Fast-drying cosmetic composition for localized skin treatment

Abstract

TITLE: Fast-drying cosmetic composition for localized skin treatment. The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium, at least one clay, at least one starch, at least one gum of vegetable or microbial origin, at least one isethionate anionic surfactant, at least one cationic polymer, and at least one alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) and / or beta-hydroxy acid (BHA). The invention also relates to a method for treating, moisturizing, and / or cleansing skin, particularly acne-prone skin, comprising applying a composition according to the invention to the skin to be treated. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: Fast-drying cosmetic composition for localized skin treatment

[0001] The present invention relates to a topical cosmetic composition designed for the localized treatment of the skin, and in particular for the localized treatment of acne. Based on clay, gum, starch, and specific active ingredients, the composition is presented in the form of a paste that dries rapidly upon contact with the skin, thus providing a non-sticky finish. This rapid drying time allows for convenient application throughout the day, even under makeup, as well as for use as a nighttime cosmetic treatment.

[0002] Anti-acne cosmetic compositions often have the undesirable effect of drying out the skin. Therefore, it is necessary to develop an effective anti-acne cosmetic composition that can provide sensory and aesthetic benefits to acne-prone skin and also provide adequate hydration to the skin.

[0003] The present invention also aims to provide a gentle, non-sticky, non-irritating cosmetic composition capable of delivering an anti-acne complex that deposits active ingredients with keratolytic and antimicrobial properties on the skin, particularly in a localized manner, with sufficient retention and hold on the application area, to allow optimal effectiveness of the active ingredients over a prolonged period, for example overnight or during the day under makeup in the area.

[0004] The present invention has in particular the aim of providing a composition which offers both improved hydration and sebum control.

[0005] Furthermore, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, that is, products whose design and development take environmental issues into account, is becoming a major concern in order to help address global challenges. It is therefore essential to offer more sustainable compositions and / or preparation processes and / or ingredients that can thus meet these environmental challenges.

[0006] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or with a good naturalness index and / or of natural origin and more particularly of plant origin, while reducing the use of petrochemical compounds.

[0007] The inventors have now found compositions comprising the combination of starch, clay, gum, cationic polymer, surfactant and specific active ingredients enabling the achievement of all the particular properties sought above. above. These compositions also include sustainable ingredients, thus helping to address environmental challenges.

[0008] The present invention therefore relates to an aqueous cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least the following ingredients:

[0009] a) clay,

[0010] b) starch,

[0011] c) gum of vegetable or microbial origin,

[0012] d) anionic surfactant isethionate,

[0013] e) cationic polymer, and

[0014] f) alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) and / or beta-hydroxy acid (BHA).

[0015] The present invention relates in particular to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least the following ingredients:

[0016] a) clay,

[0017] b) starch,

[0018] c) gum of vegetable or microbial origin,

[0019] d) anionic surfactant isethionate,

[0020] e) cationic polymer,

[0021] f) alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) and / or beta-hydroxy acid (BHA),

[0022] g) water, and

[0023] h) glycerin.

[0024] It also relates to a method for caring for keratinous materials, in which the composition according to the invention is applied to the keratinous materials, preferably to the skin. It preferably relates to a method for treating, moisturizing, and / or cleansing acne-prone skin, comprising applying a composition according to the invention to the skin to be treated.

[0025] By "physiologically acceptable" is meant a medium compatible with keratinous materials, that is to say materials containing keratin as a main constituent element, for example the skin of the face or body, the scalp, the lips, etc.

[0026] The composition according to the present invention is a cosmetic composition, preferably a cosmetic composition for the care of keratinous materials, and more preferably a cosmetic composition for treating, moisturizing and / or cleansing human skin, and in particular acne-prone skin.

[0027] The ingredients of the composition are described in detail below. Clay

[0028] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one clay.

[0029] Clays are products already well known and described, for example, in the work Minéralogie des argiles, S. Caillère, S. Hénin and M. Rautureau, 2nd edition 1982, Masson.

[0030] Among clays, we can cite clays of the smectite family, such as laponite and montmorillonite; of the kaolinite family, such as kaolinite, kaolin, dickite or nacrite, clays, possibly modified, of the halloysite, donbassite, antigorite, benthierine or pyrophyllite family, montmorillonite, beidellite, vermiculite, talc, stevensite, hectorite, bentonite, saponite, chlorite, sepiolite and illite.

[0031] The clay(s) present in the composition of the invention may be natural or synthetic (derived from synthesis). Natural clay is a sedimentary rock composed largely of specific minerals, silicates, generally aluminum. Kaolin is thus a natural clay.

[0032] Clays can also be chemically modified by various compounds, such as acrylic acids, polysaccharides (e.g. carboxymethylcellulose) or organic cations.

[0033] Within the framework of the present invention, clays are cosmetically compatible and acceptable for keratinous materials, in particular the skin.

[0034] The clay used is preferably chosen from kaolinite, kaolin, montmorillonite, saponite, laponite, bentonite, hectorite, stevensite, and illite. Clay mixtures are advantageously used. Preferably, the clays used in the composition of the invention are natural clays.

[0035] Preferably, the clay of the composition according to the invention is different from talc.

[0036] Preferably, the clay according to the invention is an unmodified clay. By clay Unmodified clay refers to a natural or synthetic clay that has not undergone any modification whatsoever. For example, when an unmodified clay suitable for the invention is an unmodified hectorite, this is distinct from hectorites modified with a C22 fatty acid ammonium chloride, such as hectorite modified with distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride. In one embodiment, an unmodified clay suitable for the invention is synthetic. In a preferred embodiment, an unmodified clay suitable for the invention is natural, preferably kaolinite or natural hectorite. Modified clay refers to sheet silicates whose lipophilicity has been increased, for example, by ion-exchange reactions with quaternary ammonium salts, preferably quaternary ammonium chlorides.

[0037] Examples of natural clays include green clays, particularly those rich in illite; clays rich in montmorillonite, known as fuller's earth, or such as bentonites, or white clays rich in kaolinite. Examples of bentonites include those sold under the names "Bentone 38 VCG", "Bentone Gel CAO V", "Bentone 27 V" and "Bentone Gel MIO V" by Elementis.

[0038] Montmorillonites and smectites are hydrated aluminum and / or magnesium silicates. Examples include montmorillonite sold under the name "Gel White H" by Rockwood Additives and purified smectite sold under the name "Veegum Granules" by Vanderbilt. Other examples include montmorillonite sold under the name Kunipia G4 by Kunimine and sepiolite Pangel S9 sold by Toisa.

[0039] Examples of kaolinites include kaolins sold under the names Coslin C 100 by BASF Personal Care Ingredients or Kaolin Supreme by Imerys.

[0040] Talcs are hydrated magnesium silicates generally comprising aluminum silicate. The crystalline structure of talc consists of repeated layers of a brucite sandwich between layers of silica. Examples include micronized magnesium silicate with a particle size of 5 microns, sold under the name Micro Ace P3 by Nippon Talc, or talcs sold under the names Rose Talc and Talc SG-2000 by Nippon Talc, J 68 BC by US Cosmetics (Miyoshi), Luzenac 00 and Luzenac Pharma M by Luzenac, and Talc JA-46R by Asada Milling.

[0041] One can cite, as an example of saponite, which belongs to the montmorillonite family, synthetic saponite, in particular that sold by Kunimine under the name Sumecton

[0042] One can cite, as an example of synthetic laponite, LAPONITE0 XLG, sold by Rockwood.

[0043] The clay(s) are advantageously present in a weight content in the range of 5 to 25%, preferably 10 to 20%, preferably 12 to 18%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0044] More preferably, the clay used is different from magnesium and aluminum silicate, and preferably is kaolinite, in particular kaolin.

[0045] Advantageously, the clay according to the invention comprises at least kaolin, preferably the clay in the composition of the invention is kaolin. Kaolin

[0046] Kaolin is a natural clay composed mainly of kaolinite, a hydrated aluminum silicate belonging to the phyllosilicate family.

[0047] As examples of kaolin suitable for the present invention, one can mention in particular the supreme Kaolin marketed by IMERYS or the Coslin C 100 marketed by BASF, preferably the supreme Kaolin marketed by IMERYS.

[0048] A composition according to the invention may comprise a kaolin content of 5 to 25%, preferably 10 to 20%, preferably 12 to 18%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Starch

[0049] The cosmetic composition according to the invention further comprises starch, simple starch, that is to say, ungrafted starch, in particular ungrafted starch, for example, starch not grafted with an acrylic polymer. Indeed, in the sense of the invention, the starch is not grafted with an acrylic polymer; in particular, the starch according to the invention is not a superabsorbent polymer.

[0050] The starches usable in the present invention are more particularly macromolecules in the form of polymers composed of elementary units which are anhydroglucose (dextrose) units, linked by α(1,4) bonds, with the chemical formula (C6H10O5)n. The number of these units and their arrangement allow us to distinguish between amylose, a molecule formed of approximately 600 to 1000 linearly linked glucose molecules, and amylopectin, a polymer branched approximately every 25 glucose residues (α(1,6) bond). The total chain can consist of between 10,000 and 100,000 glucose residues.

[0051] Starch is described in particular in "KIRK-OTHMER ENCYCLOPEDIA OF CHEMICAL TECHNOLOGY, 3rd edition, volume 21, p.492-507, Wiley Interscience, 1983".

[0052] The relative proportions of amylose and amylopectin, as well as their degree of polymerization, vary depending on the botanical origin of the starches. On average, a sample of native starch consists of approximately 25% amylose and 75% amylopectin.

[0053] Sometimes, there is a presence of phytoglycogen (between 0 and 20% of the starch), an analogue of amylopectin but branched every 10 to 15 glucose residues.

[0054] Starch can be in the form of semi-crystalline granules: amylopectin is organized into sheets, amylose forms a less well-organized amorphous zone between the different sheets.

[0055] Amylose is organized into a right-handed helix with six glucose molecules per turn. It dissociates into assimilable glucose under the action of enzymes, the amylases, all the more easily if it is in the form of amylopectin. Indeed, the helical formation does not promote the accessibility of starch to the enzymes.

[0056] Starches are generally in the form of a white powder insoluble in cold water, with elementary particle sizes ranging from 3 to 100 pm.

[0057] By treating it with hot water, a paste is obtained. It is used in industry for its thickening and gelling properties.

[0058] In the case of the present invention, starch is used as a sensory filler to accelerate the drying of the composition after spreading on the skin.

[0059] The starch molecules used in the present invention may have cereals or tubers as their botanical origin. Thus, the starches are, for example, chosen from corn, rice, cassava, tapioca, barley, potato, wheat, sorghum, and pea starches.

[0060] Native starches are represented for example by the products sold under the trade names C*Amilogel®, Cargill Gel®, C*Gel®, Cargill Gum®, DryGel®, C*Pharm Gel® by the company Cargill, under the name Corn Starch by the company Roquette, and under the name Tapioca Pure by the company National Starch.

[0061] Advantageously, said at least one starch is chosen from: corn starch, tapioca starch, rice starch, wheat starch, cassava starch, barley starch, potato starch, sorghum starch, pea starch, and mixtures thereof.

[0062] Preferably, the starch according to the invention is selected from corn, tapioca, rice, or wheat starch. It may be modified or unmodified (also called "native").

[0063] Preferably, the starch according to the invention is also not modified by chemical or physical means. Preferably, said starch is also not modified by cross-linking with functional agents capable of reacting with the hydroxyl groups of the starch molecules.

[0064] Said starch according to the invention comprises native starch. Preferably, the starch is native maize starch.

[0065] The starch used in the composition of the invention is in particulate form. The average size of the starch particles, corresponding to the average mass diameter (D50) measured by laser granulometry, is, in the dry or unhydrated state, in the range of 5 to 30 pm, preferably from 5 to 20 pm, preferably from 10 to 20 pm.

[0066] Preferably, the starch content is from 0.1 to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 4% by weight, preferably from 2 to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Of course, the content is expressed as active matter. Gum of vegetable or microbial origin

[0067] The composition of the invention comprises at least one gum of vegetable or microbial origin used as a stabilizer and / or a thickening agent (thickener).

[0068] Examples of gums of vegetable or microbial origin include: gums derived from seeds or plant exudates such as gum arabic, the konjac gum, guar gum, locust bean gum, tragacanth gum, tara gum, cassia gum, karaya gum, psyllium gum, pectin or their derivatives and mixtures; gums extracted from algae such as agar-agar, galacto-mannans, alginates or carrageenans or their derivatives and mixtures; and gums obtained from microbial fermentation such as xanthan gum, gellans, mannans, scleroglucans or their derivatives and mixtures.

[0069] Non-limiting examples of thickeners include: sclerotium gum, xanthan gum, carrageenan, acacia gum, agar-agar, algin, alginic acid, ammonium alginate, amylopectin, calcium alginate, sodium alginate, calcium carrageenan, carnitine, carrageenan, dextrin, gelatin, gellan gum, guar gum, tragacanth gum, acacia gum, gum arabic, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, guar hydroxypropyl, karaya gum, locust bean gum, natto gum, potassium alginate, potassium carrageenan, propylene glycol alginate, sodium carboxymethyl dextran, sodium carrageenan, tragacanth gum, xanthan gum, modified xanthan gum, and mixtures thereof.

[0070] Preferably, the composition comprises one or more of the following: carrageenan, xanthan gum, sclerotium gum, or a combination thereof. Preferably, the gum(s) is / are present in a concentration of 0.1 to 5%, preferably 0.5 to 3%, preferably 0.5 to 2% by weight, of the composition, preferably in a concentration of 1 to 2% by weight, of the total weight of the composition.

[0071] Preferably, the acne treatment composition includes carrageenan as a particularly preferred stabilizing / thickening agent, preferably at a content of 1 to 2%, by weight, of the total weight of the composition. Anionic surfactant isethionate

[0072] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one anionic isethionate surfactant.

[0073] Preferably, said anionic surfactant isethionate is a C6-C24 acylisethionate, in particular a C10-C20 acylisethionate, more preferably a cocoyl isethionate, even more preferably an alkali metal salt of cocoyl isethionate and even more preferably sodium cocoyl isethionate.

[0074] For example, sodium cocoyl isethionate is marketed under the name Hostapon® SCI by Clariant or under the name Jordapon® CI by BASF.

[0075] The anionic isethionate surfactant(s) may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 1 to 20% by weight of active material, preferably from 2 to 18% by weight, and more preferably from 5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0076] The composition according to the invention may include, or alternatively be substantially free from, or exclude one or more nonionic, cationic, or other anionic surfactants. In some embodiments, the composition according to the invention excludes all surfactants except the anionic surfactant isethionate, or even excludes all surfactants except sodium cocoyl isethionate.

[0077] Alternatively or in addition, the composition according to the invention may optionally include further surfactants. Advantageously, the composition also includes at least one additional surfactant selected from glyceryl oleate, glyceryl stearate, and cetyl alcohol. Preferably, the composition includes at least glyceryl stearate PA in addition to sodium cocoyl isethionate. Hydroxyacids

[0078] Furthermore, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one hydroxy acid different from the PHA(s), selected from alpha-hydroxy acids, beta-hydroxy acids, and mixtures thereof.

[0079] Alpha-hydroxy acids (also called AHAs or alpha-hydroxy acids)

[0080] By "alpha-hydroxyl acid" is meant a carboxylic acid having at least one hydroxyl functional group occupying an alpha position on said acid (carbon adjacent to a carboxylic acid functional group).

[0081] The α-hydroxy acids (alpha-hydroxy acids) are in particular selected from glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, methyllactic acid, glucuronic acid, pyruvic acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxynonanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyundecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetracosanoic acid, 2-hydroxyeicosanoic acid; Mandelic acid; phenyllactic acid; gluconic acid; galacturonic acid; aleuritic acid; ribonic acid; tartronic acid; tartaric acid; malic acid; fumaric acid; their esters, salts, and mixtures. Mixtures of these different acids may also be used.

[0082] Advantageously, the alpha hydroxy acid(s) is / are selected from glycolic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, mandelic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, their esters, salts, and mixtures thereof. Thus, glycolic acid (which is derived from sugar cane) is one of the most effective AHAs because its smaller molecule allows it to exfoliate more deeply into the skin. It refines skin texture and brightens the complexion. Glycolic acid is also said to have a slight effect reducing sebum production. Lactic acid comes from the fermentation of milk, but it is also found in several fruits. It is one of the gentlest acids, making it ideal for dry and sensitive skin. It is an excellent natural humectant, attracting and retaining water in the skin. Malic acid is found in apples, pears, and grapes. It is often used in cosmetic preparations to rebalance their pH, but on the skin, it is also believed to have moisturizing properties and to help stimulate collagen production. Its small molecular size allows it to penetrate very deeply into the skin. Mandelic acid, derived from almonds, is one of the gentlest AHAs because its molecular size is larger than other acids, thus limiting its ability to penetrate deeply into the skin. It acts primarily on the surface and is therefore less irritating than other, more intensely active acids.It also helps reduce hyperpigmentation and even out skin tone. Tartaric acid is derived from grapes. This acid has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Citric acid comes from citrus fruits. It is mainly used for its brightening properties on dark spots and hyperpigmentation. It is also astringent and can therefore reduce pore size. Advantageously, the aqueous composition according to the invention uses several AHAs in such a way as to combine their effects.

[0083] More particularly, the alphahydroxy acid(s) is chosen from glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, their salts, their esters, and their mixtures.

[0084] Ester derivatives include, in particular, ester compounds of glycolic acid, lactic acid, such as methyl lactate, ethyl lactate, butyl lactate and, likewise, ester compounds of glycolic acid, tartaric acid, mandelic acid, citric acid.

[0085] Alpha-hydroxy acids particularly suitable in the composition of the present invention are glycolic acid, lactic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0086] Preferably, the alpha-hydroxy acid in the aqueous composition of the present invention is glycolic acid.

[0087] Beta-hydroxy acids (also called BHA or beta-hydroxy acids)

[0088] For the purposes of this invention, "beta-hydroxy acid" means a carboxylic acid having a hydroxyl functional group and a carboxylic functional group separated by two carbon atoms.

[0089] The beta-hydroxy acid(s) are selected in particular from: salicylic acid, beta-hydroxypropionic acid, beta-hydroxybutyric acid, beta-hydroxymethylbutyric acid, carnitine, their derivatives and combinations. Preferably, the beta-hydroxy acid is selected from salicylic acid and its derivatives.

[0090] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one compound selected from salicylic acid and its derivatives.

[0091] Salicylic acid, or 2-hydroxybenzoic acid, is an active agent, particularly for treating imperfections.

[0092] Alternatively, a salicylic acid derivative is present. The salicylic acid derivatives are preferably those of formula (I):

[0093] [Chem.l]

[0094] in which: - the radical R designates an aliphatic chain having from 2 to 22 carbon atoms, saturated, linear, branched or cyclic; an unsaturated chain having from 2 to 22 carbon atoms containing one or more double bonds which may be conjugated; an aromatic ring linked to the carbonyl radical directly or via saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chains having from 2 to 7 carbon atoms; said rings and chains being able to be substituted by one or more substituents, identical or different, chosen from (a) halogen atoms (b) the trifluoromethyl group, (c) hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified by an acid having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or (d) a carboxyl function in free form or esterified by a lower alcohol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; - R' is a hydroxyl group or ester group of formula -OC(O)-R1 in which RI denotes an aliphatic chain, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms; - as well as their salts derived from a mineral or organic base.

[0095] Preferably: - the radical R designates a saturated aliphatic chain, linear, branched or cyclic, containing from 3 to 11 carbon atoms; an unsaturated chain containing from 3 to 17 carbon atoms and comprising one or more conjugated or non-conjugated double bonds; said hydrocarbon chains being able to be substituted by one or more substituents, identical or different, chosen from (a) halogen atoms, (b) the trifluoromethyl group, (c) hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified by an acid having 1 to 6 carbon atoms or (d) a carboxyl function in free form or esterified by a lower alcohol having 1 to 6 carbon atoms; - R' is a hydroxyl group or ester group of formula -OC(O)-R1 in which RI denotes a radical -(CH2)n-CH3 where n is a number from 0 to 14; - as well as their salts obtained by salification with a mineral or organic base.

[0096] The most preferred compounds are those in which the radical R is a C3-C11 alkyl group and R' denotes hydroxyl. Other compounds of particular interest are those in which R represents a chain derived from linoleic, linolenic, or oleic acid. Another group of particularly preferred compounds consists of compounds in which the radical R denotes a C3-C11 alkyl group bearing a carboxyl function in free form or esterified by a lower alcohol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and R' denotes hydroxyl.

[0097] As preferred derivatives of salicylic acid, the following may therefore be cited: 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid (or capryloyl salicylic acid), 5-n-decanoylsalicylic acid, 5 n-dodecanoylsalicylic acid or 5-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid, and their corresponding salts.

[0098] Preferably, the beta-hydroxy acid is salicylic acid.

[0099] Advantageously, salicylic acid, or 2-hydroxybenzoic acid, is used as the sole hydroxy acid or in combination with an AHA to ensure increased penetration of the composition into the skin.

[0100] For the purposes of this invention, salts of these hydroxy acids are also considered. The salts can be obtained by saltification of the acid in question with an organic or mineral base. Mineral bases include, in particular, hydroxylated alkali or alkaline earth bases, such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, and ammonia. Organic bases include, in particular, amine or alkanolamine bases.

[0101] Advantageously, the hydroxyacid(s) are present in the composition of the present invention in a content ranging from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 10% by weight, by weight (of active material) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0102] Preferably, the alpha-hydroxy acid(s) and / or beta-hydroxy acid(s) are present in a content in the range of 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 5% by weight, preferably 1 to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. Cationic polymer

[0103] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one cationic polymer selected from natural polymers that are polysaccharides, and other natural (i.e., plant-, animal- or bacteria-based), synthetic or modified cationic polymers of natural or synthetic origin.

[0104] Said at least one cationic polymer is preferably chosen from the group consisting of chitosan, chitosan oligosaccharide, chitin, polylysine, cationic cellulose, and their combinations.

[0105] Preferably, the cationic polymer is a natural polymer. A natural cationic polymer can be chosen from cationic forms and cationic derivatives of polysaccharides isolated from algae, polysaccharides produced by microorganisms and polysaccharides from higher plants, such as homogeneous polysaccharides.

[0106] Advantageously, the cationic polymer is a polysaccharide derived from D-glucosamine and N-acetyl-D-glucosamine linked in [3]. A particularly preferred cationic polymer is chitosan.

[0107] Preferably, the composition comprises at least one natural cationic polymer comprising chitosan, in particular selected from chitosan oligosaccharide, chitosan polymer having a molecular weight (Mw) in the range of 1 kDa to 1000 kDa, chitosan derivatives, including derivatives having improved solubility, or combinations thereof. Preferably, the chitosan has a molecular weight (Mw) in the range of 1 kDa to 1000 kDa.

[0108] Alternatively or complementarily, the composition according to the invention may include any other cationic polymer, including a natural or synthetic polymer. Preferred synthetic polymers are non-siliconized and may be selected, in particular, from the group consisting of polyquaterniums, i.e., polymers having quaternary ammonium centers in the polymer, for example, polyquaternium-47. The synthetic polymer may include cationic acrylic polymers, for example, an amorphous functional acrylic polymer grafted onto a polyethylene backbone such as SYNTRAN (TM) 5330, which is a modified quaternary olefin grafting technology. Synthetic polymers may also be selected from polyacrylates such as those identified in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook (9th ed.2002) such as, for example, polyacrylate-1, polyacrylate-2, polyacrylate-3, polyacrylate-4, polyacrylate-16, polyacrylate-17, polyacrylate-18, polyacrylate-19, polyacrylate-21, and their mixtures.

[0109] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is substantially free of (meth)acrylic polymer. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is substantially free of silicone.

[0110] By "substantially free of (meth)acrylic polymer" is meant that the composition comprises less than 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.3% by weight, preferably 0.1% by weight of (meth)acrylic polymer. Preferably, the composition is totally free of (meth)acrylic polymer. By (meth)acrylic polymer is meant a polymer comprising at least one acrylic acid monomer or at least one methacrylic acid monomer.

[0111] By "substantially silicone-free" is meant that the composition comprises less than 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.3% by weight, preferably 0.1% by weight of silicone. Preferably, the composition is totally silicone-free. Silicone is understood to mean any silicone compound.

[0112] Advantageously, said at least one cationic polymer is present in the composition according to the invention, in a content of 0.01% to 2%, preferably 0.05% to 1%, or better still 0.05% to 0.5%, by weight on the total weight of the composition.

[0113] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises chitosan in a content in the range of 0.01 to 2%, preferably 0.05 to 1%, preferably 0.05 to 0.5%, preferably 0.08 to 0.3%, by weight on the total weight of the composition. Glycolipid

[0114] Optionally, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more glycolipids. In this case, the amount of glycolipids, including rhamnolipids, may be from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably 1% to 7%, preferably 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The term "glycolipid" is understood to mean a compound formed from a lipid to which one or more sugar compounds are attached.

[0115] The glycolipid(s) may be selected from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids, glucolipids, trehalolipids, cellobiose lipids and mixtures thereof.

[0116] The glycolipid(s) are preferably chosen from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids and mixtures thereof, preferably rhamnolipids. Rhamnolipids

[0117] Rhamnolipids are glycolipids produced by various bacterial species. They consist of one fragment of rhamnose (mono-rhamnolipid) or two fragments of rhamnose (di-rhamnolipid) linked by a glycosidic bond to one, two or three chains of [3-hydroxylated] fatty acids linked together by an ester bond.

[0118] Rhamnolipids are usually prepared by processes known to those skilled in the art from bacterial producers, such as Pseudomonas. Suitable fermentation methods are reviewed by D. Haferburg, R. Hommel, R. Claus and HP Kleber in Adv. Biochem. Ing. / Biotechnol. (1986), 33, 53-90, and by F. Wagner, H. Bock and A. Kretschmar in Fermentation (ed. RM Lafferty) (1981), 181-192, Springer Verlag, Vienna.

[0119] The rhamnolipide sold under the name Rheance One by Evonik (INCI name: glycolipides) can be used as a rhamnolipide.

[0120] The amount of rhamnolipids may be from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 1% to 7%, preferably from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Aqueous phase

[0121] The composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous phase.

[0122] The aqueous phase comprises water and optionally ingredients soluble or miscible in water such as water-soluble solvents. Water

[0123] The water used may be sterile demineralized water and / or floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or linden water, and / or natural thermal or mineral water, such as for example: Vittel water, Vichy basin waters, Uriage water, La Roche-Posay water, La Bourboule water, Enghien-les-Bains water, Saint-Gervais-les-Bains water, Néris-les-Bains water, Allevar-les-Bains water, Digne water, Maizières water, Neyrac-les-Bains water, Lons-le-Saunier water, Eaux-Bonnes water, Rochefort water, Saint-Christau water, Fumades water and water from Tercis-les-bains, Avene water. The aqueous phase can also include reconstituted thermal water, that is to say water containing trace elements such as zinc, copper, magnesium, etc., reconstituting the characteristics of thermal water.

[0124] The aqueous phase may also include reconstituted thermal water, i.e. water including trace elements such as zinc, copper, magnesium, etc., reconstituting the characteristics of thermal water.

[0125] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention has a pH of 4.7 to 5.9, a pH compatible with its use as an acne treatment composition. According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the composition has a pH greater than or equal to 5, which notably optimizes its stability.

[0126] The pH can be adjusted to the desired value by adding a base (organic or inorganic), for example sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or another suitable base, or combinations thereof.

[0127] The water content is advantageously in the range of 20 to 70%, preferably 25 to 55%, preferably 25 to 50%, preferably 28 to 48%, preferably 30 to 45%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Water-soluble solvents

[0128] In the present invention, a water-soluble solvent is defined as a compound that is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25°C and atmospheric pressure).

[0129] The water-soluble solvents usable in the composition of the invention may also be volatile.

[0130] Among the water-soluble solvents that can be used in the composition according to the invention, one may mention in particular polyols comprising from 3 to 10 carbon atoms. "Polyols" is understood to mean any organic molecule having at least two free hydroxyl groups. Examples of polyols include glycerin, glycols such as butylene glycol, propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, polyethylene glycols, and polypropylene glycol. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the polyol is selected from glycerin and hexylene glycol. Preferably, the polyol is glycerin.

[0131] One can also mention lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol and isopropanol. Ethanol is preferred. The addition of such an alcohol may be more suitable when the composition according to the invention is used as a body or hair product.

[0132] The content of water-soluble or water-dispersible solvent(s) in the composition of the invention can range, for example, from 0 to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, and even more preferably from 5 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0133] Preferably, the water-soluble solvent comprises at least one polyol, preferably glycerin, in a concentration of 5 to 30%, preferably 10 to 30%, preferably 15 to 25%, by weight of the total weight of the composition. Adjuvants and active ingredients

[0134] The compositions of the invention may contain adjuvants commonly used in the cosmetic field, and in particular those used in skin care products, and in particular for acne-prone skin.

[0135] Examples of adjuvants include perfumes, preservatives, pigments, mother-of-pearl, mineral or organic fillers, mattifying, whitening or exfoliating agents, soluble colorants, sunscreens, cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients such as water-soluble or fat-soluble vitamins, Antiseptics, antiseborrheic agents, antimicrobials such as benzoyl peroxide, triclosan, and azelaic acid, as well as optical brighteners and fatty substances incompatible with aqueous environments, such as oils or waxes, may be used. The quantities of these various additives are those typically used in the relevant field, for example, from 0.01% to 25% of the total weight of the composition. These additives and their concentrations must be such that they do not alter the desired property of the composition of the invention.

[0136] Preferably, the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one additive selected from sodium hydroxide, niacinamide, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, ceramides and their combinations.

[0137] The pH is preferably between 4.7 and 5.9. Composition form

[0138] The form of the compositions according to the present invention is not particularly limited. In general, the composition according to the present invention can be liquid, semi-liquid, or solid at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (105 Pa). The composition can take various forms, such as a solution, an aqueous solution, a lotion, a milky lotion, a cream, a gel, a liquid gel, a paste, a serum, a suspension, a dispersion, a fluid, a milk, an emulsion (O / W or W / H form), etc.

[0139] Preferably, the compositions according to the present invention are in paste form. In particular, the compositions of the present invention have a unique paste-like texture similar to wasabi.

[0140] The compositions according to the present invention are preferably used as cosmetic skincare compositions, and in particular for facial skin.

[0141] In certain particular embodiments, the wasabi-type paste can be used as a 2-in-1 or even 3-in-1 composition for acne-prone skin, in the form of a single product which includes: a daily purifying skin cleanser to be mixed with water, a localized drying treatment for night and / or day in its original form and / or a mask when applied in layers to a damp face.

[0142] The compositions can be used as a daily purifying skin cleanser, to be mixed with water, applied and rubbed onto the skin, then rinsed off with water after a short period. For localized treatment, the compositions in their original paste form can be applied, for example, to an area of ​​skin containing one or more blemishes to be treated and / or concealed, and rinsed off with water after a prolonged period, for example, overnight or during the day, under makeup applied to the area. As a mask, the compositions can be applied in layers to a face moistened and kept on the skin for a set period of time, then rinsed with water.

[0143] Thus, the composition according to the invention is a daily skin cleanser to be mixed with water and / or is a localized night treatment or a localized day treatment to be applied under makeup and / or a mask to be applied in a layer on the face, whether moistened or not.

[0144] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises: a clay, preferably kaolin, in a content of 10 to 20% by weight; starch, preferably maize starch, in a content of 1 to 4% by weight; a gum of vegetable or microbial origin, preferably carrageenan, in a content of 0.1 to 5% by weight; at least one salicylic acid or its derivatives in a content of 0.5 to 5% by weight; an anionic isethionate surfactant, preferably sodium cocoyl isethionate, in a content of 2 to 18% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; at least one cationic polymer, preferably comprising chitosan; and cosmetically acceptable solvents comprising water and glycerin, present from about 10% to about 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; in which the pH of the composition is preferably from about 3.5 to about 6.5;in which the composition is advantageously suited to 3-in-1 paste formulas for acne-prone skin as a skin cleanser, as a spot treatment and as a mask. ;

[0145] Throughout the application, the expression "includes a" or "comprises a" should be understood as meaning "containing at least one" or "comprising at least one", unless otherwise specified.

[0146] The following examples will help to better understand the invention, but are not intended to be limiting. Raw materials are named by their chemical or INCI name. Unless otherwise stated, quantities are expressed as a percentage by weight of raw materials relative to the total weight of the composition (% w / w). Examples

[0147] Preparation of a composition according to the invention and comparisons with comparative compositions Preparation

[0148] The compositions Ex according to the invention, and comparative Cp outside the invention, were prepared by mixing the ingredients of Table 1.

[0149] The mixtures were made ensuring that all ingredients and surfactants were completely melted at 70°C before incorporating the clays and actives.

[0150] [Tables 1] INCI Cpl Ex2 Ex3 WATER QSP 100 QSP 100 QSP 100 GLYCERIN 20.00 20.00 20.10 KAOLIN 15.00 15.00 15.00 SODIUM COCOYL ISETHIONATE E 10.00 10.00 10.00 GLYCERYL STEARATE SE 5.00 5.00 5.00 ZEA MAYS (CORN) STARCH 3.00 3.00 CETYL ALCOHOL 2.50 2.50 2.50 SALICYLIC ACID 2.00 2.00 2.00 GLYCOLIPIDS 1.35 1.35 CARRAGEENAN 1.00 1.00 1.00 SODIUM HYDROXIDE 0.45 0.45 0.45 TRISODIUM ETHYLENEDIAMIN E DISUCCINATE 0.19 0.19 0.19 LACTIC ACID 0.05 0.05 0.05 CHITOSAN 0.09 0.09 0.09

[0151] Example 1: Drying time of the anti-acne paste composition with and without starch

[0152] Protocol: The drying time of an identical predetermined quantity of paste with and without starch was measured by a panel of trained experts (10 people), after application of the quantity of paste to the skin by each person PI to P10 (identical predetermined surface)

[0153] [Tables2] NAME DOUGH WITHOUT STARCH (Cpl) DOUGH WITH STARCH (Ex3) P1 15 min 4 min (1st preference) P2 9.9 min 8 min 20 s (1st preference) P3 12 min 8 min (1st preference) P4 20 min 2 min 10 s (1st preference) P5 18 min 2 min 30 s (1st preference) P6 Not dried 5 min (1st preference) P7 Not dried 5 min 30 s (1st preference) P8 13 min 7 min (1st preference) P9 10 min 3 min (1st preference) P10 18 min 4 min (1st preference)

[0154] Results: Compared to the comparative composition without starch (Cpl), the composition according to the invention (Ex3) with starch, has a shorter drying time and is preferred by all PI-P 10 people in the panel.

[0155] Example 2 l Comparison of sensory profiles of anti-acne paste compositions, with and without starch.

[0156] The following table indicates the score obtained on a scale of 0 to 15, for various sensory attributes.

[0157] [Tables3] SENSORY ATTRIBUTE Cpl Ex2 Appearance of the paste: Pearly 2 0 Shine 3 0.5 Smooth Appearance 3.5 0.5 Paste application: Elasticity 2 0.5 Retains its Shape 12 15 Finish on the skin after spreading the paste: Dry Skin 9 5 Tight Skin 10 6 Slippery Skin 9 11

[0158] Results: Compared to the comparative starch-free composition (Cpl), the composition according to the invention Ex2 has the following characteristics:

[0159] Appearance: absence of nacre, less shiny and smooth appearance.

[0160] Sampling: less elasticity, better hold of dough shape.

[0161] Finish on the skin: less dry and less tight skin, more slippery to the touch.

[0162] Example 3: Measurement of the dermo-protective effect of the Ex3 anti-acne paste according to the invention:

[0163] OBJECTIVE:

[0164] Objectively evaluate the effectiveness of Formula Ex3 on transepidermal water loss (TEWL) by biometrological measurements.

[0165] The skin-protective effect of the composition was demonstrated by an instrumental test measuring transepidermal water loss (TEWL), a parameter indicating the integrity of the skin barrier. An increase in TEWL indicates a disruption of this barrier.

[0166] Test protocol:

[0167] Panel: 24 women aged 18 to 65 years, with an initial TEWL > 6 gm-2.hl on the anterior aspect of the forearms.

[0168] Product application:

[0169] The product was applied according to the following protocol:

[0170] Moisten the treated area with a cotton ball soaked in 2 ml of demineralized water.

[0171] Application of the product by the technician in charge to the areas, at a rate of 2 mg / cm2, with a single-use finger cot, by gentle massage for 15 seconds.

[0172] Rinse the area for 15 seconds with 3 cotton pads soaked in 2 ml of demineralized water then dry by patting with absorbent paper.

[0173] Measurements: TEWL was measured using a Tewameter TM300 ® (Courage&Khazaka) at T0 (before application) and Tlh (1 hour after application) on treated and untreated areas (control).

[0174] Statistical analysis: Student's test to compare the variations of TEWL between T0 and Tlh for treated and untreated areas.

[0175] Results:

[0176] Average percentage improvement = [(Tn - T0) / T0) x 100] treated - [(Tn - T0) / T0) x 100] untreated, with: T0 = average of TEWL values ​​at T0, Tn = average of TEWL values ​​at Tn.

[0177] [Tables4] N=24 SITE MEAN + STANDARD DEVIATION SIGNIFICANCE VS. INITIAL T0 + STANDARD DEVIATION (T1H - T0) SIGNIFICANCE TREATED VS. UNTREATED T0 (initial) Untreated area 7.16 + 1.61 NS NS Treated area 7.16 + 1.50 T1h untreated area 6.90 + 1.71 S (p=0.033) - Student's t-test -0.27 + 0.58 Treated area 6.38 + 1.75 S (p<0.001) - Student's t-test -0.79 + 0.70 S (p=0.016) - Student's t-test -7.3%

[0178] One hour after application, the composition significantly reduced the TEWL on the treated area compared to the untreated area, thus demonstrating its dermo-protective effect.

[0179] Conclusion:

[0180] The present invention proposes a cosmetic composition exhibiting a dermo-protective effect demonstrated by a significant reduction in TEWL. This composition is particularly suitable for acne-prone skin.

[0181] Example 4: Clinical test of an anti-acne paste of composition Ex3 according to the invention

[0182] Protocol: Open-label, single-center study conducted under medical supervision. Number of subjects: 40 valid cases at the end of the study, corresponding to a minimum of 100 treated acne lesions and 100 untreated acne lesions. Study duration per subject: 2 days.

[0183] Efficacy of the anti-acne paste is measured on treated vs. untreated acne lesions

[0184] Under the conditions of the study, the anti-acne paste applied to selected treated inflammatory acne lesions showed a significant decrease in the diameter, relief, color intensity, and visibility of these lesions (see table below).

[0185] [Tables5] CHARACTERISTICS J1+8H J2+8H Diameter -8.40% * -19.90%* Relief -15.50% * -34.10% * Color intensity -22.90% * Visibility -20.30% *

[0186] *Statistically significant difference between lesions treated with a composition according to the invention Ex3 and untreated lesions.

[0187] From the first application of the composition of the invention for 8 hours on 100 inflammatory lesions (41 subjects), a statistically significant decrease in the diameter, relief, color intensity, and overall visibility of the lesions was observed, compared to the initial assessments and to equivalent untreated lesions, demonstrating that the composition according to the invention leads to a more rapid attenuation of the lesions. This efficacy was still observed and even more pronounced after a second application of the product for 8 hours on the same 100 inflammatory lesions.

[0188] Example _ 5 - Consumer tests _ on the formula of Ex3 _ j.

[0189] Evaluation of sensory acceptability and perceived drying time

[0190] (Qualitative test carried out in Germany)

[0191] Objective: To evaluate the sensory acceptability and perceived drying time of a cosmetic paste composition for the localized treatment of acne.

[0192] Methodology: A panel of 30 participants (15 men and 15 women), aged 18 to 35 years and with acne problems, applied the paste to their face as directed and provided a qualitative assessment of its performance.

[0193] Key results:

[0194] The majority of participants judged the drying time to be fast and suitable for nighttime use.

[0195] The formulation was generally well received, being described as pleasant, refreshing and providing a non-sticky finish.

[0196] Participants felt that the drying time was acceptable for use as a localized treatment.

[0197] Conclusion: These results suggest that the paste composition has favorable sensory properties and drying time profile, making it suitable for use as a localized acne treatment product.

[0198] Evaluation of perceived efficacy, cosmetic qualities and tolerance

[0199] {Consumer test carried out in France}

[0200] Objective: To evaluate the perceived efficacy, cosmetic qualities and tolerance of a cosmetic paste composition for the localized treatment of acne and as a mask.

[0201] Methodology: 114 men, aged 20 to 40 years with oily to combination skin, applied the paste topically to blemishes and as a mask for 4 weeks. Participants then provided self-assessments on the efficacy, cosmetic qualities, and tolerability of the product.

[0202] Key results:

[0203] Participants reported significant improvements in skin clarity, pore size and reduction of blemishes after 4 weeks of use.

[0204] The paste was well tolerated, with no notable side effects reported.

[0205] Participants positively evaluated the cosmetic qualities of the paste, such as its texture, ease of application and non-greasy finish.

[0206] Conclusion: This test suggests that the paste composition is effective in reducing imperfections, improving skin clarity and has good cosmetic qualities and good tolerance for men with oily to combination skin.

[0207] Evaluation of perceived effectiveness and cosmetic qualities

[0208] (Consumer test conducted in the United Kingdom)

[0209] Objective: To confirm the perceived efficacy and cosmetic qualities of a cosmetic paste composition for the localized treatment of acne.

[0210] Methodology: 188 participants (105 women and 83 men), aged 20 to 35 years and with visible blemishes and pores, applied the paste to their facial imperfections for 28 days. Perceived efficacy and cosmetic qualities were assessed by self-evaluation.

[0211] Key results:

[0212] Participants reported significant improvements in the appearance of blemishes, pore size, and overall skin texture after 28 days of use.

[0213] The paste has received positive evaluations for its cosmetic qualities, including its light texture, rapid absorption capacity and matte finish.

[0214] Conclusion: This study confirms the perceived efficacy and cosmetic qualities of the paste composition as an effective localized treatment to reduce the appearance of imperfections and improve overall skin texture. Summary of test results:

[0215] Qualitative tests conducted in Germany revealed that the paste formulation was well received by consumers, who appreciated the quick drying time and non-sticky finish. The majority of participants found the drying time suitable for nighttime use, and the overall formulation was perceived as pleasant and refreshing.

[0216] Large-scale consumer tests conducted in France and the United Kingdom confirmed the perceived efficacy and cosmetic qualities of the paste's composition. Participants reported a significant reduction in the appearance of acne after 4 weeks of use. The product was also well tolerated, with no notable side effects reported.

[0217] The composition of the present invention therefore has many advantages: quick drying, non-sticky finish, convenient application throughout the day and night, gentle and non-irritating product, suitable for sensitive skin, improved hydration and sebum control, proven effectiveness in reducing acne.

[0218] Conclusion:

[0219] The topical cosmetic composition of the present invention offers a novel and effective approach to the localized treatment of acne. Its rapid drying time, non-sticky finish, and additional skin benefits make it an ideal product for consumers seeking a convenient and effective acne solution.

Claims

Demands

1. Aqueous cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least the following ingredients: a. clay, b. starch, c. gum of vegetable or microbial origin, d. anionic isethionate surfactant, e. cationic polymer, and f. alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) and / or beta-hydroxy acid (BHA).

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein said anionic surfactant isethionate is a C6-C24 acylisethionate, in particular a C10-C20 acylisethionate, more preferably a cocoyl isethionate, even more preferably an alkali metal salt of cocoyl isethionate and even more preferably sodium cocoyl isethionate.

3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the content of anionic isethionate surfactant(s) is in the range of 1 to 20% by weight of active material, preferably 2 to 18% by weight, and more preferably 5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the clay (or clays) is selected from kaolinite, kaolin, montmorillonites, saponites, laponites, bentonites, hectorites, stevensites and illites; preferably the clays used are unmodified clays, preferably natural; preferably the clay is kaolin.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the clay content is in the range of 5 to 25%, preferably 10 to 20%, preferably 12 to 18%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said at least one starch is a native starch, preferably selected from: maize, tapioca, rice, wheat, cassava, barley, potato, sorghum, pea starch, and mixtures thereof; preferably the starch comprises, or is, native maize starch; preferably, the starch constitutes a content of 0.1 to 5% by weight, and more preferably of 1 to 4% by weight,

7.

8. preferably 2 to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the gum of vegetable or microbial origin is selected from: gums derived from seeds or plant exudates such as gum arabic, konjac gum, guar gum, locust bean gum, tragacanth gum, tara gum, cassia gum, karaya gum, psyllium gum, pectin or their derivatives and mixtures; gums extracted from algae such as agar-agar, galacto-mannans, alginates or carrageenans or their derivatives and mixtures; and gums obtained from microbial fermentation such as xanthan gum, gellans, mannans, scleroglucans or their derivatives and mixtures, preferably selected from: carrageenan, xanthan gum, sclerotium gum, and mixtures thereof;preferably the gum(s) being present in a content of 0.1 to 5%, preferably 0.5 to 3%, preferably 0.5 to 2% by weight, on the weight of the composition, preferably in a content of 1 to 2% by weight, on the total weight of the composition.; Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein: - said alpha-hydroxy acid(s) (AHA) is selected from: glycolic acid; citric acid, lactic acid, methyllactic acid, glucuronic acid, pyruvic acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxynonanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyundecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetracosanoic acid, 2-hydroxyeicosanoic acid; mandelic acid; phenyllactic acid; galacturonic acid; aleuritic acid; ribonic acid; tartronic acid; tartaric acid; malic acid; fumaric acid; their salts and mixtures;preferably the alpha hydroxy acid is chosen from glycolic acid, citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid, and their salts; more particularly the alpha hydroxy acid is chosen from glycolic acid, acid; citric acid, lactic acid, their salts and mixtures thereof, and preferably said AHA is glycolic acid; and / or - said beta-hydroxy acid(s) (BHA) is selected from: salicylic acid and its derivatives, preferably selected from salicylic acid, 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-decanoylsalicylic acid, 5 n-dodecanoylsalicylic acid and 5-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid, preferably said BHA is salicylic acid.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the alpha-hydroxy acid(s) and / or beta-hydroxy acid(s) are present in a content in the range of 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 5% by weight, preferably 1 to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one glycolipid selected from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids, glucolipids, trehalolipids, cellobiose lipids and mixtures thereof, preferably the glycolipid comprising a rhamnolipid; preferably the amount of glycolipid(s) being in the range of 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in the range of 1 to 7%, preferably 2 to 5%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the cationic polymer is selected from: chitosan, chitosan oligosaccharide, chitin, polylysine, cationic cellulose, polyquatemiums, cationic acrylic polymers, polyacrylates, and mixtures thereof; preferably the content of the cationic polymer(s) is in the range of 0.01% to 2%, preferably 0.05% to 1%, or more preferably 0.05% to 0.5%, by weight on the total weight of the composition; preferably said composition comprising chitosan in a content in the range of 0.01% to 2%, preferably 0.05% to 1%, preferably 0.05% to 0.5%, preferably 0.08% to 0.3%, by weight on the total weight of the composition.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the water content is in the range of 20 to 70%, preferably 25 to 55%, preferably 30 to 45%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the polyol content, preferably glycerin, is in the range of 5% to 30%, preferably 10% to 30%, preferably 15% to 25%, by weight on the total weight of the composition.

14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition is in the form of a paste, in particular in the form of a wasabi texture paste.

15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition is a composition intended to treat, moisturize and / or cleanse acne-prone skin; preferably the composition is adapted to 2-in-1 or 3-in-1 paste formulations for acne-prone skin as a skin cleanser, as a spot treatment and / or as a mask.

16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition is a daily skin cleanser to be mixed with water.

17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition is in a form suitable for localized night treatment and / or localized day treatment to be applied under makeup.

18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition is a mask suitable for layering on the face, whether moistened or not.

19. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition comprises at least: a. a clay, preferably kaolin, preferably in a content of 10 to 20% by weight; b. starch, preferably maize starch, preferably in a content of 1 to 4% by weight; c. a gum of vegetable or microbial origin, preferably carrageenan, preferably in a content of 0.1 to 5% by weight; d. an anionic isethionate surfactant, preferably sodium cocoyl isethionate, preferably in a content of 2 to 18% by weight. e. a cationic polymer, preferably comprising chitosan, f. at least one salicylic acid or its derivatives in a content of 0.5 to 5% by weight, g. of water and h. of glycerin present in a content of about 10 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; wherein the pH of the composition is preferably from about 3.5 to about 6.5; wherein the composition is advantageously suited to 2-in-l or 3-in-l paste formulations for acne-prone skin as a skin cleanser, as a localized treatment and / or as a mask.