Process for preparing w / o type cosmetic composition

Abstract

To provide a process for preparing a cosmetic composition that is soft even when containing a relatively large amount of wax, and offers a comfortable feeling during use.SOLUTION: The present invention provides a method for preparing a W / O type cosmetic composition comprising a continuous fatty phase and a plurality of dispersed aqueous phases, the method comprising the following steps: (1) preparing a fluid (a) fatty phase by mixing (a-1) at least one oil, (a-2) at least one crystallisable wax which has been melted, and (a-3) at least one optional ingredient for the (a) fatty phase; (2) preparing a fluid (b) aqueous phase by mixing (b-1) water and (b-2) at least one optional ingredient for the (b) aqueous phase; (3) mixing the fluid (a) fatty phase with the fluid (b) aqueous phase at a temperature at which the (a-2) crystallisable wax does not crystallize to obtain a mixture of the (a) fatty phase and the (b) aqueous phase; and (4) cooling the mixture obtained in step (3) to prepare the W / O type cosmetic composition.SELECTED DRAWING: Figure 1

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to a method for preparing a W / O type cosmetic composition, preferably a solid W / O type cosmetic composition, more preferably a solid W / O type cosmetic emulsion.

Background Art

[0002] Generally, when a makeup product, particularly a lip product such as a lipstick or a lip gloss, is used on a keratin substance such as the lips, it is preferable that the makeup product provides a comfortable feeling and a good makeup effect to the keratin substance during and after use.

[0003] WO2018 / 115328 discloses a lipstick in the form of a W / O type solid emulsion containing a continuous fatty phase and a dispersed aqueous phase. This lipstick can provide a fresh feeling during use and give moisture to the lips.

Prior Art Documents

Patent Documents

[0004]

Patent Document 1

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Non-Patent Document

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Summary of the Invention

Problems to be Solved by the Invention

[0006] Generally, lipsticks contain waxes to maintain their solid stick form. Increasing the amount of wax in a lipstick can also increase its hardness. However, an increase in the hardness of a lipstick may lead to poor applicability and, as a result, an unpleasant feeling during use.

[0007] The object of the present invention is to provide a method for preparing a cosmetic composition that is soft even when the cosmetic composition contains a relatively large amount of wax and is comfortable to use during application.

Means for Solving the Problems

[0008] The above object is a method for preparing a W / O type cosmetic composition, preferably a solid W / O type cosmetic composition, more preferably a solid W / O type cosmetic emulsion, which comprises a continuous fatty phase and a plurality of dispersed aqueous phases, comprising: (1) (a - 1) at least one oil, (a - 2) at least one melted crystalline wax, and (a - 3) (a) at least one optional component for the fatty phase preparing a fluid (a) fatty phase by mixing; (2) (b - 1) water, and (b - 2) (b) at least one optional component for the aqueous phase preparing a fluid (b) aqueous phase by mixing; (3) mixing the fluid (a) fatty phase with the fluid (b) aqueous phase at a temperature at which the (a - 2) crystalline wax does not crystallize to obtain a mixture of the fluid (a) fatty phase and the fluid (b) aqueous phase (4) Cooling the mixture obtained in step (3) to prepare a W / O type cosmetic composition, and including During step (4), the mixture obtained in step (3) can be subjected to shear stress at least at a temperature at which crystallization of the (a-2) crystalline wax starts, which can be achieved by a method.

[0009] In the method according to the present invention, the temperature at which crystallization of the (a-2) crystalline wax starts may be less than 90 °C, preferably less than 85 °C, more preferably less than 80 °C.

[0010] In the method according to the present invention, the mixture obtained in step (3) may be subjected to shear stress after crystallization of the (a-2) crystalline wax starts during step (4).

[0011] Also, in the method according to the present invention, the mixture obtained in step (3) may be subjected to shear stress even before crystallization of the (a-2) crystalline wax starts during step (4).

[0012] In the method according to the present invention, the shear stress can be applied to the mixture obtained in step (3) using at least one mechanical device selected from the group consisting of a propeller mixer, a rotor / stator homogenizer, a scraped surface heat exchanger, an extruder, and a static mixer.

[0013] In the method according to the present invention, the shear stress can be applied to the mixture obtained in step (3) using at least one cavitation device selected from the group consisting of a high-pressure homogenizer and an ultrasonic processor.

[0014] The method according to the present invention may further include step (5) of further mixing at least one additional component with the mixture obtained in step (3) after step (3) and before step (4).

[0015] The W / O type cosmetic composition can have a hardness of less than 5.6 g / mm, preferably less than 5.0 g / mm, more preferably less than 4.4 g / mm.

[0016] The amount of (a-1) oil in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 15% by mass to 45% by mass, preferably 20% by mass to 40% by mass, more preferably 25% by mass to 35% by mass based on the total mass of the composition.

[0017] The amount of (a-2) crystalline wax in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 12% by mass or more, preferably 13% by mass or more, more preferably 14% by mass or more based on the total mass of the composition.

[0018] The amount of (a-2) crystalline wax in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 12% by mass to 30% by mass, preferably 13% by mass to 25% by mass, more preferably 14% by mass to 20% by mass based on the total mass of the composition.

[0019] The W / O type cosmetic composition can satisfy the following conditions: (a-2) crystalline wax includes (a-2-1-1) non-polar crystalline wax having a melting point of 80°C or higher, (a-2-1-2) non-polar crystalline wax having a melting point of less than 80°C, and (a-2-2) polar crystalline wax, The amount of (a-2-1-1) non-polar crystalline wax having a melting point of 80°C or higher is 40% by mass or more, preferably 50% by mass or more, more preferably 60% by mass or more based on the total mass of (a-2-1-1) non-polar crystalline wax having a melting point of 80°C or higher, (a-2-1-2) non-polar crystalline wax having a melting point of less than 80°C, and (a-2-2) polar crystalline wax.

[0020] The amount of (b-1) water in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 5% by mass to 40% by mass, preferably 10% by mass to 35% by mass, more preferably 15% by mass to 30% by mass based on the total mass of the composition.

[0021] The present invention also relates to a W / O-type cosmetic composition, preferably a makeup cosmetic composition, more preferably a composition for a lipstick, prepared by the method according to the present invention.

[0022] The present invention also relates to a method for controlling the crystallization of waxes in a W / O-type cosmetic composition, preferably a solid W / O-type cosmetic composition, more preferably a solid W / O-type cosmetic emulsion, comprising a continuous fatty phase and a plurality of dispersed aqueous phases, (1) (a-1) at least one oil, (a-2) at least one crystalline wax that is melted, and (a-3)(a) at least one optional component for the fatty phase are mixed to prepare a fluid (a) fatty phase; (2) (b-1) water, and (b-2)(b) at least one optional component for the aqueous phase are mixed to prepare a fluid (b) aqueous phase; (3) The fluid (a) fatty phase is mixed with the fluid (b) aqueous phase at a temperature at which the crystalline wax in (a-2) does not crystallize to obtain a mixture of the fluid (a) fatty phase and the fluid (b) aqueous phase; (4) The mixture obtained in step (3) is cooled to form a W / O-type cosmetic composition; and also relates to a method in which, during step (4), the mixture obtained in step (3) is subjected to shear stress at least at a temperature at which crystallization of the crystalline wax in (a-2) starts. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0023]

Figure 1

Figure 2

Figure 3

Figure 4

Mode for Carrying Out the Invention

[0024] As a result of intensive studies, the present inventors have discovered that even when a cosmetic composition contains a relatively large amount of wax, it is possible to provide a soft and comfortable cosmetic composition during use.

[0025] Therefore, the present invention is a method for preparing a W / O type cosmetic composition, preferably a solid W / O type composition, more preferably a solid W / O type emulsion, which contains a continuous fatty phase and a plurality of dispersed aqueous phases, (1) (a-1) At least one oil, (a-2) At least one crystalline wax that has been melted, and (a-3) At least one optional component for the fatty phase (a) By mixing these, a step of preparing a fluid (a) fatty phase, (2) (b-1) Water, and (b-2) At least one optional component for the aqueous phase (b) By mixing these, a step of preparing a fluid (b) aqueous phase, (3) At a temperature at which the crystalline wax in (a-2) does not crystallize, mixing the fluid (a) fatty phase with the fluid (b) aqueous phase to obtain a mixture of the fluid (a) fatty phase and the fluid (b) aqueous phase, (4) Cooling the mixture obtained in step (3) to prepare a W / O type cosmetic composition, including During step (4), the mixture obtained in step (3) is subjected to shear stress at least at the temperature at which crystallization of the crystalline wax in (a-2) starts, and relates to a method.

[0026] The method according to the present invention can prepare a soft W / O type cosmetic composition even when the composition contains a relatively large amount of wax. In other words, the composition prepared by the method according to the present invention is soft even when the composition contains a relatively large amount of wax.

[0027] The composition prepared by the method according to the present invention can provide a comfortable feeling during use. For example, it can provide a smooth slipperiness, an appropriate amount of adhesion of the composition, a soft feeling, and a melting feeling. Therefore, the composition prepared by the method according to the present invention has excellent usability.

[0028] Furthermore, the composition prepared by the method according to the present invention can provide a good makeup effect after use.

[0029] For example, the composition prepared by the method according to the present invention can provide, for example, a long-lasting makeup effect against sebum or water, such as that given by sweat or rain, and a reduction in color transfer to the object in contact with the keratinous substance to which the composition is applied.

[0030] The composition prepared by the method according to the present invention is suitable for lipsticks.

[0031] Hereinafter, the method according to the present invention will be described in detail. First, the composition prepared by the method according to the present invention will be described, and subsequently, the steps of the method according to the present invention will be described.

[0032] [Composition] In the composition prepared by the method according to the present invention, a plurality of (b) aqueous phases are dispersed in the (a) fatty phase. The (b) aqueous phase is a discontinuous phase, while the (a) fatty phase is a continuous phase. In this specification, this form is referred to as "W / O type".

[0033] The W / O type cosmetic composition prepared by the method according to the present invention (a) (a-1) at least one oil, and (a-2) At least one crystalline wax and a continuous or outer fatty phase containing (b) (b-1) water and a plurality of dispersed, discontinuous or inner aqueous phases containing .

[0034] The amount of the (a) fatty phase in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 27% by mass or more, preferably 35% by mass or more, more preferably 40% by mass or more based on the total mass of the composition.

[0035] The amount of the (a) fatty phase in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 70% by mass or less, preferably 65% by mass or less, more preferably 60% by mass or less based on the total mass of the composition.

[0036] The amount of the (a) fatty phase in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 27% by mass to 70% by mass, preferably 35% by mass to 65% by mass, more preferably 40% by mass to 60% by mass based on the total mass of the composition.

[0037] The amount of the (b) aqueous phase in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 10% by mass or more, preferably 15% by mass or more, more preferably 20% by mass or more based on the total mass of the composition.

[0038] The amount of the (b) aqueous phase in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 40% by mass or less, preferably 35% by mass or less, more preferably 30% by mass or less based on the total mass of the composition.

[0039] The amount of the (b) aqueous phase in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 10% by mass to 40% by mass, preferably 15% by mass to 35% by mass, more preferably 20% by mass to 30% by mass based on the total mass of the composition.

[0040] (oil) The W / O type cosmetic composition contains (a-1) at least one oil. When two or more (a-1) oils are used, they may be the same or different.

[0041] (a-1) The oil can be present in the (a) fatty phase.

[0042] In this specification, "oil" means a fatty compound or fatty substance in the form of a liquid or paste (non-solid) at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As the oil, those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0043] (a-1) The oil may be a nonpolar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil or a silicone oil, a polar oil such as a vegetable oil, an animal oil, an ester oil or an ether oil, or a mixture thereof.

[0044] (a-1) The oil can be selected from the group consisting of oils of plant or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils, and fatty alcohols.

[0045] Examples of vegetable oils include, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0046] Examples of animal oils include, for example, squalene and squalane.

[0047] Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils, and artificial triglycerides.

[0048] The ester oil is preferably a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C 26 aliphatic monoacid or polyacid and a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C 26It is a liquid ester with a monohydric or polyhydric aliphatic alcohol, and the total number of carbon atoms in the ester is 10 or more.

[0049] Preferably, in the case of an ester of a monohydric alcohol, at least one of the alcohol and the acid from which the ester of the present invention is derived is branched.

[0050] Among the monoesters of a monoacid and a monohydric alcohol, ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristate, such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, and isostearyl neopentanoate can be mentioned.

[0051] Also, C4 - C 22 esters of dicarboxylic acid or tricarboxylic acid and C1 - C 22 alcohol, and esters of monocarboxylic acid, dicarboxylic acid or tricarboxylic acid and non-sugar C4 - C 26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohol may be used.

[0052] Particularly mentionable are diethyl sebacate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, diisopropyl sebacate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate, diisostearyl adipate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate, triisopropyl citrate, triisocetyl citrate, triisostearyl citrate, glyceryl trilactate, glyceryl trioctanoate, trioctyldodecyl citrate, trioleyl citrate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, and diethylene glycol diisononanoate.

[0053] As the ester oil, C6 - C 30 , preferably C 12 ~C22 Fatty acid sugar esters and diesters can be used. The term "sugar" is recalled to mean an oxygen-containing hydrocarbon compound containing several alcohol functional groups and at least 4 carbon atoms, regardless of the presence or absence of an aldehyde or ketone functional group. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

[0054] Examples of suitable sugars that can be mentioned include sucrose (or cane sugar), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives such as methyl derivatives, for example methyl glucose.

[0055] The sugar esters of fatty acids include, inter alia, the aforementioned sugars and linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C 30 , preferably C 12 ~C 22 It can be selected from the group consisting of esters or ester mixtures with fatty acids. When they are unsaturated, these compounds can have 1 to 3 conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0056] The esters according to this variant can also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

[0057] These esters may be, for example, oleic acid esters, lauric acid esters, palmitic acid esters, myristic acid esters, behenic acid esters, coconut fatty acid esters, stearic acid esters, linoleic acid esters, linolenic acid esters, capric acid esters and arachidonic acid esters, or mixtures thereof, for example, especially mixed esters of oleopalmitic acid, oleostearic acid, and palmitostearic acid, and pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate.

[0058] More specifically, mono-esters and di-esters, especially mono-oleic acid esters or di-oleic acid esters, stearic acid esters, behenic acid esters, oleopalmitic acid esters, linoleic acid esters, linolenic acid esters and oleostearic acid esters of sucrose, glucose or methyl glucose are used.

[0059] An example that can be cited is a product sold by Amerchol under the name Glucate(registered trademark)DO, which is methyl glucose dioleate.

[0060] Examples of preferred ester oils include, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, (caprylic acid / capric acid) 2-ethylhexyl, (caprylic acid / capric acid) coconut alkyl, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

[0061] Examples of artificial triglycerides include, for example, caprylyl capric glyceride, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(capric acid / caprylic acid) and glyceryl tri(capric acid / caprylic acid / linolenic acid).

[0062] Examples of silicone oils include, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, etc., cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, etc., and mixtures thereof.

[0063] Preferably, the silicone oil is selected from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, especially liquid polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS), and liquid polyorganosiloxanes containing at least one aryl group.

[0064] These silicone oils may also be organically modified. The organically modified silicones that can be used in the present invention are silicone oils as defined above and containing one or more organic functional groups bonded via hydrocarbon-based groups in their structures.

[0065] Organopolysiloxanes are more specifically defined in Walter Noll's Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press. They may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0066] When they are volatile, the silicones are more specifically selected from those having a boiling point between 60°C and 260°C, and even more specifically selected from the following: (i) Cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing 3 to 7, preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These include, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold by Union Carbide under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207, or by Rhodia under the name Silbione® 70045 V2, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold by Union Carbide under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158, by Rhodia under the name Silbione® 70045 V5, and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold by Momentive Performance Materials under the name Silsoft 1217, and mixtures thereof. Cyclocopolymers of the type dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane, for example, Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109 sold by Union Carbide, of the following formula, can also be mentioned:

[0067] [Chemical formula]

[0068] Mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes and organosilicon compounds, for example, a mixture (50 / 50) of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol, and a mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-bis(2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane can also be mentioned. (ii) Containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of 5×10 -6 m 2Linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes having a viscosity of less than / second. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane, sold under the name SH 200, especially by Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this classification are also described in the paper published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, January 76, pp. 27 - 32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of the silicone is measured at 25 °C in accordance with ASTM Standard 445 Appendix C.

[0069] Non - volatile polydialkylsiloxanes can also be used. These non - volatile silicones are more particularly selected from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which can be mainly mentioned polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end - groups.

[0070] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following commercially available products can be mentioned non - limitatively: - The 47 and 70047 series of Silbione® oil or Mirasil® oil sold by Rhodia, for example, 70047 V 500000 oil, - The oils of the Mirasil® series sold by Rhodia, - The 200 series of oils manufactured by Dow Corning, for example, DC200 having a viscosity of 60000 mm 2 / second, and - Viscasil® oil manufactured by General Electric, and certain oils of the SF series of General Electric (SF 96, SF 18).

[0071] Polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end - groups, known by the name dimethiconol (CTFA), for example, the oils of the 48 series manufactured by Rhodia, can also be mentioned.

[0072] Among silicones containing an aryl group, polydiarylsiloxanes, especially polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes, such as phenyl silicone oil, can be mentioned.

[0073] Phenyl silicone oil has the following formula:

[0074] [Chemical formula]

[0075] (wherein, R1 to R 10 are, independently of each other, saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C1-C 30 hydrocarbon-based groups, preferably C1-C 12 hydrocarbon-based groups, more preferably C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based groups, especially each group of methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl, m, n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers from 0 to 900 including both ends, preferably integers from 0 to 500 including both ends, more preferably integers from 0 to 100 including both ends, provided that the sum n + m + q is other than 0) and may be selected from phenyl silicones of

[0076] Examples that can be mentioned include products sold under the following names: - The 70 641 series of Silbione® oil manufactured by Rhodia, - The oils of the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 series manufactured by Rhodia, - Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid oil manufactured by Dow Corning, - The PK series of silicones manufactured by Bayer, such as product PK20, - Specific oils of the SF series manufactured by General Electric, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

[0077] As the phenyl silicone oil, phenyltrimethicone (in the above formula, R1 to R 10 is methyl, p, q and n = 0, and m = 1) is preferred.

[0078] The organically modified liquid silicone may particularly contain a polyethyleneoxy group and / or a polypropyleneoxy group. Therefore, silicone KF-6017 proposed by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd., and Silwet (registered trademark) L722 oil and L77 oil manufactured by Union Carbide can be mentioned.

[0079] The hydrocarbon oil can be selected from the following: - Linear or branched, optionally cyclic C6 - C 16 lower alkanes. Examples that can be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane, isododecane, and isodecane. - Linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffin, liquid petrolatum, polydecene, and hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as Parleam (registered trademark), and squalane.

[0080] Preferred examples of the hydrocarbon oil include, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalene, etc.; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane, and decene / butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.

[0081] The term "fatty" in fatty alcohol means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Therefore, alcohols having 4 or more, preferably 6 or more, more preferably 12 or more carbon atoms are included within the scope of fatty alcohols. The fatty alcohol may be saturated or unsaturated. The fatty alcohol may be linear or branched.

[0082] The aliphatic alcohol may have the structure R-OH (wherein R is selected from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched groups containing 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 12 to 20 carbon atoms). In at least one embodiment, R is C 12 ~C 20 alkyl group and C 12 ~C 20 alkenyl group. R may or may not be substituted with at least one hydroxyl group.

[0083] Examples of aliphatic alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyl decanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0084] The aliphatic alcohol is preferably a saturated aliphatic alcohol.

[0085] Thus, the aliphatic alcohol can be a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C 30 alcohol, preferably a linear or branched, saturated C6-C 30 alcohol, more preferably a linear or branched, saturated C 12 ~C 20 alcohol.

[0086] The term "saturated aliphatic alcohol" as used herein means an alcohol having a long aliphatic saturated carbon chain. It is preferred that the saturated aliphatic alcohol is selected from any linear or branched, saturated C6-C 30 aliphatic alcohol. Among the linear or branched, saturated C6-C 30 aliphatic alcohols, the linear or branched, saturated C 12 ~C20 Aliphatic alcohols can preferably be used. Any linear or branched saturated C 16 ~C 20 Aliphatic alcohols can more preferably be used. Branched C 16 ~C 20 Aliphatic alcohols can even more preferably be used.

[0087] Examples of saturated aliphatic alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyl decanol, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyl decanol, or a mixture thereof (e.g., cetearyl alcohol) and behenyl alcohol can be used as the saturated aliphatic alcohol.

[0088] According to at least one embodiment, the aliphatic alcohol used in the W / O type cosmetic composition is preferably selected from cetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyl decanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0089] (a-1) It is also preferable that the oil is selected from oils having a molecular weight of less than 600 g / mol.

[0090] Preferably, the (a-1) oil has a low molecular weight such as less than 600 g / mol and has one or more short hydrocarbon chains (C1~C 12 ) ester oils (e.g., isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isononyl isononanoate, and ethylhexyl palmitate), silicone oils (e.g., volatile silicones such as cyclohexasiloxane), hydrocarbon oils (e.g., isododecane, isohexadecane, and squalane), branched and / or unsaturated aliphatic alcohols (C 12 ~C 30) type of oil, such as octyldodecanol and oleyl alcohol, and ether oils, such as dicaprylyl ether, is selected.

[0091] (a-1) It is preferable that the oil is selected from volatile oils, non-volatile oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0092] In one embodiment, (a) the fatty phase may comprise: (a-1-1) at least one volatile oil, preferably a volatile non-polar oil, more preferably a volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oil, such as isododecane and isohexadecane, and (a-1-2) at least one non-volatile oil, preferably a non-volatile non-polar oil, more preferably a non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oil, such as hydrogenated polyisobutene.

[0093] (a) It may be preferable that the fatty phase contains a limited amount of silicone oil, such as 10% by mass or less, 5% by mass or less, and 1% by mass or less. In some cases, it may be more preferable that the (a) fatty phase does not contain silicone oil.

[0094] According to a preferred embodiment, the W / O type cosmetic composition lacks silicone oil.

[0095] The amount of the (a-1) oil in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 15% by mass or more, preferably 20% by mass or more, more preferably 25% by mass or more, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0096] The amount of the (a-1) oil in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 45% by mass or less, preferably 40% by mass or less, more preferably 35% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0097] The amount of the (a-1) oil in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 15% by mass to 45% by mass, preferably 20% by mass to 40% by mass, more preferably 25% by mass to 35% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0098] (Wax) The W / O type cosmetic composition contains (a-2) at least one crystalline wax. When two or more (a-2) crystalline waxes are used, they may be the same or different.

[0099] (a-2) The crystalline wax can be present in the (a) fatty phase.

[0100] The term "wax" as used in the present invention is understood to mean a lipophilic compound that is solid at room temperature (25 °C), has a reversible solid / liquid state change, and has a melting point of 30 °C or higher.

[0101] In this specification, the melting point of the wax means the temperature at which the entire wax melts.

[0102] (a-2) The crystalline wax can be selected from polar waxes, non-polar waxes, and mixtures thereof, and is preferably selectable from polar ester waxes, non-polar hydrocarbon waxes, and mixtures thereof.

[0103] The amount of (a-2) crystalline wax in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 12% by mass or more, preferably 13% by mass or more, more preferably 14% by mass or more, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0104] The amount of (a-2) crystalline wax in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 30% by mass or less, preferably 25% by mass or less, more preferably 20% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0105] The amount of (a-2) crystalline wax in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 12% by mass to 30% by mass, preferably 13% by mass to 25% by mass, more preferably 14% by mass to 20% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0106] Non-polar wax Preferably, the W / O type cosmetic composition contains (a-2-1) at least one nonpolar crystalline wax. When two or more (a-2-1) nonpolar crystalline waxes are used, they may be the same or different.

[0107] (a-2-1) The nonpolar crystalline wax may be present in the (a) fatty phase of the W / O type cosmetic composition.

[0108] (a-2-1) The nonpolar crystalline wax may have a melting point of 35°C to 130°C, preferably 40°C to 125°C, more preferably 45°C to 120°C.

[0109] (a-2-1) The nonpolar crystalline wax can form crystals at the crystallization temperature. Therefore, the crystallization of (a-2-1) nonpolar crystalline wax starts at the crystallization temperature. The crystallization temperature can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example, a calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by Mettler.

[0110] In the context of the present invention, the term "nonpolar" wax means a wax having a solubility parameter δ at 25°C defined as follows a equal to 0 (J / cm 3 )1 / 2.

[0111] The definition and calculation of the solubility parameter in the Hansen three-dimensional solubility space are described in the paper "The three-dimensional solubility parameters" by C.M. Hansen, J. Paint Technol, 39, page 105 (1967).

[0112] According to this Hansen space, - δ D characterizes the London dispersion force resulting from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular collisions, - δ p characterizes both the Debye interaction force between permanent dipoles and the Keesom interaction force between an induced dipole and a permanent dipole, - δh characterizes a specific interaction force (e.g., acid / base, donor / acceptor, hydrogen bond, etc.), - δ a is given by the formula: δ a =(δ p 2 +δh 2 )1 / 2.

[0113] The parameter δ p , δ h , δ D , and δ a is expressed in (J / cm 3 )1 / 2.

[0114] (a-2-1) The nonpolar crystalline wax may be of plant, mineral, animal, or synthetic origin.

[0115] (a-2-1) The nonpolar crystalline wax can be selected particularly from hydrocarbon waxes composed only of carbon and hydrogen atoms and lacking heteroatoms such as N, O, Si, and P.

[0116] Examples of (a-2-1) nonpolar crystalline waxes include hydrocarbon waxes such as polyolefin waxes such as polyethylene wax and polypropylene wax, microcrystalline waxes, synthetic waxes, paraffin waxes, and ozokerite.

[0117] According to a preferred embodiment, the W / O type cosmetic composition contains at least one polyethylene wax. Examples of polyethylene waxes that can be mentioned include Asensa® SC 211 sold by Honeywell, Performalene 500-L Polyethylene and Performalene 400 Polyethylene sold by New Phase Technologies.

[0118] The polyethylene wax may be in the form of a powder. Examples of such powdery waxes include polyethylene micro waxes such as those sold under the names Micropoly 200 (registered trademark), 220 (registered trademark), 220L (registered trademark), and 250S (registered trademark) by Micro Powders.

[0119] According to another preferred embodiment, the W / O type cosmetic composition contains at least one microcrystalline wax. Examples of microcrystalline waxes that can be used include Multiwax W 445 (registered trademark) sold by Sonneborn, and Micro wax HW (registered trademark) and Base Wax 30540 (registered trademark) sold by Paramelt.

[0120] According to a preferred embodiment, the W / O type cosmetic composition contains at least one synthetic wax. The synthetic wax can be obtained by the Fischer-Tropsch method. Therefore, the synthetic wax can be a Fischer-Tropsch wax. An example of the synthetic wax is CireWax 90 manufactured by DKSH Japan Co., Ltd.

[0121] According to a preferred embodiment, the W / O type cosmetic composition contains at least one paraffin wax. Typically, the paraffin wax is composed of C 16 ~C 40 hydrocarbons, preferably linear C 16 ~C 40 hydrocarbons, more preferably linear C 20 ~C 40 hydrocarbons. The molecular weight of the paraffin wax may be 300 to 550.

[0122] Examples of ozokerite include those sold under the name Ozokerite Wax Pastilles SP 1021 P.

[0123] The W / O type cosmetic composition preferably contains the following: (a-2-1-1) At least one nonpolar crystalline wax having a melting point of 80 °C or higher, and (a-2-1-2) At least one nonpolar crystalline wax having a melting point of less than 80 °C.

[0124] (a-2-1-1) The nonpolar crystalline wax having a melting point of 80 °C or higher can be selected from nonpolar hydrocarbon waxes, preferably polyolefin waxes, more preferably polyethylene waxes, microcrystalline waxes, synthetic waxes, and mixtures thereof.

[0125] (a-2-1-2) The nonpolar crystalline wax having a melting point of less than 80 °C can be selected from nonpolar hydrocarbon waxes, preferably polyolefin waxes, more preferably paraffin waxes, ozokerite, and mixtures thereof.

[0126] The amount of (a-2-1) nonpolar crystalline wax in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 6% by mass or more, preferably 8% by mass or more, more preferably 10% by mass or more, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0127] The amount of (a-2-1) nonpolar crystalline wax in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 17% by mass or less, preferably 16% by mass or less, more preferably 15% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0128] The amount of (a-2-1) nonpolar crystalline wax in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 6% to 17% by mass, preferably 8% to 16% by mass, more preferably 10% to 15% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0129] (a-2-1-1) The amount of the nonpolar crystalline wax having a melting point of 80°C or higher may be 40% by mass or more, preferably 50% by mass or more, more preferably 60% by mass or more, based on the total mass of (a-2-1-1) the nonpolar crystalline wax having a melting point of 80°C or higher, (a-2-1-2) the nonpolar crystalline wax having a melting point of less than 80°C, and (a-2-2) the polar crystalline wax described below.

[0130] Polar wax Preferably, the W / O type cosmetic composition contains (a-2-2) at least one polar crystalline wax. When two or more (a-2-2) polar crystalline waxes are used, they may be the same or different.

[0131] (a-2-2) The polar crystalline wax can be present in the (a) fatty phase of the W / O type cosmetic composition.

[0132] In particular, (a-2-2) the polar crystalline wax can have a melting point of 60°C to 120°C, preferably 70°C to 110°C, more preferably 80°C to 100°C.

[0133] (a-2-2) The polar crystalline wax can form crystals at the crystallization temperature. Therefore, the crystallization of (a-2-2) the polar crystalline wax starts at the crystallization temperature. The crystallization temperature can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example, a calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by Mettler.

[0134] (a-2-2) The polar crystalline wax may be of plant, mineral, animal, or synthetic origin.

[0135] (a-2-2) The polar crystalline wax is essentially formed from or even composed of carbon atoms and hydrogen atoms, and has a chemical structure containing at least one highly electronegative heteroatom such as an oxygen, nitrogen, silicon, or phosphorus atom.

[0136] As used herein, the term "polar wax" means a wax having a solubility parameter δ at 25 °C a other than 0 (J / cm 3 )1 / 2.

[0137] The definition and calculation of solubility parameters in Hansen's three-dimensional solubility space are described in the paper "The three-dimensional solubility parameters" by C.M. Hansen, J. Paint Technol, 39, page 105 (1967).

[0138] According to this Hansen space, - δ D characterizes the London dispersion force resulting from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular collisions, - δ p characterizes both the Debye interaction force between permanent dipoles and the Keesom interaction force between an induced dipole and a permanent dipole, - δ h characterizes specific interaction forces (such as acid / base, donor / acceptor, hydrogen bonding, etc.), - δ a - δ is determined by the formula: δ a =(δ p 2 +δh 2 )1 / 2.

[0139] The parameters δ p 、δ h 、δ D 、and δ a are expressed in (J / cm 3 )1 / 2.

[0140] (a-2-2) The polar crystalline wax may in particular be a hydrocarbon, fluorine or silicone wax. The term "hydrocarbon wax" means a wax that is essentially formed from, or even composed of, carbon atoms and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen atoms and nitrogen atoms, and that contains no silicon atoms or fluorine atoms at all. It may contain alcohol groups, ester groups, ether groups, carboxylic acid groups, amine groups and / or amide groups. The term "fluorine wax" means a wax containing at least one fluorine atom, in particular at least one perfluoro group. The term "silicone wax" means a wax containing at least one silicon atom, in particular a Si-O group.

[0141] According to a preferred embodiment, the (a-2-2) polar crystalline wax is a hydrocarbon wax.

[0142] As the polar hydrocarbon wax, a wax selected from ester waxes and alcohol waxes is particularly preferred.

[0143] According to the present invention, the expression "ester wax" is understood to mean a wax containing at least one ester functional group.

[0144] According to the present invention, the term "alcohol wax" means a wax containing at least one alcohol functional group, that is, containing at least one free hydroxyl (OH) group.

[0145] The following can be used in particular as ester waxes: - Ester waxes, for example those selected from the following: i) A wax of the formula R1COOR2 (wherein R1 and R2 represent a linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chain, the number of atoms thereof varies from 10 to 50, may contain heteroatoms such as O, N or P, and its melting point varies from 25 °C to 120 °C). In particular, as the ester wax, (hydroxystearyloxy) stearic acid C 20 ~C 40 alkyl (alkyl group containing 20 to 40 carbon atoms), or stearic acid C 20 ~C 40 alkyl can be used. Such waxes are sold, inter alia, by Koster Keunen under the names Kester Wax K 82 P (registered trademark), Hydroxypolyester K 82 P (registered trademark), Kester Wax K 80 P (registered trademark) or Kester Wax K82H.

[0146] Montanic acid (octacosanoic acid) glycol and butylene glycol, for example, the wax Licowax KPS Flakes (INCI name: montanic acid glycol) sold by Clariant can also be used.

[0147] ii) Bis(1,1,1 - trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, sold by Heterene under the name Hest 2T - 4S (registered trademark).

[0148] iii) General formula R 3 -(-OCO - R 4 -COO - R 5 )(wherein R 3 and R 5 are the same or different, preferably the same, and represent a C4 - C 30 alkyl group (alkyl group containing 4 to 30 carbon atoms), and R 4 represents a linear or branched C4 - C 30 aliphatic group (alkyl group containing 4 to 30 carbon atoms), which may or may not contain one or more unsaturated groups) of a dicarboxylic acid diester wax. Preferably, C4 - C30 The aliphatic group is linear and unsaturated.

[0149] iv) A wax obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of an animal or vegetable oil having a linear or branched C8-C 32 For example, waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having a fatty chain, such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, etc. Further, waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax Ricin 16L64 (registered trademark) and 22L73 (registered trademark) by Sophim, can also be mentioned. Such waxes are described in patent application FR-A-2 792 190. Examples of waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol include those sold under the name Phytowax Olive 18 L 57.

[0150] v) Also, bead wax, synthetic bead wax, polyglycerolized bead wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, oxypropylene lanolin wax, rice bran wax, oricury wax, esparto grass wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japan wax, sumach wax, montan wax, orange wax, laurel wax, and hydrogenated jojoba wax can also be mentioned.

[0151] According to a preferred embodiment, the W / O type cosmetic composition contains polar crystalline waxes derived from plants, such as jojoba ester, sunflower seed wax, and acacia decurrens flower wax.

[0152] According to another embodiment, the (a-2-2) polar crystalline wax may be an alcohol wax.

[0153] Examples of alcohol waxes that can be mentioned include, for example, the wax Performacol 550-L Alcohol manufactured by New Phase Technologies, stearyl alcohol, and cetyl alcohol.

[0154] (a-2-2) The polar crystalline wax may be a silicone wax, for example, a silicone-treated bead wax. However, according to a preferred embodiment, the W / O type cosmetic composition lacks any silicone wax.

[0155] In particular, the (a-2-2) polar crystalline wax can be selected from polar ester waxes, preferably plant-derived polar ester waxes, more preferably jojoba ester, sunflower seed wax, acacia flower wax, and mixtures thereof.

[0156] The amount of the (a-2-2) polar crystalline wax in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 0.01% by mass or more, preferably 0.05% by mass or more, more preferably 0.1% by mass or more, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0157] The amount of the (a-2-2) polar crystalline wax in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 7% by mass or less, preferably 6% by mass or less, more preferably less than 5% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0158] The amount of the (a-2-2) polar crystalline wax in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be from 0.01% by mass to less than 7% by mass, preferably from 0.05% by mass to less than 6% by mass, more preferably from 0.1% by mass to less than 5% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0159] {Optional components for the fatty phase} (a) The fatty phase may contain (a-3) at least one optional component. When two or more (a-3) optional components for the (a) fatty phase are used, they may be the same or different.

[0160] (a-3)(a) Optional components for the fatty phase can be selected from indene resins, film-forming polymers, and mixtures thereof.

[0161] (Indene resin) The W / O type cosmetic composition may contain (a-3-1) at least one indene resin. When using two or more (a-3-1) indene resins, they may be the same or different.

[0162] (a-3-1) The indene resin can be present in the (a) fatty phase.

[0163] (a-3-1) The indene resin can function as a lipophilic thickener.

[0164] According to the present invention, the "lipophilic thickener" can increase the viscosity of the (a) fatty phase, at room temperature (25 °C), atmospheric pressure and a shear rate of 1 s -1 and is introduced into the (a) fatty phase up to at least 20 cps, preferably up to at least 50 cps (the viscosity may be measured using a cone / plate viscometer, a Haake R600 rheometer, etc.).

[0165] Preferably, the hydrocarbon resin has a number average molecular weight of 10,000 g / mol or less, particularly in the range of 250 to 5000 g / mol, more preferably 2000 g / mol or less, particularly in the range of 250 to 2000 g / mol.

[0166] The number average molecular weight (Mn) is determined by gel permeation liquid chromatography (a calibration curve established using a THF solvent and linear polystyrene standards, a refractive index detector).

[0167] (a-3-1) An indene resin means a resin derived at least from indene. The (a-3-1) indene resin may be a homopolymer of indene or a copolymer of indene and any optional comonomer. The comonomer is preferably selected from polymerizable hydrocarbons, preferably hydrocarbons having at least one carbon-carbon double bond.

[0168] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polymer" means a compound corresponding to the repetition of one or more units (these units are derived from compounds known as monomers). This or these units are repeated at least twice, preferably at least three times.

[0169] (a-3-1) The indene resin can be selected from indene hydrocarbon resins.

[0170] Indene hydrocarbon resins can be derived from the polymerization of mostly indene monomers with a small amount of hydrocarbon monomers selected from styrene, methyl indene, and methyl styrene, and mixtures thereof. These resins may optionally be hydrogenated. These resins can have a molecular weight in the range of 290 to 1150 g / mol. Examples of indene resins that can be mentioned include those sold under the name Escorez 7105 by Exxon Chem., under the names Nevchem 100 and Nevex 100 by Neville Chem., under the name Norsolene S105 by Sartomer, under the name Picco 6100 by Hercules, and under the name Resinall by Resinall Corp., or hydrogenated styrene / methyl styrene / indene copolymers sold under the name "Regalite" by Eastman Chemical, particularly Regalite R1100, Regalite R1090, Regalite R7100, Regalite R1010 hydrocarbon resin, and Regalite R1125 hydrocarbon resin.

[0171] According to a preferred embodiment, the resin is selected from hydrogenated styrene / methylstyrene / indene copolymers, i.e., hydrogenated copolymers of styrene, methylstyrene and indene.

[0172] In particular, hydrogenated styrene / methylstyrene / indene copolymers, such as those sold by Eastman Chemical under the name Regalite, such as Regalite R1100, Regalite R1090, Regalite R7100, Regalite R1010 hydrocarbon resin and Regalite R1125 hydrocarbon resin can be used.

[0173] The amount of the (a-3-1) indene resin in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 0.01% by mass or more, preferably 0.05% by mass or more, more preferably 0.1% by mass or more based on the total mass of the composition.

[0174] The amount of the (a-3-1) indene resin in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 15% by mass or less, preferably 10% by mass or less, more preferably 5% by mass or less based on the total mass of the composition.

[0175] The amount of the (a-3-1) indene resin in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 0.01% by mass to 15% by mass, preferably 0.05% by mass to 10% by mass, more preferably 0.1% by mass to 5% by mass based on the total mass of the composition.

[0176] (Film-forming polymer) The W / O type cosmetic composition may contain (a-3-2) at least one film-forming polymer. When two or more (a-3-2) film-forming polymers are used, they may be the same or different.

[0177] (a-3-2) The film-forming polymer is different from the (a-3-1) indene resin.

[0178] (a-3-2) The film-forming polymer may be lipophilic and may be present in the (a) fatty phase.

[0179] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polymer" means a compound corresponding to the repetition of one or more units (these units are derived from compounds known as monomers). This or these units are repeated at least twice, preferably at least three times.

[0180] The term "film-forming polymer" means a polymer that can form a film having adhesion and mechanical properties such that, by itself or in the presence of a film-forming aid, a macroscopically continuous film, preferably an adherent film, more preferably an adherent film, for example, on a support, especially on a keratinous substance, is poured, for example, on a non-sticking surface, such as a Teflon®-coated or silicone-coated surface, and the film is separable and operable in the separated state.

[0181] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the (a-3-2) film-forming polymer may be selected from the group comprising: - A film-forming polymer soluble in an organic solvent medium, especially a fat-soluble polymer (this means that the polymer forms a single homogeneous phase when it is soluble or miscible in an organic medium and incorporated into the medium); - A film-forming polymer dispersible in an organic solvent medium (this means that the polymer forms an insoluble phase in the organic medium and maintains stability and / or compatibility when the polymer is incorporated into this medium. In particular, such polymers may be in the form of a non-aqueous dispersion of polymer particles, preferably a dispersion in a silicone-based oil or a hydrocarbon-based oil. In one embodiment, the non-aqueous dispersion of the polymer contains polymer particles stabilized by at least one stabilizer on its surface, and these non-aqueous dispersions are often referred to as "NAD"); and - A film-forming polymer in the form of an aqueous dispersion of polymer particles (which means that the polymer forms an insoluble phase in water, the polymer maintains stability and / or compatibility when incorporated into water, and the polymer particles may be stabilized by at least one stabilizer on their surface. These polymer particles are often referred to as "lattices", and in this case, the composition must contain an aqueous phase).

[0182] Preferably, the (a-3-2) film-forming polymer is selected from the group consisting of polyamide-silicone block polymers, ethylenic block polymers, vinyl polymers containing at least one carboxyoxane dendrimer derivative, copolymers containing carboxylate groups and polydimethylsiloxane groups, silicone resins, oil-dispersible polymers in the form of non-aqueous dispersions of polymer particles, olefin copolymers, amorphous olefin copolymers, and olefin copolymers with controlled moderate crystallization, hydrocarbon resins having a number average molecular weight of 10,000 g / ml or less, and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from silicone resins.

[0183] (a-3-2) The film-forming polymer may be any silicone resin having film-forming properties.

[0184] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the (a-3-2) film-forming polymer may be selected from silsesquioxanes, siloxysilicates, and resins obtained by hydroxysilylation.

[0185] The nomenclature of silicone resins is known in the art by the name of the "MDTQ" nomenclature. According to the "MDTQ" nomenclature, silicone resins are described by the various repeating siloxane monomer moieties that make up the polymer. Each of the letters in "MDTQ" corresponds to a different type of moiety.

[0186] The symbol "M" represents a monofunctional moiety (CH3)3SiO 1 / 2It corresponds to. This part is considered to be monofunctional because the silicon atom shares only one oxygen for chain formation. The "M" part can be represented by the following structure:

[0187] [Chemical formula]

[0188] At least one of the methyl groups may be replaced, thereby, for example, a part having the formula [R(CH3)2]SiO 1 / 2 such as the following structure:

[0189] [Chemical formula]

[0190] (wherein R is other than a methyl group) may occur.

[0191] The symbol "D" corresponds to a difunctional part (CH3)SiO 2 / 2 (wherein two of the available bonds of the silicon atom are used to bond with oxygen for the formation of the polymer chain). The "D" part is an essential component of dimethicone oil and can be represented by the following formula:

[0192] [Chemical formula]

[0193] The symbol "T" corresponds to a trifunctional part (CH3)SiO 3 / 2 (wherein three of the available bonds of the silicon atom are used to bond with oxygen for the formation of the polymer chain). The "T" part can be represented by the following structure:

[0194] [Chemical formula]

[0195] In the case of the "M" moiety, in "D" or "T", any one of the methyl groups may be replaced by an R group other than methyl.

[0196] Finally, the symbol "Q" corresponds to a tetrafunctional moiety SiO 4 / 2 (wherein all four available bonds of the silicon atom are used to bond to oxygen for the formation of the polymer chain). The "Q" moiety can be represented by the following structure:

[0197]

Chemical formula

[0198] As described above, in one embodiment of the present invention, the (a-4) film-forming polymer may be selected from siloxysilicates, silsesquioxanes, and resins obtained by hydroxysilylation. Any siloxysilicate, silsesquioxane, or resin obtained by hydroxysilylation that acts as a film-forming polymer can be used in the composition of the present invention. Preferably, the (a-3-2) film-forming polymer, such as a silicone resin, is crosslinked.

[0199] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the (a-3-2) film-forming polymer may be selected from substituted siloxysilicates, silsesquioxanes, and resins obtained by hydroxysilylation. The substituted siloxysilicate or substituted silsesquioxane may be, for example, a siloxysilicate or silsesquioxane in which a methyl group is replaced by a longer carbon chain, such as an ethane, propane, or butane chain. The carbon chain may be saturated or unsaturated.

[0200] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the (a-3-2) film-forming polymer is a siloxysilicate, for example, the following formula: [(CH3)3SiO 1 / 2 x (SiO 4 / 2 ) y ​(MQ portion) (wherein x and y may have values in the range of 20 to 100, preferably 50 to 80) and may be selected from MQ resins represented by

[0201] According to another embodiment of the present invention, the siloxysilicate may be any combination of M and Q moieties, for example, [(R)3Si] x (SiO 4 / 2 ) y (wherein R is selected from a methyl group and longer carbon chains) and the like.

[0202] According to another embodiment of the present invention, the (a-3-2) film-forming polymer has the following formula: (CH3SiO 3 / 2 ) x (T portion) (wherein x may have a value in the range of up to several thousand, and CH3 may be replaced by R as described hereinabove for the T portion, for example) and may be selected from silsesquioxanes represented by

[0203] Most preferably, the (a-3-2) film-forming polymer is, for example, trimethylsiloxysilicate sold under the name SR 1000 MQ resin by Momentive Performance Materials.

[0204] The amount of the (a-3-2) film-forming polymer in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 1% by mass or more, preferably 3% by mass or more, more preferably 5% by mass or more, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0205] The amount of the (a-3-2) film-forming polymer in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 20% by mass or less, preferably 15% by mass or less, more preferably 10% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0206] The amount of the (α-3-2) film-forming polymer in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 1% by mass to 20% by mass, preferably 3% by mass to 15% by mass, more preferably 5% by mass to 10% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0207] (Water) The W / O type cosmetic composition contains (β-1) water.

[0208] (β-1) Water can be present in the (β) aqueous phase of the W / O type cosmetic composition.

[0209] The amount of (β-1) water in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 5% by mass or more, preferably 10% by mass or more, more preferably 15% by mass or more, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0210] The amount of (β-1) water in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 35% by mass or less, preferably 30% by mass or less, more preferably 25% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0211] The amount of (β-1) water in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 5% by mass to 35% by mass, preferably 10% by mass to 30% by mass, more preferably 15% by mass to 25% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0212] {Optional components for the aqueous phase} (β) The aqueous phase may contain (β-2) at least one optional component. When two or more (β-2) optional components for the (β) aqueous phase are used, they may be the same or different.

[0213] (β-2) The optional component for the (β) aqueous phase can be selected from hydrophilic thickeners, polyols, and mixtures thereof.

[0214] (Hydrophilic thickener) The W / O type cosmetic composition may contain (b-2-1) at least one hydrophilic thickener. When two or more (b-2-1) hydrophilic thickeners are used, they may be the same or different.

[0215] (b-2-1) The hydrophilic thickener is present in the (b) aqueous phase.

[0216] According to the present invention, the "hydrophilic thickener" can increase the viscosity of the (b) aqueous phase, and at room temperature (25 ° C), atmospheric pressure and a shear rate of 1 s -1 (The viscosity may be measured using a cone / plate viscometer, a Haake R600 rheometer, etc.) and introduced into the (b) aqueous phase up to at least 20 cps, preferably up to at least 50 cps.

[0217] (b-2-1) The hydrophilic thickener is preferably selected from non-associative thickening polymers having sugar units, non-associative thickening polymers having no sugar units, associative thickening polymers, and mixtures of these compounds.

[0218] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "sugar unit" means an oxygen-containing hydrocarbon compound containing several alcohol functional groups, having or not having an aldehyde or ketone functional group, and containing at least 4 carbon atoms.

[0219] The sugar unit may be optionally modified by substitution and / or oxidation and / or dehydration.

[0220] The sugar units that may be included in the composition of the hydrophilic thickening polymer of the present invention are preferably the following sugars: glucose, galactose, arabinose, rhamnose, mannose, xylose, fucose, galactose anhydride, galacturonic acid, glucuronic acid, mannuronic acid, galactose sulfate, galactose anhydride sulfate and fructose.

[0221] Examples of non-associative thickening polymers include hyaluronic acid and its salts, such as sodium hyaluronate.

[0222] Among the non - associative thickening polymers having sugar units that can be particularly mentioned are natural rubbers such as the following. a) Extracts from tall or low trees containing the following: - Gum arabic (a branched polymer of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose, and glucuronic acid); - Ghatti gum (a polymer derived from arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose, and glucuronic acid); - Karaya gum (a polymer derived from galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose, and glucuronic acid); - Tragacanth gum (or tragacanth) (a polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose, and arabinose); b) Rubbers obtained from algae containing the following: - Agar (a polymer derived from galactose and anhydrogalactose); - Alginates (polymers of mannuronic acid and glucuronic acid); - Carrageenan and furcelleran (polymers of galactose sulfate and anhydrogalactose sulfate); c) Gums derived from seeds or tubers containing the following: - Guar gum (a polymer of mannose and galactose); - Locust bean gum (a polymer of mannose and galactose); - Kolhaga gum (a polymer of mannose and galactose); - Tamarind gum (a polymer of galactose, xylose, and glucose); - Konjac gum (a polymer of glucose and mannose); d) Microbial gums containing the following: - Xanthan gum (a polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose / pyruvate, and glucuronic acid); - Gellan gum (a polymer of partially acylated glucose, rhamnose, and glucuronic acid); - Scleroglucan gum (a glucose polymer); e) A plant extract containing the following: - Cellulose (a glucose polymer); - Starch (a glucose polymer) and - Inulin.

[0223] These polymers can be physically or chemically modified. As a physical treatment, in particular, the temperature can be raised.

[0224] Examples of chemical treatments that can be cited include esterification, etherification, amidation, and oxidation reactions. These treatments can result in polymers that can be, inter alia, nonionic, anionic, or amphoteric.

[0225] Preferably, these chemical or physical treatments are applied to guar gum, locust bean gum, starch, and cellulose.

[0226] The nonionic guar gum that can be used according to the present invention can be modified using C1-C6 (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups.

[0227] Among the C1-C6 (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups, for example, hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl, and hydroxybutyl groups can be cited.

[0228] These guar gums are well-known in the prior art and may be prepared, for example, by reacting a corresponding alkene oxide, such as propylene oxide, with guar gum to obtain a guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups.

[0229] The degree of hydroxyalkylation preferably varies from 0.4 to 1.2 and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functional groups present in the guar gum.

[0230] Such non-ionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are sold, for example, by Rhodia Chimie under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60 and Jaguar HP120.

[0231] The source plants of the starch molecules that may be used in the present invention can be cereals or tubers. Thus, the starch is selected, for example, from corn starch, rice starch, cassava starch, barley starch, potato starch, wheat starch, sorghum starch and pea starch.

[0232] Starches can be chemically or physically modified, in particular, by one or more of the following reactions: alpha modification, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, etherification, amidation, and heat treatment.

[0233] Diphosphate starch, or compounds rich in diphosphate starch, such as products sold by Avebe under the names Prejel VA-70-T AGGL (gelatinized hydroxypropyl cassava diphosphate starch), Prejel TK1 (gelatinized cassava diphosphate starch), and Prejel 200 (gelatinized acetyl cassava diphosphate starch), or Structure Zea (gelatinized corn diphosphate starch) manufactured by National Starch, will be preferentially used.

[0234] According to the present invention, amphoteric starches can also be used, and these amphoteric starches contain one or more anionic groups and one or more cationic groups. The anionic groups and cationic groups may be attached to the same or different reaction sites of the starch molecule; preferably, they are attached to the same reaction site. The anionic group can be of the carboxyl, phosphate or sulfate type, preferably of the carboxyl type. The cationic group can be of the primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine type.

[0235] The starch molecule can be derived from any plant starch source, such as corn, potato, wheat, rice, tapioca, sorghum, rye or barley. It is also possible to use the hydrolyzates of the starches listed above. The starch is preferably derived from potato.

[0236] The non - associative thickening polymer of the present invention can be a cellulose - based polymer that does not contain C 10 ~C 30 fatty chains.

[0237] According to the present invention, the term "cellulose - based polymer" means any polysaccharide compound having a sequence of glucose residues linked together through β - 1,4 linkages in its structure. In addition to unsubstituted cellulose, cellulose derivatives can be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non - ionic.

[0238] Therefore, the cellulose polymers that may be used according to the present invention may be selected from unsubstituted cellulose in microcrystalline form and cellulose ethers.

[0239] Among these cellulose - based polymers, cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ester ethers are well - known.

[0240] Among cellulose esters, there are inorganic cellulose esters (such as cellulose nitrate, sulfate, phosphate, etc.), organic cellulose esters (such as cellulose monoacetate, triacetate, amide propionate, acetate butyrate, acetate propionate, and acetate trimellitate, etc.), and organic / inorganic mixed esters of cellulose, such as cellulose acetate butyrate sulfate and cellulose acetate propionate sulfate. Among cellulose ester ethers, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose phthalate and ethylcellulose sulfate can be mentioned.

[0241] C 10 ~C30 Among nonionic cellulose ethers that do not contain a fatty chain, i.e., are "non-associative", there are (C1-C4) alkyl celluloses such as methyl cellulose and ethyl cellulose (e.g., Ethocel standard 100 Premium manufactured by Dow Chemical); (poly)hydroxy(C1-C4) alkyl celluloses such as hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose (e.g., Natrosol 250 HHR manufactured by Aqualon) and hydroxypropyl cellulose (e.g., Klucel EF manufactured by Aqualon); (poly)hydroxy(C1-C4) alkyl(C1-C4) alkyl mixed celluloses such as hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose (e.g., Methocel E4M manufactured by Dow Chemical); hydroxyethyl methyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl ethyl cellulose (e.g., Bermocoll E 481 FQ manufactured by Akzo Nobel) and hydroxybutyl methyl cellulose.

[0242] Among anionic cellulose ethers that do not have a fatty chain, there are (poly)carboxy(C1-C4) alkyl celluloses and their salts. Examples include carboxymethyl cellulose, carboxymethyl methyl cellulose (e.g., Blanose 7M manufactured by Aqualon) and carboxymethyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, as well as their sodium salts.

[0243] Among the cationic cellulose ethers without fatty chains, cationic cellulose derivatives, for example, those grafted with water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomers, in particular cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives described in Patent US 4,131,576, such as, in particular, (poly)hydroxy(C1-C4)alkylcelluloses grafted with methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salts, such as hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropylcellulose can be mentioned. Commercially available products corresponding to this definition are, more specifically, products sold under the names Celquat L 200 (registered trademark) and Celquat H 100 (registered trademark) by National Starch.

[0244] Among the non-associative thickening polymers without sugar units that may be used according to the present invention, crosslinked acrylic acid or methacrylic acid homopolymers or copolymers, crosslinked 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymers and their crosslinked acrylamide copolymers, ammonium acrylate homopolymers, or copolymers of ammonium acrylate and acrylamide can be mentioned, either alone or as mixtures thereof.

[0245] A first family of non-associative thickening polymers suitable for use is represented by crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers.

[0246] Among homopolymers of this type, those crosslinked with sugar-based allyl alcohol ethers, for example, products sold under the names Carbopol 980, 981, 954, 2984 and 5984 by Noveon, or products sold under the names Synthalen M and Synthalen K by 3 VSA can be mentioned. These polymers have the INCI name Carbomer.

[0247] Alternatively, the non - associative thickening polymer can be a cross - linked (meth) acrylic acid copolymer, such as the polymer sold under the name Aqua SF1 by Noveon.

[0248] Furthermore, examples of the hydrophilic thickener (b - 2) can include the following: Cross - linked (meth) acrylic acid or (meth) acrylate polymers, preferably cross - linked homopolymers or copolymers of (meth) acrylic acid and / or (meth) acrylate, more preferably sodium cross - linked polyacrylate, such as those sold under the names Octacare X100, X110, and RM100 by Avecia, those sold under the names Flocare GB300 and Flosorb 500 by SNF, those sold under the names Luquasorb 1003, Luquasorb 1010, Luquasorb 1280, and Luquasorb 1100 by BASF, those sold under the names Water Lock G400 and G430 by Grain Processing (INCI name: acrylamide / sodium acrylate copolymer), or Aqua Keep 10 SH NF supplied by Sumitomo Seika Chemical Co., Ltd., or Aqupec MG N40R supplied by Sumitomo Seika Chemical Co., Ltd. (INCI name: sodium carbomer).

[0249] The non - associative thickening polymer can be selected from cross - linked 2 - acrylamido - 2 - methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymers and cross - linked acrylamide copolymers thereof.

[0250] Among the partially or fully neutralized cross - linked copolymers of 2 - acrylamido - 2 - methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylamide, the product described in Example 1 of document EP 503 853 can be particularly mentioned, and reference can be made to said document regarding these polymers.

[0251] The composition may also include, as a non - associative thickening polymer, an ammonium acrylate homopolymer or a copolymer of ammonium acrylate and acrylamide.

[0252] Among the ammonium acrylate homopolymers that can be listed, there is a product sold under the name Microsap PAS 5193 by Hoechst. Among the copolymers of ammonium acrylate and acrylamide that can be listed, there is a product sold under the name Bozepol C Nouveau by Hoechst or product PAS 5193. For the description and preparation of such compounds, reference may be made in particular to FR 2 416 723, US 2,798,053 and US 2,923,692.

[0253] Also, an acrylic - type cationic thickening polymer may be used.

[0254] Also, among the hydrophilic thickening polymers, associative polymers well - known to those skilled in the art, in particular non - ionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric nature, may be mentioned.

[0255] It is recalled that an associative polymer is a polymer that can reversibly associate with each other or with other molecules in an aqueous medium.

[0256] Their chemical structure, in more detail, includes at least one hydrophilic region and at least one hydrophobic region.

[0257] The term "hydrophobic group" means a group or polymer having a saturated or unsaturated linear or branched hydrocarbon - based chain containing at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably 10 - 30 carbon atoms, particularly 12 - 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably 18 - 30 carbon atoms.

[0258] Preferably, the hydrocarbon-based group is derived from a monofunctional compound. As an example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from an aliphatic alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, or decyl alcohol. This may also indicate a hydrocarbon-based polymer, for example, polybutadiene.

[0259] Among the anionic type associative polymers that can be listed are the following: (a) Those containing at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one fatty chain allyl ether unit, more specifically, those whose hydrophilic unit is composed of an ethylenically unsaturated anionic monomer, more specifically, a vinyl carboxylic acid, most specifically, acrylic acid or methacrylic acid or a mixture thereof. Among these anionic associative polymers, those particularly preferred according to the present invention are polymers formed from 20% to 60% by mass of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid, 5% to 60% by mass of lower alkyl (meth)acrylate, 2% to 50% by mass of fatty chain allyl ether, and 0 to 1% by mass of a crosslinking agent, which are well-known copolymerizable unsaturated polyethylene monomers, for example, diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or methylene bisacrylamide. Among the latter polymers, those particularly most preferred are crosslinked terpolymers of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate and polyethylene glycol (10OE) stearyl alcohol ether (Steareth 10), especially those sold under the names Salcare SC80 (registered trademark) and Salcare SC90 (registered trademark) by CIBA, which are aqueous 30% emulsions of crosslinked terpolymers of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate and Steareth 10 allyl ether (40 / 50 / 10).

[0260] (b) i) At least one hydrophilic unit of the unsaturated olefin carboxylic acid type and ii) those containing at least one hydrophobic unit of (C 10 ~C 30 ) alkyl esters of the unsaturated carboxylic acid type. The (C10 ~C 30 ) The alkyl esters include, for example, lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate and dodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate and dodecyl methacrylate. This type of anionic polymer is described and prepared, for example, according to U.S. Patents 3,915,921 and 4,509,949. Among this type of anionic associative polymer that will be used in more detail, 95% to 60% by mass of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 4% to 40% by mass of C 10 ~C 30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit) and 0 to 6% by mass of a crosslinkable monomer, or alternatively, 98% to 96% by mass of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 1% to 4% by mass of C 10 ~C 30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit) and 0.1% to 0.6% by mass of a crosslinkable monomer such as the above-mentioned ones. Among the above polymers, the particularly most preferred ones according to the present invention are products sold under the trade names of Pemulen TR1 (registered trademark), Pemulen TR2 (registered trademark), Carbopol 1382 (registered trademark) by Goodrich, and more preferably products sold under the trade name of Pemulen TR1 (registered trademark), and products sold under the name of Coatex SX (registered trademark) by SEPPIC. Also mentioned can be an acrylic acid / lauryl methacrylate / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymer sold under the name of Acrylidone LM by ISP.

[0261] (c) Maleic anhydride / C 30 ~C 38 α-olefin / alkyl maleate terpolymers, for example, products sold under the name of Performa V1608 (registered trademark) by NewPhase Technologies (maleic anhydride / C 30 ~C 38α-olefin / isopropyl maleate copolymer).

[0262] (d) An acrylic terpolymer comprising the following: i) From about 20% to 70% by weight of an α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid [A], ii) From about 20% to 80% by weight of an α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated non-surfactant monomer other than [A], iii) From about 0.5% to 60% by weight of a non-ionic monourethane which is the product of the reaction of a monoethylenically unsaturated monoisocyanate with a monohydric surfactant, such as those described in patent application EP-A-0 173 109, and more particularly the terpolymer described in Example 3, namely a methacrylic acid / methyl acrylate / behenyl alcohol dimethyl-meth-isopropenylbenzyl isocyanate ethoxylated (40 OE) terpolymer as a 25% aqueous dispersion. (e) Among these monomers, copolymers containing α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acids and esters of α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acids and oxyalkylated aliphatic alcohols. Preferably, these compounds also include esters of α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid esters and C1-C4 alcohols as monomers.

[0263] Examples of this type of compound that can be mentioned are Aculyn 22 (registered trademark) sold by Rohm & Haas, which is a methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / oxyalkylated stearyl methacrylate terpolymer; and Aculyn 88 sold by Rohm & Haas.

[0264] (f) An amphiphilic polymer containing at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer having a sulfonic acid group in free or partially or fully neutralized form and containing at least one hydrophobic moiety. These polymers may or may not be crosslinked. They are preferably crosslinked. The ethylenically unsaturated monomers having a sulfonic acid group are in particular vinylsulfonic acid, styrenesulfonic acid, (meth)acrylamide (C1 - C 22 ) alkylsulfonic acid, N-(C1 - C 22 ) alkyl(meth)acrylamide (C1 - C 22 ) alkylsulfonic acid such as undecylacrylamidomethanesulfonic acid, and their partially or fully neutralized forms, and mixtures thereof.

[0265] (meth)acrylamide (C1 - C 22 ) alkylsulfonic acids, for example acrylamidomethanesulfonic acid, acrylamidoethanesulfonic acid, acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, 2 - acrylamido - 2 - methylpropanesulfonic acid, methacrylamido - 2 - methylpropanesulfonic acid, 2 - acrylamido - n - butanesulfonic acid, 2 - acrylamido - 2,4,4 - trimethylpentanesulfonic acid, 2 - methacrylamidododecylsulfonic acid or 2 - acrylamido - 2,6 - dimethyl - 3 - heptanesulfonic acid, and their partially or fully neutralized forms are more preferentially used.

[0266] 2 - acrylamido - 2 - methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS), and its partially or fully neutralized forms are more particularly used.

[0267] This family of polymers has C6 - C 22Random amphiphilic AMPS polymers modified by reaction with n-monoalkylamines or di-n-alkylamines, such as those described in patent application WO 00 / 31154, may be particularly selected. These polymers may also contain other ethylenically unsaturated hydrophilic monomers selected from, for example, (meth)acrylic acid, their β-substituted alkyl derivatives, or their esters obtained with monohydric alcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glycols, (meth)acrylamide, vinylpyrrolidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid, or maleic acid, or mixtures of these compounds.

[0268] Preferred polymers of this family are selected from amphiphilic copolymers of AMPS and at least one ethylenically unsaturated hydrophobic monomer.

[0269] These same copolymers may also contain one or more ethylenically unsaturated monomers without fatty chains, such as, for example, (meth)acrylic acid, its β-substituted alkyl derivatives, or its esters obtained with monohydric alcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glycols, (meth)acrylamide, vinylpyrrolidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid, or mixtures of these compounds.

[0270] These copolymers are described, inter alia, in patent application EP-A-0 750 899, patent US 5,089,578 and the following publications by Yotaro Morishima: - Self-assembling amphiphilic polyelectrolytes and their nanostructures, Chinese Journal of Polymer Science, Vol. 18, No. 40 (2000), pp. 323 - 336; - Micelle formation of random copolymers of sodium 2-(acrylamido)-2-methylpropanesulfonate and a nonionic surfactant macromonomer in water as studied by fluorescence and dynamic light scattering, Macromolecules, 2000, Vol. 33, No. 10, pp. 3694-3704; - Solution properties of micelle networks formed by nonionic moieties covalently bound to a polyelectrolyte:salt effects on rheological behavior - Langmuir, 2000, Vol. 16, No. 12, pp. 5324-5332; - Stimuli responsive amphiphilic copolymers of sodium 2-(acrylamido)-2-methylpropanesulfonate and associative macromonomers, Polym. Preprint, Div. Polym. Chem., 40(2), (1999), pp. 220-221.

[0271] Among these polymers, mention may be made of: - 15% to 60% by weight of AMPS units and 40% to 85% by weight of (C8 to C 16 ) alkyl (meth)acrylamide or (C8-C 16 ) crosslinked or non-crosslinked, neutralized or non-neutralized copolymers which contain alkyl (meth)acrylate units, such as those described in patent application EP-A-0 750 899; - 10 mol% to 90 mol% acrylamide units, 0.1 mol% to 10 mol% AMPS units, and 5 mol% to 80 mol% n-(C6 to C 18Terpolymers containing alkyl acrylamide units, such as those described in Patent US-5,089,578.

[0272] Also included are copolymers of fully neutralized AMPS and dodecyl methacrylate, as well as crosslinked and non-crosslinked copolymers of AMPS and n-dodecyl methacrylamide, such as those described in the above-mentioned Morishima paper.

[0273] Among the cationic associative polymers, the following may be mentioned. (a) Cationic associative polyurethane; (b) A compound sold by Noveon under the name Aqua CC, corresponding to the INCI name of polyacrylate-1 cross-polymer. Polyacrylate-1 cross-polymer is a polymerization product of a mixture of monomers containing: - Di(C1-C4 alkyl)amino(C1-C6 alkyl) methacrylate, - One or more C1-C 30 alkyl esters of (meth)acrylic acid, - Polyethoxylated C 10 ~C 30 alkyl (20-25 mol ethylene oxide units) methacrylate, - 30 / 5 polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol allyl ether, - Hydroxy(C2-C6 alkyl) methacrylate, and - Ethylene glycol dimethacrylate. (c) Quaternized (poly)hydroxyethyl cellulose modified with a group containing at least one fatty chain such as an alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl group containing at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof. The alkyl groups retained by the above quaternized cellulose or hydroxyethyl cellulose preferably contain 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The aryl group preferably represents a phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl group. C8-C 30Examples of quaternized alkyl hydroxyethyl cellulose containing a fatty chain include products sold by Aqualon, Quatrisoft LM 200 (registered trademark), Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18-A (registered trademark), Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18B (registered trademark) (C 12 alkyl) and Quatrisoft LM-X 529-8 (registered trademark) (C 18 alkyl), products sold by Croda, Crodacel QM (registered trademark), Crodacel QL (registered trademark) (C 12 alkyl) and Crodacel QS (registered trademark) (C 18 alkyl), and products sold by Aqualon, Softcat SL 100 (registered trademark). (d) Cationic polyvinyl lactam polymer.

[0274] Such polymers are described, for example, in patent application WO-00 / 68282.

[0275] As the cationic poly(vinyl lactam) polymer according to the present invention, vinyl pyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide / dodecyl dimethyl methacrylamide propyl ammonium tosylate terpolymer, vinyl pyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide / cocoyl dimethyl methacrylamide propyl ammonium tosylate terpolymer, vinyl pyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide / lauryl dimethyl methacrylamide propyl ammonium tosylate or chloride terpolymer are particularly used.

[0276] The amphiphilic associative polymer is preferably selected from those containing at least one acyclic cationic unit. More specifically, those prepared from or containing 1 to 20 mol%, preferably 1.5 to 15 mol%, more specifically 1.5 to 6 mol% of fatty chain monomers based on the total number of moles of monomers are preferred.

[0277] The amphiphilic associative polymers according to the present invention are described and prepared, for example, in patent application WO 98 / 44012.

[0278] Among the amphiphilic associative polymers according to the present invention, preferred is an acrylic acid / (meth)acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride / stearyl methacrylate terpolymer.

[0279] The nonionic type associative polymers that can be used according to the present invention are preferably selected from the following: (a) Copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone and fatty chain hydrophobic monomers, examples of which that can be listed include the following: - Products Antaron V216 (registered trademark) or Ganex V216 (registered trademark) (vinyl pyrrolidone / hexadecene copolymer) sold by ISP; - Products Antaron V220 (registered trademark) or Ganex V220 (registered trademark) (vinyl pyrrolidone / eicosene copolymer) sold by ISP; (b) Copolymers of C1-C6 alkyl methacrylate or acrylate and an amphiphilic monomer containing at least one fatty chain, for example, an oxyethylenated methyl acrylate / stearyl acrylate copolymer sold by Goldschmidt under the name Antil 208 (registered trademark); (c) Copolymers of hydrophilic methacrylate or acrylate and a hydrophobic monomer containing at least one fatty chain, for example, a polyethylene glycol methacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer; (d) Polyurethane polyethers containing both a hydrophilic block that is usually polyoxyethylene and a hydrophobic block that can be an aliphatic sequence alone and / or a cycloaliphatic and / or aromatic sequence; (e) Polymers having an aminoplast ether main chain containing at least one fatty chain, for example, the Pure Thix (registered trademark) compound sold by Sud-Chemie; (f) Cellulose or its derivatives modified with a group containing at least one fatty chain such as an alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl group or a mixture thereof, etc., wherein the alkyl group has 8 carbon atoms, cellulose or its derivatives, particularly, * Nonionic alkyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, for example, products Natrosol Plus Grade 330 CS and Polysurf 67 sold by Aqualon (C 16 alkyl); * Nonionic nonoxynyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, for example, product Amercell HM - 1500 sold by Amerchol; * Nonionic alkyl cellulose, for example, product Bermocoll EHM 100 sold by Berol Nobel; (g) Associative guar derivatives, for example, hydroxypropyl guar modified with a fatty chain, for example, product Esaflor HM 22 sold by Lamberti (C 22 (modified with an alkyl chain); product Miracare XC 95 - 3 sold by Rhodia Chimie (C 14 (modified with an alkyl chain)) and product RE 205 - 146 (C 20 (modified with an alkyl chain)).

[0280] Preferably, the polyurethane polyether contains at least two hydrocarbon - based lipophilic chains containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by hydrophilic blocks, and the hydrocarbon - based chains may be side chains or end chains of the hydrophilic blocks. In particular, it is possible to assume one or more side chains. In addition, the polymer can contain hydrocarbon - based chains at the end of one side or both sides of the hydrophilic block.

[0281] Polyurethane polyethers can be in the form of multi-blocks, especially triblocks. The hydrophobic blocks can be at each end of the chain (e.g., a triblock copolymer having a hydrophilic central block), or can be distributed at both ends and in the chain (e.g., a multi-block copolymer). These same polymers can also be graft polymers or star polymers.

[0282] Nonionic fatty chain polyurethane polyethers can be triblock copolymers, and their hydrophilic blocks are polyoxyethylene chains containing 50 to 1000 oxyethylene groups. Nonionic polyurethane polyethers contain urethane bonds between the hydrophilic blocks, and thus are the origin of this name.

[0283] In an extended interpretation, what is also included among nonionic fatty chain polyurethane polyethers are those in which the hydrophilic blocks are linked to the lipophilic blocks via other chemical bonds.

[0284] Examples of nonionic fatty chain polyurethane polyethers that may be used in the present invention include Rheolate 205 (registered trademark) having urea functional groups sold by Rheox, or Rheolate (registered trademark) 208, 204 or 212, and Acrysol RM 184 (registered trademark) may also be used.

[0285] Product C manufactured by Akzo 12 ~C 14 Product Elfacos T210 (registered trademark) having an alkyl chain, and 18 Product Elfacos T212 (registered trademark) having an alkyl chain may also be mentioned.

[0286] Product C sold at a solid content of 20% in water 20 Product DW 1206B (registered trademark) manufactured by Rohm & Haas having an alkyl chain and a urethane bond may also be used.

[0287] Also that may be used are solutions or dispersions of these polymers, especially in water or aqueous-alcoholic media. Examples of such polymers that may be listed are Rheolate® 255, Rheolate® 278 and Rheolate® 244 sold by Rheox. Also, products DW 1206F and DW 1206J sold by Rohm & Haas may be used.

[0288] The polyurethane polyethers that can be used according to the present invention are those described especially in the paper by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen - Colloid Polym. Sci., 271, pages 380 - 389 (1993).

[0289] More preferably, there may be used a polyurethane polyether obtainable by polycondensation of at least three compounds including (i) at least one polyethylene glycol containing 150 - 180 mol of ethylene oxide, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol, and (iii) at least one diisocyanate.

[0290] Such polyurethane polyethers are sold especially under the names Aculyn 46® and Aculyn 44® by Rohm & Haas [Aculyn 46® is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, stearyl alcohol, and methylene bis(4 - cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI) in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%) at 15% by mass, and Aculyn 44® is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, decyl alcohol, and methylene bis(4 - cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI) in a mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%) at 35% by mass].

[0291] The amount of the (b-2-1) hydrophilic thickener in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 0.01% by mass or more, preferably 0.05% by mass or more, more preferably 0.1% by mass or more based on the total mass of the composition.

[0292] The amount of the (b-2-1) hydrophilic thickener in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 10% by mass or less, preferably 5% by mass or less, more preferably 1% by mass or less based on the total mass of the composition.

[0293] The amount of the (b-2-1) hydrophilic thickener in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 0.01% by mass to 10% by mass, preferably 0.05% by mass to 5% by mass, more preferably 0.1% by mass to 1% by mass based on the total mass of the composition.

[0294] (Polyol) The W / O type cosmetic composition may contain (b-2-2) at least one polyol. Two or more different types of (b-2-2) polyols may be used in combination.

[0295] The term "polyol" as used herein means an alcohol having two or more hydroxy groups and does not include saccharides or their derivatives. Derivatives of saccharides include sugar alcohols obtained by reducing one or more carbonyl groups of saccharides, and saccharides or sugar alcohols in which at least one hydrogen atom in one or more of their hydroxy groups is replaced by at least one substituent such as an alkyl group, hydroxyalkyl group, alkoxy group, acyl group or carbonyl group.

[0296] The polyol used in the present invention is liquid at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg or 10 5 Pa) and room temperature, for example 25 °C.

[0297] The polyol contains at least two hydroxy groups, preferably 2 to 5 hydroxy groups, and is a C2-C 24 polyol, preferably a C2-C9 polyol.

[0298] The polyol may be a natural polyol or a synthetic polyol. The polyol may have a linear, branched or cyclic molecular structure.

[0299] The polyol may be selected from glycerin, glycol, and mixtures thereof. The polyol may be glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, C6-C 24 It may be selected from the group consisting of polyethylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, and mixtures thereof.

[0300] (b-2-2) The polyol is preferably selected from the group consisting of glycerin, ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.

[0301] The amount of (b-2-2) polyol in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 1% by mass or more, preferably 3% by mass or more, more preferably 5% by mass or more, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0302] The amount of (b-2-2) polyol in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 20% by mass or less, preferably 15% by mass or less, more preferably 10% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0303] The amount of (b-2-2) polyol in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 1% by mass to 20% by mass, preferably 3% by mass to 15% by mass, more preferably 5% by mass to 10% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0304] (Colorant) The W / O type cosmetic composition may contain (c) at least one colorant. When two or more (c) colorants are used, they may be the same or different.

[0305] (c) The colorant may be present in the (a) fatty phase or the (b) aqueous phase depending on the nature of the (c) colorant. Therefore, (c) the colorant may be an optional component (a-3) for the (a) fatty phase or an optional component (b-2) for the (b) aqueous phase depending on the nature of the (c) colorant.

[0306] In one embodiment, (c) the colorant can be selected from dyes, pigments, and mixtures thereof.

[0307] In the present invention, (c) the colorant may be water-soluble or water-dispersible, or oil-soluble or oil-dispersible, or may have a limited solubility in water.

[0308] In one embodiment, (c) the colorant can be selected from coloring pigments.

[0309] The term "coloring pigment" should be understood to mean any shaped inorganic or organic particles, white or colored, that are insoluble and intended to color or stain the skin or lips.

[0310] The pigment can be white or colored, inorganic and / or organic.

[0311] Among the inorganic pigments that can be used, optionally surface-treated titanium dioxide, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, and zinc oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, or metal powders such as aluminum powder or copper powder can be mentioned non-limitingly. The pigments can also be selected from metal oxides such as titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, zirconium oxide, and cerium oxide, and nano-pigments formed from mixtures thereof. The term "nano-pigment" is understood to mean a pigment having an average particle size in the range of 1 nm to 500 nm, for example a particle size in the range of 10 nm to 100 nm.

[0312] Among the organic pigments that can be used, carbon black, D&C type pigments and lakes such as cochineal carmine-based and barium, strontium, calcium, or aluminum-based lakes can be mentioned non-limitingly. For example, Red 33 (disodium 5-amino-4-hydroxy-3-(phenylazo)-naphthalene-2,7-disulfonate) and Red 202 (calcium bis[2-(3-carboxy-2-hydroxynaphthylazo)-5-methylbenzenesulfonate) can be used as D&C type pigments.

[0313] The organic pigment may also be a diketopyrrolopyrrole (DPP) such as those described in EP-A-542669, EP-A-787730, EP-A-787731 and WO-A-96 / 08537.

[0314] The organic pigment may also be selected from biological dyes such as BioChromaDerm (registered trademark) or BioChromaEyes (registered trademark) supplied by Biotic Phocea of France.

[0315] Preferably, the coloring pigment can be selected from metal oxides such as titanium dioxide, zirconium oxide, cerium oxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, and chromium oxide, manganese violet, Prussian blue, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue, aluminum powder, copper powder, carbon black, D&C type pigments, lakes, true pearlescent pigments, and mixtures thereof.

[0316] The term "true pearlescent pigment" should be understood to mean any shaped iridescent particles such as particles produced by certain shells within their shells or otherwise synthesized.

[0317] Pearlescent agents can be selected from white pearlescent agents such as mica coated with titanium dioxide or bismuth oxychloride; colored pearlescent agents such as mica coated with titanium dioxide and then coated with iron oxide, mica coated with titanium dioxide and then coated with ferric blue or chromium oxide, or mica coated with titanium dioxide and then coated with an organic pigment of the above type; and bismuth oxychloride-based pearlescent agents.

[0318] (c) It is preferable that the colorant is selected from hydrophobic pigments.

[0319] Preferably, the hydrophobic pigment is selected from hydrophobic coated pigments. The term "hydrophobic coated pigment" means any pigment coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound. The term "lipophilic compound" means any compound that is soluble or dispersible in oil. The term "hydrophobic compound" means any compound that is insoluble in water.

[0320] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the pigments coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound are selected from inorganic and organic pigments.

[0321] The hydrophobic pigment may have at least one coating containing at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound. This lipophilic or hydrophobic coating can be present on the outermost surface of the hydrophobic pigment.

[0322] For the purposes of the present invention, a "coating" of a pigment generally refers to the overall or partial surface treatment of the pigment using a surface treatment agent that is absorbed, adsorbed, or grafted onto the pigment. Therefore, the hydrophobic pigment may be a surface-treated pigment.

[0323] The surface-treated pigment can be prepared by surface treatment techniques of chemical, electronic, mechanochemical, or mechanical nature, which are well known to those skilled in the art. Commercially available products can also be used as surface-treated pigments.

[0324] The surface treatment agent can be absorbed, adsorbed, or grafted onto the pigment by evaporation of the solvent, chemical reaction, and creation of covalent bonds.

[0325] According to one variant form, the surface treatment is composed of a coating of the pigment.

[0326] The hydrophobic pigment may also have at least one coating containing at least one non-lipophilic or non-hydrophobic compound, for example at least one hydrophilic compound. For example, the non-lipophilic or non-hydrophobic compound can be selected from metal hydroxides such as aluminum hydroxide and metal chlorides such as magnesium chloride. This non-lipophilic or non-hydrophobic coating can be present between the pigment itself and the lipophilic or hydrophobic coating.

[0327] The coating may occupy 0.1% to 20% by mass, specifically 0.5% to 5% by mass, based on the total mass of the coated pigment.

[0328] The coating can be carried out, for example, by simply mixing the particles with the surface treatment agent while stirring, optionally with heating, before incorporating the particles into the other components of the composition used in the present invention, so as to adsorb the liquid surface treatment agent onto the surface of the solid pigment particles.

[0329] The coating can be carried out, for example, by chemically reacting the surface treatment agent with the surface of the solid pigment particles to create a covalent bond between the surface treatment agent and the particles. This method is described in particular in US-B-4,578,266.

[0330] The chemical surface treatment may consist of diluting the surface treatment agent in a volatile solvent, dispersing the pigment in this mixture, and then slowly evaporating the volatile solvent so that the surface treatment agent is deposited on the surface of the pigment.

[0331] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigment can be coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound selected from silicone-based surface treatment agents, fluoro surface treatment agents, fluorosilicone surface treatment agents, metal soaps, fatty acids, N-acyl amino acids or their salts, lecithin and its derivatives, monoalkyl triacyl titanates such as isopropyl triisostearyl titanate, isostearyl sebacate, natural plant or animal waxes, polar synthetic waxes, fatty esters, phospholipids, and mixtures thereof.

[0332] (c) More preferably, the colorant is selected from pigments treated with monoalkyl triacyl titanates. In a preferred embodiment, the pigments suitable for use in the present invention are treated with monoalkyl triacyl titanates, for example, coated or surrounded. Monoalkyl triacyl titanates, also referred to as monoalkyl titanates, can be represented by the formula RO-Ti-(OR')3, where R is an alkyl and R' is an acyl group, which may be the same or different.

[0333] In certain embodiments of the monoalkyl triacyl titanate, the alkyl is C 1~5 alkyl group, specifically C 1~4 alkyl group, and the acyl is derived from acrylic acid or an acrylic acid derivative, such as methacrylic acid, or a fatty acid. The acyl group is particularly C 6~30 fatty acid, more specifically C 12~24 fatty acid, even more specifically C 16~20 derived from fatty acid. Such fatty acids may be capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, hydroxystearic acid, and oleic acid. The acyl groups in these triacyl titanates may be the same or different. A preferred embodiment is monoisopropyl triacyl titanate. See U.S. Patent Application Publication No. 20050019284 (specifically paragraphs

[0038] -

[0052] ).

[0334] According to a preferred embodiment, the monoalkyl triacyl titanate may be isopropyl triisostearoyl titanate (ITT), isopropyl dimethacryloyl isostearoyl titanate, or isopropyl dimethacryloyl isostearoyl titanate.

[0335] Preferably, the monoalkyl triacyl titanate may be isopropyl triisostearoyl titanate (ITT), which may also be referred to as isopropyl titan triisostearate.

[0336] The monoalkyl triacyl titanate-treated pigment may be an isopropyl triisostearoyl titanate-treated pigment.

[0337] The monoalkyltriacyl titanate-treated pigment is a pigment treated with at least monoalkyltriacyl titanate. The monoalkyltriacyl titanate-treated pigment may be treated with only monoalkyltriacyl titanate, or may be treated with monoalkyltriacyl titanate and at least one additional surface treatment agent, such as a fluorinated surface treatment agent or a silicone-based surface treatment agent, such as polydimethylsiloxane and triethoxysilylethylpolydimethylsiloxydiethyl dimethicone.

[0338] For example, an isopropyltriisostearoyl titanate-treated pigment is a pigment treated with at least isopropyltriisostearoyl titanate (ITT). The isopropyltriisostearoyl titanate-treated pigment may be treated with only isopropyltriisostearoyl titanate (ITT), or may be treated with isopropyltriisostearoyl titanate (ITT) and at least one additional surface treatment agent, such as a fluorinated surface treatment agent or a silicone-based surface treatment agent, such as polydimethylsiloxane and triethoxysilylethylpolydimethylsiloxydiethyl dimethicone.

[0339] Examples include pigments treated with isopropyltriisostearyl titanate sold by KOBO under the trade names BWYO-12 (iron oxide CI 77492 and isopropyl titanate triisostearate), BWRO-12 (iron oxide CI 77491 and isopropyl titanate triisostearate), BWBO-12 (iron oxide CI 77499 and isopropyl titanate triisostearate), and / or TiO2CR-50 12 (titanium dioxide CI 77891 coated with alumina and isopropyl titanate triisostearate).

[0340] The amount of the colorant (c) in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 1% by mass or more, preferably 3% by mass or more, more preferably 5% by mass or more, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0341] In the W / O type cosmetic composition, the amount of the (c) colorant may be 20% by mass or less, preferably 15% by mass or less, more preferably 10% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0342] In the W / O type cosmetic composition, the amount of the (c) colorant may be 1% to 20% by mass, preferably 3% to 15% by mass, more preferably 5% to 10% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0343] (Additional optional components) In addition to the above components, the W / O type cosmetic composition may contain components typically used in cosmetics, specifically fillers, cationic, anionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants, UV blockers, or preservatives, etc., within a range that does not impair the effects of the present invention.

[0344] The W / O type cosmetic composition may contain the above optional components in an amount of 0.001% to 30% by mass, preferably 0.01% to 20% by mass, more preferably 0.1% to 10% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0345] [Preparation method] The above W / O type cosmetic composition can be prepared by mixing the above essential components and optional components in a specific method.

[0346] According to the present invention, the W / O type cosmetic composition (1) (a-1) At least one oil, (a-2) At least one crystalline wax melted, and (a-3) At least one optional component for the (a) fatty phase By mixing, a step of preparing a fluid (a) fatty phase, and (2) (b-1) Water, and (b-2) At least one optional component for the (b) aqueous phase By mixing, a step of preparing a fluid (b) aqueous phase, and (3) At a temperature at which the (a-2) crystalline wax does not crystallize, mix the fluid (a) fatty phase with the fluid (b) aqueous phase to obtain a mixture of the fluid (a) fatty phase and the fluid (b) aqueous phase; (4) Cool the mixture obtained in step (3) to prepare a W / O type cosmetic composition; A method comprising: During step (4), the mixture obtained in step (3) can be prepared by a method in which the mixture is subjected to shear stress at least at a temperature at which crystallization of the (a-2) crystalline wax begins.

[0347] In step (1), the (a) fatty phase is prepared by mixing at least (a-1) at least one oil and (a-2) at least one crystalline wax that has already been melted. Optionally, (a-3) at least one optional component for the (a) fatty phase can also be mixed to form the (a) fatty phase. Examples of the (a-3) optional component include, as described above, (a-3-1) indene resin, (a-3-2) film-forming polymer, and mixtures thereof.

[0348] The (a) fatty phase prepared in step (1) is in the form of a fluid such as a liquid.

[0349] Step (1) may be carried out at any temperature as long as the (a) fatty phase is a fluid.

[0350] In one embodiment, step (1) can be carried out at a temperature higher than the melting point of the (a-2) crystalline wax. For example, step (1) can be carried out at 80 °C or higher, preferably 85 °C or higher, more preferably 90 °C or higher. When using two or more crystalline waxes, step (1) should be carried out at a temperature above the highest melting point among the melting points of the crystalline waxes.

[0351] In step (2), the (b) aqueous phase is prepared by mixing at least (b-1) water. Optionally, at least one optional component for the (b) aqueous phase can also be mixed to form the (b) aqueous phase. Examples of the (b-2) optional component include (b-2-1) a hydrophilic thickener, (b-2-2) a polyol, and mixtures thereof.

[0352] The (b) aqueous phase prepared in step (2) is in the form of a fluid such as a liquid.

[0353] Step (2) may also be carried out at any temperature as long as the (b) aqueous phase is a fluid. Step (2) is preferably carried out under elevated temperature. In some preferred cases, step (2) is carried out at 60 °C or higher, preferably 70 °C or higher, more preferably 80 °C or higher.

[0354] In step (3), the (a) fatty phase and the (b) aqueous phase are mixed at a temperature at which the (a-2) crystalline wax does not crystallize to obtain a mixture of the (a) fatty phase and the (b) aqueous phase.

[0355] In one embodiment, step (3) can be carried out at a temperature higher than the crystallization temperature of the (a-2) crystalline wax.

[0356] (a-2) The crystalline wax can form crystals at the crystallization temperature. Therefore, the crystallization of the (a-2) crystalline wax starts at the crystallization temperature. The crystallization temperature can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example, a calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by Mettler.

[0357] In some preferred cases, step (3) is carried out at 60 °C or higher, preferably 70 °C or higher, more preferably 80 °C or higher. In the mixture, the (a) fatty phase can form the continuous phase and the (b) aqueous phase can form the dispersed phase.

[0358] In step (4), the mixture thus obtained in step (3) is cooled to obtain a W / O type cosmetic composition.

[0359] During step (4), the mixture obtained in step (3) is subjected to shear stress at least at the temperature at which the crystallization of the (a-2) crystalline wax starts. Therefore, shear stress can be applied to the above mixture at least at the crystallization temperature of the (a-2) wax.

[0360] The temperature at which the crystallization of the (a-2) crystalline wax starts may be less than 90°C, preferably less than 85°C, more preferably less than 80°C.

[0361] In step (4), it may be preferable to subject the mixture of the (a) fatty phase and the (b) aqueous phase obtained in step (3) to shear stress after the crystallization of the (a-2) crystalline wax has started.

[0362] Also, in step (4), it may be preferable to subject the mixture of the (a) fatty phase and the (b) aqueous phase obtained in step (3) to shear stress even before the crystallization of the (a-2) crystalline wax starts.

[0363] Therefore, it may be preferable to apply shear stress before and / or after the start of the crystallization of the (a-2) crystalline wax. In one embodiment, the shear stress can be applied to the above mixture within a range less than and / or exceeding the crystallization temperature of the (a-2) crystalline wax, for example, ±15°C of the crystallization temperature, preferably ±10°C of the crystallization temperature, more preferably ±5°C of the crystallization temperature. For example, when the crystallization temperature of the (a-2) crystalline wax is 75°C, shear stress can be applied at least at 75°C, and can be applied at 75°C ± 15°C, preferably 75°C ± 10°C, more preferably 75°C ± 5°C.

[0364] The method of applying shear stress is not limited. Any conventional device that generates shear stress can be used.

[0365] For example, in step (4), shear stress can be applied to the mixture of (a) the fat phase and (b) the aqueous phase obtained in step (3) using the following: at least one mechanical device selected from the group consisting of a propeller mixer, a rotor / stator homogenizer, a scraping surface heat exchanger, an extruder, and a static mixer, and / or at least one cavitation device selected from the group consisting of a high-pressure homogenizer and an ultrasonic processor.

[0366] It is preferred to use a device that applies a mild shear stress. An example of such a device is described below.

[0367] Figures 1 and 2 show a longitudinal sectional view and a cross-sectional view, respectively, of such a device 1.

[0368] The device 1 shown in Figures 1 and 2 includes a cylinder 11 that includes a cylindrical space 12. Inside the space 12, there is a rod-shaped rotor 13 along the longitudinal direction of the cylinder 11, and thus, the rotor 13 is rotatable along the central axis of the cylindrical space 12 by a driving force applied by a motor or the like not shown in Figures 1 and 2.

[0369] In the embodiment shown in Figures 1 and 2, the rotor 13 is equipped with two blades 14, 14, which are respectively fixed to the rotor 13 by blade fixtures 15 and extend along the rotor 13. The blades 14, 14 can rotate within the cylindrical space 12 as shown in Figure 2. The number of blades is not limited. In the device 1 shown in Figures 1 and 2, the number of blades is two.

[0370] Each end of the blades 14, 14 is proximate to the inner surface of the cylindrical space 12 so as to form and apply shear stress between the end of the blade 14 and the inner surface of the cylindrical space 12.

[0371] The apparatus 1 shown in FIGS. 1 and 2 is not of the batch type but of the continuous type. Therefore, a mixture of (a) a fatty phase and (b) an aqueous phase can be introduced into the cylindrical space 12 through the inlet 16 and discharged from the outlet 17.

[0372] Within the cylindrical space 12, the mixture of (a) the fatty phase and (b) the aqueous phase can pass through the gap between the end of the blade 14 and the inner surface of the cylindrical space 12, and shear stress can be applied to the mixture when passing through the gap.

[0373] The cylinder 11 preferably has at least one external jacket containing a heat medium or a cooling medium so that the temperature within the cylindrical space 12 can be well controlled. Therefore, the apparatus 1 preferably has at least one sensor for detecting the temperature within the cylindrical space 12 and at least one control means for controlling the temperature within the cylindrical space 12.

[0374] Therefore, the W / O type cosmetic composition can be obtained by applying shear stress to the above mixture at least at the temperature at which the crystallization of (a-2) crystalline wax starts during cooling. In other words, shear stress may be applied to the W / O type cosmetic composition at least at the crystallization temperature of (a-2) crystalline wax.

[0375] Without being bound by theory, it is considered that the application of shear stress when the crystallization of (a-2) crystalline wax starts or at the crystallization temperature of (a-2) crystalline wax can control the formation of seed crystals of (a-2) crystalline wax, thereby forming a uniform distribution of wax crystals having a new network structure that can contribute to softness.

[0376] Therefore, a W / O type cosmetic composition containing a continuous fatty phase and a dispersed aqueous phase can be obtained.

[0377] The method according to the invention may further comprise, after step (3) and before step (4), a step (5) of further mixing at least one additional component with the mixture of (a) the fatty phase and (b) the aqueous phase obtained in step (3). As additional components, there may be mentioned (c) colorants as described above.

[0378] [Form] The composition prepared by the method according to the invention is of the W / O type.

[0379] The composition prepared by the method according to the invention is a W / O type cosmetic composition, preferably a solid W / O type cosmetic composition, more preferably a solid W / O type cosmetic emulsion.

[0380] The composition prepared by the method according to the invention is preferably a wax / water-in-oil type composition, more preferably a wax / water-in-oil type emulsion.

[0381] The composition prepared by the method according to the invention may be a solid W / O type cosmetic emulsion, especially when the composition contains at least one emulsifier such as a surfactant.

[0382] It is preferred that the composition prepared by the method according to the invention is in solid form. The term "solid" as used herein means a non-flowing state at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (101325 Pa).

[0383] The W / O type cosmetic composition prepared by the method according to the invention may have a hardness of less than 5.6 g / mm, preferably less than 5.0 g / mm, more preferably less than 4.4 g / mm.

[0384] The hardness of the composition herein can be evaluated using the "cheese wire" method. This method requires cutting the composition in the form of a stick with a diameter of 9 mm with a metal wire at a speed of 0.16 to 0.19 cm / second at 20 °C and measuring its hardness using a force measuring machine such as Chatillon (trademark) manufactured by Ametek. The hardness obtained by this method can be expressed in grams / mm as the maximum shear force required to cut the stick under the above conditions.

[0385] [Cosmetic use and cosmetic method] The composition prepared by the method according to the present invention is a cosmetic composition, preferably a makeup cosmetic composition, more preferably a lipstick.

[0386] The composition prepared by the method according to the present invention can be used for the cosmetic treatment of keratin substances on the skin and mucous membrane surfaces, such as the lips, etc., preferably for makeup.

[0387] Therefore, the present invention can relate to a cosmetic method for keratin substances such as the skin and lips, which includes the step of applying the composition prepared by the method according to the present invention onto the keratin substance.

[0388] For example, the composition prepared by the method according to the present invention can be used for a cosmetic method for making up keratin substances such as the skin and mucous membrane surfaces, which includes the step of applying the composition onto the keratin substance.

[0389] The composition prepared by the method according to the present invention can impart cosmetic effects such as coloring of keratin substances, particularly makeup effects. Further, the composition prepared by the method according to the present invention can exhibit a long-lasting makeup effect and / or a color transfer prevention effect.

[0390] The present invention also (a) (a-1) at least one oil, and (a-2) At least one crystalline wax a continuous fatty phase containing (b) (b-1) water a dispersed aqueous phase containing Use of shear stress at the crystallization temperature of the (a-2) crystalline wax in the production of a W / O type cosmetic composition, the composition having a hardness of less than 5.6 g / mm, preferably less than 5.0 g / mm, more preferably less than 4.4 g / mm, may also be relevant.

[0391] The present invention also relates to a method for controlling the crystallization of waxes in a W / O type cosmetic composition, preferably a solid W / O type cosmetic composition, more preferably a solid W / O type cosmetic emulsion, containing a continuous fatty phase and a plurality of dispersed aqueous phases, (1) (a-1) At least one oil, (a-2) At least one melted crystalline wax, and (a-3) At least one optional component for the (a) fatty phase preparing a fluid (a) fatty phase by mixing (2) (b-1) water, and (b-2) At least one optional component for the (b) aqueous phase preparing a fluid (b) aqueous phase by mixing (3) Mixing the fluid (a) fatty phase with the fluid (b) aqueous phase at a temperature at which the (a-2) crystalline wax does not crystallize to obtain a mixture of the fluid (a) fatty phase and the fluid (b) aqueous phase, (4) Cooling the mixture obtained in step (3) to form a W / O type cosmetic composition, comprising During step (4), subjecting the mixture obtained in step (3) to shear stress at least at the temperature at which crystallization of the (a-2) crystalline wax starts, also relates to a method.

Examples

[0392] The present invention will be described in more detail by way of examples. However, these examples should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention. The following examples are presented as non-limiting illustrations in the field of the present invention.

[0393] (Example 1 and Comparative Example 1) [Preparation] The compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 in the form of lipsticks were prepared by mixing the components shown in Table 1 below.

[0394] (Example 1) In Example 1, shear stress was applied during cooling from 90°C to 70°C. The detailed procedure is as follows.

[0395] The entire components of the oily phase other than the pigments and volatile oils (isododecane and isohexadecane) in Table 1 were filled into a container, heated to a maximum of 90°C to ensure complete melting, subsequently mixed, and then cooled to 85°C to obtain a premix of the oily phase.

[0396] On the other hand, a premix of the aqueous phase was prepared by mixing all the components of the aqueous phase (those shown in Table 1).

[0397] The premix of the aqueous phase (85°C) was added to the premix of the oily phase, and subsequently mixed so that emulsification was carried out for 10 minutes. Then, the pigments and volatile oils were added to the container and mixed together for 5 minutes to obtain a mixture of the fatty phase and the aqueous phase.

[0398] Next, the thus-obtained mixture was transferred from the above container to the apparatus shown in FIGS. 1 and 2, cooled to 70°C under shear stress using the apparatus at 1,500 rpm, and then discharged from the apparatus at 70°C into a cylindrical mold preheated to 60°C.

[0399] The cylindrical mold was cooled to room temperature (25°C), and the composition according to Example 1 in the form of a lipstick was discharged from the mold.

[0400] (Comparative Example 1) In Comparative Example 1, shear stress was not applied during cooling from 90°C to 70°C. The detailed procedure is as follows.

[0401] The container was filled with all components of the oily phase other than the pigments and volatile oils (isododecane and isohexadecane) in Table 1, heated to a maximum of 90°C to ensure complete melting, subsequently mixed, and then cooled to 85°C to obtain a premix of the oily phase.

[0402] On the other hand, a premix of the aqueous phase was prepared by mixing all components of the aqueous phase (those shown in Table 1).

[0403] The premix of the aqueous phase (85°C) was added to the premix of the oily phase, and subsequently mixed so that emulsification was carried out over 10 minutes. Next, the pigments and volatile oils were added to the container and mixed together for 5 minutes to obtain a mixture of the fatty phase and the aqueous phase.

[0404] Subsequently, the mixture thus obtained was cooled to 70°C without any shear stress, and then discharged from the 70°C container into a cylindrical mold preheated to 60°C.

[0405] The cylindrical mold was cooled to room temperature (25°C), and the composition according to Comparative Example 1 in the form of a lipstick was discharged from the mold.

[0406] [Table 1]

[0407] [Table 2]

[0408] [Evaluation] (Hardness) The hardness of each composition according to Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 was measured at 20 °C using a tester (Chatillon (trademark) DFGHS2 manufactured by Ametek). Here, the composition was in the form of a cylinder with a diameter of 9 mm and was maintained at 20 °C for more than one day before cutting. The hardness was determined as the maximum shear force (g) / mm at a location 1 cm from the end of the cylinder using a metal wire at a speed of 0.16 to 0.19 cm / second at 20 °C when longitudinally cutting the composition.

[0409] The results are shown in the "Hardness" row in Table 2.

[0410] (Static and kinetic friction coefficients / application amount) The static and kinetic friction coefficients of each composition according to Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 were measured at 20 °C by using a tester (HEIDON TRIBOGEAR TYPE 14FW). Here, the composition cut for the above hardness test was used.

[0411] The cut composition was fixed to the tester so that the cross-section exposed by cutting faced a synthetic leather sheet, and the composition was applied onto the synthetic leather sheet with a vertical load of 50 g and a stroke of 8 cm.

[0412] The amount of the composition applied onto the synthetic leather sheet was also measured.

[0413] The results are shown in the rows of "Static friction coefficient", "Kinetic friction coefficient", and "Application amount" in Table 2.

[0414] (Sensory test) Each composition according to Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 was applied to the lips of 4 panelists. The degree of slipperiness, adhesion, soft touch, and melting touch was evaluated by scoring on a scale of 1 to 5. The scores were averaged and classified according to the following criteria. Very good: 4 - 5 Good: 3 - less than 4 Poor: 2 - less than 3 Very poor: 1 - less than 2

[0415] The results are shown in the rows of "Slipperiness", "Adhesion", "Soft feel", and "Melting feel" in Table 2.

[0416] (Microscopic analysis) The compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 were subjected to X-ray CT scanning. Micrographs of the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 are shown in FIGS. 3 and 4, respectively.

[0417] In the binary images shown in FIGS. 3 and 4, the white regions correspond to the regions where wax crystals are present, while the black regions correspond to the regions where no wax is present.

[0418] FIG. 3 shows that the composition according to Example 1 contains wax crystal particles with a high density but a uniform distribution.

[0419] On the other hand, FIG. 4 shows that the composition according to Comparative Example 1 contains wax crystal particles with a low uniformity or a non-uniform distribution.

[0420] (Summary) The composition according to Example 1, which corresponds to the W / O type cosmetic composition prepared by the method according to the present invention, contained a relatively large amount of wax but showed excellent softness.

[0421] Furthermore, the composition according to Example 1 had a low coefficient of friction, resulting in a larger application amount of the composition during application, thereby contributing to a smooth application and sufficient adhesion of the applied amount.

[0422] Furthermore, the composition according to Example 1 also showed excellent usability in terms of smooth slipperiness, appropriate adhesion of the composition, soft feel, and melting feel.

[0423] The composition according to Comparative Example 1, which does not correspond to the W / O type cosmetic composition prepared by the method according to the present invention, showed inferior softness, a high coefficient of friction, a smaller application amount of the composition during application, and poor usability.

Explanation of symbols

[0424] 1 Device 11 Cylinder 12 Cylindrical Space 13 Rotor 14 Blade 15 Blade Fixture 16 Inlet 17 Outlet

Claims

1. A method for preparing a W / O type cosmetic composition, preferably a solid W / O type cosmetic composition, more preferably a solid W / O type cosmetic emulsion, comprising a continuous fatty phase and a plurality of dispersed aqueous phases, comprising: (1) (a-1) at least one oil, (a-2) at least one melted crystalline wax, and (a-3) at least one optional component for the fatty phase by mixing to prepare a fluid (a) fatty phase; (2) (b-1) water, and (b-2) at least one optional component for the aqueous phase by mixing to prepare a fluid (b) aqueous phase; (3) mixing the fluid (a) fatty phase with the fluid (b) aqueous phase at a temperature at which the (a-2) crystalline wax does not crystallize to obtain a mixture of the fluid (a) fatty phase and the fluid (b) aqueous phase; (4) cooling the mixture obtained in step (3) to prepare a W / O type cosmetic composition; comprising, during step (4), subjecting the mixture obtained in step (3) to shear stress at least at a temperature at which crystallization of the (a-2) crystalline wax begins.

2. The method according to claim 1, wherein the temperature at which crystallization of the (a-2) crystalline wax begins is less than 90 °C, preferably less than 85 °C, more preferably less than 80 °C.

3. The method according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the mixture obtained in step (3) is subjected to shear stress after crystallization of the (a-2) crystalline wax has begun during step (4).

4. The method according to claim 3, wherein the mixture obtained in step (3) is subjected to shear stress before crystallization of the (a-2) crystalline wax has begun during step (4).

5. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the shear stress is applied to the mixture obtained in step (3) using at least one mechanical device selected from the group consisting of a propeller mixer, a rotor / stator homogenizer, a scraping surface heat exchanger, an extruder, and a static mixer.

6. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the shear stress is applied to the mixture obtained in step (3) using at least one cavitation device selected from the group consisting of a high-pressure homogenizer and an ultrasonic processor.

7. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 6, further comprising a step (5) of further mixing at least one additional component with the mixture obtained in step (3) after step (3) and before step (4).

8. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the W / O type cosmetic composition has a hardness of less than 5.6 g / mm, preferably less than 5.0 g / mm, more preferably less than 4.4 g / mm.

9. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the amount of the oil (a-1) in the W / O type cosmetic composition is 15% by mass to 45% by mass, preferably 20% by mass to 40% by mass, more preferably 25% by mass to 35% by mass based on the total mass of the composition.

10. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the amount of the crystalline wax (a-2) in the W / O type cosmetic composition is 12% by mass or more, preferably 13% by mass or more, more preferably 14% by mass or more based on the total mass of the composition.

11. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein the amount of the crystalline wax (a-2) in the W / O type cosmetic composition is 12% by mass to 30% by mass, preferably 13% by mass to 25% by mass, more preferably 14% by mass to 20% by mass based on the total mass of the composition.

12. (a-2) The crystalline wax contains (a-2-1-1) a non-polar crystalline wax having a melting point of 80°C or higher, (a-2-1-2) a non-polar crystalline wax having a melting point of less than 80°C, and (a-2-2) a polar crystalline wax. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 11, wherein the amount of the non-polar crystalline wax (a-2-1-1) having a melting point of 80°C or higher is 40% by mass or more, preferably 50% by mass or more, more preferably 60% by mass or more based on the total mass of the non-polar crystalline wax (a-2-1-1) having a melting point of 80°C or higher, the non-polar crystalline wax (a-2-1-2) having a melting point of less than 80°C, and the polar crystalline wax (a-2-2).

13. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 12, wherein the amount of water (b-1) in the W / O type cosmetic composition is 5% by mass to 40% by mass, preferably 10% by mass to 35% by mass, more preferably 15% by mass to 30% by mass based on the total mass of the composition.

14. A W / O type cosmetic composition, preferably a makeup cosmetic composition, more preferably a lipstick, prepared by the method according to any one of claims 1 to 13.

15. A method for controlling the crystallization of waxes in a W / O type cosmetic composition, preferably a solid W / O type cosmetic composition, more preferably a solid W / O type cosmetic emulsion, which comprises a continuous fatty phase and a plurality of dispersed aqueous phases, comprising: (1) (a-1) at least one oil, (a-2) at least one crystalline wax that has been melted, and (a-3)(a) at least one optional component for the fatty phase to prepare a fluid (a) fatty phase by mixing; (2) (b-1) water, and (b-2)(b) at least one optional component for the aqueous phase to prepare a fluid (b) aqueous phase by mixing; (3) mixing the fluid (a) fatty phase with the fluid (b) aqueous phase at a temperature at which the (a-2) crystalline wax does not crystallize to obtain a mixture of the fluid (a) fatty phase and the fluid (b) aqueous phase; (4) cooling the mixture obtained in step (3) to form a W / O type cosmetic composition; comprising a method, wherein during step (4), the mixture obtained in step (3) is subjected to shear stress at least at a temperature at which crystallization of the (a-2) crystalline wax starts.

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