C to 120 °C at a heating rate of 5 °C / minute. During the second temperature increase, the melting point of the fatty compound is measured, which corresponds to the value of the peak at the... plus endothermic observed on the melting curve, representing the variation of the difference in absorbed power as a function of temperature.

[0024] Preferably, the wax has a melting point between 35 °C and 120 °C, more preferably between 40 °C and 100 °C, and even more preferably from 40 to 90 °C.

[0025] According to the present invention, the wax can be chosen from non-polar hydrocarbon-based waxes, ester hydrocarbon-based waxes, and also their mixtures.

[0026] Among nonpolar hydrocarbon-based waxes (i.e. waxes comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms in their structure), we can mention polyethylene waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, polymethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, and also their mixtures.

[0027] Among the waxes based on hydrocarbon esters, we can mention fatty acid monoesters, dicarboxylic acid diesters, total esters of glycerol and a Ci4-C30 carboxylic acid, these waxes not comprising any free hydroxyl group; waxes of animal or vegetable origin; waxes obtained by hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils; and also their mixtures.

[0028] For the purposes of the invention, the expression "total esters of glycerol and a C14-C30 carboxylic acid" means that each hydroxyl group of glycerol forms an ester with the C14-C30 carboxylic acid.

[0029] In one aspect, monoester waxes of fatty acids with the formula Ri COOR2, in which Ri and R2 are identical or different, represent linear, branched, or cyclic aliphatic chains in which the number of atoms ranges from 10 to 50, and may contain a heteroatom, preferably oxygen. For example, cetyl palmitate and C2O-C4O alkyl stearates can be used as waxes. Such waxes may be sold under the name Kester Wax® K82H by Koster Keunen. Mixtures of Ci4-Ci8 carboxylic acid esters and alcohols can also be used, such as Koster Keunen's Cetyl Ester Wax 814, Croda's SP Crodamol MS MB AL and Crodamol MS PA, and Laserson's Miraceti.

[0030] Dicarboxylic acid diester waxes of general formula R3-(-OCO-R4-COO-R5), wherein R3 and R5 are identical or different, preferably identical, and represent a C4-C30 alkyl group, and R4 represents a linear or branched C4-C30 aliphatic group which may or may not contain one or more unsaturates, are also suitable for use as ester waxes. Preferably, the C4-C30 aliphatic group is linear and unsaturated.

[0031] We can also mention total esters of glycerol and a carboxylic acid in Ci6-C3o, for example tristearin (or glyceryl tristearate) or tribehenin (or glyceryl tribehenate), alone or in mixture.

[0032] In another aspect, we can mention waxes of animal or vegetable origin, for example camauba wax, beeswax, synthetic beeswax, candelilla wax, lanolin wax, rice bran wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, berry wax, olive wax, vegetable wax, shellac wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax, sumac wax, montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, laurel wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, orange peel wax or Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (orange) peel wax, sunflower wax or Helianthus Annuus (sunflower) wax, and mixtures thereof.

[0033] We can also mention waxes obtained by hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils. Preferably, waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of vegetable oils containing preferably linear or branched C8-C32 fatty acid chains, for example such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil or hydrogenated coconut oil, and also waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol or behenyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax® Ricin 16L64 and Phytowax® Ricin 22L73 by the company Sophim. Such waxes are described in patent application FR 2 792 190. Examples of waxes obtained by hydrogenation of esterified olive oil with stearyl alcohol or lauryl alcohol include those sold under the name Phytowax® Olive 18 L 57 or Phytowax® Olive 12 L 44.We can also mention waxes in the form of mixtures, for example waxes obtained by hydrogenation of more than one vegetable oil, preferably by hydrogenation of palm oil and rapeseed oil, for example, hydrogenated vegetable oil sold under the trade name Cegesoft HF 52 by BASF, and hydrogenated rapeseed oil (and) hydrogenated palm oil sold under the trade name Dermofeel® Viscolid MB by Dr. Straetmans (Evonik).

[0034] Preferably, the wax is chosen from non-polar hydrocarbon-based waxes, ester hydrocarbon-based waxes, and mixtures thereof, and preferably ester hydrocarbon-based waxes.

[0035] More preferably, the wax is chosen from waxes of animal or vegetable origin, waxes obtained by hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils, and their mixtures.

[0036] More preferably, the wax is chosen from among waxes of vegetable origin, waxes obtained by hydrogenation of vegetable oil(s), and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the wax is chosen from sunflower wax, waxes obtained by hydrogenation of more than one vegetable oil, preferably by hydrogenation of palm oil and rapeseed oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0037] Even more preferably, the wax is chosen from Helianthus Annuus (sunflower) seed wax, for example, that sold under the trade name E00167 Sunflower Wax by the company Koster Keunen, a hydrogenated vegetable oil, for example, that sold under the trade name Cegesoft HF 52 by the company BASF, a hydrogenated rapeseed oil (and) Hydrogenated palm oil, for example, that sold under the trade name Dermofeel® Viscolid MB by the company Dr. Straetmans (Evonik), and mixtures thereof. Pasty fatty compounds

[0038] The composition according to the invention may include at least one pasty fatty compound having a melting point not less than 35°C.

[0039] According to the present invention, the expression "pasty fatty compound" designates a lipophilic fatty compound which undergoes a reversible solid / liquid change of state, comprising at a temperature of 25 °C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

[0040] Preferably, the pasty fatty compound has a melting point between 35 and 60 °C, more preferably between 35 and 50 °C and even more preferably between 35 and 45 °C.

[0041] The measurement protocol for determining the melting point of the pasty fatty compound is presented as follows:

[0042] A 5 mg sample of pasty fatty compound placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise from -20 °C to 100 °C, at a heating rate of 10 °C / minute, it is then cooled from 100 °C to -20 °C at a cooling rate of 10 °C / minute and is finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -20 °C to 100 °C at a heating rate of 5 °C / minute.

[0043] The melting point of the pasty fatty compound is the temperature value corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation of the difference in absorbed power as a function of temperature.

[0044] It should be noted that the liquid fraction by weight of the pasty fatty compound at room temperature is equal to the ratio between the heat of fusion consumed at room temperature and the heat of fusion of the pasty fatty compound.

[0045] The heat of fusion of the pasty fatty compound is the heat consumed by said compound to change from a solid to a liquid state. The pasty fatty compound is said to be in a solid state when all of its mass is in crystalline solid form. The pasty fatty compound is said to be in a liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form.

[0046] The heat of fusion of the pasty fat compound is the amount of energy required to change the pasty fat compound from a solid to a liquid state. It is expressed in J / g. The heat of fusion of the pasty fat compound is equal to the value shown on the thermogram curve.

[0047] Among the pasty fatty compounds that can be used in the composition according to the invention, petroleum jelly (INCI name: petrolatum) can be cited among the pasty compounds based on nonpolar hydrocarbons (in other words, compounds comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms in their structure).

[0048] Among the pasty compounds based on ester hydrocarbons, lanolins and their derivatives, for example acetylated lanolins, can be used.

[0049] Vegetable butters, for example apricot butter, mango butter, kokum butter, palm butter, illipe butter, irvingia gabonensis kernel butter, avocado butter, kpangnan butter, combo butter, jojoba butter, shorea robusta seed butter, ucuuba butter, coffee butter, olive butter, almond butter, and mixtures thereof, are also suitable for use.

[0050] Preferably, the pasty fatty compound is selected from nonpolar hydrocarbon-based pasty compounds, ester hydrocarbon-based pasty compounds, and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the pasty fatty compound is selected from ester hydrocarbon-based pasty compounds, and preferably butters of vegetable origin. Even more preferably, the pasty fatty compound is Irvingia gabonensis kernel butter, for example, that sold under the trade name Irwinol LS 9890 by BASF Beauty Care Solutions.

[0051] Advantageously, the fatty compound having a melting point not less than 35°C is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% by weight to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. If present, the wax is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. If present, the pasty fatty compound is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% by weight to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Thickeners

[0052] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one thickener having a melting point not less than 55°C.

[0053] Preferably, said thickener having a melting point not less than 55 °C has a melting point ranging from 58 °C to 90 °C, preferably ranging from 60 °C to 80 °C, and more preferably ranging from 60 °C to 75 °C.

[0054] The melting point can be measured by any known method and preferably using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC Q2000 by TA Instruments.

[0055] According to the present invention, the thickeners can be independently of semi-crystalline or crystalline lipophilic polymers.

[0056] Preferably, the thickener is selected from semi-crystalline polymers. The term "semi-crystalline polymer" means polymers comprising a crystallizable portion, such as a crystallizable pendant and / or terminal chain or a crystallizable block in the backbone and / or at the ends, and an amorphous portion in the backbone, and having a reversible first-order phase change temperature, preferably a melting (solid-liquid transition) temperature. When the crystallizable portion is in the form of a crystallizable block of the polymer backbone, the amorphous portion of the polymer is in the form of an amorphous block; the semi-crystalline polymer is, in this case, a block polymer, for example, of the diblock, triblock, or multiblock type, comprising at least one crystallizable block and at least one amorphous block. The term "block" generally means at least five identical repeating units.The expression "multiblock copolymer" means that there are at least four blocks in the block copolymer. The crystallizable block(s) is / are then of a different chemical nature than the amorphous block(s).

[0057] Advantageously, the semi-crystalline polymer(s) to which the present invention applies has a number average molecular mass greater than or equal to 1000.

[0058] More advantageously, the semi-crystalline polymer(s) to which the present invention applies has a number average molecular mass ranging from 2000 to 800,000, preferably from 3000 to 500,000, more preferably from 4000 to 150,000, even more preferably from 4000 to 100,000, and even more preferably from 5700 to 99,000.

[0059] For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "crystallizable chain or block" refers to a chain or block which, if obtained alone, would reversibly transition from an amorphous to a crystalline state, depending on whether the temperature is above or below its melting point. For the purposes of the present invention, a "chain" in the term "crystallizable chain" is a group of atoms that are pendant or lateral to the polymer backbone. A "block" in the expression "crystallizable block" is a group of atoms belonging to the backbone. constituting one of the repeating motifs of the polymer. Advantageously, the "crystallizable chain" is a chain containing at least 6 carbon atoms.

[0060] Preferably, the crystallizable block(s) or chain(s) of the semi-crystalline polymers represent at least 30% of the total weight of each polymer and, preferably, at least 40%. The semi-crystalline polymers of the present invention containing crystallizable blocks are diblock, triblock, or multiblock polymers. They can be obtained by polymerization of a monomer containing reactive double bonds (or ethylenic bonds) or by polycondensation. When the semi-crystalline polymers of the present invention are polymers containing crystallizable chains, these crystallizable chains are advantageously in random or statistical form.

[0061] Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymers that can be used in thickeners are of synthetic origin. Furthermore, they do not comprise a polysaccharide backbone. In general, the crystallizable units (chains or blocks) of the semi-crystalline polymers according to the invention originate from monomer(s) containing one or more crystallizable block(s) or chain(s), used in the manufacture of the semi-crystalline polymers.

[0062] According to the invention, the semi-crystalline polymer can be chosen from block copolymers comprising at least one crystallizable block and at least one amorphous block, homopolymers and copolymers bearing at least one crystallizable chain by repeated motif, and mixtures thereof.

[0063] Semi-crystalline polymers that can be used in the invention include, but are not limited to:

[0064] - polyolefin block copolymers, preferably those whose monomers are described in EP-A-0 951 897,

[0065] - polycondensates, preferably of the aliphatic or aromatic homopolyester type or of the aliphatic or aromatic copolyester type,

[0066] - homopolymers or copolymers bearing at least one crystallizable chain and homopolymers or copolymers carrying at least one crystallizable block in the backbone, for example those described in US-A-5 156 911,

[0067] - homopolymers or copolymers bearing at least one crystallizable chain, preferably containing one or more fluoro group(s), as described in document WO-A-01 / 19333,

[0068] - and their mixtures.

[0069] Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymers used in the thickener contain crystallizable chains.

[0070] Examples include those defined in US-A-5,156,911 and WO-A-01 / 19333. These are homopolymers or copolymers comprising 50% to 100% by weight of patterns resulting from the polymerization of one or more monomers bearing a hydrophobic crystallizable chain.

[0071] They may result from:

[0072] - of polymerization, preferably free radical polymerization, of one or more monomers containing one or more reactive double bond(s) or ethylenic bond(s), namely a vinyl, (meth)acrylic or allylic group,

[0073] - of the polycondensation of one or more monomers bearing co groups reagents (carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid, alcohol, amine or isocyanate), such as polyesters, polyurethanes, polyethers, polyureas or polyamides.

[0074] In general, these polymers are preferably chosen from homopolymers and copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one monomer containing one or more crystallizable chain(s) which can be represented by formula (I): ......M...... ® S c

[0075] with M representing an atom of the polymer skeleton, S representing a spacer and C representing a crystallizable group.

[0076] The crystallizable "-SC" chains may be aliphatic or aromatic, and optionally fluorinated or perfluorinated. "S" preferably represents the (CH2)n or (CH2CH2O)n or (CH2O)n group, where n is an integer from 0 to 22. Preferably, "S" and "C" are different.

[0077] When the crystallizable “-SC” chains are aliphatic hydrocarbon chains, they comprise alkyl chains containing at least 8 carbon atoms and not more than 40 carbon atoms, and preferably not more than 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, these are alkyl chains containing at least 10 carbon atoms, and preferably are C10-C30 alkyl chains. When they are fluoroalkyl or perfluoroalkyl chains, they contain at least six fluorinated carbon atoms, and preferably at least 10 carbon atoms, of which at least six are fluorinated.

[0078] Examples of semi-crystalline homopolymers or copolymers containing one or more crystallizable chains include those resulting from the polymerization of one or more of the following monomers: saturated alkyl (meth)acrylates with the alkyl group at C8-C40, perfluoroalkyl (meth)acrylates with the alkyl group at C8-C40, N-alkyl(meth)acrylamides with the alkyl group at C8-C40 with or without a fluorine atom, vinyl esters containing alkyl or perfluoro(alkyl) chains with the alkyl group at C4-C24 (with at least 6 fluorine atoms per perfluoroalkyl chain), ethers vinyl containing alkyl or perfluoro(alkyl) chains with the alkyl group at C8-C4o and at least 6 fluorine atoms per perfluoroalkyl chain, C8-C40 alpha-olefins such as, for example, octadecene, para-alkylstyrenes with an alkyl group at C8-C4o, and mixtures thereof.

[0079] When semi-crystalline polymers result from polycondensation, the crystallizable hydrocarbon-based and / or fluorinated chains as defined above are carried by a monomer which can be a diacid, a diol, a diamine or a diisocyanate.

[0080] Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymers containing crystallizable chains are chosen from polymers resulting from the polymerization of monomer(s) comprising a C8-C40 alkyl (meth)acrylate, preferably a C10-C30 alkyl (meth)acrylate, preferably chosen from homopolymers of C8-C40 alkyl (meth)acrylate, preferably a C10-C30 or C8-C40 alkyl (meth)acrylate, preferably a C10-C30 alkyl (meth)acrylamide, copolymers of these monomers and a hydrophilic monomer which is preferably different from (meth)acrylic acid, preferably from N-vinylpyrrolidone or hydroxyethyl (meth)acrylate, and mixtures thereof.

[0081] Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymer containing crystallizable chains is a polymer that is derived from a monomer containing a crystallizable chain selected from C8-C40 saturated alkyl (meth)acrylates, preferably C10-C30 and preferably poly(stearyl acrylate) or poly(behenyl acrylate).

[0082] Preferred examples of the thickener having a melting point not less than 55 °C according to the present invention include polymers with the INCI name Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate sold under the trade name TEGO SP 13-6 by Evonik Materials Netherlands BV.

[0083] Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymers of the thickeners according to the present invention are non-crosslinked.

[0084] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises a thickener having a melting point from 58°C to 90°C, preferably from 60°C to 80°C, and more preferably from 60°C to 75°C.

[0085] More preferably, the thickeners according to the present invention are independently chosen from semi-crystalline polymers, preferably chosen from semi-crystalline polymers containing crystallizable chains, semi-crystalline polymers carrying in the skeleton at least one crystallizable block, and mixtures thereof.

[0086] More preferably, the thickeners according to the present invention are independently selected from polymers resulting from the polymerization of monomer(s) comprising a C8-C40 alkyl (meth)acrylate, preferably C10-C30, preferably selected from C8-C40 alkyl (meth)acrylate homopolymers, preferably a C10-C30 alkyl (meth)acrylate, and more preferably a C10-30 alkyl polyacrylate.

[0087] More preferably, the thickener having a melting point not less than 55°C according to the present invention is an alkyl polyacrylate of the form CiO₃⁻ having a melting point of 58°C to 90°C, preferably 60°C to 80°C, and more preferably 60°C to 75°C, for example, that sold under the trade name TEGO SP 13-6 by Evonik Materials Netherlands BV

[0088] Advantageously, the thickener having a melting point not less than 55°C is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.3% by weight to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% by weight to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 1.5% by weight to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Dyes

[0089] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one colorant.

[0090] Preferably, the colorant is chosen from natural dyes or dyes of natural origin, pigments, and mixtures thereof.

[0091] Natural dyes or dyes of natural origin

[0092] The term “natural dye” means a compound obtained directly from the earth or soil, or from plants or animals, by means, where appropriate, of one or more physical processes, for example grinding, refining, distillation, purification or filtration, or otherwise from a biotechnological process, for example, obtained from microbiological or cellular cultures, for example from fungi or bacteria.

[0093] The expression "dye of natural origin" means a natural compound that has undergone one or more chemical or industrial treatments, resulting in modifications that do not affect the essential qualities of that compound and / or a compound comprising mainly natural constituents that may or may not have undergone modifications as indicated above. Non-limiting examples of additional chemical or industrial treatments resulting in modifications that do not affect the essential qualities of a natural compound include those authorized by regulatory bodies such as COSMOS (Cosmetic, Organic and Ecological Products Standard, version 3.1 of June 1, 2020), or possibly defined by AFNOR standard 16-128.

[0094] According to the invention, a compound is preferably considered natural or of natural origin when it is composed mainly of natural constituents, that is, when the weight ratio between natural and non-natural constituents that make up the compound is greater than 1.

[0095] Preferably, the natural dye or dye of natural origin is chosen from anthocyanins, anthocyanidins, proanthocyanidins, and mixtures thereof, and preferably chosen from anthocyanins, anthocyanidins, and mixtures thereof.

[0096] With regard to proanthocyanidins, proanthocyanidins Al, A2, Bl, B2, B3 and Cl may be suitable for the realization of the present invention.

[0097] As regards anthocyanins, these are substituted glycoside salts and acyl glycosides of 2-phenylbenzopyrylium.

[0098] Anthocyanidins are anthocyanin aglycone compounds.

[0099] The basic structure of anthocyanidins consists of a chromane nucleus (ring A at C6 and ring C at C3) bearing a second aromatic ring (ring B at C6) at position 2, as represented in the following formula (II) 1. Pelargonidin (Pg) R 3 =OH; R s =OH; R 6 =H; R 7 =OH; R 3. =H; R 4* = OH ; R s. = H 2. Cyanidin (Cy) R 3=OH; RS=OH; R 6=H; R 7=OH; R 3.=OH; R 4=OH; R5=H 3. Delphinidin (Dp) R 3 =OH; R s =OH; R 6 =H; R 7 =OH; R 3. =OH; R 4- =OH ; R s. =OH 4. Peonidin (Pn) R 3=OH; RS=OH; R 6=H; R 7=OH; R 3 =0Me; R 4 =OH; R5=H 5. Petunidin (Pt) R 3=OH; RS=OH; R 6=H; R 7=OH; R 3 =0Me; R 4=OH; R 5 =OH 6. Malvidin (Mv) R 3 =OH; R s =OH; R 6 =H; R 7 =OH; R 3. =0Me; R 4* =OH ; R s. =0Me.

[0100] The different anthocyanidins differ in the number and position of the hydroxyl and / or methyl ether groups, which may be attached to their 3, 5, 7, 3', 4' and / or 5' positions.

[0101] More than 31 monomeric anthocyanidins have been identified. However, 90% of naturally occurring anthocyanidins are represented by six structures (30% of cyanidins (2), 22% of delphinidins (3), 18% of pelargonidins (1) and the remaining 20% ​​composed of pieonidins (4), malvidins (6) and petunidins (5)).

[0102] These six anthocyanidins are the best known anthocyanidins.

[0103] The colour of anthocyanidins differs with the number of hydroxyl groups attached to the molecules and preferably those present in ring B.

[0104] The color of the molecule changes from orange to violet with the number of hydroxyl motifs present in its structure.

[0105] Glycosylation of anthocyanidins has the effect of stimulating their red color, while the presence of blue aromatic or aliphatic acyl motifs has an essential effect on their stability and solubility.

[0106] These dyes can be characterized by the following CAS numbers: 134-01-1, 134-04-3, 528-53-0, 528-28-5, 643-84-5, 1429-30-7, 11029-12-2, etc., and defined by the "CTFA - International Color Handbook", third edition, CTFA, pages 856-857.

[0107] These dyes can be found in many plants, for example the Virginia cherry, the blueberry, the cranberry, the purple or black carrot, the blackcurrant, the cherry, the red cabbage, the poppy, the strawberry, the geranium, the pomegranate, the hibiscus, the purple corn, the lingonberry, the purple sweet potato, the red radish, the black grape, the sorghum and the elderberry.

[0108] Preferably, the dyes are chosen from those derived from radish (INCI name: Raphanus sativus root extract), purple sweet potato (INCI name: Ipomoea batatas root extract).

[0109] The dyes used in the context of the present invention may be in powder form, in extract form, in solution form, in emulsion form or in dispersion form.

[0110] Among the commercial products suitable for the realization of the present invention, the following may be mentioned: CD Radish Red Powder C (Omya), Natpure Xfine Red Radish or Natpure Xfine Purple Sweet Potato (Sensient Cosmetic Technologies), Microzest 25 Carrot Pink (Les sonia), New Red 1805 (Naturex).

[0111] The dyes described in patent application WO 2017 / 162599 may also be suitable for use. Pigments

[0112] The term “pigments” refers to white or colored particles, mineral or organic, which are insoluble in an aqueous or oily medium, and which are intended to color and / or opacify the composition and / or the resulting deposit(s).

[0113] These pigments can be coated or uncoated mineral pigments.

[0114] Among the mineral pigments that are useful in the present invention, mention may be made of zirconium oxide, cerium oxide, zinc oxide, titanium oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow or red), chromium oxide, manganese violet, the ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, and metallic powders, for example aluminum powder and copper powder.

[0115] These pigments can also be organic pigments.

[0116] The organic pigment may be selected from nitroso, nitro, azo compounds (e.g., azo yellow), xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine (e.g., phthalocyanine blue), metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane and quinophthalone.

[0117] The organic pigment may be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, sorghum red, the blue pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100 and 74160, the yellow pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000 and 47005, the green pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 61565, 61570 and 74260, the orange pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 11725, 15510, 45370, and 71105, the red pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, CI 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, and 75470 and the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole or phenolic derivatives as described in patent FR 2 679 771.

[0118] These pigments can also take the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments can be composed of particles including a mineral core at least partially covered by an organic pigment and at least one binder for fixing the organic pigments to the core.

[0119] The pigment can also be a lake. The term "lake" refers to insolubilized dyes adsorbed or precipitated onto insoluble particles, the resulting whole remaining insoluble during use.

[0120] The insoluble particles on which the insolubilized dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminium borosilicate and aluminium.

[0121] The pigments may or may not have been subjected to a hydrophobic surface treatment.

[0122] The hydrophobic treatment agent can be chosen, for example, from silicones such as methicones, dimethicones and perfluoroalkylsilanes; fatty acids such as stearic acid; metallic soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate, perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoroalkylsilazanes, polyhexafluoropropylene oxides, amino acids; N-acylaminated acids or their salts; lecithin, triisostearyl isopropyl titanate, and mixtures thereof.

[0123] N-acylaminated acids may comprise an acyl group containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for example, a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, phanitoyl, stearoyl, or cocoyl group. The salts of these compounds may be aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium, or potassium salts. The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid, or alanine.

[0124] The term "alkyl" cited in said hydrophobic treatment agent refers to an alkyl group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably containing from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.

[0125] Hydrophobically treated pigments are described for example in patent application EP 1 086 683.

[0126] Among the organic pigments, we can mention cochineal carmine.

[0127] Other products, and their lacquers, known under the following names may also be mentioned: D&C Red 7 (CI 15 850), D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green 5 (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 10 (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42,090).

[0128] Preferably, the colorant according to the present invention is selected from anthocyanins, anthocyanidins, proanthocyanidins, zirconium oxide, cerium oxide, zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, iron oxide (black, yellow or red), chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue, aluminum powder, copper powder, blue organic pigments, yellow organic pigments, green organic pigments, orange organic pigments, red organic pigments, and mixtures thereof.

[0129] More preferably, the colorant according to the present invention is chosen from among the Anthocyanins; Red 7 (CI 15850), for example, that sold under the trade name Unipure Red LC 3079 OU by Sensient; Yellow 6 Lake (CI 15985), for example, that sold under the trade name SunCROMA FD&C Yellow 6 Al Lake C70-5270 by Sun Chemical; iron oxides (CI 77499), for example, that sold under the trade name Unipure Triple Black LC 990 by Sensient; titanium dioxide (CI 77891), for example, that sold under the trade name Tipaque PF-671 by Ishihara Sangyo, and mixtures thereof.

[0130] Advantageously, the colorant is present in an amount ranging from 0.001% by weight to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.005% by weight to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.008% by weight to 1% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.01% by weight to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Oils

[0131] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one oil.

[0132] The term "oil" refers to liquid compounds that are immiscible in water, at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

[0133] According to the present invention, the oil can be chosen from nonpolar hydrocarbon-based oils, which can be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and preferably saturated.

[0134] Oil or oils based on nonpolar hydrocarbons are, for example, compounds comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms (in other words, hydrocarbon-type oils).

[0135] Said non-polar hydrocarbon-based oils may be of mineral origin, plant-based or synthetic, for example:

[0136] - liquid paraffin,

[0137] - squalane,

[0138] - isoeicosane,

[0139] - mixtures of saturated linear hydrocarbons, for example of Ci5-C28, such as the mixtures whose INCI names are, for example, the following: Ci5_i9 Alkane (INCI name), C18-21 Alkane (INCI name), C2i_28 Alkane (INCI name), for example the products Gemseal 40, Gemseal 60 and Gemseal 120 sold by Total, and Emogreen L19 sold by SEPPIC,

[0140] - hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polybutenes, for example products in the range Indopol sold by the company Ineos Oligomers,

[0141] - hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyisobutenes, for example the Parleam® range sold by the company Nippon Oil Fats,

[0142] - hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polydecenes, for example the Puresyn® range sold by ExxonMobil,

[0143] - and their mixtures.

[0144] According to the present invention, the oil can be chosen from silicone oils.

[0145] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, for example, at least one Si-O group.

[0146] Among silicone oils, we can mention dimethicones, diphenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethicones, and also their mixtures.

[0147] According to the present invention, the oil can be chosen from vegetable oils.

[0148] Examples of vegetable oils that may be cited include those selected from jojoba oil, olive oil, coconut oil, seed oil coriander, macadamia oil, passionflower oil, argan oil, sesame seed oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, avocado oil, rosehip oil, apricot kernel oil, flaxseed oil, sweet almond oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, peanut oil, kaya oil, wheat germ oil, corn oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, squash oil, cucurbit seed oil, hazelnut oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, oil of safflower, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0149] Preferably, the vegetable oil is chosen from sunflower oil, olive oil, apricot kernel oil, sweet almond oil, argan oil, rapeseed oil, jojoba oil and sesame seed oil, alone or in mixtures.

[0150] According to the present invention, the oil can be selected from ester oils, comprising 1 to 4 ester functions, comprising in total between 17 and 100 linear or branched carbon atoms, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic.

[0151] Preferably, said ester oils are selected from monoesters and polyesters, for example:

[0152] - the monoesters of a monocarboxylic acid and a monoalcohol, for example purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, oleyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, mono-alcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate and 2-octyldodecyl myristate;

[0153] - Dicarboxylic acid and monoalcohol diesters, preferably such as diisostearyl malate, or glycol and monocarboxylic acid diesters, such as neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol dioctanoate or diethylene glycol diisononanoate;

[0154] - triesters of a tricarboxylic acid and a monoalcohol, such as citrate of triisostearyl or tridecyl trimellitate;

[0155] - total esters of glycerol, diglycerol or pentaerythritol and acids monocarboxylic acids, for example heptanoic acid triglycerides, octanoic acid triglycerides, capric acid triglycerides alone or in mixtures, for example capric / caprylic acid triglycerides, Ci8 36 acid triglycerides; 2-decyl tetradecanoate triglyceride, pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostetrastearate; or pentaerythrityl isostearate / caprate / caprylate / adipate (INCI name, for example Supermol L products from the company Croda);

[0156] - and also their mixtures.

[0157] For the purposes of the invention, the expression "total esters of glycerol, diglycerol or pentaerythritol and monocarboxylic acids" means that each hydroxyl group of glycerol, diglycerol or pentaerythritol forms an ester with the monocarboxylic acid.

[0158] According to the present invention, the oil can be selected from ether oils of formula ROR', carbonate oils of formula RO(CO)OR', formulas in which the R and R' groups, which may be identical or different, represent a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl group comprising fewer than 16 carbon atoms, preferably a C3-C16 group. For example, dicaprylyl ether, dipropyl carbonate, diethylhexyl carbonate, dicaprylyl carbonate, a C14-C15 dialkyl carbonate, and mixtures thereof may be mentioned.

[0159] Preferably, the oil according to the present invention is chosen from non-polar hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils, vegetable oils, ester oils, ether oils, carbonate oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0160] More preferably, the oil according to the present invention is chosen from ester oils, preferably monoesters of a monocarboxylic acid and a monoalcohol, diesters of dicarboxylic acids and monoalcohols or diesters of glycol and monocarboxylic acids, triesters of a tricarboxylic acid and a monoalcohol, total esters of glycerol, diglycerol or pentaerythritol and monocarboxylic acids, and mixtures thereof, more preferably chosen from total esters of glycerol, diglycerol, or pentaerythritol and monocarboxylic acids, and even more preferably pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, for example that sold under the name JOLEE® 7181 by the company OLEON.

[0161] Advantageously, the oil is present in an amount of not less than 20% by weight, preferably not less than 30% by weight, more preferably not less than 40%, and even more preferably from 50% by weight to 98% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional ingredients

[0162] The composition according to the present invention may include one or more additional ingredients, chosen from those classically used in cosmetic products, and preferably lip products.

[0163] The composition according to the present invention may include any of the following additives: biological extracts; perfumes; active ingredients and preservatives.

[0164] A person skilled in the art can adjust the type and quantity of additional ingredients present in the compositions according to the present invention by means of routine operations, so that the desired properties of these compositions are not negatively affected by the additional ingredients. Composition

[0165] The composition according to the present invention is applicable to all common cosmetic products, preferably lip products, for example a lip oil.

[0166] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention is anhydrous.

[0167] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "anhydrous" refers to a composition containing water in a content of 1% or less by weight, preferably 0.5% or less by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, or even a composition free of water. Such small amounts of water may, where appropriate, be introduced, in particular, by the composition ingredients, which may contain residual amounts. By combining a fatty compound having a melting point not less than 35°C and a thickener having a melting point not less than 55°C, various colorants, including dyes and pigments, can be stably suspended in the oil base of the composition comprising them. In other words, the composition according to the present invention is stable when stored for a long period, for example, 15 days or more, even at a high temperature, for example, 45°C.

[0168] Preferably, the weight ratio between the fatty compound having a melting point not less than 35°C and the thickener having a melting point not less than 55°C ranges from 0.01 to 20, preferably from 0.05 to 15, and more preferably from 0.1 to 10.

[0169] In a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a skincare and / or makeup composition of keratinous materials, preferably of the lips, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: a. an amount of 0.05% by weight to 15% by weight of at least one fatty compound having a melting point not less than 35°C; b. an amount of 0.3% by weight to 10% by weight of at least one thickener having a melting point not lower than 55°C; and c. an amount of 0.008% by weight to 1% by weight of at least one colorant.

[0170] In a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a skincare and / or makeup composition of keratinous materials, preferably of the lips, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: a. an amount of 0.05% by weight to 15% by weight of at least one fatty compound having a melting point not less than 35°C, chosen from waxes, pasty fatty compounds, and mixtures thereof; b. an amount of 0.3% by weight to 10% by weight of at least one thickener having a melting point not less than 55°C, selected from polymers resulting from the polymerization of monomer(s) comprising a C8-C40 alkyl (meth)acrylate, preferably a C10-C30 alkyl (meth)acrylate, and preferably homopolymers of C8-C40 alkyl (meth)acrylate, preferably a C10-C30 alkyl (meth)acrylate; and c. an amount of 0.008% by weight to 1% by weight of at least one colorant, chosen from natural dyes or dyes of natural origin, pigments, and mixtures thereof,

[0171] wherein, if present, the wax has a melting point between 35 °C and 120 °C, preferably between 40 °C and 100 °C, and more preferably between 40 °C and 90 °C, and / or if present, the pasty fatty compound has a melting point between 35 °C and 60 °C, preferably between 35 °C and 50 °C, and more preferably between 35 °C and 45 °C.

[0172] In a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a skincare and / or makeup composition of keratinous materials, preferably of the lips, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: a. 0.1% by weight to 3% by weight of a pasty fatty compound which is irvingia gabonensis kernel butter, and / or 0.1% by weight to 8% by weight of a wax selected from sunflower wax, waxes obtained by hydrogenation of palm oil and rapeseed oil, and mixtures thereof; b. 0.5% to 5% by weight, preferably 1.5% to 3% by weight, of alkyl polyacrylate in CiO₃O₄, preferably having a melting point of 60°C to 75°C; and c. 0.01% by weight to 0.5% by weight of a colorant selected from anthocyanins, red organic pigments, yellow organic pigments, titanium dioxide, iron oxide (black, yellow or red), and mixtures thereof. Method and use

[0173] The composition according to the present invention is used in a process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, preferably of the lips, by being applied to the keratinous materials.

[0174] The composition according to the invention can be applied by any means allowing uniform distribution, for example using a finger, a brush or a cotton ball.

[0175] According to the second aspect, the present invention relates to a method for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, preferably of the lips, comprising the application of the above composition to the keratinous materials.

[0176] According to the third aspect, the present invention relates to the use of a combination of at least one fatty compound having a melting point not less than 35°C and at least one thickener having a melting point not less than 55°C to improve the stability of a composition comprising at least one colorant.

[0177] Preferably, the fatty compound, the thickener and the colorant are defined above.

[0178] Preferably, the weight ratio between the fatty compound having a melting point not less than 35°C and the thickener having a melting point not less than 55°C ranges from 0.01 to 20, preferably from 0.05 to 15, and more preferably from 0.1 to 10.

[0179] The present invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples described below, which are given by way of non-limiting illustration. EXAMPLES

[0180] The main raw materials used, their trade names and their suppliers are listed in Table 1.

[0181] [Tables 1] INCI Name Trade Name Supplier Melting Point C10-30 ALKYL POLYACRYLATE (POLY C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE) TEGO SP13-6 EVONIK MATERIALS NETHERLANDS BV 61-71°C C10-30 ALKYL POLYACRYLATE (POLY C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE) TEGO SP13-1 MB EVONIK (AIR PRODUC TS) 44-54°C OCTYLDODECANOL (and) IRVINGIA GABONENSIS KERNEL BUTTER (and) HYDROGENED COCO-GLYCERIDES (OCTYLDODECANOL (and) IRVINGIA GABONENSIS KERNEL BUTTER (and) HYDROGENED COCO-GLYCERIDES) LS 9890 BASF BEAUT Y CARE SOLU TION Melting point of WALNUT BUTTER DTRVING IA GABONE NSIS: 40°C SUNFLOWER SEED WAX L E00167 SUNFL OWER WAX KOSTER KEU NEN 74-77°C (HELIANTHUS ANNUUS) (HELIA NTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) S EED WAX) HYDROGENATED VEGETABLE OIL (HYDROGENATED VEGETABLE OIL) CEGES OFT HF 52 BASF 50-57°C BUTYROSPERM UM PARKII (SHEA) BUTTER) LIPEX 2 04 FFL AARHUS-KAR LSHAMN 15°C

[0182] Comparative Examples 1-6 and Inventive Examples 1-6

[0183] Compositions according to comparative examples (EC.) 1-6 and inventive examples (Ex.) 1-6 comprising the ingredients listed in Table 2 were prepared, all quantities being expressed as percentages by weight of active material relative to the total weight of each composition.

[0184] [Tables2] Components Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Ex. 4 Ex. 5 Ex. 6 EC .1 EC .2 EC .3 EC .4 EC .5 EC .6 C10-30 ALKYL POLYACRYLATE (TEGO SP 13-6) 3 1 1 3 1.5 1.5 / / 1 1 / / ALKYL POLYACRYLATE EN C10-30 (TEGO SP 13-1) / / / / / / 3 1 / / 3 1 IRVING KERNAL BUTTER IA GABONENSIS 0.75 0.75 / 0.75 / / / 0.75 / / 0.75 / HELIANTHU S ANNUUS SEED WAX (TOU RNESOL) / / 5 / 0.25 / / / / / / 5 OIL HYDROGENATED VEGETABLE E / / / / / 0.25 / / / / / / YROSPERMUM P ARKII BUT BUTTER (SHEA) / / / / / / / / / 0.75 / / ANTHOCYANIN ES 0.25 0.25 0.25 / / / 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 RED 7 / CI 15850 / / / 0.02 0.02 0.02 / / / / / / YELLOW 6 LAK E / CI 15985 / / / 0.02 0.02 0.02 / / / / / / TI T ANE DIOXIDE / CI 77891 / / / 0.01 0.03 / / / / / / / IRON OXIDES / CI 77499 / / / / 0.0 05 / / / / / / / TETRAISOSTEA SPLEEN PENTA ERYTHRITYL QS QS QS QS QS QS QS QS QS QS QS QS Preparation process

[0185] The compositions were prepared using a process comprising the following steps: 1. Adding pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate to an autoclave and raising the temperature to 80 °C; 2. the addition of the alkyl acrylates in CiO_3o (if present) and of the kernel butter of Irvingia Gabonensis or of the seed wax of Helianthus Annuus (sunflower) or of hydrogenated vegetable oil or of Butyrospermum Parkii (shea) butter (if present) in the autoclave at a temperature of 80 °C, and their mixing until homogeneous; 3. Reducing the temperature of the components in the autoclave to 75 °C and adding anthocyanins and / or Red 7 and / or Yellow 6 lake and / or titanium dioxide and / or iron oxides, and mixing them until homogeneous; and 4. Cooling the components in the autoclave at room temperature to obtain the final compositions. Stability test

[0186] Each of the compositions of Inventive Examples 1 to 6 and Comparative Examples 1 to 6 was left to stand for 15 days or more and observed as to stability at a temperature of 45 °C, and the results of the stability test were presented in Table 3.

[0187] [Tables3] No. Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Ex. 4 Ex. 5 Ex. 6 Thermal stability at 45°C Stable at 2 months Stable at 15 days Stable at 15 days Stable at 2 months Stable at 1 month Stable at 1 month No. EC. EC.1 EC.2 EC.3 EC.4 EC.5 EC.6 Thermal stability at 45°C Unstable at 3 days Unstable at 15 days Unstable at 15 days Unstable at 15 days Unstable at 15 days

[0188] “Stable” means that there has been no sedimentation of dye in the composition, and that the dye was suspended uniformly, while "Unstable" means that there has been sedimentation of dye in the composition.

[0189] It can be seen from Table 3 that the compositions of Examples 1-6, comprising at least one fatty compound having a melting point not less than 35°C, at least one thickener having a melting point not less than 55°C, and at least one colorant, are stable when stored for a long period, for example, 15 days or 1 month or even 2 months, at a high temperature, for example, 45°C.

[0190] On the other hand, the compositions of Comparative Examples 1 to 6, which do not include at least one of the fatty compounds having a melting point not less than 35 °C and the thickener having a melting point not less than 55 °C, are not stable when stored for 15 days or even 3 days at a temperature of 45 °C.

Claims

Demands

1. Composition, preferably for skincare and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising: (a) at least one fatty compound having a melting point not less than 35 °C; (b) at least one thickener having a melting point not less than 55 °C; and (c) at least one colorant.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the fatty compound is selected from waxes, pasty fatty compounds, and mixtures thereof, and if present, the wax has a melting point between 35°C and 120°C, preferably between 40°C and 100°C and more preferably between 40°C and 90°C, and / or if present, the pasty fatty compound has a melting point between 35°C and 60°C, preferably between 35°C and 50°C and more preferably between 35°C and 45°C.

3. Composition according to claim 2, wherein the wax is selected from nonpolar hydrocarbon-based waxes, ester hydrocarbon-based waxes, and mixtures thereof, preferably the wax is selected from waxes of animal or vegetable origin, waxes obtained by hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably the wax is selected from waxes of vegetable origin, waxes obtained by hydrogenation of vegetable oil(s), and mixtures thereof, and even more preferably the wax is selected from sunflower wax, waxes obtained by hydrogenation of more than one vegetable oil, preferably by hydrogenation of palm oil and rapeseed oil, and mixtures thereof.

4. Composition according to claim 2, wherein the pasty fat compound is selected from nonpolar hydrocarbon-based pasty compounds, ester hydrocarbon-based pasty compounds, and mixtures thereof, preferably the pasty fat compound is selected from vegetable butters, and more preferably the pasty fat compound is Irvingia gabonensis kernel butter.

5. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the thickener has a melting point from 58°C to 90°C, preferably from 60°C to 80°C, and more preferably from 60°C to 75°C, preferably the thickener is selected from semi-crystalline polymers, more preferably the thickener is selected from semi-crystalline polymers containing crystallizable chains, semi-crystalline polymers bearing at least one crystallizable block in their backbone, and mixtures thereof, even more preferably the thickener is selected from polymers resulting from the polymerization of monomer(s) comprising a C8-C40 alkyl (meth)acrylate, preferably a C10-C30 alkyl (meth)acrylate, and preferably a homopolymer of C8-C40 alkyl (meth)acrylate, preferably a C10-C30 alkyl (meth)acrylate, and most preferably, the thickener is a C10-30 alkyl polyacrylate.

6. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the colorant is selected from natural dyes or dyes of natural origin, pigments, and mixtures thereof; preferably, the colorant is selected from anthocyanins, anthocyanidins, proanthocyanidins, zirconium oxide, cerium oxide, zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, iron oxide (black, yellow or red), chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue, aluminum powder, copper powder, blue organic pigments, yellow organic pigments, green organic pigments, orange organic pigments, red organic pigments, and mixtures thereof; and more preferably, the colorant is selected from anthocyanins, red organic pigments, yellow organic pigments, titanium dioxide, iron oxide (black, yellow or red), and mixtures thereof.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the weight ratio between the fatty compound having a melting point not less than 35°C and the thickener having a melting point

8.

9.

10. melting point not less than 55°C ranges from 0.01 to 20, preferably from 0.05 to 15, and more preferably from 0.1 to 10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition is anhydrous. Skincare and / or makeup composition of keratinous materials, preferably for the lips, comprising, in relation to the total weight of the composition: a) 0.1% by weight to 3% by weight of a pasty fatty compound which is irvingia gabonensis kernel butter, and / or 0.1% by weight to 8% by weight of a wax selected from sunflower wax, waxes obtained by hydrogenation of palm oil and rapeseed oil, and mixtures thereof; b) 0.5% to 5% by weight, preferably 1.5% to 3% by weight, of C10-30C alkyl polyacrylate, preferably having a melting point of 60°C to 75°C; and (c) 0.01% by weight to 0.5% by weight of a colorant selected from anthocyanins, red organic pigments, yellow organic pigments, titanium dioxide, iron oxide (black, yellow or red), and mixtures thereof. A process for the treatment and / or makeup of keratinous materials, preferably of the lips, comprising: the application of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 on keratinous materials.