SKINCARE AND / OR MAKE-UP COMPOSITION OF KERATINOUS MATERIALS

Abstract

SKINCARE AND / OR MAKE-UP COMPOSITION FOR KERATINOUS MATERIALS The present invention relates to a skincare and / or makeup composition for keratinous materials, comprising: (i) at least one surfactant selected from surfactins, their derivatives, and mixtures thereof; (ii) at least 2% by weight of at least one wax with a melting point of at least 60°C, relative to the total weight of the composition; and (iii) at least one paste-like compound. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for skincare and / or makeup of keratinous materials. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: SKINCARE AND / OR MAKE-UP COMPOSITION OF KERATINOUS MATERIALS Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition. In particular, the present invention relates to a skincare and / or makeup composition of keratinous materials. Furthermore, the present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for skincare and / or makeup of keratinous materials. CONTEXT OF THE INVENTION

[0002] The development of products dedicated to the care and / or makeup of the skin and / or lips is ongoing.

[0003] Today, in the cosmetics market, there is not only a demand for skincare products that penetrate the skin quickly, but also a growing demand for products offering unique user experiences.

[0004] The uniqueness of the user experience plays an increasingly important role in the choice of cosmetic products. For example, a transformation of texture upon application is becoming increasingly popular with consumers. It is pleasant to feel a sensation of texture breaking when applying cosmetic products to the skin.

[0005] It is also desired that the cosmetic composition be stable over time.

[0006] Some products containing oils are not satisfactory because they are not stable and there will be phase separation after a short period of storage.

[0007] Thus, there is always a need to formulate a stable skincare and / or makeup composition of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin, which can deliver a breaking sensation and have a shorter penetration time, for example less than 25 seconds.

[0008] Furthermore, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, which are designed and developed taking environmental issues into account, is becoming a major objective in an effort to meet global challenges.

[0009] It is therefore essential to propose more sustainable compositions to address these environmental concerns.

[0010] In this context, it is important to develop new environmentally friendly ingredients and / or active principles, particularly those of natural origin, more specifically bio-based and / or derived from sustainable non-petrochemical sources, and / or biodegradable and / or obtained through extraction processes requiring low energy and water consumption in order to offer compositions that reduce the environmental impact of products. Summary of the invention

[0011] The inventors have now discovered that it is possible to formulate such compositions having the desired properties as described above.

[0012] Specifically, the inventors have discovered that it is possible to formulate stable compositions, preferably skincare and / or makeup, of keratinous materials, which can deliver a sensation of breaking and have a shorter penetration time, for example less than 25 seconds.

[0013] Consequently, according to a first aspect, the present invention relates to a composition, preferably for skincare and / or makeup, of keratinous materials, comprising: i. at least one surfactant chosen from surfactins, their derivatives, and mixtures thereof; ii. at least 2% by weight of at least one wax with a melting point of at least 60 °C, relative to the total weight of the composition; and iii. at least one pasty compound.

[0014] The inventors have discovered that the composition according to the present invention is stable and may exhibit a breaking sensation during application and may have a shorter penetration time.

[0015] According to a second aspect, the present invention relates to a non-therapeutic method for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising the application of the composition according to the present invention on the keratinous materials.

[0016] Other subjects and features, aspects and advantages of the present invention will be presented in the following description and, in part, will emerge from the description, or can be learned through practice of the present invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0017] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as that commonly understood by a person skilled in the art of the present invention. Where the definition of a term in this description conflicts with the meaning commonly understood by a person skilled in the art of the present invention, the definition described herein shall apply.

[0018] In what follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values ​​are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between...and..." and "from...to...".

[0019] Furthermore, the expression "at least one" used in this description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

[0020] Throughout this application, the term "including" shall be interpreted as encompassing all the specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, unspecified features. As used herein, the use of the term "including" also discloses the embodiment in which no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e., "consisting of").

[0021] Unless otherwise stated, all numerical values ​​expressing a quantity of ingredients and the like used in the description and claims shall be understood as modified by the term "approximately". Consequently, unless otherwise stated, the numerical values ​​and parameters described herein are approximate values ​​which, if necessary, may be changed according to the desired purpose.

[0022] As used herein, the expression "keratinous materials" refers to the skin and lips. "Skin" means all the skin of the body, including the scalp. Preferably, the keratinous material is the skin of the face.

[0023] In the present invention, all percentages refer, unless otherwise specified, to a percentage by weight.

[0024] The composition according to the present invention comprises: i. at least one surfactant chosen from surfactins, their derivatives, and mixtures thereof; ii. at least 2% by weight of at least one wax with a melting point of at least 60 °C, relative to the total weight of the composition; and iii. at least one pasty compound. Surfactin and / or its derivatives

[0025] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one surfactant selected from surfactins, their derivatives and mixtures thereof.

[0026] Surfactins are cyclic lipopeptides composed of seven amino acids linked to a [3-hydroxy] fatty acid.

[0027] Other specific examples of surfactin include the compounds represented by the following formula (I): 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 ® RCÏÏCH2CO-£~Glu~£”LeU'£)~Leu~£~W^ I---------------.-------------------------O------------------------------.

[0028] wherein X represents an amino acid residue selected from leucine, isoleucine, valine, glycine, serine, alanine, threonine, asparagine, glutamine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, lysine, arginine, cysteine, the methionine, phenylalanine, tyrosine, tryptophan, histidine, proline, 4-hydroxyproline, and homoserine,

[0029] R represents an alkyl group having 8 to 14 carbon atoms.

[0030] Preferably, X is chosen from leucine, isoleucine, valine, asparagine and glutamine.

[0031] Surfactin derivatives include surfactin analogues in which one or more amino acids of formula (I) are substituted by other amino acids. Examples of these include compounds in which the amino acid in the second position, namely L-leucine, the amino acid in the fourth position, namely L-valine, and the amino acid in the sixth position, namely D-leucine, are independently substituted by an amino acid selected from leucine, isoleucine, valine, glycine, serine, alanine, threonine, asparagine, glutamine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, lysine, arginine, cysteine, methionine, phenylalanine, tyrosine, tryptophan, histidine, proline, 4-hydroxyproline, and homoserine.

[0032] Surfactin derivatives also include inorganic or organic salts of the compound represented by formula (I). In the case where the surfactant is an inorganic salt, a metal that is a counterion is not particularly limited as long as the counterion can form a salt with a surfactin. Examples of counterions include, but are not limited to, alkali metals such as sodium, potassium, and lithium; and alkaline earth metals such as calcium and magnesium. In the case where the surfactant is an organic salt, examples include a trimethylamine salt, a triethylamine salt, a tributylamine salt, a monoethanolamine salt, a diethanolamine salt, a triethanolamine salt, a lysine salt, an arginine salt, and a choline salt.

[0033] Preferably, the surfactant selected from surfactins, their derivatives and mixtures thereof is selected from surfactins of formula (I), organic salts and inorganic salts thereof.

[0034] More preferably, the surfactant selected from surfactins, their derivatives and mixtures thereof is selected from surfactins of formula (I), sodium salts, potassium salts, monoethanolamine salts, diethanolamine salts, triethanolamine salts, lysine salts and arginine salts thereof.

[0035] Even more preferably, the surfactant selected from surfactins, their derivatives and mixtures thereof is chosen from sodium salts, potassium salts of surfactins of formula (I), and their combinations.

[0036] Advantageously, the surfactant chosen from surfactins, their derivatives, and mixtures thereof, is present in the composition according to the present invention in a quantity ranging from 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.02% by weight to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% by weight to 2% by weight, even more preferably from 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Waxes

[0037] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least 2% by weight of at least one wax with a melting point of at least 60 °C, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0038] Preferably, the wax has a melting point of 60 °C to 90 °C, preferably of 60 °C to 85 °C, more preferably of 65 °C to 80 °C.

[0039] As used herein, the term “wax” refers to a lipophilic fatty compound with reversible solid / liquid phase change, which is solid at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

[0040] For the purposes of the invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed during thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a Differential Scanning Calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC Q2000 by TA Instruments.

[0041] The measurement protocol is as follows:

[0042] A sample of approximately 5 mg of wax is placed in a crucible in a "hermetically sealed aluminium capsule".

[0043] The sample is subjected to a first temperature increase from -20 °C to 120 °C at a heating rate of 10 °C / minute. It is then cooled from 120 °C to -20 °C at a cooling rate of 10 °C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature increase from -20 °C to 120 °C at a heating rate of 5 °C / minute. During the second temperature increase, the melting point of the wax is measured. This value corresponds to the peak of the most endothermic peak observed on the melting curve, representing the variation of the difference in absorbed power as a function of temperature.

[0044] The waxes may be hydrocarbon-based waxes, silicone waxes and / or fluorinated waxes, and may be of vegetable, mineral and / or synthetic origin.

[0045] Preferably, the oil is chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils.

[0046] Examples of hydrocarbon-based waxes include beeswax, Chinese insect wax, rice wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, lacquer wax, Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax, montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins, ozokerite, polyethylene waxes, and waxes of polymethylene, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and solid fatty alcohols containing 20 to 40 carbon atoms.

[0047] Examples of solid fatty alcohols containing 20 to 40 carbon atoms include arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, ceranyl alcohol, montanyl alcohol, dotriacontanol, triacontanol, hentriacontanol, tetratriacontanol, pentatriacontanol, hexatriacontanol, heptatriacontanol, octatriacontanol, nonatriacontanol and tetracontanol.

[0048] More preferably, the wax is chosen from beeswax, Chinese insect wax, camauba wax, candelilla wax, Helianthus annuus (sunflower) wax, solid fatty alcohols containing 20 to 30 carbon atoms, and their combinations.

[0049] Even more preferably, the wax is chosen from Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax, behenyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and combinations thereof.

[0050] Advantageously, the wax with a melting point of at least 60 °C is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 2% by weight to 15% by weight, preferably from 2.5% by weight to 10% by weight, more preferably from 3% by weight to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Pasty compounds

[0051] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one paste compound.

[0052] As used here, the term "pasty" refers to a lipophilic compound with a reversible solid / liquid change of state, having in particular in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization and comprising a liquid fraction and a solid fraction at room temperature.

[0053] In other words, the initial melting point of the paste compound may be lower than room temperature. The liquid fraction of the paste compound, measured at room temperature, may represent 9% to 97% by weight of the paste compound. This fraction, which is liquid at room temperature, preferably represents between 15% and 85%, more preferably between 40% and 85%, by weight.

[0054] The melting point of the paste compound can be determined according to the measurement protocol for waxes.

[0055] In particular, the melting point of the paste-like compound is determined as follows:

[0056] a 5 mg sample of a pasty compound placed in a crucible is subjected to a The first temperature increase, from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 10°C / minute, is followed by cooling from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C / minute, and finally by a second temperature increase from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C / minute. The melting point of The pasty compound is the temperature value corresponding to the peak of the curve representing the variation of the difference in absorbed power as a function of temperature.

[0057] It should be noted that the liquid fraction by weight of the paste compound at room temperature is equal to the ratio between the heat of fusion consumed at room temperature and the heat of fusion of the paste compound.

[0058] The heat of fusion of the paste-like compound is the heat consumed by said substance to change from a solid to a liquid state. The paste-like compound is said to be in a solid state when all of its mass is in crystalline solid form. The paste-like compound is said to be in a liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form.

[0059] The heat of fusion of the paste-like compound is the amount of energy required to change the paste-like compound from a solid to a liquid state. It is expressed in J / g. The heat of fusion of the paste-like compound is equal to the area under the curve of the resulting thermogram.

[0060] The paste compound can be chosen from synthetic paste compounds and paste compounds of vegetable origin.

[0061] Examples of pasty compound(s) include:

[0062] - lanolin and its derivatives, such as lanolin alcohol, oxyethylenated lanolins, acetylated lanolin, lanolin esters such as isopropyl lanolate and oxypropylened lanolins,

[0063] - petroleum jelly (also called petrolatum),

[0064] - C2-C4 pentaerythritol and polyalkylene glycol ethers, for example The compounds with the following INCI names: PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, and mixtures thereof. For example, the mixture sold under the name Lanolide by the company Vevy,

[0065] - lipophilic polyethers resulting from polyetherification between a or Several diols in the C2-C100 and preferably C2-C50 ranges. Among the liposoluble polyethers, particular consideration is given to copolymers of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with long-chain C6-C30 alkylene oxides, more preferably such that the weight ratio of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide to alkylene oxides in the copolymer is from 5:95 to 70:30. In this family, mention should be made of the product bearing the INCI name PEG-45 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer, sold, for example, under the brand name Elfacos ST9 by Akzo Nobel.

[0066] - esters resulting from the condensation of a C6-C20 dicarboxylic acid, preferably saturated, linear or branched, and a diglycerol ester, and linear or branched C6-C20 monocarboxylic acids, preferably saturated, optionally hydroxylated, in particular the diester obtained by condensation of acid adipic and a mixture of diglycerol esters with a mixture of C6-C20 fatty acids, such as caprylic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, sold in particular under the reference Softisan 649 by the company Cremer Oleo (INCI name: Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2),

[0067] - fatty acid triglycerides that are optionally hydrogenated (totally or partially), saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally mono- or polyhydroxylated, preferably C12-C18; for example, C12-C18 saturated fatty acid glycerides sold under the name Softisan 100 by the company Cremer Oleo (INCI name: Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides),

[0068] - dimer diol esters, or polyol esters, and diacid dimer esters, for example:

[0069] - the dimer esters of dilinolylic alcohol and dilinolylic acid, of which the groups hydroxyl are esterified with a mixture of phytosterols, behenyl alcohol and isostearyl alcohol, for example the ester sold under the name Plandool G by the company Nippon Fine Chemical (INCI name: Bis-Behenyl I Isostearyl I Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate);

[0070] - dilinoleic acid esters and a mixture of phytosterols, alcohol isostearyl, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, for example the ester sold under the name Plandool H or Plandool S by the company Nippon Fine Chemical (INCI name: Phytosteryl / Isostearyl / Cetyl / Stearyl / Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate);

[0071] - butters of vegetable origin, such as mango butter, such as the product sold under the name Lipex 203 by the company Aarhuskarlshamn, shea butter, in particular the product whose INCI name is Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, such as the product sold under the reference Sheasoft by the company Aarhuskarlshamn, cupuacu butter (Rain Forest RF3410 from the company Beraca Sahara), murumuru butter (Rain Forest RF3710 from the company Beraca Sahara), cocoa butter;

[0072] - vegetable oils that are fully or partially hydrogenated, for example hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, mixtures of hydrogenated vegetable oils such as the mixture of hydrogenated soybean, coconut, palm and rapeseed vegetable oil, for example the mixture sold under the reference Akogel by the company Aarhuskarlshamn (INCI name Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), partially hydrogenated trans-isomerized jojoba oil manufactured or sold by the company Desert Whale under the trade name Iso-Jojoba-50, partially hydrogenated olive oil, for example the compound sold under the reference Beurrolive by the company Soliance,

[0073] - hydrogenated castor oil esters, such as castor oil dimer dilinoleate hydrogenated castor oil, for example Risocast-DA-L sold by Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo, and hydrogenated castor oil isostearate, for example Salacos HCIS (VL) sold by Nisshin Oil,

[0074] - and their mixtures.

[0075] Preferably, the pasty compound is chosen from among the hydrogenated triglycerides of linear or branched C12-C18 fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, butters of vegetable origin, and their mixtures.

[0076] More preferably, the paste compound is chosen from hydrogenated coco-glycerides, mango butter, shea butter, cupuacu butter, murumuru butter, cocoa butter, and mixtures thereof.

[0077] Advantageously, the pasty compound is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.3% by weight to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% by weight to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.8% by weight to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Thickeners

[0078] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises a thickener.

[0079] Preferably, the thickener is chosen from (meth)acrylic acid or (meth)acrylate polymers optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized.

[0080] More preferably, the thickener is chosen from optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized homopolymers of (meth)acrylic acid or their Cl-C4i alkyl esters, and copolymers of one or more (meth)acrylic acid monomers and their C1-C4 alkyl esters, and a hydrophobic comonomer.

[0081] Preferably, the hydrophobic comonomer is chosen from C8-C50 alkyl esters, preferably C10-C40 alkyl esters, more preferably C10-C30 alkyl esters of an unsaturated carboxylic acid.

[0082] More preferably, the hydrophobic comonomer is chosen from the C8-C50 alkyl esters of an unsaturated carboxylic acid corresponding to formula (II) below: Formula (II) --Q---v R, O

[0083] in which R2 designates H or CH3 or C2H5 (i.e. acrylate, methacrylate or ethacrylate motifs) and, preferably, H (acrylate motifs) or CH3 (methacrylate motifs), Ri designates a C8-C50 alkyl radical, preferably a C10-C40 alkyl radical, more preferably a C10-C30 alkyl radical.

[0084] C8-C50 alkyl esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids include, for example, lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate and dodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate and dodecyl methacrylate.

[0085] Even more preferably, the thickener is chosen from

[0086] - neutralized homopolymers of (meth)acrylic acid;

[0087] - copolymers formed from a mixture of monomers comprising: i. at least one of (meth)acrylic acid, methyl (meth)acrylates and ethyl (meth)acrylate, ii. an ester of formula (II) described above and in which R2 denotes H or CH3, Ri denotes a C10-C30 alkyl radical, and iii. a crosslinking agent, which is a well-known copolymerizable unsaturated polyethylene monomer, for example allyl sucrose ether, allyl pentaerythritol ether, diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or methyl lenebis acrylamide.

[0088] Most preferably, the thickener is chosen from sodium carbomer, C10-30 acrylate / alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer, and their combinations.

[0089] Advantageously, the thickener is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.02% by weight to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.03% by weight to 1.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% by weight to 0.8% by weight, most preferably from 0.1% by weight to 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Alkyl polyglucosides

[0090] Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises an alkyl polyglycoside.

[0091] Preferably, the alkyl polyglucoside that can be used is chosen from those of formula (III):

[0092] RO-Gx (III)

[0093] in which

[0094] - R is an alkyl group in C6-C22,

[0095] - G is a glucoside motif, and

[0096] - x' represents the average degree of polymerization of the alkyl polyglucoside from 1 to 10.

[0097] For a preferred alkyl polyglycoside, x' can only take integral values. In any physical sample of alkyl polyglucosides, there will generally be molecules with different x' values. The physical sample can be characterized by the average value of x', which can take on non-integer values. In this disclosure, the values ​​of x' should be understood as average values.

[0098] The hydrophilic polysaccharide portion of the alkyl polyglucoside contains from about 1 to about 10 saccharide motifs on average.

[0099] The hydrophobic group on the alkyl polyglycoside is an alkyl group, linear or branched, containing from about 6 to about 22 carbon atoms on average. Preferably, the alkyl group is primarily a C8 to C22 alkyl group, preferably a C10 to C22- alkyl group.

[0100] More preferably, in formula (III):

[0101] -Remains an alkyl group in C10-C22,

[0102] - G is a glucoside motif,

[0103] - X' is worth from 1 to 3.

[0104] Even more preferentially, the alkyl polyglucoside is selected from among the C12-C20 alkyl glucosides.

[0105] More preferably, the alkyl polyglucoside is chosen from lauryl glucoside, coco-glucoside, myristyl glucoside, palmistry glucoside, cetearyl glucoside, octyldodecyl glucoside, isostearyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside, and one of their combinations.

[0106] In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises arachidyl glucoside.

[0107] Advantageously, the alkyl polyglucoside is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01% by weight to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% by weight to 3% by weight, even more preferably from 0.1% by weight to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Oils

[0108] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises an oil.

[0109] As used herein, the term "oil" refers to a fatty compound or oily substance that is in liquid form at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). Oils commonly used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination.

[0110] The oil suitable for the composition according to the present invention is not particularly limited.

[0111] For example, the oil can be chosen from vegetable oils, synthetic oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0112] Examples of vegetable oils include linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, oil avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0113] Examples of synthetic oils include ester oils, ether oils, hydrocarbon oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0114] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one oil selected from ester oils, ether oils, and their combinations.

[0115] Ester oils may be liquid esters of Ci-C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of Ci-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, preferably C2-Ci0, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10, such as dicaprylyl carbonate.

[0116] As an example of ether oils, dicaprylyl ether may be cited.

[0117] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one oil selected from dicaprylyl carbonate, dicaprylyl ether, and their combinations.

[0118] Advantageously, the oil is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 1% by weight to 40% by weight, preferably from 3% by weight to 35% by weight, more preferably from 5% by weight to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Water

[0119] Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises water.

[0120] Preferably, water is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 40% by weight to 88% by weight, preferably from 50% by weight to 86% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Active cosmetic ingredients

[0121] The composition of the present invention may include one or more cosmetic active ingredients, such as capryloyl salicylic acid, niacinamide, etc.

[0122] It is easy for a person skilled in the art to adjust the quantity of cosmetic active agents according to the end use of the composition of the present invention. Additional adjuvants or additives

[0123] The composition of the present invention may also contain conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, for example preservatives and bactericides, such as hydroxyacetophenone, pH regulators, and mixtures thereof.

[0124] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention has a pH value of 4.5 to 8, preferably 5 to 8, more preferably 6 to 7.

[0125] A person skilled in the art can adjust the quantity of additional adjuvants or additives so as not to have a negative impact on the final use of the composition according to the present invention.

[0126] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the present invention proposes a composition, preferably for skincare and / or makeup, of keratinous materials comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: i. from 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight of at least one surfactant selected from sodium salts, potassium salts of surfactins of formula (I), and their combinations; ii. from 3% by weight to 8% by weight of at least one wax with a melting point of at least 60 °C chosen from Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax, behenyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and combinations thereof; and iii. from 0.8% by weight to 8% by weight of at least one paste compound selected from hydrogenated coco-glycerides, mango butter, shea butter, cupuacu butter, murumuru butter, cocoa butter, and mixtures thereof. Method and use

[0127] The composition of the present invention can be used for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials.

[0128] According to the second aspect, the present invention relates to a non-therapeutic method for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising the application of the composition according to the first aspect of the present invention on the keratinous materials.

[0129] In particular, keratinous materials can be skin, for example facial skin. EXAMPLES

[0130] The following examples are given by way of non-limiting illustrations of the present invention.

[0131] The main raw materials used, their trade names and suppliers are listed in Table 1.

[0132] [Tables 1] INCI Name Trade Name Supplier Sodium Surfactin (Sodium surfactin) Sodium surfactin BLOOMAGE BIOTE TECHNOLOGY Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax (Helianthus annuus (sun flower) seed wax) E00167 SUNFLOWE R WAX KOSTER KEUNEN Arachidyl alcohol (and) arachidyl alcohol (and) arachidyl glucoside (A rachidyl alcohol (and) behenyl alcoh ol (and) arachidyl glucoside) MONTANOV 202 SEPPIC Beeswax BEESWAX WHITE SUSTAINABLE 100 KOSTER KEUNEN Astrocaryum m urumuru seed butter (Astrocaryum murumuru s eed butter) RAIN FOREST 0371 0 BERACA INGR. NATURAIS (CLARIAN T) Hydrogenated coco-glycerides SOFTISAN 100 IOI GROUP OLEOC HEMICALS Butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter FAIR FOR LIFE REF INED SHEA BUTTER R OLVEA Acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer CARBOPOL ULTRE Z 20 POLYMER LUBRIZOL Sodium carbomer AQUPEC MG N40R SUMITOMO SEIKA Inventive examples 1 and comparative examples 1 to 3

[0133] Compositions of inventive example (El) 1 and comparative examples (EC) 1 to 3 were prepared on the basis of the quantities of components given in Table 2. The quantities are given as % by weight of each component relative to the total weight of each composition.

[0134] [Tables2] Components El. 1 EC. 1 EC. 2 EC. 3 Sodium surfactin 0.3 0.3 0.3 0 Arachidyl alcohol (and) behenyl alcohol (and) arachidyl glucoside 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax 2 2 0 2 Behenyl alcohol 0 2 0 0 Beeswax 0 3 0 0 Astrocaryum murumuru seed butter 3 0 3 3 Hydrogenated coco-glycerides 2 0 2 2 Butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter 0 0 2 0 Dicaprylyl carbonate 4 4 ​​4 4 Dicaprylyl ether 6 6 6 6 C10-30 alkyl acrylate / crosslinked polymer 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Sodium carbomer 0.35 0.35 0.35 0.35 Capryloyl salicylic acid 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Niacinamide 2 2 2 2 Hydroxyacetophenone 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Sodium hydroxide pH 6.5 pH 6.5 pH 6.5 pH 6.5 Water QS 100 QS 100 QS 100 QS 100

[0135]

[0136]

[0137]

[0138]

[0139]

[0140] The composition of inventive example 1 represents a composition according to the present invention. The composition of comparative example 1 does not include at least one pasty compound. The composition of comparative example 2 includes less than 2% by weight of at least one wax with a melting point of at least 60°C. The composition of comparative example 3 does not include at least one surfactant chosen from among the surfactins and their derivatives. Preparation method: The compositions listed above were prepared as follows: 1. mixture of arachidyl alcohol (and) behenyl alcohol (and) arachidyl glucoside, helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax (if present), behenyl alcohol (if present), beeswax (if present), astrocaryum murumuru seed butter (if present), hydrogenated coco-glycerides (if present), butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter (if present), dicaprylyl carbonate and dicaprylyl ether at 75 °C with stirring to obtain a homogeneous mixture A. 2. Addition of sodium surfactin (if present) to water at 75 °C with homogenization to obtain a homogeneous mixture B. 3. Introduction of mixture A into mixture B under stirring at 75 °C for 10 minutes to obtain mixture C. 4. Introduction of the C10-30 acrylate / alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer into mixture B at 60 °C with homogenization for 10 minutes, then stirring to cool to room temperature. 5. Introduction of sodium hydroxide to adjust the pH to 6.5 to obtain each composition. Composition evaluation

[0141] The stability and penetration time of the compositions of inventive example 1 and comparative examples 1 to 3, and the sensation thus delivered, were evaluated. Stability

[0142] The stability of each composition of inventive examples 1 and 2 and comparative examples 1 to 3 was evaluated by centrifugation at 25 °C, 900 rpm for 1 hour. If there is phase separation, then the composition under test fails the stability test, and if there is no separation, then the composition under test passes the stability test. Break point and penetration time

[0143] The penetration time of each composition of inventive example 1 and comparative examples 1 to 3 and the sensation of rupture thus delivered were evaluated by 5 skin experts as follows.

[0144] 0.1 ml of a sample to be evaluated was taken from the back of a hand using a pipette and applied with fingers for 5 turns (1 turn / second, applied in diameter of 5 cm) and the sensation of breaking was noted by each skin expert in a range of 1 to 5 according to the following standard, then its average was calculated.

[0145] 1: no change in sensation

[0146] 2: from a thick consistency to slightly thinner

[0147] 3: of a thick to thin consistency, the skin appears slightly watery

[0148] 4: of a thick to fluid consistency, the skin appears aqueous and slightly slippery

[0149] 5: of a thick to fluid consistency, the skin appears aqueous and very slippery

[0150] Next, the application is continued until the sample to be evaluated is fully absorbed; the penetration time from the start of the application until the sample is fully absorbed was recorded by each skin expert and its average was calculated.

[0151] The results of the evaluation of the stability and penetration time of the compositions of inventive example 1 and comparative examples 1 to 3 and of the sensation of rupture thus delivered are summarized in Table 3.

[0152] [Tables3] Properties El. 1 EC. 1 EC.2 EC.3 Stability Success Success Success Failure Sensation of rupture (score) 4.4 1.2 4.0 ND Penetration time (s) 22.6 11.6 43.4 ND

[0153] NA means not evaluated.

[0154] It can be seen from Table 3 that the composition of inventive example 1 is stable and can penetrate in a short time and deliver a sensation of rupture.

Claims

Demands

1. Composition, preferably for skincare and / or makeup, of keratinous materials, comprising: (i) at least one surfactant selected from surfactins, their derivatives, and mixtures thereof; (ii) at least 2% by weight of at least one wax with a melting point of at least 60°C, relative to the total weight of the composition; and (iii) at least one paste compound.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the surfactant selected from surfactins, their derivatives, and mixtures thereof is selected from surfactins of formula (I), their organic salts and their inorganic salts, 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 ® RCH.CILCO-Leu- Leu Val -£-Asp-jÿ-Leu-^-X ।-------------------------o---------------------- wherein - X represents an amino acid residue selected from leucine, isoleucine, valine, glycine, serine, alanine, threonine, asparagine, glutamine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, lysine, arginine, cysteine, methionine, phenylalanine, tyrosine, tryptophan, histidine, proline, the 4-Hydroxyproline, and homoserine, preferably X is chosen from leucine, isoleucine, valine, asparagine and glutamine, - R represents an alkyl group having 8 to 14 carbon atoms, preferably the surfactant selected from the surfactins,their derivatives and mixtures thereof is selected from surfactins of formula (I), sodium salts, potassium salts, monoethanolamine salts, diethanolamine salts, triethanolamine salts, lysine salts and arginine salts thereof; more preferably, the surfactant selected from surfactins, their derivatives and mixtures thereof is selected from sodium salts, potassium salts of surfactins of formula (I), and their combinations.

3. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2, wherein the wax has a melting point of 60 °C to 90 °C, preferably 60 °C to 85 °C, more preferably 65 °C to 80 °C.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the wax is selected from hydrocarbon-based waxes, preferably the wax is selected from beeswax, Chinese insect wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax, solid fatty alcohols containing 20 to 30 carbon atoms, and combinations thereof, more preferably the wax is selected from Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax, behenyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and combinations thereof.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the paste compound is selected from hydrogenated triglycerides of linear or branched C12-C18 fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, vegetable butters, and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from hydrogenated coco-glycerides, mango butter, shea butter, cupuacu butter, murumuru butter, cocoa butter, and mixtures thereof.

6. Composition according to claim 1, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: (i) 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight of at least one surfactant selected from sodium salts, potassium salts of surfactins of formula (I), and combinations thereof; (ii) 3% by weight to 8% by weight of at least one wax with a melting point of at least 60 °C selected from Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax, behenyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and combinations thereof; and (iii) 0.8% by weight to 8% by weight of at least one paste compound selected from hydrogenated coco-glycerides, mango butter, shea butter, cupuacu butter, murumuru butter, cocoa butter, and mixtures thereof.

7. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, further comprising a thickener, preferably the thickener being selected from optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized (meth)acrylic acid or (meth)acrylate polymers, more preferably the thickener being selected from optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized (meth)acrylic acid homopolymers or their C1-C4 alkyl esters, and copolymers of one or more (meth)acrylic acid monomers and their C1-C4 alkyl esters, and a hydrophobic comonomer, preferably the hydrophobic comonomer is chosen from the C8-C50 alkyl ester of an unsaturated carboxylic acid, more preferably, the hydrophobic comonomer is chosen from the C8-C50 alkyl esters of an unsaturated carboxylic acid corresponding to formula (II) below: Formula (II) H, ---C---v " 1 II Ra O in which R2 denotes H or CH3 or C2H5, Ri denotes a C8-C50 alkyl radical, preferably a C10-C40 alkyl radical, more preferably a C10-C30 alkyl radical, even more preferably, the thickener is chosen from the sodium carbomer, C10-30 acrylate / alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer, and their combinations.

8. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, further comprising at least one alkyl polyglucoside, preferably the alkyl polyglucoside being selected from those of formula (III): RO-Gx (III) in which - R is a C6-C22 alkyl group, preferably a C10-C22 alkyl group, - G is a glucoside motif, and - x' represents the average degree of polymerization of the alkyl polyglucoside from 1 to 10, preferably from 1 to 3, more preferably, the alkyl polyglucoside being selected from C12-C20 alkyl glucosides, even more preferably the alkyl polyglucoside being selected from lauryl glucoside, coco-glucoside, myristyl glucoside, palmistry glucoside, cetearyl glucoside, octyldodecyl glucoside, isostearyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside, and any combination thereof, preferably, alkyl polyglucoside is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01% by weight to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0,0.5% by weight to 3% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.1% by weight to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the composition has a pH value of 4.5 to 8, preferably 5 to 8, more preferably 6 to 7.

10. Non-therapeutic method of care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising the application of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 on keratinous materials.