Composition comprising a polyester and an amorphous hydrocarbon sequenced polymer

Abstract

Composition comprising a polyester and an amorphous hydrocarbon sequenced copolymer. The invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a) a polyester which is the reaction product of the following components (i), (ii) and (iii): (i) a polyglycerol-3, (ii) a dimer acid, and (iii) a mono-fatty acid having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the components (i), (ii) and (iii) reacting being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, from 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and from 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of mono-fatty acid, b) from 0.2% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition of an amorphous hydrocarbon sequenced copolymer, said polyester and said sequenced copolymer being present in a weight ratio polyester / sequenced copolymer greater than 6.5 and less than or equal to 150.The invention also relates to a method of makeup or care for keratinous materials in which the composition is applied to the keratinous materials.

Description

Title of the invention: Composition comprising a polyester and an amorphous hydrocarbon sequenced polymer. Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising a particular polyester and an amorphous hydrocarbon sequenced copolymer. It also relates to a method for the treatment or makeup of keratinous materials using the composition. Previous technique

[0002] Makeup or skincare products, such as foundations, eyeliners, lipsticks, or eyelash products like mascaras, generally contain fatty substances, such as oils, waxes, pigments, and / or fillers. When applied to the skin or eyelashes, these compositions leave a film that does not always offer good resistance to water, during swimming or showering, and / or to tears, perspiration, sebum, or friction from fingers or clothing. The film is thus weakened, and the makeup no longer lasts.

[0003] On the other hand, these compositions also have the disadvantage of transferring, that is, of settling at least partially, leaving traces on certain surfaces with which they may come into contact, including a glass, a cup, a cigarette, clothing, or skin. This results in poor longevity of the applied film, requiring regular reapplication of the makeup. Furthermore, the appearance of unacceptable traces, particularly on blouse collars, may deter some women from using this type of makeup.

[0004] To improve adhesion properties, it is known to use styrenic block copolymers such as those described in US patents 5221534 and EP 1862162 Bl. However, these copolymers present formulation constraints: they are difficult to solubilize in lipophilic phases and they increase the viscosity of the compositions. They also have the disadvantage of producing a sticky and inhibiting effect when the composition is applied to keratinous materials.

[0005] Moreover, consumers are increasingly looking for products whose ingredients are natural or of natural origin, without giving up the performance they are used to with the products used.

[0006] The formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, that is to say, whose design and development take into account environmental issues, is becoming a major concern in order to help meet global challenges.

[0007] It is therefore essential to propose more sustainable compositions and / or preparation processes and / or ingredients, thus enabling us to meet these environmental challenges.

[0008] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions that promote the use of renewable and / or natural raw materials, and more particularly of plant origin, while reducing the use of petrochemical compounds. Description of the invention

[0009] The present invention therefore aims to provide a composition that does not have the above disadvantages and leads to the formation of a film with good non-transfer properties, particularly when dry and in the presence of oil, while reducing the content of hydrocarbon block copolymers as much as possible.

[0010] The applicant has found, surprisingly, that combining a particular polyester with an amorphous hydrocarbon block copolymer, as defined below, produces a film with good non-transfer properties. The film does not transfer, or transfers very little, when dry or in the presence of oil. This combination also allows for a reduction in the hydrocarbon block copolymer content. Summary of the invention

[0011] More specifically, the present invention relates to a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium,

[0012] a) a polyester that is the reaction product of the following components (i), (ii) and (iii): (i) at least one polyglycerol-3 (ii) at least one dimeric acid, and (iii) at least one fatty acid mono-compound having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the components (i), (ii) and (iii) reacted being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, from 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and from 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of fatty acid mono-compound,

[0013] b) from 0.2% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of an amorphous hydrocarbon sequenced copolymer,

[0014] said polyester and said sequenced copolymer being present in a weight ratio polyester / sequenced copolymer greater than or equal to 6.5 and less than or equal to 150.

[0015] The invention also relates to a method for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising the application to said keratinous materials of a composition as defined above. Detailed description

[0016] Advantageously, said polyester and said amorphous hydrocarbon sequenced copolymer may be present in the composition according to the invention in a ratio weight of polyester / sequenced copolymer ranging from 6.5 to 150, and preferably ranging from 7 to 100, preferably ranging from 10 to 75.

[0017] POLYGLYCEROL-3 POLYESTER / DIMER ACID / FATTY MONO ACID

[0018] The composition according to the invention comprises a polyester which is the reaction product of the following components (i), (ii) and (iii): (i) at least one polyglycerol-3; (ii) at least one dimeric acid; and (iii) at least one mono-fatty acid having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the components (i), (ii) and (iii) reacted being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and from 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of fatty acids.

[0019] The term "polyester" refers to any polymer obtained by the condensation reaction of polycarboxylic acids with alcohols or glycols. Its macromolecular skeleton contains a repeating ester functional group. The ester functional group is a characteristic group formed by an atom bonded simultaneously to an oxygen atom by a double bond and to an alkoxy group. When the bonded atom is a carbon atom, it is called a carboxylic ester, whose general formula is R-COO-R'.

[0020] By "polyglycerol-3" is meant triglycerol alone or a mixture of polyglycerols comprising at least triglycerol, and preferably triglycerol is the major component in said mixture.

[0021] The polyesters of the invention are described together with their synthesis in US patent applications 2021 / 0259945, US 2021 / 0259946 and US 2021 / 0259930 in the name of Nouryon.

[0022] According to a preferred embodiment, the polyester is a substantially or totally non-sequential reaction product.

[0023] By "substantially non-sequential reaction product", we mean the product obtained by a substantially non-sequential reaction of the reactive components (i)-(iii).

[0024] By "totally non-sequential reaction of the reactant components (i)-(iii)", it is meant that the total content of each of the reactants (i)-(iii) to be reacted is added to the reaction vessel before starting the reaction.

[0025] In one embodiment of the present invention, the total contents of each of the reactants (i)-(iii) to be reacted are added to the reaction vessel before the reaction begins, i.e., the reaction is completely non-sequential, and the polymer is a completely non-sequential reaction product of components (i)-(iii). In other embodiments, 70-100%, or 75-100%, or 80-100%, or 85-100%, or 90-100%, or 95-100%, or 97-100% of each of the reactants (i)-(iü) are added to the reaction vessel before starting the reaction.

[0026] In one embodiment, the polyester is prepared by a one-step process which involves introducing all the reactants into a reaction vessel and then inducing a fully statistical addition of the dimer acid and the mono-fatty acid to polyglycerol-3. Polyglycerol-3

[0027] Triglycerol has the formula H-[-OGly]3-OH in which Gly designates a remainder of glycerol after the removal of two hydroxyl groups.

[0028] A polyglycerol-3 according to the invention in the form of a mixture of polyglycerols containing at least triglycerol comprises polyglycerols that may be any oligocondensation product of glycerol. They preferably conform to the formula (I): H[-O-Gly-]n-OH, in which each Gly is independently the residue of a glycerol molecule after the removal of two hydroxyl groups; and n is an average of 2 to 10.

[0029] Generally, most Gly groups are of the formula: -CH2-CHOH-CH2 -, although residues including etherification at the level of secondary or even tertiary hydroxyl groups are considered to be within the framework of "Gly" and, consequently, may also be present.

[0030] Examples of polyglycerol-3 in mixture form include diglycerol, triglycerol, tetraglycerol, pentaglycerol, hexaglycerol, heptaglycerol, octaglycerol, nonaglycerol, decaglycerol, and mixtures thereof. In particular, preferred polyglycerols are those of formula (I) in which n is in particular from 2 to 7, more particularly from 2 to 5, and especially 2, 3, or 4, or mixtures of polyglycerols in these ranges.

[0031] Particularly suitable examples of polyglycerol-3 include a mixture of polyglycerols having the following distribution in which all weight percentages are based with respect to the total weight of polyglycerol-3 in mixture form. - glycerol: 0 to 30% by weight, preferably 0 to 20% by weight, preferably 0 to 15% by weight; - diglycerol: 10 to 40% by weight, preferably 15 to 35% by weight, preferably 20 to 32% by weight; - triglycerol: 10 to 65% by weight, preferably 15 to 60% by weight, preferably 18 to 55% by weight; - tetraglycerol: 2 to 25% by weight, preferably 5 to 20% by weight, preferably 8 to 20% by weight; - pentaglycerol: 0 to 15% by weight, preferably 0 to 10% by weight, preferably 0 to 5% by weight; - hexaglycerol: 0 to 15% by weight, preferably 0 to 10% by weight, preferably 0 to 5% by weight; - heptaglycerol: 0 to 10% by weight, preferably 0 to 5% by weight, preferably 0 to 3% by weight; - octaglycerol: 0 to 10% by weight, preferably 0 to 5% by weight, preferably 0 to 3% by weight; - nonaglycerol: 0 to 5% by weight, preferably 0 to 3% by weight, preferably 0 to 2% by weight; - decaglycerol: 0 to 5% by weight, preferably 0 to 3% by weight, preferably 0 to 2% by weight.

[0032] In one embodiment, a polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture comprises the following polyglycerol distribution: Glycerol: 0 to 30% by weight; Diglycerol: 15 to 40% by weight; Triglycerol: 10 to 55% by weight; Tetraglycerol: 2 to 25% by weight; Pentaglycerol and higher components: 0 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of polyglycerol-3 as a mixture.

[0033] In one embodiment, a polyglycerol-3 in mixture form is composed of at least 40% by weight, or at least 45% by weight, or at least 50% by weight, of a combination of diglycerol and triglycerol relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in mixture form.

[0034] In one embodiment, a polyglycerol-3 is composed of at least 20% by weight, or at least 25% by weight of diglycerol; at least 15% by weight, or at least 18% by weight of triglycerol; at least 10% by weight, or at least 12% by weight of tetraglycerol; wherein all the weight percentages are relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in mixture form.

[0035] A particularly preferred polyglycerol-3 comprises at least 25% by weight of diglycerol, at least 45% by weight of triglycerol and at least 10% by weight of tetraglycerol relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in mixture form.

[0036] Analysis of such a polyglycerol-3 composition can be performed to determine its median or "mean" polyglycerol number. The examples of polyglycerols above with narrow and broad distributions can also be designated as polyglycerol-3, because it is the integer closest to the mean and / or the median. Dimer acid

[0037] The dimeric acid can be any dicarboxylic acid having at least 4 carbon atoms. They can be linear or branched, such as for example the dimers prepared from malonic acid, succinic acid, fumaric acid, dimethylglutaric acid or trimethyladipic acid, and their anhydrides.

[0038] Dimeric fatty acids are particularly useful. As is known, they are mixtures of acyclic and cyclic dicarboxylic acids obtained by a catalyzed dimerization reaction of unsaturated fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0039] For the preparation and use of dimer acids and their physical and chemical properties, reference should be made to the publication "The Dimer Acids: The Chemical and physical properties, reactions and applications", Ed. EC Leonard; Humko Sheffield Chemical, 1975, Memphis, Tenn.

[0040] Dicarboxylic acids may also contain, to a lesser extent, tri- and polyfunctional carboxylic acids. The functionality of the mixture must not exceed an average molar value of 2.4.

[0041] Preferred dimeric acids are typically derived from triglycerides rich in Cl8 ester groups, which can be hydrolyzed to produce C18 unsaturated mono-fatty acids. Raw materials can be derived from tallow oil and rapeseed oil, but other natural sources such as flaxseed, soybeans, pumpkin seeds, and walnuts can be used. The target mono-acids used in the reaction are rich in the forms of oleic and linoleic acids described in the fatty acid list below. Dimerization leads primarily to the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids, but trimers are also formed. After the reaction, the product can be stored as a mixture of reaction products or it can be further distilled or otherwise separated into molecular weight fractions.In one embodiment, the dimerization reaction produces a majority (at least 60% by weight, more preferably at least 75% by weight) of dimeric acid (C36 diacid) but also produces C54 trimer acids (less than 30% by weight, more preferably less than 25% by weight).

[0042] In one case, a standard dimeric acid commercially available from Croda, Pripol 1025®, is used, which contains 72% by weight of dimer and 19% by weight of trimer acid.

[0043] In another case, a standard hydrogenated dimeric acid from Oleon, Radiacid 0960®, is used, which contains 87% by weight of dimer and 10% by weight of trimer acid. In both cases, the polymer as described is characterized by a higher molecular weight, greater hydrophobicity, and higher viscosity than that which can be provided by pure diacids of lower molecular weight. The presence of a trimer acid further improves the molecular weight and performance of these polymers.

[0044] In one embodiment, the copolymer of the present invention is prepared from at least one hydrogenated dimeric acid.

[0045] In another embodiment, the polymer is prepared from a hydrogenated dimeric acid comprising hydrogenated dimerized C18 fatty acids, which hydrogenated dimeric acid is obtained by dimerization of unsaturated Cl8 fatty acids and subsequent hydrogenation.

[0046] In one embodiment, the hydrogenated dimer acid contains a trimer acid content ranging from about 5 to 25% by weight, based on a total weight of hydrogenated dimer acid.

[0047] In another embodiment, the hydrogenated dimeric acid contains a majority (at least 60% by weight, more preferably at least 75% by weight, but at most 95% by weight, or better yet at most 90% by weight, or even better at most 85% by weight) of hydrogenated dimeric acid (C36 diacid) and also contains hydrogenated C54 trimer acids (less than 30% by weight, more preferably less than 25% by weight, but more than 5% by weight, more preferably more than 10% by weight). Fatty acid monoacid

[0048] C8-C30 mono-fatty acids can include natural or refined fatty acids, such as hydrolyzed rapeseed oil, sunflower oils, etc., but these contain both lower and higher molecular weight chains. Useful mono-fatty acids can be linear, branched, saturated, unsaturated, and aromatic, with acidity provided by carboxylic acid fractions.

[0049] Acids suitable for the invention include caprylic acid (C8), pelargonic acid (C9), capric acid (C10), undecylic acid (C11), lauric acid (C12), tridecylic acid (C13), myristic acid (C14), pentadecylic acid (C15), palmitic acid (C16), margaric acid (C17), stearic acid (C18), isostearic acid (C18), nonadecyl acid (C19), arachidic acid (C20), behenic acid (C22) and lignoceric acid (C24).

[0050] Comparison of stearic and isostearic acids shows that branching leads to a high melting point and results in low viscosity at room temperature for isostearic acid, compared to a solid material for stearic acid. This lower viscosity can be useful in handling raw materials and also to allow esters made with this acid to retain their liquid properties. Branched-chain fatty acids often contain a single methyl branch along the linear carbon chain and are produced in the nature by microbial action. Isotearic acid is available as a reaction by-product in the creation of the dimeric acid described above.

[0051] Another way to obtain a liquid product is to use linear and branched unsaturated fatty acids. These unsaturated acids may include palmitoleic acid (C16:l), vaccenic acid (C18:l), oleic acid (C18:l), elaidic acid (C18:l), linoleic acid (C18:2), linolelaidic acid (C18:2), α-linolenic acid (C18:3), α-linolenic acid (C18:3), stearidonic acid (C18:4), paullinic acid (C20:l), gondolic acid (C20:l), dihomo-α-linolenic acid (C20:3), mead acid (C20:3), arachidonic acid (C20:4), eicosapentaenoic acid (C20:5), erucic acid (C22:l), docosatetraenoic acid (C22:4), cervonic acid (C22:6), and nervonic acid (C24:1). As is well known to those skilled in the art, the designation means that the carbon chain is X carbon atoms long; and there are Y double bonds in the chain.

[0052] In one embodiment, isostearic acid will be preferred.

[0053] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the polyester of the invention is a substantially or totally non-sequential reaction product of the following components: (i) at least one polyglycerol-3 in mixture form comprising at least 25% by weight of diglycerol, at least 45% by weight of triglycerol and at least 10% by weight of tetraglycerol, relative to the total weight of polyglycerol-3 in mixture form; (ii) at least one hydrogenated dimeric acid containing at least 60% by weight of hydrogenated C36 diacid and 5 to 25% by weight of hydrogenated C54 triacid, in each case relative to the total weight of hydrogenated acid; and (iii) isostearic acid.

[0054] In one embodiment, the polyester is prepared by a one-step process which involves introducing all the reactants into a reaction vessel and then inducing a fully statistical addition of the dimer acid and isostearic acid to polyglycerol-3.

[0055] In one embodiment, it is preferable to have a total degree of esterification of the available polyglycerol hydroxyl fragments (total esterification) of 24% to 74% and a degree of esterification of the available polyglycerol hydroxyl fragments by a dimer acid alone (esterification with a dimer acid) of 20% to 40%. Most importantly, the degree of esterification by the end-cap units (esterification with a monoacid) is also defined in this description, and it is important to maintain the esterification with a monoacid of 4% to 40%.

[0056] 11 It is preferable to have a total esterification of 28% to 57% with an esterification with a dimeric acid of 20% to 30% and an esterification with a monoacid between 8% and 27%.

[0057] It is even more preferable to have a total esterification of 33% to 48% with an esterification with a dimeric acid of 20% to 28% and an esterification with a monoacid between 13% and 20%.

[0058] It is even more preferable to have a total esterification of 24% to 74% with an esterification with a hydrogenated dimeric acid of 20% to 40% and an esterification with a monoacid between 4% and 40%.

[0059] It is even more preferable to have a total esterification of 28% to 57% with an esterification with a hydrogenated dimeric acid of 20% to 30% and an esterification with a monoacid between 8% and 27%.

[0060] It is also even more preferable to have a total esterification of about 40% with an esterification with a hydrogenated dimeric acid of about 20% and an esterification with a monoacid of about 20%.

[0061] It is also even more preferable to have also most preferred a total esterification of about 40% with an esterification with a hydrogenated dimeric acid of about 27% and an esterification with a monoacid of about 13%.

[0062] In one embodiment, the components to be reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and 0.2 to 1.7 mole of fatty acid.

[0063] In another embodiment, the components to be reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.75 mole of dimer acid and 0.4 to 1.35 mole of isostearic acid.

[0064] In another embodiment, the components to be reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.7 mole of dimer acid and 0.65 to 1 mole of isostearic acid.

[0065] In another embodiment, the components to be reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.2 to 1.7 mole of isostearic acid.

[0066] In another embodiment, the components to be reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.75 mole of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.4 to 1.35 mole of isostearic acid.

[0067] In another embodiment, the components to be reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.7 mole of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.65 to 1 mole of isostearic acid.

[0068] In another embodiment, the components to be reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.2 to 1.7 mole of isostearic acid.

[0069] In another embodiment, the components to be reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.75 mole of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.4 to 1.35 mole of isostearic acid.

[0070] In another embodiment, the components to be reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.7 mole of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.65 to 1 mole of isostearic acid.

[0071] In another embodiment, the components to be reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.67 mole of hydrogenated C36 dimer acid and 0.67 mole of isostearic acid.

[0072] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the components to be reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 mole of hydrogenated C36 dimer acid and 1 mole of isostearic acid.

[0073] By adjusting the molar ratio of fatty acid termination and balancing the amount of polyglycerol-3 and dimer acid, it is also possible to control the degree of dimer-polyglycerol extension and termination so that crosslinking, for example, via the acid trimer, leads to much higher viscosities.

[0074] The target viscosity of the pure polymer must be > 50,000 mPa.s and less than 5,000,000 mPa.s at 25 °C.

[0075] In a preferred embodiment, the target viscosity is > 75,000 mPa.s and < 2,500,000 mPa.s at 25°C.

[0076] In another preferred embodiment, the target viscosity is > 100,000 mPa.s and < 2,000,000 mPa.s at 25°C.

[0077] In a preferred embodiment of all, the target viscosity is > 1,000,000 mPa.s and < 2,000,000 mPa.s at 25°C.

[0078] Viscosity is measured using an MCR3O2® rheometer from Anton Paar Inc. Twin flat plates, either rough or smooth, 50 mm in diameter, were used, coated with a polymer sample, fitted with a gap of 0.5 to 1 mm, and temperature and shear rate scans were performed. The polyesters of the invention exhibit Newtonian behavior and therefore have a constant viscosity over a wide range of shear rates. Furthermore, the polymers described have demonstrated a viscosity that decreases with temperature. Thus, the viscosity measurements are reported at a precisely controlled temperature and generally in the form of a shear rate of 1. The values ​​are reported in mPa·s.

[0079] The polyesters of the invention are characterized by average molecular masses by weight > 2500 Da and < 1,000,000 Da measured by GPC using linear polystyrene standards.

[0080] The GPC column used for these tests consisted of: Phenolgel, 300 x 4.6 mm; a continuous phase of Tetrahydrofuran (THF) was used and injected at 0.35 ml / min, column oven maintained at 40°C; a 50 pL injection and a Wyatt Ri refractive index detector. The calibration standards used were strictly linear polystyrene intended for monodisperse application. The narrow-range polystyrene GPC calibration standards were prepared in mobile phase and had maximum molecular weights of 1,290,000 Da; 560,000 Da; 65,500 Da; 28,500 Da; 10,100 Da; 1,680 Da; 580 Da and 208 Da. Using standard methodologies, the average molecular mass by weight and number is automatically calculated by standard GPC software.

[0081] In a preferred embodiment, the described polyesters have a weight-average molecular weight > 4,000 Da and < 250,000 Da measured by GPC using linear polystyrene standards. In a preferred embodiment of all, the described polymers have a weight-average molecular weight > 5,000 Da and < 150,000 Da measured by GPC using linear polystyrene standards.

[0082] In yet another embodiment, the polyester of the invention has a combination of average molecular mass by weight > 5000 Da and < 150,000 Da measured by GPC using linear polystyrene standards and viscosity at 25°C > 100,000 mPa.s and < 2,000,000 mPa.s.

[0083] In a preferred embodiment, the polyester of the invention is a substantially or completely non-sequential reaction product of the following components: (i) at least one polyglycerol-3 comprising at least 25 wt% diglycerol, at least 45 wt% triglycerol and at least 10 wt% tetraglycerol, in each case relative to the total weight of polyglycerol-3 in mixture form; (ii) at least one hydrogenated dimeric acid containing at least 60 wt% hydrogenated C36 diacid and 5 to 25 wt% hydrogenated C54 triacid, in each case relative to the total weight of hydrogenated acid; and (iii) isostearic acid; in which the polymer exhibits a combination of weight average molecular weight > 5,000 Da and < 15,000 Da measured with GPC using linear polystyrene standards and pure polymer viscosity > 100,000 mPa.s and < 2,000,000 mPa.at 25°C; and wherein the copolymer is also characterized by a total esterification of about 40%, an esterification with a hydrogenated dimeric acid of about 27% and an esterification with a monoacid of about 13%.

[0084] In practice, since the raw ingredients contain a range of polyglycerol units and a range of dimer and trimer acid contents, the above numbers can be adjusted using the actual (not theoretical) hydroxyl and carboxylic acid fractions as determined by methods such as mass spectrometry, NMR, and liquid chromatography. The esterification ranges above are based on the ideal structure of polyglycerol-3 and the C36 dimer acid. The actual ranges may therefore differ slightly from the values ​​given above and can be calculated based on these analytical values.

[0085] It is more practical to define the extent of polymerization by the final acid value. The initial acid values, in light of the distribution of the polyglycerol, monoacid, and polyacid fractions present, can be reliably calculated using the actual acid value determined by the crude ingredient used.

[0086] For example, the initial total acid number ("AV," which is commonly defined as mg of KOH / g of total reagent) is 135 AV. This includes 68 AV for the dimer acid and 67 AV for the isostearic acid for a preferred embodiment containing 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 mole of hydrogenated C36 dimer acid, and 1 mole of isostearic acid. All preferred ratio embodiments described above have a corresponding initial AV that can be calculated. When, during the polymerization reaction, the AV units are reduced, this ratio gives the percentage conversion of the reaction from the total initial reactive acid fractions to the final residual acid fractions.

[0087] Thus, the completion rate of the reaction is defined by (1 - final AV) / initial AV.

[0088] In one embodiment, the polyesters of the invention have final acid indices of 0.1 to < 25 mg KOH / g of polymer.

[0089] In a preferred embodiment, the polyesters of the invention have final acid indices of 0.1 to < 10 mg KOH / g of polymer.

[0090] In a preferred embodiment, the polyesters of the invention have final acid indices of 0.1 to < 5 mg KOH / g of polymer.

[0091] Since the completion rate of the reaction is defined by equation 1- final AV / initial AV, the completion rate of the reaction of such mixtures in the final polymer is > 80%.

[0092] In a preferred embodiment, the completion rate of the reaction of such mixtures into the final polymer is > 90%.

[0093] In a preferred embodiment, the completion rate of the reaction of such mixtures into the final polymer is > 95%.

[0094] In a preferred embodiment, the polyester of the invention is a reaction product of polyglycerol-3, a C36 hydrogenated dimeric acid and acid isostearic in a molar ratio of 1 / 0.5 / 1 as described in Example 10 (copolymer) of US document 2021 / 0259945;

[0095] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one oily solution comprising: a) at least one polyester which is the reaction product of the following components (i), (ii) and (iii): (i) at least one polyglycerol-3; (ii) at least one dimeric acid; and (iii) at least one mono-fatty acid having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the components (i), (ii) and (iii) reacted being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol, 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and from 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of fatty acids; and (b) at least one non-volatile oil.

[0096] Said non-volatile oil or oils may be chosen from those which will be described later.

[0097] According to an advantageous embodiment, the oily solution comprises, as non-volatile oil(s), at least one fatty acid triglyceride containing 4 to 24 carbon atoms, and more particularly a caprylic / capric acid triglyceride (INCI name: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride).

[0098] The polyester oil solution can be obtained by mixing the polyester with the oil or non-volatile oils at approximately 80-100°C. The mixture is then further cooled to 50-70°C before being removed from the reactor and stored.

[0099] Said polyester oil solution preferably contains polyester at a concentration of 10 to 99% by weight, more preferably 30 to 90% by weight, more particularly 50 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture.

[0100] According to a preferred embodiment, the oily solution comprises 40% by weight of caprylic / capric acid triglyceride and 60% by weight of polyglycerol-3 polyester, C36 hydrogenated dimer acid and isostearic acid relative to the total weight of the oily solution in a molar ratio of 1 / 0.5 / 1 as described in Example 10 (copolymer) and Example 28 (oily mixture) of US document 2021 / 0259945.

[0101] According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises an oily solution comprising: a) a polyester obtained by reaction (i) of a polyglycerol-3, and (ii) of a C36 hydrogenated acid dimer; and (iii) isostearic acid; components (i), (ii) and (iii) reacted being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of isostearic acid; and b) a caprylic / capric acid triglyceride.

[0102] Such a mixture has the INCI name: Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate (and) Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride.

[0103] Such an oily solution is marketed under the name Solamaze Natural® by the company Nouryon comprising 60% by weight of polyester active matter and 40% by weight of a caprylic / capric acid triglyceride relative to the total weight of the oily solution.

[0104] Polyester may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 3.8 to 30% by weight, preferably ranging from 3.8 to 20% by weight, and preferably ranging from 3.8 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. AMORPHOUS HYDROCARBON SEQUENCE COPOLYMER

[0105] The composition according to the invention comprises an amorphous hydrocarbon sequenced copolymer, also called an amorphous hydrocarbon block copolymer, preferably a sequenced copolymer that is soluble or dispersible in an oily phase.

[0106] The sequenced hydrocarbon copolymer may be, in particular, a diblock, triblock, multiblock, radial, star copolymer, or mixtures thereof.

[0107] Such sequenced hydrocarbon copolymers are described in US-A-2002 / 005562 and US-A-5,221,534 patent.

[0108] The copolymer may have at least one block whose glass transition temperature is preferably less than 20 °C, preferably less than or equal to 0 °C, preferably less than or equal to -20 °C, and preferably even less than or equal to -40 °C. The glass transition temperature of said block may be between -150 °C and 20 °C, in particular between 100 °C and 0 °C.

[0109] The hydrocarbon sequence copolymer present in the composition according to the invention is preferably an amorphous copolymer formed by polymerization of an olefin. The olefin may, in particular, be an ethylenically unsaturated monomer.

[0110] As an example of an olefin, one can cite the monomers of ethylenic carbide, having in particular one or two ethylenic unsaturations, having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethylene, propylene, butadiene, isoprene, or pentadiene.

[0111] Advantageously, the hydrocarbon sequence copolymer is an amorphous sequence copolymer of styrene and olefin.

[0112] Preferred in particular are sequenced copolymers comprising at least one styrene block and at least one block comprising motifs selected from butadiene, ethylene, propylene, butylene, isoprene or a mixture thereof.

[0113] According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrocarbon sequenced copolymer is hydrogenated to reduce residual ethylenic unsaturations after polymerization of the monomers.

[0114] In particular, the hydrocarbon sequenced copolymer is a copolymer, possibly hydrogenated, with styrene blocks and ethylene / alkylene blocks in C3-C4.

[0115] Examples of diblock copolymers, preferably hydrogenated, include styrene-ethylene / propylene copolymers, styrene-ethylene / butadiene copolymers, and styrene-ethylene / butylene copolymers. Diblock polymers are notably sold under the name Kraton® G1701E by Kraton Polymers.

[0116] Examples of triblock copolymers, preferably hydrogenated, include styrene-ethylene / propylene-styrene copolymers, styrene-ethylene / butadiene-styrene copolymers, styrene-ethylene / butylene-styrene copolymers, styrene-isoprene-styrene copolymers, and styrene-butadiene-styrene copolymers. Triblock polymers are notably sold under the names Kraton® G1650, Kraton® G1652, Kraton® DI 101, Kraton® DI 102, and Kraton® DI 160 by Kraton Polymers.

[0117] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the hydrocarbon sequenced copolymer is a styrene-ethylene / butylene-styrene triblock copolymer.

[0118] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, a mixture of a styrene-butylene / ethylene-styrene triblock copolymer and a styrene-ethylene / butylene diblock copolymer can be used, in particular those sold under the name Kraton® G1657M by Kraton Polymers.

[0119] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the hydrogenated sequenced copolymer is a hydrogenated styrene-ethylene / butylene triblock copolymer of INCI name: HYDROGENATED STYRENE-BUTADIENE COPOLYMER like the commercial product ELLAMERA® TER-SET 503 sold by KRATON POLYMERS.

[0120] The amorphous hydrocarbon sequenced copolymer may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.2% to 1% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.3% to 0.8% by weight, and preferably ranging from 0.4% to 0.7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. VOLATILE SOLVENT

[0121] The composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise a volatile solvent, in particular a volatile oil, and preferably a volatile alkane.

[0122] By "volatile solvent" is meant a solvent that is liquid at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, and that has a vapor pressure, at 20-25°C, ranging from 0.13 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.001 to 100 mm Hg), and preferably ranging from 0.5 Pa to 2,000 Pa (0.004 to 15 mm Hg). The vapor pressure can be measured, for example, by the static method or by effusion using isothermal thermogravimetry, as a function of the vapor pressure (OECD Standard 104).

[0123] The volatile alkane can be selected from linear volatile alkanes comprising 8 to 14 carbon atoms and C8-C16 branched alkanes.

[0124] Examples of linear alkanes, particularly C8-C14, include n-octane (C8), n-nonane (C9), n-decane (C10), n-undecane (C11), n-dodecane (C12), n-tridecane (C13), and mixtures thereof. Notable examples include n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14), sold by Sasol under the brand names Parafol 12 97® and Parafol 14 97®, respectively, as well as mixtures thereof. In another embodiment, a mixture of n-dodecane and n-tetradecane may be used, and in particular the dodecane / tetradecane mixture marketed by Biosynthis under the brand name Vegelight 1214®. According to yet another embodiment, a mixture of volatile linear alkanes in C9-C12 with INCI name C9-12 Alkane can also be used, such as the product marketed by the company Biosynthis under the reference Vegelight SILK® 100.According to yet another embodiment, a mixture of n-undecane (Cl 1) and n-tridecane (Cl3) can be used, such as those obtained in examples 1 and 2 of application WO2008 / 155059 from Cognis and such as that sold under the trade name Cetiol Ultimate® by BASF.

[0125] We can also mention the alkanes described in Cognis patent applications WO 2007 / 068371, or WO2008 / 155059 (mixtures of distinct alkanes differing by at least one carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, themselves obtained from coconut or palm oil.

[0126] As C8-C16 branched alkanes, we can cite in particular as C8-C16 petroleum isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopar® or Permetyl®.

[0127] Preferably, the volatile alkane is chosen from isododecane, the mixture of linear C9-C12 alkanes and the mixture of n-undecane and n-tridecane.

[0128] The volatile alkane may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.5% to 70% by weight, preferably ranging from 10% to 65% by weight, and preferably ranging from 15% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0129] The composition according to the invention may include a non-volatile oil, in particular selected from hydrocarbon or silicone non-volatile oils.

[0130] The term "non-volatile oil" means an oil whose vapor pressure at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 2.66 Pa, more particularly less than 0.13 Pa.

[0131] By "hydrocarbon oil" is classically meant an oil formed essentially, or even composed, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly of oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing any atoms of silicon or fluorine. Hydrocarbon oil is therefore distinct from silicone oil and fluorine oil. Advantageously, the hydrocarbon oils according to the invention contain only carbon, hydrogen, oxygen, and optionally nitrogen atoms.

[0132] For the purposes of this invention, "siliconized oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0133] According to one variant, the composition comprises at least one non-volatile oil (iii) selected from non-polar hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, polar hydrocarbon oils other than liquid polyesters obtained from a mono- or polyunsaturated fatty acid dimer, the fatty acid comprising 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof. NON-VOLATILE OIL Non-volatile, non-polar hydrocarbon oils

[0134] According to one embodiment, the composition may contain a non-volatile oil selected from non-volatile, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, non-polar hydrocarbon oils, and preferably saturated.

[0135] Non-volatile, linear or branched, non-polar hydrocarbon oil(s) are more particularly compounds comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms (in other words, non-volatile hydrocarbon-type oils).

[0136] Said nonpolar, linear or branched oils may be of mineral or synthetic origin and in particular selected from: - paraffin oil, - squalane, - isoeicosane, - mixtures of linear, saturated hydrocarbons, particularly those containing Ci5-C28, especially mixtures with INCI names such as: Ci5_i9 Alkane (INCI name), Ci8-2i Alkane (INCI name), C2i_28 Alkane (INCI name), such as Gemseal 40, Gemseal 60, Gemseal 120 marketed by Total, and Emogreen L19 marketed by Seppic, - Polybutenes, hydrogenated or not, in particular the products in the Indopol range marketed by the company Ineos Oligomers, - Polyisobutenes, hydrogenated or not, in particular the non-volatile compounds of the Parléam® range marketed by the company Nippon Oil Fats, - polydecenes, hydrogenated or not, in particular non-volatile compounds from the Puresyn® range marketed by Exxonmobil, - and their mixtures. Non-volatile silicone oils

[0137] According to one embodiment of the invention, the non-volatile oil is chosen from among phenylated or non-phenylated silicone non-volatile oils.

[0138] More particularly, said silicone oils are devoid of (poly)alkoxylated groups such as (poly)ethoxylated or (poly)propoxylated groups, or of (poly)glycerolated groups.

[0139] For the purposes of this invention, "siliconized oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0140] More particularly, the non-volatile silicone oil, phenylated or non-phenylated, is selected from dimethicones, trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane, tetramethyl tetraphenyl trisiloxane, diphenyl dimethicone, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone, phenyltrimethicone, diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone, and mixtures thereof.

[0141] These products are marketed in particular under the names PH-1555 HRI Cosmetic Fluid (Trimethyl Pentaphenyl Trisiloxane), Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid (Phenyltrimethicone) by Dow Corning, Diphenyl Dimethicone such as the products KF-54, KF54HV, KF-50-300CS, KF-53 d, KF-50-100CS or Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone KF56 A marketed by Shin Etsu, the products Belsil PDM 1000, Belsil PDM 20 marketed by Wacker Chemie (Trimethylsiloxy Phenyl Dimethicone), alone or in mixtures.

[0142] Preferably, the non-volatile oil is selected from non-polar hydrocarbon oils, in particular paraffin oil, squalane, isoeicosane, CI5-19 Alkane (INCI name), CI8-21 Alkane (INCI name), C21-28 Alkane (INCI name), polybutenes, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated, polyisobutenes, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated, polydecenes, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated, and mixtures thereof, and / or from non-phenylated silicone oils selected from dimethicone, phenylated silicones, in particular trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane, tetramethyl tetraphenyl trisiloxane, diphenyl dimethicone, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone, phenyltrimethicone, diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone, and mixtures thereof, and preferably from said non-volatile oils nonpolar hydrocarbons. Polar hydrocarbon non-volatile oils

[0143] According to one variant, the composition comprises at least one non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil selected from vegetable oils, non-hydroxylated ester hydrocarbon oils other than liquid polyesters obtained from a dimer of mono- or polyunsaturated fatty acid, the fatty acid comprising 16 to 22 carbon atoms, hydroxylated ester oils, ether or carbonate oils, alcohol oils, and mixtures thereof. Vegetable oils

[0144] According to one embodiment of the invention, the non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil is chosen from vegetable oils, and their mixtures.

[0145] Examples of vegetable oils may be cited from among jojoba oil, olive oil, coconut oil, ximenia oil, pracaxi oil, coriander seed oil, macadamia oil, passionflower oil, argan oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, avocado oil, rosa canina oil, apricot kernel oil, linseed oil, sweet almond oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, peanut oil, kaya oil, wheat germ oil, corn oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, oil of pumpkin, hazelnut oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, castor oil, lesquerella oil, the liquid fraction of shea butter, and the liquid fraction of cocoa butter and their mixtures.

[0146] Preferably, the vegetable oil is not selected from castor oil and lesquerella oil. More particularly, the vegetable oil is selected from sunflower oil, olive oil, apricot oil, sweet almond oil, argan oil, rapeseed oil, jojoba oil, sesame oil, alone or in mixtures. Non-hydroxylated ester oils

[0147] According to one embodiment, the non-volatile oil is selected from ester oils, comprising 1 to 4 ester functions, comprising in total between 17 and 70 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic.

[0148] More particularly, said esters are selected from monoesters and polyesters, other than the aforementioned liquid polyesters, such as, for example: - monoesters, saturated or unsaturated, of monocarboxylic acid and monoalcohol, in particular Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, benzoate of alcohols in the 2 to 5 range, ethyl 2-hexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, oleyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl-2-dodecyl benzoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols, isopropyl myristate, the isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, - diesters, for example dicarboxylic acid and monoalcohol diesters, preferably diisostearyl malate,or glycol and monocarboxylic acid diesters, such as neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol dioctanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate, , - Tricarboxylic acid and monoalcohol triesters, such as triisostearyl citrate, or tridecyl trimellitate, - total esters of glycerin, diglycerin, pentaerythritol and monocarboxylic acids, for example triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids, capric acid triglyceride alone or in mixtures, such as capric / caprylic acid triglycerides, Ci8_36 acid triglycerides, decyl-2 tetradecanoate triglyceride, pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, polyglycerol-2 tetraisostearate, Pentaerythrityl Isostearate / Caprate / Caprylate / Adipate (INCI name, for example Supermol L products from the Croda company), - as well as their mixtures. Hydroxylated ester oils

[0149] According to one embodiment of the invention, the non-volatile oil is selected from hydroxylated esters, in particular from monoesters and hydroxylated diesters, preferably having a total number of carbons from 20 to 70, such as isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate.

[0150] Examples also include partial esters of glycerin or polyglycerin comprising 2 to 8 glycerol units, such as glycerin stearate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 triisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate, and mixtures thereof. Ether or carbonate oils

[0151] According to one embodiment of the invention, the non-volatile oil (iii) can be selected from ethers of formula ROR', carbonates of formula RO(CO)OR', formulas in which the R, R' groups, identical or not, represent a hydrocarbon group comprising fewer than 16 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, preferably in C3-C16. For example, dicaprylyl ether, dipropyl carbonate, diethylhexyl carbonate, dicaprylyl carbonate, C14-C15 dialkyl carbonate, and mixtures thereof may be mentioned. Fatty alcohol

[0152] According to one embodiment, the non-volatile oil is chosen from C8-C30 alcohols, more particularly mono-alcohols, liquid at room temperature, saturated or unsaturated, including lauric alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecylic alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, undecyl pentadecanol alcohol, octyldodecanol, as well as mixtures of long-chain fatty alcohols, such as mixtures of C3o-C5o alcohols, C20-C40 alcohols and mixtures thereof.

[0153] The non-volatile oil may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.5 to 15% by weight, and preferably ranging from 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0154] The composition may comprise a C2-C4 alcohol such as ethanol, isopropanol, butanol, and preferably ethanol. The C2-C4 alcohol may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 5% to 15% by weight. COLORING MATERIALS

[0155] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention may include a coloring material, in particular chosen from pigments or mother-of-pearls, and mixtures thereof. Mother-of-pearl

[0156] By “mother-of-pearl”, one must understand colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular produced by certain molluscs in their shell or synthesized, and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference.

[0157] The nacres can be selected from pearlescent pigments, such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye, as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They can also consist of mica particles on the surface of which at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic coloring materials are superimposed.

[0158] We can also cite, as an example of nacres, natural mica covered with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigment or bismuth oxychloride.

[0159] Mother-of-pearl may in particular have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or copper colour or reflection.

[0160] Among the mother-of-pearls available on the market, we can mention Timica, Flamenco, Cloisonne, Chromalite and Duochrome mother-of-pearls (on a mica base) marketed by the company Engelhard, Timiron, Colorona, Microna mother-of-pearls, marketed by the company Merck, Prestige mother-of-pearls on a mica base marketed by the company Eckart and Sunshine mother-of-pearls on a synthetic mica base marketed by the company Sun Chemical.

[0161] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the nacres are chosen from those having an average particle size (corresponding to D50 (average diameter, measured by laser granulometry or other equivalent method known to the person skilled in the art) of at least 70 pm, preferably at least 100 pm.

[0162] By way of example, if the composition contains them, such mother-of-pearl may be present in a content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight, in particular from 0.01% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Pigments

[0163] The composition according to the invention may optionally include at least one pigment.

[0164] The term "pigments" means white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in aqueous or oily media, intended to color and / or opacify the composition and / or the resulting deposit. These pigments may be white or colored, mineral and / or organic.

[0165] These pigments can be coated or uncoated mineral pigments.

[0166] Among the mineral pigments useful in the present invention, we can mention zirconium or cerium oxides, titanium oxides, as well as zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, metallic powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder.

[0167] These pigments can also be organic pigments or in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments can be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core covered at least partially with an organic pigment and at least one binder ensuring the fixation of the organic pigments on the core.

[0168] The inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminium borosilicate, and aluminium.

[0169] Advantageously, the pigments may have been subjected to a hydrophobic surface treatment.

[0170] The hydrophobic treatment agent may, for example, be chosen from silicones such as methicones, dimethicones, perfluoroalkylsilanes; fatty acids such as stearic acid; metallic soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate, perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoroalkyl silanes, perfluoroalkyl silazanes, hexafluoropropylene polyoxides, polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups, amino acids; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin, isopropyl trisostearyl titanate, and mixtures thereof.

[0171] N-acylated amino acids may comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, a 2-ethyl hexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, or cocoyl group. Salts of these compounds may be aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, or zinc salts. of sodium, of potassium. The amino acid can be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid, alanine.

[0172] The term alkyl mentioned in the compounds cited above refers in particular to an alkyl group having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably having from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.

[0173] Hydrophobic treated pigments are described in particular in application EP-A-1086683.

[0174] Other products known under the following names may also be mentioned: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green 5 (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 10 (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).

[0175] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the pigment(s) have been subjected to a hydrophobic treatment.

[0176] As an indication, if the composition includes them, the pigment content may range from 0.1 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition. Charge

[0177] The composition according to the invention may optionally include one or more fillers conventionally used in makeup and / or skincare compositions. It should be noted that the fillers are distinct from the colorants.

[0178] These charges are colorless or white, solid particles of all shapes, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition.

[0179] Whether mineral or organic, natural or synthetic, they impart softness, a matte finish, and uniformity to the makeup composition. Furthermore, these fillers effectively combat various aggressions such as sebum and perspiration.

[0180] By way of illustration of these fillers, examples include mica, silica, kaolin, poly-[3-alanine] and polyethylene powders, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders (Teflon®), lauroyl lysine, starch, boron nitride, hollow polymeric microspheres such as polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile microspheres like Expacel® (Nobel Industrie), acrylic acid copolymers, silicone resin microbeads (Tospearls® from Toshiba, for example), elastomeric polyorganosiloxane particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydroxycarbonate, hydroxyapatite, barium sulfate, polyurethane powders, composite fillers, hollow silica microspheres, and glass or ceramic microcapsules. Other materials may also be used particles, which have the shape of portions of hollow spheres, as described in patent applications JP-2003 128 788 and JP-2000 191 789.

[0181] In particular, if the composition includes such fillers, the latter may be present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0182] The composition according to the invention may include common additives such as polyols, waxes, preservatives, perfumes, surfactants, thickeners, and moisturizing agents.

[0183] According to one embodiment, the composition is anhydrous; it contains less than 5% by weight of water, preferably less than 1% by weight, or even contains no water.

[0184] The composition according to the invention may be a makeup composition such as a foundation, an eyeliner, an eyeshadow, a lipstick, a mascara, a body makeup product.

[0185] The composition according to the invention may be a facial or body care composition, or a sun care product.

[0186] The invention is illustrated in more detail in the following examples. Comparative examples 1 to 3#:

[0187] A composition according to the invention (example 1) and two comparative compositions outside the invention (examples 2 and 3) were prepared as follows:

[0188] [Tables 1] Ingredients Example 1 (Invention) Example 2 (Comparative) Example 3 (Comparative) Phase ISODODECANE 36.44 43.94 36.44 A UNDECANE (and) TRIDE CANE (CETIOL ULTIMATE-® BASF) 15.00 15.00 15.00 A C9-12 ALKANE (VEGELIGHT SILK 100-BIOSYNTHIS) 5.00 5.00 5.00 A CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TR IGLYCERIDE (DUB MC T 7030 / MB from STEARIN ERIE DUBOIS) 0.33 5.33 A DIISOSTEAROYL POL YGLYCERYL-3 DIMER 12.50 - 13.33 A DILINOLEATE (60%) (a nd) CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE (40%) (SOLAMAZE NATURA L®-NOURYON) STYRENE-ETHYLENE / BUTYLENE-STYRENE BLOCK COPOLYMER (ELLAMERA TER SET 503 -KRATON POLYM ERS) 0,50 0,50 A DISTEARDIMONIUM HE CTORITE (BENTONE 38 VCG RHE OLOGICAL ADDITIVE® - ELEMENTIS) 6,00 6,00 6,00 B SYNTHETIC FLUORPHL OGOPITE (SYNAFIL S 1050 de chez ECKART) 1,22 1,22 1,22 C TITANIUM DIOXIDE (an d) DISODIUM STEAROY L GLUTAMATE (and) AL UMINUM HYDROXIDE 8,78 8,78 8,78 C IRON OXIDES (and) DIS ODIUM STEAROYL GLU TAMATE (and) ALUMIN UM HYDROXIDE 2,23 2,23 2,23 C ETHANOL 12 12 12 D TOTAL (% Massique) 100 100 100 TOTAL POLYESTER DII SOSTEAROYL POLYGL YCERYL-3 DIMER DILI NOLEATE (%) 7,50 0 8,00 TOTAL STYRENE-ETHY LENE / BUTYLENE-STYR ENE BLOCK COPOLYM ERE (%) 0,50 0,50 0 RATIO Polyester / Copoly mère séquencé 7,5 / 0,5=15,00 0 / 0,5=0 8 / 0=œ Mode opératoire

[0189] In a beaker, equipped with a water bath, the styrenic block sequenced copolymer was solubilized with a mixture of undecane and tridecane, caprylic / capric triglyceride and polyester by heating to 75 °C and stirring under a Rayneri equipped with a deflocculating rod until the sequenced copolymer was completely dissolved (4 hours at 200 rpm).

[0190] We allowed it to return to room temperature and we added the isododecane and the C9-12 alkane under stirring.

[0191] The hectorite was sprinkled while agitated in the deflocculator at 1500 rpm and then left under agitation for 15 minutes.

[0192] The mixture of pigments and synthetic mica was sprinkled on, agitated under a deflocculator, at 2000 rpm and then left under agitation for 15 minutes.

[0193] The temperature of the bulk was checked: If the temperature increases, the beaker was placed in a cold water bath.

[0194] Finally, ethanol at room temperature (below 30°C) was added under deflocculating agitation at 1000 rpm. The mixture was left under agitation for another 5 minutes and then packaged. In vitro non-transfer assessment test

[0195] Each composition was applied to an Erichsen contrast card, using a spreader, in a deposit with a thickness of 50 µm, over a width of at least 6 cm, and left to dry on a hot plate for 40 minutes at 32°C.

[0196] Two strips of WyPall© 05701 7471 L40 (Kimberley Clark) 2 cm wide and 3 cm long were deposited on the deposit without overlapping:

[0197] - the first strip is dry,

[0198] - the second strip is soaked in olive oil (0.1 ml)

[0199] A film puller weighted with a 2 kg weight was placed on top of all the strips, and the assembly was moved along the film. Finally, the state of the transfer was observed after the strips had passed over it.

[0200] The following notation was made on the color transfer:

[0201] [Tables2] Note: Surface area of ​​the fabric in contact with the deposit: 5 Very intense coloration, very significant to total color transfer. 4 Intense coloration, significant color transfer. 3 Medium coloration, average color transfer. 2 Slight coloration, little color transfer. 1 No coloration or barely visible coloration, little to no color transfer.

[0202] The following results were obtained:

[0203] [Tables3] Observations Example 1 (Invention) Example 2 (Comparative) Example 3 (Comparative) Coloration of the dry product = 1 Dry product = 3 Dry product = 3 Oil product = 1 Oil product = 3 Oil product = 2

[0204] These results show that the composition of example 1 containing polyester and the sequenced copolymer confers a lower transfer than that obtained with the composition of example 2 containing the sequenced copolymer and with the composition of example 3 containing polyester.

[0205] The composition of example 1 therefore makes it possible to reduce the content of sequenced copolymer to 0.50% without losing color transfer performance.

[0206] Comparative examples 4 and 5:

[0207] A composition according to the invention (example 4) and a comparative composition outside the invention (example 5) were prepared, similar to that of example 1 by modifying the weight ratio of polyester / sequenced copolymer.

[0208] [Tables4] Ingredients Example 1 (Invention) Example 4 (Invention) Example 5 (Comparative) Phase ISODODECANE 36.44 36.44 36.44 A UNDECANE (and) TRIDECA NE 15.00 15.00 15.00 A (CETIOL ULTIMATE® - BA S F) C9-12 ALKANE (VEGELIGHT SILK 100-BIO SYNTHIS) 5,00 5,00 5,00 A CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGL YCERIDE (DUB MCT 7030 / MB de STEARINERIE DUBO IS) 0,33 2,66 3,33 A DIISOSTEAROYL POLYGL YCERYL-3 DIMER DILINOL EATE (60%) (and) CAPRYLI C / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE (40%) (SOLAMAZE NATURAL®-N OURYON) 12,50 6,67 5,00 A STYRENE-ETHYLENE / BUT YLENE-SYYRENE BLOCK COPOLYMER (ELLAMERA TER SET 503-KRATON POLYMERS) 0,50 0,50 0,50 A DISTEARDIMONIUM HECT ORITE (BENTONE 38 VCG RHEOL OGICAL ADDITIVE® - ELE MENTIS) 6,00 6,00 6,00 B SYNTHETIC FLUORPHLOG OPITE (SYNAFIL S 1050 de chez EC KART) 1,22 1,22 1,22 C TITANIUM DIOXIDE (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL GL UTAMATE (and) ALUMINU M HYDROXIDE 8,78 8,78 8,78 C IRON OXIDES (and) DISODI UM STEAROYL GLUTAMA 2,23 2,23 2,23 C TE (and) ALUMINUM HYDR OXIDE ETHANOL 12.00 12.00 12.00 D TOTAL (% by mass) 100 100 100 TOTAL POLYESTER DIISO STEAROYL POLYGLYCER YL-3 DIMER DILINOLEATE (%) 7.50 4.00 3.00 TOTAL STYRENE-ETHYL NE / BUYLENE-STYRENE B LOCK COPOLYMER (%) 0.50 0.50 0.50 RATIO Polyester / Block copolymer 7.5 / 0.5=15 4 / 0.5=8.00 3 / 0.5=6.00

[0209] The non-transfer properties were evaluated. The following results were obtained:

[0210] [Tables5] Observations Example 1 (Invention) Example 4 (Invention) Example 5 (Comparative) Staining of Dry fabric = 1 Dry fabric = 2 Dry fabric = 3 Oil fabric = 1 Oil fabric = 1 Oil fabric = 3

[0211] These results show that the compositions of examples 1 and 4 confer a lower transfer than that of example 5.

[0212] Thus the weight ratio between the polyester and the sequenced copolymer must be greater than 6.5 to obtain the good non-transfer properties.

Claims

Demands

1. Composition comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium, a) a polyester which is the reaction product of the following components (i), (ii) and (iii): (i) at least one polyglycerol-3, (ii) at least one dimer acid, and (iii) at least one mono-fatty acid having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the reacting components (i), (ii) and (iii) being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, from 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and from 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of mono-fatty acid, b) from 0.2% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition of an amorphous hydrocarbon sequenced copolymer, said polyester and said sequenced copolymer being present in a weight ratio polyester / sequenced copolymer greater than 6.5 and less than or equal to 150.

2. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the polyester is a substantially or totally non-sequential reaction product.

3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyester is prepared by a one-step process which involves introducing all the reactants into a reaction vessel and then inducing a fully statistical addition of the dimeric acid and isostearic acid to polyglycerol-3.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that polyglycerol-3 is triglycerol or a mixture of polyglycerols comprising at least triglycerol; said polyglycerols corresponding to the formula (I) H[-O-Gly]n-OH, in which each Gly is independently the residue of a glycerol molecule after the removal of two hydroxyl groups; and n is an average of 2 to 10.

5. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that polyglycerol-3 is in the form of a mixture and composed of at least 40% by weight, or at least 45% by weight, or at least 50% by weight, of a combination of diglycerol and triglycerol relative to the total weight of polyglycerol-3 in mixture form.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that polyglycerol-3 is in mixture form and composed of at least 20% by weight, or at least 25% by weight of diglycerol; at least 15% by weight, or at least 18% by weight of triglycerol; at least 10% by weight, or at least 12% by weight of tetraglycerol relative to the total weight of polyglycerol-3 in mixture form.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that polyglycerol-3 is in mixture form and comprises at least 25% by weight of diglycerol, at least 45% by weight of triglycerol and at least 10% by weight of tetraglycerol to the total weight of polyglycerol-3 in mixture form.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyester is a substantially or totally non-sequential reaction product of the following components: (i) at least one polyglycerol-3 in mixture form comprising at least 25 wt% diglycerol, at least 45 wt% triglycerol and at least 10 wt% tetraglycerol, in each case relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in mixture form; (ii) at least one hydrogenated dimeric acid containing at least 60 wt% hydrogenated C36 diacid and 5 to 25 wt% hydrogenated C54 triacid, in each case relative to the total weight of the hydrogenated acid; and (iii) isostearic acid.

9. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyester is in an oily solution comprising: a) a polyester obtained by reacting: (i) Polyglycerol-3, and (ii) a C36 hydrogenated acid dimer; and (iii) isostearic acid; the reacting components (i), (ii), and (iii) being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid, and 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of fatty acids; and b) a caprylic / capric acid triglyceride; said mixture having more particularly the INCI name: Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate (and) Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride.

10. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the oily solution contains polyester at a concentration of 10 to 99% by weight, more preferably 30 to 90% by weight, more particularly 50 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture.

11. Composition according to any one of claims 13 or 14, characterized in that the oily solution comprises 40% by weight of caprylic / capric acid triglyceride and 60% by weight of Polyglycerol-3 polyester, C36 hydrogenated dimeric acid and isostearic acid in a molar ratio of 1 / 0.5 / 1.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyester content represents from 1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 5 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amorphous hydrocarbon sequenced copolymer comprises an amorphous copolymer formed by polymerization of an olefin.

14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amorphous hydrocarbon sequenced copolymer comprises an amorphous block copolymer of styrene and olefin.

15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amorphous hydrocarbon sequenced copolymer comprises a copolymer, optionally hydrogenated, with styrene blocks and C3-C4 ethylene / alkylene blocks.

16. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, characterized in that the amorphous hydrocarbon sequenced copolymer comprises a styrene-ethylene / butylene-styrene triblock copolymer.

17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amorphous hydrocarbon sequenced copolymer is present in a content ranging from 0.3% to 0.8% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.4% to 0.7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a volatile solvent, preferably a volatile alkane.

19. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that it comprises a volatile alkane is selected from linear volatile alkanes comprising 8 to 14 carbon atoms and C8-C16 branched alkanes and preferably selected from isododecane, the mixture of linear C9-C12 alkanes and the mixture of n-undecane and n-tridecane.

20. Composition according to any one of claims 21 or 22, characterized in that the volatile alkane is present in a content ranging from 0.5% to 70% by weight, preferably ranging from 10% to 65% by weight, and preferably ranging from 15% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

21. A method for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising the application to said keratinous materials of a composition according to any one of the preceding claims.