DRY COMPOSITION CAPABLE OF BEING PRESSED AND EMULSIFIED, AND ITS USES

Abstract

The present invention relates to a dry composition capable of being pressed, comprising: - at least one powdered polyol, - at least one powdered gelling agent having flow properties corresponding to a Carr index less than or equal to 25 and a Hausner ratio less than or equal to 1.34, - a combination of an ester and Acacia Senegal Gum, - optionally, at least one surfactant, - optionally, at least one internal lubricant, - optionally, at least one preservative, - optionally, at least one buffering and pH regulating agent, - optionally, at least one fragrance, - optionally, at least one disintegrating agent, said composition in the form of a pressable powder having flow properties corresponding to a Carr index less than or equal to 25 and a Hausner ratio less than or equal to 1.34.The present invention also relates to a solid product obtained by pressing the dry composition, to a cosmetic composition, as well as to their preparation process and their use.

Description

Title of the invention: DRY COMPOSITION CAPABLE OF BEING PRESSED AND EMULSIONIZED, AND ITS USES technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a dry composition capable of being pressed and emulsified, to a process for preparing a cosmetic composition, as well as to the cosmetic composition and its use.

[0002] The present invention finds applications particularly in the field of cosmetics, especially in hygiene and care of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or hair.

[0003] In the description below, references in brackets ([ ]) refer to the list of references presented at the end of the text. State of the art

[0004] Cosmetic care products are products used daily, or even twice daily, because they are part of a beauty routine to preserve or improve the aesthetics of the skin, especially the face.

[0005] Skincare products are generally packaged in jars or bottles, possibly with a pump, or in other containers. They are usually in the form of milk, lotion, cream, or micellar water. Apart from oil, these products contain a significant amount of water.

[0006] However, environmental concerns are becoming increasingly important in the cosmetics industry. Therefore, for ecological reasons, efforts are currently underway to reduce the amount of water in these types of cosmetic products, both to decrease the amount of water transported and to reduce the amount of packaging.

[0007] Thus, one of the ways to reduce the amount of water in cosmetic products is to formulate them in solid and / or dry form, to be diluted or reconstituted by the consumer at home to obtain the finished product.

[0008] Generally speaking, the limitation of these products lies in their appearance after dilution. Indeed, the texture of the finished product is often different from the texture of an equivalent conventional product. Furthermore, the sensory appeal of the product is often inferior to that of an equivalent conventional product.

[0009] Thus, there remains a strong demand for products in dry form, making it possible to reduce the quantities of single-use plastic and water used during packaging and transport, while retaining the sensory properties of a classic cosmetic product and respecting good eco-design.

[0010] Description of the invention

[0011] The present invention is specifically designed to address these needs and drawbacks of the prior art.

[0012] The inventors of the present product have indeed developed a solid or dry product, for example a powder or a tablet, which emulsifies once reconstituted in a volume of water, without the input of energy and regardless of the quality, i.e., the hardness and pH, of the water, as long as it is potable. Advantageously, the finished product, i.e., the product reconstituted by the addition of water by the consumer, has sensory properties as satisfactory as conventional products (i.e., the products mentioned above, sold directly in bottles or flasks).

[0013] Advantageously, the invention is applicable to all types of galenics, in particular milks, such as cleansing milks, serums, creams, such as shower creams, gels and lotions, thus offering a wide choice of emulsified products.

[0014] In particular, the inventors have succeeded in developing, from a mixture in the form of powders or granules, and after reconstitution with water, a cosmetic composition having a texture that allows it to be spread on the skin. The inventors have also developed, from this mixture of powders or granules, a compact solid form, namely a tablet obtained by pressing the powders and / or granules, sufficiently solid to be transported, while having the same advantages as the powders and granules, namely being soluble in water and therefore able, after reconstitution with water, to be transformed into a cosmetic composition having a texture that allows it to be spread on the skin.

[0015] The galenic formulation developed by the inventors also offers the following advantages: - A formulation, once the final product is reconstituted by adding water, with a texture ranging from lotion or serum to milk or cream when reconstituted by dilution with water, capable of satisfying a wide range of consumers. These formulations will be more or less opaque depending on the fat content, and may even be transparent. - Industrialization facilitated by improved flow of ingredients, particularly in powder or granule form, and reduced stickiness during compaction, - greater respect for the environment by not transporting water to the store, - a reduction in shelf space in stores, - the possibility of being used in two forms: either immediate use by diluting the powder, granules or tablets with the residual water present on the skin at the time of use, or reconstitution of a product for several uses following the dilution of the powder, granules or tablets.

[0016] Thus, a first object of the invention relates to a dry composition capable of being pressed, comprising: - at least one powdered polyol, - at least one powdered gelling agent having flow properties corresponding to a Carr index less than or equal to 25 and a Hausner ratio less than or equal to 1.34, - a combination of an ester and Acacia Senegal Gum, - optionally, at least one surfactant, - optionally, at least one internal lubricant, - optionally, at least one preservative, - optionally, at least one buffering and pH regulating agent, - optionally, at least one fragrance, - optionally, at least one disintegrating agent, said dry composition capable of being pressed having flow properties corresponding to a Carr index less than or equal to 25 and a Hausner ratio less than or equal to 1.34.

[0017] For the purposes of this invention, "dry composition" means an uncompacted composition, that is, a composition before the compaction step, and free of water or containing enough water to allow for compaction. As such, the dry composition may contain between 0 and 5.0% water by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, inclusive. The water percentage by weight may be, for example, between 0 and 4.0%, or between 0 and 3.7%. The water contained in the dry composition may originate from the water contained in the raw materials used in its preparation, or it may be added during the preparation of the dry composition. Regardless of the water percentage of the dry composition, it possesses the flow properties defined above and is therefore distinct from a solid product.Therefore, the dry composition can be in any suitable form, such as powder or granules.

[0018] For the purposes of this invention, "squeezable" means the ability to compact into a solid product after the application of a mechanical compressive force to the dry composition. Advantageously, the dry composition produces little or no sticking to the compression tools. (like punches) during compression, due to the technical characteristics of the dry composition.

[0019] For the purposes of this invention, "polyol" means any organic compound comprising at least one hydroxyl group (-OH), provided that this compound is in powder form. Advantageously, within the scope of the invention, polyols allow the product to be obtained, once the dry composition has been pressed, as a solid, compact product, for example, a tablet, sufficiently solid for transport, while remaining soluble to give the reconstituted product, after the addition of water, a more or less viscous texture ranging from lotion or serum to milk or cream once reconstituted by dilution with water. These may be, for example, polyols of the glycitol class. At least one polyol may be selected, in particular, from erythritol and / or sorbitol. Advantageously, the composition may include erythritol and sorbitol as polyols.Advantageously, the concentration of at least one polyol in the dry composition can be chosen to achieve the aforementioned technical effect, depending on the other components of the composition. In particular, the concentration can be between 10% and 60% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, inclusive, regardless of the type of composition. For example, the concentration can be between 15% and 40%, or between 19% and 40%, or between 30% and 40%, particularly in the case of a cleansing composition; or between 20% and 40%, or between 24% and 40%, particularly in the case of a skincare composition; or between 30% and 55%, or between 35% and 50%, particularly in the case of a hygiene composition.

[0020] For the purposes of this invention, a "surfactant" means any compound that modifies the surface tension between two surfaces. This compound may be in the form of a powder, a liquid, or a solid that can be ground into a powder before being mixed with the other ingredients of the dry composition. It is preferably in powder form. Regardless of its form, the surfactant can be mixed with the other ingredients, namely the polyol and the gelling agent, and optionally any additional ingredients, despite its flow characteristics at the time of mixing. The surfactant may, if necessary, be ground or granulated before mixing to obtain a dry composition exhibiting the aforementioned flow properties, namely a Carr index of 25 or less and a Hausner ratio of 1.34 or less.Advantageously, within the scope of the invention, the surfactant can enable the cleansing of the skin and / or hair by forming micelles, even in the case of waterproof makeup, despite a low concentration of surfactants in the composition of the invention. Thus, the surfactant, while not mandatory in the dry composition of the invention, can nevertheless be present, particularly in the products. Cleansers, such as makeup removers, shower milks and shower creams, and hygiene products, use surfactants. Surfactants are used less frequently in skincare products. At least one surfactant may be chosen from among the sulfonates, such as Sodium lauryl sulfoacetate, Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate, Sodium Laurylglucoside Hydroxypropylsulfonate, Sodium Dodecylbenzenesulfonate, Disodium Lauryl Sulfosuccinate, Sodium C14-17 Alkyl Sec Sulfonate, sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate, cocamidopropyl betaine, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, and sodium cocoyl isethionate. Preferably, at least one surfactant is sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate, alone or in combination with one or more other surfactants.Advantageously, the concentration of at least one surfactant in the dry composition can be chosen to obtain the aforementioned technical effect, depending on the other components of the composition. In particular, the concentration of the surfactant can be between 0.0001 and 45.0% by weight relative to the total weight of said dry composition, especially when the reconstituted cosmetic composition is a rinse-off product, or between 0.0001 and 10%, especially when the reconstituted cosmetic composition is a leave-on product, for example between 0.10 and 9.0%, or between 0.10 and 8.8%, or between 0.20 and 7.0%, or between 0.30 and 5.0%, or between 0.40 and 5.0%.

[0021] For the purposes of this invention, "gelling agent" means any compound that imparts viscosity to a preparation. The gelling agent is in powder form. Advantageously, within the scope of the invention, the flow and compression properties of the gelling agent reduce the stickiness imparted by polyols and surfactants so that the dry composition flows in a manner suitable for industrial production during ingredient mixing, and prevents it from sticking to instruments during compaction. Furthermore, advantageously, the gelling agent can prevent the formula from becoming soapy and is selected to prevent the formula from pilling during application. Advantageously, the concentration of at least one gelling agent in the dry composition can be chosen to achieve the aforementioned technical effect, depending on the other components of the composition.Specifically, the concentration can be between 1 and 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. For example, the concentration can be between 1% and 20%, or between 5% and 10%, particularly in the case of a cleaning product, or between 5% and 20%, or between 7% and 12%, particularly in the case of a skincare product, or between 10% and 25% or 15% and 20%, particularly in the case of hygiene products.

[0022] After mixing the aforementioned ingredients, and optionally the optional ingredients, the dry composition suitable for pressing exhibits flow properties corresponding to a Carr index less than or equal to 25 and a Hausner ratio less than or equal to 1.34. This can be obtained by simply mixing the different ingredients, possibly with optional ingredients, or by passing through one or more granulation steps of all or part of the ingredients, before or after their mixing, separately or together. Thus, the dry composition according to the invention can be in the form of a powder or granules.

[0023] The Carr index, also known as the compressibility index, and the Hausner ratio, also known as the Hausner index, both measure the ability of a powder to reduce in volume under mechanical compaction and are indicators of the relative importance of particle interactions (Ph. Eur. 8.0: 2.9.34) ([1]). The higher these indices, the more cohesive the powders and the poorer the flow. A standard measurement method is described by the European Pharmacopoeia [Ph. Eur. 8.0: 2.9.34] ([1]).

[0024] The Carr index can be measured by any means known to those skilled in the art, for example with a GranuPack® (Granutools) according to the procedure described in the European Pharmacopoeia [Ph. Eur 8.0: 2.9.34] ([1]), or in the thesis of Myriam Vo (Les tablettes, une forme d'avenir? Université de Lorraine, 2015. French ([2])), or in the thesis of Assia Saker (Etude critique de quelques techniques expérimentales d'évaluation de la coulabilité des poudres. Génie des processus. Université de Lorraine, 2018. French. ffNNT: 2018LORR0314ff. fftel-02130382 ([3])) using the following formula: Carr's Index - * 100 inawe ae i,arr - pt ass e e

[0025] The Hausner ratio can be calculated by any means known to those skilled in the art, for example with a GranuPack® (Granutools) according to the procedure described in Assia Saker's thesis ([1]), using the following formula: — ,. « „ past Hausner ratio =

[0026] Thus, the Carr index and the Hausner ratio are parameters commonly used by those skilled in the art to evaluate the flowability of a substance, according to the table below, taken from the thesis of Assia Saker ([3]):

[0027] [Tables 1] Flowability Hausner Ratio Carr Index (%) Excellent, free flow 1.00-1.11 <10 Good 1.12-1.18 11-15 Fair 1.19-1.25 16-20 Passable 1.26-1.34 21-25 Poor, cohesive powder 1.35-1.45 26-31 Very poor 1.46-1.59 32-37 Very poor >1.60 >38

[0028] The at least one gelling agent may, for example, be at least one activated or non-activated starch. "Activated starch" is defined as starch that has undergone an irreversible physicochemical process consisting of the hydrolysis of the starch's intermolecular bonds in the presence of water and heat, allowing the hydrogen bonding sites to bind to water molecules, with the water acting as a plasticizer. Examples include hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, in particular sodium hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, distarch phosphate, sodium carboxymethyl starch, modified potato starch, rice starch such as Oryza sativa, powdered rice syrup or powdered rice flour, or corn starch. Optionally, a secondary gelling agent may be used in addition to the at least one starch.It can be chosen from sclerotium gum, alginic derivatives such as alginic acid, sodium alginate or algin, xanthan gum, gum arabic, sterculia urens gum, chondrus crispus powder (carrageenan), gelane gum, guar gum, konjac such as konjac glucomannan, cellulose derivatives such as ethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose or methylcellulose, cellulose, acacia senegal gum, cyamopsis tetragonoloba gum (guar), tragacanth gum, acacia gum, glucomannan, galactomannan, and mannan.

[0029] For the purposes of this invention, the term "combination of an ester and Acacia Senegal Gum" means any combination that allows for the instantaneous emulsification of a powder into an emulsion without any equipment. The ester may be, for example, tricaprylin, or an ester oil such as isopropyl myristate, cococaprylate caprate, ethylhexyl palmitate, and C8-C10 triglyceride. For example, the concentration of the combination may be between 1 and 89%, or between 10 and 80%, or between 20 and 70%, or between 30 and 60%, particularly for loose powder formulations. Alternatively, the concentration may be between 1 and 60% by weight, particularly in the case of compressed powders.For this purpose, the concentration can be between 20% and 50%, or between 10% and 20%, particularly in the case of cleaning products, or between 20% and 50%, or between 20% and 60%, or 20% and 50%, or 15% and 25%, particularly in the case of skincare products, or between 30% and 55%, or between 10% and 25%, or between 5% and 20%, particularly in the case of hygiene products.

[0030] Advantageously, the ester may be tricaprylin. For example, the combination may be the product "Tricaprylin (and) Acacia Senegal Gum" corresponds to the INCI name, also known by the brand name SOFTISAN® MagicPOWDER S, Marketed by IOI OLEOCHEMICAL, defined by CAS numbers 538-23-8 for Tricaprylin and 9000-01-5 for Acacia Senegal Gum, and comprising approximately 50% by weight of Tricaprylin and approximately 20 to 30% by weight of other ingredients relative to the total product weight. It is a synergistic combination of glycerol and caprylic acid triester with acacia gum. This product is presented as a non-nano powder (i.e., not in nanoparticle form), dust-free, at a concentration ranging from 1 to 89% by weight relative to the total composition weight. The "Tricaprylin (and) Acacia Senegal Gum" product is known to be cold-processable, meaning it allows for the instant emulsification of a powder into an emulsion without any special equipment.However, the inventors are the very first to have succeeded in introducing this product into a product that can be pressed (in other words, compacted), while retaining its self-emulsifying properties within it, thus allowing the emulsification of the pressed product without the input of energy during its reconstitution with water.

[0031] For the purposes of this invention, an "internal lubricant" is any compound that increases the internal sliding of molecules in a mixture over one another. Advantageously, when present, the internal lubricant, by virtue of its combination with the other components and in the indicated proportions, makes it possible to obtain a compact tablet that is sufficiently solid for transport, by facilitating the flow of the powder mixture during compaction and preventing the solid product from sticking to the punches during its formation, while remaining soluble enough to transform into a gel after the addition of water. At least one internal lubricant may be selected from magnesium stearate, aluminum stearate, and zinc stearate.Advantageously, the concentration of at least one internal lubricant in the dry composition can be chosen to achieve the aforementioned technical effect, depending on the other components of the dry composition. In particular, when present, the concentration can be between 0.0001% and 5.0% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, for example between 0.001% and 5.0%, or between 0.01% and 5.0%, or between 0.1% and 5.0%, or between 1.0% and 5.0%, or between 2% and 4.0%.

[0032] Advantageously, at least one buffering and pH-regulating agent, when present, allows the pH of the reconstituted product to be controlled for use and storage for 6 months in the bathroom, at values ​​between 0 and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, for example between 0.1 and 4.5%, or between 0.5 and 4.0%, or between 0.7 and 3.0%. The buffering agent may, for example, be chosen from citric acid and sodium citrate. Advantageously, the concentration of at least one buffering agent in the dry composition may be chosen to obtain the aforementioned technical effect, depending on the other components of the composition. In particular, the concentration can be between 0 and 2% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, for example about 1.0%.

[0033] Advantageously, at least one preservative, when present, increases the microbiological and / or chemical stability of the dry composition and / or the compressed solid product and / or the cosmetic composition once reconstituted. At least one preservative may be selected, for example, from sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate, sorbic acid, and sodium dehydroacetate. For example, the composition may include sodium benzoate and potassium sorbate as preservatives. Advantageously, the concentration of at least one preservative in the dry composition may be selected to achieve the aforementioned technical effect, depending on the other components of the composition. In particular, when present, the concentration may be between 4.2 and 6.0% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, for example, between 4.4 and 6.0%, or between approximately 4.4 and 5.5%.

[0034] Advantageously, the at least one fragrance may be any fragrant material with olfactory characteristics compatible with use in cosmetics, of natural and / or synthetic origin. It can thus impart a pleasant scent to the cosmetic composition once it has been reconstituted. It can also improve the shaping and / or compaction of the dry composition by binding the powders to obtain a solid product and / or prevent the solid product from crumbling. Since the fragrance can be solubilized in a solvent for perfumery raw materials, a granulation step is carried out before or after mixing with the other ingredients. The fragrance may be any fragrance known to those skilled in the art, for example, honey, aloe vera, vanilla, flowers, coconut, exotic fruits, this list being non-exhaustive.Depending on whether or not it is present in the dry composition, the concentration of perfume can be between 0 (not included if perfume is not present) and 7% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, for example between 0.0001 and 5.0%, or between approximately 0.0001 and 2.5%.

[0035] Advantageously, at least one disintegrating agent can be any ingredient that accelerates the reconstitution time of the dry composition in water, compared to the same dry composition without the disintegrating agent. The time saving can be approximately at least 10%, or at least 20%, or at least 30%, or at least 40%, or at least 50%, or at least 60%, compared to the time required for reconstitution of the same dry composition without the disintegrating agent. For example, it could be at least one disintegrating agent chosen from citric acid, a combination of citric acid and monosodium citrate, a combination of citric acid, monosodium citrate, sodium bicarbonate and gum arabic, guar gum, sodium bicarbonate, an association of sodium bicarbonate and acacia gum, croscarmellose sodium, sodium starch glycolate and polyplasdone crospovidone. Depending on whether or not it is present in the dry composition, the concentration of disintegrating agent can be between 0 (not included if the disintegrating agent is not present) and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, for example between 0.0001 and 5.0%, or between 0.3 and 4.5%, or between 0.5 and 4.0%, or between approximately 0.5 and 2.0%.

[0036] Advantageously, the dry composition can be obtained by mixing the different ingredients. As previously stated, the process for preparing this composition may further include one or more granulation steps of all or part of the ingredients, before or after their mixing, separately or together. Particle granulation consists of increasing the size of the particles in order to obtain agglomerates. Traditional reasons for granulating a material include improving flow and storage properties, increasing the intrinsic density of the particles, reducing dust formation, or decreasing material segregation. Thus, the granulation step can allow for better flow of the powders, separately or together. The granulation step can be carried out by any method and means known to those skilled in the art, for example, by means of a granulator.The granulation step(s) take place before or after the compaction step. Thus, the mixture responds favorably to the compression method. Advantageously, the ingredients and their varying concentrations in the dry composition allow for a flow rate suitable for industrial processing, possibly after one or more dry and / or wet granulation steps. The granulation step can be carried out using any method and means known to those skilled in the art, such as those described in Amal TITA-GOLDSTEIN's thesis, "Shaping Powders by Compression: Influence of the Process and Formulation on Controlling In-Use Properties." Thesis, 2013 ([4]). For example, when granulation is performed using powders, it can be carried out using a roller compactor combined with grinding or a tablet press combined with grinding.Alternatively, when granulation is carried out from a powder and liquid mixture, it can be performed using a vertical granulating mixer and drying, a horizontal granulating mixer and drying, a twin-screw extrusion and drying, an oscillating or centrifugal granulator and drying, or a fluidized bed. In the preparation of the dry composition, the granulation step(s) take place before the compaction step.

[0037] Optionally, the composition may include ingredients not mentioned above, in order to improve properties already stated, or to obtain new ones. These may include, for example, bicarbonate and / or citric acid in order to to obtain effervescent properties of the cosmetic composition once it has been reconstituted.

[0038] In a particular embodiment, the dry composition of the invention that can be pressed may comprise: - sorbitol and / or erythritol as a powdered polyol, - an activated starch as a powdered gelling agent, - optionally, sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate as a surfactant, - sodium hydroxypropyl starch phosphate as a powdered gelling agent, - Tricaprylin (and) Acacia Senegal Gum, - optionally, at least one internal lubricant, - optionally, at least one preservative, - optionally, at least one buffer and pH regulator, - optionally, at least one fragrance, - optionally, water, said composition in the form of a pressable powder having flow properties corresponding to a Carr index less than or equal to 25 and a Hausner ratio less than or equal to 1.34.

[0039] A second object of the invention relates to a solid product obtained by pressing (also called compacting or compressing) the dry composition as defined above. Compaction makes it possible to convert a powder or a mixture of powders into a solid tablet by applying pressure. This process can be carried out using various types of presses known to those skilled in the art, for example, rotary or eccentric presses, and according to various techniques known to those skilled in the art, such as direct compression or pre-granulation. The pressure applied to the composition can be achieved by any suitable means, either directly on the composition in powder form or after one or more granulation steps, whether dry or wet granulation. The pressure can be applied by any means known to those skilled in the art, for example, by means of a tablet press.If necessary, a person skilled in the art can adjust the compaction parameters, particularly to prevent release onto the punches during compaction, for example by increasing pre-compression, notably to expel air from the product, and / or by decreasing the total compression. Optionally, a granulation step can be carried out after the compaction step to obtain a solid product in granular form. The shape and size of the solid product can be chosen according to requirements, for example, tablets, granules, beads, or sticks. The thickness and / or circumference of the product can, for example, range from 0.5 cm to 5 cm, and its surface area can, for example, range from 1 cm² to 20 cm². Advantageously, The solid product of the invention may have sufficient hardness or mechanical resistance to prevent breakage during handling or subsequent production steps, or to avoid being too brittle for transport. The hardness of a solid product can be determined by any method known to those skilled in the art, such as measuring the intensity of the force applied diametrically to it to cause its rupture by crushing, or calculating the tensile strength of the product according to the recommendations of the United States Pharmacopeia Convention (USP 1217, May 1, 2012, pp. 868-870 ([5])).Advantageously, the ingredients and their varying concentrations in the dry composition prevent them from sticking to the equipment during compression, thus enabling optimized industrial implementation of the compression process, while also yielding a compact product that is sufficiently robust for transport. Advantageously, the solid product is in tablet form.

[0040] Another object of the invention relates to a method for preparing a cosmetic composition, comprising diluting the solid product or the dry composition as defined above in 1 to 50 times its weight in water, for example, in 10 to 50 times, or in 20 to 40 times. The dilution can be carried out in water, without stirring. Indeed, surprisingly, the cosmetic composition can be reconstituted in less than 24 hours, without stirring, and therefore without the input of energy. In fact, surprisingly, the solid product of the invention is self-emulsifying in the presence of water. Advantageously, this can be done by the consumer by placing the solid product in a container designed for this purpose and adding water at a temperature between approximately 15°C and 50°C directly onto the solid product or the dry composition. The water can be any water suitable for cosmetic, skincare, or personal hygiene use.This could include tap water, purified water, floral water, spring water, thermal water, seawater, or mineral water.

[0041] Another object of the invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising from 1 to 50% by weight of a solid product or a dry composition as defined above, and from 50 to 99% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of said cosmetic composition. Preferably, the water is potable water, regardless of its pH and hardness. The cosmetic composition is a textured composition, namely one that has a texture different from that of water, which may be, as indicated above, a milky, creamy, serum, or gel-like texture, for example, a micellar jelly, a foamy gel texture, a white opaque gel resembling milk, or a syrupy texture like honey. Optionally, the cosmetic composition may to be effervescent if the powder composition contains ingredients that allow effervescence once the cosmetic composition is reconstituted.

[0042] Another object of the invention relates to a cosmetic use of the cosmetic composition as defined above, as a treatment, for example an anti-aging treatment, in particular to reduce the depth of wrinkles, moisturizing, smoothing, toning, brightening, anti-imperfection, mattifying, as a cleansing product or as a hygiene product.

[0043] A skincare product may be, for example, in the form of a serum, milk, or cream. A cleansing product may be, for example, a makeup remover, such as a milk or lotion. A hygiene product may be, for example, a shower milk, a shower cream, a shampoo, or a hair mask.

[0044] In the context of the cosmetic processes according to the invention, or the use according to the invention, use means a non-therapeutic use, for example, for the treatment of healthy skin and hair, that is to say, in particular, scalps not exhibiting a pathological condition, or, if the scalp is in a pathological condition, for strictly aesthetic use, to the exclusion of any therapeutic use. Indeed, the cosmetic and aesthetic use of the invention is not associated with an inevitable therapeutic effect.

[0045] Thus, any cosmetic use and any cosmetic process according to the invention are respectively non-therapeutic cosmetic uses and non-therapeutic cosmetic processes, not intended to treat a pathology.

[0046] Other advantages may also become apparent to a person skilled in the art upon reading the examples below, given by way of illustration.

[0047] EXAMPLES

[0048] Example 1: Examples of cosmetic compositions in the form of a cleansing texture of the makeup remover milk type.

[0049] The powders shown in Tables 2 to 4 are mixed to obtain the composition in powder or granule form. The composition is then optionally compacted to obtain a solid product in tablet form. Finally, water is added to the tablet, or directly to the powder or granules if there has been no compaction, to reconstitute the textured cosmetic composition in the form of a cleansing milk.

[0050] The compaction process is carried out according to the following operating procedure: 1. Powdered food: Powders or granules are introduced into the tablet press matrix, either by gravity or by forced feeding. 2. Primary compaction (pre-compression): Slight pressure is applied to expel trapped air and allow for initial densification. This ensures better uniformity of the final tablet. 3. Main compaction: A higher compressive force is applied between an upper and lower punch to form a solid tablet. During this step, the particles undergo several phenomena: • Elastic deformation: the powder partially returns to its original shape if the pressure is released. • Plastic deformation: the particles undergo permanent deformation, which promotes adhesion between them. • Fragmentation: some particles break into smaller fragments, thus increasing the contact surface for better cohesion. 4. Ejection: The formed tablet is expelled from the die by the movement of the lower punch, accompanied by low friction to avoid damaging the tablet.

[0051] [Tables2] Description % pure product 100.0000 Tricaprylin & Acacia Senegal Gum (SOFTISAN® MagicPOWDER S) 25-30% Aqua 2-5% Sodium Cocoyl Isethinoate (Iselux®) 3-5% Xanthan Gum 0.1-2% Zea Mays Starch 10-20% Citric Acid 0.1-0.5% Hydroxypropryl Starch Phosphate (Star Design Care) 3-6% Sorbitol 15-25% Erythritol (Erylite) 15-25% Sodium Benzoate 0.40% Parfum 1% Magnesium Stearate 0.01-0.1% TESTING CONCLUSION: - Very good compaction with very little sticking during compression: - Homogeneous 10g tablets without cleavage, - OK drop test (3 repetitions at + / -90cm). Activated starches give the tablet elastic properties, offering better shock resistance - Dilution takes place in less than 24 hours. - We observe the formation of a white, fluid emulsion without phase separation.

[0052] [Tables3] Description % pure product 100,0000 Tricaprylin & Acacia Senegal Gum brand (SOFTISAN® MagicPOWDER S) 45 - 50% Sodium Cocoyl Isethinoate (Iselux®) 3-5% Xanthan Gum 0.1-2% Zea Mays Starch (Beauté by Roquette ST 005) 15 - 20% Citric Acid 0.1-0.5% Hydroxypropryl Starch Phosphate (Star Design Care) 3-6% Sorbitol (Beaute By Roquette PO 160) 5 - 10% Erythritol (Erythritol) 5 - 10% Sodium Benzoate 0.40

[0053] TEST CONCLUSION: - Attractive appearance, good sturdiness. - Drop test (+ / -90cm) satisfactory - Dilution takes place in less than 24 hours. A white, fluid emulsion without phase separation is observed.

[0054] [Tables4] Description % pure product 100.0000 Tricaprylin & Acacia Senegal Gum (SOFTISAN® MagicPOWDER S) 25-35% Sodium Cocoyl Isethinoate (Iselux®) 3-5% Xanthan Gum 0.1-2% Zea Mays Starch (Beauté by Roquette ST 005) 15-20% Citric Acid 0.1-0.5% Hydroxypropryl Starch Phosphate (Agenajel 20.313) 7-12% Sorbitol (Beauté By Roquette PO 160) 5-20% Erythritol (Erythritol) 5 - 20% Sodium Benzoate 0.4 Fragrance 1

[0055] TEST CONCLUSION: - Attractive appearance, good sturdiness. - Dilution takes place in less than 24 hours. The product is compliant: formation of a white, fluid emulsion without phase separation.

[0056]

[0057] Example 2: Examples of cosmetic compositions in the form of a shower cream-type hygiene texture

[0058] The powders shown in Tables 5 to 6 are mixed to obtain the composition in powder form. The composition is then optionally compacted to obtain a tablet. Finally, water is added to the tablet, or directly to the powder or granules if there has been no compaction, to reconstitute the textured cosmetic composition in the form of a body wash such as a shower cream.

[0059] [Tables5] Description % pure product 100,0000 Tricaprylin & Acacia Senegal Gum brand (SOFTISAN® MagicPOWDER S) 20 - 25% Sodium Cocoyl Isethinoate (Iselux®) 5 - 8% Hydroxypropryl Starch Phosphate (Agenajel 20.313) 15 - 20% Microcrystalline Cellulose (Sensocel 8) 5 - 8% Sorbitol (Beaute By Roquette PO 160) 25 - 30% Erythritol (Erythritol) 25 - 30% Sodium Benzoate 0.4 Potassium Sorbate 0.45

[0060] TEST CONCLUSION: - The tablets are sturdy enough to be handled, - The dilution takes place in less than 24 hours. - We observe the formation of an emulsified cream gel, creamy texture and rapid foam deployment during use.

[0061] [Tableauxô] Description % pure product 100,0000 Tricaprylin & Acacia Senegal Gum brand (SOFTISAN® MagicPOWDER S) 20 - 25% Sodium Cocoyl Isethinoate (Iselux®) 5 - 8% Cellulose (Sensocel 8) 5 - 8% Sorbitol (Beaute By Roquette PO 160) 15 - 20% Erythritol (Erythritol) 15 - 20% Sodium Benzoate 0.4 Potassium Sorbate 0.45 Parfum 5-7% Caprylyl / Capryl Glucoside & Aqua (Oramix CG 110) 2-5%

[0062] TEST CONCLUSION: - Solid tablets, good disintegration, very smooth and soft cream texture.

[0063] Example 3: Examples of cosmetic compositions in the form of a serum-type skincare texture.

[0064] The powders shown in Tables 6 to 7 are mixed to obtain the composition in powder form. The composition is then optionally compacted to obtain a tablet. Finally, water is added to the tablet, or directly to the powder or granules if there has been no compaction, to reconstitute the textured cosmetic composition in the form of a skincare cosmetic product such as a serum.

[0065] [Tables?] Description % pure product 100.0000 Tricaprylin & Acacia Senegal Gum (SOFTISAN® MagicPOWDER S) 20-25% Xanthan Gum 4-5% Zea Mays Starch (Beauté by Roquette ST 005) 30-35% Citric Acid 0.475% Hydroxypropryl Starch Phosphate (Agenajel 20.313) 11-16% Sorbitol (Beaute By Roquette PO 160) 11 - 16% Erythritol (Erythritol) 12 - 14% Sodium Benzoate 1 Potassium Sorbate 0.9

[0066] TEST CONCLUSION: - Good compression, more concentrated formula than the example below (see [Table 8]) which offers a dilution ratio of 1 / 10 (10% of powder relative to the weight of reconstituted products).

[0067] [Tables8] Description % pure product 100.0000 Tricaprylin & Acacia Senegal Gum brand (SOFTISAN® MagicPOWDER S) 10 - 15% 20.313) 10 - 15% Sorbitol (Beaute By Roquette PO 160) 15 - 20% Erythritol (Erythritol) 18 - 20% Sodium Benzoate 0.8 Potassium Sorbate 0.75

[0068] TEST CONCLUSION: - Good compression, - formula offering a lower dilution ratio than the example [Table 7], ratio 1 / 15 (15% of powder relative to the weight of reconstituted product).

[0069] Description of a representative test of the core of the invention Description % pure product 100.0000 Tricaprylin & Acacia Senegal Gum (SOFTISAN® MagicPOWDER S) 20-25% Hydroxypropryl Starch Phosphate (Agenajel 20.313) 15-20% Sorbitol (Beaute By Roquette PO 160) 25-30% Erythritol (Erythritol) 25 - 30%

[0070] TEST CONCLUSION: - The tablets are sturdy enough to be handled. - Dilution takes place in less than 24 hours. Formation of an emulsified cream gel, creamy texture.

[0071] LIST OF REFERENCES

[0072] 1. Ph.Eur. 8.0:2.9.34.

[0073] 2. Myriam Vo (Tablets, a form of the future? University of Lorraine, 2015. French.

[0074] 3. Assia Saker. Critical study of some experimental evaluation techniques Powder flowability. Process engineering. University of Lorraine, 2018. French. ffNNT: 2018LORR0314ff. fftel-02130382.

[0075] 4. Amal TITA-GOLDSTEIN. Powder shaping by compression: Influence of process and formulation on the control of properties in use. Thesis. 2013.

[0076] 5. The United States Pharmacopeia Convention, USP 1217, May 1 2012, p. 868-870.

Claims

Demands

1. A dry composition capable of being pressed, comprising: - at least one polyol in powder form, - at least one gelling agent in powder form having flow properties corresponding to a Carr index less than or equal to 25 and a Hausner ratio less than or equal to 1.34, - a combination of an ester and Acacia Senegal Gum, - optionally, at least one surfactant, - optionally, at least one internal lubricant, - optionally, at least one preservative, - optionally, at least one buffering and pH-regulating agent, - optionally, at least one fragrance, - optionally, at least one disintegrating agent, said composition in the form of a pressable powder having flow properties corresponding to a Carr index less than or equal to 25 and a Hausner ratio less than or equal to 1.

34.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein said at least one powdered polyol is selected from erythritol and sorbitol.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein said at least one surfactant is selected from sulfonates, such as sodium lauryl sulfoacetate, sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate, sodium Laurylglucoside Hydroxypropylsulfonate, sodium Dodecylbenzenesulfonate Disodium Lauryl Sulfosuccinate, Sodium C14-17 Alkyl Sec Sulfonate, sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate, cocamidopropyl betaine, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium cocoyl glycinate and sodium cocoyl isethionate.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said at least one gelling agent is at least one activated or non-activated starch, in particular selected from hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, in particular sodium hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, distarch phosphate, sodium carboxymethyl starch, modified potato starch, rice starch such as Oryza sativa, or maize starch.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said at least one pH buffering and regulating agent is selected from citric acid and sodium citrate.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said at least one internal lubricant is selected from magnesium stearate, aluminum stearate and zinc stearate.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said at least one preservative is selected from sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate, sorbic acid and sodium dehydroacetate.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the concentration of at least one polyol is between 10 and 60% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the concentration of at least one surfactant is between 0.0001 and 45.0% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the concentration of at least one gelling agent is between 30% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the concentration in said combination of an ester and Acacia Senegal Gum is between 1 and 89% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

12. Composition according to claim 11, wherein said association of an ester and Acacia Senegal Gum is Tricaprylin (and) Acacia Senegal Gum.

13. Solid product obtained by pressing the dry composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 12.

14. A method for preparing a cosmetic composition, comprising diluting the solid product as defined in claim 13, or the dry composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 12, in 1 to 50 times its weight in water.

15. Cosmetic composition comprising from 1 to 50% by weight of a dry composition as defined in any of the

16. claims 1 to 12 or of a solid product as defined in claim 13, and of 50 to 99% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of said composition. Cosmetic use of a cosmetic composition as defined in claim 15, as a treatment, for example anti-aging, in particular to reduce the depth of wrinkles, moisturizing, smoothing, toning, brightening, as a cleansing product or as a hygiene product.