Cosmetic and / or dermatological composition comprising at least one merocyanine and at least ascorbic acid and / or its derivatives

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition comprising: a) a compound of formula (I): The present invention relates to a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition comprising at least one merocyanine corresponding to JPEG2024546871000038.jpg27170 and also its geometric isomeric forms, in particular its E / E or E / Z geometric isomeric forms, b) ascorbic acid and / or its derivatives. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for the care and / or make-up of keratinous materials, comprising applying to the surface of said keratinous materials at least one composition as defined above.

Description

[Technical field]

[0001] The present invention relates to cosmetic and / or dermatological compositions comprising at least one merocyanine of formula (I) as defined in detail below, and ascorbic acid and / or its derivatives.

[0002] These compositions are preferentially intended to prevent and / or treat the signs of ageing of keratinous materials such as the skin, and in particular to increase the collagen synthesis. [Background technology]

[0003] Human skin is composed of two tissues: the superficial tissue (epidermis) and the deeper tissue (dermis).

[0004] The natural human epidermis is composed mainly of three types of cells: keratinocytes, which form the bulk, melanocytes and Langerhans cells. Each of these types of cells, with its specific function, contributes to the essential role played by the skin in the body, in particular its role of protecting the body against external aggressors (weather, UV rays, smoking, etc.), also known as the "barrier function".

[0005] The dermis acts as a solid support for the epidermis. It is also the component that delivers nutrients. It is composed primarily of fibroblasts and an extracellular matrix that is composed mostly of collagen, elastin and a substance known as ground substance. These components are synthesized by the fibroblasts. White blood cells, mast cells and tissue macrophages are also present there. Finally, blood vessels and nerve fibers pass through the dermis.

[0006] The cohesion between the epidermis and the dermis is given by the dermo-epidermal junction. It is a complex region about 100 nm thick, which includes the basal pole of the basal keratinocyte, the epidermal membrane and the subbasal zone of the upper dermis (Non-Patent Document 1). From a structural point of view, hemidesmosomes (hemidesmosome-tonofilament complexes) with inserted keratin filaments are distributed on the plasma membrane of the basal keratinocyte. Facing these hemidesmosome-tonofilament complexes are the anchoring filaments that cross the epidermal basement membrane. The anchoring filaments are connected to laminin 5 on the epidermal side. Finally, the anchoring fibers constitute the subbasal network. They are curvilinear structures that start and end at the deep surface of the basement membrane and engage collagen I, III and V fibers. These anchoring fibers can be perfectly visualized by electron microscopy and have been shown to be composed of type VII collagen (hereafter collagen VII). Collagen VII is synthesized by keratinocytes and fibroblasts, with the majority being synthesized by keratinocytes (Non-Patent Document 2, Non-Patent Document 3).

[0007] Collagen is therefore the main protein of the extracellular matrix. To date, 20 types of collagen have been identified, I to XX. Within these types, there are various collagen families, depending on the structures they form: a family of fibrillar collagens (types I, II, V / XI) that form fibers; A family of collagens that form the network of five basement membranes, including collagen types VI and XVII; Collagens forming hexagonal networks (types VIII and X), beaded filaments (type VI), FACITs (types IX, XII, XIV, XVI, XIX, XX); Anchoring fibers corresponding to type VII; Multiplexins (types XV and XVII), and Type XIII collagen, whose exact function is currently unknown.

[0008] In skin, the predominant collagens present throughout the dermis are types I and III collagen, which form the extracellular matrix throughout the dermis (these collagens make up 70-80% of the dry mass of the dermis).

[0009] Furthermore, collagens are not all synthesized by the same cell type: collagens I and III are primarily produced by dermal fibroblasts, while collagen VII is produced by epidermal keratinocytes. Finally, the regulation of their expression differs from collagen to collagen: for example, collagens I and VII are not regulated in the same manner by specific cytokines. Specifically, TNF-alpha and leukoregulin stimulate collagen VII and negatively regulate collagen I.

[0010] Finally, all collagen molecules are variants of a common precursor, the α-chain procollagen.

[0011] With age, collagen becomes thinner and wrinkles appear on the surface of the skin. Skin aging is a genetically programmed mechanism. In addition, certain environmental factors such as smoking and especially sun exposure accelerate it. Thus, areas exposed to sunlight, such as the back of the hand or the skin on the face, look much older. Thus, these other factors also have a negative effect on the natural collagen of the skin.

[0012] Therefore, considering the crucial role of collagen, and in particular type I collagen, in the adhesion between epidermal and dermal tissues and thus in the integrity of the skin and its resistance to mechanical external aggressors, stimulating the synthesis of these various forms of collagen appears to be an effective means of alleviating the signs of skin aging. [Prior art documents] [Non-patent literature]

[0013] [Non-Patent Document 1] Bernard P.,Structure de la jonction dermo-epidermique.Objectif peau.2001,68:87-93 [Non-Patent Document 2] Aumailley M,Rousselle P.Laminins of the dermoepdiermal junction.Matrix Biology.1999,18:19-28 [Non-Patent Document 3] Nievers M, Schaapveld R, Sonnenberg A. Biology and function of hemidesmosomes, Matrix Biology, 1999, 18:5-17 Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0014] The object of the present invention is precisely to propose new cosmetic and / or dermatological compositions which limit the signs of ageing, whether chronobiological or photoinduced, of keratinous materials such as the skin, in particular ageing caused by a loss of skin elasticity and / or by the degradation of collagen in the structure of the cutaneous tissue.

[0015] However, it is very difficult to find cosmetic and / or dermatological compositions that are particularly suitable for preventing and / or treating the signs of ageing of keratinous materials such as the skin, in order to improve the quality of the skin, for example its mechanical elasticity, and at the same time exhibit good cosmetic and sensory properties, in particular a fresh and smooth feeling on application or a pleasant (particularly soft) skin finish.

[0016] In light of the above, it is therefore clear that there remains a consumer demand for cosmetic and / or dermatological compositions which are suitable for preventing and / or treating the signs of ageing of keratinous materials such as the skin, and which at the same time have satisfactory cosmetic properties, in particular their sensory properties upon application, advantageous properties in particular with regard to the sensory feel. [Means for solving the problem]

[0017] The present invention is directed to meeting precisely these needs.

[0018] The Applicant has surprisingly found that by combining a merocyanine of formula (I) as defined below with ascorbic acid and / or its derivatives, it is possible to substantially improve the action of ascorbic acid and / or its derivatives when exposed to UV-A radiation, in particular due to the surprisingly improved effect of this combination on the production of procollagen.

[0019] The Applicant has surprisingly found that cosmetic and / or dermatological compositions comprising at least one merocyanine of formula (I) as defined below and at least ascorbic acid and / or its derivatives make it possible to effectively prevent and / or treat the signs of ageing of keratinous materials such as the skin, in particular when exposed to UV-A radiation, whilst exhibiting particularly good cosmetic properties.

[0020] In particular, the Applicant has found that these cosmetic and / or dermatological compositions according to the invention comprising at least one merocyanine of formula (I) defined below and at least ascorbic acid and / or its derivatives, and in particular comprising a content of UVA screening agents of less than 10% by weight, more in particular less than 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, are able to effectively prevent and / or treat the signs of ageing of keratinous materials such as the skin, whilst exhibiting good cosmetic properties, the latter being in particular less greasy and less sticky than comparable compositions comprising a higher content of organic UVA screening agents.

[0021] The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for caring for and / or making up keratinous materials, comprising applying to the surface of said keratinous materials at least one composition according to the invention as defined above.

[0022] The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for preventing and / or treating the signs of ageing, such as photoageing, of keratinous materials, comprising applying to the surface of the keratinous materials at least one composition as defined above.

[0023] The present invention relates to the use of at least one merocyanine of formula (I) as defined below in combination with ascorbic acid and / or its derivatives for reducing or treating the signs of ageing, in particular the cutaneous signs of photoageing, in particular for improving the elasticity, firmness and evenness, microirregularities and / or wrinkles and fine lines of the facial skin and / or for reducing the signs associated with elastosis of keratinous materials such as the skin.

[0024] The combination according to the invention is effective in combating the signs of skin ageing more effectively and / or stimulating the skin's renewal / repair processes.

[0025] The combinations according to the invention therefore have a particular application in cosmetic compositions intended to prevent and / or cosmetically treat skin ageing, in particular topically preventing and / or treating skin signs of ageing, most particularly skin signs associated with wrinkled skin, skin showing a decrease in its viscoelastic or biomechanical properties and / or skin showing a change in its surface appearance.

[0026] In particular, it has surprisingly been found that merocyanines of formula (I) as defined below are capable of stimulating and enhancing the effect of ascorbic acid and / or its derivatives on the production of procollagen I by fibroblasts.

[0027] Other features, aspects and advantages of the present invention will become apparent from reading the detailed description that follows.

[0028] The composition according to the invention is intended for topical application and therefore contains a physiologically acceptable medium. The term "physiologically acceptable medium" means herein a medium that is compatible with keratinous materials.

[0029] In the context of the present invention, the term "keratinous materials" means in particular keratinous fibres such as the skin, scalp, eyelashes, eyebrows, head hair, body hair, nails, mucous membranes such as the lips, more in particular the skin and mucous membranes (body, face, area around the eyes, eyelids, lips, preferably body, face and lips).

[0030] According to the invention, the term "prevent" or "prevention" means reducing the risk or delaying the appearance of a given phenomenon, namely the signs of ageing of keratinous materials according to the invention.

[0031] The use of a composition according to the invention comprising a merocyanine of formula (I) as defined below and ascorbic acid and / or its derivatives makes it more particularly possible to maintain and / or restore the biomechanical properties of the skin and / or to prevent and / or treat the signs of skin ageing.

[0032] The term "biomechanical properties of the skin" as used herein refers to the stretchability, tautness, firmness, flexibility and / or elasticity of the skin.

[0033] The term "signs of cutaneous ageing" means herein changes in the appearance of the skin due to ageing, whether it is chronobiological and / or extrinsic ageing, in particular photoinduced or hormonal ageing; among these signs, the following may be noted: - Wrinkled skin, especially reflected in the appearance of wrinkles and / or fine lines; - skin showing impairment of its viscoelastic or biomechanical properties or loss of elasticity and / or extensibility and / or firmness and / or flexibility and / or tautness, reflected in particular in shriveled, loose, loose or saggy skin; - Skin showing impaired tissue adhesion; - Thinning skin; and - Skin showing disturbances in the surface appearance, especially reflected in disturbances in the skin texture, e.g. irregularities.

[0034] The present invention relates to the non-therapeutic use of one or more compounds of formula (I) according to the invention and ascorbic acid and / or its derivatives as a medicament for preventing and / or reducing the signs of ageing of the skin.

[0035] Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention relates to a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition, in particular for making up and / or caring for keratinous materials, comprising: - of the following formula (I): [Chemical formula 1] [ka] (In the formula, - A is -O- or -NH; - R is C1~C 22 Alkyl groups, C2-C 22 Alkenyl groups, C2-C 22 Alkynyl groups, C3-C 22 Cycloalkyl group or C3-C 22 a cycloalkenyl group, said group being optionally interrupted by one or more O and its E / E- or E / Z-geometric isomeric forms; - with at least ascorbic acid and / or its derivatives The present invention relates to a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition comprising:

[0036] According to another of its aspects, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic method, in particular a non-therapeutic method, for the care of keratinous materials, in particular of the body and / or face, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratinous materials a composition as defined above.

[0037] Other features, aspects and advantages of the present invention will become apparent from reading the detailed description that follows. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS

[0038] The compositions according to the invention are for cosmetic and / or dermatological purposes, preferably for cosmetic purposes.

[0039] The compositions according to the invention are generally suitable for topical application to the skin and therefore generally comprise a physiologically acceptable medium, ie a medium that is compatible with the skin.

[0040] This is preferably a cosmetically acceptable medium, i.e. one that has a pleasant color, odor and feel and does not produce any unacceptable discomfort, i.e. stinging, tightness or redness, that may deter the user from applying the composition.

[0041] Merocyanine As mentioned above, the composition according to the present invention comprises a compound represented by the following formula (I): [Chemical formula 2] [ka] (In the formula, - A is -O- or -NH; - R is C1~C 22 Alkyl groups, C2-C 22 Alkenyl groups, C2-C 22 Alkynyl groups, C3-C 22 Cycloalkyl group or C3-C 22 a cycloalkenyl group, said group being optionally interrupted by one or more O and its E / E- or E / Z-geometric isomeric forms.

[0042] As stated above, the merocyanine compounds of the present invention may be in the form of their E / E- or E / Z-geometric isomers. [Chemical formula 3] [ka]

[0043] In the compounds of formula (I), preferably, A is -O- and R is a C1-C aryl group which may be interrupted by one or more O. 22 It is an alkyl.

[0044] Among the compounds of formula (I), more particularly at least one selected from the following compounds and their E / E- or E / Z-geometric isomeric forms is used:

[0045] [Table 1]

[0046] According to a more particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, compounds (A) and / or (C) and mixtures thereof, even more preferentially compound (C) in its E / E and / or E / Z geometric configuration, are used.

[0047] Thus, preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises 2-ethoxyethyl (2Z)-cyano{3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]cyclohex-2-en-1-ylidene}ethanoate (C), also known as methoxypropylaminocyclohexenylideneethoxyethyl cyanoacetate, in its E / E and / or E / Z geometric configuration.

[0048] The E / Z configuration has the following structure: [Chemical formula 4] [ka]

[0049] The E / E form has the following structure: [Chemical formula 5] [ka]

[0050] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one merocyanine of formula (I) as defined above in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.2% to 10% by weight and more preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0051] In general, merocyanine type compounds can be prepared by known methods, for example as described in J. Org. Chem. USSR (English translation) 26(8), p. 1562f (1990); J. Heterocycl. Chem. 33(3), pages 763-766 (1996); Khimiya Geterotsiklicheskikh Soedinenii 11, pages 1537-1543 (1984); Khimiya Geterotsiklicheskikh Soedinenii 3, pages 397-404 (1982); Chem. Heterocycl. Comp. (English translation), 24(8), 914-919 (1988) and Synthetic Communications, Vol. 33, No. 3, 2003, pages 367-371.

[0052] With regard to the compounds of formula (I) which have the particular feature of having a carbocyclic ring containing 6 carbon atoms which are particularly considered by the present invention, they may be prepared according to the protocols described in WO 2007 / 071582, IP.com Journal (2009), 9(5A), 29-30 IPCOM000182396D entitled "Process for producing 3-amino-2-cyclohexan-1-ylidene compounds" and US Pat. No. 4,749,643, column 13, line 66 to column 14, line 57 and the references cited in this regard.

[0053] In particular, the compound of formula (I) in Table 1 above is described in B. Winkler et al., Tetrahedron Letters, 55 (2014) 1749-1751 (titled "A cyclic merocyanine UV-A absorber: Mechanism of formation and crystal structure"). The compound of formula (I) can be synthesized according to the synthesis scheme shown below. [Chemical formula 6] [ka]

[0054] For compound (C) of Table 1, the following synthetic scheme is preferred. [Chemical formula 7] [ka]

[0055] The synthesis illustrated by this scheme is specifically detailed in Example A4 below.

[0056] Ascorbic acid and / or derivatives As mentioned above, the compositions according to the present invention comprise ascorbic acid, also known as vitamin C, and / or its derivatives.

[0057] In particular, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.01% to 30% by weight, more particularly from 2% to 20% by weight, preferably from 5% to 15% by weight, of ascorbic acid, also known as vitamin C, and / or its derivatives, and more preferentially ascorbic acid, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0058] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises between 2% and 20% by weight, and more preferentially between 5% and 15% by weight, of active substance ascorbic acid, also known as vitamin C, and / or its derivatives, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0059] More preferentially, the composition according to the invention comprises between 2% and 20% by weight, and more preferentially between 5% and 15% by weight, of active substance ascorbic acid relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0060] The ascorbic acid may be in the D or L form, advantageously in the L form.

[0061] By way of example, the ascorbic acid according to the invention is sold under the trade name Ascorbic Acid EP / BP / USP / FCC / E300® by Northeast General Pharmaceutical Factory, Ascorbic Acid 100 MESH® by CSPC Weisheng Pharmaceutical or Ascorbic Acid Ultra Fine Powder® by DSM.

[0062] The ascorbic acid derivative according to the present invention may be selected from its salts, esters, ethers and sugars.

[0063] The salts of ascorbic acid may in particular be chosen from sodium ascorbate, magnesium or sodium ascorbyl phosphate, its ethers, such as in particular the acetate, propionate or palmitate, or its sugars, in particular glycosylated ascorbic acid.

[0064] Ascorbic acid is very sensitive due to its chemical structure (alpha-keto lactone), it may be advantageous to use it in the form of sugar esters of ascorbic acid or metal salts of phosphated ascorbic acid.

[0065] Sugar esters of ascorbic acid which can be used in the present invention are in particular the glycosyl, mannosyl, fructosyl, fucosyl, galactosyl, N-acetylglucosamine and N-acetylmuramic acid derivatives of ascorbic acid and mixtures thereof, more in particular ascorbyl-2 glucoside or 2-O-α-D-glucopyranosyl L-ascorbic acid or 6-O-β-D-galactopyranosyl L-ascorbic acid. The latter compounds and the methods for their preparation are described in particular in EP-A-487404, EP-A-425066 and JP-A-05-213736.

[0066] The metal phosphate ascorbyl phosphate may be selected from alkali metal ascorbyl phosphates, alkaline earth metal and transition metal ascorbyl phosphates, magnesium, sodium, potassium, calcium and zinc ascorbyl phosphates.

[0067] According to a particular embodiment, the ascorbic acid derivative is selected from ascorbyl-2-glucoside, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid.

[0068] More particularly, the ascorbic acid derivative is selected from ascorbyl-2 glucoside (or 2-O-α-D glucopyranosyl of L-ascorbic acid) and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate.

[0069] The ascorbic acid derivative can be 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid (or ethyl ascorbic acid or L-ascorbic acid, 3-O-ethyl ether).

[0070] By way of example, ascorbyl-2 glucoside (or 2-O-α-D-glucopyranosyl L-ascorbic acid) is sold under the trade name L-Ascorbic Acid 2-Glucoside® (containing 100% ascorbyl-2 glucoside active substance) by Northeast General Pharmaceutical Factory or under the trade name L-Ascorbic Acid 2-Glucoside® (containing 100% ascorbyl-2 glucoside active substance) by Hayashibara.

[0071] As an example, 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid (or ethyl ascorbic acid) is sold by Nippon Hypox Laboratories under the trade name Vitamin C Ethyl® (containing 100% 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid active substance).

[0072] By way of example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (73% active substance in water) is sold under the trade name Ascorbyl PM® by Showa Denko Co., Ltd., or under the trade name Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate® by Jingjiang Hengtong Bio-Engineering Co., Ltd., or under the trade name Ronacare MAP® by Merck Co., Ltd.

[0073] aqueous phase The composition according to the invention may comprise an aqueous phase and optionally an oily phase.

[0074] The aqueous phase comprises water and optionally a water-soluble organic solvent, and is preferably a single phase.

[0075] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention has a water content ranging from 10% to 98% by weight, preferably from 25% to 90% by weight and more preferentially from 35% to 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0076] According to the present invention, the term "water-soluble organic solvent" refers to a compound which is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility with water is greater than 50% by weight at atmospheric pressure at 25°C).

[0077] The water-soluble solvents that can be used in the compositions of the present invention can also be volatile. In particular, to obtain compositions with a BC3 content of >0.9%, a water-soluble co-solvent is used in addition to the hydrotrope.

[0078] Among the water-soluble solvents that may be used in the composition according to the invention, most particularly the lower monoalcohols containing 1 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol, may be used, and also the alkylene carbonates.

[0079] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention also comprises at least one alcohol, in particular a monoalcohol, preferably ethanol.

[0080] Preferably, in the composition according to the invention, the alcohol may be present in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 30% by weight, even better from 2.0% to 25% by weight, preferably from 3.0% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0081] According to one embodiment variant, the aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention comprises at least one C2 to C 32 It may include a polyol.

[0082] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polyol" should be understood to mean any organic molecule containing at least two free hydroxyl groups.

[0083] Preferably, the polyol according to the invention is in liquid form at room temperature.

[0084] Polyols suitable for use in the present invention may be linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated alkyl-type compounds having at least two -OH groups, particularly at least three -OH groups, more particularly at least four -OH groups on the alkyl chain.

[0085] In particular, polyols that are particularly suitable for composing the compositions according to the invention are especially those containing from 2 to 32 carbon atoms, preferably from 3 to 16 carbon atoms.

[0086] The polyol may be selected, for example, from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, C3 ketones and C4 ketones and C2-C4 aldehydes, caprylyl glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols such as glycerol oligomers, e.g. diglycerol, polyethylene glycol and mixtures thereof.

[0087] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the polyol is selected from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, pentylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol (DPG), caprylyl glycol, glycerol, polyglycerol, polyethylene glycol (PEG) and mixtures thereof.

[0088] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one polyol, in particular a polyol chosen from glycerol, caprylyl glycol, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, dipropylene glycol (DPG), PEG-8 and mixtures thereof.

[0089] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention may comprise at least one polyol, in particular a polyol chosen from propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, dipropylene glycol (DPG) and mixtures thereof.

[0090] Preferably, the composition of the present invention may contain at least dipropylene glycol (DPG) as a polyol.

[0091] If a polyol is present, it may preferably be present in a content ranging from 0.5% to 40% by weight, even better from 10% to 20% by weight, preferably from 5% to 15% by weight and preferentially from 7% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0092] According to another particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises a compound of formula (II): [Chemical formula 8] [ka] (In the formula, R' represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1 to C6 alkyl group, or a linear or branched C1 to C4 hydroxyalkyl group; R″ represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1 to C6 alkyl group, or a linear or branched C1 to C4 hydroxyalkyl group; m is 1, 2 or 3. The composition may comprise at least one alkylene carbonate selected from the following:

[0093] Preferably, the group R' represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl group or a linear or branched C1-C2 hydroxyalkyl group.

[0094] R'' represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1 to C2 alkyl group, or a linear or branched C1 to C2 hydroxyalkyl group.

[0095] Preferably, m is 1.

[0096] Particularly advantageous examples of alkylene carbonates include compounds in which the radical R' represents a hydrogen atom (corresponding to ethylene carbonate), a methyl group (corresponding to propylene carbonate), an ethyl group (corresponding to 1,2-butylene carbonate) or a hydroxymethyl group (R'=-CHOH; corresponding to glyceryl carbonate).

[0097] Preferably, the alkylene carbonate used is propylene carbonate.

[0098] The alkyl or alkylene carbonate may be present in the composition according to the invention in a concentration ranging from 0.1% to 98% by weight, in particular from 0.5% to 50% by weight, preferentially from 1% to 20% by weight, even more particularly from 1% to 10% by weight and in particular from 1% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0099] According to another particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises nicotinamide, caffeine, salicylate, the sodium salt of pyroglutamic acid (sodium PCA), sodium 1,3-benzenedisulfonate, sodium benzoate, sodium 4-pyridinecarboxylate, sodium benzenesulfonate, sodium p-toluenesulfonate (NaPTS), sodium butylmonoglycol sulfate (NaBMGS), 4-aminobenzoic acid HCl, sodium cumenesulfonate, N,N-diethylnicotinamide, N-picolylnicotinamide, N-methyl-1,2-dimethyl-2,3-dimethyl-2,4-dimethyl-1,5-trimethyl-2,5-trimethyl ... The composition also includes at least one hydrotrope selected from tinamide, N-allylnicotinamide, 2-methacryloyloxyethyl phosphorylcholine, resorcinol, pyrogallol, N-picolylacetamide, procaine HCl, proline HCl, pyridine, 3-picolylamine, sodium ibuprofen, sodium xylene sulfonate (SXS), ethyl carbamate, pyridoxal hydrochloride, sodium benzoate, N,N-dimethylacetamide, N-methylacetamide, isoniazid, and mixtures thereof.

[0100] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one hydrotrope chosen from nicotinamide, caffeine, salicylates and mixtures thereof.

[0101] The salicylates may be chosen in particular from sodium salicylate, lysine salicylate, arginine salicylate, magnesium salicylate and mixtures thereof.

[0102] Preferably, the salicylate is sodium salicylate.

[0103] According to another particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least nicotinamide as hydrotrope.

[0104] The content of hydrotrope according to the invention present in the composition according to the invention may range from 0.1% to 20% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight and in particular from 0.5% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0105] Thus, according to one variant embodiment, the composition according to the invention may contain at least one organic solvent, in particular chosen from alcohols, and in particular polyols and alkylene carbonates, together with at least one hydrotrope.

[0106] Besides the above mentioned solvents, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one organic solvent chosen from: - ketones that are liquid at room temperature, such as methyl ethyl ketone, methyl isobutyl ketone, diisobutyl ketone, isophorone, cyclohexanone or acetone; - cyclic ethers such as gamma-butyrolactone; - short chain esters (containing 3 to 8 carbon atoms in total), such as ethyl acetate, butyl acetate, methyl acetate, propyl acetate, isopropyl acetate, isopentyl acetate, methoxypropyl acetate or butyl lactate; - ethers that are liquid at room temperature, such as diethyl ether, dimethyl ether or dichlorodiethyl ether; - alkanes that are liquid at room temperature, such as decane, heptane, dodecane or cyclohexane; - Alkyl sulfoxides such as dimethyl sulfoxide; - aldehydes that are liquid at room temperature, such as benzaldehyde or acetaldehyde; - ethyl 3-ethoxypropionate; - acetals, such as methylal; and - A mixture of these.

[0107] The aqueous phase may also include any water-soluble or water-dispersible compounds that are miscible with the aqueous phase, such as stabilizers, gelling agents, film-forming polymers, thickeners, surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

[0108] Preferably, the aqueous phase is present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 1% to 100% by weight, preferably from 20% to 95% by weight and more preferentially from 30% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0109] fat phase As mentioned above, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one fatty phase.

[0110] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "fatty phase" means a phase comprising at least one oil and all the fat-soluble and lipophilic components and fatty substances used to constitute the composition of the invention.

[0111] In particular, the composition according to the invention may comprise from 5% to 95% by weight and preferably from 10% to 80% by weight of a fatty phase relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0112] The fatty phase of the composition according to the invention may comprise an oil, a wax, a pasty compound and / or a silicone compound, preferably at least one oil, and in particular a cosmetic oil.

[0113] oil The term "oil" refers to a water-immiscible, non-aqueous compound that is liquid at room temperature (20° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

[0114] A fatty phase suitable for preparing a composition according to the invention, in particular a cosmetic composition, may comprise a hydrocarbon-based oil, a silicone oil, a fluorinated or non-fluorinated oil or mixtures thereof.

[0115] The oil may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0116] These can be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.

[0117] The fatty phase may comprise, in addition to the merocyanine screening agent and optionally a lipophilic additional screening agent, at least one volatile or non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil and / or one volatile and / or non-volatile silicone oil and / or one volatile and / or non-volatile fluorine-based oil.

[0118] For purposes of the present invention, the term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil having primarily hydrogen and carbon atoms.

[0119] The term "silicone oil" means an oil containing at least one silicon atom and in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0120] The term "fluoro-oil" means an oil containing at least one fluorine atom.

[0121] The oil may optionally contain oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid groups.

[0122] Volatile Oil For the purposes of the present invention, the term "volatile oil" means any oil that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oils are oils that have a non-zero vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular between 0.13 Pa and 40,000 Pa (10 -3 The cosmetic composition is a volatile cosmetic compound that is liquid at room temperature and has a vapor pressure in the range of 1.3 Pa to 13000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), particularly in the range of 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg), more particularly in the range of 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).

[0123] The volatile oil may be a hydrocarbon-based oil or a silicone oil.

[0124] Among volatile hydrocarbon oils containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms, branched C8 to C 16 Alkanes, e.g. C8-C 16Isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and oils sold under the trade names, e.g. Isopar or Permethyl, branched C8-C 16 Esters such as isohexyl neopentanoate as well as mixtures thereof may be mentioned.

[0125] Volatile linear alkanes containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular 10 to 15 carbon atoms, more in particular 11 to 13 carbon atoms, such as n-dodecane (C 2 ), sold by Sasol under the references Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97, respectively. 12 ) and n-tetradecane (C 14 ), further mixtures thereof, undecane-tridecane mixtures, and n-undecane (C 11 ) and n-tridecane (C 13 ) as well as mixtures thereof.

[0126] Volatile silicone oils can include volatile linear silicone oils such as hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane, hexadecamethylheptasiloxane, and dodecamethylpentasiloxane.

[0127] Volatile cyclic silicone oils include hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, especially cyclohexasiloxane.

[0128] Volatile fluorinated oils such as nonafluoromethoxybutane, decafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane, dodecafluoropentane and mixtures thereof may also be used.

[0129] Non-volatile oil The term "non-volatile oil" refers to any oil that has a vapor pressure of 10 -3 This refers to oil with a viscosity of less than mmHg (0.13 Pa).

[0130] The non-volatile oil may in particular be chosen from non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, fluorinated oils and / or silicone oils.

[0131] Non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may be mentioned in particular include: - Hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, - linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petrolatum, polydecene, hydrogenated polyisobutenes (such as Parleam) and squalane, and mixtures thereof; - preferably non-volatile alkanes having a viscosity of less than 20 mPa·s measured at 20°C using a Rheomat RM100® viscometer (Lamy Rheology). The term "non-volatile alkanes" refers to hydrocarbon-based cosmetic oils that are liquid at room temperature and in particular have a vapour pressure of less than 0.01 kPa at 20°C according to the definition of volatile organic compounds (VOCs) in Article 2 of the European Council Directive 1999 / 13 / EC of 11 March 1992: "any organic compound which, at a temperature of 293.15 K, has a vapour pressure of more than or equal to 0.01 kPa". In particular, non-volatile alkanes are mixtures of alkanes containing 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 26 carbon atoms, more in particular 15 to 19 carbon atoms, preferably containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms, such as the products sold under the references Emogreen L19 and Emosmart L19 from SEPPIC, - hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as glyceride triesters, which are generally triesters of fatty acids and glycerol (the fatty acids may have a variable chain length of 4 to 24 carbon atoms, these chains may be saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched); these oils are in particular wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, sorghum oil, thyme oil, thyme oil, thyme seed oil, thyme ... soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, sesame oil, marrow oil, rapeseed oil, black currant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, kukui oil, passionflower oil and mountain rose oil; or also caprylic / capric triglycerides, such as those sold by Stearinerie Dubois or under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel; - synthetic ethers containing 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicapryl ether, synthetic esters, for example oils of formula R1COOR2, in which R1 represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, especially branched, containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, with the proviso that R1+R2 is greater than or equal to 10, such as, for example, Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, alkyl benzoates containing 12 to 15 carbon atoms, such as the products sold under the names Finsolv TN or Witconol TN by the company Witco or under the name Tegosoft TN by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate, such as, for example, X-Tend from the company ISP; 226, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate, for example the products sold under the name Dub Dis by the company Stearinerie Dubois, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, for example propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters, for example isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; as well as pentaerythritol esters; citrates, for example C3-C esters with the INCI name Triethyl Citrate. 22 Esters of tricarboxylic acids with C1-C6 alcohols, such as the products sold under the name Citrofol AI Extra by the company Jungbunzlauer; tartrates, for example linear dialkyl tartrates containing 12 or 13 carbon atoms, such as those sold under the name Cosmacol ETI by Enichem Augusta Industriale, and also linear dialkyl tartrates containing 14 or 15 carbon atoms, such as those sold under the name Cosmacol ETL by the same company; and acetates, - isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate, a fatty amide such as, for example, the product sold under the trade name Eldew SL205 by Ajinomoto; Polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, such as dipentaerythrityl tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate, fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature and have a branched and / or unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol and 2-undecylpentadecanol; - C acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and mixtures thereof 12 ~C 22 higher fatty acids, - dicaprylyl carbonate, such as the product sold under the name Cetiol CC by the company Cognis; non-phenyl silicone oils, such as caprylyl methicone, phenyl silicone oils, such as phenyl trimethicone, phenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethylsiloxydiphenyl siloxane, diphenyl dimethicone, diphenyl methyl diphenyl trisiloxane and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicate, dimethicone or phenyl trimethicone with a viscosity of less than or equal to 100 cSt, trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane and mixtures thereof, and also A mixture of these various oils.

[0132] Other fatty substances The fatty phase according to the invention may also contain other fatty substances mixed or dissolved in the oil.

[0133] Other fatty substances which may be present in the oily phase include, for example: - fatty acids containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid; - waxes other than glyceryl trihydroxystearate, such as lanolin, beeswax, carnauba wax or candelilla wax, paraffin wax, lignite wax or microcrystalline wax, ceresin or ozokerite or synthetic waxes such as polyethylene wax or Fischer-Tropsch wax; - silicone resins such as trifluoromethyl (C1-C4) alkyl dimethicone and trifluoropropyl dimethicone; - silicone elastomers, such as the products sold under the name KSG by ShinEtsu, under the name Trefil or BY29 by Dow Corning or under the name Gransil by Grant Industries; - rubbers selected from silicone rubbers (dimethiconol); - Pasty compounds such as polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds, esters of glycerol oligomers, arachidyl propionate, fatty acid triglycerides and their derivatives; and - A mixture of these.

[0134] The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one fatty alcohol wax as fatty substance, said wax being chosen from lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, ceryl alcohol, montanyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

[0135] As fatty substance, the composition according to the invention may in particular comprise at least one butter, in particular a vegetable butter.

[0136] The vegetable butters suitable for use in the present invention are preferably selected from the group comprising avocado butter, cocoa butter, shea butter, kokum butter, mango butter, murumuru butter, coconut butter, apricot kernel butter, sal butter and urucum butter and mixtures thereof, in particular shea butter.

[0137] These fatty substances can be selected in various ways by those skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the desired properties, for example in terms of consistency or texture.

[0138] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile oil, preferably at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, chosen in particular from linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, non-volatile alkanes, hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, synthetic esters, fatty amides, carbonates and mixtures of these various oils.

[0139] In particular, such non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 2.0% to 20.0% by weight, preferably from 2.0% to 15.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0140] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises C3-C alkyl esters having the INCI names squalane, a mixture of alkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms, caprylic / capric triglyceride, alkyl benzoates containing 12 to 15 carbon atoms, diisopropyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, diisopropyl sebacate, triethyl citrate. 22 It contains at least one oil selected from esters of tricarboxylic acids and C1 to C6 alcohols, isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate, dicaprylyl carbonate, and mixtures thereof.

[0141] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 2.0% by weight of silicone oil, in particular less than 1.0% by weight of silicone oil, preferably less than 0.5% by weight of silicone oil relative to the total weight of the composition, and more preferentially no silicone oil.

[0142] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a fatty phase containing at least one fatty substance.

[0143] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, preferably at least one non-volatile ester oil.

[0144] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention also comprises at least one solid fatty substance, in particular a fatty acid containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferentially stearic acid.

[0145] Additional UV protection The composition according to the invention may contain at least one additional UV filter other than the merocyanine of formula (I) above.

[0146] In particular, the composition according to the invention may contain at least one compound for blocking UVA and / or UVB rays other than the merocyanine of formula (I) described above.

[0147] Thus, the composition according to the invention may also contain one or more additional UV filters selected from hydrophilic, lipophilic or insoluble organic UV filters and / or one or more mineral pigments. It preferentially consists of at least one hydrophilic, lipophilic or insoluble organic UV filter.

[0148] The term "hydrophilic UV filter" means any cosmetic or dermatological organic or inorganic compound that can be completely dissolved in molecular form in a liquid aqueous phase or that can be dissolved in colloidal form (e.g., in micellar form) in a liquid aqueous phase and that filters UV radiation.

[0149] The term "lipophilic screening agent" means any cosmetic or dermatological organic or inorganic compound for screening UV radiation, which can be completely dissolved in molecular state in a liquid fatty phase or can be dissolved in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid fatty phase.

[0150] The term "insoluble UV filters" refers to any cosmetic or dermatological organic or inorganic compound for filtering UV radiation, which has a solubility of less than 0.5% by weight in water and less than 0.5% by weight in most organic solvents, such as liquid paraffin, fatty alcohol benzoates and fatty acid triglycerides, such as Miglyol 812® sold by Dynamit Nobel. The solubility is measured at 70°C and is defined as the amount of product dissolved after suspending an excess of solid in the solvent and returning to room temperature to equilibrate. It can be easily evaluated in the laboratory.

[0151] Additional organic UV filters are in particular cinnamon compounds; anthranilate compounds; salicylic acid compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds; benzylidene camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; β,β-diphenylacrylate compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds, in particular those cited in US Pat. No. 5,624,663; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazoline compounds; bis-benzazolyl compounds, such as those described in EP Pat. No. 669,323 and US Pat. No. 2,463,264; p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) compounds; methylene bis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds, such as those described in US Pat. No. 5,237,071, US Pat. No. 5,166,355, GB Pat. No. 2,303,549, DE Pat. No. 19,726,184 and EP Pat. No. 2,463,264. 893119; benzoxazole compounds, such as those described in EP 0832642, EP 1027883, EP 1300137 and DE 10162844; shielding polymers and shielding silicones, such as those described in particular in WO 93 / 04665; α-alkylstyrene dimers, such as those described in DE 19855649; 4,4-diarylbutadiene compounds, such as those described in EP 0967200, DE 19746654, DE 19755649, EP-A-1008586, EP 1133980 and EP 133981; and mixtures thereof.

[0152] Examples of organic photoprotectors include those given their INCI names: Cinnamon Compounds: - ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, sold in particular under the name Parsol MCX® by DSM Nutritional Products; - Isopropyl Methoxycinnamate, isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan E 1000® by Symrise; - DEA Methoxycinnamate, - methyl diisopropylcinnamate, - Glyceryl dimethoxycinnamate ethylhexanoate. Dibenzoylmethane compounds: - butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, sold in particular under the name Parsol 1789® by DSM Nutritional Products; - Isopropyldibenzoylmethane. para-Aminobenzoic acid compounds: - PABA, - Ethyl PABA, - Ethyl Dihydroxypropyl PABA, - ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA, sold in particular under the name Escalol 507® by ISP; - Glyceryl PABA, - PEG-25 PABA sold by BASF under the name Uvinul P25®. Salicylic Acid Compounds: - Homosalate, sold under the name HMS® by Rona / EM Industries; ethylhexyl salicylate, sold under the name Neo Heliopan OS® by Symrise; dipropylene glycol salicylate sold under the name Dipsal® by Scher; - TEA salicylate sold under the name Neo Heliopan TS® by Symrise. β,β-Diphenyl acrylate compounds: - octocrylene, sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul N539® by BASF; - Etocrilen, sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul N35® by BASF. Benzophenone compounds: Benzophenone-1, sold under the trade name Uvinul 400® by BASF; Benzophenone-2, sold under the trade name Uvinul D 50® by BASF, Benzophenone-3 or oxybenzone, sold under the trade name Uvinul M 40® by BASF, Benzophenone-4, sold under the trade name Uvinul MS 40® by BASF, - Benzophenone-5, - benzophenone-6, sold under the trade name Helisorb 11® by Norquay; - benzophenone-8, sold under the trade name Spectra-Sorb UV-24® by American Cyanamid; Benzophenone-9, sold under the trade name Uvinul DS 49® by BASF; - Benzophenone-12, n-Hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate, sold by BASF under the name Uvinul A Plus® or, in a mixture with octyl methoxycinnamate, under the name Uvinul A Plus B®; - 1,1'-(1,4-piperazinediyl)bis[1-[2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]phenyl]methanone] (CAS 919803-06-8), described in WO 2007 / 071584; this compound is advantageously used in finely divided form (average diameter 0.02 to 2 μm), in particular in the form of an aqueous dispersion, which can be obtained, for example, according to the micronization methods described in GB-A-2303549 and EP-A-893119. Benzylidene camphor compounds: 3-benzylidene camphor, manufactured by Chimex under the name Mexoryl SD®; - 4-methylbenzylidene camphor sold under the name Eusolex 6300® by Merck; benzylidene camphorsulfonic acid, manufactured under the name Mexoryl SL® by Chimex; camphorbenzalkonium methosulfate, manufactured under the name Mexoryl SO® by Chimex; - terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, manufactured by Chimex under the name Mexoryl SX®; - Polyacrylamidomethylbenzylidene camphor manufactured by Chimex under the name Mexoryl SW®. Phenylbenzimidazole compounds: - Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, sold in particular under the trade name Eusolex 232® by Merck. Bisbenzazolyl compounds: - disodium phenyldibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate sold under the name Neo Heliopan AP® by Haarmann and Reimer. Phenylbenzotriazole compounds: - Drometrizole trisiloxane, sold under the name Silatrizole® by Rhodia Chimie. Methylene bis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds: in particular in solid form (for example the product sold under the name Mixxim BB / 100® by Fairmount Chemical) or in the form of an aqueous dispersion of fine particles with an average particle size of 0.01 to 5 μm, more preferentially 0.01 to 2 μm and more particularly 0.020 to 2 μm, n H 2n+1 O(CH 10 O5) xThe structure of H, where n is an integer from 8 to 16 and x is (CH 10 05) units, which is in the range of 1.4 to 1.6) (described in GB-A-2303549 and sold in particular under the trade name Tinosorb M® by BASF) or at least one polyglyceryl mono (C8-C05) surfactant having a degree of glycerol polymerization of at least 5. 20 ) methylenebis-benzotriazolyltetramethylbutylphenol in the presence of alkyl esters in the form of an aqueous dispersion of fine particles having an average particle size of 0.02 to 2 μm, more preferentially 0.01 to 1.5 μm and in particular 0.02 to 1 μm, for example in the form of the aqueous dispersions described in WO 2009 / 063392. Triazine compounds: - 3,3'-(1,4-phenylene)bis(5,6-diphenyl-1,2,4-triazine) which has the INCI name Phenylenebis-diphenyltriazine and the following chemical formula: [Chemical formula 9] [ka] - bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine sold under the name Tinosorb S® by BASF; - ethylhexyl triazone, sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul T 150® by BASF; - diethylhexylbutamide triazone sold under the trade name Uvasorb HEB® by Sigma 3V; - 2,4,6-tris(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, - 2,4,6-tris(diisobutyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, - 2,4-bis(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzoate)-6-(aminopropyltrisiloxane)-s-triazine, - 2,4-bis(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzoate)-s-triazine, - symmetric triazine shielding agents substituted by naphthalenyl or polyphenyl groups, as described in U.S. Pat. No. 6,225,467, WO 2004 / 085412 (see compounds 6 and 9) or in the document "Symmetrical Triazine Derivatives", IP.COM IPCOM000031257 Journal, INC, West Henrietta, NY, US (September 20, 2004), in particular 2,4,6-tris(diphenyl)triazine and 2,4,6-tris(terphenyl)triazine (these are described in WO 06 / 035000, WO 06 / 034982, WO 06 / 034991, These compounds are also described in WO 06 / 035007, WO 2006 / 034992 and WO 2006 / 034985, and are advantageously used in finely divided form (average particle size 0.02 to 3 μm), in particular in the form of an aqueous dispersion, which can be obtained, for example, according to the micronization methods described in GB-A-2303549 and EP-A-893119, - silicone triazines substituted by two aminobenzoate groups, in particular 2,4-bis(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-[(3-{1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1-[(trimethylsilyl)oxy]disiloxanyl}propyl)amino]-s-triazine, as described in EP 0 841 341. Anthranilic Acid Compounds: - Menthyl anthranilate, sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan MA® by Symrise. Imidazoline compounds: - Ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline propionate. Benzalmalonate compounds: - polyorganosiloxanes containing benzalmalonate functional groups, such as, for example, Polysilicone-15 sold under the name Parsol SLX® by Hoffmann-LaRoche. 4,4-Diarylbutadiene Compounds: - 1,1-Dicarboxy(2,2'-dimethylpropyl)- 4,4-diphenylbutadiene. Benzoxazole compounds: 2,4-bis[5-1(dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)imino-1,3,5-triazine sold under the name Uvasorb K2A® by Sigma 3V.

[0153] Preferred organic screening agents are selected from: - Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, - Ethylhexyl Salicylate, - Homosalate, - butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, - Octocrylene, - phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, - Benzophenone-3, - Benzophenone-4, - Benzophenone-5, - n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoate, - 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, - terephthalidenedicamphorsulfonic acid, - disodium phenyldibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, - methylenebis(benzotriazolyl)tetramethylbutylphenol, - bis(ethylhexyloxyphenol) methoxyphenyl triazine, - ethylhexyl triazone, - diethylhexylbutamidotriazone, - 2,4,6-tris(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, - 2,4,6-tris(diisobutyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, - 2,4-bis(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzoate)-6-(aminopropyltrisiloxane)-s-triazine, - 2,4-bis(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzoate)-s-triazine, - 2,4-bis(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-[(3-{1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1-[(trimethylsilyloxy]disiloxanyl}propyl)amino]-s-triazine, - 2,4,6-tris(diphenyl)triazine, - 2,4,6-tris(terphenyl)triazine, - Drometrizole Trisiloxane, - Polysilicone-15, - 1,1-dicarboxy(2,2'-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene, 2,4-bis[5-1(dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)imino-1,3,5-triazine, and - A mixture of these.

[0154] Particularly preferred organic screening agents are selected from: - Ethylhexyl Salicylate, - Homosalate, - butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, - Octocrylene, - n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoate, - terephthalidenedicamphorsulfonic acid, - bis(ethylhexyloxyphenol) methoxyphenyl triazine, - ethylhexyl triazone, - diethylhexylbutamidotriazone, - 2,4-bis(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-[(3-{1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1-[(trimethylsilyloxy]disiloxanyl}propyl)amino]-s-triazine, - Drometrizole Trisiloxane, and - A mixture of these.

[0155] The inorganic UV filters used according to the invention are metal oxide pigments. More preferentially, the inorganic UV filters of the invention are metal oxide particles having an average primary particle size of less than or equal to 0.5 μm, more preferentially between 0.005 and 0.5 μm, even more preferentially between 0.01 and 0.2 μm, even better still between 0.01 and 0.1 μm, more particularly between 0.015 and 0.05 μm.

[0156] These may be chosen in particular from titanium oxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, zirconium oxide and cerium oxide or mixtures thereof.

[0157] Such coated or uncoated metal oxide pigments are described in particular in EP-A-0518773. Commercially available pigments include products sold by Sachtleben Pigments, Tayca, Merck and Degussa.

[0158] The metal oxide pigments may be coated or uncoated.

[0159] Coated pigments are pigments that have been subjected to one or more surface treatments for chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and / or mechanical properties with compounds such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithin, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (of titanium or aluminum), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxide, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.

[0160] The coated pigment is more particularly titanium dioxide coated with: Silica, such as the product Sunveil® from Ikeda, - silica and iron oxides, such as the product Sunveil F® from Ikeda; - silicas and aluminas, such as the products Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 SA® and Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 SA® from the company Tayca and the product Tioveil from the company Tioxide; aluminas, such as the products Tipaque TTO-55(B)® and Tipaque TTO-55(A)® from Ishihara and UVT 14 / 4 from Sachtleben Pigments; alumina and aluminium stearates, such as the products Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 T®, MT 100 TX®, MT 100 Z® and MT-01® from the company Tayca, the products Solaveil CT-10 W® and Solaveil CT 100® from the company Uniqema and the product Eusolex T-AVO® from the company Merck; - silica, alumina and alginic acid, such as the product MT-100 AQ® from Tayca; alumina and aluminium laurate, such as the product Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 S® from the company Tayca; iron oxides and iron stearates, such as the product Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 F® from the company Tayca, zinc oxide and zinc stearate, such as the product BR 351® from the company Tayca; - silica and alumina (treated with silicone), such as the products Microtitanium Dioxide MT 600 SAS®, Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 SAS® or Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 SAS® from the company Tayca; - silica, alumina and aluminium stearate (treated with silicone), such as the product STT-30-DS® from Titan Kogyo; - silica (treated with silicone), for example the product UV-Titan X 195® from the company Sachtleben Pigments, alumina (treated with silicone), such as the product Tipaque TTO-55(S)® from the company Ishihara or the product UV Titan M 262® from the company Sachtleben Pigments; - triethanolamine, for example the product STT-65-S from Titan Kogyo; stearic acid, such as the product Tipaque TTO-55(C) (registered trademark) from Ishihara; sodium hexametaphosphate, such as the product Microtitanium Dioxide MT 150 W® from the company Tayca; TiO2 treated with octyltrimethylsilane, sold under the trade name T 805® by the company Degussa Silices; - TiO2 treated with polydimethylsiloxane, sold by Cardre under the trade name 70250 Cardre UF TiO2SI3®; - Polydimethylhydrosiloxane treated anatase / rutile TiO2 sold by Color Techniques under the trade name Microtitanium Dioxide USP Grade Hydrophobic®. - TiO2 coated with triethylhexanoin, aluminium stearate and alumina, sold under the trade name Solaveil CT-200-LQ-(WD) by Croda; - aluminium stearate, alumina and silicone coated TiO2 sold by Croda under the trade name Solaveil CT-12W-LQ-(WD); - TiO2 coated with lauroyl lysine, sold by Daito Kasei Kogyo under the name LL 5 Titanium Dioxyde CR 50; - C9-C, sold by Daito Kasei Kogyo under the name PFX-5 TiO2CR-50 15 TiO2 coated with fluoroalcohol phosphate and aluminum hydroxide.

[0161] Mention may also be made of TiO2 pigments doped with at least one transition metal, such as iron, zinc or manganese, more particularly manganese. Preferably, said doped pigments are in the form of an oil dispersion. The oil present in the oil dispersion is preferably selected from triglycerides, such as capric / caprylic triglycerides. The oil dispersion of titanium dioxide particles may also contain one or more dispersants, such as sorbitan esters, such as sorbitan isostearate, or fatty acid esters of polyoxyalkylenated glycerol, such as tri-PPG-3 myristyl citrate and polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate. Preferably, the oil dispersion of titanium dioxide particles contains at least one dispersant selected from fatty acid esters of polyoxyalkylenated glycerol. Mention may more particularly be made of oil dispersions in which manganese-doped TiO2 particles, having the INCI name titanium dioxide (and) tri-PPG-3 myristyl citrate (and) polyglyceryl-3 ricinoleate (and) sorbitan isostearate, are dispersed in caprylic / capric triglyceride in the presence of tri-TRI-PPG-3 myristyl citrate and polyglyceryl-3 polycinoleate and sorbitan isostearate (for example the product sold under the name Optisol TD50® by the company Croda).

[0162] Uncoated titanium oxide pigments are sold, for example, under the trade names Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 B or Microtitanium Dioxide MT 600 B (registered trademark) by Tayca, under the name P 25 by Degussa, under the name Transparent titanium oxide PW (registered trademark) by Wackher, under the name UFTR (registered trademark) by Miyoshi Kasei, under the name ITS (registered trademark) by Tomen and under the name Tioveil AQ by Tioxide.

[0163] Uncoated zinc oxide pigments are, for example: - Sold by Sunsmart under the name Z-Cote; - sold by Elementis under the name Nanox (registered trademark); - Sold by Nanophase Technologies under the name Nanogard WCD 2025 (registered trademark).

[0164] Coated zinc oxide pigments are, for example: - sold under the name Zinc Oxide CS-5® by the company Toshibi (ZnO coated with polymethylhydrogenosiloxane); - Nanogard Zinc Oxide FN® (registered trademark) sold by Nanophase Technologies (Finsolv TN® (registered trademark) 12 ~C 15 as a 40% dispersion in alkyl benzoates); - sold by Daito under the names Daitopersion Zn-30® and Daitopersion Zn-50® (dispersions in oxyethylenated polydimethylsiloxane / silopolymethylsiloxane containing 30% or 50% zinc oxide coated with silica and polymethylhydrogenosiloxane); - sold by Daikin under the name NFD Ultrafine ZnO® (dispersion of ZnO in cyclopentasiloxane coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate and perfluoroalkylethyl copolymers); - sold by the company Shin-Etsu under the name SPD-Z1® (ZnO dispersed in cyclodimethylsiloxane and coated with a silicone-grafted acrylic polymer); - sold under the name Escalol Z100® by the company ISP (alumina-treated ZnO dispersed in an ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate / PVP-hexadecene copolymer / methicone mixture); - sold by Fuji Pigment under the name Fuji ZnO-SMS-10® (ZnO coated with silica and polymethylsilsesquioxane); - Nanox Gel TN (registered trademark) sold by Elementis (a C -containing hydroxystearic acid polycondensate) 12 ~C 15 ZnO dispersed at 55% in alkyl benzoate).

[0165] The uncoated cerium oxide pigments may be, for example, those sold under the name Colloidal Cerium Oxide® by the company Rhone-Poulenc.

[0166] Uncoated iron oxide pigments are sold, for example, by the company Arnaud under the names Nanogard WCD 2002® (FE 45B®), Nanogard Iron FE 45 BL AQ, Nanogard FE 45R AQ® and Nanogard WCD 2006® (FE 45R®) or by the company Mitsubishi under the name TY-220®.

[0167] Coated iron oxide pigments are sold, for example, under the names Nanogard WCD 2008 (FE 45B FN®), Nanogard WCD 2009® (FE 45B 556®), Nanogard FE 45 BL 345® and Nanogard FE 45 BL® by the company Arnaud or under the name Transparent Iron Oxide® by the company BASF.

[0168] Mention may also be made of mixtures of metal oxides, in particular titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide, such as an equal weight mixture of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide coated with silica, such as the product sold under the name Sunveil A® by the company Ikeda, and also mixtures of titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide coated with alumina, silica and silicone, such as the product M 261® sold by Sachtleben Pigments, or coated with alumina, silica and glycerol, such as the product M 211® sold by Sachtleben Pigments.

[0169] According to the invention, coated or uncoated titanium oxide pigments are particularly preferred.

[0170] According to a particular embodiment, the composition comprises one or more lipophilic UV filters.

[0171] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises one or more UV filters chosen from lipophilic UVA filters and / or lipophilic UVB filters.

[0172] More preferentially, the composition comprises one or more UV filters chosen from dibenzoylmethane derivatives, salicylic acid derivatives, β,β'-diphenylacrylate derivatives, triazine derivatives and benzylidene camphor derivatives.

[0173] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition comprises one or more UV filters selected from terephthalylidene dicamphorsulfonic acid, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, octocrylene, ethylhexyl triazone and mixtures thereof.

[0174] According to one embodiment, the amount of organic UV filters present in the composition according to the invention may range from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, for example from 1% to 10% by weight or for example from 5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0175] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one inorganic UV filter.

[0176] According to a particular embodiment, the amount of inorganic UV filters present in the composition according to the invention may range from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, that is, from 1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0177] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention also comprises one or more organic UV filters and one or more inorganic UV filters.

[0178] According to one particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention also comprises a combination of UV filters as described in French Patent No. 2 977 490, in WO 2013 / 004777 or in US Patent Publication No. 2014 / 0134120.

[0179] Surfactants According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one surfactant.

[0180] The surfactant can be selected from nonionic, anionic, cationic and amphoteric surfactants and mixtures thereof.For definition of emulsifying and functional properties of surfactants, reference can be made to Kirk-Othmer Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, volume 22, pages 333-432, 3rd Edition, 1979, Wiley, and in particular for anionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants, pages 347-377 of this reference.

[0181] Nonionic Surfactants Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-ionic surfactant.

[0182] The nonionic surfactants may be chosen in particular from alkyl and polyalkyl esters of poly(ethylene oxide), oxyalkylenated alcohols, alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of poly(ethylene oxide), optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sorbitan, optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of sorbitan, alkyl and polyalkyl glycosides or alkyl and polyalkyl polyglycosides, in particular alkyl and polyalkyl glucosides or alkyl and polyalkyl polyglucosides, alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sucrose, glyceryl esters, optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters of glycerol, optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of glycerol, gemini surfactants, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

[0183] As glyceryl esters, in particular, C 16 ~C 22 Mention may be made of fatty acid esters, in particular the glyceryl esters of fatty acids containing 18 carbon atoms and the polyglyceryl esters of fatty acids containing 8 to 12 carbon atoms.

[0184] Particularly noteworthy are C 18 Glyceryl esters of fatty acids include glyceryl stearate (glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl distearate and / or glyceryl tristearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate) or glyceryl ricinoleate or mixtures thereof.

[0185] As fatty acid esters of glycerol, mention may be made of mixtures based on glyceryl stearate, such as mixtures of glyceryl stearate and polyethylene glycol 100 OE monostearate, including in particular the 50 / 50 mixture sold under the name Arlacel 165® by Croda, or the product containing glyceryl stearate (mono-distearate) and potassium stearate sold under the name Tegin® by Goldschmidt (CTFA name: Glyceryl Stearate SE).

[0186] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one surfactant, in particular a non-ionic surfactant, preferably chosen from glyceryl esters.

[0187] Anionic Surfactants Anionic surfactants include alkyl ether sulfates, carboxylates, amino acid derivatives, sulfonates, isethionates, taurates, sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, phosphates and alkyl phosphates, polypeptides, C 10 ~C 30 , especially C 16 ~C 25 They may be selected from metal salts of fatty acids, particularly metal stearates and behenates, alkali metal cetyl phosphates, and mixtures thereof.

[0188] As an alkali metal salt of cetyl phosphate, mention may in particular be made of potassium cetyl phosphate. In particular, the monopotassium salt of monocetyl phosphate (INCI name: potassium cetyl phosphate) sold under the name Amphisol K by the company DSM Nutritional Products may be used.

[0189] Cationic Surfactants Cationic surfactants include alkyl imidazolidinium, such as isostearyl ethylimidonium ethosulfate, (C 12~30 -alkyl)tri(C 1~4-alkyl)ammonium halides, for example N,N,N-trimethyl-1-docosaminium chloride (or behentrimonium chloride).

[0190] Amphoteric surfactants The compositions according to the invention may also contain one or more amphoteric surfactants, for example N-acylamino acids such as N-alkylamino acetates and disodium cocoamphodiacetate, and amine oxides such as stearamine oxide, or silicone surfactants, for example dimethicone copolyol phosphate, such as the product sold under the name Pecosil PS 100® by Phoenix Chemical.

[0191] Silicone Surfactants The composition may also contain at least one silicone surfactant. By way of example, as non-ionic surfactants with an HLB value of 8 or more at 25° C., used alone or in a mixture, dimethicone copolyol or dimethicone copolyol benzoate can be mentioned, as non-ionic surfactants with an HLB value of less than 8 at 25° C., used alone or in a mixture, cyclomethicone / dimethicone copolyol mixture can be mentioned.

[0192] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 2% by weight of a silicone surfactant, in particular less than 1% by weight of a silicone surfactant, preferably less than 0.5% by weight of a silicone surfactant and more preferentially no silicone surfactant.

[0193] The surfactant may be present in the composition according to the invention in a proportion ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0194] Gelling Agents / Thickeners Depending on the viscosity of the composition that one wishes to obtain, one or more thickening and / or gelling agents, in particular those that are hydrophilic, ie water-soluble or water-dispersible, may be incorporated into the composition.

[0195] Examples of hydrophilic gelling agents include modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, such as the products sold under the names Carbopol (CTFA name: Carbomer) and Pemulen (CTFA name: (Acrylates / Alkyl Acrylate (C10-30)) Crosspolymer) by Goodrich; polyacrylamido; optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers, such as poly(2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid) (CTFA name: ammonium polyacryldimethyltaurate) sold under the name Hostacerin AMPS by Hoechst; crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and AMPS in the form of W / O emulsions, such as Sepigel 305 (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide / (C13-14) Isoparaffin / Laureth-7) and Simulgel 305 (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide / (C13-14) Isoparaffin / Laureth-7) by SEPPIC. 600 (CTFA name: (Acrylamide / Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate) Copolymer / Isohexadecane / Polysorbate 80); biopolymers which are polysaccharides, such as xanthan gum, guar gum, alginates and modified celluloses, and mixtures thereof. The amount of gelling agent depends on the desired purpose.

[0196] According to one embodiment, the amount of filler ranges, for example, from 0.01% to 10% by weight, such as from 0.05% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0197] Filler According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more fillers, in particular those selected from those conventionally used in care and / or makeup compositions.

[0198] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "filler" is understood to mean any form of solid particles, colorless or white, inorganic or organic, natural or synthetic, that are insoluble in the medium of the composition and in a dispersed form therein.

[0199] Needless to say, these fillers are used in suitable amounts and under suitable conditions so as not to be detrimental to the properties of the composition.

[0200] These fillers make it possible to impart flexibility, a mattifying effect and uniformity to the compositions containing them, and in addition, they advantageously make it possible to resist the various attacking elements, such as sebum or sweat.

[0201] Examples of such fillers include talc, mica, silica, kaolin, poly-β-alanine powder and polyethylene powder, powder of tetrafluoroethylene polymer (Teflon®), lauroyl lysine, starch, boron nitride, hollow polymer microspheres (such as those made of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile, e.g. Expancel® (Nobel Industrie)), acrylic acid copolymer microspheres, silicone resin microbeads (e.g. Tospearl® from Toshiba), polyorganosiloxane elastomer particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite, barium sulfate, aluminum oxide, polyurethane powder, composite fillers, hollow silica microspheres and glass or ceramic microcapsules. Particles in the form of hollow sphere segments, as described in JP 2003-128788 A and JP 2000-191789 A, may also be used.

[0202] dye The composition according to the invention also contains at least one particulate or non-particulate, water-soluble or water-insoluble dye, preferably in a proportion of at least 0.0001% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0203] For obvious reasons, this amount is subject to wide variation depending on the intensity of the color effect desired and the color strength imparted by the dye under consideration, adjustment of which is clearly within the capabilities of one skilled in the art.

[0204] As mentioned above, dyes suitable for use in the present invention can be water soluble, but can also be oil soluble.

[0205] water soluble dye For purposes of this invention, the term "water-soluble dye" means any natural or synthetic, generally organic compound that is soluble in an aqueous phase or in a water-miscible solvent and capable of imparting color.

[0206] Suitable water-soluble dyes for use in the present invention include in particular synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes such as FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1, betanin (beet root), carmine, copper chlorophyllin, methylene blue, anthocyanins (enocyanin, black carrot, hibiscus and elder), caramel and riboflavin.

[0207] Water-soluble dyes are, for example, beetroot juice and caramel.

[0208] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one water-soluble dye.

[0209] The water-soluble dyes may be present in a proportion of 0.0001% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition containing them.

[0210] fat soluble dye For the purposes of the present invention, the term "liposoluble dye" means any natural or synthetic, generally organic, compound that is soluble in a solvent that is miscible with an oily phase or with fatty substances and that is capable of imparting color.

[0211] Suitable liposoluble dyes for use in the present invention include, in particular, synthetic or natural liposoluble dyes such as DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan Red, carotenes (β-carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan Brown, Quinoline Yellow, Annatto and Curcumin.

[0212] The coloured particulate materials may be present in a proportion of from 0.0001% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition containing them.

[0213] These may in particular be pigments with metallic hues, mother of pearl and / or particles.

[0214] Pigments The term "pigments" should be understood to mean white or colored inorganic or organic particles that are insoluble in aqueous solutions and are intended to color and / or opacify the compositions containing them.

[0215] The pigments can be white or colored, inorganic and / or organic.

[0216] Inorganic pigments include titanium oxide, titanium dioxide, zirconium oxide, zirconium dioxide, cerium oxide or dioxide, as well as zinc oxide, iron oxide or chromium oxide, ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and chromium hydrate, and mixtures thereof.

[0217] It may also be a pigment having a structure which may be, for example, of the sericite / brown iron oxide / titanium dioxide / silica type. Such pigments are, for example, sold under the reference Coverleaf NS or JS by the company Chemicals and Catalysts and have a contrast ratio of the order of 30.

[0218] They can also be pigments with a structure that can be, for example, of the silica microsphere type containing iron oxide.An example of a pigment with this structure is the product sold by the company Miyoshi under the reference PC Ball PC-LL-100P, which pigment is composed of silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide.

[0219] Advantageously, the pigments may be iron oxide and / or titanium dioxide.

[0220] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention contains less than 1% of pigments.

[0221] mother of pearl The term "nacre" should be understood to mean any form of coloured particle, which may be lustrous or not, produced especially in the exoskeleton of certain mollusks or synthesised, and which has a colour effect by light interference.

[0222] The nacres may be chosen from pearlescent pigments such as titanic mica coated with iron oxide, titanic mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanic mica coated with chromium oxide, titanic mica coated with organic dyes, and also pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles on the surface of which at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic dyes are superimposed.

[0223] Examples of nacre that may further be mentioned include natural mica covered with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigments or bismuth oxychloride.

[0224] Among the mother of pearls available on the market, there may be mentioned Timica, Flamenco and Duochrome mother of pearl (mica based) sold by Engelhard, Timiron mother of pearl sold by Merck, Prestige mica based mother of pearl sold by Eckart and Sunshine synthetic mica based mother of pearl sold by Sun Chemical.

[0225] The mother of pearl may have a color or shade of yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or copper, more particularly.

[0226] Advantageously, the nacre according to the invention is mica coated with titanium dioxide or iron oxide and also with bismuth oxychloride.

[0227] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention contains less than 1% nacre.

[0228] Particles with metallic hues For the purposes of the present invention, the term "particles with a metallic hue" means any compound which, by its nature, size, structure and surface finish, causes incident light to be reflected in a particularly non-glare manner.

[0229] Exemplary particles having a metallic hue that may be used in the present invention are in particular selected from particles of at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative, particles comprising a single-material or multi-material organic or inorganic substrate at least partially coated with at least one layer having a metallic hue comprising at least one metal and / or at least one metal oxide, and mixtures of said particles.

[0230] Among the metals that may be present in the particles, mention may be made, for example, of Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te and Se, as well as mixtures or alloys thereof. Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo, Cr and mixtures or alloys thereof (e.g. bronze and brass) are preferred metals.

[0231] The term "metal derivatives" refers to compounds derived from metals, in particular the oxides, fluorides, chlorides and sulfides.

[0232] Examples of these particles include aluminum particles, such as those sold under the name Starbrite 1200 EAC® by Siberline and under the name Metalure® by Eckart, as well as glass particles coated with a metal layer, in particular those described in JP-A-09-188830, JP-A-10-158450, JP-A-10-158541, JP-A-07-258460 and JP-A-05-017710.

[0233] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention contains less than 1% of particles with a metallic hue.

[0234] Hydrophobic treatment of dyes The above-mentioned powdered dyes can be totally or partially surface-treated with hydrophobic agents so that they are more compatible with the oily phase of the composition of the present invention, in particular so that they have good wetting properties with oil. These treated pigments are therefore well dispersed in the oily phase. Hydrophobically treated pigments are described in particular in EP-A-1086683.

[0235] The hydrophobizing agent may be selected from silicones such as methicone, dimethicone and perfluoroalkylsilane; fatty acids such as stearic acid; metal soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate; perfluoroalkylphosphates; polyhexafluoropropylene oxide; perfluoropolyethers; amino acids; N-acylamino acids or salts thereof; lecithin, isopropyl triisostearyl titanate, isostearyl sebacate and mixtures thereof.

[0236] The term "alkyl" in the above compounds refers specifically to alkyl groups containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.

[0237] additive The compositions according to the invention may also comprise conventional cosmetic adjuvants, especially chosen from active agents, emollients, wetting agents, opacifiers, emollients, silicones, antifoaming agents, fragrances, polar additives, preservatives, in particular phenoxyethanol, polymers, such as film-forming polymers, propellants, dispersants, antifouling agents, chelating agents, basifying or acidifying agents or any other ingredient commonly used in the cosmetics and / or dermatological fields.

[0238] Examples of acidifying agents that may be mentioned are inorganic or organic acids, such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids, such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid or lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.

[0239] Examples of basifying agents include aqueous ammonia, alkali metal carbonates, alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamine and their derivatives, sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide.

[0240] Preferably, the cosmetic composition comprises one or more basifying agents selected from alkanolamines, in particular triethanolamine, and sodium hydroxide.

[0241] In the case of direct emulsions, the pH of the compositions according to the invention is generally approximately between 3 and 12, preferably approximately between 5 and 11 and more particularly between 5.5 and 8.

[0242] Active agents for the care of keratinous materials such as the skin, lips, scalp, hair, eyelashes or nails may, for example, be mentioned: vitamins and their derivatives or precursors (alone or in mixtures); antioxidants; free radical scavengers; anti-pollution agents; self-tanning agents; anti-glycation agents; soothing agents, deodorants; essential oils; NO synthase inhibitors; agents for stimulating the synthesis and / or preventing the degradation of macromolecules in the dermis or epidermis; agents for stimulating fibroblast proliferation; agents for stimulating keratinocyte proliferation; muscle relaxants; cooling agents; tensioning agents; mattifying agents; bleaching agents; keratolytic agents; desquamating agents; moisturizing agents; anti-inflammatory agents; antimicrobial agents, weight loss agents; agents acting on the energy metabolism of cells; insect repellents; substance P antagonists or CRGP antagonists; hair loss prevention agents; anti-wrinkle agents; anti-aging agents.

[0243] Those skilled in the art will select the active agent according to what is desired for the skin, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows and nails.

[0244] Needless to say, the skilled artisan will take care in selecting this or these optional additional compounds and / or their amounts so that the advantageous properties of the compositions according to the invention are not adversely affected or are not substantially affected by the envisaged addition.

[0245] composition The compositions according to the invention may be aqueous or anhydrous.

[0246] When the compositions are aqueous, they contain at least one aqueous phase.

[0247] They may then be in purely aqueous form, i.e. the amount of fatty phase they contain is less than 10% by weight, preferably less than 5% by weight, and even more preferentially less than 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Advantageously, the composition according to the invention is essentially aqueous, i.e. it does not contain a fatty phase.

[0248] The compositions according to the invention may in particular also be in the form of a single or multiple emulsion (O / W, W / O, O / W / O or W / O / W), for example a cream, milk or gel-cream.

[0249] The composition according to the invention may be in the form of an emulsion, such as an oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion, in the form of a gel, such as an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsified gel, in the form of an aqueous composition or in the form of a gel / gel-type composition.

[0250] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention is an emulsion.

[0251] According to one variant, the composition according to the invention is a single-phase emulsion.

[0252] According to one variant, the composition according to the invention is a multiple emulsion. It may be a triple emulsion.

[0253] According to one variant, the composition according to the invention is a direct single-phase emulsion. Thus, according to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention is an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion.

[0254] According to one variant, the composition according to the invention is an inverse single-phase emulsion. Thus, according to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention is a water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion.

[0255] According to one variant, the composition according to the invention is an aqueous formulation of the aqueous gel or solution type.

[0256] Preferably the composition is an emulsion, in particular a water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion.

[0257] In the case of compositions in the form of oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions, emulsification methods that can be used are those of the paddle or impeller, rotor-stator and HPH type.

[0258] To obtain stable emulsions with low polymer content (oil / polymer ratio >25), it is possible to prepare a dispersion in the concentrated phase and then dilute the dispersion with the remaining amount of the aqueous phase.

[0259] By HPH (50-800 bar) it is also possible to obtain stable dispersions with droplet sizes of around 100 nm.

[0260] The composition according to the invention may be more or less liquid and may have the appearance of a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste or a foam. It may optionally be applied to the skin in aerosol form. It may also be in solid form, for example in the form of a stick.

[0261] The composition according to the invention may be in the form of a cosmetic composition for caring for and / or making up keratinous materials, preferably a cosmetic composition for caring for and / or making up keratinous materials, in particular of the body or face, preferably of the face.

[0262] The compositions according to the invention are applied in a number of treatments, in particular cosmetic treatments, for the skin, lips and hair (including the scalp), in particular for protecting and / or caring for the skin, lips and / or hair and / or for making up the skin and / or lips.

[0263] Another subject of the invention consists of the use of the composition according to the invention as defined above for producing products for the cosmetic treatment of the skin, lips, nails, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows and / or scalp, in particular care products, sun protection products and make-up products.

[0264] The composition according to the invention may be in the form of a product for caring for the skin or semi-mucous membranes, for example in the form of a protective or cosmetic care composition for the face, lips, hands, feet, anatomical folds or body (for example a day cream, a night cream, a day serum, a night serum, a make-up removal cream, a make-up base, an anti-sun composition, a protective or caring body milk, an after-sun milk, a skin care or scalp care lotion, a gel or foam, a serum, a mask or an after-shave composition).

[0265] The cosmetic compositions according to the invention can be used as care products and / or sun protection products for the face and / or body, having a liquid to semi-liquid consistency, for example milks, various rich creams, gels, cream-gels, etc. They can optionally be packaged in aerosol form and can be in the form of a mousse or spray.

[0266] The composition according to the invention in the form of a vaporizable fluid lotion according to the invention is applied to the skin or hair in the form of fine particles by a pressurized device.The devices according to the invention are well known to those skilled in the art and include non-aerosol pumps or "atomizers", aerosol containers containing a propellant and aerosol pumps that utilize compressed air as a propellant.These devices are described in US Pat. No. 4,077,441 and US Pat. No. 4,850,517.

[0267] The compositions packaged in aerosol form according to the invention generally contain conventional propellants, such as hydrofluoro compounds, dichlorodifluoromethane, difluoroethane, dimethyl ether, isobutane, n-butane, propane or trichlorofluoromethane, which are preferably present in an amount ranging from 15% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0268] The composition may be applied to the skin by hand or with an applicator.

[0269] According to another aspect, the present invention provides a method for producing a method for manufacturing a pharmaceutical composition comprising: i) a container defining one or more compartments, the container being closed with a closure member and optionally being unsealed; ii) a makeup and / or care composition according to the invention placed inside said compartment; and The present invention also relates to a cosmetic assembly comprising:

[0270] The container may be, for example, in the form of a jar or box.

[0271] The closure member may be in the form of a lid comprising a cap attached so that it can be moved by translation or by pivoting relative to a container containing said makeup and / or care composition.

[0272] Such compositions are in particular prepared according to the general knowledge of the person skilled in the art.

[0273] Such compositions as described above can be used in particular for cosmetic applications according to the invention.

[0274] The present invention therefore also relates to the use of a composition according to the invention for caring for and / or making up keratinous materials, preferably for caring for keratinous materials, in particular the skin of the body and / or face.

[0275] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for making up and / or caring for keratinous materials, in particular the skin, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratinous materials a composition as defined above.

[0276] Preferably, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic method, in particular for caring for keratinous materials of the body and / or face, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratinous materials a composition as defined above.

[0277] Cosmetic methods for making up and / or caring for keratinous materials, and in particular the skin, are non-therapeutic.

[0278] In particular, the invention relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of said compositions for protecting keratinous materials, in particular the skin and / or lips and / or hair, against solar radiation.

[0279] The present invention also relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a composition as defined above for combating or preventing the signs of photoinduced premature ageing of keratinous materials, in particular the skin and / or lips and / or hair.

[0280] Furthermore, the present invention relates to the cosmetic use of a composition as defined above for preventing premature ageing of keratinous substances, in particular of the skin, in particular of the skin of the face, neck, arms, hands and / or shoulders, and in particular the signs of skin ageing of actinic origin, such as photoageing.

[0281] The present invention also relates to the cosmetic use of a composition as defined above for preventing loss of skin firmness and / or elasticity and / or tautness and / or softness, the formation of wrinkles and fine lines, a dull complexion and / or a shriveled appearance of the skin.

[0282] The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for protecting keratinous materials, in particular the skin and / or lips and / or hair, from solar radiation, which comprises applying at least one composition according to the invention to the surface of the keratinous materials.

[0283] The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for preventing and / or treating the signs of ageing, such as photoageing, of keratinous materials, comprising applying at least one composition according to the invention to the surface of the keratinous materials.

[0284] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "prevent" means at least partially reducing the risk of a given phenomenon occurring.

[0285] Throughout the description, including the claims, the term "comprises" is to be understood as synonymous with "comprises at least one," unless otherwise specified.

[0286] The expressions "of," "comprising," "formed from," and "in the range of" should be understood to include the limits unless otherwise specified.

[0287] In the description and examples, percentages are percentages by weight unless otherwise indicated. Thus, percentages are expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Temperatures are expressed in degrees Celsius unless otherwise indicated, and pressures are atmospheric pressure unless otherwise indicated.

[0288] The present invention is further illustrated by the following non-limiting examples. EXAMPLES

[0289] Example A: Preparation of merocyanines according to the invention Example A1: Preparation of Compound (A) [Chemical formula 10] [ka] 122.23 grams of 3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]-2-cyclohexen-1-one were alkylated with dimethyl sulfate or diethyl sulfate and treated with an approximately equimolar ratio of 75.45 grams of ethyl cyanoacetate in the presence of a base and optionally a solvent.

[0290] The following base / solvent combinations were used:

[0291] [Table 2]

[0292] The completion of the alkylation reaction can be monitored by methods such as TLC, GC or HPLC. 162.30 g of compound (14) are obtained in the form of a brown oil. After crystallization, the product is obtained in the form of yellowish crystals. Melting point: 92.7°C.

[0293] Example A2: Preparation of Compound (B) [Chemical formula 11] [ka] 101.00 g of 3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]-2-cyclohexen-1-one was alkylated with dimethyl sulfate or with diethyl sulfate and treated with an approximately equimolar ratio of 86.00 g of 2-cyano-N-(3-methoxypropyl)acetamide in the presence of a base and optionally a solvent.

[0294] The following base / solvent combinations were used:

[0295] [Table 3]

[0296] The crude product (B) was obtained in the form of a dark brown oil. After silica gel column chromatography (eluent: 99 / 1 toluene / methanol), 81.8 grams of product were obtained in the form of yellowish crystals. Melting point: 84.7~85.3°C.

[0297] Example A3: Preparation of compound (D) [Chemical formula 12] [ka] 13.09 g of 3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]-2-cyclohexen-1-one was alkylated with dimethyl sulfate or diethyl sulfate and treated with 10.12 g of isobutyl cyanoacetate in the presence of a base and optionally a solvent.

[0298] The following base / solvent combinations were used:

[0299] [Table 4]

[0300] 15.97 grams of crude product (27) were obtained in the form of a dark brown oil. After silica gel column chromatography (eluent: toluene / acetone), 13.46 g of product were obtained in the form of yellowish crystals. Melting point: 96.3℃.

[0301] Example A4: Preparation of Compound (C) [Chemical formula 13] [ka] 148.4 grams of 3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]-2-cyclohexen-1-one was alkylated with dimethyl sulfate or with diethyl sulfate and treated with 130.00 g of 2-ethoxyethyl cyanoacetate in the presence of an organic base and a solvent.

[0302] The following base / solvent combinations were used:

[0303] [Table 5]

[0304] Example: Composition 1 according to the invention: anhydrous serum The following compositions were prepared according to the following method: 1) Mix and heat glycol-based Phase A to 85-90°C with magnetic stirring. 2) Add B (vitamin C) while stirring magnetically and dissolve completely. 3) Remove from heat and add C (Methoxypropylaminocyclohexenylideneethoxyethylcyanoacetate shielding agent from Example A) with magnetic stirring until completely dissolved.

[0305] The values ​​are expressed as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0306] [Table 6]

[0307] Example: Composition 2 according to the invention: Aqueous serum The following compositions were prepared according to the following method: Preparation of Phase A: 1) Mix the ingredients of A1 with magnetic stirring (slowly add sodium hydroxide). 2) Add PQ-67 (A2) using a deflocculator to obtain a clear viscous gel.

[0308] Preparation of phase B: 1) Mix all ingredients of B1 at high temperature (50-60°C) with magnetic stirring. 2) Add niacinamide (B2) with magnetic stirring until completely dissolved. 3) Add caffeine (B3) with magnetic stirring until completely dissolved. Adjust water content (QS).

[0309] Preparation of phase C: Prepare a methoxypropylaminocyclohexenylidene ethoxyethyl cyanoacetate shielding agent + dipropylene glycol mixture with magnetic stirring and heat to accelerate the dissolution of the methoxypropylaminocyclohexenylidene ethoxyethyl cyanoacetate shielding agent (60-70 °C).

[0310] The mixture is allowed to come to room temperature and then phase B is added to phase A using a deflocculator to which alcohol (D) is added, and finally phase C is added to the final gel.

[0311] The values ​​are expressed as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0312] [Table 7]

[0313] Example: Composition 3 according to the invention: Emulsion The following compositions were prepared according to the following method: Phase A: Combine ingredients in a beaker with magnetic stirring at 40°C. Phase B: Combine ingredients in a beaker with magnetic stirring at 55°C.

[0314] Add B to A with rotor-stator emulsifier (3000 rpm) + scraper blade (90 rpm) (10 min).

[0315] Add C to A+B in rotor-stator emulsifier (3000 rpm) + scraper blade (90 rpm) (10 min, room temperature).

[0316] Then D is added rapidly followed by E: emulsifier (1500 rpm) + scraper blade (50 rpm) (10 min, room temperature).

[0317] Finally, add F: emulsifier (1500 rpm) + scraper blade (50 rpm) (10 min, room temperature).

[0318] The values ​​are expressed as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0319] [Table 8]

[0320] [Table 9]

[0321] Example: Evaluation of procollagen I production The efficacy of combinations according to the invention and combinations outside the scope of the invention are tested by analyzing procollagen 1 in the culture medium of normal human skin fibroblasts exposed to UVA.

[0322] Other materials and protocols used are specified below.

[0323] Experimental protocol cell culture -Normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDFs) obtained from mammoplasty. - Culture: 37℃, 5% CO2. - Culture and Test Media MEM containing 10% Fetal Calf Serum (FCS) (Gibco 10270-098), 2 mM L-Glutamine (Gibco 25030-024), 1 mM Sodium Pyruvate (Gibco 11360-039), 1X Non-Essential Amino Acids (Gibco 11140-035), 250 ng / ml Amphotericin B (Gibco 15290-018) and Penicillin / Streptomycin 20 U / 20 μg / ml (Gibco 21090-022).

[0324] Normal human dermal fibroblasts were seeded in complete MEM medium and incubated at 37° C. and 5% CO 2 for 72 hours.

[0325] Plating the formula The following prescription (1.3 mg / cm 2 ) was spread evenly on a PMMA plate: various similar formulations were prepared, differing in the presence or absence of a test compound, in particular by incorporating methoxypropylaminocyclohexenylidene ethoxyethyl cyanoacetate (according to Example A) according to the invention, as a control, at 1%, 2% or 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0326] Such a formulation containing 2% by weight of methoxypropylaminocyclohexenylidene ethoxyethyl cyanoacetate (from Example A) is set forth below.

[0327] Compositions containing UV filter systems outside the scope of the present invention are also prepared and tested.

[0328] Formulation containing 2% by weight of methoxypropylaminocyclohexenylidene ethoxyethyl cyanoacetate How to prepare the following formula: 1 / Heat phase A and phase B to 70-80°C with magnetic stirring. 2 / Introduce B into A for 10-15 minutes using a rotor-stator (1500 rpm). 3 / Introduce phase C using the rotor-stator (1500 rpm) 4 / Cool the emulsion to about 35-40℃ (ice water bath) 5 / Phase D is then introduced using the deflocculator paddle 6 / Using the deflocculator paddle, add Phase E and Phase F.

[0329] The values ​​are expressed as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0330] [Table 10]

[0331] [Table 11]

[0332] [Table 12]

[0333] A formulation comprising a UV filter system outside the scope of the invention, in particular in a content of 11.8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preparation method Phase A: Using a very tall beaker, introduce the aqueous phase A1 (boiling water). Using a rotor-stator, add the sunspheres (A2) for 20 minutes at 3000 rpm. Adjust the qs of the water and keep the temperature at 70°C. Phase B: Mix the ingredients of Phase B with magnetic stirring and heating (70-80°C). Introduce B into A for 10-15 minutes using a rotor-stator (1500 rpm). Cooling is performed by introducing phase D (cold water) through the rotor-stator Add Phase C (gelling agent) using the deflocculator paddle At a temperature below 30°C, phases E through H are added successively using a deflocculator paddle.

[0334] The values ​​are expressed as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0335] [Table 13]

[0336] [Table 14]

[0337] [Table 15]

[0338] Experimental protocol continued The cells were then illuminated at 25 J / cm using an Oriel solar simulator fitted with a WG335 filter. 2 The cells are exposed to a total UVA dose of 1000 nm for 3 consecutive days. Depending on the condition, a PMMA plate with a formulation containing a screening agent according to the invention or a screening agent outside the scope of the invention or a placebo formulation is placed above the cells during the exposure. After each exposure, the cells in the medium are treated or not with diluted ascorbic acid (10 μM). The cells are then incubated at 37° C. and 5% CO2. 48 hours after the last exposure, a cell viability test (XTT Roche catalog 11465015001) is performed and the number of cells in each well is evaluated using a Cyquant assay (Molecular Probes C7026). The medium is collected and a procollagen I assay is performed by ELISA (Abcam ab210966).

[0339] Each experimental condition is performed in duplicate or triplicate and at least three independent experiments are performed.

[0340] The results are shown in the table below.

[0341] [Table 16]

[0342] [Table 17]

[0343] [Table 18]

[0344] Under these experimental conditions, it is possible to precisely detect the amount of procollagen 1 synthesized and secreted by fibroblasts 48 hours after the last exposure.

[0345] Ascorbic acid, tested at 10 μM, significantly increased the secretion of procollagen 1 by fibroblasts.

[0346] UVA significantly reduced the ability of ascorbic acid to induce procollagen 1 secretion.

[0347] Surprisingly, the inventive combination of ascorbic acid with a methoxypropylaminocyclohexenylidene ethoxyethyl cyanoacetate screening agent, in particular a screening agent with a content of 2% or 3% by weight, increased the secretion of procollagen 1 in a similar manner to a combination outside the scope of the invention comprising ascorbic acid and a UV screening agent system with a total content of 11.8% by weight, while at the same time not requiring the presence of a high content of UV screening agent.

Claims

1. A cosmetic and / or dermatological composition, in particular for making up and / or caring for keratinous materials, comprising the following formula (I): 【Chemistry 1】 (In the formula, A is -O- or -NH; - R is C １ ~C ２２ Alkyl group, C ２ ~C ２２ Alkenyl group, C ２ ~C ２２ Alkynyl group, C ３ ~C ２２ Cycloalkyl group or C ３ ~C ２２ a cycloalkenyl group, said group being optionally interrupted by one or more O and also its E / E- or E / Z-geometric isomeric forms; - at least with ascorbic acid and / or its derivatives 1. A cosmetic and / or dermatological composition comprising:

2. 2. The composition according to claim 1, comprising, as at least one merocyanine of formula (I), at least one compound selected from the following compounds and also their E / E- or E / Z-geometric isomeric forms: 【Table 1】 【Table 2】

3. The merocyanine of formula (I) is the compound 2-ethoxyethyl (2Z)-cyano{3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]cyclohex-2-en-1-ylidene}ethanoate (C), which has the following structure: 【Chemistry 2】 and / or its E / Z geometry having the following structure: 【Chemistry 3】 3. The composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein the compound is 2-ethoxyethyl (2Z)-cyano{3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]cyclohex-2-en-1-ylidene}ethanoate (C) in its E / E geometric configuration having the formula:

4. 4. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the content of merocyanine of formula (I) ranges from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.2% to 10% by weight and more preferentially from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the ascorbic acid and / or its derivatives are selected from ascorbic acid, ascorbyl-2 glucoside and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, and mixtures thereof.

6. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, comprising ascorbic acid.

7. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the content of ascorbic acid and / or its derivatives ranges from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferentially from 2% to 20% by weight and even better still from 5% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, comprising at least one hydrotrope selected from nicotinamide, caffeine and mixtures thereof.

9. Nicotinamide, caffeine, salicylates, sodium salt of pyroglutamic acid (sodium PCA), sodium 1,3-benzenedisulfonate, sodium benzoate, sodium 4-pyridinecarboxylate, sodium benzenesulfonate, sodium p-toluenesulfonate (NaPTS), sodium butyl monoglycol sulfate (NaBMGS), 4-aminobenzoic acid HCl, sodium cumenesulfonate, N,N-diethylnicotinamide, N-picolylnicotinamide, N-allylnicotinamide 9. The composition of claim 8, comprising at least one hydrotrope selected from the group consisting of 2-methacryloyloxyethyl phosphorylcholine, resorcinol, pyrogallol, N-picolylacetamide, procaine HCl, proline HCl, pyridine, 3-picolylamine, sodium ibuprofen, sodium xylene sulfonate (SXS), ethyl carbamate, pyridoxal hydrochloride, sodium benzoate, N,N-dimethylacetamide, N-methylacetamide, isoniazid, and mixtures thereof.

10. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, comprising at least one hydrotrope selected from nicotinamide, caffeine, salicylates and mixtures thereof.

11. 11. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the content of hydrotrope ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight and in particular from 0.5% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one alcohol, in particular a monoalcohol, preferably ethanol.

13. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, which also comprises at least one alkylene carbonate, preferably propylene carbonate.

14. 14. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, comprising at least one polyol, in particular chosen from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, pentylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol (DPG), caprylyl glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols, polyethylene glycols (PEG) and mixtures thereof, in particular chosen from propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and mixtures thereof, preferably dipropylene glycol.

15. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one fatty phase, preferably ranging from 5% to 95% by weight, and preferably from 10% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

16. 16. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15, which also comprises at least one additional UV filter different from the merocyanine of formula (I).

17. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 16, characterized in that it is a cosmetic composition, in particular for caring for keratinous materials of the body or face, preferably the face.

18. A cosmetic method, in particular for caring for keratinous materials of the body and / or face, comprising at least one step of applying a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 17 to said keratinous materials.

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