SKINCARE AND / OR MAKE-UP COMPOSITION OF KERATINOUS MATERIALS

Abstract

SKINCARE AND / OR MAKE-UP COMPOSITION FOR KERATINOUS MATERIALS The present invention relates to a skincare and / or makeup composition for keratinous materials comprising: (i) at least one surfactant selected from surfactins, their derivatives, and mixtures thereof; (ii) at least one alkyl polyglucoside; and (iii) at least 12% by weight of at least one fatty compound, relative to the total weight of the composition. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for skincare and / or makeup of keratinous materials. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: SKINCARE AND / OR MAKE-UP COMPOSITION OF KERATINOUS MATERIALS Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition. In particular, the present invention relates to a skincare and / or makeup composition of keratinous materials. The present invention further relates to a non-therapeutic method for skincare and / or makeup of keratinous materials. CONTEXT OF THE INVENTION

[0002] The development of formulations dedicated to the care and / or makeup of the skin and / or lips is ongoing.

[0003] For example, some products are developed to nourish the skin by forming a nourishing film on the skin.

[0004] There are certain commercial products for nourishing the skin that include a large amount of oil.

[0005] However, some products containing a large amount of oil are not satisfactory because they give a greasy feeling.

[0006] It is desirable that cosmetic compositions do not deliver a strong oily character.

[0007] It is also desired that the skin-nourishing products be stable.

[0008] Thus, there is always a need to formulate a stable skincare and makeup composition of keratinous materials, particularly of the skin, which can nourish the keratinous materials, particularly the skin, and / or deliver a feeling of freshness.

[0009] Furthermore, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, which are designed and developed taking environmental issues into account, is becoming a major objective in an effort to meet global challenges.

[0010] It is therefore essential to propose more sustainable compositions to address these environmental concerns.

[0011] In this context, it is important to develop new ingredients and / or active ingredients that are environmentally friendly, in particular of natural origin, more specifically bio-based and / or from sustainable non-petrochemical sources, and / or biodegradable and / or obtained by extraction processes requiring low energy and water consumption in order to offer compositions that reduce the environmental impact of products. Summary of the invention

[0012] The inventors have now discovered that it is possible to formulate such compositions having the desired properties as described above.

[0013] Specifically, the inventors have discovered that it is possible to formulate stable compositions, preferably for skincare and / or makeup, of keratinous materials, which can nourish keratinous materials, particularly the skin, and deliver a feeling of freshness.

[0014] Accordingly, according to a first aspect, the present invention relates to a composition, preferably for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising: i. at least one surfactant chosen from surfactins, their derivatives and mixtures; ii. at least one alkyl polyglucoside; and iii. at least 12% by weight of at least one fatty compound, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0015] The inventors have discovered that the composition according to the present invention is stable and can nourish keratinous materials well, in particular the skin.

[0016] The inventors have further discovered that in certain preferred embodiments, the composition according to the present invention can deliver a sensation of freshness.

[0017] According to a second aspect, the present invention relates to a non-therapeutic method for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising the application of the composition according to the present invention on the keratinous materials.

[0018] Other subjects, features, aspects, and advantages of the present invention will be presented in the following description and will be partly evident from the description or may be learned through practice of the present invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0019] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as that commonly understood by a person skilled in the art of the present invention. Where the definition of a term in this description conflicts with the meaning commonly understood by a person skilled in the art of the present invention, the definition described herein shall apply.

[0020] In what follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values ​​are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between...and..." and "from...to...".

[0021] Furthermore, the expression "at least one" used in this description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

[0022] Throughout this application, the term "including" shall be interpreted as encompassing all the specifically cited features as well as optional, additional, unspecified features. As used herein, the use of the term "including" also discloses the embodiment in which no features other than the specifically cited features are present (i.e., "consisting of").

[0023] Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values ​​expressing a quantity of ingredients and the like used in the description and claims shall be understood as modified by the term "approximately". Consequently, unless otherwise indicated, the numerical values ​​and parameters described herein are approximate values ​​which, if necessary, may be changed according to the desired purpose.

[0024] As used herein, the expression "keratinous materials" refers to the skin and lips. "Skin" means all the skin of the body, including the scalp. Preferably, the keratinous material is the skin of the face.

[0025] In the present invention, all percentages refer, unless otherwise specified, to a percentage by weight.

[0026] The composition according to the present invention comprises: i. at least one surfactant chosen from surfactins, their derivatives and mixtures; ii. at least one alkyl polyglucoside; and iii. at least 12% by weight of at least one fatty compound, relative to the total weight of the composition. Surfactins and / or their derivatives

[0027] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one surfactant selected from surfactins, their derivatives and mixtures thereof.

[0028] Surfactins are cyclic lipopeptides composed of seven amino acids linked to a [3-hydroxy fatty acid.

[0029] Specific examples of surfactins include the compounds represented by the following formula (I): 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 ® RCHCH2CO-2~GlU“£~LtW£)“Lw~£~Vtd^

[0030] wherein X represents an amino acid residue selected from leucine, isoleucine, valine, glycine, serine, alanine, threonine, asparagine, glutamine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, lysine, arginine, cysteine, the methionine, phenylalanine, tyrosine, tryptophan, histidine, proline, 4-hydroxyproline, and homoserine,

[0031] in which R represents an alkyl group having 8 to 14 carbon atoms.

[0032] Preferably, X is chosen from leucine, isoleucine, valine, asparagine and glutamine.

[0033] Surfactin derivatives include surfactin analogues in which one or more amino acids of formula (I) are substituted by other amino acids. Examples include compounds in which the amino acid in the second position, namely L-leucine, the amino acid in the fourth position, namely L-valine, and the amino acid in the sixth position, namely D-leucine, are independently substituted by an amino acid selected from leucine, isoleucine, valine, glycine, serine, alanine, threonine, asparagine, glutamine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, lysine, arginine, cysteine, methionine, phenylalanine, tyrosine, tryptophan, histidine, proline, 4-hydroxyproline, and homoserine.

[0034] Surfactin derivatives also include inorganic or organic salts of the compound represented by formula (I). In the case where the surfactant is an inorganic salt, a metal that is a counterion is not particularly limited as long as the counterion can form a salt with a surfactin. Examples of counterions include, but are not limited to, alkali metals such as sodium, potassium, and lithium; and alkaline earth metals such as calcium and magnesium. In the case where the surfactant is an organic salt, examples include a trimethylamine salt, a triethylamine salt, a tributylamine salt, a monoethanolamine salt, a diethanolamine salt, a triethanolamine salt, a lysine salt, an arginine salt, and a choline salt.

[0035] Preferably, the surfactant chosen from among surfactins, their derivatives, and their mixtures is chosen from surfactins of formula (I), its organic salts and its inorganic salts.

[0036] More preferably, the surfactant chosen from among surfactins, their derivatives, and their mixtures is chosen from surfactins of formula (I), its sodium salts, its potassium salts, its monoethanolamine salts, its diethanolamine salts, its triethanolamine salts, its lysine salts and its arginine salts.

[0037] Even more preferably, the surfactant chosen from among surfactins, their derivatives, and their mixtures is chosen from sodium salts, potassium salts of surfactins of formula (I), and their combinations.

[0038] Advantageously, the surfactant selected from surfactins, their derivatives, and mixtures thereof is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably 0.02% by weight at 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% by weight to 2% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Alkyl polyglucosides

[0039] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one alkyl polyglucoside.

[0040] Preferably, the alkyl polyglucoside is chosen from those of formula (II):

[0041] RO-Gx (II)

[0042] in which

[0043] - R is an alkyl group in C6-C22,

[0044] - G is a glucose motif, and

[0045] - x' represents the average degree of polymerization of the alkyl polyglucoside from 1 to 10.

[0046] For a specific alkyl polyglucoside molecule, x' can only take integer values. In any physical sample of alkyl polyglucosides, there will generally be molecules with different values ​​of x'. The physical sample can be characterized by the average value of x', which can take non-integer values. In this disclosure, the values ​​of x' should be understood as average values.

[0047] The hydrophilic portion of the alkyl polyglucoside contains from about 1 to about 10 saccharide motifs on average.

[0048] The hydrophobic group on the alkyl polyglycoside is an alkyl group, linear or branched, containing from about 6 to about 22 carbon atoms on average.

[0049] Preferably, the alkyl group is mainly a C8-C22 alkyl group, preferably a C10-C22 alkyl group.

[0050] More preferably, in formula (II):

[0051] -Remains an alkyl group in C10-C22,

[0052] - G is a glucose motif,

[0053] - x' goes from 1 to 3.

[0054] Even more preferably, the alkyl polyglucoside is chosen from among the C12-C20 alkyl glucosides.

[0055] Even more preferably, the alkyl polyglucoside is chosen from lauryl glucoside, coco-glucoside, myristyl glucoside, palmistry glucoside, cetearyl glucoside, octyldodecyl glucoside, isostearyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside, and one of their combinations.

[0056] In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises arachidyl glucoside.

[0057] Advantageously, the alkyl polyglucoside is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01% by weight to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% by weight to 3% by weight, even more preferably from 0.1% by weight to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Fatty compounds

[0058] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least 12% by weight of at least one fatty compound, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0059] Preferably, the fatty compound is chosen from oils, paste compounds, waxes and their combinations. Oils

[0060] As used herein, the term "oil" refers to a fatty compound or oily substance that is in liquid form at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). Oils commonly used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination.

[0061] The oil suitable for the composition according to the present invention is not particularly limited.

[0062] For example, the oil can be chosen from vegetable oils, synthetic oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0063] Examples of vegetable oils include linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0064] Examples of synthetic oils include ester oils, ether oils, hydrocarbon oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0065] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one ester oil.

[0066] Ester oils can be liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic monoacids or polyacids, linear or branched in C1-C26, preferably in C10-C20, and of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, linear or branched in C1-C26, preferably in C2-C10, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

[0067] Preferably, the ester oil is chosen from palmitates, N-acyl amino acid esters, preferably N-acyl sarcosinates, and their combinations.

[0068] More preferably, the ester oil is chosen from linear or branched C2-C10 alkyl palmitates, linear or branched C2-C10 alkyl esters of C8-C22 amino acyl acids, preferably of C8-C22 acyl sarcosines, and their combinations.

[0069] Examples of linear or C2-C10 branched alkyl palmitates include ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate and isopropyl palmitate.

[0070] Examples of linear or branched C2-C10 alkyl esters of C8-C22 amino acyl acids include ethyl lauroyl sarcosinate, ethylhexyl lauroyl sarcosinate and isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate.

[0071] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one ester oil selected from isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinates, and their combinations.

[0072] Advantageously, the oil is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 1% by weight to 40% by weight, preferably from 3% by weight to 35% by weight, more preferably from 5% by weight to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Pasty compounds

[0073] As used here, the term "pasty" refers to a lipophilic compound with a reversible solid / liquid change of state, having in particular in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization and comprising a liquid fraction and a solid fraction at room temperature.

[0074] In other words, the initial melting point of the paste compound may be lower than room temperature. The liquid fraction of the paste compound, measured at room temperature, may represent 9% to 97% by weight of the paste compound. This fraction, which is liquid at room temperature, preferably represents between 15% and 85%, more preferably between 40% and 85%, by weight.

[0075] As mentioned herein, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed during thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of a material can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by TA Instruments or the calorimeter sold under the name DSC Q100 by TA Instruments with the TA Universal Analysis software.

[0076] The measurement protocol for the melting point of a paste-like compound is as follows:

[0077] A 5 mg sample of the paste-like compound placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature increase from -20 °C to 100 °C at a heating rate of 10 °C / minute. It is then cooled from 100 °C to -20 °C at a cooling rate of 10 °C / minute and is finally subjected to a second temperature increase from -20 °C to 100 °C at a heating rate of 5 °C / minute. The melting point of the The pasty compound is the temperature value corresponding to the peak on the curve representing the variation of the difference in absorbed power as a function of temperature.

[0078] It should be noted that the liquid fraction by weight of the paste compound at room temperature is equal to the ratio between the heat of fusion consumed at room temperature and the heat of fusion of the paste compound.

[0079] The heat of fusion of the paste-like compound is the heat consumed by said substance to change from a solid to a liquid state. The paste-like compound is said to be in a solid state when all of its mass is in crystalline solid form. The paste-like compound is said to be in a liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form.

[0080] The heat of fusion of the paste-like compound is the amount of energy required to change the paste-like compound from a solid to a liquid state. It is expressed in J / g. The heat of fusion of the paste-like compound is equal to the area under the curve of the resulting thermogram.

[0081] The paste compound can in particular be chosen from synthetic paste compounds and fatty compounds of vegetable origin.

[0082] Examples of pasty compound(s) include:

[0083] - lanolin and its derivatives, such as lanolin alcohol, oxyethylenated lanolins, acetylated lanolin, lanolin esters such as isopropyl lanolate and oxypropylened lanolins,

[0084] - petroleum jelly (also called petrolatum),

[0085] - C2-C4 pentaerythritol and polyalkylene glycol ethers, for example The compounds with the INCI names below: PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, and their mixtures. For example, the mixture sold under the name Lanolide by the company Vevy,

[0086] - lipophilic polyethers resulting from polyetherification between a or Several diols in the C2-C100 and preferably C2-C50 ranges. Among the liposoluble polyethers, particular consideration is given to copolymers of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with long-chain C6-C30 alkylene oxides, more preferably such that the weight ratio of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide to alkylene oxides in the copolymer is from 5:95 to 70:30. In this family, mention should be made of the product bearing the INCI name PEG-45 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer, sold, for example, under the brand name Elfacos ST9 by Akzo Nobel.

[0087] - esters resulting from the condensation of a C6-C10 dicarboxylic acid, preferably saturated, linear or branched, and of an ester of diglycerol and linear or branched C6-C20 monocarboxylic acids, optionally hydroxylated, preferably saturated, in particular the diester obtained by condensation of adipic acid and a mixture of diglycerol esters with a mixture of C6-C20 fatty acids, such as caprylic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, sold in particular under the reference Softisan® 649 by the company Cremer Oleo (INCI name: Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2),

[0088] - fatty acid triglycerides that are optionally hydrogenated (totally or partially), saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally mono- or polyhydroxylated, preferably C12-C18; for example, C12-C18 saturated fatty acid glycerides sold under the name Softisan 100® by Cremer Oleo (INCI name: Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides),

[0089] - dimer diol esters, or polyol esters, and diacid dimer esters, for example:

[0090] - the dimer esters of dilinolylic alcohol and dilinolylic acid, of which the groups hydroxyl are esterified with a mixture of phytosterols, behenyl alcohol and isostearyl alcohol, for example the ester sold under the name Plandool G by the company Nippon Fine Chemical (INCI name: Bis-Behenyl I Isostearyl I Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate);

[0091] - dilinoleic acid esters and a mixture of phytosterols, alcohol isostearyl, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, for example the ester sold under the name Plandool H or Plandool S by the company Nippon Fine Chemical (INCI name: Phytosteryl / Isostearyl / Cetyl / Stearyl / Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate);

[0092] - butters of vegetable origin, such as mango butter, such as the product sold under the name Lipex 203 by the company Aarhuskarlshamn, shea butter, in particular the product whose INCI name is Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, such as the product sold under the reference Sheasoft® by the company Aarhuskarlshamn, cupuacu butter (Rain Forest RF3410 from the company Beraca Sahara), murumuru butter (Rain Forest RF3710 from the company Beraca Sahara), cocoa butter;

[0093] - vegetable oils that are fully or partially hydrogenated, for example hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, mixtures of hydrogenated vegetable oils such as the mixture of hydrogenated soybean, coconut, palm and rapeseed vegetable oil, for example the mixture sold under the reference Akogel® by the company Aarhuskarlshamn (INCI name Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), partially hydrogenated trans-isomerized jojoba oil manufactured or sold by the company Desert Whale under the trade name Iso-Jojoba-50®, partially hydrogenated olive oil, for example the compound sold under the reference Beurrolive by the company Soliance,

[0094] - hydrogenated castor oil esters, such as castor oil dimer dilinoleate hydrogenated castor oil, for example Risocast-DA-L sold by Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo, and hydrogenated castor oil isostearate, for example Salacos HCIS (VL) sold by Nisshin Oil,

[0095] - and their mixtures.

[0096] Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises a paste-like compound selected from hydrogenated triglycerides of linear or branched C12-C18 fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated.

[0097] More preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises a paste-like compound selected from hydrogenated triglycerides of linear or branched C12-C18 saturated fatty acids.

[0098] Even more preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises hydrogenated coco-glyceride.

[0099] Advantageously, the pasty compound is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.3% by weight to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% by weight to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.8% by weight to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Waxes

[0100] As used herein, the term “wax” refers to a lipophilic fatty compound with reversible solid / liquid phase change, which is solid at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

[0101] Waxes may be hydrocarbon waxes, silicone waxes and / or fluorinated waxes, and may be of vegetable, mineral and / or synthetic origin.

[0102] Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises a wax selected from hydrocarbon-based waxes.

[0103] Examples of hydrocarbon-based waxes include beeswax, Chinese insect wax, rice wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, berry wax, lacquer wax and sumach wax, Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax, montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins, ozokerite, polyethylene waxes, polymethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and solid fatty alcohols containing 14 to 40 carbon atoms.

[0104] Examples of solid fatty alcohols containing 14 to 40 carbon atoms include myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, ceranyl alcohol, montanyl alcohol, dotriacontanol, triacontanol, hentriacontanol, tetratriacontanol, pentatriacontanol, hexatriacontanol, heptatriacontanol, octatriacontanol, nonatriacontanol and tetracontanol.

[0105] More preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises a wax selected from solid fatty alcohols containing 14 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 20 to 40 carbon atoms, more preferably 20 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0106] Preferably, the wax has a melting point of 60 °C to 90 °C, preferably of 60 °C to 85 °C, and more preferably of 65 °C to 80 °C.

[0107] For the purposes of the invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed during thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a Differential Scanning Calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC Q2000 by TA Instruments.

[0108] The measurement protocol is as follows:

[0109] A sample of approximately 5 mg of wax is placed in a crucible in " airtight aluminum capsule.

[0110] The sample is subjected to a first temperature increase from -20 °C to 120 °C at a heating rate of 10 °C / minute. It is then cooled from 120 °C to -20 °C at a cooling rate of 10 °C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature increase from -20 °C to 120 °C at a heating rate of 5 °C / minute. During the second temperature increase, the melting point of the fatty compound is measured. This value corresponds to the value of the peak of the most endothermic peak observed on the melting curve, representing the variation of the difference in absorbed power as a function of temperature.

[0111] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises a wax selected from behenyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and their combinations.

[0112] Advantageously, the wax is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.2% by weight to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% by weight to 8% by weight, most preferably from 1% by weight to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0113] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one fatty compound selected from ester oils, hydrogenated triglycerides of linear or branched C12-C18 fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, solid fatty alcohols containing 14 to 40 carbon atoms, and their combinations.

[0114] More preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one fatty compound selected from linear or branched C2-C10 alkyl palmitates, linear or branched C2-C10 alkyl lauroyl sarcosinates, linear or branched C12-C18 saturated fatty acid hydrogenated triglycerides, solid fatty alcohols containing 14 to 30 carbon atony, preferably 20 to 30 carbon atoms, and their combinations.

[0115] Even more preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one fatty compound selected from isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinates, hydrogenated coco-glyceride, behenyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol and their combinations.

[0116] In some preferred embodiments, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one paste-like compound and at least 2% by weight of at least one wax with a melting point of 60°C to 90°C, preferably 60°C to 85°C, more preferably 65°C to 80°C, relative to the total weight of the composition. The inventors have discovered that such a composition can penetrate in a short time, for example in less than 30 seconds, and deliver a sensation of penetration.

[0117] Advantageously, the fatty alcohol is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 12% by weight to 50% by weight, preferably from 12.5% ​​by weight to 45% by weight, more preferably from 13% by weight to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Thickeners

[0118] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises a thickener.

[0119] Preferably, the thickener is chosen from (meth)acrylic acid or (meth)acrylate polymers optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized.

[0120] More preferably, the thickener is chosen from optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized homopolymers of their C1-C4 (meth)acrylic acids or alkyl esters, and copolymers of one or more monomers of their C1-C4 (meth)acrylic acids and alkyl esters, and a hydrophobic co-monomer.

[0121] Preferably, the hydrophobic co-monomer is chosen from C8-C50 alkyl esters, preferably C10-C40 alkyl esters, more preferably C10-C30 alkyl esters of an unsaturated carboxylic acid.

[0122] More preferably, the hydrophobic co-monomer is chosen from the C8-C50 alkyl esters of an unsaturated carboxylic acid corresponding to formula (III) below: Formula (III) (. H „ ( — < .> R. ' 7 ■ ' I II O

[0123] in which R2 designates H or CH3 or C2H5 (i.e. acrylate, methacrylate or ethacrylate motifs) and, preferably, H (acrylate motifs) or CH3 (methacrylate motifs), Ri designates a C8-C50 alkyl radical, preferably a C10-C40 alkyl radical, more preferably a C10-C30 alkyl radical.

[0124] The C8-C50 alkyl esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids are, for example, lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate and dodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate and dodecyl methacrylate.

[0125] Even more preferably, the thickener is chosen from

[0126] - neutralized homopolymers of (meth)acrylic acid;

[0127] - copolymers formed from a mixture of monomers comprising: i. at least one of (meth)acrylic acid, methyl (meth)acrylates and ethyl (meth)acrylate, ii. an ester of formula (III) described above and in which R2 denotes H or CH3, Ri denotes a C10-C30 alkyl radical and, iii. and a crosslinking agent, which is a well-known copolymerizable unsaturated polyethylene monomer, for example allyl sucrose ether, allyl pentaerythritol ether, diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or methyl lenebis acrylamide.

[0128] Most preferably, the thickener is chosen from sodium carbomer, C10-30 acrylate / alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer, and their combinations.

[0129] Advantageously, the thickener is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.02% by weight to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.03% by weight to 1.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% by weight to 0.8% by weight, most preferably from 0.1% by weight to 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Water

[0130] Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises water.

[0131] Preferably, water is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 40% by weight to 88% by weight, preferably from 50% by weight to 86% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Active cosmetic ingredients

[0132] The composition of the present invention may include one or more cosmetic active ingredients, such as capryloyl salicylic acid, niacinamide, etc.

[0133] It is easy for a person skilled in the art to adjust the quantity of the active cosmetic ingredients according to the end use of the composition of the present invention. Additional adjuvants or additives

[0134] The composition of the present invention may also contain conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, for example preservatives and bactericides, such as hydroxyacetophenone, pH regulators, and mixtures thereof.

[0135] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention has a pH value of 4.5 to 8, preferably 5 to 8, more preferably 6 to 7.

[0136] A person skilled in the art can adjust the quantity of additional adjuvants or additives so as not to have a negative impact on the final use of the composition according to the present invention.

[0137] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the present invention proposes a composition, preferably for skincare and / or makeup, of keratinous materials comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: i. from 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight of at least one surfactant selected from sodium salts, potassium salts of surfactins of formula (I), and their combinations; ii. from 0.1% by weight to 2.5% by weight of at least one alkyl polyglucoside selected from lauryl glucoside, coco-glucoside, myristyl glucoside, palmistry glucoside, cetearyl glucoside, octyldodecyl glucoside, isostearyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside, and one of their combinations; and iii. from 13% by weight to 40% by weight of at least one fatty compound selected from linear or branched C2-C10 alkyl palmitates, linear or branched C2-C10 alkyl esters of C8-C22 amino acyl acids, preferably of C8-C22 acyl sarcosines, linear or branched C12-C18 saturated fatty acid hydrogenated triglycerides, solid fatty alcohols containing 14 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 20 to 30 carbon atoms, and combinations thereof. Method and use

[0138] The composition of the present invention can be used for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials.

[0139] According to the second aspect, the present invention relates to a non-therapeutic method of care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising the application of the composition according to the first aspect of the present invention on the keratinous materials.

[0140] In particular, keratinous materials can be skin, for example facial skin. EXAMPLES

[0141] The following examples are given by way of non-limiting illustrations of the present invention.

[0142] The main raw materials used, their trade names and suppliers are listed in Table 1.

[0143] [Tables 1] INCI Name Trade Name Supplier Arachidyl alcohol (and) behenyl alcohol (and) arachidyl glucoside MONTANOV 202 SEPPIC Sodium surfactin BLOOMAGE BIOTE CHNOLOGY Hydrogenated coco-glyceride SOFTISAN 100 IOI GROUP OLEOC HEMICALS Isopropyl palmitate EVIOL DS 41IPP EVYAP Acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer POLYMER CARB OPOL ULTREZ 20 LUBRIZOL Sodium carbomer AQUPEC MG N40 R SUMITOMO SEIKA

[0144] Inventive examples 1 and 2 and comparative examples 1 to 3

[0145] Compositions of inventive examples (El) 1-2 and comparative examples (EC) 1-3 were prepared on the basis of the quantities given in Table 2. The quantities are given as % by weight of each component relative to the total weight of each composition.

[0146] [Tables2] Components El. 1 El. 2 EC. 1 EC. 2 EC. 3 Sodium surfactin 0.2 0.2 0 0.2 0.2 Arachidyl alcohol (and) β-henyl alcohol (and) arachidyl glucoside 2.4 2.4 2.4 0 2.4 Isopropyl palmitate 15 9 15 15 5 Hydrogenated coco-glyceride 5 2 5 5 1 Isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate 4 1 4 4 2 Crosslinked acrylate polymer / C10-30 alkyl acrylate 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 Sodium carbomer 0.35 0.35 0.35 0.35 0.35 Capryloyl salicylic acid 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Niacinamide 2 2 2 2 2 Hydroxyacetophenone 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Sodium hydroxide pH 6.5 pH 6.5 pH 6.5 pH 6.5 pH 6.5 Water QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100

[0147] The compositions of inventive examples 1 and 2 represent compositions according to the present invention.

[0148] The composition of comparative example 1 does not include at least one oil selected from surfactins and their derivatives.

[0149] The composition of comparative example 2 does not include at least one alkyl polyglucoside.

[0150] The composition of comparative example 3 comprises less than 12% by weight of at least one fatty compound, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0151] Preparation process:

[0152] The compositions listed above were prepared as follows: 1. Mixture of arachidyl alcohol (and) behenyl alcohol (and) arachidyl glucoside (if applicable), isopropyl palmitate, hydrogenated coco-glyceride and isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate at 75 °C with stirring to obtain a homogeneous mixture A. 2. Addition of sodium surfactin (if applicable) to water at 75 °C with homogenization to obtain a homogeneous mixture B. 3. Introduction of mixture A into mixture B under stirring at 75 °C for 10 minutes to obtain mixture C. 4. Introduction of C10-30 acrylate / alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer into mixture C at 60 °C with homogenization for 10 minutes, then stirring to cool to room temperature. 5. Introduction of sodium hydroxide to adjust the pH to 6.5 in order to obtain each composition. Composition evaluation

[0153] The stability of the compositions of inventive examples 1 and 2 and comparative examples 1 to 3, and the sensory and nutritional residues delivered by them, have been evaluated. Stability

[0154] The stability of the composition of inventive examples 1 and 2 and comparative examples 1 to 3 was evaluated by centrifugation at 25 °C, 900 rpm for 1 hour. If there is phase separation at the end of the centrifugation, the composition under test fails the stability test, and if there is no phase separation, the composition under test passes the stability test. Fresh, sensory and nutritious residue

[0155] The fresh and nutritious sensory residue delivered by each of the compositions of inventive examples 1 and 2 and comparative examples 1 to 3 was evaluated by 5 skin experts as follows.

[0156] 0.1 ml of a sample to be evaluated was taken from the back of a hand using a pipette and applied with fingers for 20 turns (1 turn / second, applied in diameter of 5 cm) and the sensation of freshness was noted by each skin expert between 1 and 5 according to the following standard, then averaged.

[0157] 1: The skin is excessively oily and very shiny

[0158] 2: The skin is visibly oily and shiny

[0159] 3: The skin is slightly oily and not very shiny

[0160] 4: The skin is not very watery and appears slightly watery and radiant

[0161] 5: The skin is very watery and appears radiant

[0162] Next, the sample to be evaluated was applied with the fingers for 10 additional turns, then the skin was patted 5 times and the nutrient residue was noted by each skin expert from 1 to 5 according to the following standard, then averaged.

[0163] 1: the skin resembles bare skin

[0164] 2: the skin is barely flaky

[0165] 3: the skin has a poorly hydrated film

[0166] 4: the skin has a somewhat hydrated film

[0167] 5: The skin is comfortably moisturized, with a subtle and discreet film

[0168] The results of the evaluation of the stability of the compositions of inventive examples 1 and 2 and of comparative examples 1 to 3 and of the sensation of freshness and of the nutrient residue delivered by them have been summarized in Table 3.

[0169] [Tables3] ELI Properties EL 2 EC. 1 EC.2 EC.3 Stability Success Success Failure Failure Success Freshness (score) 4.4 4.8 2.4 3.6 4.8 Nutrient Residues (score) 4.8 4.2 4 3.6 2.8

[0170] It can be seen in Table 3 that the compositions of inventive examples 1 and 2 are stable and can deliver a desired fresh and nutritious sensory residue.

Claims

Demands

1. Composition, preferably for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising: (i) at least one surfactant selected from surfactins, their derivatives and mixtures; (ii) at least one alkyl polyglucoside; and (iii) at least 12% by weight of at least one fatty compound, relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the surfactant selected from surfactins, their derivatives and mixtures is selected from surfactins of formula (I), their organic salts and inorganic salts, 12 3 4 5 6 7 ® RCHCIl2CO-£-Glu~7-Le.u-;;rLeu~ / ~^ ।-------------------------o---------------------- in which - X represents an amino acid residue selected from leucine, isoleucine, valine, glycine, serine, alanine, threonine, asparagine, glutamine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, lysine, arginine, cysteine, methionine, phenylalanine, tyrosine, tryptophan, histidine, proline, 4-hydroxyproline, and homoserine, preferably X, is selected from leucine, isoleucine, valine, asparagine, and glutamine, in which R represents an alkyl group having 8 to 14 carbon atoms; preferably, the surfactant is selected from surfactins and their derivatives.and their mixtures is selected from surfactins of formula (I), their sodium salts, their potassium salts, their monoethanolamine salts, their diethanolamine salts, their triethanolamine salts, their lysine salts and their arginine salts; more preferably, the surfactant selected from surfactins, their derivatives, and their mixtures is selected from sodium salts, potassium salts of surfactins of formula (I), and their combinations.

3. Composition according to any one of claims 1 and 2, wherein the alkyl polyglucoside is selected from those of formula (II): RO-Gx (II) in which - R is a C6-C22 alkyl group, preferably a C10-C22 alkyl group, - G is a glucose motif, and - x' represents the average degree of polymerization of the alkyl polyglucoside from 1 to 10, preferably from 1 to 3.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the alkyl polyglucoside is selected from the C12-C20 alkyl glucosides, preferably the alkyl polyglucoside is lauryl glucoside, coco-glucoside, myristyl glucoside, palmistry glucoside, cetearyl glucoside, octyldodecyl glucoside, isostearyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside, and any combination thereof.

5. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the fatty compound is selected from ester oils, hydrogenated triglycerides of linear or branched C12-C18 fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, solid fatty alcohols containing 14 to 40 carbon atoms, and combinations thereof, preferably the fatty compound is selected from linear or branched C2-C10 alkyl palmitates, linear or branched C2-C10 alkyl esters of C8-C22 acyl amino acids, preferably C8-C22 acyl sarcosinates, hydrogenated triglycerides of linear or branched C12-C18 saturated fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols containing 14 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 20 to 30 carbon atoms. carbon, and their combinations, more preferably, the fatty compound is chosen from isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinates, hydrogenated coco-glyceride, behenyl alcohol,arachidyl alcohol and their combinations.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the fatty compound is present in an amount from 12% by weight to 50% by weight, preferably from 12.5% ​​by weight to 45% by weight, and more preferably from 13% by weight to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Composition according to claim 1, comprising, in relation to the total weight of the composition:

8. (i) from 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight of at least one surfactant selected from sodium salts, potassium salts of surfactins of formula (I), and their combinations; (iii) from 0.1% by weight to 2.5% by weight of at least one alkyl polyglucoside selected from lauryl glucoside, coco-glucoside, myristyl glucoside, palmistry glucoside, cetearyl glucoside, octyldodecyl glucoside, isostearyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside, and one of their combinations; and (iii) from 13% by weight to 40% by weight of at least one fatty compound selected from linear or branched C2-C10 alkyl palmitates, linear or branched C2-C10 alkyl esters of C8-C22 amino acyl acid, preferably of C8-C22 acyl sarcosines, linear or branched C12-C18 saturated fatty acid hydrogenated triglycerides, solid fatty alcohols containing 14 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 20 to 30 carbon atoms, and combinations thereof. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, further comprising a thickener, preferably the thickener is selected from optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized (meth)acrylic or (meth)acrylate polymers, more preferably the thickener is selected from optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized homopolymers of their (meth)acrylic acids or C1-C4 alkyl esters, and copolymers of one or more monomers of their (meth)acrylic acids and Cl-C4 alkyl esters, and a hydrophobic co-monomer, preferably the hydrophobic co-monomer is selected from C8-C50 alkyl esters of an unsaturated carboxylic acid, more preferably the hydrophobic co-monomer is selected from C8-C50 alkyl esters of an unsaturated carboxylic acid corresponding to formula (III) below: Formula (III) • I SI O in which R2 designates H or CH3 or C2H5, Ri designating a C8-C50 alkyl radical, preferably a C10-C40 alkyl radical, more preferably a C10-C30 alkyl radical, even more preferably, the thickener is chosen from sodium carbomer, C10-30 alkyl / acrylate crosslinked polymer, and their combinations.

9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the composition has a pH value of 4.5 to 8, preferably 5 to 8, and more preferably 6 to 7.

10. Non-therapeutic method of care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising the application of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 on keratinous materials.