Composition comprising a modified polysaccharide and a specific organic compound

Abstract

Composition comprising a modified polysaccharide and a specific organic compound. The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, particularly for makeup and / or skin and / or lip care, especially for the skin, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) at least one saturated organic compound, linear or branched, cyclic or non-cyclic, of general formula CnH2nO3 in which the subscript n is an integer such that 5 ≤ n ≤ 9, preferably such that 6 ≤ n ≤ 9; and said compound comprises at least one hydroxyl group and at least one ester or ether functional group; and b) at least one modified polysaccharide. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: Composition comprising a modified polysaccharide and a specific organic compound

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

[0002] a) at least one saturated organic compound, linear or branched, cyclic or non-cyclic, of general formula CnH2nO3 in which the index n is an integer such that 5 < n < 9 (in other words, n is an integer between 5 and 9 inclusive), preferably such that 6 < n < 9 (in other words, n is an integer between 6 and 9 inclusive), and said compound comprises at least one hydroxyl group and at least one function selected from carboxylic ester or ether; and

[0003] b) at least one modified polysaccharide.

[0004] It also relates to a method of makeup and / or skin care and / or hair care, in which the composition according to the invention is applied to the skin and / or hair.

[0005] Cosmetic compositions for makeup very often contain volatile compounds. These compounds are necessary first and foremost to provide users with textures and sensory qualities when applying cosmetic products. Furthermore, these volatile compounds contribute to the expression of the final properties of the product film applied to the skin, such as coverage and film homogeneity.

[0006] There are several chemical classes of volatile cosmetic compounds, which can be lipophilic or hydrophilic. The main lipophilic volatile cosmetic compounds are, on the one hand, hydrocarbon compounds, which can be of mineral, vegetable, or animal origin, and on the other hand, synthetic silicones. Among hydrocarbon compounds, alkanes are increasingly used to limit the use of volatile silicones in cosmetic products, particularly in products based on natural or naturally derived ingredients. However, it turns out that the alkanes used for this purpose are nonpolar molecules, which do not exhibit optimal compatibility properties with a wide variety of cosmetic ingredients, such as colorants or polymers used for their film-forming and skin-adherent properties.

[0007] The main hydrophilic compounds such as water, or hydrophilic volatile solvents such as ethanol and isopropanol, which are polar, also do not show optimal compatibility properties with a wide variety of polymers or pigments.

[0008] In anhydrous compositions, to increase the polarity of the medium, it is possible to mix alkanes with absolute ethanol. However, absolute ethanol is not always compatible with colorants or other cosmetic raw materials such as polymers. Furthermore, ethanol can cause discomfort, which necessitates limiting its concentration in cosmetic compositions. In addition, ethanol has a very low flash point (13°C), which requires the implementation of safety measures when using this pure solvent, as well as during the manufacture, storage, and transport of cosmetic products containing ethanol. Finally, the very high volatility of ethanol can lead to a very short playtime, potentially resulting in a depreciation of the cosmetic product.

[0009] The "playtime" of a cosmetic product refers to the time the user can work with it during application, particularly on the skin, and therefore reflects the ease of application. Playtime can play a key role in the effectiveness of a cosmetic skincare and / or makeup routine. For example, the "contouring" technique is a cosmetic technique for sculpting the face, which requires roughly applying a light shade to areas to be highlighted and a dark shade to areas to be slimmed, then blending the two shades with a finger or brush for a unified and natural finish. The playtime of the tinted compositions used must be long enough to allow for the various steps of makeup application: applying, blending different shades, smudging, etc.Thus, playtime can have a real impact on the ease of application, on the perception of a cosmetic product, and on the final result, particularly of makeup.

[0010] It is therefore necessary to find polar volatile compounds that are favorable to the good dispersion, in all types of aqueous and / or oily formulas, of cosmetic ingredients, in particular adhesion promoters, such as film-forming polymers, polysaccharides or resins, as well as coloring materials, pigments and fillers, whatever their nature or surface, in particular with or without coating, and which also allow good expression of colonic properties upon deposition, in particular in terms of homogeneity and coverage, while ensuring good sensory properties upon application and sufficient playtime.

[0011] Colonial properties at the deposit refer to both makeup performance (color, homogeneity, coverage, and even shine) and photoprotection performance according to the same criteria (color, homogeneity, coverage), particularly with regard to mineral pigments for photoprotection or inorganic UV filters.

[0012] The formulator is therefore looking for raw materials and / or systems that allow for the production of stable compositions which have a covering, homogeneous deposit and good playtime, while leaving a comfortable, possibly glossy (with controlled gloss) film and good hold on keratinous materials, preferably skin.

[0013] Furthermore, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, that is to say whose design and development take into account environmental issues, is becoming a major concern to help meet global challenges.

[0014] It is therefore essential to propose more sustainable compositions and / or preparation processes and / or ingredients, thus enabling us to meet these environmental challenges.

[0015] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of raw materials that are at least partially renewable and / or have a good naturalness index and / or are of natural origin and as much as possible of plant origin, while increasingly reducing the use of petrochemical compounds.

[0016] The difficulty remains, however, to reconcile these latest trends with the fact that consumers do not want to give up the very high performance to which they have become accustomed with the products they already use, which include, in particular, silicone film-forming polymers.

[0017] We are therefore still looking for high-performance, comfortable makeup compositions that also have very good staying power, without the need to use the film-forming polymers classically used, in particular silicone polymers, and which are more environmentally friendly, by using for example more natural or naturally derived compounds.

[0018] The present invention aims to provide cosmetic compositions, preferably coloured, with good film-forming properties, particularly in terms of homogeneity, coverage, shine, and sufficient playtime to guarantee, in use, a spreading quality and a sensory experience that meets the expectations of the user of these compositions.

[0019] The applicant unexpectedly discovered that these objectives could be achieved with a skincare and / or makeup composition of keratinous materials, comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium, the combination of a polar solvent having a specific chemical structure and physicochemical properties with at least one modified polysaccharide, and possibly a coloring raw material, allowing the development of fluid to viscous, or even solid, cosmetic products exhibiting good dispersion quality of Modified polysaccharides, and potentially coloring agents, ensure good playtime, even application, and good coverage. Indeed, after application, these compositions leave a thick, even, and durable film-forming deposit that is resistant to wear, friction, dryness, water, and oil, as well as to chemical agents and transfer. These compositions may also contain more sustainable ingredients, thus addressing environmental concerns.

[0020] The present invention therefore relates to a cosmetic composition, in particular for makeup and / or skin and / or lip care, in particular for the skin, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium:

[0021] - at least one organic compound a) saturated, linear or branched, cyclic or non-cyclic cyclic, of general formula CnH2nO3 in which: the index n is an integer such that 6 < n < 9 (n is an integer between 6 and 9 inclusive), and said compound comprises at least one hydroxyl group and at least one functional group selected from carboxylic ester (hereinafter "ester") or ether (hereinafter "ether"); and

[0022] - at least one modified polysaccharide b);

[0023] and possibly at least one compound selected from pigment coloring materials.

[0024] By “physiologically acceptable”, we mean a medium compatible with keratinous materials.

[0025] The invention relates in particular to a cosmetic composition, especially for makeup and / or skincare, for the skin of the body or face, particularly the face, and / or lips and / or eyelashes and / or hair; particularly facial skin; comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

[0026] - at least one organic compound a) saturated, linear or branched, cyclic or non-cyclic cyclic, of general formula CnH2nO3 in which: the index n is an integer such that 5 < n < 9 (in other words, n is an integer between 5 and 9 inclusive), preferably such that 6 < n < 9 (n is an integer between 6 and 9 inclusive), and said compound comprises at least one hydroxyl group and at least one functional group selected from carboxylic ester (hereinafter "ester") or ether (hereinafter "ether"); and

[0027] - at least one modified polysaccharide b);

[0028] and may optionally further comprise at least one of the following ingredients and mixtures thereof:

[0029] - at least one crystallizable fat b'); and / or

[0030] - at least one polyester c) which is the reaction product of components (i), (ii) and (iii) the following: (i) at least one polyglycerol-3, (ii) at least one dimeric acid, and (iii) at least one monofatty acid having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, components (i), (ii) and (iii) reacted being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of mono-fatty acid; and / or

[0031] - at least one compound selected from d) pigment coloring materials; and / or

[0032] - at least one linear or C2-C4 branched monoalcohol; and / or

[0033] - at least one volatile oil and / or at least one non-volatile oil, preferably with less a volatile hydrocarbon oil, in particular different from compound a); and / or

[0034] - at least water

[0035] It also relates to a method of makeup and / or skin care and / or hair care, in which the composition according to the invention is applied to the skin and / or hair.

[0036] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 15% by weight, preferably less than 10% by weight, preferably less than 5% by weight, of silicone oil, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0037] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is substantially free of silicone oil, or even free of silicone.

[0038] By "substantially free of silicone" is meant that the composition comprises less than 10%, preferably less than 5%, preferably less than 1%, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.3% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% of silicone oil, preferably silicone. Preferably, the composition is totally free of silicone. By silicone is meant any silicone compound. Compound a)

[0039] The composition of the invention comprises at least one saturated organic compound, linear or branched, cyclic (at least partially cyclic) or non-cyclic, of general formula CnH2nO3 in which the index n is an integer such that 5 < n < 9 (in other words n is an integer between 5 and 9 inclusive), preferably such that 6 < n < 9, in other words n is an integer between 6 and 9 inclusive; and said compound of formula CnH2nO3 comprises at least one hydroxyl group and at least one function selected from carboxylic ester or ether-oxide.

[0040] The flash point of said compound a) is advantageously between 20°C and 120°C, preferably between 25°C and 115°C, preferably between 30°C and 110°C, preferably between 35°C and 107°C, preferably between 40°C and 105°C, or even between 45°C and 100°C.

[0041] The flash point (FP) is the lowest temperature of a test portion of a product, brought down to a barometric pressure of 101.3 kPa, at which the presentation of an ignition source causes the vapors of that source to ignite after a short delay, the flame propagating across the surface of the liquid, in operating under the prescribed test conditions. If the heat source is removed, ignition stops. This testing method follows the international standard ISO 3679:2015 (Method A - flash no-flash test, at equilibrium in a closed vessel). A measuring device such as the "Setaflash Series 8 Active Cool Flash Point Tester" can be used.

[0042] The compound a) advantageously exhibits a non-zero vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular a vapor pressure ranging from 2.66 Pa to 40,000 Pa, particularly from 2.66 Pa to 13,000 Pa, particularly from 3 Pa to 2,000 Pa, or even from 3 Pa to 1,000 Pa, and more particularly from 4 Pa ​​to 500 Pa. The vapor pressure can be measured using the static method or the isothermal thermogravimetric effusion method, according to the vapor pressure of the oil (OECD 104 standard).

[0043] Advantageously, said compound a) is selected from those comprising a hydroxyl group and two ether functions, preferably comprising at least one cyclic ether function, preferably comprising a cyclic ether containing two ether functions, such as a dioxane ring or a dioxolane ring; preferably said compound a) comprises a hydroxyl group and a 1,3-dioxolane ring, and mixtures thereof. Preferably in this case, the index n of compound a) is an integer such that 6 < n < 8 (n is between 6 and 8 inclusive). Preferably said compound a) is then selected from 2,2-Dimethyl-4-hydroxymethyl-1,3-dioxolane (or isopropylideneglycerol), 4-(2-Hydroxyethyl)-2,2-dimethyl-1,3-dioxolane, (4S)-(+)-4-(2-Hydroxyethyl)-2,2-dimethyl-1,3-dioxolane, and mixtures thereof.

[0044] According to a second embodiment, said compound a) is chosen from among the hydroxy carboxylic esters in which the index n is an integer such that 5 < n < 9 (in other words n is an integer between 5 and 9 inclusive), preferably in which the index n is an integer such that 7 < n < 9 (n is between 7 and 9 inclusive). Preferably, said compound a) is thus selected from Ethyl Lactate, Propyl Lactate, Isopropyl Lactate, Butyl Glycolate, Butyl Lactate, Isobutyl Lactate, Methyl 3-Hydroxyhexanoate, tert-Butyl 3-Hydroxypropanoate, Amyl Lactate, Isoamyl Lactate, Hexyl Lactate, and mixtures thereof.

[0045] Preferably, compound a) is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 99% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 98% by weight, preferably from 1% to 95% by weight, preferably from 1% to 90%, preferably from 1% to 80% by weight, preferably from 1.5% to 70%, preferably from 1.5% to 60% by weight, preferably from 1.5% to 50% by weight,

[0046]

[0047]

[0048]

[0049] preferably 2% to 40% by weight, preferably 3% to 30% by weight, preferably 4% to 25% by weight, or even 5% to 20%, and preferably 5% to 15% by weight of compound a), on the total weight of the composition representing 100%. Preferably, compound a) is present in a content of less than 80% by weight, preferably less than 70% by weight, preferably less than 60% by weight, preferably less than 50% by weight, or even less than 40% by weight, better less than 30%, or even less than 20%, in particular less than 15%, or even less than 10% by weight, on the total weight of the composition representing 100%. Thus, the solvents of the invention correspond, for example, to derivatives of lactic acid or dioxolane. They may optionally contain rings. As examples, the following compounds a) can be cited: Raw formula INCI name Chemical structure Flash point Flash point (°C) (Suppliers) Mw (g / mo 1) C5H10O3 Ethyl Lactate U. '-"'V' O" OH 56 118 c6h12o3 Isopropylideneglyce roi .X. : 91 132 c6h12o3 Propyl lactate o OH 57 132 c6h12o3 Butyl glycolate G 74 132 c7h14o3 4-(2-Hydroxyethyl)-2,2-dimethyl-1,3-dio xolane yCH3 66-92 146 c7h14o3 (4S)-(+)-4-(2-Hydro xyethyl)-2,2-dimethy 1-1,3-dioxolane FOC CK; 101 146 c7h14o3 Butyl Lactate .-'-x, "Y v 146 c7h14o3 tert-Butyl 3-hydroxy propionate OH$C—[-CHS CH3 84 146 c8h16o3 Amyl lactate 79 160 c8h16o3 Isoamyl Lactate 74-78 160 c9h18o3 Hexyl Lactate 100 174

[0050] Examples of preferred lactates include isopropyl lactate (C6), butyl lactate (C7) and hexyl lactate (C9).

[0051] As examples of compounds a) we can also mention Isopropylidene glycerol, also called 2,2-dimethyl-4-hydroxymethyl-l,3-dioxolane, or 1,2-isopropylidene glycerol.

[0052] Butyl lactate, and Isopropylidene glycerol, are among the preferred compounds a) of the Invention.

[0053] The compound a) advantageously forms a polar volatile hydrocarbon solvent, particularly compatible with the modified polysaccharide(s) b) according to the invention, and even also with the possible pigment coloring matter d).

[0054] Other volatile hydrocarbon solvents - possible polar solvents

[0055] Advantageously the composition according to the invention may further comprise an additional "polar volatile hydrocarbon solvent", different from compound a) according to the invention.

[0056] By "volatile solvent", for the purposes of the invention, means any solvent of the pigment colouring material(s) b) according to the invention, capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, preferably in less than 30 minutes, when applied as a thin film of 10 pm wet thickness, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile solvent is a volatile cosmetic compound, liquid at room temperature (20°C), having a non-zero vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, specifically a vapor pressure ranging from 2.66 Pa to 40,000 Pa, particularly from 2.66 Pa to 13,000 Pa, and more specifically from 2.66 Pa to 1300 Pa. The vapor pressure can be measured using the static method or the isothermal thermogravimetric effusion method, according to the vapor pressure of the oil (OECD 104 standard).

[0057] The term "polar hydrocarbon solvent" means a solvent for the pigment coloring material(s) b) according to the invention containing mainly atoms of hydrogen and carbon and one or more functions chosen from among the hydroxyl, ester, ether and ketone functions.

[0058] According to a preferred form, the polar volatile hydrocarbon solvent(s) is / are chosen from among the C2-C4 monoalcohols.

[0059] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one linear or C2-C4 branched monoalcohol, such as, for example, ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol, n-butanol, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly ethanol.

[0060] An advantage of the composition of the invention is the ability to limit the volatile alcohol(s) level, which often causes discomfort (dryness, tingling) without losing solubilizing power.

[0061] If the composition includes them, the content of linear or branched C2-C4 monoalcohol(s) may advantageously be less than or equal to 50% by weight, preferably less than 40% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 30% by weight, advantageously less than or equal to 20%, preferably less than or equal to 15%, or even less than or equal to 10%, or even less than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0062] Preferably, the content of linear or branched C2-C4 monoalcohol(s) is less than or equal to 15% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 12%, preferably less than or equal to 10%, preferably less than or equal to 8%, preferably less than or equal to 5%, preferably less than or equal to 4%, preferably less than or equal to 3%, preferably less than or equal to 2%, preferably less than or equal to 1%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0063] Furthermore, if the composition includes it, the content of linear or branched C2-C4 monoalcohol(s) is such that the weight ratio of the total quantity of compound(s) a) to the total quantity of volatile polar hydrocarbon solvent(s) other than compound(s) a) is greater than 1, it being understood that the linear or branched C2-C4 monoalcohol(s) are considered together with the volatile polar hydrocarbon solvent(s) other than compound a). Thus, the composition according to the invention comprises a majority of compound a) of the invention compared to any monoalcohol(s). Modified polysaccharides b)

[0064] The composition of the invention comprises one or more modified polysaccharide(s).

[0065] - a "sugar" is a monosaccharide radical, or polysaccharide, and their derivatives O-protected sugars such as sugar esters and (Cl-C6)alkylcarboxylic acids like acetic acid, sugars with amine group(s) and (Cl-C4)alkylated derivatives, such than methylated derivatives such as methylglucose. Examples of sugar radicals include: sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose;

[0066] - by "monosaccharide" is meant a monosaccharide sugar comprising at least 5 carbon atoms of formula Cx(H2O)x, with x an integer greater than or equal to 5, preferably x is greater than or equal to 6, in particular x is inclusively between 5 and 7, preferably x = 6, they may be of D or L configuration, and of alpha or beta anomer, as well as their salts and their solvates such as hydrates;

[0067] - by "polysaccharide" we mean a polysaccharide sugar which is a polymer consisting of several sugars linked together by O-glycosidic bonds, said polymers being made up of monosaccharide units (also called mono-glycosidic units) as defined above, said monosaccharide units comprising at least 5 carbon atoms, preferably 6, particularly the monosaccharide units are linked together in 1,4 or 1,6 in alpha or beta anomer, each glycosidic unit being able to be of L or D configuration, as well as its salts and solvates such as the hydrates of said monosaccharides;more specifically, these are polymers formed from a certain number of sugars (or monosaccharides) having the general formula: -[Cx(H2O)y)]w- or -[(CH2O)x]w-, with x an integer greater than or equal to 5, preferably x greater than or equal to 6, in particular x is between 5 and 7 inclusive, preferably x = 6, and y an integer representing x - 1, and w is an integer greater than or equal to 2, particularly between 3 and 3000 inclusive, more particularly between 5 and 2500, preferably between 10 and 2300, particularly between 15 and 1000 inclusive, more particularly between 20 and 500, preferably between 25 and 200; ;

[0068] Preferably, the polysaccharide(s) are thickening polymers.

[0069] By "thickening polymer" is meant a polymer which, when introduced at 1% by weight into an alcoholic solution, or a lipoalcoholic solution with 50% ethanol, or into an oil chosen from petroleum jelly, isopropyl myristate, octyldodecanol or cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, makes it possible to achieve a viscosity of at least 100 cps, preferably at least 500 cps, at 25 °C and at a shear rate of 1 s-1. This viscosity can be measured using a cone / plate viscometer (Haake R600 rheometer or similar).

[0070] The polysaccharide(s) useful to the invention are cationic, nonionic, anionic or amphoteric polymers, preferably cationic, nonionic or anionic, better nonionic, modified by the presence of at least one aliphatic hydrocarbon chain, cyclic or non-cyclic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or non-aromatic, comprising from 2 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more atoms or groups a), f), g), h), i), j), 1) as defined below and / or p) (di)alkylamino and / or optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups a') to c') as defined below: i) (C5-C28)alkyl, linear or branched, ii) (C5-C28)alkenyl, linear or branched, iii) (C5-C28)alkynyl, linear or branched, preferably the hydrocarbon group is linear; a) halogens such as chlorine or bromine, f) (thio)carboxamide -C(O)-N(Ra)2 or -C(S)-N(Ra)2, g) cyano, h) iso(thio)cyanate, i) (hetero)aryl such as phenyl or furyl, and j) (hetero)cycloalkyl such as anhydride, epoxide or dithiolane, 1) RX with R representing a group selected from a) cycloalkyl such as cyclohexyl, 2) heterocycloalkyl such as sugar, preferably monosaccharide such as glucose, y) (hetero)aryl such as phenyl, 3) cosmetic active, m) thiosulfate and X representing a') O, S, N(Ra) or Si(Rb)(Rc), b') S(O)r, or (thio)carbonyl, c') or combinations of a') with b') such as (thio)ester, (thio)amide, (thio)urea, sulfonamide;Ra representing a hydrogen atom, or a (Cl-C4)alkyl group, or aryl(Cl-C4)alkyl such as benzyl, preferably Ra representing a hydrogen atom; Rb and Rc, identical or different, representing a (Cl-C4)alkyl or (Cl-C4)alkoxy group, particularly a single substituent; and / or a') heteroatoms such as O, S, N(Ra), and Si(Rb)(Rc), b') S(O)r, (thio)carbonyl, c') or combinations of a') with b') such as (thio)ester, (thio)amide, (thio)urea, sulfonamide with r being 1 or 2, Ra being as defined above, preferably Ra representing a hydrogen atom, Rb and Rc being as defined above.

[0071] The "polysaccharides" are as defined above, in addition the sugar motifs -[Cx(H2O)y)]w- or -[(CH2O)X]W-, are optionally modified by substitution, by oxidation, by dehydration, and / or by reduction.

[0072] As examples of the sugars of the polysaccharide(s) useful to the invention, preferably include glucose; galactose; arabinose; rhamnose; mannose; xylose; fucose; anhydrogalactose; galacturonic acid; glucuronic acid; mannuronic acid; galactose sulfate; anhydrogalactose sulfate and fructose.

[0073] Examples of modified polysaccharides derived from native gums such as those from tree or shrub exudates, algae, seeds or tubers, fungi, bacteria, animal organisms, plants, which have been modified by physical, chemical or enzymatic reactions, may be cited.

[0074] Native gums can be chosen from: - gum arabic (branched polysaccharide of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); - Ghatti gum (polymer derived from arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose and glucuronic acid); - karaya gum (polymer derived from galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); - tragacanth gum (or tragacanth) (polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose and arabinose); - agar (polymer derived from galactose and anhydrogalactose); - alginates (polymers of mannuronic acid and glucuronic acid); - carrageenans and furcelleranes (polymers of galactose sulfate and anhydrogalactose sulfate); - guar gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); - carob gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); - fenugreek gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); - tamarind gum (polymer of galactose, xylose and glucose); - konjac gum (polymer of glucose and mannose); - xanthan gum (polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose / pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid) or dehydroxanthan gum; - gellan gum (polymer of partially acylated glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); - scleroglucan gum (glucose polymer) - cellulose (polymer of glucose); - starch (polymer of glucose); - inulin and - pectin.

[0075] Particularly the modified polysaccharides are derived from: i) acacia gum; ii) ghatti gum; iii) karaya gum; iv) tragacanth gum; v) agar; vi) alginates; vii) carrageenans and furcelleranes; viii) guar gum; ix) locust bean gum; x) fenugreek gum; xi) tamarind gum; xii) konjac gum; xiii) xanthan gum or dehydroxanthan gum; xiv) gellan gum; xv) scleroglucan gum; xvi) cellulose; xvii) starch; xviii) inulin; and xix) pectin; preferably selected from xvi), xvii) and xviii), more preferably xvii).

[0076] The starch molecules xvii) used in the present invention may have cereals or tubers as their botanical origin. Thus, the starches are, for example, chosen from corn, rice, cassava, barley, potato, wheat, sorghum, and pea starches.

[0077] Starches can be modified chemically or physically: in particular by one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, etherification, amidification, heat treatments.

[0078] According to one embodiment of the invention, the modified polysaccharide(s) are non-ionic.

[0079] These polymers can be modified by physical or chemical means. Temperature can be one example of a physical treatment.

[0080] Examples of chemical treatments include esterification, etherification, amidation, oxidation, metathesis, and addition reactions. These treatments lead to polymers that can be, in particular, nonionic, anionic, or amphoteric.

[0081] Preferably these chemical or physical treatments are applied to guar gums, locust bean gums, starches and celluloses.

[0082] The modifiable starch molecules that can be used to manufacture modified starches according to the present invention may have cereals or tubers as their botanical origin. Thus, the starches are, for example, chosen from corn, rice, cassava, barley, potato, wheat, sorghum, and pea starches.

[0083] Starches can be modified chemically or physically: in particular by one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, etherification, amidification, heat treatments.

[0084] The starch molecules xvii) may be derived from any plant source of starch, such as, in particular, maize, potato, oats, rice, tapioca, sorghum, barley, or wheat, which have been modified to link at least one aliphatic hydrocarbon chain, cyclic or non-cyclic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or non-aromatic, comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more atoms or groups a), f), g), h), i), j), 1) as defined above; and / or p) (di)alkylamino and / or optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups a') to c') as defined above. Hydrolysates of the starches mentioned above may also be used. The modified starch is preferably derived from potato starch.

[0085] According to one embodiment, the modified polysaccharides are polysaccharide ethers called alkylpolysaccharides whose alkyl radical comprises between 2 and 30, preferably between 2 and 10, more preferably between 2 and 6 carbon atoms.

[0086] Preferably the alkyl polysaccharides b) according to the invention are derived from cellulose or guar or mixtures thereof.

[0087] According to one embodiment, the modified polysaccharides are alkylcelluloses whose linear or branched alkyl residue comprises between 1 and 10 carbon atoms, in particular between 2 and 6 carbon atoms, preferably between 2 and 3 carbon atoms.

[0088] Alkylcellulose is an alkyl cellulose ether comprising a chain made up of [3-anhydroglucose] units linked together by acetal bonds. Each unit Anhydroglucose has three replaceable hydroxyl groups, all or part of these hydroxyl groups being able to react according to the following reaction:

[0089] Cell-OM + R-Hal Cell-OR + MHal

[0090] with Hal representing a halogen such as Cl with M representing a cationic counter ion such as alkali metal Na or K, or alkaline earth metal, preferably an alkali metal such as Na, Cell representing a polysaccharide radical such as cellulose, where R represents a linear or branched alkyl group, comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably between 2 and 3 carbon atoms such as methyl or ethyl, and MHal the generated salt such as sodium chloride.

[0091] Advantageously, the alkylcellulose is chosen from ethylcellulose and propylcellulose. In a particularly preferred embodiment, the alkylcellulose is ethylcellulose. It is an ethyl ether of cellulose.

[0092] Total substitution of the three hydroxyl groups would lead to a degree of substitution of 3 for each anhydroglucose unit, in other words to an alkoxy group content of between 40% and 60%, in particular around 55% (54.88%).

[0093] The ethylcellulose polymers used in a composition according to the invention are preferably polymers having a degree of substitution in ethoxy groups ranging from 2.5 to 2.6 per anhydroglucose unit, in other words comprising an ethoxy group content ranging from 44 to 50%.

[0094] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the modified polysaccharide of the invention is ethylcellulose in powder form. It is, for example, marketed under the trade names ETHOCEL Standard by Dow Chemicals, including ETHOCEL Standard 7 FP Premium and ETHOCEL Standard 100 FP Premium. Other commercially available products, such as those marketed by Ashland, Inc., under the names Aqualon Ethylcellulose type-K, type-N, and type-T, preferably type-N, such as N7 and N100, are particularly suitable for the implementation of the invention.

[0095] According to another embodiment, the polysaccharide ethers are alkylguars (i.e., guar gums) modified by substitution of hydrogen of hydroxyl by a linear or branched alkyl group, comprising between 1 and 10 carbon atoms, in particular between 2 and 6 carbon atoms, preferably between 2 and 3 carbon atoms such as 2 carbon atoms.

[0096] The alkylguar polymers used in a Cl or C' 1 composition according to the invention are preferably ethylguar.

[0097] Ethylguar is known by the INCI name: Ci-C5 alkyl galactomannan.

[0098] It has more particularly a degree of substitution of 2 to 3, and in particular of 2.5 to 2.8.

[0099] Alkylated guar gums (with alkyl group in Ci-C6), including ethylguar, are described in particular in patent application EP 708114 and document RD9537807 (October 1995), as well as their preparation process.

[0100] According to one embodiment, the modified polysaccharides b) are polysaccharide esters, in particular esters obtained by reaction between at least one polysaccharide such as dextrin with at least one linear or branched saturated or unsaturated acid comprising from 2 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0101] According to a particular embodiment, the modified polysaccharides of the invention are selected from xvi) cellulose or its derivatives such as hydroxy(C1-C5)alkylcelluloses, xvii) starch and xviii) rinulin; said polysaccharides xvi), xvii) and xviii) comprising at least one C8-C30 fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl groups or mixtures thereof wherein the linear or branched alkyl groups, preferably linear, are in C8-C30 and in particular:

[0102] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the modified polysaccharide(s) are chosen from mono- or polyalkylesters of saccharide or polysaccharide.

[0103] Among the mono- or polyalkylesters of saccharide or polysaccharide suitable for implementing the invention, mention may be made of alkyl or polyalkyl esters of dextrin or inulin.

[0104] This may include, in particular, a mono- or polyester of dextrin (dextrin being derived from starch xvii) and at least one fatty acid (such as RC(O)-OH) and in particular

[0105] Formula (XVIII) wherein: • n is an integer greater than or equal to 2, preferably ranging from 3 to 200, in particular ranging from 20 to 150, and especially ranging from 25 to 50, • Ri, R2 and R3, identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an acyl group (RC(O)-) in which the radical R is a hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, possessing from 7 to 29, in particular of 7 to 21, in particular from 11 to 19, more particularly from 13 to 17, or even 15, carbon atoms, it being understood that at least one of the said Rb radicals R2 or R3 is different from hydrogen.

[0106] In particular, RB R2 and R3 represent a hydrogen atom or an acyl group (RC(O)-) in which R is a hydrocarbon radical as defined above, provided that at least two of said radicals Rh R2 or R3 are different from hydrogen.

[0107] The set of radicals Rb R2 and R3 can represent an identical or different acyl group (RC(O)), and the acyl groups are in particular identical.

[0108] In particular, n previously stated varies advantageously from 25 to 50, in particular is equal to 38 in the general formula of the saccharide ester usable in the present invention.

[0109] In particular, when the radicals RB R2 and / or R3, identical or different, represent an acyl group (RC(O)), derived from fatty carboxylic acid RC(O)OH preferably selected from caprylic, capric, lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, arachic, behenic, isobutyric, isovaleric, 2-ethylbutyric, ethylmethylacetic, isoheptanoic, 2-ethylhexanoic, isononanoic, isodecanoic, isotridecanoic, isomyristic, isopalmitic, isostearic, isoaracic, isohexanoic, decenoic, dodecenoic, tetradecenoic, myristoleic, hexadecenoic, palmitoleic, oleic, elaidic, asclepinic, gondoleic, eicosenoic, sorbic, linoleic, linolenic, punicic, stearidonic, arachidonic, stearolic, and mixtures thereof.

[0110] Preferably, at least one dextrin palmitate is used as the ester of dextrin and fatty acid(s). This can be used alone or in a mixture with other esters.

[0111] Advantageously, the dextrin and fatty acid ester has a degree of substitution less than or equal to 2.5 on the basis of one glucose unit, in particular ranging from 1.5 to 2.5, preferably from 2 to 2.5. The average weight molecular weight of the dextrin ester may in particular be from 10,000 to 150,000, in particular from 12,000 to 100,000 and even from 15,000 to 80,000.

[0112] Preferably the modified polysaccharide(s) of the invention are dextrin esters, and preferably are dextrin palmitates.

[0113] Dextrin esters, in particular dextrin palmitates, are commercially available under the name RHEOPEARL KL2®, MKL2®, TL® or KL® from Chiba Flour.

[0114] According to one embodiment, the modified polysaccharide is a modified dextrin, preferably a dextrin ester, more particularly a dextrin and saturated or unsaturated fatty acid ester, linear or branched in Ci2-C24.

[0115] Preferably, the dextrin ester is selected from C14-C24 linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acid esters such as myristic acid, palmitic acid, or mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, the dextrin ester is selected from palmitate dextrin such as RHEOPEARL KL2® and RHEOPEARL TL2® marketed by CHIBA FLOUR, myristate dextrin such as that marketed under the reference RHEOPEARL MKL2® by CHIBA FLOUR, palmitate / ethylhexanoate dextrin marketed under the reference RHEOPEARL TT2®, palmitate / hexyldecanoate dextrin marketed under the reference RHEOPEARL WX, or mixtures thereof.

[0116] According to a preferred embodiment, the modified polysaccharide refers to dextrin palmitate

[0117] According to one embodiment, the modified polysaccharide is a modified inulin, preferably an inulin ester, more particularly an inulin and saturated or unsaturated fatty acid ester, linear or C12-C24 branched.

[0118] Preferably, the inulin ester is selected from C14-C24 linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acid esters such as myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, preferably stearic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0119] According to one embodiment, the inulin ester is a stearoyl inulin such as the references REOPEARL ISK2® and RHEOPEARL ISL2® marketed by CHIBA FLOUR or their mixtures.

[0120] According to one embodiment, the modified polysaccharide is a modified cellulose, preferably a cellulose ester, more particularly a cellulose and saturated or unsaturated acid ester, linear or C2-C24 branched.

[0121] Preferably, the cellulose ester is chosen from saturated or unsaturated acid esters, linear or branched in C2-C10, preferably in C2-C6, especially in C2-C4, such as acetic acid, butyric acid or mixtures thereof.

[0122] According to one embodiment, the cellulose ester is a cellulose acetate butyrate such as the reference EASTMAN CELLULOSE ACETATE BUTYRATE® marketed by EASTMAN CHEMICAL.

[0123] Among polysaccharide esters, pullulan esters can also be mentioned. Pullulan is a polysaccharide made up of maltotriose units.

[0124] According to one embodiment, the modified polysaccharides are polysaccharide esters. Polysaccharide esters are understood to be polysaccharides in which at least one of the hydroxy radicals is esterified by an acid to form -OC(O)-R or -C(O)-OR ester groups in which R designates a saturated or unsaturated radical of 2 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 11 to 19 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 17 carbon atoms such as 13 carbon atoms.

[0125] Advantageously, the polysaccharide ester is myristoyl pullulan.

[0126] According to another (less preferred) embodiment, the modified polysaccharide(s) of the invention are cationic. Preferably, these chemical or physical treatments for obtaining at least one cationic group are applied to guar gums, locust bean gums, starches, and celluloses.

[0127] The cationic groups may be of primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine type, preferably quaternary, and comprise an aliphatic chain in C6-C30.

[0128] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the modified polysaccharide(s) are selected from quaternized (poly)hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one aliphatic (or fatty) chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl, or alkylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof. The alkyl groups on the quaternized celluloses or hydroxyethylcelluloses preferably comprise from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The aryl groups preferably designate phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl, or anthryl groups.Examples of quaternized alkylhydroxyethyl 1-celluloses with C8-C30 fatty chains include QUATRISOFT LM 200®, QUATRISOFT LM-X 529-18-A®, QUATRISOFT LM-X 529-18-B® (C12 alkyl) and QUATRISOFT LM-X 529-8® (C18 alkyl) products sold by Dow Corning, CRODACEL QM®, CRODACEL QL® (Ci2 alkyl) and CRODACEL QS® (Ci8 alkyl) products sold by CRODA, and SOFTCAT SL 100® product sold by Dow Corning.

[0129] The non-ionic guar gums usable according to the invention can be modified by (poly)hydroxylakylammonium groups in CrC2o, preferably (poly)hydroxyalkyl in Ci-C6, we may in particular mention by way of example, the halide groups of hydroxymethyltrimmonium, hydroxyethyltrimmonium, hydroxypropyltrimmonium and hydroxybutyltrimmonium preferably halide of Hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.

[0130] Such cationic guar gums modified by hydroxyalkylammonium groups are for example sold by the company Solvay under the trade names Cationic Jaguar® C-14S Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride F Jaguar® C-13S Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride F Jaguar® C-17 Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride Jaguar® Excel Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride Jaguar® C-500 STD Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride Jaguar® C-162 Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride Jaguar® Optima Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride Jaguar® LS Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride.

[0131] Preferably the modified polysaccharide is selected from modified polysaccharides derived from acacia gum; ghatti gum; karaya gum; tragacanth gum; agar; alginates; carrageenans and furcelleranes; guar gum; locust bean gum; fenugreek gum; tamarind gum; konjac gum; xanthan gum or dehydroxanthan gum; gellan gum; scleroglucan gum; cellulose; starch; dextrin, pullulan, rinulin; and pectin; preferably selected from cellulose; starch; dextrin, pullulan, inulin, more preferably cellulose.

[0132] Advantageously, the modified polysaccharide is selected from:

[0133] - alkyl polysaccharides having an alkyl radical comprising between 2 and 30, preferably between 2 and 10, more preferably between 2 and 6 carbon atoms; preferably the modified polysaccharide is a cellulose or guar derivative; preferably the modified polysaccharide is an alkylcellulose whose linear or branched alkyl residue comprises between 1 and 10 carbon atoms, in particular between 2 and 6 carbon atoms, preferably between 2 and 3 carbon atoms, or an alkylguar; preferably the modified polysaccharide is selected from ethylcellulose, propylcellulose, and ethylguar, preferably ethylcellulose; and

[0134] - polysaccharide esters;

[0135] Preferably, the modified polysaccharide is selected from dextrin palmitate, pullulan myristoyl, ethylcellulose and ethyl guar.

[0136] The total quantity of the modified polysaccharide(s) present in the composition according to the invention is in the range of 0.05% to 25% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 20% by weight, even more preferably from 0.2% to 15% by weight, preferably between 0.3% and 12%, preferably between 0.5% and 10% and in a particularly preferred manner from 0.7% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0137] Preferably, the weight ratio between the total quantity of compound a) and the total quantity of the modified polysaccharide(s) b), present in the composition, ranges from 0.05 to 200, more preferably from 0.1 to 100, more preferably from 0.2 to 50, preferably from 0.5 to 20, preferably from 0.5 to 10. Crystallizable fats b')

[0138] The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one crystallizable fat.

[0139] By "fats and oils," we mean an organic compound insoluble in water at ordinary room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg) (solubility less than 5% and preferably less than 1%, and even more preferably less than 0.1%). They have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms or a chain of at least two groups siloxane. The crystallizable fat(s) of the invention are of natural or synthetic origin, preferably natural, more preferably of vegetable or animal origin, specifically insect origin. They differ from fatty acids because saline fatty acids constitute soaps that are generally soluble in aqueous media.

[0140] For the purposes of this invention, crystallizable fat means a solid lipophilic compound that is deformable or non-deformable at room temperature (25°C) and has a melting point greater than or equal to 25°C, preferably between 25°C and 200°C, preferably between 35°C and 150°C, preferably between 45°C and 130°C, preferably between 55°C and 120°C.

[0141] Some crystallizable fats are commonly called waxes.

[0142] The wax(s)

[0143] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises one or more waxes.

[0144] The term "wax" refers to a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid / liquid phase change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30°C, up to 200°C, and in particular up to 120°C. In particular, the wax(s) suitable for the invention may have a melting point greater than or equal to 45°C, and in particular greater than or equal to 55°C.

[0145] For the purposes of this invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of the crystallizable fat can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example, the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by TA Instruments. Such a measurement method is described, for example, in document PCT / EP2013 / 062964.

[0146] Among the crystallizable fats of mineral origin, we can mention: paraffin wax, ozokerite, ceresin and microcrystalline wax.

[0147] Among the crystallizable fatty substances of vegetable origin, the following may be cited: camauba wax, candelilla wax such as that sold under the reference SP 75 G by Strahl & Pitsch, laurel wax, sugar cane wax, ceramide, esparto grass wax, olive wax, rice wax such as that sold under the reference NC 1720 by Cera Rica Noda, sunflower (seed) wax such as that sold by Koster Keunen under the reference sunflower wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated olive oil, hydrogenated cottonseed oil, Polyglyceryl-3 esters of green mimosa, jojoba and sunflower waxes, and absolute flower waxes such as blackcurrant flower essential wax, soy wax, myrica fruit wax.

[0148] Other crystallizable fats of vegetable origin may be cited, such as: Caranday wax, Raffia wax, Colombia wax, Alfa wax, Alfa wax, Alfalfa wax, Bamboo wax, Hemp wax, Douglas fir wax, Cork wax, Sisal wax, Linseed wax, Cotton wax, Dammar wax, Cereal wax, Tea wax, Coffee wax, Ocatilla wax, Palm waxes, Myrica wax, Bayberry wax, Ucuhuba wax, Borneo wax, Malabar wax, Illipe wax and Japanese tallow wax or Japanese wax.

[0149] Among the crystallizable fats of animal origin, we can mention: beeswax or modified beeswax (cerabellina), lanolin and spermaceti.

[0150] The crystallizable fat(s) may also be chosen from long-chain crystallizable alcohols and mixtures thereof, such as cetearyl alcohol (C16 / C18 50 / 50), stearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, C26-C22 alcohols.

[0151] The crystallizable fat(s) may also be selected from long-chain crystallizable esters and mixtures thereof, such as the INCI compound "CETYL ESTERS (and) CETYL ESTERS MIXTURE OF MYRISTYL STEARATE AND MYRISTYLE PALMITATE", or the INCI compound "MIXTURE OF MYRISTYLE STEARATE AND MYRISTYLE PALMITATE", glycol distearate, glycol stearate, cetyl palmitate such as the commercial product ERCAWAX CP V / O from supplier ERCA, isopropyl palmitate, C20-C40 alkyl stearates, long-chain crystallizable esters of glycerol and mixtures thereof, such as, for example, the compound sold under the name COMPRITOL 888 CG ATO from Gattefosse (INCI: GLYCERYL DIBEHENATE (and) TRIBEHENIN (and) GLYCERYL BEHENATE) or each of its components taken separately, glycerol behenic acid triester (INCI: TRIBEHENIN), glycerol hydroxystearic acid triester (INCI: TRIHYDROXYSTEARIN), tricaprine,Trilaurin, trimyristin, tripalmitin, tristearin, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl dipalmitostearate, and linoleoyl polyoxyl-6 glyceride. The crystallizable fat(s) selected from long-chain crystallizable esters and mixtures thereof are preferably selected from esters of glycerol and C12-C24 fatty acids, possibly substituted with a hydroxyl group.

[0152] The crystallizable fat(s) may also be selected from long alkyl chain crystallizable fatty acids and mixtures thereof, such as for example the INCI compound "STEARIC ACID", mixtures of stearic acid and palmitic acid, in particular from C4-C28 saturated fatty acids and C4-C28 unsaturated fatty acids.

[0153] Other crystallizable fats that can be used according to the invention include marine waxes, polyethylene waxes or polyolefin waxes in general, such as α-oligomers of olefins, for example Performa V® 825, 103 and 260 polymers sold by New Phase Technologies, ethylene / propylene copolymers, such as Performalene® EP 700, or Fischer-Tropsch waxes or a mixture of these products.

[0154] Preferably, the crystallizable fat is selected from crystallizable fats of animal or vegetable origin, esters of glycerol and C12-C24 fatty acids optionally substituted with a hydroxy group, and copolymers of sorbitol and C6-C16 difatty acids esterified with C12-C24 fatty acids, preferably from glycerol and behenic acid triester, glycerol and hydroxystearic acid triester, candelilla wax, sunflower wax, beeswax, carnauba wax, mixtures of mono-, di- and triesters obtained from glycerol and behenic acid, and copolymers of sorbitol and sebacic acid esterified with behenic acid, preferably selected from glycerol and behenic acid triester, glycerol and of hydroxystearic acid, and sunflower wax.

[0155] Preferably, the crystallizable fat is present in a content of between 0.01% and 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.1% and 15% by weight, preferably between 0.2% and 12% by weight, preferably between 1% and 10% by weight, preferably between 1% and 9% by weight, preferably between 1% and 8% by weight, advantageously between 1% and 7% by weight, preferably between 1% and 6% by weight, preferably between 1.5% and 5%, preferably between 1.5% and 3% by weight, on the total weight of the composition.

[0156] According to one embodiment, the weight ratio of the quantity of natural resin(s) to the quantity of crystallizable fat(s) is greater than or equal to 0.01, preferably greater than 0.1, preferably greater than 0.5, preferably greater than 0.6, preferably greater than 0.7, preferably greater than 0.8, preferably greater than 0.9, preferably greater than 1, preferably between 0.5 and 100, preferably between 0.6 and 50, preferably between 0.7 and 30, preferably between 0.8 and 30, preferably between 0.9 and 10, preferably between 1 and 9, preferably between 1.1 and 8, preferably between 1.2 and 7, preferably between 1.3 and 6, preferably between 1.5 and 5, preferably between 1.5 and 3.

[0157] POLYGLYCEROL-3 POLYESTER / DIMER ACID / FATTY MONO ACID cl

[0158] The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one polyester which is the reaction product of the following components (i), (ii) and (iii):

[0159] (i) at least one polyglycerol-3;

[0160] (ii) at least one dimeric acid; and

[0161] (iii) at least one fatty acid mono-acid having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms,

[0162] the components (i), (ii) and (iii) reacting being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of dimeric acid and 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of fatty acids.

[0163] The term "polyester" refers to any polymer obtained by the condensation reaction of polycarboxylic acids with alcohols or glycols. Its macromolecular skeleton contains a repeating ester functional group. The ester functional group is a characteristic group formed by an atom bonded simultaneously to an oxygen atom by a double bond and to an alkoxy group. When the bonded atom is a carbon atom, it is called a carboxylic ester, whose general formula is R-COO-R'.

[0164] By "polyglycerol-3" is meant triglycerol alone or a mixture of polyglycerols comprising at least triglycerol; and preferably triglycerol is the major component in said mixture.

[0165] The polyesters of the invention are described together with their synthesis in US patent applications 2021 / 0259945, US 2021 / 0259946 and US 2021 / 0259930 in the name of Nouryon.

[0166] According to a preferred embodiment, polyester is a substantially or totally non-sequential reaction product.

[0167] By "substantially non-sequential reaction product", we mean the product obtained by a substantially non-sequential reaction of the reactive components (i)-(iii).

[0168] By "totally non-sequential reaction of the reactant components (i)-(iii)", it is understood that the total content of each of the reactants (i)-(iii) to be reacted is added to the reaction vessel before starting the reaction.

[0169] In one embodiment of the present invention, the total content of each of the reactants (i)-(iii) to be reacted is added to the reaction vessel before the reaction begins, i.e., the reaction is completely non-sequential, and the polymer is a completely non-sequential reaction product of components (i)-(iii). In other embodiments, 70-100%, or 75-100%, or 80-100%, or 85-100%, or 90-100%, or 95-100%, or 97-100% of each of the reactants (i)-(iii) are added to the reaction vessel before the reaction begins.

[0170] In one embodiment, the polyester is prepared by a one-step process which involves introducing all the reactants into a reaction vessel and then inducing a fully statistical addition of the dimer acid and isostearic acid to polyglycerol-3.

[0171] POLYGLYCEROL-3

[0172] Triglycerol has the formula H-[-OGly]3-OH in which Gly denotes a remainder of glycerol after the removal of two hydroxyl groups.

[0173] A polyglycerol-3 according to the invention, in the form of a mixture of polyglycerols containing at least triglycerol, comprises polyglycerols that may be any oligocondensation product of glycerol. Said polyglycerols preferably conform to the formula (I): H[-O-Gly-]n-OH, in which each Gly is independently the residue of a glycerol molecule after the removal of two hydroxyl groups; and n is an average of 2 to 10.

[0174] Generally, most Gly groups are of the formula: -CH2-CHOH-CH2-, although residues including etherification at the level of secondary or even tertiary hydroxyl groups are considered to be within the framework of "Gly" and, consequently, may also be present.

[0175] Examples of polyglycerol-3 in mixture form include diglycerol, triglycerol, tetraglycerol, pentaglycerol, hexaglycerol, heptaglycerol, octaglycerol, nonaglycerol, decaglycerol, and mixtures thereof. In particular, preferred polyglycerols are those of formula (I) in which n is in particular from 2 to 7, more particularly from 2 to 5, and especially 2, 3, or 4, or mixtures of polyglycerols in these ranges.

[0176] Particularly suitable examples of polyglycerol-3 include a mixture of polyglycerols having the following distribution in which all weight percentages are based with respect to the total weight of polyglycerol-3 as a mixture.

[0177] - glycerol: 0 to 30% by weight, preferably 0 to 20% by weight, preferably between all 0 to 15% by weight;

[0178] - diglycerol: 10 to 40% by weight, preferably 15 to 35% by weight, in a manner preferred above all others, 20 to 32% by weight;

[0179] - triglycerol: 10 to 65% by weight, preferably 15 to 60% by weight, in a manner preferred above all 18 to 55% by weight;

[0180] - tetraglycerol: 2 to 25% by weight, preferably 5 to 20% by weight, in a manner preferred above all others, 8 to 20% by weight;

[0181] - pentaglycerol: 0 to 15% by weight, preferably 0 to 10% by weight, in a manner preferred above all 0 to 5% by weight;

[0182] - hexaglycerol: 0 to 15% by weight, preferably 0 to 10% by weight, in a manner preferred above all 0 to 5% by weight;

[0183] - heptaglycerol: 0 to 10% by weight, preferably 0 to 5% by weight, in a manner preferred above all 0 to 3% by weight;

[0184] - octaglycerol: 0 to 10% by weight, preferably 0 to 5% by weight, in a manner preferred above all 0 to 3% by weight;

[0185] - nonaglycerol: 0 to 5% by weight, preferably 0 to 3% by weight, in a manner preferred above all 0 to 2% by weight;

[0186] - decaglycerol: 0 to 5% by weight, preferably 0 to 3% by weight, in a manner preferred above all, 0 to 2% by weight.

[0187] In one embodiment, a polyglycerol-3 in mixture form comprises the following polyglycerol distribution:

[0188] Glycerol: 0 to 30% by weight;

[0189] Diglycerol: 15 to 40% by weight;

[0190] Triglycerol: 10 to 55% by weight;

[0191] Tetraglycerol: 2 to 25% by weight;

[0192] Pentaglycerol and higher components: 0 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of polyglycerol-3 as a mixture.

[0193] In one embodiment, a polyglycerol-3 in mixture form is composed of at least 40% by weight, or at least 45% by weight, or at least 50% by weight, of a combination of diglycerol and triglycerol relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in mixture form.

[0194] In one embodiment, a polyglycerol-3 is composed of at least 20% by weight, or at least 25% by weight of diglycerol; at least 15% by weight, or at least 18% by weight of triglycerol; at least 10% by weight, or at least 12% by weight of tetraglycerol; wherein all the weight percentages are relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in mixture form.

[0195] A particularly preferred polyglycerol-3 comprises at least 25% by weight of diglycerol, at least 45% by weight of triglycerol and at least 10% by weight of tetraglycerol relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in mixture form.

[0196] Analysis of such a polyglycerol-3 composition can be performed to determine its median or "mean" polyglycerol number. The examples of polyglycerols above with narrow and broad distributions can also be designated as polyglycerol-3, since this is the integer closest to the mean and / or median.

[0197] ACID DIMERE

[0198] The dimeric acid can be any dicarboxylic acid having at least 4 carbon atoms. They can be linear or branched, such as for example the dimers prepared from malonic acid, succinic acid, fumaric acid, dimethylglutaric acid or trimethyladipic acid, and their anhydrides.

[0199] Dimeric fatty acids are particularly useful. As is known, they are mixtures of acyclic and cyclic dicarboxylic acids obtained by a catalyzed dimerization reaction of unsaturated fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0200] For the preparation and use of dimer acids and their physical and chemical properties, see the publication "The Dimer Acids: The Chemical and physical properties, reactions and applications", Ed. EC Leonard; Humko Sheffield Chemical, 1975, Memphis, Tenn.

[0201] Dicarboxylic acids may also contain, to a lesser extent, tri- and polyfunctional carboxylic acids. The functionality of the mixture must not exceed an average molar value of 2.4.

[0202] Preferred dimeric acids are typically derived from triglycerides rich in Cl8 ester groups, which can be hydrolyzed to produce C18 unsaturated mono-fatty acids. Raw materials can be derived from tallow oil and rapeseed oil, but other natural sources such as flaxseed, soybeans, pumpkin seeds, and walnuts can be used. The target mono-acids used in the reaction are rich in the forms of oleic and linoleic acids described in the fatty acid list below. Dimerization leads mainly to the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids, but trimers are also formed. After the reaction, the product can be stored as a mixture of reaction products or it can be further distilled or otherwise separated into molecular weight fractions.In one embodiment, the dimerization reaction produces a majority (at least 60% by weight, more preferably at least 75% by weight) of dimeric acid (C36 diacid) but also produces C54 trimer acids (less than 30% by weight, more preferably less than 25% by weight).

[0203] In one case, a standard dimeric acid commercially available from Croda, Pripol 1025®, is used, which contains 72% by weight of dimer and 19% by weight of trimer acid.

[0204] In another case, a hydrogenated standard dimeric acid from Oleon, Radiacid 0960®, is used, which contains 87 wt% dimer and 10 wt% trimeric acid. In both cases, the polymer as described is characterized by a higher molecular weight, greater hydrophobicity, and higher viscosity than can be provided by pure diacids of lower molecular weight. The presence of trimeric acid further improves the molecular weight and performance of these polymers.

[0205] In one embodiment, the copolymer of the present invention is prepared from at least one hydrogenated dimeric acid.

[0206] In another embodiment, the polymer is prepared from a hydrogenated dimeric acid comprising hydrogenated dimerized C18 fatty acids, which hydrogenated dimeric acid is obtained by dimerization of unsaturated Cl8 fatty acids and subsequent hydrogenation.

[0207] In one embodiment, the hydrogenated dimer acid contains a trimer acid content ranging from about 5 to 25% by weight, based on a total weight of hydrogenated dimer acid.

[0208] In another embodiment, the hydrogenated dimer acid contains a majority (at least 60% by weight, more preferably at least 75% by weight, but at most 95% by weight, or better still at most 90% by weight, or even better at most 85% by weight) of hydrogenated dimer acid (C36 diacid) and also contains hydrogenated C54 trimer acids (less than 30% by weight, more preferably less than 25% by weight, but more than 5% by weight, more preferably more than 10% by weight).

[0209] MONO FATTY ACID

[0210] C8-C30 mono-fatty acids can include natural or refined fatty acids, such as hydrolyzed rapeseed oil, sunflower oils, etc., but these contain both lower and higher molecular weight chains. Useful mono-fatty acids can be linear, branched, saturated, unsaturated, and aromatic materials with acidity provided by carboxylic acid fractions.

[0211] Acids suitable for the invention include caprylic acid (C8), pelargonic acid (C9), capric acid (C10), undecylic acid (C11), lauric acid (C12), tridecylic acid (C13), myristic acid (C14), pentadecylic acid (C15), palmitic acid (C16), margaric acid (C17), stearic acid (C18), isostearic acid (C18), nonadecyl acid (C19), arachidic acid (C20), behenic acid (C22) and lignoceric acid (C24).

[0212] Comparison of stearic and isostearic acids shows that branching leads to a high melting point and results in low viscosity at room temperature for isostearic acid, compared to a solid material for stearic acid. This lower viscosity can be useful in handling raw materials and also to allow esters made with this acid to retain their liquid properties. Branched-chain fatty acids often contain a single methyl branch along the linear carbon chain and are produced in nature by microbial action. Isotearic acid is available as a reaction byproduct in the creation of the dimeric acid described above.

[0213] Another way to obtain a liquid product is to use linear and branched unsaturated monoacids. These unsaturated acids may include palmitoleic acid (C16:1), vaccenic acid (C18:1), oleic acid (C18:1), elaidic acid (C18:1), linoleic acid (C18:2), linolelaidic acid (C18:2), α-linolenic acid (C18:3), α-linolenic acid (C18:3), stearidonic acid (C18:4), paullinic acid (C20:1), gondolic acid (C20:1), dihomo-α-linolenic acid (C20:3), mead acid (C20:3), arachidonic acid (C20:4), eicosapentaenoic acid (C20:5), erucic acid (C22:1), acid docosatetraenoic (C22:4), cervonic acid (C22:6) and nervonic acid (C24:1). As is well known to those skilled in the art, the designation means that the length of the carbon chain is X carbon atoms; and there are Y double bonds in the chain.

[0214] In one embodiment, isostearic acid will be preferred.

[0215] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the polyester of the invention is a substantially or totally non-sequential reaction product of the following components:

[0216] (i) at least one polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture comprising at least 25% in weight of diglycerol, at least 45% by weight of triglycerol and at least 10% by weight of tetraglycerol, relative to the total weight of polyglycerol-3 in mixture form;

[0217] (ii) at least one hydrogenated dimeric acid containing at least 60% by weight of hydrogenated C36 diacid and 5 to 25% by weight of hydrogenated C54 triacid, in each case relative to the total weight of hydrogenated acid; and

[0218] iii) isostearic acid.

[0219] In one embodiment, the polyester is prepared by a one-step process which involves introducing all the reactants into a reaction vessel and then inducing a fully statistical addition of the dimer acid and isostearic acid to polyglycerol-3.

[0220] In one embodiment, it is preferable to have a total degree of esterification of the available polyglycerol hydroxyl fragments (total esterification) of 24% to 74% and a degree of esterification of the available polyglycerol hydroxyl fragments by a dimer acid alone (esterification with a dimer acid) of 20% to 40%. Most importantly, the degree of esterification by the end-cap units (esterification with a monoacid) is also defined in this description, and it is important to maintain the esterification with a monoacid of 4% to 40%.

[0221] It is preferable to have a total esterification of 28% to 57% with an esterification with a dimeric acid of 20% to 30% and an esterification with a monoacid between 8% and 27%.

[0222] It is even more preferable to have a total esterification of 33% to 48% with an esterification with a dimeric acid of 20% to 28% and an esterification with a monoacid between 13% and 20%.

[0223] It is even more preferable to have a total esterification of 24% to 74% with an esterification with a hydrogenated dimeric acid of 20% to 40% and an esterification with a monoacid between 4% and 40%.

[0224] It is even more preferable to have a total esterification of 28% to 57% with an esterification with a hydrogenated dimeric acid of 20% to 30% and an esterification with a monoacid between 8% and 27%.

[0225] It is also even more preferable to have a total esterification of about 40% with an esterification with a hydrogenated dimeric acid of about 20% and an esterification with a monoacid of about 20%.

[0226] It is also even more preferable to have also most preferred a total esterification of about 40% with an esterification with a hydrogenated dimeric acid of about 27% and an esterification with a monoacid of about 13%.

[0227] In one embodiment, the components to be reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and 0.2 to 1.7 mole of fatty acid.

[0228] In another embodiment, the components to be reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.75 mole of dimer acid and 0.4 to 1.35 mole of isostearic acid.

[0229] In another embodiment, the components to be reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.7 mole of dimer acid and 0.65 to 1 mole of isostearic acid.

[0230] In another embodiment, the components to be reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.2 to 1.7 mole of isostearic acid.

[0231] In another embodiment, the components to be reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.75 mole of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.4 to 1.35 mole of isostearic acid.

[0232] In another embodiment, the components to be reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.7 mole of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.65 to 1 mole of isostearic acid.

[0233] In another embodiment, the components to be reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.2 to 1.7 mole of isostearic acid.

[0234] In another embodiment, the components to be reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.75 mole of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.4 to 1.35 mole of isostearic acid.

[0235] In another embodiment, the components to be reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.7 mole of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.65 to 1 mole of isostearic acid.

[0236] In another embodiment, the components to be reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.67 mole of hydrogenated C36 dimer acid and 0.67 mole of isostearic acid.

[0237] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the components to be reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 mole of hydrogenated C36 dimer acid and 1 mole of isostearic acid.

[0238] By adjusting the molar ratio of fatty acid termination and balancing the amount of polyglycerol-3 and dimer acid, it is also possible to control the degree of dimer-polyglycerol extension and termination so that crosslinking, for example, via the acid trimer, leads to much higher viscosities.

[0239] The target viscosity of the pure polymer must be > 50,000 mPa.s and less than 5,000,000 mPa.s at 25 °C.

[0240] In a preferred embodiment, the target viscosity is > 75,000 mPa.s and

[0241] < 2,500,000 mPa.s at 25°C.

[0242] In another preferred embodiment, the target viscosity is > 100,000 mPa.s and < 2,000,000 mPa.s at 25°C.

[0243] In a preferred embodiment of all, the target viscosity is > 1,000,000 mPa.s and < 2,000,000 mPa.s at 25°C.

[0244] Viscosity is measured using an MCR3O2® rheometer from Anton Paar Inc. Twin flat plates, either rough or smooth, 50 mm in diameter, were used, coated with a polymer sample, fitted with a gap of 0.5 to 1 mm, and temperature and shear rate scans were performed. The polyesters of the invention exhibit Newtonian behavior and therefore have a constant viscosity over a wide range of shear rates. Furthermore, the polymers described have demonstrated a viscosity that decreases with temperature. Thus, viscosity measurements are reported at a precisely controlled temperature and generally in the form of a shear rate of 1. Values ​​are reported in mPa·s.

[0245] The polyesters of the invention are characterized by average molecular masses by weight > 2500 Da and < 1,000,000 Da measured by GPC using linear polystyrene standards.

[0246] The GPC column used for these tests consisted of: Phenolgel, 300 x 4.6 mm; a continuous phase of tetrahydrofuran (THF) was used and injected at 0.35 mL / min, column oven maintained at 40°C; a 50 pL injection; and a Wyatt Ri refractive index detector. The calibration standards used were strictly linear polystyrene intended for monodisperse application. The narrow-range polystyrene GPC calibration standards were prepared in mobile phase and had maximum molecular weights of 1,290,000 Da; 560,000 Da; 65,500 Da; 28,500 Da; 10,100 Da; 1,680 Da; 580 Da; and 208 Da. Using standard methodologies, the mass The average molecular weight and number is automatically calculated by standard GPC software.

[0247] In a preferred embodiment, the described polyesters have a weight-average molecular weight > 4,000 Da and < 250,000 Da measured by GPC using linear polystyrene standards. In a preferred embodiment of all, the described polymers have a weight-average molecular weight > 5,000 Da and < 150,000 Da measured by GPC using linear polystyrene standards.

[0248] In yet another embodiment, the polyester of the invention has a combination of average molecular mass by weight > 5000 Da and < 150,000 Da measured by GPC using linear polystyrene standards and viscosity at 25°C > 100,000 mPa.s and < 2,000,000 mPa.s.

[0249] In a preferred embodiment, the polyester of the invention is a substantially or completely non-sequential reaction product of the following components:

[0250] (i) at least one polyglycerol-3 comprising at least 25% by weight of diglycerol, at less 45% by weight of triglycerol and at least 10% by weight of tetraglycerol, in each case relative to the total weight of polyglycerol-3 in mixture form;

[0251] (ii) at least one hydrogenated dimeric acid containing at least 60% by weight of hydrogenated C36 diacid and 5 to 25% by weight of hydrogenated C54 triacid, in each case relative to the total weight of hydrogenated acid; and

[0252] (iii) isostearic acid; wherein the polymer has a weight average molecular weight combination > 5,000 Da and < 15,000 Da measured with GPC using linear polystyrene standards and a viscosity of the pure polymer > 100,000 mPa.s and < 2,000,000 mPa.s at 25°C; and wherein the copolymer is also characterized by a total esterification of about 40%, an esterification with a hydrogenated dimeric acid of about 27% and an esterification with a monoacid of about 13%.

[0253] In practice, since the crude ingredients contain a range of polyglycerol units and a range of dimer and trimer acid contents, the above numbers can be adjusted using the actual (not theoretical) hydroxyl and carboxylic acid fractions as determined by methods such as mass spectrometry, NMR, and liquid chromatography. The esterification ranges above are based on the ideal structure of polyglycerol-3 and the C36 dimer acid. The actual ranges may therefore differ slightly from the values ​​given above and can be calculated on the basis of these analytical values.

[0254] It is more practical to define the extent of polymerization by the final acid value. The initial acid values, in light of the distribution of the polyglycerol fractions, Monoacids and polyacids present can be reliably calculated using the actual acid value determined by the raw ingredient used.

[0255] For example, the initial total acid number ("AV," which is commonly defined as mg KOH / g of total reagent) is 135 AV. This includes 68 AV for the dimer acid and 67 AV for the isostearic acid for a preferred embodiment containing 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 mole of hydrogenated C36 dimer acid, and 1 mole of isostearic acid. All preferred ratio embodiments described above have a corresponding initial AV that can be calculated. When, during the polymerization reaction, the AV units are reduced, this ratio gives the percentage conversion of the reaction from the total initial reactive acid fractions to the final residual acid fractions.

[0256] Thus, the completion rate of the reaction is defined by 1 - final AV / initial AV.

[0257] In one embodiment, the polyesters of the invention have acid indices final concentrations of 0.1 to < 25 mg of KOH / g of polymer.

[0258] In a preferred embodiment, the polyesters of the invention have final acid indices of 0.1 to < 10 mg KOH / g of polymer.

[0259] In a preferred embodiment, the polyesters of the invention have final acid indices of 0.1 to < 5 mg KOH / g of polymer.

[0260] The completion rate of the reaction being defined by the equation 1- final AV / initial AV, the completion rate of the reaction of such mixtures in final polymer is > 80%.

[0261] In a preferred embodiment, the completion rate of the reaction of such mixtures into the final polymer is > 90%.

[0262] In a preferred embodiment, the completion rate of the reaction of such mixtures into the final polymer is > 95%.

[0263] In a preferred embodiment, the polyester of the invention is a reaction product of a polyglycerol-3, a C36 hydrogenated dimeric acid and isostearic acid in a molar ratio of 1 / 0.5 / 1 as described in Example 10 (copolymer) of US document 2021 / 0259945.

[0264] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one oily solution comprising:

[0265] a) at least one polyester which is the reaction product of the following components (i), (ii) and (iii):

[0266] (i) at least one polyglycerol-3;

[0267] (ii) at least one dimeric acid; and

[0268] (iii) at least one mono-fatty acid having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the reacting components (i), (ii) and (iii) being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol, 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and from 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of fatty acids; and

[0269] b) at least one non-volatile oil.

[0270] Said non-volatile oil or oils may be chosen from those which will be described later.

[0271] According to an advantageous embodiment, the oily solution comprises, as non-volatile oil(s), at least one fatty acid triglyceride containing 4 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and more particularly a caprylic / capric acid triglyceride (INCI name: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride).

[0272] The polyester oil solution can be obtained by mixing polyester with non-volatile oil or oils at approximately 80-100°C. The mixture is then further cooled to 50-70°C before being removed from the reactor and stored.

[0273] Said polyester oil solution preferably contains polyester at a concentration of 10 to 99% by weight, more preferably 30 to 90% by weight, more particularly 50 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture.

[0274] According to a preferred embodiment, the oily solution comprises 40% by weight of caprylic / capric acid triglyceride and 60% by weight of polyglycerol-3 polyester, C36 hydrogenated dimer acid and isostearic acid relative to the total weight of the oily solution in a molar ratio of 1 / 0.5 / 1 as described in Example 10 (copolymer) and Example 28 (oily mixture) of US document 2021 / 0259945.

[0275] According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises an oily solution comprising:

[0276] a) a polyester obtained by reaction

[0277] (i) of a polyglycerol-3, and

[0278] (ii) of a C36 hydrogenated acid dimer; and

[0279] (iii) isostearic acid;

[0280] components (i), (ii) and (iii) reacted being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol, 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of fatty acids; and

[0281] b) a caprylic / capric acid triglyceride; said mixture having the INCI name: Diisostearoyl PolyglyceryL3 Dimer Dilinoleate (and) Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride.

[0282] Such an oily solution is marketed under the name Solamaze Natural® by the company Nouryon comprising 60% by weight of polyester active matter and 40% by weight of a caprylic / capric acid triglyceride relative to the total weight of the oily solution.

[0283] According to a preferred embodiment, the amount of active polyester material represents from 0.2 to 30%, preferably from 0.3% to 25%, preferably from 0.5% to 22%, preferably from 1% to 20%, or even from 1.5% to 20%, or even from 2 to 18%, preferably from 2.5 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 3 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Pigment coloring materials d)

[0284] The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one pigmentary coloring material. For the purposes of the present invention, the pigmentary coloring material is selected from powdered coloring materials such as mineral pigments, mother-of-pearl, organic pigments, and also includes inorganic UV filters, as defined below.

[0285] The term “pigments” means white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous medium, intended to color the composition and / or the resulting deposit.

[0286] The coloring matter may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.5% to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1% to 60% by weight, preferably from 2% to 50% by weight, preferably from 3% to 45% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, preferably from 4% to 30% by weight, preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 6% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition representing 100%. Preferably, the pigment coloring matter is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 60% by weight, preferably from 1% to 40% by weight, and even more preferably from 1.5% to 30% by weight, or even from 2% to 25% and better from 3% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Mineral pigments

[0287] According to a particular embodiment, the pigments used according to the invention are chosen from mineral pigments.

[0288] By "mineral pigment" is meant any pigment that meets the definition in the Ullmann Encyclopedia in the chapter on inorganic pigment. Examples of mineral pigments useful in the present invention include zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as zinc oxides, iron oxides (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, metallic powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder, mother-of-pearl, monochromatic pigments; and mixtures thereof.

[0289] The following mineral pigments can also be used: Ta2O5, Ti3O5, Ti2O3, TiO, ZrO2 in mixture with TiO2, ZrO2, Nb2O5, CeO2, ZnS.

[0290] The size of the pigment useful within the scope of the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and can be up to 10 pm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 pm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 pm. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments have a size characterized by a greater D

[50] . The particle sizes are measured at 100 nm and up to 10 µm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 µm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 µm. Sizes are measured by static light scattering using a commercial Malvern MasterSizer 3000® particle size analyzer, allowing for the determination of the particle size distribution across a wide range from 0.01 µm to 1000 µm. The data are processed based on the classical Mie scattering theory. This theory is best suited for size distributions ranging from submicron to multimicron and allows for the determination of an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is notably described in the work of Van de Hulst, HC, "Light Scattering by Small Particles", Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957. D

[50] represents the maximum size that 50% of the particles have by volume.

[0291] In the context of the present invention, the mineral pigments are more particularly iron oxide and / or titanium dioxide.

[0292] The pigment(s) usable in a composition according to the invention can be chosen respectively from coated pigment(s), uncoated pigment(s), and their mixtures.

[0293] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one uncoated pigment.

[0294] According to an alternative embodiment of the invention, or according to a complementary embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one coated pigment.

[0295] According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the mineral pigment comprises a lipophilic or hydrophobic coating. The latter is preferably present in the oily phase of the composition according to the invention.

[0296] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments can be coated with at least one compound selected from: metallic soaps; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.

[0297] According to a preferred embodiment, the pigments can be coated according to the invention with an N-acylated amino acid or one of its salts which can include an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as for example a 2-ethyl hexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, cocoyl group.

[0298] The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid, or alanine. The salts of these compounds may be aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium, or potassium salts. Thus, according to a particularly preferred embodiment, the pigments may be coated with an N-acylated amino acid derivative, which may be, in particular, a glutamic acid derivative and / or One of its salts, and more specifically a stearoyl glutamate, such as aluminum stearoyl glutamate. Examples of pigments treated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate include titanium dioxide pigments and the iron oxide pigments black CI77499, red CI77491 and yellow CI77492 sold under the trade name NAI® by the company MIYOSHI KASEI.

[0299] According to a particular embodiment, the pigments can be coated according to the invention with isopropyl titanium triisostearyl titanate. Examples of pigments treated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate (ITT) include titanium dioxide pigments and black, red and yellow iron oxide pigments sold under the trade names BWB0-I2® (Iron Oxide CI77499 and Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate), BWY0-I2® (Iron Oxide CI77492 and Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate) and BWR0-I2® (Iron Oxide CI77491 and Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate) by KOBO.

[0300] As mineral pigments that can be used in the invention, nacres can also be mentioned.

[0301] By “mother-of-pearl”, one must understand colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular, produced by certain molluscs in their shell or synthesized and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference.

[0302] Mother-of-pearl pigments may be selected from pearlescent pigments, such as titanium mica coated with iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye, and bismuth oxychloride-based pearlescent pigments. They may also consist of mica particles on the surface of which at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic coloring materials are superimposed. Natural mica coated with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigment, or bismuth oxychloride may also be cited as examples of mother-of-pearl pigments. More specifically, mother-of-pearl pigments may have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold, and / or copper color or sheen.

[0303] Among the pigments that can be used according to the invention, we can also mention those with an optical effect different from a simple conventional tint effect, that is to say unified and stabilized such as produced by classic coloring materials, such as monochromatic pigments. For the purposes of this invention, "stabilized" means free from color variability with the viewing angle or in response to temperature changes. For example, this material can be chosen from metallic-reflecting particles, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffracting pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brighteners, and, in particular, interference fibers. Of course, these different materials can be combined with in order to provide the simultaneous manifestation of two effects, or even a new effect in accordance with the invention. Organic pigments

[0304] According to another embodiment of the invention, the pigment colouring material is an organic, synthetic, natural or naturally derived pigment.

[0305] By "organic pigment" is meant any pigment that meets the definition in the Ullmann Encyclopedia in the chapter on organic pigment. The organic pigment may in particular be chosen from the compounds nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, of the metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone; and mixtures thereof.

[0306] The organic pigment(s) may be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the green pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 15510, 45370, 71105, red pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, and pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole derivatives,phenolic compounds as described in French patent FR 2 679 771.

[0307] The pigments can also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments can be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core covered at least partially with an organic pigment and at least one binder ensuring the fixation of the organic pigments on the core.

[0308] The pigment can also be a lacquer.

[0309] By "lacquer" is meant insolubilized dyes adsorbed onto insoluble particles, the whole thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.

[0310] The inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminium borosilicate, and aluminium.

[0311] Among organic colorants, cochineal carmine may be mentioned. Other products known by the following names may also be mentioned: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 1 O (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Bine 1 (CI 42 090).

[0312] Examples of lacquers include the product known as D&C Red 7 (CI 15 850 :1).

[0313] Photoprotection pigments or inorganic UV filters

[0314] The pigments used according to the present invention can also be photoprotection pigments. These are metal oxide pigments that form inorganic UV filters.

[0315] More preferably, the inorganic UV filters of the invention are metal oxide particles having an average elementary particle size less than or equal to 0.5 pm, more preferably between 0.005 and 0.5 pm, and even more preferably between 0.01 and 0.2 pm, even better between 0.01 and 0.1 pm, and more particularly between 0.015 and 0.05 pm. They are described in particular in Annex VI, updated on 22 / 09 / 2021, of European Cosmetics Regulation No. 1223 / 2009, but are not limited to this list.

[0316] They may be chosen in particular from titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, cerium oxides or mixtures thereof.

[0317] Such metallic oxide pigments, coated or uncoated, are described in particular in patent application EP-A-0 518 773. As commercial pigments, mention may be made of the products sold by the companies CRODA, TAYCA, and MERCK.

[0318] Metal oxide pigments may be coated or uncoated. Coated pigments are pigments that have undergone one or more surface treatments of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and / or mechanical nature with compounds such as amino acids, wax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts, fatty acids, metal alkoxides (titanium or aluminum), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.The coated pigments are more specifically titanium oxides coated with: hydrated silica such as the product "MT-100WP" from TAYCA, silica and iron oxide such as the product "SUNVEIL F®" from IKEDA, silica and alumina such as the products "MT-500SA®" and "MT-100SA®" from TAYCA, "TIOVEIL™ AQ-N" from CRODA, alumina such as the products "TTO-55 (A)®" from ISHIHARA, alumina and aluminum stearate such as the products "MT-100TV®, MT100Z®, MT-01®" from TAYCA, the . the product "Solaveil™ CT100" from CRODA and the product "Eusolex T-AVO®" from MERCK, of silica, alumina and alginic acid such as the product "MT-100AQ®" from TAYCA, of alumina and aluminum laurate, iron oxide and iron stearate, zinc oxide and zinc stearate, silica and alumina and treated with silicone such as the products "MTY500SAS®" or "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT-100SAS®" from TAYCA, of silica, alumina, aluminum stearate and treated with silicone,

[0319] - of silica and treated with a silicone, of alumina and treated with a silicone such that the "TTO-55(S)®" products from ISHIHARA, triethanolamine, stearic acid such as the "TTO-55(C)®" product from ISHIHARA, sodium hexametaphosphate, TiO2 treated with octyl trimethylsiloxane, TiO2 treated with polydimethylsiloxane, TiO2 anatase / rutile treated with polydimethylhydrogensiloxane, TiO2 coated with triethylhexanoin, aluminum stearate, alumina sold under the trade name "Solaveil™ CT-200" from CRODA, TiO2 coated with aluminum stearate, alumina and silicone sold under the trade name "Solaveil™ CT-12W" from CRODA, TiO2 coated with lauroyl lysine, TiO2 coated with C9-C15 fluoroalcohol phosphate and aluminium hydroxide.

[0320] We can also mention TiO2 pigments doped with at least one transition metal such as iron, zinc, manganese, and more particularly manganese.

[0321] Preferably, said doped pigments are in the form of an oily dispersion. The oil present in the oily dispersion is preferably selected from triglycerides, including those of capric / caprylic acids. The oily dispersion of titanium dioxide particles may further comprise one or more dispersing agents, such as, for example, a sorbitan ester like sorbitan isostearate, a polyoxyalkylated fatty acid and glycerol ester like TRLPPG3 MYRISTYLETHER CITRATE and POLYGLYCERYL-3 POLYRICINOLEATE. Preferably, the oily dispersion of titanium dioxide particles comprises at least one dispersing agent selected from polyoxyalkylated fatty acid and glycerol esters.One can cite in particular the oily dispersion of manganese-doped TiO2 particles in capric / caprylic acid triglyceride in the presence of TRI-PPG-3 MYRISTYLETHER CITRATE and POLYGLYCERYL-3-POLYRICINOLEATE and SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE, INCI name: TITANIUM DIOXIDE (and) TRL PPG-3 MYRISTYLETHER CITRATE (and) POLYGLYCERYL-3 RICINOLEATE (and) SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE, as the product sold under the trade name "OPTISOL™ OTP-1" by the company CRODA.

[0322] Uncoated titanium oxide pigments are for example sold by the company TAYCA under the trade names "MT-500B" or "MT-600B®", by the company Evonik under the name "DEGUSSA P 25".

[0323] Uncoated zinc oxide pigments include, for example: those marketed under the name "Z-COTE®" by BASF; those marketed under the name "NanoArc® Zinc Oxide" by Nanophase Technologies. Coated zinc oxide pigments include, for example: ZnO coated with polymethylhydrogenesiloxane; "Solaveil™ CZ-100" from CRODA dispersed in Cl2-15 alkyl benzoate (INCI: Zinc Oxide (and) Cl2-15 Alkyl Benzoate (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Isostearic Acid); Those marketed under the name "DAITOPERSION Zn-60VA®" by Daito Kasei (dispersions in C9-12 alkane with a dispersing agent), and those marketed under the name "SPD-Z5®" by Shin-Etsu (ZnO coated with silicone-grafted acrylic polymer, dispersed in cyclodimethylsiloxane). Uncoated cerium oxide pigments may include, for example, those sold under the name RHODIGARD® W185 by Solvay.

[0324] We can also mention mixtures of metal oxides, in particular titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide, including the equal weight mixture of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide coated with silica, as well as the mixture of titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide coated with alumina, silica and silicone or coated with alumina, silica and glycerin.

[0325] According to the invention, titanium oxide pigments, coated or uncoated, are particularly preferred.

[0326] Inorganic UV filters can be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 60% by weight, preferably from 1% to 40% by weight, and even more preferably from 1.5% to 30% by weight, or even from 2% to 25% and better from 3% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0327] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one pigment colouring material chosen from mineral pigments, preferably from titanium dioxide, iron oxides, zirconium or cerium oxides, zinc or chromium oxides and mixtures thereof, preferably the pigment is chosen from titanium dioxide, iron oxides and mixtures thereof. CHARGES

[0328] The composition according to the invention may also include at least one filler.

[0329] By "fillers" is meant particles of any shape, colorless or white, mineral or synthetic, insoluble and dispersed in the medium of the composition regardless of the temperature at which the composition is manufactured. In general, the fillers included in the compositions according to the invention are not pigmentary coloring materials.

[0330] The fillers can be inorganic or organic.

[0331] Preferably, they are chosen from natural or naturally sourced fillers.

[0332] By “natural charge” or “natural compound” is meant a compound that one obtains directly from the earth or soil, or from plants or animals, via, where appropriate, one or more physical processes, such as grinding, refining, distillation, purification or filtration.

[0333] The term “naturally sourced filler” or “naturally sourced compound” means a natural compound that has undergone one or more additional chemical or industrial treatments, resulting in modifications that do not affect the essential qualities of that compound, and / or a compound consisting mainly of natural constituents that may or may not have undergone transformations. As a non-limiting example of ancillary chemical or industrial treatments that result in modifications that do not affect the essential qualities of a natural compound, one may mention those authorized by control bodies such as Ecocert (Reference Guide for Organic and Ecological Cosmetic Products, January 2003) or defined in recognized manuals in the field, such as “Cosmetics and Tissue Magazine”, 2005, vol. 120, 9: 10.

[0334] The charge particles usable within the framework of the invention preferably have an average size (d(50) in volume) less than or equal to 40 pm, preferably ranging from 1 to 20 pm, even more preferably from 2 to 15 pm.

[0335] Particle sizes can be measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyzer such as the Malvem MasterSizer 2000. The data are processed based on Mie scattering theory. This theory, accurate for isotropic particles, allows the determination of an "effective" particle diameter in the case of non-spherical particles. This theory is described in particular in Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles," Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0336] The fillers used in the compositions according to the present invention may be of lamellar or platelet, globular, spherical, fibrous or any other intermediate form between these defined forms.

[0337] More specifically, the term "lamellar shape" or "platelet shape" refers to particles whose shape is characterized by three dimensions: a length, a width, and a height (also called thickness); the length and width being greater than the thickness. More specifically, the ratio of the largest dimension of the lamella / platelet to the height (or thickness) of the lamella / platelet is greater than or equal to 5. For the purposes of the present invention, the "largest dimension" of the lamellae or platelets means the diameter of the sphere in which The said slide or plate is inscribed. The dimensions of the particles are evaluated by scanning electron microscopy and image analysis.

[0338] For the purposes of this invention, spherical particles are defined as particles having an average circularity parameter of at least 0.80, preferably at least 0.82, and even more preferably at least 0.9. The circularity parameter is defined as the ratio of the circumference of a disk having the same area as the particle to the particle's perimeter. A value of 1 characterizes perfectly spherical particles.

[0339] The "average circularity" can be determined by an image analysis method. In particular, the "average circularity" can be an arithmetic mean of circularity obtained by image analysis of a scanning electron microscope (SEM) image of not less than 2000 silica particles, observed at a magnification of 1000 by secondary electron detection using a scanning electron microscope (SEM).

[0340] The "circularity" of each silica particle is a value determined by the following formula: C = 4irS / L², where C represents a circularity, S represents an area (projected area) of the particle in the image, and L represents a length of a periphery (perimeter) of the silica particle in the image. As the average circularity approaches 1, the shape of each particle becomes more spherical.

[0341] The fillers may or may not be surface coated, and, in particular, they may be surface treated with amino acids or any other substance promoting the dispersion and compatibility of the filler in the composition. MINERAL CHARGES

[0342] Examples of mineral fillers include, alone or in mixtures, talcs, natural or synthetic micas such as synthetic fluorphlogopites, silica, unmodified clays, such as smectites, and preferably unmodified hectorite, diatomaceous earth, kaolin, kaolin and halloysite, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, perlite, bismuth oxychloride, barium sulfate possibly combined with lauroyl lysine, silica combined with lauroyl lysine, glass microcapsules, borosilicates or ceramics, silica and titanium dioxide composites, such as the TSG® series marketed by Nippon Sheet Glass.

[0343] With regard to natural micas, examples include products marketed under the names Sericite by SL Horie Kako; Mearlmica-SV by Sun Chemicals; and Sumicos Velvet by Sudarshan Chemical. With regard to synthetic micas, suitable products include those marketed under the names Synafil S 1050 by Exckart and NHS-S-100 by Myoshi Kasei. (INCI name: Mica (and) Isostearyl Sebacate (and) Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate (and) Aluminum Hydroxide).

[0344] As an example of unmodified clay and more particularly of unmodified hectorite, one may cite in particular that marketed by Elementis under the name Bentone EW or Hydroclay 2000 LO.

[0345] Among suitable diatomaceous earths, we can mention the products of the ImerCare D range from the company Imerys, for example ImerCare03D, ImerCareOôD, ImerCare 400D, ImerCare Vistalskin.

[0346] By way of examples of silica, preferably amorphous, preferably in spherical form, hollow or not, the following commercial products may be used: Silica 35 Beads SB-150®, SB-300® or SB 700®, preferably SB 300® from Myoshi Kasei; the Sunsphere® range from Asahi Glass AGC SLTECH, in particular Sunsphere H-51® or Sunsphere 12L®, Sunsphere H-201®, H-52 and H-53; Sunsil 130 8® from Sunjin; Spherica P-1500® from Ikeda Corporation; Sylosphere® from Fuji Silysia; the Silica Pearl® and Satinier® ranges from JGC Catalysts and Chemicals, more specifically the Satinier Ml3® and Satinier Ml6 silicas, the MSS-500® silicas from KOBO, and more specifically the MSS-500-20N®, as well as the Silica Shells® from KOBO, and the BA4 silicas from JGC Catalysts and Chemicals.

[0347] Examples of talc include J 68 BC® products marketed by US Cosmetics; Imercare Pharma 00T® by Imerys; kaolin includes Imercare 04K®, Suprême® by Imerys; the product sold under the trade name Beraca Amazonian White Clay® by Beraca ingr. Naturais (Clariant); the product sold under the trade name FJK-16 ® by Fuji Fine Chemical.

[0348] With regard to boron nitride, the following commercial products can be cited: Ronaflair Boroneige SQ-6 ® sold by Merck, SP2® and SP8® sold by Saint Gobain Ceramics, Softouch Boron Nitride CC6657®, CC6058®, CC6059® sold by Momentive Performance Materials, and their mixtures.

[0349] As an example of perlite, in non-expanded or expanded form (i.e.: Expanded Milled Perlite (EMP); for example obtained according to US patent 5,002,698), one can cite the perlite sold by the company Miyoshi Kasei under the trade name Perlite-M SZ12®.

[0350] Among glass particles, mention can be made of the product P2015SL® marketed by the company Prizmalite (INCI name: Glass Beads). Also mention can be made of hollow microspheres of Calcium Aluminium Borosilicate (INCI name) such as the commercial product Luxsil Cosmetic Microspheres® by the company Potters, the Calcium Sodium Borosilicate particles (INCI name) for example the product marketed under the name: Luxsil AL Free 20 by the company Presperse.

[0351] Examples of magnesium oxide include the product Magnesium Oxide Extra Light Low Nickel from Dr. Paul Lohmann; of calcium carbonate, the product Omyacare Extra 35-OG from Omya, Carbomat® sold by Sensient; of barium sulfate, the product LLD-5 BASO4 (PL) from Daito Kasei Kogyo (barium sulfate and lauroyl lysine); of silica coated with lauroyl lysine such as the product Amilon marketed by Ikeda. ORGANIC LOADS

[0352] Examples of organic fillers include, alone or in mixtures, natural micronized waxes, such as micronized carnauba wax, such as the product Microcare 350 marketed by Micro Powders; metallic soaps derived from carboxylic organic acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example, zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate; lauroyl lysine such as, for example, the product Amihope LL, marketed by Ajninomoto; Hordeum Vulgare Seed Flour, such as the Amaze Nordic Barley product from the company Nouryon, PHA (poly(hydroxyalkanoate), starch, quinoa extract (INCI name: Chenopodium Quinoa Seed Extract), for example marketed by the company TriK under the name NaturePep Quinoa, cellulose, microcrystalline cellulose.

[0353] Among starches, we can mention native starches such as corn starch (INCI name: ZEA MAYS STARCH) as the product sold under the trade name Beauty By Roquette ST005® by the company ROQUETTE; rice starch (INCI name: ORYZA SATIVA STARCH) such as the commercial product Remytec FI® by the company Creachem.

[0354] Other examples include chemically modified starches such as those with the following INCI names: Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, such as the commercial product Dry Flo Plus® sold by Akzo Nobel; Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate Octenylsuccinate, such as the commercial product Structure Zea® sold by Akzo Nobel; Potato Starch Modified, such as the commercial product Structure Solanace sold by Akzo Nobel; Sodium Carboxylmethyl Starch, such as the product Beauty By Roquette STI 18® by Roquette; Oxidized Starch Acetate, such as the product GF-A390® sold by Foshan Gaofeng Starch Technology; and composite powders of starch and sodium polyacrylate with the INCI name: Sodium Polyacrylate Starch, such as Makimousse 25® and 12® commercial products sold by the company Daito Kasei Kogyo.

[0355] Among the cellulose and microcrystalline cellulose particles that can be used according to the invention, particular examples include those sold by Daito under the brand name Cellulobeads® such as Cellulobeads USF®, Cellulobeads USF-X®, Cellulobeads D-5®, Cellulobeads D-10®, Cellulobeads D-30®, or those sold under the trade names Vivapur CS 9 FM, Vivapur CS 4 FM by JRS.

[0356] Preferably, the filler is chosen from magnesium oxide, calcium carbonate, barium sulfate, possibly combined with lauroyl lysine, talc, perlite, silica, diatomaceous earth, kaolin and halloysite, Calcium Sodium Borosilicate, starch, quinoa, cellulose and their combinations.

[0357] Preferably, the possible fillers are present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.2% to 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, preferably from 0.3% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.4% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the weight of the composition representing 100%.

[0358] Preferably, the composition comprises from 0.2 to 10% by weight, more particularly from 0.5 to 9% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 7% by weight, in charge, relative to the total weight of the composition. Oils

[0359] Advantageously, the composition of the invention comprises an oily phase comprising at least one volatile oil selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils, volatile silicone oils and mixtures thereof.

[0360] Advantageously, the oily phase is dispersed in an aqueous phase, and forms with it a direct emulsion (O / W).

[0361] Alternatively, the oil phase may be the continuous phase of a reverse (W / O) emulsion. Preferably, the oil phase is a continuous oil phase.

[0362] Said oily phase is liquid (in the absence of structuring agent) at ambient temperature (20°C) and atmospheric pressure (1.013.105 Pa). It is organic, namely comprising at least carbon and hydrogen atoms and is immiscible in water.

[0363] The oily phase comprises at least one volatile oil and optionally ingredients soluble or miscible in said phase.

[0364] The total concentration in the oil phase of the composition of the invention is advantageously within the range of 5 to 100%, preferably 10 to 98% by weight, preferably 15 to 90% by weight, preferably 20 to 80% by weight, of preferably 25 to 70% by weight, preferably 30 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0365] By "oil" is meant a liquid compound at 20°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013105 Pa), immiscible with water.

[0366] By "immiscible" is meant that the mixture of the same quantity of water and oil, after stirring, does not lead to a stable solution comprising only one phase, under the aforementioned temperature and pressure conditions. The observation is made visually or, if necessary, using a phase-contrast microscope, on 100 g of the mixture obtained after sufficient Rayneri shaking to create a vortex within the mixture (for example, 200 to 1000 rpm); the resulting mixture being left to stand in a closed bottle for 24 hours at room temperature before observation. Volatile oils

[0367] By "volatile oil" is meant an oil having a vapor pressure greater than or equal to 1.3 Pa, preferably greater than or equal to 2.66 Pa, at ambient temperature (20°C) and atmospheric pressure, preferably within the range of 2.66 Pa to 40,000 Pa, preferably from 2.66 Pa to 13,000 Pa, and preferably from 2.66 Pa to 1300 Pa.

[0368] Conversely, "non-volatile oil" means an oil whose vapor pressure at 20°C and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 2.66 Pa, more particularly less than 0.13 Pa.

[0369] By way of example, vapor pressure can be measured according to the static method or by the isothermal thermogravimetric effusion method, according to the vapor pressure of the oil (OECD standard 104).

[0370] The oil or volatile oils are preferably present in a content in the range of 1 to 90% by weight, preferably 2 to 70%, preferably 3 to 50%, preferably 5 to 45% by weight, preferably 8 to 40% by weight, and even more preferably 10 to 35%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0371] The volatile oil or oils are advantageously chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils, volatile silicone oils, and mixtures thereof; preferably chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils. volatile hydrocarbon oil

[0372] The term "hydrocarbon oil" means an oil containing primarily hydrogen and carbon atoms and possibly one or more functional groups selected from among the hydroxyl, ester, ether, and carboxylic groups. A hydrocarbon oil therefore does not contain silicon or fluorine atoms.

[0373] By "nonpolar hydrocarbon oil" is meant a hydrocarbon oil comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms, preferably non-aromatic (also called hydrocarbon).

[0374] By "polar hydrocarbon oil" is meant hydrocarbon oils comprising mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and one or more functions chosen from among the hydroxyl, ester, ether, carboxylic functions, therefore oils with only C, H and O.

[0375] By way of example of a volatile hydrocarbon oil usable in the invention, the oils listed below, and their mixtures, may be cited:

[0376] - hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular C8-C16 isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopars® or Permethyls®,

[0377] - linear alkanes, in the C6-C16 range, for example in Cl1-C15, alone or in mixtures, for example such as hexane, decane, undecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as, or n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, the undecane-tridecane mixture, the mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of application WO 2008 / 155059 of the Cognis Company, and their mixtures as well as the mixtures of n-undecane (C1) and n-tridecane (C13), such as Cetiol Ultimate®, or Cetiol UT® of the BASF company; or plant-based alkanes, particularly from coconut, such as those marketed under the name VEGELIGHT SILK by BIOSYNTHIS, or the mixture of C13-15 alkanes marketed under the name NEOSSANCE HEMISQUALANE CN by AMYRIS;

[0378] - cyclic, non-aromatic, volatile C5-C12 alkanes;

[0379] - C8-C16 branched esters, isohexyl neopentanoate;

[0380] - short-chain esters (having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms in total) such as methyl acetate, ethyl acetate, methyl acetate, propyl acetate, n-butyl acetate or isobutyl acetate for example sold by SOLVAY, DOW or OXEA;

[0381] - volatile carbonate hydrocarbon oils of structure R' lO-CO-O-R'2 in in which R'1 and R'2 independently designate a linear, branched, or cyclic C4-C8 alkyl group, preferably a C4-C8 alkyl group. It may be preferable for R1 and R2 to be identical. Preferably, R'1 and R'2 designate a linear butyl alkyl radical or a pentyl group. Advantageously, the ether oil is chosen from dibutyl carbonate or dipentyl carbonate;

[0382] - volatile ether oils of formula R1OR2 in which RI and R2 denote independently a linear, branched or cyclic C4-C8 alkyl group, of A preference is for an alkyl group in C4-C8. It may be preferable for RI and R2 to be identical.

[0383] Examples of linear alkyl groups include a butyl group and a pentyl group. Examples of branched alkyl groups include a 1-methylpropyl group, a 2-methylpropyl group, a β-butyl group, and a 1,1-dimethylpropyl group. Advantageously, the ether oil is selected from dicaprylyl ether, particularly dicaprylyl ether.

[0384] Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell Sol T by the company SHELL, may also be used; or even volatile linear alkanes such as those described in the patent application of the company Cognis DE102008012457.

[0385] Volatile hydrocarbon oils are preferably selected from hydrocarbon-type hydrocarbon oils (i.e., non-polar hydrocarbon oils, consisting solely of carbon and hydrogen) having 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, and in particular:

[0386] - C8-C16 branched alkanes such as isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls, alone or in mixtures,

[0387] -linear alkanes, for example in Cl 1-C15, alone or in mixtures, and

[0388] -their mixtures.

[0389] The volatile hydrocarbon oil(s) are in particular chosen from among the alkanes and in C6-C16 and in particular alkanes such as dodecane, tetradecane, isohexadecane, mixtures of undecane and tridecane, and isoparaffins such as Cl3-16 Isoparaffin.

[0390] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the volatile oil(s) are hydrocarbon oils, linear or branched, which are volatile, in particular selected from undecane, decane, dodecane, isododecane, isohexadecane, tridecane, tetradecane and mixtures thereof, preferably comprising isododecane and / or a mixture of undecane and tridecane.

[0391] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the volatile oil(s) of the invention are a mixture of C9-C12 alkanes, preferably of natural origin, whose chains comprise 9 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably linear or branched C9-C12 alkanes. This mixture is notably known under the INCI name C9-C12 ALCANE, CAS 68608-12-8, VEGELIGHT SILK® marketed by BioSynthls.

[0392] According to a preferred embodiment, the volatile oil or oils are at least partially of vegetable origin.

[0393] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention contains less than 70% by weight, preferably less than 60% by weight, preferably less than 50% by weight, preferably less than 40% by weight, preferably less than 30%, preferably less than 20%, or even less than 15% by weight, or even less than 10% by weight of volatile hydrocarbon oil relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0394] According to another preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention contains between 1% and 50% by weight, preferably between 2% and 40% by weight, preferably between 3% and 30% by weight, preferably between 4% and 25% by weight, or even between 5% and 20% by weight of volatile hydrocarbon oil relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0395] According to another particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises a volatile hydrocarbon oil in a particular weight ratio [volatile hydrocarbon oil] / [compound a)] of between 99 / 1 and 1 / 99, preferably between 95 / 5 and 5 / 95, preferably between 90 / 10 and 10 / 90, preferably between 85 / 15 and 20 / 80, preferably between 80 / 20 and 30 / 70, preferably between 75 / 25 and 40 / 60, preferably between 70 / 30 and 50 / 50.

[0396] Preferably, the weight ratio of the quantity of volatile oil(s) to the quantity of compound a) is within the range preferably of 0.01 to 100, preferably of 0.05 to 10; preferably of 0.1 to 5; preferably of 0.1 to 3; preferably of 0.1 to 1.5; preferably of 0.2 to 1. volatile silicone oil

[0397] “Siliconized oil” means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group, and more particularly an organopolysiloxane.

[0398] Volatile silicone oils can be selected from linear, branched or cyclic silicone oils such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) having 3 to 7 silicon atoms.

[0399] Examples of such oils include octyltrimethicone, hexyltrimethicone, methyl trimethicone, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, polydimethysiloxanes such as those marketed under the reference DC 200 (1.5 cSt), DC 200 (3 cSt) by Dow Corning, or KF 96 A from Shin Etsu; alone or in mixtures.

[0400] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, a mixture of at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil and at least one volatile silicone oil will be used, and more particularly a mixture of isododecane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane.

[0401] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention contains less than 30%, preferably less than 20%, preferably less than 10%, preferably less than 5%, preferably less than 1%, preferably less than 0.5%, preferably less than 0.2%, preferably less than 0.1%, by weight of silicone oil on the total weight of the composition, and ideally the composition of the invention is free of any silicone oil.

[0402] Preferably, in the composition according to the invention, the volatile oil or oils are selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils, in particular different from compound a), preferably selected from volatile nonpolar hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, preferably selected from: C8-C16 isoalkanes such as isododecane, isodecane, or isohexadecane; C6-C16 linear alkanes, in particular C11-C15, alone or in mixtures, such as hexane, decane, undecane, tridecane, n-dodecane (C12), n-tetradecane (C14), in particular the undecane-tridecane mixture, mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13); plant-derived alkanes, particularly from coconut, or mixtures of C13-C15 alkanes; and mixtures thereof.

[0403] The composition of the present invention preferably comprises isododecane, linear or branched alkanes, in C9-C12, and / or mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13); preferably it comprises isododecane.

[0404] According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition may further comprise one or more non-volatile oils. Non-volatile oils

[0405] By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil whose vapor pressure at 20°C and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 2.66 Pa, more particularly less than 0.13 Pa. By way of example, the vapor pressure can be measured according to the static method or by the isothermal thermogravimetric effusion method, according to the vapor pressure of the oil (OECD standard 104).

[0406] The non-volatile oil(s) of the invention are of natural or synthetic origin, preferably natural.

[0407] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, composition Cl or C' 1 comprises one or more non-volatile oils.

[0408] Among the non-volatile oils, we can mention: Non-volatile silicone oils

[0409] The non-volatile silicone oil may in particular be chosen from the following non-volatile silicones with INCI names: dimethicone, dimethiconol, trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane, tetramethyl tetraphenyl trisiloxane, diphenyl dimethicone, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone, phenyltrimethicone, diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone; and mixtures thereof.

[0410] These products are marketed under the names PH-1555 HRI Cosmetic Fluid (Trimethyl Pentaphenyl Trisiloxane), Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid (Phenyltrimethicone) by Dow Corning; Diphenyl Dimethicone products such as KF-54, KF54HV, KF-50-300CS, KF-53 d, KF-50-100CS or Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone KF56 A marketed by Shin Etsu; Belsil PDM 1000, Belsil PDM 20 products marketed by Wacker Chemie (Trimethylsiloxy Phenyl Dimethicone), alone or in mixtures. Non-volatile fluorinated oils

[0411] The term "fluorinated oil" means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.

[0412] Fluorinated oil may, in particular, be selected from fluorinated polyethers, as well as from fluorosilicone oils and fluorinated silicones as described in document EP-A-847752. Non-volatile, non-polar hydrocarbon oils

[0413] Non-volatile, non-polar hydrocarbon oils may be selected from linear or branched compounds of mineral or synthetic origin, such as, for example:

[0414] - paraffin oil,

[0415] - squalane, such as the NEOSSANCE SQUALANE reference marketed by AMYRIS,

[0416] - isoeicosan,

[0417] - linear, saturated hydrocarbons, and their mixtures, more particularly in C15-C28, such as mixtures whose INCI names are for example the following: C15-19 Alkane, C18-C21 Alkane, C21-C28 Alkane, such as for example the products Gemseal 40, Gemseal 60, Gemseal 120 marketed by Total, Emogreen L19, Emogreen L15 marketed by SEPPIC,

[0418] - polybutenes, hydrogenated or not, such as, for example, products from the range Indopol products marketed by INEOS Oligomers, with the INCI name HYDROGENATED POLYISOBUTENE

[0419] - polyisobutenes, hydrogenated or not, such as for example non- volatiles of the Parléam® range marketed by the company NIPPON OIL FATS,

[0420] - polydecenes, hydrogenated or not, such as for example non- volatiles of the PURESYN® range marketed by ExxonMobil),

[0421] - decene / butene copolymers, butene / isobutene copolymers

[0422] - and their mixtures. Polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils

[0423] They can be chosen from:

[0424] - fatty alcohols, saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched, in the C10-C26 range, preferably Monoalcohols. Advantageously, C10-C26 alcohols are fatty alcohols, preferably branched when they comprise at least 16 carbon atoms. Preferably, the fatty alcohol comprises from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as in particular lauric, isostearyl, oleic alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof;

[0425] - triglycerides consisting of fatty acid esters and glycerol, in particular whose fatty acids can have chain lengths ranging from C4 to C36, and in particular from C8 to C36, preferably from C18 to C36, these oils being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. Examples include heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides; vegetable oils such as wheat germ, sunflower, grapeseed, sesame, corn, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soybean, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cottonseed, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, squash, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, candlenut, passionflower, and rosehip oils; the liquid fraction of shea butter and the liquid fraction of cocoa butter; as well as mixtures thereof;

[0426] - linear aliphatic hydrocarbon esters of formula RCOOR' in whichRCOO represents a carboxylic acid remnant containing 2 to 40 carbon atoms, and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, the aliphatic hydrocarbon esters of alkylene glycol, in particular ethylene glycol or propylene glycol; the total number of carbon atoms advantageously being at least 10. Examples of such esters include isoamyl laurate, cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, isostearyl heptanoate, coco caprylate / caprate, and octanoates, decanoates, or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, and benzoate. alkyl, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate,propylene glycol diethyl 2-hexanoate and mixtures thereof, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, octyl-2-docecyl neopentanoate, isononanoic acid esters such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate; lauroyl isopropyl sarcosinate, diisopropyl sebacate, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl behenate, myristyl myristate;

[0427] - hydroxylated esters such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate;

[0428] - aromatic esters such as tridecyl trimellitate, benzoate of C12- alcohols C15, 2-phenyl ethyl ester of benzoic acid, butyl octyl salicylate;

[0429] - linear fatty acid esters having a total carbon number from 35 to 70 such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate;

[0430] - esters of fatty alcohols or C24-C28 branched fatty acids such as citrate triisoarachidyl, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, glyceryl triisostearate, glyceryl tridecyl-2 tetradecanoate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate or pentaerythrityl tetradecanoate;

[0431] - polyesters obtained by condensation of fatty acid dimers and / or trimers unsaturated and diol such as those with INCI name dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer, dilinoleic acid / propanediol copolymer; polyesters obtained by condensation of fatty acid dimer and diol dimer such as dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate;

[0432] - synthetic ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms such as dicaprylyl ether;

[0433] - di-alkyl carbonates, the 2 alkyl chains being able to be identical or different ones, such as dicaprylyl carbonate;

[0434] - vinylpyrrolidone copolymers such as vinylpyrrolidone / 1- copolymer hexadecene (INCI name);

[0435] - their mixtures.

[0436] According to one embodiment, the non-volatile oil(s) are chosen from non-volatile silicone oils, non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, polar hydrocarbon oils as defined above, and mixtures thereof, preferably chosen from non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, polar hydrocarbon oils as defined above and mixtures thereof.

[0437] According to one embodiment, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil(s) comprise or consist of at least one non-volatile oil selected from linear aliphatic hydrocarbon esters of formula RCOOR' in which RCOO represents a carboxylic acid residue comprising from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, aliphatic hydrocarbon esters of alkylene glycol, in particular ethylene glycol or propylene glycol as defined above, more preferably selected from isoamyl laurate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, coco caprylate caprate and mixtures thereof, and even better designate isononyl isononanoate.;

[0438] According to one embodiment, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil(s) comprise or consist of at least one non-volatile oil selected from fatty alcohols, saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched, in the C10-C26 range, preferably the monoalcohols, preferably branched when they comprise at least 16 carbon atoms as described above, in particular selected from oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol such as reference EUTANOL G marketed by BASF and their mixtures.

[0439] According to one embodiment, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil(s) comprise or consist of at least one non-volatile oil selected from triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and glycerol, in particular whose fatty acids may have chain lengths ranging from C4 to C36, and in particular from C18 to C36, these oils being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated as described above, preferably selected from heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides and mixtures thereof, and more preferably caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as reference PALMESTER 3585 marketed by KLK OLEO.

[0440] According to one embodiment, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil(s) comprise or consist of at least one non-volatile oil selected from non-polar hydrocarbon non-volatile oils as described above, preferably selected from mixtures of linear, saturated hydrocarbons, more particularly C15-C28, polybutenes, hydrogenated or not, and mixtures thereof.

[0441] According to one embodiment, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil(s) comprise or consist of at least one non-volatile oil selected from the non-polar hydrocarbon non-volatile oils selected from mixtures whose INCI names are for example the following: C15-19 Alkane, C18-C21 Alkane, C21-C28 Alkane, such as for example the products Gemseal 40, Gemseal 60, Gemseal 120 marketed by Total, Emogreen L19 marketed by SEPPIC, Emogreen L15 marketed by SEPPIC, the products with the INCI name HYDROGENATED POLYISOBUTENE, and their mixtures.

[0442] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil(s) c) comprises or consists of at least one non-volatile oil selected from isoamyl laurate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, mixtures whose INCI names are, for example, C15-19 Alkane, C18-C21 Alkane, C21-C28 Alkane, such as, for example, Gemseal 40, Gemseal, products with the INCI name HYDROGENATED POLYISOBUTENE, and mixtures thereof, more particularly selected from products of INCI name HYDROGENATED POLYISOBUTENE, INCI name C15-19 Alkane mixtures such as Emogreen L15 marketed by SEPPIC, isononyl isononanoate.

[0443] According to one embodiment, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil(s) consist of one or more polar or non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils as defined above.

[0444] According to one embodiment, the non-volatile oil(s) comprise at least one silicone oil as defined above, preferably chosen from among the dimethicones, such as the grade BELSIL DM 5 PLUS DIMETHICONE marketed by Wacker, the reference DOWSIL SH 200 C FLUID 10 CST marketed by DOW CHEMICAL or the reference XIAMETER PMX-200 SILICONE FLUID 1000 CST marketed by DOW CHEMICAL, or the PHENYL TRIMETHICONE such as the reference DOWSIL SH 556 FLUID marketed by DOW CHEMICAL.

[0445] Preferably when the non-volatile oil or oils are a mixture of at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, preferably chosen from non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils and polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils with at least one volatile silicone oil, the quantity of silicone oil is less than 30%, preferably less than 20%, preferably less than 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0446] Advantageously, the possible non-volatile oil(s) are present in the composition at a rate of 0.1% to 60%, preferably 0.2% to 50%, preferably 0.5% to 40%, preferably 1% to 35%, more preferably between 1% and 30%, preferably between 1% and 20%, preferably between 1% and 15%, preferably between 1% and 10%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0447] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile oil, preferably in a weight content of less than or equal to 50%, preferably less than or equal to 40%, preferably less than or equal to 30%, and preferably less than or equal to 20%, preferably less than or equal to 15%, and preferably less than or equal to 10%, and preferably less than or equal to 8%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0448] By weight ratio denoted R, we mean the ratio of the sum of the masses of volatile oil(s) (VO) to the sum of the masses of non-volatile oil(s) (NVO), defined by:

[0449] R = [Sum of HV masses] / [Sum of HNV masses].

[0450] Preferably, R is such 0 < R < 10,000, more particularly 0.01 < R < 1,000; more particularly 0.05 < R < 500; preferably 0.1 < R < 100, preferably 0.2 < R < 50, or even 0.5 < R < 10. Possible silicone(s)

[0451] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition, 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, of silicone, preferably less than 1%, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.3% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% silicone.

[0452] By silicone, we mean any silicone compound.

[0453] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is substantially free of silicone, different from a film-forming or tackant silicone polymer, preferably different from a silicone resin or a silicone acrylate copolymer, preferably different from an MQ resin or an acrylates / polytrimethylsiloxy-methacrylate copolymer.

[0454] By "substantially free of silicone other than a film-forming or tack-forming silicone polymer, preferably a silicone resin or a silicone acrylate copolymer, preferably other than an MQ resin or an acrylates / polytrimethylsiloxy-methacrylate copolymer", it is understood that the composition comprises less than 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.3% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight of silicone other than a film-forming or tack-forming silicone polymer, preferably a silicone resin or a silicone acrylate copolymer, preferably other than an MQ resin or an acrylates / polytrimethylsiloxy-methacrylate copolymer.Preferably, the composition is totally free of silicone other than a film-forming or tackifying silicone polymer, preferably a silicone resin or a silicone acrylate copolymer, preferably other than an MQ resin or an acrylates / polytrimethylsiloxy-methacrylate copolymer. By silicone other than a film-forming or tackifying silicone polymer, preferably other than a silicone resin or a silicone acrylate copolymer, preferably other than an MQ resin or an acrylates / polytrimethylsiloxy-methacrylate copolymer, is meant any silicone compound that is not a film-forming or tackifying silicone polymer, preferably not a silicone resin or a silicone acrylate copolymer, preferably not an MQ resin or an acrylates / polytrimethylsiloxy-methacrylate copolymer.

[0455] The term "resin" refers to a compound with a three-dimensional structure. Thus, for the purposes of the present invention, a polydimethylsiloxane is not a silicone resin.

[0456] The nomenclature of silicone resins is known as "MDTQ", the resin being described according to the different siloxane monomeric units it comprises, each of the letters "MDTQ" characterizing a type of unit.

[0457] The letter “M” represents the Monofunctional unit of formula RlR2R3SiOi / 2, the silicon atom being bonded to a single oxygen atom in the polymer comprising this unit.

[0458] The letter “D” signifies a Difunctional Unit RlR2SiO2 / 2 in which the silicon atom is bonded to two oxygen atoms.

[0459] The letter "T" represents a Trifunctional unit of formula RlSiO3 / 2.

[0460] In the motifs M, D, T defined above, Ri, namely RI, R2 and R3, identical or different, represent a hydrocarbon radical (in particular alkyl) having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a phenylalkyl group or even a hydroxyl group.

[0461] Finally, the letter “Q” signifies a Tetrafunctional SiO4 / 2 unit in which the silicon atom is bonded to four oxygen atoms which are themselves bonded to the rest of the polymer.

[0462] Such resins are described for example in "Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, vol. 15, John and Wiley and Sons, New York, (1989), p. 265-270, and US 2,676,182, US 3,627,851, US 3,772,247, US 5,248,739 or US 5,082,706, US 5,319,040, US 5,302,685 and US 4,935,484.

[0463] MQ-type silicone resins are, for example, alkylsiloxysilicates of the formula [(Rl)3SiO1 / 2]x(SiO4 / 2)y (MQ units), where x and y are integers from 50 to 80, and such that the RI group represents a radical as defined above, and preferably is an alkyl group having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyl group, preferably a methyl group. In particular, trimethylsiloxysilicate or phenylalkylsiloxysilicate resins, such as phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate, are distinguished.

[0464] Silicone polymers include siloxanes having an organo group, such as polyalkylsiloxanes, where at least one alkyl group is other than methyl, for example organopolysiloxanes with the INCI name Stearyl Dimethicone, Cetyl Dimethicone or C26-28 Alkyl Dimethicone, or, for example, polyarylsiloxanes and polyarylalkylsiloxanes, for example organopolysiloxanes with the INCI name Phenyl Trimethicone, Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone or Dimethylphenyl Dimethicone, or, for example, organopolysiloxanes having an organo group such as an aminopropyl, aminopropyl-aminoethyl, aminopropyl-aminoisobutyl group, for example organopolysiloxanes with the INCI name Amodimethicone, or, for example, the organopolysiloxanes having a polyethylene glycol or polyalkylene glycol radical, for example organopolysiloxanes having the INCI name PEG-12 Dimethicone, PEG / PPG-25,25-Dimethicone or Cetyl PEG / PPG-15 / 15 Butyl ether Dimethicone.

[0465] Silicone acrylate copolymers are polymers comprising a siloxane group and a hydrocarbon group. For example, suitable polymers include polymers comprising a hydrocarbon backbone such as, for example, a backbone selected from vinyl polymers, methacrylic polymers and / or the acrylic polymers and at least one chain selected from pendant siloxane groups and polymers comprising a skeleton of siloxane groups and at least one pendant hydrocarbon chain such as, for example, a pendant vinyl, methacrylic and / or acrylic group.

[0466] The silicone acrylate copolymer can be selected from polymers derived from non-polar silicone copolymers comprising repeating units of at least one polar (meth)acrylate unit and vinyl copolymers grafted with at least one non-polar silicone chain. Non-limiting examples of such copolymers include acrylate / dimethicone copolymers such as those commercially available from Shin-Etsu, for example, products sold under the brand names KP-545 (cyclopentasiloxane (and) acrylates / dimethicone copolymer), KP-543 (butyl acetate (and) acrylates / dimethicone copolymer), KP-549 (methyl trimethicone (and) acrylates / dimethicone copolymer), KP-550 (INCI name: isododecane (and) acrylate / dimethicone copolymer), KP-561 (acrylates / stearyl acrylate / dimethicone acrylates copolymer), KP-562 (acrylates / behenyl acrylate / dimethicone acrylates copolymer), and mixtures thereof.Additional examples include acrylate / dimethicone copolymers sold by Dow Corning under the brand names FA 4001 CM SILICONE ACRYLATE (cyclopentasiloxane (and) acrylates / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer), FA 4002 ID SILICONE ACRYLATE (isododecane (and) acrylates / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate Copolymer), and FA 4004 ID SILICONE ACRYLATE (isododecane (and) acrylates / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate Copolymer), and mixtures thereof.

[0467] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention is substantially silicone-free. By "substantially silicone-free," it is understood that the composition comprises less than 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.3% by weight, and preferably less than 0.1% by weight of silicone. Preferably, the composition is completely silicone-free. In this embodiment, silicone means any silicone compound, including film-forming or tackifying silicone polymers.

[0468] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more volatile oils, one or more non-volatile oils, optionally water and optionally one or more organic solvents other than the oils a) and alcohols b) defined according to the invention.

[0469] According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one continuous oily phase of composition defined above.

[0470] According to a first embodiment, the composition of the invention is in the form of an oily composition, in particular anhydrous, such as an oily dispersion or an oily solution, or a stick.

[0471] According to a second embodiment of the invention, the composition further presents an aqueous phase.

[0472] Advantageously, the total oil phase content is in the range of 5 to 100%, preferably 10 to 98% by weight, preferably 20 to 90% by weight, preferably 30 to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Possible aqueous phase

[0473] The aqueous phase, when present in the composition of the invention, comprises water and optionally ingredients soluble or miscible in water such as water-soluble solvents.

[0474] A suitable water for the invention may be a floral water such as cornflower water and / or a mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water and / or a thermal water.

[0475] In the present invention, a water-soluble solvent is defined as a compound that is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 20°C and atmospheric pressure).

[0476] The water-soluble solvents usable in the composition of the invention may also be volatile.

[0477] Among the water-soluble solvents that can be used in the composition according to the invention, we can mention in particular lower monoalcohols having 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols having 2 to 8 carbon atoms such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, propanediol, pentylene glycol, glycerin and dipropylene glycol, C3-C4 ketones and C2-C4 aldehydes.

[0478] Advantageously, the aqueous phase is preferably present with a total weight content in the range of 2 to 95% by weight, preferably 5 to 90% by weight, preferably 10 to 80% by weight, more particularly 15 to 70% by weight, preferably 20 to 60% by weight, preferably 20 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0479] The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one additive selected from those commonly used in the cosmetic field: active ingredients such as vitamins, anti-aging active ingredients; UV filters different from compound b); fillers; lipophilic thickeners; surfactants; perfumes; preservatives; and mixtures thereof. Possible surfactants

[0480] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition further comprises one or more surfactant(s), preferably non-ionic, ionic or mixtures thereof.

[0481] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the composition does not include a surfactant.

[0482] The term "surfactant" refers to a compound that modifies the surface tension between two surfaces. Surfactants are amphiphilic molecules, which have two parts of different polarities: one lipophilic (attracting fats), which is nonpolar, and the other hydrophilic (miscible or soluble in water), which is polar. The lipophilic part is generally a fat chain, and the other part, miscible with water, is polar and / or protic.

[0483] By "ionic" we mean anionic, cationic, amphoteric, or zwitterionic.

[0484] By "fatty chain" is meant a hydrocarbon chain comprising more than 6 atoms, preferably between 6 and 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or not.

[0485] Emulsifying surfactants are characterized by their HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance), the HLB being the ratio between the hydrophilic and lipophilic parts in the molecule. The term HLB is well known to those skilled in the art and is described, for example, in *The HLB System: A Time-Saving Guide to Emulsifier Selection* (published by ICI Americas Inc., 1984). For emulsifying surfactants, the HLB generally ranges from 3 to 8 for the preparation of water-in-oil emulsions. The HLB of the surfactant(s) used according to the invention can be determined by the Griffin method or the Da Vies method.

[0486] When present, the surfactant(s) shall represent in total particularly from 0.01% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, and even more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, better between 1% and 7% by weight of the composition. Possible lipophilic thickeners

[0487] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one lipophilic thickener, chosen more particularly from silicas, hydrophobic or not; lipophilic clays; alone or in mixture. Silicas

[0488] The composition according to the invention may thus include, as a mineral thickener, a fumed silica, preferably hydrophobic, or silica aerogel particles, preferably hydrophobic. Pyrogenated silica

[0489] Suitable for the invention is hydrophobically treated fumed silica. It is indeed possible to chemically modify the surface of silica by a chemical reaction that reduces the number of silanol groups present on the silica surface. In particular, silanol groups can be replaced by hydrophobic groups, resulting in hydrophobic silica.

[0490] Hydrophobic groups can be: - Trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are obtained in particular by treating fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas treated in this way are called "Silica Silylate" according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are marketed, for example, under the references Aerosil R812® by the company Degussa, and CAB-O-SIL TS-530® by the company Cabot. - dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are obtained in particular by treating fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas treated in this way are called "Silica Dimethyl Silylate" according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are marketed, for example, under the references Aerosil R972® and Aerosil R974® by the company Degussa, and CAB-O-SIL TS-610® and CAB-O-SIL TS-720® by the company Cabot. Silica aerogels

[0491] Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air.

[0492] They are generally synthesized by the sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then dried, usually by extraction from a supercritical fluid, most commonly supercritical CO2. This type of drying prevents pore and material contraction. The sol-gel process and the various drying methods are described in detail in Brinker CL, and Scherer GW, Sol-Gel Science: New York: Academie Press, 1990.

[0493] Hydrophobic silica aerogel particles usually have a specific surface area per unit mass (SM) of 500 to 1500 m2 / g, preferably 600 to 1200 m2 / g and better 600 to 800 m2 / g, and a size expressed as volume mean diameter (D[0,5]) of 1 to 1500 pm, better 1 to 1000 pm, preferably 1 to 1000 pm, in particular 1 to 30 pm, preferably still 5 to 25 pm, better 5 to 20 pm and better still 5 to 15 pm.

[0494] According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a size expressed in volume average diameter (D[0,5]) ranging from 1 to 30 pm, preferably from 5 to 25 pm, better from 5 to 20 pm and even better from 5 to 15 pm.

[0495] The specific surface area per unit mass can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method called the BET (BRUNAUER - EMMET - TELLER) method described in "The Journal of the American Chemical Society", vol. 60, page 309, February 1938 and corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794 / 1 (Annex D). The BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of ​​the particles considered.

[0496] The particle sizes of silica aerogel can be measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyzer such as the Malvern MasterSizer 2000. The data are processed based on Mie scattering theory. This theory, accurate for isotropic particles, allows for the determination of an "effective" particle diameter in the case of non-spherical particles. This theory is described in particular in Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles," Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0497] According to an advantageous embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit mass (SM) ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g and a size expressed in volume mean diameter (D[0,5]) ranging from 5 to 20 pm and even better from 5 to 15 pm.

[0498] Aerogels are hydrophobic silica aerogels, preferably silylated silica (INCI name Silica Silylate).

[0499] By "hydrophobic silica" is meant any silica whose surface is treated with silylation agents, for example with halogenated silanes such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups with Si-Rn silyl groups, for example trimethylsilyl groups.

[0500] Regarding the preparation of surface-modified hydrophobic silica aerogel particles by silylation, reference can be made to US document 7,470,725.

[0501] Preferably, hydrophobic silica aerogel particles modified on the surface by trimethylsilyl groups will be used.

[0502] As examples of hydrophobic silica aerogels that can be used in the invention, one can cite, for example, the aerogel marketed under the name VM-2260 (INCI name Silica Silylate), by the company Dow Corning, whose particles have an average size of about 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g.

[0503] We can also mention the aerogels marketed by the Cabot company under the references AEROGEL TLD 201®, AEROGEL OGD 201®, AEROGEL TLD 203®, ENOVA AEROGEL MT 1100®, ENOVA AEROGEL MT 120.

[0504] We can also mention the aerogel marketed under the name VM-2270 (INCI name Silica Silylate), by the company Dow Corning, whose particles exhibit a average size ranging from 5-15 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g. Lipophilic clays

[0505] The term “lipophilic clay” means any clay that is liposoluble or lipodispersible in the oily phase of the composition.

[0506] Clay refers to a material based on hydrated silicates and / or aluminosilicates with a lamellar structure.

[0507] Clays can be natural or synthetic and are made lipophilic by treatment with an alkyl ammonium salt such as a C22 C1O ammonium chloride, in particular steralkonium chloride or di-stearyl di-methyl ammonium chloride.

[0508] They can be chosen from among bentonites, in particular bentonites, hectorites and montmorillonites, beidellites, saponites, nontronites, sepiolites, biotites, attapulgites, vermiculites and zeolites.

[0509] Preferably, they are chosen from among the hectorites and the bentonites.

[0510] For example, a lipophilic clay selected from hydrophobic modified bentonites and hydrophobic modified hectorites, in particular by a quaternary ammonium chloride in C22CIO, can be used, such as: - a bentonite modified by stearalkonium chloride such as the commercial products sold under the name CLAYTONE AF®, GARAMITE VT®, TIXOGEL® LG-M, TIXOGEL® MP 250 TIXOGEL® VZ, TIXOGEL® VZ-V XR, by the company BYK Additives Inc; the commercial products sold under the name VISCOGEL® B3, VISCOGEL® B4, VISCOGEL® B7, VISCOGEL® B8, VISCOGEL® ED, VISCOGEL® GM, VISCOGEL® S4, VISCOGEL® SD by the company Bentec SPA; - a bentonite modified by stearalkonium chloride in the presence of at least propylene carbonate and at least one oil such as the commercial products DUB VELVET GUM® from STEARINERIE DUBOIS FILS, MYGLYOL GEL T® from Cremer Oleo, TIXOGEL® CGT 6030, TIXOGEL® DBA 6060, TIXOGEL® FTN, TIXOGEL® FTN 1564, TIXOGEL® IPM, TIXOGEL® LAN, TIXOGEL® LAN 1563 by BYK Additives Inc; - a hectorite modified by distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride (INCI name: DISTEARDIMONIUM HECTORITE) such as, for example, that marketed under the name BENTONE® 38VCG RHEOLOGICAL ADDITIVE by the company Elementis Specialities; - a hectorite modified with distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride in the presence of at least propylene carbonate or triethyl citrate and at least one oil such as the commercial products sold under the name BENTONE® GEL DOA V, BENTONE® GEL EUG V, BENTONE® GEL IHD V, BENTONE® GEL ISD V, BENTONE® GEL MIO V® BENTONE® GEL PTM V® BENTONE® SS-71 V, BENTONE® VS-5 PC V, BENTONE® VS-5 by Elementis Specialities; commercial products sold under the name CREAGEL BENTONE CPS / HECTONE CPS®, CREAGEL BENTONE ID / HECTONE ID® by Créations Couleurs; commercial products sold under the name NS GEL DM1®, NS GEL PTIS®, NS MGEL 1152® by Next Step Laboratories Stop.

[0511] Lipophilic gelling agents may also be mentioned as esters of dextrin and fatty acids, in particular C12 to C24, preferably C14 to C18, or mixtures thereof. More preferably, the dextrin ester is a dextrin and fatty acid ester in the C12-C18 range, in particular C14-C18.

[0512] Preferably, the lipophilic gelling agent may be present in the composition at concentrations ranging, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition form

[0513] The composition of the invention may be in the form of an anhydrous composition, a water-in-oil emulsion or an oil-in-water emulsion, a multiple emulsion, or an aqueous composition.

[0514] According to a first embodiment of the invention, the composition is monophasic oily.

[0515] According to another advantageous embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises an aqueous phase, in which case it is preferably in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, or an oil-in-water emulsion, or possibly a composition with several separate phases (such as a bi-phase); preferably in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion.

[0516] By "water-in-oil" or W / O emulsion, we mean a composition comprising an oily phase and an aqueous phase that are not miscible; the aqueous phase being dispersed in the form of droplets in the oily (continuous) phase so as to obtain a macroscopically homogeneous composition.

[0517] Continuous oil phase galenic forms are preferred in the case of pigment dispersion according to the invention, which promotes their homogeneity and thus optimizes the coverage obtained for the film obtained after application of the composition according to the invention (as demonstrated in the examples).

[0518] The composition of the present invention is particularly suitable for the manufacture of cosmetic products with fluid textures. Advantageously, the composition according to the invention is more particularly in the form of a viscoelastic liquid ranging from fluid to viscous, whose modulus G* (viscoelastic modulus) is between 0.1 and 20,000 Pa, more particularly between 1 and 5,000 Pa, or even between 10 and 1000 Pa. The modulus G* is measured with a stress rheometer and the values ​​are taken on the viscoelastic plateau at 25°C.

[0519] The composition of the invention may also be in solid form such as a stick. Cosmetic applications

[0520] According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a composition, in particular makeup and / or skincare, for the body or face, in particular the face, and / or lips and / or eyelashes and / or hair.

[0521] A composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a makeup composition for keratinous materials, particularly the skin of the body or face, especially the face. Thus, according to a sub-embodiment of this embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a base composition for makeup. A composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a liquid product for lip makeup, particularly in the form of a liquid lipstick, or even a lip gloss.

[0522] A composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a solid product for lip makeup, in particular in the form of a lipstick stick.

[0523] According to another sub-equation of this embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a skin makeup composition, particularly for the face. It may thus be a foundation, an eyeshadow, or a blush.

[0524] It may also be a mascara, an eyeliner, a concealer or corrector, an eyebrow product, a skin care product, a sun product, or a hygiene product, or even a hair styling product, or hair coloring; or even a nail polish.

[0525] Such compositions are notably prepared according to the general knowledge of the person skilled in the art.

[0526] Throughout the application, the expression "includes a" or "comprises a" should be understood as meaning "containing at least one" or "comprising at least one", unless otherwise specified.

[0527] The following examples will help to better understand the invention, but are not intended to be limiting. Raw materials are named by their chemical or INCI name. Unless otherwise stated, quantities are expressed as % w / w of raw materials by weight of the total composition. Examples

[0528] Preparation of compositions according to the invention (“Ex”) and comparisons with compositions outside the invention (“Comparatives”) Preparation of compositions

[0529] Procedure and equipment used for each test:

[0530] Each modified polysaccharide was prepared in a solvent at room temperature, according to the weight proportions indicated in the following tables, and according to the following protocol: mix the modified polysaccharide with the solvent in a bottle, then leave the closed bottle under agitation using a roller shaker for 24 hours at room temperature 20°C. Depending on the compositions, add any coloring agent and leave under agitation using a roller shaker for 24 hours at room temperature 20°C.

[0531] Results on the solubility of modified polysaccharides

[0532] Solubility is assessed through the level of visual transparency and measured of the solutions 24 hours after preparation of the compositions, then after 10 days of storage at ambient temperature and relative humidity. Transparency

[0533] Each sample described above was re-reacted using the Vortex-Génie 2TM vibratory shaker (Scientific Industries), vibration force 8 for 1 minute. It was then immediately transferred to a cylindrical glass cell suitable for performing transmission measurements (in %) using Turbiscan Lab (Formulaction). The percentage of transmission corresponds to the percentage of incident light that passes through the sample.

[0534] The transmission value was taken throughout the entire height of the sample, and the mean value with one standard deviation is shown in the following table. The higher the transmission, the more "transparent" the sample, and therefore the better the solubility of the modified polysaccharide throughout the entire sample volume.

[0535] The measurements were carried out at room temperature (20°C) with programmed analysis at different times after sample preparation.

[0536] Results on the transparency of solutions with modified polysaccharides

[0537] [Tables] INCI Name Cpl Cp2 Cp3 Ex4 Ex5 Ex6 ETHYLCELLULOSE 5 5 5 5 5 5 Ethanol 95 - 47.5 - - - Isododecane - 95 47.5 - - - Ethyl Lactate - - - 95 Butyl Lactate - - - - 95 - Isopropylidene glycoside - - - - - 95 Macroscopic appearance at T24H, Homogeneous, very cloudy, Insoluble (polymer powder at the bottom of the bottle) Homogeneous, cloudy Homogeneous, transparent Homogeneous, transparent Homogeneous, transparent Transmission T2 4H, % 46.1+0.9 - 83.6+3.4 88.7+1.1 91.2+4.1 89.9+1.9 Transmission T1 Days, % 53.7+0.2 - 87.9+0.6 92.5+0.7 93.4+0.9 93.0+0.4 Transmission pure solvent, % 94.1+0.3 - 96.0+0.4 96.0+0.5 95.9+0.8 98.1+0.2 Ratio [T24H transmission / Pure solvent transmission] 0.49 0.87 0.92 0.95 0.92 Ratio [TlOdays transmission / Pure solvent transmission] 0.57 0.92 0.96 0.97 0.95

[0538] Examples 4, 5 and 6 show that after 24 hours, ethylcellulose is more soluble in the solvents of the invention, with the transparency of the solutions being greater than in a mixture of isododecane / ethanol solvents and much greater than in ethanol alone. This high transparency is maintained over time (10 days).

[0539] Protocol for spreading compositions into a film for evaluating homogeneity and brightness measurements

[0540] The product is spread on a spreading table (Elcometer 4340 Applicator) which allows adjustment of both the speed and the distance over which it is spread. The table is equipped with a suction system connected to a pump to prevent the surface being spread from moving. Contrast cards with a black and a white background are used (byko-chart type, Opacity 2A, reference 2810 from BYK-Gardner GmbH). The film is spread across both the black and white areas. The thickness The spreading thickness is adjustable thanks to the square spreader placed on the support, allowing for leveling when the platform is activated. Each section of the spreader allows for a different spreading thickness, ranging from 25 sq m to 200 sq m. The chosen thickness is 25 sq m to approximate the thickness of the film in vivo. A 960 g weight is added on top of the spreader during the spreading process. The spreading speed is set to 1 lm / sec, or 2.54 cm / s. The films are dried for a specific time at ambient temperature and relative humidity (20°C, 50%). Gloss measurement protocol

[0541] The black area of ​​the contrast map allows visual control of the homogeneity of the spread, as well as for measuring the gloss of the films.

[0542] Gloss measurements are carried out using a gloss meter (Mini Gloss Meter 60°, BykGardner) which is calibrated at 60° prior to measurements.

[0543] Gloss is measured at different times. Immediate gloss is measured at T0, T5min, and T10min (after application) at ambient temperature and humidity (20°C, 50%). For each measurement time, two cards are prepared, and three measurements are taken per card. The gloss is therefore an average of six measurements at each time. Results on the brightness of the films

[0544] [Tables2] INCI Name Cpl Cp3 Ex4 Ex5 Ex6 ETHYLCELLULO SE 5 5 5 5 5 Ethanol 95 47.5 - - - Isododecane - 47.5 Ethyl Lactate - - 95 Butyl Lactate - - - 95 Isopropylidene Glycerol - - - - 95 Gloss at T0, UB 66.3+0.3 75.9+0.6 75.1+0.1 76.0+0.1 78.3+0.2 Gloss at T5min, UB 63.4+3.5 40.0+1.2 75.9+0.3 76.3+0.3 78.2+0.2 Gloss at T1min, UB 60.9+5.2 38.8+1.5 78.8+1.0 76.3+0.3 78.1+0.1 Gloss at T2H, UB 53.5+5.2 42.8+2.9 78.8+0.3 79.2+0.6 76.8+1.4 Homogeneity of the 1m range: Inhomogeneous, Homogeneous, Homogeneous, Homogeneous, Homogeneous

[0545] Examples 4, 5, and 6 show that films based on ethyl lactate, butyl lactate, and isopropylidene glycerol are very glossy and homogeneous immediately and remain so after 2 hours of drying, unlike films obtained from ethanol and / or isododecane solvents, which are significantly less glossy. Furthermore, the ethanol-based mixture shows an inhomogeneous film. Evaporation rate assessment

[0546] The evaporation rate was measured gravimetrically in a ventilated glove box at controlled temperature and humidity (30°C, 50% relative humidity). A balance, connected to a computer, measured the mass of the sample at each instant. On the computer, the BalanceLink software recorded the data generated by the balance every 30 seconds. The evaporation kinetics correspond to the mass lost over time on a given surface for initial formula deposits of approximately 0.54 ± 0.08 g, or approximately 63 ± 9 mg / cm².

[0547] [Tables3] INCI Name Cpl Cp3 Ex4 Ex5 ETHYLCELLULOSE 5 5 5 5 Ethanol 95 47.5 - - Isododecane - 47.5 Ethyl Lactate - - 95 Butyl Lactate - - - 95 Mass evaporated at T5min, mg / cm2 32.7+2.0 22.0+1.2 1.08+0.09 0.06+0.0 Mass evaporated at T10min, mg / cm2 57.4+2.5 (complete evaporation) 32.5+1.9 3.16+0.47 0.43+0.07 Mass evaporated at T20min, mg / cm2 57.4+2.5 (complete evaporation) 43.2+0.4 7.98+0.83 1.43+0.14 Mass evaporated at T30min, mg / cm2 57.4+2.5 (complete evaporation) 47.0+4.9 (complete evaporation) 12.96+1.22 2.61+0.16

[0548] The examples with ethyl lactate and butyl lactate show that the mass evaporated is systematically lower versus that of the examples with ethanol or the a mixture of ethanol and isododecane which allows more time for a pleasant and high-quality makeup application.

[0549] Protocol for spreading compositions into a film for coverage measurements

[0550] The product is spread on a spreading bench (Elcometer 4340 Applicator) which allows for adjustment of both the speed and the distance over which it is spread. The bench is equipped with a suction system connected to a pump to prevent the support on which the spreading is performed from moving. Contrast cards with a black background and an uncoated white background are used (1 byko-chart, uncoated N2A, code 2831). The spreading thickness is adjustable using the square spreader placed on the support so that it spreads by leveling when the platform is switched on. Each section of the spreader allows for spreading to a different thickness ranging from 25 µm to 200 µm. The chosen thickness is 25 µm to approximate the thickness of the in vivo film. A weight of 960 g is added on top of the spreader during the spreading process. The spreading speed is set to 2.54cm / s. The films are dried for 24 hours at 34°C and ambient RH on a hot plate. Coverage measurement protocol

[0551] The measurement is carried out by colorimetric measurements on dry film using the Konica Minolta CM-700d spectrophotometer. The contact measurement ensures the absence of light pollution.

[0552] Selected settings: Aperture 8 mm; Uncertainty: 0.04; Measurement SCI / SCE; Geometry d / 8°.

[0553] The color measurements on the two backgrounds (black background FN and white background FB) make it possible to characterize the coverage of a foundation by calculating the "contrast ratio", (CR%) i.e. YFN / YFB x 100, where YFN and YFB are respectively the luminance values ​​measured on black background and white background, the latter being higher the more covering the film.

[0554] Note: To obtain each Contrast Ratio value, at least two contrast cards are used for each composition, which are evaluated with three CR measurements on each card. Each CR value therefore represents an average of six measurements.

[0555] Results on the homogeneity and coverage of films

[0556] [Tables4] Name INCI Cp 7 Cp 8 Ex 9 Ex 10 Exile ETHYLCELLULOS E 3 3 3 3 3 Ethanol 87 43.5 - - - Isododecane - 43.5 Ethyl Lactate - - 87 Butyl Lactate - - - 87 - Isopropylidene Glycol - - - - 87 CI 15850 10 10 10 10 10 Film Homogeneity Inhomogeneous Homogeneous Homogeneous Homogeneous Homogeneous Homogeneous Homogeneous CR, % 46.8+7.2 49.9+2.8 64.0+1.4 66.4+2.0 64.8+0.8

[0557] Examples 9, 10, and 11 show that films based on ethyl lactate, butyl lactate, and isopropylidene glycerol, as well as Cp8 based on an ethanol / isodecane mixture, are homogeneous immediately and within 2 hours of drying, unlike the ethanol-based mixture, whose film is visually inhomogeneous. The coverage of films based on ethyl lactate, butyl lactate, or isopropylidene glycerol (obtained from the compositions according to the invention) is greater than that of films based on ethanol or ethanol / isodecane (obtained from the compositions not of the invention). Emulsion tests

[0558] The following mixtures were prepared by solubilizing ethylcellulose in the oil-phase mixture (solvent with surfactant) using a Rayneri mixer at room temperature at 500 rpm for 10 min or until a homogeneous and clear oil phase was obtained. Water was then added dropwise at 1000 rpm, and stirring was maintained for 10 min.

[0559] The spreads for assessing the homogeneity of the films were prepared according to the "Spreading Protocol for One-Film Compositions for Coverage Measurements" described above using previously reacted emulsions.

[0560] [Tables5] INCI Name Cp 12 Exl3 Ex 14 Ex 15 ETHYLCELLULOSE 5.56 5.56 5.56 5.56 Ethanol 40 - - - Isododecane 40 Ethyl Lactate - 80 Butyl Lactate - - 80 - Isopropylidene glycerol - - - 80 Polyglyceryl-6 polyric inoleate 3.33 3.33 3.33 3.33 Water 11.11 11.11 11.11 11.11 Emulsion appearance at T0 OK OK OK OK Emulsion appearance at T4 (8h) Very out of phase Slightly out of phase Homogeneous Homogeneous Film homogeneity Inhomogeneous Homogeneous Homogeneous Homogeneous

[0561] Visual observation:

[0562] Examples 13, 14, and 15 show that the emulsions based on ethyl lactate, butyl lactate, and isopropylidene glycerol are immediately homogeneous (T0). After two days, these emulsions remain more stable than the ethanol / isodecane mixture emulsion. The solvent-based films of the invention are more homogeneous compared to the ethanol / isodecane film, which is visually inhomogeneous.

[0563] Compatibility of ethylcellulose in different ratios of Isododecane / Butyl lactate.

[0564] For the purposes of this invention, "compatible" means obtaining a homogeneous and clear liquid mixture when 6% by weight of ethylcellulose (sold, in particular, under the trade name Aqualon EC N7 PHARM by Ashland) is mixed with 94% by weight of a mixture consisting of isododecane and butyl lactate (butyl lactate is sold, in particular, by ES UN Industrial Co). Procedure#:

[0565] In a pillbox equipped with a magnetic bar, ethylcellulose is added to the solvent mixture.

[0566] Leave under agitation for 1 hour at room temperature.

[0567] [Tableauxô] Volatile solvent(s) Compatibility with 1' Ethylcellulose (6 wt%) Cpl6 Isododecane alone (94%) Incompatible Exl7 Isododecane / Butyl lactate (Ratio 60 / 40=1.5) Compatible Exl8 Isododecane / Butyl lactate (Ratio 50 / 50=1) Compatible Exl9 Isododecane / Butyl lactate (Ratio 40 / 60=0.67) Compatible Ex20 Isododecane / Butyl lactate (Ratio 30 / 70=0.43) Compatible Ex21 Isododecane / Butyl lactate (Ratio 10 / 90=0.11) Compatible Ex22 Butyl lactate alone (94%) Compatible

[0568] In the presence of isododecane, the [Isododecane / Butyl lactate] ratio of less than or equal to 1.5 allowed perfect compatibility of ethylcellulose.

[0569] Compatibility of a mixture comprising a specific polyester and ethylcellulose in different percentages and in different ratios of Isododecane / Butyl lactate.

[0570] [Tables?] Ingredients Ratio A Ratio B Ratio C ETHYLCELLULOSE (AQUALON EC N7 PHARM-ASHLAND) 3.00 5.00 6.00 DIISOSTEAROYL POLYGLYCERYL-3 DIME R DILINOLEATE (60%) (and) CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE (40%) (SOLAMAZE NATURAL®-NOURYON) 5.00 15.00 3.30 % Polyester (active ingredient) by weight 3.00 9.00 2.00 Ethylcellulose / Polyester Ratio 1.00 0.56 3.00 Volatile solvent(s): ISODODECANE and / or BUTYL LACTATE (ESUN INDUSTRIAL CO., LTD) q.s. 100% q.s. 100% q.s. 100% Isododecane alone Cp 23 Incompatible Cp24 Incompatible CP25 Incompatible. Respective mixtures tested for the 3 ratios [Isododecane / Butyl lactate]: 50 / 50; 40 / 60; 30 / 70. EX26 Compatible. EX27 Compatible. EX28 Compatible. Butyl lactate alone. EX29 Compatible. EX30 Compatible. EX31 Compatible.

[0571] The ratio between the two polymers has no influence on compatibility.

[0572] LTsododecane as the sole solvent did not allow the two polymers to be made compatible.

[0573] In the presence of an Isododecane / Butyl lactate mixture, the tested ratios [Isododecane / Butyl lactate], preferably less than or equal to 1 (respectively 50 / 50; 40 / 60; 30 / 70), allowed perfect compatibility of the 2 polymers used combined.

[0574] Butyl Lactate as the sole solvent also allowed perfect compatibility of the 2 polymers used in combination (Ethylcellulose and Solamaze).

[0575] Measurement of the wear resistance and transfer of an Ex32 composition

[0576] Protocol for measuring wear resistance and transfer: Test preparation: #

[0577] Support#: Supplale beige (2.5 x 5 cm) (marketed by Soudotique).

[0578] Apply the composition using a plunge applicator with a flocked tip (gloss applicator) over the entire surface 3 times in succession to ensure sufficient and even coverage. Repeat the process on two other strips.

[0579] Allow the deposit to dry on a plate heated to 32°C for 45 minutes. Optionally, take a photo of each support with the deposit (made up) before the application. 1. Requests:#

[0580] Preparing a tissue for each request: Fold each tissue twice along the long edge and then twice in the other direction to form a square. • Dry resistance: #

[0581] Rub once with the handkerchief folded lengthwise one of the three made-up supports; the force applied is that normally exerted when removing makeup from the skin or lips.

[0582] Observe the condition of the rubbed surface and the area of ​​the handkerchief used, in particular the remaining color and the transferred color. If necessary, take a photograph.

[0583] Note that the assessment of resistance to transfer is done with this solicitation. 1. Notation:#

[0584] For each request, note the result according to the table below:

[0585] [Tables8] Deposit rating: Condition of the deposit; Dry wear rating; Fabric rating: Surface area of ​​the fabric in contact with the deposit; Transfer rating on fabric: 5 Total or partial removal of the deposit from the rubbed area; the substrate surface appears in places; 5 Very intense coloration - very significant to total color transfer; 4 Partial removal resulting in a significantly and visibly less intense coloration of the deposit; 4 Intense coloration - significant color transfer; 3 Perceptible decrease in the intensity of the deposit's color, but the substrate is not visible; 3 Medium coloration - medium color transfer 2 No substantial change in deposit color 2 Slight discoloration - little color transfer 1 No change in deposit color 1 No discoloration or barely visible discoloration - little to no color transfer

[0586] Tested composition based on modified polysaccharide, crystallizable fat, and compound a) according to the invention:

[0587] [Tables9] INCI Name Ex3 2 ALCOHOL DENAT. 13.2 ISODODECANE 30.0 ISOPROPYLIDENE GLYCEROL 20.0 ETHYLCELLULOSE 5.0 DIISOSTEAROYL POLYGLYCERYL-3 DIMER DILIN OLEATE 15.0 TRIBEHENIN 1.8 RED 7 7.5 MICA 2.5 SILICA 5.0 Dry wear resistance rating after 1 pass 1 Transfer resistance rating on fabric after 1 pass of dry fabric 1

[0588] The composition of the invention Ex32 containing at least one compound a) (Isopropylidene glycerol) and a modified polysaccharide (Ethylcellulose), further comprising a crystallizable fat (Tribehenin), exhibits good dry wear resistance and good transfer resistance.

[0589] Evaluation of a composition of Ex33 Lipstick

[0590] The following example describes a liquid lipstick composition containing a mixture of Isododecane / Butyl lactate solvents.

[0591] [TableauxlO] Ingredients Ex3 3 ISODODECANE 32.00 BUTYL LACTATE (ESUN INDUSTRIAL CO., LTD) 33.00 DIISOSTEAROYL POLYGLYCERYL-3 DIMER DILI NOLEATE (60%) (and) CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE (40%) (SOLAMAZE NATURAL®-NOURYON) 15.00 ETHYLCELLULOSE (AQUALON EC N7 PHARM-ASHLAND) 5.00 SILICA (SILICA SHELLS KOBO) 5.00 RED 7 10.00 TOTAL (% By Mass) 100.00 % Polyester by Mass 9.00 TOTAL Polyester + Ethylcellulose (%) 14.00 TOTAL Volatile Alkanes + Polar Solvent (%) 65.00 Isododecane / Butyl Lactate Ratio 32 / 33=0.97 Operating procedure

[0592] In a beaker, polyester and ethylcellulose, silica, pigment (Red7), isododecane and butyl lactate are mixed. The mixture is stirred under rotor-stator stirring for 10 minutes at 800 rpm and then packaged.

[0593] Protocol for evaluating resistance to dry friction and in the presence of oil

[0594] Certain compositions are evaluated for their resistance to rubbing, by colorimetric measurements on dry film before and after abrasion, test whose protocol is detailed below.

[0595] Protocol for spreading compositions into a film:

[0596] The product is spread on a spreading bench (Elcometer 4340 Applicator) which allows for adjustment of both the speed and the distance over which it is spread. The bench is equipped with a suction system connected to a pump to prevent the support on which the spreading is performed from moving. Contrast cards with a black background and an uncoated white background are used (1 byko-chart, uncoated N2A, code 2831). The spreading thickness is adjustable using a square spreader placed on the support so that it spreads by leveling when the platform is switched on. Each section of the spreader allows for spreading to a different thickness ranging from 25 µm to 200 µm. The chosen thickness is 25 µm to approximate the thickness of the in vivo film. A weight of 960 g is added on top of the spreader during the spreading process. The spreading speed is set to 2.54cm / s. The films are dried for 24 hours at 34°C and ambient RH (50% RH) on a hot plate.

[0597] Friction resistance test protocol:

[0598] The abrasion resistance test is performed by colorimetric measurements on a dry film before and after abrasion. Abrasion is carried out by attaching a strip of tissue paper (Chicopee# Veraclean# Polish Plus) to the edge of the spreader at 25 µm. A 960 g weight is added on top of the spreader during abrasion. The bed speed is set at 2.54 cm / s.

[0599] The color measurement before and after abrasion is performed using a Konica Minolta CM-700d spectrophotometer. The contact measurement ensures the absence of light pollution.

[0600] Selected settings: Aperture 8 mm; Uncertainty: 0.04; Measurement SCI / SCE; Geometry d / 8°.

[0601] The color measurements on the two backgrounds (black background FN and white background FB) make it possible to characterize the coverage of a foundation by calculating the "contrast ratio", (CR%) i.e. YFN / YFB x 100, where YFN and YFB are respectively the luminance values ​​measured on black background and white background, the latter being higher the more covering the foundation.

[0602] To assess resistance to friction, the "Contrast Ratio" is measured before friction (CR Dry Deposition, %) and after abrasion (CR Dry Deposition, %). The ratio [CR Dry Deposition / CR Dry Deposition] * 100, expressed as a percentage, indicates the film's resistance to friction: the higher this ratio, the more resistant the film is to friction.

[0603] Note: To obtain each Contrast Ratio value, at least 2 contrast cards are used for each composition, which are evaluated with 3 CR measurements on each card. Each CR value therefore represents an average of 6 measurements.

[0604] In the olive oil resistance test, the film obtained from the prototype lipstick of composition Ex33 above shows good hold [CR Frot Olive Oil / CR Sec] (%) of 61.7+-3.7%.

[0605] The composition obtained conforms to the properties sought by the present invention, namely: stable (2 months at 45°C), allows the obtaining of a glossy film after spreading, of good homogeneity and sufficient coverage (CR > 50%), while succeeding in obtaining both better playtime and good hold on the skin, this from ingredients of the most natural origin possible.

Claims

Demands

1. Cosmetic composition, in particular makeup and / or skin and / or lip care, in particular skin, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: a. at least one saturated organic compound, linear or branched, cyclic or non-cyclic, of general formula CnH2nO3 in which the index n is an integer such that 5 < n < 9, preferably such that 6 < n < 9; and said compound comprises at least one hydroxyl group and at least one function selected from ester or ether; and b. at least one modified polysaccharide.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the flash point of said compound a) is between 20°C and 120°C, preferably between 25°C and 115°C, preferably between 30°C and 110°C, preferably between 35°C and 107°C, preferably between 40°C and 105°C, or even between 45°C and 100°C.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the vapor pressure of said compound a), at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, is in the range of 2.66 Pa to 40000 Pa, in particular from 2.66 Pa to 13000 Pa, in particular from 3 Pa to 2000 Pa, or even from 3 Pa to 1000 Pa, and in particular from 4 Pa ​​to 500 Pa.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein said compound a) is selected from those including a hydroxyl group and two ether functions, preferably comprising at least one cyclic ether function, preferably comprising a cyclic ether containing two ether functions, such as a dioxane ring or a dioxolane ring; preferably said compound a) comprises a hydroxyl group and a 1,3-dioxolane ring, and mixtures thereof; preferably the index n of compound a) is an integer such that 6 < n < 8; preferably said compound a) is selected from 2,2-Dimethyl-4-hydroxymethyl 1-1,3-dioxolane (or isopropylideneglycerol), 4-(2-Hydroxyethyl)-2,2-dimethyl-1,3-dioxolane, (4S)-(+)-4-(2-Hydroxyethyl)-2,2-dimethyl-1,3-dioxolane, and mixtures thereof.

5. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein said compound a) is selected from hydroxycarboxylic esters in which the index n is an integer such that 5 < n < 9, preferably such

6.

7. that 7 < n < 9; preferably said compound a) is selected from Ethyl Lactate, Propyl Lactate, Butyl Glycolate, Butyl Lactate, Isobutyl Lactate, Methyl 3-hydroxyhexanoate, tert-Butyl 3-hydroxypropionate, Amyl Lactate, Isoamyl Lactate, Hexyl Lactate, and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein compound a) is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 99% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 98% by weight, preferably from 1% to 95% by weight, preferably from 1% to 90%, preferably from 1% to 80% by weight, preferably from 1.5% to 70%, preferably from 1.5% to 60% by weight, preferably from 1.5% to 50% by weight, preferably from 2% to 40% by weight, preferably from 3% to 30% by weight, preferably from 4% to 25% by weight, or even from 5% to 20%, and preferably from 5% to 15% by weight of compound a), on the total weight of the composition representing 100%. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the polysaccharide(s) b) is / are selected from cationic, nonionic, anionic, or amphoteric polysaccharides, preferably nonionic, modified by the presence of at least one aliphatic hydrocarbon chain, cyclic or non-cyclic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or non-aromatic, comprising from 2 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more atoms or groups a), f), g), h), i), j), 1) as defined below and / or p) (di)alkylamino and / or optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups a') to c') as defined below: i) (C5-C28)alkyl, linear or branched, ii) (C5-C28)alkenyl, linear or branched, iii) (C5-C28)alkynyl, linear or branched, preferably the hydrocarbon group is linear;a) halogens such as chlorine or bromine, f) (thio)carboxamide -C(O)-N(Ra)2 or -C(S)-N(Ra)2, g) cyano, h) iso(thio)cyanate, i) (hetero)aryl such as phenyl or furyl, and j) (hetero)cycloalkyl such as anhydride, epoxide or dithiolane, 1) RX with R representing a group selected from a) cycloalkyl such as cyclohexyl, 2) heterocycloalkyl such as sugar, preferably monosaccharide such as glucose, y) (hetero)aryl such as phenyl, 3) cosmetic active, m) thiosulfate and X representing a') O, S, N(Ra) or Si(Rb)(Rc), b') S(O)r, or (thio)carbonyl, c') or combinations of a') with b') such as (thio)ester, (thio)amide, (thio)urea, sulfonamide; Ra representing a hydrogen atom, or an (Cl-C4)alkyl group;

8.

9. or aryl(Cl-C4)alkyl such as benzyl, preferably Ra represents a hydrogen atom; Rb and Rc, identical or different, represent a (Cl-C4)alkyl or (Cl-C4)alkoxy group, particularly a single substituent; and / or a') heteroatoms such as O, S, N(Ra), and Si(Rb)(Rc), b') S(O)r, (thio)carbonyl, c') or combinations of a') with b') such as (thio)ester, (thio)amide, (thio)urea, sulfonamide with r being 1 or 2, Ra being as defined above, preferably Ra represents a hydrogen atom, Rb and Rc being as defined above; preferably the modified polysaccharide is chosen from modified polysaccharides derived from gum arabic; ghatti gum; karaya gum; tragacanth gum; agar; alginates; carrageenans and furcelleranes; guar gum; locust bean gum; fenugreek gum; tamarind gum; konjac gum; xanthan gum or dehydroxanthan gum; gellan gum;scleroglucan gum; cellulose; starch; dextrin, pullulan, inulin; and pectin; preferably chosen from cellulose; starch; dextrin, pullulan, inulin, more preferably cellulose. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the modified polysaccharide is selected from: alkyl polysaccharides having an alkyl radical comprising between 2 and 30, preferably between 2 and 10, more preferably between 2 and 6 carbon atoms; preferably the modified polysaccharide is a cellulose or guar derivative; preferably the modified polysaccharide is an alkylcellulose having a linear or branched alkyl residue comprising between 1 and 10 carbon atoms, in particular between 2 and 6 carbon atoms, preferably between 2 and 3 carbon atoms, or an alkyl guar; preferably the modified polysaccharide is selected from ethylcellulose, and propylcellulose and ethyl guar, preferably ethylcellulose; polysaccharide esters; and mixtures thereof; preferably the modified polysaccharide is selected from dextrin palmitate, pullulan myristoyl, ethylcellulose and ethyl guar; preferably ethylcellulose. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the modified polysaccharide(s) is / are present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 25% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 20% in weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 15% by weight, preferably between 0.3% and 12%, preferably between 0.5% and 10%, preferably from 0.7% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and / or the weight ratio between compound(s) a) and modified polysaccharide(s) b) present in the composition, ranges from 0.05 to 200, more preferably from 0.1 to 100, more preferably from 0.2 to 50, or even better from 0.5 to 20, preferably from 0.5 to 10.

10. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one crystallizable fat(b) selected from crystallizable fats of animal or vegetable origin, esters of glycerol and C12-C24 fatty acids optionally substituted with a hydroxy group, and copolymers of sorbitol and C6-C16 difatty acids esterified with C12-C24 fatty acids, preferably from glycerol and behenic acid triester, glycerol and hydroxystearic acid triester, candelilla wax, sunflower wax, beeswax, carnauba wax, mixtures of mono-, di-, and triesters obtained from glycerol and behenic acid, and copolymers of sorbitol and sebacic acid esterified with behenic acid, preferably selected from glycerol and behenic acid, glycerol and hydroxystearic acid triester, and sunflower wax.

11. Composition according to claim 10, wherein the crystallizable fat is present in a content of between 0.01% and 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.1% and 15% by weight, preferably between 0.2% and 12% by weight, preferably between 1% and 10% by weight, preferably between 1% and 9% by weight, preferably between 1% and 8% by weight, advantageously between 1% and 7% by weight, preferably between 1% and 6% by weight, preferably between 1.5% and 5%, preferably between 1.5% and 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one polyester (c) which is the reaction product of the following components (i), (ii) and (iii): (i) at least one polyglycerol-3, (ii) at least one dimeric acid, and (iii) at least one mono-fatty acid having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the reacting components (i), (ii) and (iii) being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol- 3, from 0.5 to 1 mole of dimeric acid and from 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of mono-fatty acid; and / or preferably said polyester is a substantially or totally non-sequential reaction product; and / or preferably the polyester is prepared by a one-step process which involves the introduction of all the reactants into a reaction vessel and then the induction of a totally statistical addition of the dimeric acid and isostearic acid to polyglycerol-3.

13. Composition according to claim 12, characterized in that polyglycerol-3 is triglycerol alone or a mixture of polyglycerols comprising at least triglycerol; and preferably triglycerol is the major component in said mixture; preferably polyglycerol-3 is in mixture form and composed of at least 40% by weight, or at least 45% by weight, or at least 50% by weight, of a combination of diglycerol and triglycerol relative to the total weight of polyglycerol-3 in mixture form; preferably polyglycerol-3 is in mixture form and composed of at least 20% by weight, or at least 25% by weight of diglycerol; at least 15% by weight, or at least 18% by weight of triglycerol; at least 10% by weight, or at least 12% by weight of tetraglycerol, relative to the total weight of polyglycerol-3 in mixture form;preferably polyglycerol-3 is in mixture form and comprises at least 25% by weight of diglycerol, at least 45% by weight of triglycerol and at least 10% by weight of tetraglycerol, relative to the total weight of polyglycerol-3 in mixture form.

14. A composition according to any one of claims 12 or 13, characterized in that the polyester is a substantially or totally non-sequential reaction product of the following components: (i) at least one polyglycerol-3 in mixture form comprising at least 25% by weight of diglycerol, at least 45% by weight of triglycerol, and at least 10% by weight of tetraglycerol, in each case relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in mixture form; (ii) at least one hydrogenated dimeric acid containing at least 60% by weight of hydrogenated C36 diacid and 5 to 25% by weight of hydrogenated C54 triacid, in each case relative to the total weight of the hydrogenated acid; and (iii) isostearic acid; preferably the polyester is a reaction product of polyglycerol-3, C36 hydrogenated dimer acid and isostearic acid in a molar ratio of 1 / 0.5 / 1.

15. A composition according to any one of claims 12 to 14, characterized in that the polyester is in an oily solution comprising: a) a polyester obtained by reaction of: (i) Polyglycerol-3, and (ii) a C36 hydrogenated acid dimer; and (iii) isostearic acid; the reacting components (i), (ii) and (iii) being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of fatty acids; and b) at least one non-volatile oil, preferably at least one fatty acid triglyceride containing from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, more particularly 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and more particularly a caprylic / capric acid triglyceride; said mixture having more specifically the INCI name: Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate (and) Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride;preferably the oily solution contains the polyester at a concentration of 10 to 99% by weight, more preferably 30 to 90% by weight, more particularly 50 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture; preferably the oily solution comprises 40% by weight of caprylic / capric acid triglyceride and 60% by weight of Polyglycerol-3 polyester, C36 hydrogenated dimer acid and isostearic acid in a molar ratio of 1 / 0.5 / 1.

16. Composition according to any one of claims 12 to 15, characterized in that the polyester content, expressed as active polyester material, represents from 0.2 to 30%, preferably from 0.3% to 25%, preferably from 0.5% to 22%, preferably from 1% to 20%, or even from 1.5% to 20%, or from 2 to 18%, preferably from 2.5 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 3 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

17. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one compound selected from (d) pigment coloring materials; preferably compound (d) comprising: at least one mineral pigment selected from titanium dioxide, oxides of iron, zirconium or cerium oxides, zinc or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, metallic powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder, mother-of-pearl, monochromatic pigments, and mixtures thereof; and / or comprising at least one organic pigment selected from the compounds nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, of the metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone, and mixtures thereof; preferably the compound d) is chosen from mineral pigments, preferably from titanium dioxide, iron oxides, zirconium or cerium oxides, zinc or chromium oxides and mixtures thereof, preferably the pigment is chosen from titanium dioxide, iron oxides and mixtures thereof.

18. Composition according to claim 17, wherein the pigment(s) are uncoated and / or coated, preferably coated with at least one compound selected from: metallic soaps; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.

19. Composition according to any one of claims 17 or 18, wherein the pigment colouring matter is present in a content from 0.1% to 60% by weight, preferably from 1% to 40% by weight, and even more preferably from 1.5% to 30% by weight, or even from 2% to 25% and better from 3% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

20. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one linear or C2-C4 branched monoalcohol, preferably in a content of 50% or less by weight, preferably less than 40% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 30% by weight, advantageously less than or equal to 20%, preferably less than or equal to 15%, or even less than or equal to 10%, or even less than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; preferably, it is less than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 4%, preferably less than or equal to 3%, preferably less than or equal to 2%, of preference less than or equal to 1%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

21. Composition according to claim 20, wherein the content of linear or branched C2-C4 monoalcohol(s) is such that the weight ratio of the total amount of compound a) to the total amount of linear or branched C2-C4 monoalcohol(s) is greater than 1.

22. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one volatile oil and / or at least one non-volatile oil, preferably the weight ratio denoted R, of the sum of the masses of volatile oil(s) (VH) to the sum of the masses of non-volatile oil(s) (NVH), defined by: R = [Sum of masses of VH] / [Sum of masses of NVH], being such that 0 < R < 10,000, more particularly 0.01 < R < 1,000, more particularly 0.05 < R < 500, preferably 0.1 < R < 100, preferably 0.2 < R < 50, or even 0.5 < R < 10.

23. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil other than compound a), preferably selected from volatile nonpolar hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, preferably selected from: C8-C16 isoalkanes such as isododecane, isodecane, or isohexadecane; C6-C16 linear alkanes, in particular C11-C15, alone or in mixtures, such as hexane, decane, undecane, tridecane, n-dodecane (C12), n-tetradecane (C14), in particular the undecane-tridecane mixture, mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C14); plant-derived alkanes, particularly from coconut, or mixtures of C13-C15 alkanes; and mixtures thereof.

24. Composition according to claim 23, characterized in that the weight ratio of the quantity of volatile oil(s) to the quantity of compound a) is within the range preferably of 0.01 to 100, preferably of 0.05 to 10; preferably of 0.1 to 5; preferably of 0.1 to 3; preferably of 0.1 to 1.5; preferably of 0.2 to 1.

25. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises less than 10% by weight of silicone oil, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.3% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight of silicone oil, preferably silicone, preferably the composition is totally free of silicone.

26. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises an oily phase, with a content in the range of 5 to 100%, preferably 10 to 98% by weight, preferably 20 to 90% by weight, preferably 30 to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

27. ​​Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises an aqueous phase, with a content in the range of 2 to 95% by weight, preferably 5 to 90% by weight, preferably 10 to 80% by weight, more particularly 15 to 70% by weight, preferably 20 to 60% by weight, preferably 20 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

28. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of an anhydrous composition, a water-in-oil emulsion or an oil-in-water emulsion, a multiple emulsion, or an aqueous composition.

29. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one additive selected from: active ingredients such as vitamins, anti-aging actives; UV filters other than compound d); fillers; lipophilic thickeners; surfactants; perfumes; preservatives; and mixtures thereof.

30. A method for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or hair, characterized in that it comprises at least the application to the skin and / or hair of a composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 29.