Improved thermal reshaping method
Patent Information
- Application Number
- JP2022180531
- Authority / Receiving Office
- JP · JP
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2022-11-10
- Publication Date
- 2025-11-18
AI Technical Summary
Existing methods for reshaping keratin fibers, such as hair, using chemical treatments are not environmentally friendly, cause high fiber deterioration, have poor reshaping efficiency, and produce unpleasant odors, with polyvinylidene chloride films being particularly problematic due to toxicity and stickiness.
A method involving alkylaminosulfonic acids and water at a pH of 8.0 to 12, combined with high-density polyethylene to form a closed space for heating keratin fibers at 50°C to 250°C, eliminating the need for reducing and oxidizing agents and reducing odor and fiber damage.
This method provides improved reshaping efficiency and ease of use with reduced environmental impact, lower fiber deterioration, and minimal odor, using high-density polyethylene for a more effective and safer reshaping process.
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Abstract
Description
[Technical field]
[0001] The present invention relates to a method, in particular a cosmetic method, for keratinous fibers such as hair. [Background technology]
[0002] In the long-lasting transformation of keratin fibers such as hair, firstly, the disulfide bonds -SS- of keratin (cystine) are cleaved using a composition containing a suitable reducing agent (reduction stage), then the hair thus treated is optionally rinsed, and secondly, the disulfide bonds are reconstituted by applying an oxidizing composition onto the keratin fibers previously placed under tension (curlers, etc.) (oxidation stage, also called fixation), so that finally the keratin fibers are given the desired shape. This technique therefore makes it possible to either wave or straighten the keratin fibers.
[0003] In contrast to the simple prior art techniques of temporary styling by the use of foams, styling gels or lacquers, the new shape given to the keratinous fibers by the above-mentioned chemical treatments lasts for a relatively long time and is extremely resistant to the cleaning action of water or shampoos.
[0004] Many compositions and methods for the above chemical treatments have been proposed, which generally provide good performance on the day of treatment.
[0005] However, there are various drawbacks to the above mentioned chemical treatment methods that may not be suitable from the point of view of the consumer's or hairdresser's expectations, such as: - poor reshaping efficiency, e.g. low wave strength, - poor usability, for example caused by the composition running off the hair, - high levels of degradation of the keratin fibres, especially in repeated applications or in combination with other chemical treatments such as oxidative colouring, - Long processing times, and - Odour of ammonia or sulfur-containing compounds during and after the transformation process.
[0006] In particular, sufficient reshaping efficiency, short processing time, and conditioning effect on keratin fibers are important. Indeed, there is a need to improve the transformation process of keratin fibers to provide sufficient reshaping efficiency, for example, high wave strength of curled keratin fibers, and excellent hair conditioning effect such as conditioning feel, in a relatively short time. In addition, excellent usability, such as no or reduced malodor, is also desired.
[0007] JP-A-2010-159254 or EP-A-2198737 disclose a new method for permanent deformation of keratin fibers, characterized in that the keratin fibers are placed in a closed space and heated, which is different from the above-mentioned conventional chemical treatments that require reduction and oxidation. The new method disclosed in JP-A-2010-159254 or EP-A-2198737 makes it possible to carry out reshaping of keratin fibers such as hair, without the need for oxidation any more.
[0008] The methods disclosed in JP-A-2010-159254 or EP-A-2198737 use a film of polyvinylidene chloride to form an enclosed space.
[0009] The use of polyvinylidene chloride is not environmentally friendly because it is difficult to recycle and can produce toxic gases such as HCl gas when incinerated.
[0010] It has also been found that polyvinylidene chloride film is sticky, and therefore it is not easy to form a closed space with polyvinylidene chloride film by hand.
[0011] There remains a need to improve reshaping methods for keratinous fibers that are based on heating the keratinous fibers in an enclosed space. [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]
[0012] [Patent Document 1] JP-A-2010-159254 [Patent Document 2] EP-A-2198737 [Patent Document 3] European Patent Application No. 0354835 [Patent Document 4] European Patent Application No. 0368763 [Patent Document 5] European Patent Application No. 0432000 [Patent Document 6] European Patent Application No. 0514282 [Patent Document 7] French Patent Application No. 2679448 Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]
[0013] The object of the present invention is to provide an improved method for reshaping keratinous fibers, such as hair, based on heating the keratinous fibers in an enclosed space, which is environmentally friendly and can provide better performance in reshaping the keratinous fibers. [Means for solving the problem]
[0014] The above object of the present invention is a method for reshaping, preferably permanently reshaping, more preferably permanently waving, keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising the steps of: (1) (a) an alkylaminosulfonic acid and a compound represented by the following formulas (I) and (II):
[0015] [ka]
[0016] [In the formula, R represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched, preferably linear, C1-C5 alkyl group, said alkyl group being selected from the group consisting of a hydroxyl group, an amino group, a carboxamide group, a C6-C 18 Aromatic group, heterocyclic group, -C(O)-OH, -S(O)2-OH, -C(O)-O - M + , -S(O)2-O - M + and mixtures thereof; + represents a cationic counterion such as an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium; - n is 0 or 1; (b) Water and A composition comprising: the pH of the composition is 8.0 to 12, preferably 8.5 to 11.5, and more preferably 9.0 to 11.0; (2) placing keratin fibers in an enclosed space; and (3) In the closed space, the keratin fibers are heated at a temperature of preferably 50°C to 250°C, more preferably 60°C to 200°C, and even more preferably 70°C to 150°C, Where: the enclosed space being formed by at least one covering means comprising high density polyethylene; This can be achieved by a method comprising:
[0017] The method according to the invention may further comprise, after step (3), a step (4) of removing the covering means around the keratinous fibres.
[0018] The covering means may be in the form of a film or a sheet.
[0019] The method according to the invention may further comprise a step of applying mechanical tension to the keratinous fibers, before or after step (1), preferably by means of at least one reshaping means selected from the group consisting of curlers, rollers, plates and irons.
[0020] The method according to the invention may further comprise, after step (1), a step of rinsing the keratinous fibers.
[0021] The pH of the composition may be within ±2 of the pH equal to the pKa of the equilibrium state:
[0022] [ka]
[0023] The (a) compound may be selected from the group consisting of alkylaminosulfonic acids, such as 2-(cyclohexylamino)ethanesulfonic acid; amino acids, such as glycine, alanine, glutamic acid, aspartic acid, phenylalanine, β-alanine, isoleucine, leucine, proline, glutamine, serine, threonine, valine, tryptophan, and tyrosine; oligomers of amino acids, such as glycylglycine; aminosulfonic acids, such as taurine; and mixtures thereof.
[0024] The (a) compound may be selected from the group consisting of 2-(cyclohexylamino)ethanesulfonic acid, glycine, alanine, taurine, and mixtures thereof.
[0025] The amount of the (a) compound in the composition may be from 1% to 25% by mass, preferably from 3% to 20% by mass, and more preferably from 5% to 15% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0026] The amount of (b) water in the composition may be 50% by mass to 95% by mass, preferably 60% by mass to 90% by mass, and more preferably 70% by mass to 85% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0027] The composition may further comprise (c) at least one alkaline agent, preferably an inorganic alkaline agent. The (c) alkaline agent may be selected from the group consisting of alkali metal hydroxides; and alkaline earth metal hydroxides, alkali metal phosphates, and / or monohydrogen phosphates. The amount of (c) alkaline agent in the composition may be 0.1% by mass to 15% by mass, preferably 0.5% by mass to 10% by mass, more preferably 1% by mass to 5% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0028] The composition may be free of ammonia or thiol compounds or contain less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, more preferably less than 0.1% by weight of ammonia or thiol compounds relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0029] The composition may contain no reducing or oxidizing agents or contain less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, more preferably less than 0.1% by weight of reducing or oxidizing agents relative to the total weight of the composition. [Brief description of the drawings]
[0030] [Figure 1] 1 is a photograph of curled hair samples in Example 1 and Comparative Example 1. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS
[0031] After extensive investigation, the inventors have discovered that it is possible to provide an improved method for reshaping keratinous fibers, such as hair, based on heating the keratinous fibers in an enclosed space, which is environmentally friendly and can provide better performance in reshaping the keratinous fibers.
[0032] The method according to the invention is environmentally friendly and can provide better performance in reshaping keratin fibres.
[0033] The process according to the present invention is environmentally friendly because high density polyethylene is relatively easy to recycle and does not produce toxic gases such as HCl gas when incinerated.
[0034] The method according to the invention can provide better performance in reshaping keratinous fibers, such as improved ease of use and improved reshaping efficiency.
[0035] The method according to the present invention can provide improved ease of use because the covering means forming the closed space comprises high density polyethylene, which is less sticky than polyvinylidene chloride.
[0036] The method according to the invention, which uses a covering means comprising high density polyethylene (HDPE), can be used to reshape or deform keratinous fibers, such as hair, in order to provide the keratinous fibers with a surprisingly improved reshaping efficiency compared to the use of a covering means comprising another thermoplastic resin, such as low density polyethylene (LDPE).
[0037] The method according to the invention will now be described in detail.
[0038] [method] The method according to the invention is intended for the reshaping, preferably the permanent reshaping, more preferably the permanent waving, of keratinous fibres such as hair.
[0039] The method according to the invention is therefore preferably a cosmetic method.
[0040] The method according to the invention comprises the steps of: (1) (a) an alkylaminosulfonic acid and a compound represented by the following formulas (I) and (II):
[0041] [ka]
[0042] [In the formula, R represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched, preferably linear, C1-C5 alkyl group, said alkyl group being selected from the group consisting of a hydroxyl group, an amino group, a carboxamide group, a C6-C 18 Aromatic group, heterocyclic group, -C(O)-OH, -S(O)2-OH, -C(O)-O - M + , -S(O)2-O - M + and mixtures thereof; + represents a cationic counterion such as an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium; - n is 0 or 1; (b) Water and A composition comprising: the pH of the composition is 8.0 to 12, preferably 8.5 to 11.5, and more preferably 9.0 to 11.0; (2) placing keratin fibers in an enclosed space; and (3) In the closed space, the keratin fibers are heated at a temperature of preferably 50°C to 250°C, more preferably 60°C to 200°C, and even more preferably 70°C to 150°C, Where: the enclosed space being formed by at least one covering means comprising high density polyethylene; Includes.
[0043] {composition} The composition used in the method according to the present invention comprises (a) an alkylaminosulfonic acid and a compound represented by the following formulas (I) and (II):
[0044] [ka]
[0045] [In the formula, R represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched, preferably linear, C1-C5 alkyl group, said alkyl group being selected from the group consisting of a hydroxyl group, an amino group, a carboxamide group, a C6-C 18 Aromatic group, heterocyclic group, -C(O)-OH, -S(O)2-OH, -C(O)-O - M + , -S(O)2-O - M + and mixtures thereof; + represents a cationic counterion such as an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium; - n is 0 or 1; (b) Water and where The pH of the composition is 8 to 12, preferably 8.5 to 11.5, and more preferably 9.0 to 11.0.
[0046] The composition as defined above is preferably a cosmetic composition, in particular for reshaping keratinous fibres, which are preferably hair.
[0047] (active compound) The composition used in the method according to the present invention comprises (a) an alkylaminosulfonic acid and at least one compound selected from those of formula (I) and (II) above as the active ingredient for the method according to the present invention.Two or more (a) compounds may be used in combination.Therefore, a single type of (a) compound or a combination of different types of (a) compounds may be used.
[0048] The (a) compound may be the only active ingredient for reshaping keratin fibres in the composition used in the method according to the invention.
[0049] The alkylaminosulfonic acid is preferably a C1-C alkylaminosulfonic acid having an imino group (—NH—) and a sulfonic acid moiety attached thereto. 20 Alkyl group, preferably C5-C 16Cycloalkyl groups, more preferably C6-C 12 It may have a cycloalkyl group. The alkylaminosulfonic acid may be selected from the group consisting of 4-(2-hydroxyethyl)-1-piperazineethanesulfonic acid, 2-(cyclohexylamino)ethanesulfonic acid, and mixtures thereof.
[0050] The (a) compounds of formula (I) and (II) above may be in their non-ionized form (I) or (II), or in their ionized or betaine form (I') or (II'):
[0051] [ka]
[0052] [In the formula, R represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched, preferably linear, C1-C5 alkyl group, said alkyl group being selected from the group consisting of a hydroxyl group, an amino group, a carboxamide group, a C6-C 18 Aromatic group, heterocyclic group, -C(O)-OH, -S(O)2-OH, -C(O)-O - M + , -S(O)2-O - M + and mixtures thereof; + represents a cationic counterion such as an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium; - n is 0 or 1; may be in an amount of 8% by weight or more relative to the total weight of the composition, The pH of the composition is 8 to 12, preferably 8.5 to 11.5, and more preferably 9.0 to 11.0.
[0053] Examples of the C1-C5 alkyl group include a methyl group, an ethyl group, a propyl group, an isopropyl group, an n-butyl group, a sec-butyl group, an isobutyl group, a tert-butyl group, and a pentyl group. A methyl group and an ethyl group are preferred, and a methyl group is more preferred.
[0054] The amino group may include -NH2, a group containing -NH2 such as a sulfonylamino group, and a group containing -NH-R' (wherein R' represents a hydroxyl group or a C1-C5 alkyl group as listed above) such as a hydroxyamino group and a C1-C5 alkylamino group. It should be noted that the term "amino" group does not mean a part of a urea group in this specification. As the amino group, -NH2 is preferred.
[0055] C6~C 18 The aromatic group is a monovalent C6-C group such as a phenyl group. 18 Aryl groups, substituted phenyl groups such as hydroxyphenyl groups and aminophenyl groups, and monovalent C7-C groups such as tolyl groups 18 Mention may be made of aralkyl groups.
[0056] Heterocyclic groups include monovalent, saturated or unsaturated, substituted or unsubstituted heterocyclic groups, such as substituted or unsubstituted pyrrolyl groups, substituted or unsubstituted pyrrolidinyl groups, substituted or unsubstituted pyridyl groups, substituted or unsubstituted piperidono groups, substituted or unsubstituted piperidinyl groups, substituted or unsubstituted morpholino groups, substituted or unsubstituted morpholinyl groups, substituted or unsubstituted furyl groups, and substituted or unsubstituted indolyl groups, such as 3-indolyl groups.
[0057] The compounds (a) in the above formulae (I) and (II) correspond to an amino acid and an aminosulfonic acid, respectively.
[0058] The (a) compounds are preferably selected from "neutral" or "acidic" amino acids or aminosulfonic acids. The term "neutral" is intended to mean amino acids or aminosulfonic acids having a pH of between 5 and 7, inclusive, in water at room temperature (25° C.). The term "acidic" is intended to mean amino acids or aminosulfonic acids having a pH of less than 6 in water at room temperature.
[0059] Preferably, the amino acid or aminosulfonic acid may contain a number of amino groups up to the number of acid groups.
[0060] The (a) compound may be selected from the group consisting of alkylaminosulfonic acids, such as 2-(cyclohexylamino)ethanesulfonic acid; amino acids, such as glycine, alanine, glutamic acid, aspartic acid, phenylalanine, β-alanine, isoleucine, leucine, proline, glutamine, serine, threonine, valine, tryptophan, and tyrosine; oligomers of amino acids, such as glycylglycine; aminosulfonic acids, such as taurine; and mixtures thereof.
[0061] Preferably, the (a) compound is selected from the group consisting of 2-(cyclohexylamino)ethanesulfonic acid, glycine, alanine, taurine, and mixtures thereof.
[0062] The amount of the (a) compound in the composition used in the method according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 3% by weight or more, and more preferably 5% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0063] The amount of (a) compound in the composition used in the method according to the invention may be up to 25% by weight, preferably up to 20% by weight, more preferably up to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0064] The amount of the (a) compound in the composition used in the method according to the present invention may be from 1% by mass to 25% by mass, preferably from 3% by mass to 20% by mass, and more preferably from 5% by mass to 15% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0065] (water) The composition used in the method according to the invention comprises (b) water.
[0066] The composition used in the method according to the invention may be aqueous.
[0067] The amount of (b) water in the composition used in the method according to the present invention may be 50% by weight or more, preferably 60% by weight or more, more preferably 70% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0068] The amount of (b) water in the composition used in the method according to the present invention may be 95% by weight or less, preferably 90% by weight or less, more preferably 85% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0069] The amount of (b) water in the composition used in the method according to the present invention may be 50% by mass to 95% by mass, preferably 60% by mass to 90% by mass, and more preferably 70% by mass to 85% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0070] (Alkaline agent) The composition used in the method according to the invention may comprise at least one alkaline agent (c). Two or more alkaline agents (c) may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of alkaline agent or a combination of different types of alkaline agents may be used.
[0071] (c) An alkaline agent is different from (a) a compound.
[0072] Where the (a) compound is capable of functioning to lower the pH of the composition, it is preferred that the composition used in the method according to the invention further comprises (c) an alkaline agent.
[0073] The (c) alkaline agent may be an inorganic alkaline agent. The (c) alkaline agent is preferably non-volatile. The inorganic alkaline agent is preferably selected from the group consisting of alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline earth metal hydroxides, alkali metal phosphates such as sodium phosphate or sodium monohydrogen phosphate, and monohydrogen phosphates.
[0074] Examples of inorganic alkali metal hydroxides include sodium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, and potassium hydroxide. Examples of alkaline earth metal hydroxides include calcium hydroxide and magnesium hydroxide. As inorganic alkaline agents, sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide are preferred.
[0075] (c) The alkaline agent may be an organic alkaline agent, preferably selected from the group consisting of basic amino acids, monoamines and diamines.
[0076] The basic amino acid contains an additional amine functionality optionally contained in the ring or in the ureido functionality. Such basic amino acids preferably have the following formula (A):
[0077] [ka]
[0078] (In the formula, R is as follows:
[0079] [ka]
[0080] represents a group selected from may be selected from those equivalent to
[0081] Compounds corresponding to formula (A) may be histidine, lysine, arginine, ornithine and citrulline.
[0082] Examples of monoamines include alkanolamines, such as mono-, di- and tri-ethanolamines containing one to three hydroxyalkyl (C1-C4) groups. In particular, the alkanolamines may be selected from monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol, and tris(hydroxymethylamino)methane.
[0083] Diamines have the following structural formula (B):
[0084] [ka]
[0085] (Wherein W represents an alkylene, such as propylene, optionally substituted with hydroxyl or C1-C4 alkyl groups; R a , R b , R c and R d represent independently a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group, or a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl group), which can be exemplified by 1,3-propanediamine and its derivatives.
[0086] (c) The alkaline agent may be used in a total amount of 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition, depending on its solubility.
[0087] (c) The alkaline agents may be used in a total amount of up to 15% by weight, preferably up to 10% by weight, and more preferably up to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, depending on their solubility.
[0088] (c) The alkaline agent can be used in a total amount of 0.1% by mass to 15% by mass, preferably 0.5% by mass to 10% by mass, and more preferably 1% by mass to 5% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition, depending on its solubility.
[0089] (acid) The composition used in the method according to the invention may comprise at least one acid different from the (a) compound. Two or more acids may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of acid or a combination of different types of acids may be used.
[0090] Acids may be used to adjust the pH of compositions used in methods according to the invention.
[0091] It is preferred that compositions used in methods according to the invention comprise an acid, where the (a) compound is capable of functioning to increase the pH of the composition.
[0092] The acid may include any inorganic or organic acid commonly used in cosmetics, such as citric acid, lactic acid, sulfuric acid, phosphoric acid or hydrochloric acid (HCl), with HCl being preferred.
[0093] Depending on their solubility, the acids may be used in a total amount of 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.2% by weight or more, more preferably 0.3% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0094] Depending on their solubility, the acids may be used in a total amount of up to 15% by weight, preferably up to 10% by weight, more preferably up to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0095] The acid can be used in a total amount of 0.1 to 15% by mass, preferably 0.2 to 10% by mass, and more preferably 0.3 to 5% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition, depending on its solubility.
[0096] (Monohydric alcohol) The composition used in the method according to the invention may contain at least one monohydric alcohol. Two or more monohydric alcohols may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of such alcohol or a combination of different types of monohydric alcohols may be used.
[0097] The monohydric alcohol is preferably heated at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg or 10 5 The monohydric alcohol is in the form of a liquid at room temperature, for example 25° C., under a temperature of 100° C. (Pa). The monohydric alcohol in the form of a liquid can function as an organic solvent, in particular as a water-soluble or hydrophilic organic solvent.
[0098] The term "monohydric alcohol" as used herein means an alcohol having one hydroxy group.
[0099] The monohydric alcohol may be non-aromatic (aliphatic) or aromatic.
[0100] The non-aromatic monohydric alcohol is preferably a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched lower aliphatic monohydric alcohol, more preferably a C2-C6 aliphatic monohydric alcohol, even more preferably a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C2-C5 aliphatic monohydric alcohol, most preferably a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C2-C4 aliphatic monohydric alcohol. Preferred non-aromatic monohydric alcohols are ethanol, isopropanol and mixtures thereof.
[0101] The aromatic monohydric alcohol is preferably selected from the group consisting of benzyl alcohol, phenethyl alcohol, diphenylethanol, cinnamic alcohol, tryptophol, 3-nitrobenzyl alcohol, veratryl alcohol, benzoin and mixtures thereof.
[0102] The monohydric alcohol is preferably not an aliphatic or higher alcohol.
[0103] Preferably, the monohydric alcohol is selected from the group consisting of lower aliphatic alcohols, aromatic alcohols, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably, is selected from the group consisting of ethanol, benzyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
[0104] The amount of monohydric alcohol in the composition used in the method according to the invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0105] The amount of monohydric alcohol in the composition used in the method according to the invention may be up to 20% by weight, preferably up to 15% by weight, more preferably up to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0106] The amount of monohydric alcohol in the composition used in the method according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 20% by mass, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by mass, and more preferably from 1% to 10% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0107] (Other Optional Ingredients) The composition used in the method according to the invention also comprises, in particular, oils; solid fatty substances, in particular C8-C 40 Esters, C8-C 40 Acids and C8-C 40 It may also contain at least one other optional ingredient selected from alcohol, thickeners, sunscreens, moisturizers, antidandruff agents, antioxidants, chelating agents, pearlescent and opacifying agents, plasticizers or coalescers, fillers, emulsifiers, polymers, especially conditioning polymers, such as cationic polymers, fragrances, silanes, crosslinkers, and surfactants, including anionic, cationic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants. The composition may, of course, contain some of the cosmetic ingredients that appear in the list above.
[0108] Depending on their nature and the purpose of the composition, the above optional components can be present in conventional amounts that can be easily determined by a person skilled in the art and that can be between 0.01% and 80% by weight for each component. The person skilled in the art will carefully select the components to be included in the composition, as well as their amounts, so that they do not impair the properties of the composition used in the method according to the invention.
[0109] (pH) The pH of the composition used in the method according to the present invention is 8.0 to 12, preferably 8.5 to 11.5, more preferably 9.0 to 11.0, measured at 25°C.
[0110] Therefore, the compositions used in the method according to the invention are not anhydrous.
[0111] It is preferred that the pH of the composition used in the method according to the invention is within ±2 of the pH equal to the equilibrium pKa:
[0112] [ka]
[0113] (viscosity) The composition used in the method according to the invention preferably has a viscosity of at least 800 mPa·s, more preferably at least 1,000 mPa·s, even more preferably at least 1,500 mPa·s. The viscosity can be measured at 25° C. using a rotational viscometer (Vismetron VS-A1: rotor number 3, 12 rpm, high, 30 sec).
[0114] It is also preferred that the composition used in the method according to the invention has a viscosity at 25° C. of 20,000 mPa·s or less, more preferably 15,000 mPa·s or less, even more preferably 10,000 mPa·s or less.
[0115] It may be preferred that the composition used in the method according to the invention has a viscosity at 25°C of 800 mPa·s to 8,000 mPa·s, more preferably 1,000 mPa·s to 6,000 mPa·s, even more preferably 1,500 mPa·s to 4,000 mPa·s, and especially 2,000 mPa·s to 3,000 mPa·s.
[0116] (Ammonia and thiol compounds) It is preferred that the composition used in the method according to the present invention does not contain ammonia or thiol compounds.The term "free of ammonia or thiol compounds" means that the composition used in the method according to the present invention does not contain a substantial amount of ammonia or thiol compounds.Preferably, the composition used in the method according to the present invention contains 1% by weight or less of ammonia or thiol compounds, more preferably 0.5% by weight or less, even more preferably 0.1% by weight or less of ammonia or thiol compounds, and in particular does not contain ammonia or thiol compounds.
[0117] The very low or absent amount of ammonia and / or thiol compounds reduces or prevents malodour during use of the composition used in the method according to the invention.
[0118] A thiol compound, as used herein, refers to a compound having at least one thiol (-SH) group.
[0119] The thiol compound may be a reducing agent. The thiol reducing agent may be selected from the group consisting of thioglycolic acid and its derivatives, especially its esters such as glycerol monothioglycolate or glycol monothioglycolate; thiolactic acid and its derivatives, especially its esters such as glycerol monothiolactic acid; 3-mercaptopropionic acid and its derivatives, especially its esters such as glycerol 3-mercaptopropionate and ethylene glycol 3-mercaptopropionate; cysteamine and its derivatives, especially its C1-C4 acyl derivatives such as N-acetylcysteamine and N-propionylcysteamine; monothioglycerol and its derivatives, especially its esters; cysteine and its derivatives, especially its esters such as N-acetylcysteine, N-alkanoylcysteine and cysteine alkyl esters; thioglycerin and its derivatives, especially its s-alkyl derivatives, and salts thereof.
[0120] Examples of the salts include ammonium salts, primary, secondary, or tertiary amine salts, alkali metal salts, and alkaline earth metal salts. Examples of the primary, secondary, or tertiary amine include monoethanolamine, diisopropanolamine, and triethanolamine, respectively.
[0121] Other examples of thiol reducing agents include, but are not limited to, sugar N-mercaptoalkylamides such as N-(mercapto-2-ethyl)gluconamide, β-mercaptopropionic acid, and derivatives thereof; thiomalic acid such as that described in European Patent Application No. 0354835; pantetheine such as that described in European Patent Application No. 0368763; N-(mercaptoalkyl) ω-hydroxyalkylamides and N-mono- or N,N-dialkylmercapto 4-butylamides; aminomercaptoalkylamides such as those described in European Patent Application No. 0432000 and alkylaminomercaptoalkylamides such as those described in European Patent Application No. 0514282; (2 / 3) hydroxy-2 propyl thioglycolate; and hydroxy-2 methyl-1 ethyl thioglycolate-based mixtures (67 / 33) described in French Patent Application No. 2679448.
[0122] (Reducing and Oxidizing Agents) The compositions used in the methods according to the invention may comprise a reducing agent, however it is preferred that the compositions used in the methods according to the invention comprise reduced amounts of reducing or oxidizing agents, preferably no reducing or oxidizing agents.
[0123] The term "free of reducing or oxidizing agents" means that the composition used in the method according to the invention does not contain a substantial amount of reducing or oxidizing agents. Preferably, the composition used in the method according to the invention contains 1% by weight or less of reducing or oxidizing agents, more preferably 0.5% by weight or less, even more preferably 0.1% by weight or less of reducing or oxidizing agents, and in particular no reducing or oxidizing agents.
[0124] The reducing agent may be a thiol reducing agent or a non-thiol reducing agent. Thiol reducing agents are as described above.
[0125] Non-thiol reducing agent herein means a reducing agent that does not contain a thiol group. Non-thiol reducing agent may be selected from the group consisting of sulfites, bisulfites, sulfinates, phosphines, sugars, reductones and hydrides. Non-thiol reducing agent may be selected from ammonium sulfite and ammonium bisulfite, and sulfites and bisulfites of metals, more preferably sulfites and bisulfites of alkali metals or alkaline earth metals, more preferably sodium sulfite and sodium bisulfite.
[0126] The oxidizing agent may be selected from hydrogen peroxide, alkali metal bromates, ferricyanides, peroxide salts, and compounds capable of generating hydrogen peroxide by hydrolysis. For example, the oxidizing agent may be selected from aqueous hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, and persalts such as perborates and persulfates.
[0127] (form) The composition used in the method according to the invention may be in any form suitable for topical application, in particular in the form of an aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic or oily solution or suspension; in the form of a solution or dispersion of the lotion or serum type; in the form of an emulsion of the O / W, W / O or multiple type, in particular having a liquid or semi-liquid consistency (when the composition used in the method according to the invention comprises at least one oil); in the form of a suspension or emulsion of the (O / W) or (W / O) cream type, having a soft consistency; in the form of an aqueous gel or in the form of any other cosmetic product.
[0128] The composition used in the method according to the invention may be in any herbal form, for example, the composition used in the method according to the invention may be in the form of a cream, lotion, micro / nano emulsion, spray, aerosol, shampoo, conditioner, mask, general hair treatment.
[0129] {process} The method according to the invention comprises the steps of: (1) applying the composition described above onto keratinous fibers; (2) placing keratin fibers within an enclosed space; (3) In the closed space, the keratin fibers are heated at a temperature of preferably 50°C to 250°C, more preferably 60°C to 200°C, and even more preferably 70°C to 150°C, Where: the enclosed space being formed by at least one covering means comprising high density polyethylene; Includes.
[0130] According to step (1) above, the composition described above is applied onto keratinous fibers such as hair. Application of the composition can be carried out by any means, such as a brush or comb. After application, the keratinous fibers can be allowed to remain in that state for a certain period of time, if necessary.
[0131] The compositions described above can be applied to dry or wet keratinous fibers.
[0132] Before or after step (1), the keratinous fibers may be subjected to mechanical tension in order to reshape or deform the keratinous fibers. The mechanical tension may be applied to the keratinous fibers by any means for reshaping or deforming the keratinous fibers into an intended shape. For example, the mechanical tension may be applied by at least one mechanical tensioning means selected from the group consisting of curlers, rollers, plates and irons. The mechanical tensioning means may comprise at least one heater. For example, when the keratinous fibers are wound around curlers, this winding may be performed on the entire length of the keratinous fibers or on a portion of the keratinous fibers, for example on half the length of the keratinous fibers.
[0133] After step (1), the keratinous fibers may be rinsed to remove the composition from the keratinous fibers. The rinsing step may be carried out using water. It is preferred that the keratinous fibers are not dried after rinsing.
[0134] After step (1), if there is no rinsing step as described above, water may be applied to the keratinous fibers in order to wet the keratinous fibers.
[0135] Next, the keratinous fibers are placed in an occluded or closed space according to step (2) above. The occluded space may be formed by at least one covering means. For example, the covering means is wrapped around the keratinous fibers to form an occluded or closed space around the keratinous fibers. Multiple covering means may be used. The covering means may be rigid or flexible.
[0136] "Occluded space" means a closed structure within which heat can be diffused but which does not or is difficult to diffuse outside the closed structure. When the keratinous fibers are hair, it is preferred that the covering means is capable of forming an enclosed space above the head.
[0137] In a preferred embodiment, when the keratin fibers are hair, the covering means may be located on each hair curler as a mechanical tensioning means.In other words, when two or more hair curlers are used, each hair curler may be covered by the covering means individually.It is advantageous to cover each hair curler, because it can prevent the composition applied on the keratin fibers in step (1) from leaking onto the scalp.
[0138] In another preferred embodiment, if more than one hair curler is used, the covering means may cover all the hair curlers, in other words, if the keratin fibres are hair, the covering means may cover the whole of the head.
[0139] The covering means may be in the form of a film or a sheet.
[0140] The covering means includes at least high density polyethylene (HDPE).
[0141] The high density polyethylene has a density of 0.940 or more, preferably 0.941 or more, more preferably 0.942 or more. The high density polyethylene may have a density of 0.970 or less.
[0142] It may be preferred that the high density polyethylene be crystalline or have a linear chemical structure with little branching.
[0143] The melting point of the high density polyethylene according to JIS K 0064 is preferably 120° C. or higher, more preferably 125° C. or higher, and even more preferably 130° C. or higher. The melting point of the high density polyethylene according to JIS K 0064 may be 140° C. or lower.
[0144] The high density polyethylene is preferably a homopolymer of ethylene, but may be a copolymer of ethylene and at least one alpha-olefin such as 1-butene and 1-hexene.
[0145] High density polyethylene (HDPE) can have higher heat resistance than low density polyethylene (LDPE). Therefore, a covering means containing high density polyethylene can form a closed space that can maintain the keratin fibers at high temperatures, which is preferable for reshaping the keratin fibers.
[0146] High density polyethylene (HDPE) can have a lower moisture permeability than low density polyethylene (LDPE). Therefore, a covering means including high density polyethylene can form a closed space that can keep the keratin fibers in a wetter state, which is preferable for reshaping the keratin fibers.
[0147] The covering means may also include any other additional material, without limitation. For example, the covering means, which may be in the form of a film or sheet, may also include, in addition to HDPE, thermoplastic or thermosetting resins other than HDPE, paper, fabric, bonnet, metal foil such as aluminum foil, etc.
[0148] When the covering means is in the form of a film or sheet, it may be a single film or sheet comprising only one layer, or a laminated film or sheet comprising several layers. It may be preferred that the film or sheet is a single film or sheet and not a laminated film or sheet.
[0149] It is preferred that a single film or sheet comprising HDPE, more preferably a single film or sheet consisting essentially of HDPE, is used as the covering means. Thus, it is preferred that a single film or sheet having only one layer comprises HDPE as the only resin material of the single film or sheet or as the main material of the single film or sheet, wherein the amount of HDPE is more than 60% by weight, preferably more than 70% by weight, more preferably more than 80% by weight, even more preferably more than 90% by weight, based on the total weight of the single film or sheet.
[0150] The covering means, which may be in the form of a film or a sheet, may be placed on the keratinous fibres on a heating rod, heating bar or heating plate covered by the keratinous fibres.
[0151] The coating means may be provided with a source of thermal energy, thus for example a coating means in the form of a film or sheet provided with a heater may be placed over the keratinous fibres on a rod, bar or plate covered by the keratinous fibres.
[0152] The closed space can limit the evaporation of volatile components such as water in the composition applied to the keratinous fibers, and therefore the temperature of the keratinous fibers can be increased higher than can be obtained by conventional heating processes or devices for keratinous fibers in an open state. Furthermore, the keratinous fibers can be efficiently heated, and the keratinous fibers can be heated evenly.
[0153] According to one variant of the invention, the enclosed space may be provided with openings, the surface area of which is less than 5%, preferably less than 3% and more particularly less than 0.5% of the total surface area of the covering means, which, according to this variant, includes the surface area of the opening means for the covering means, if present.
[0154] The openings may be passages, holes or holes, which may allow air exchange between the enclosed space and its outside, especially when reactions such as forming steam inside the enclosed space are too great, while those skilled in the art may form the openings in such a way that the diffusion of heat in the enclosed space is not impaired.
[0155] Preferably, the method according to the invention may comprise the additional step of fastening the covering means on the individual's head by means of elastics, extensible bands or stretches when the keratinous fibres are hair.
[0156] The keratin fibers are then heated according to step (3) above. The heating step can be carried out by any heating means that can be freely controlled to achieve the temperature desired for the heating step. The heating means can be in the form of a heating rod, a heating bar or a heating plate. If the covering means is equipped with a heater, the heater can be used as the heating means.
[0157] The keratin fibers can be heated, for example, to a temperature of more than 30°C. During the step of heating the keratin fibers, the keratin fibers may be heated at 50°C to 250°C, preferably 60°C to 200°C, more preferably 70°C to 150°C, even more preferably 80°C to 100°C. The heating step can be carried out for a suitable time that is necessary to treat the keratin fibers. The length of time for the heating step is not limited, but it may be 1 minute to 2 hours, preferably 5 minutes to 1 hour, more preferably 10 minutes to 40 minutes.
[0158] In this step, the temperature can be set, adjusted and controlled by using one or more heating means, and may be measured by setting a heat measurement probe on the keratin fiber, such as a digital surface sensor module with reference MT-144 sold by Sakaguchi Denetsu Co., Ltd. (Japan). Usually, the probe can be set on a single keratin fiber. However, it is advantageous to set the probe on the keratin fiber in a portion that is in direct contact with the occluded space, more preferably to set the probe on the keratin fiber in a portion that is in direct contact with the occluded space to form the curled end of the keratin fiber when a curler is used.
[0159] Preferably, the temperature is measured at atmospheric pressure of 101,325 Pa.
[0160] According to the present invention, the temperature of the keratinous fibers can be constant with a variation of ±2°C or 3°C across an individual's head when the keratinous fibers are hair, and the probe can be set on any type of keratinous fiber.
[0161] When the keratin fibers are hair, according to the present invention, a constant temperature with a variation of ±2° C. or 3° C. can be obtained for any type of hair, and the temperature of the hair can be controlled to a constant ±2° C. or 3° C. during heating of the hair at a specific temperature. In this way, the hairstyle becomes uniform and homogeneous throughout the hair, and finally, a better hairstyle can be obtained.
[0162] The closed space can form a condensation cage in which volatile components such as water in the composition can evaporate from the keratin fibers, adhere to the walls of the coating means, and fall onto the keratin fibers. This cycle can be repeated during heating of the keratin fibers. In this way, the keratin fibers can be kept wet and drying and deterioration of the keratin fibers are prevented.
[0163] The formation of closed spaces is an important feature of the present invention because it allows the keratinous fibers in the closed spaces to be kept wet and allows the temperature of the keratinous fibers to be maintained constant.
[0164] After step (3), the covering means around the keratinous fibers may be removed, which may be referred to as step (4).
[0165] After step (3) (or after step (4) if present), the keratinous fibers may be rinsed and preferably dried. The rinsing step may be carried out using water.
[0166] According to the method of the present invention, no or little reducing or oxidizing agent may be used to reshape or transform keratin fibers such as hair. Thus, compared to conventional reshaping or transforming methods for keratin fibers that require reduction / oxidation of keratin fibers, the method of the present invention can reduce the time required to reshape or transform keratin fibers.
[0167] Furthermore, the method according to the invention may require no or little use of reducing or oxidizing agents, and therefore damage to keratin fibers may be reduced compared to conventional methods that require the use of reducing or oxidizing agents.
[0168] In addition, the method according to the present invention may not require any or little use of ammonia or thiol compounds, and therefore odor during the process may be reduced compared to conventional methods that require the use of ammonia or thiol compounds. EXAMPLES
[0169] The present invention will be described in more detail by examples. However, these examples should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.
[0170] (Example 1 and Comparative Example 1) The following compositions shown in Table 1 were prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 1. All figures for the amounts of ingredients shown in Table 1 are based on "wt %" as the active ingredient.
[0171] [Table 1]
[0172] Example 1 1 g of the above composition was applied to a Japanese hair sample (1 g, 27 cm) that had been previously wound on a perm roller with a diameter of 2.0 cm. The hair on the perm roller was then covered with an HDPE film and connected to a digital perm machine (Daihiro Manufacturing Co., Ltd., Model ODIS-2). After a heating process at 90°C for 8 minutes, the hair was rinsed and dried.
[0173] Comparative Example 1 1 g of the above composition was applied to a Japanese hair sample (1 g, 27 cm) that had been previously wound on a perm roller with a diameter of 2.0 cm. The hair on the perm roller was then covered with an LDPE film and connected to a digital perm machine (Daihiro Manufacturing Co., Ltd., Model ODIS-2). After a heating process at 90°C for 8 minutes, the hair was rinsed and dried.
[0174] evaluation (Number of curls) The method according to Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 was carried out twice. The curl number of the hair swatches was counted by visual observation. The average curl number was determined.
[0175] The results are shown in Table 2.
[0176] (length) The method according to Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 was carried out twice. The length of the hair swatches was measured. The average length of the hair swatches was determined.
[0177] The results are shown in Table 2.
[0178] (Curl Efficiency) The methods according to Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 were each carried out twice. The curl efficiency was calculated by the following formula: (length of hair swatch before curling-length of hair swatch after curling) / length of hair swatch before curling. It should be noted that the length of the hair swatch before curling was 26 cm, since the top 1 cm of the hair swatch was used to fix the hair swatch on the plate.
[0179] The average curl efficiency was determined.
[0180] The results are shown in Table 2.
[0181] [Table 2]
[0182] Photographs of curled hair samples in Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 are shown in FIG.
[0183] From Table 2 and FIG. 1, it is clear that the hair sample curled in Example 1 had stronger curls than the hair sample curled in Comparative Example 1.
[0184] The difference in curling can be attributed to the use of a covering means made of HDPE (high density polyethylene) in Example 1 or a covering means made of LDPE (low density polyethylene) in Comparative Example 1.
[0185] The above experimental data demonstrates that the use of a coating means comprising high density polyethylene (HDPE) can impart surprisingly improved reshaping efficiency to keratin fibers compared to the use of a coating means comprising another thermoplastic resin, such as low density polyethylene (LDPE).
Claims
1. 1. A method for reshaping, preferably permanently reshaping, more preferably permanently waving, keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising: (1) (a) an alkylaminosulfonic acid and a compound of formula (I) and (II) below: 【Chemistry 1】 [In the formula, R is a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched, preferably linear C 1 ~C 5 represents an alkyl group, and the alkyl group is a hydroxyl group, an amino group, a carboxamide group, C 6 ~C 18 Aromatic group, heterocyclic group, -C(O)-OH, -S(O) 2 -OH, -C(O)-O - M + , -S(O) 2 -O - M + and mixtures thereof; + represents a cationic counterion such as an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium; - n is 0 or 1; and (b) Water and A composition comprising: the pH of the composition is 8.0 to 12, preferably 8.5 to 11.5, more preferably 9.0 to 11.0; (2) placing the keratin fibers in an enclosed space; and (3) heating the keratin fibers in the enclosed space at a temperature of preferably 50°C to 250°C, preferably 60°C to 200°C, more preferably 70°C to 150°C; where: the enclosed space is formed by at least one covering means comprising high density polyethylene; A method comprising:
2. 10. The method of claim 1, further comprising, after step (3), step (4) of removing the covering means from around the keratin fibers.
3. The method of claim 1, wherein the coating means is in the form of a film or sheet.
4. 2. The method according to claim 1, further comprising a step of applying mechanical tension to the keratinous fibers before or after step (1), preferably by at least one reshaping means selected from the group consisting of curlers, rollers, plates and irons.
5. The method of claim 1, further comprising the step of rinsing the keratin fibers after step (1).
6. 10. The method of claim 1, wherein the pH of the composition is within ±2 of a pH equal to the equilibrium pKa of: 【Chemistry 2】
7. 2. The method of claim 1, wherein the (a) compound is selected from the group consisting of alkylaminosulfonic acids such as 2-(cyclohexylamino)ethanesulfonic acid; amino acids such as glycine, alanine, glutamic acid, aspartic acid, phenylalanine, β-alanine, isoleucine, leucine, proline, glutamine, serine, threonine, valine, tryptophan, and tyrosine; oligomers of amino acids such as glycylglycine; aminosulfonic acids such as taurine; and mixtures thereof.
8. 2. The method of claim 1, wherein the (a) compound is selected from the group consisting of 2-(cyclohexylamino)ethanesulfonic acid, glycine, alanine, taurine, and mixtures thereof.
9. 2. The method according to claim 1, wherein the amount of the (a) compound in the composition is from 1% to 25% by weight, preferably from 3% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
10. The method according to claim 1, wherein the amount of (b) water in the composition is 50% to 95% by mass, preferably 60% to 90% by mass, and more preferably 70% to 85% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
11. The method of claim 1, wherein the composition comprises (c) at least one alkaline agent, preferably an inorganic alkaline agent.
12. 12. The method of claim 11, wherein the alkaline agent (c) is selected from the group consisting of alkali metal hydroxides; and alkaline earth metal hydroxides, alkali metal phosphates and / or monohydrogen phosphates.
13. The method according to claim 11, wherein the amount of the (c) alkaline agent in the composition is 0.1% by mass to 15% by mass, preferably 0.5% by mass to 10% by mass, and more preferably 1% by mass to 5% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
14. 2. The method of claim 1, wherein the composition does not contain any ammonia or thiol compounds or contains less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, of ammonia or thiol compounds relative to the total weight of the composition.
15. 2. The method of claim 1, wherein the composition does not contain any reducing or oxidizing agents or contains less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, of reducing or oxidizing agents relative to the total weight of the composition.