Cosmetic composition containing natural resin

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising at least one volatile oil, at least one volatile alcohol, at least one natural resin, and at least one modified polysaccharide in a physiologically acceptable medium; and to the use of such a composition for improving the persistence and / or resistance to friction without increasing the adhesion effect of the film obtained by applying the composition to a keratinous material.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising at least one natural resin, at least one volatile oil, at least one volatile alcohol, and at least one modified polysaccharide in a specific mass ratio. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method of applying such a cosmetic composition to a keratinous substance, particularly a human keratinous substance such as skin, hair or eyelashes.

Background Art

[0002] Cosmetic products often require the use of film-forming polymers so that the product forms a deposit having good cosmetic properties on the keratinous substance. It is necessary that the film-forming deposit has good persistence, that the deposit does not move during contact with fingers or clothing, that it has good resistance to contact with water, particularly rain or shower, and that the deposit is not easily affected by sweating or sebum, and dietary fats such as food fats, particularly oils.

[0003] Dispersions of polymers, generally acrylic particles, in organic media such as hydrocarbon oils are commonly used as film-forming agents in makeup products such as mascara, eyeliner, eyeshadow or lipstick. Silicone-based resins are also used for the purpose of improving the persistence of cosmetics. These dispersions are not always satisfactory with respect to resistance to fatty substances, particularly dietary fats or sebum, and may, for example, limit their use in lip makeup.

[0004] In addition, the field of cosmetic formulations is changing rapidly. Consumers expect a greater use of natural products and need to be reassured regarding the components in cosmetic formulations, particularly with regard to their harmlessness, their low environmental footprint, their origin, or other renewable properties thereof. In recent years, replacing synthetic polymers, particularly silicones, in cosmetic formulations has become a major challenge.

[0005] Several natural resins, such as rosin (colophony resin), have already been considered as the adhesion - imparting resin. This is inevitably combined with a high proportion of silicone resin, for example, to enhance the gloss and good durability of lip makeup (Patent Document 1). However, (Patent Document 2) discusses some problems encountered with such components. As the amount of silicone resin increases, loss of flexibility of the cosmetic film is often observed; the greater the amount of rosin, the more the adhesive effect of the cosmetic film is manifested. This results in a "heavy", thick or set makeup feeling.

[0006] Consumers are accustomed to certain sensory characteristics and textures, such as those of silicone and synthetic polymer fillers. For this reason, cosmetic chemists have the following dual challenges: on the one hand, silicone resins and synthetic polymers are being gradually replaced by more natural starting materials or starting materials of more natural origin in terms of naturalness, and on the other hand, more natural formulations must have performance and sensory properties such that they have at least equivalent efficacy and sensory characteristics to those of the less natural formulations they intend to replace.

[0007] Finally, there remain technical challenges in successfully formulating natural resins that are solid at ambient temperature (25°C) into cosmetics with a fluid - liquid texture. Typically, natural resins are said to be soluble in chlorinated solvents or benzene compounds, or large amounts of alcohol. Such solvents cannot be considered for cosmetic use, especially for skin care or makeup of the skin, particularly the lips, as even ethanol above a certain content can cause discomfort, dryness, irritation or a burning sensation on the skin. Therefore, the present invention also aims to enable and simplify the preparation of a cosmetic composition that provides improved durability based on components in a medium that is as natural as possible and acceptable as a cosmetic.

[0008] In particular, the object of the present invention is that the remaining film after application adheres well to keratinous substances, is elastic, shows as little fragmentation as possible and as little detachment from the substrate as possible, is not sticky, has good persistence against external attack factors such as friction, is resistant to sweat and sebum, and is relatively less reactive to oils such as edible oils, and to provide a cosmetic composition.

[0009] The inventors have surprisingly found that a specific combination of a volatile alcohol and a volatile oil enables the effective solubilization of natural resins including semi-solid and solid natural resins at ambient temperature (25°C), thereby enabling, in combination with a modified polysaccharide, the obtaining of a cosmetic composition in which the film obtained after application exhibits both particularly high friction resistance and non-stickiness after drying.

Prior art documents

Patent documents

[0010]

Patent Document 1

Patent Document 2

Summary of the invention

Means for solving the problems

[0011] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition (A) comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium: a - at least one volatile oil, b - at least one volatile alcohol, c - at least one natural resin, and d - at least one modified polysaccharide.

[0012] Preferably, the mass ratio of the total amount of the volatile oil and the volatile alcohol to the amount of the natural resin is greater than 1.

[0013] Preferably, the present invention relates to a physiologically acceptable medium containing: a - at least one volatile oil, b - at least one volatile alcohol, c - at least one natural resin, and d - contain at least one modified polysaccharide, where: - The mass ratio of the amount of volatile oil to the amount of natural resin is greater than 0.5, preferably greater than 1; and / or - The mass ratio of the amount of volatile alcohol to the amount of natural resin is greater than 0.5, preferably greater than 1, relating to a cosmetic composition (A).

[0014] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium at least one oily phase of the composition (A) as defined above. The oily phase of the present invention is preferably continuous.

[0015] The present invention also relates to a method for coating keratinous substances, more particularly a method for making up and / or caring for keratinous substances such as the skin, characterized by comprising the application of the composition defined by the present invention to the keratinous substances.

[0016] The present invention further relates to the use of the composition defined by the present invention for improving the persistence of the said film on the skin and / or its resistance to friction without increasing the adhesion effect of the cosmetic film obtained by applying the said composition to keratinous substances.

Embodiments for Carrying Out the Invention

[0017] For the purposes of the present invention, and unless otherwise indicated, the term "keratinous substance" means the skin, mucous membranes and / or skin appendages. Preferably, the keratinous substances are the skin, particularly facial skin, mucous membranes such as the lips, and / or skin appendages such as eyelashes.

[0018] The compositions according to the present invention can be cosmetic compositions or dermatological compositions. They are preferably cosmetic compositions.

[0019] The composition according to the invention contains a physiologically acceptable medium.

[0020] In the present invention, the term "physiologically acceptable medium" means a non-toxic medium that is compatible with keratinous substances, in particular human skin (including the inner eyelid), mucous membranes, hair or lips. A cosmetic composition is a product that has a pleasant appearance, odor and feel and is intended for topical application.

[0021] The term "anhydrous composition" means a composition that contains less than 5% by weight of water, preferably less than 1% by weight of water, and even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight of water, particularly a composition that does not contain water, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0022] The term "volatile substance" means any substance that can evaporate upon contact with the skin in less than 1 hour at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile substance is liquid at ambient temperature and in particular has a vapor pressure in the range of 2.66 Pa or more, preferably 2.66 Pa to 40,000 Pa, preferably 2.66 Pa to 13,000 Pa, preferably 2.66 Pa to 1300 Pa, at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure.

[0023] The vapor pressure can be measured according to a static method or by an effusion method by isothermal thermogravimetry (OCDE standard 104), depending on the vapor pressure of the oil.

[0024] The term "soluble or solubilized compound" means a compound that can dissolve in or is miscible with a liquid and forms only one homogeneous phase when incorporated into the liquid.

[0025] The term "natural compound" means, where appropriate, a compound that is obtained directly from the earth or soil, in particular from plants, via one or more physical processes, in particular physical extraction processes such as grinding, purification, distillation, refining or filtration.

[0026] The term "naturally derived compound" means a natural compound that has been subjected to one or more additional chemical or industrial processes and has undergone modifications that do not affect the essential qualities of the compound, and / or a compound mainly comprising natural constituents that may or may not have undergone the above-described conversions.

[0027] This conversion / process uses environmentally friendly processes and does not contain substances harmful to the environment, in accordance with the principles of green chemistry.

[0028] Non-limiting examples of additional chemical or industrial processes that result in modifications that do not affect the basic properties of natural compounds include those permitted by regulatory bodies such as Ecocert (Reference system for biological and ecological cosmetic products, January 2003) or those defined in recognized handbooks in the art such as "Cosmetics and Toiletries Magazine", 2005, volume 120, 9:10.

[0029] The expressions "from... to..." and "in the range of... to..." should be understood to mean that the limit points are included, unless otherwise specified.

[0030] The expressions "at least one" and "one or more" are synonymous and can be used interchangeably.

[0031] In the description and examples, unless otherwise indicated, contents and percentages are mass percentages. Accordingly, percentages are expressed by mass relative to the total mass of the composition. Ratios are also mass ratios. Temperatures are expressed in degrees Celsius and pressures are at atmospheric pressure, unless otherwise indicated.

[0032] Composition (A) - oily phase According to a first aspect, the subject matter of the present invention is a composition as defined above.

[0033] The Applicant has surprisingly observed that the composition A of the present invention, which contains natural resins, in particular dissolved natural resins, in a specific mixture of volatile oils and volatile alcohols as defined below, in combination with a modified polysaccharide, has improved persistence, makes it possible to obtain a film that is resistant to friction after the film has dried, and is non-sticky.

[0034] Natural resin Resins are generally defined as solid, highly viscous or liquid substances of plant or synthetic origin. Resins have several properties characteristic of resins, such as: - The ability to cure permanently under the influence of temperature for synthetic resins, for example, and under the influence of oxygen for natural resins; - Insolubility in water and, in particular, good adhesiveness and adhesive properties.

[0035] Standard ISO4618:2014 (fr) defines resin as "a generally amorphous macromolecular product having a consistency ranging from a solid state to a liquid state". Natural resins are substantially of plant origin only (fossil or harvested) and are then secreted by plants for their role in defense, protection and communication within their ecosystem. The exception to this is shellac, which is of animal origin and is secreted by the insect Coccus lacca.

[0036] For the purposes of the present invention, "natural resin", in particular "plant resin", means any substance containing a minimum content of terpene compounds, i.e. at least 30% by mass of terpene compounds relative to the total mass of the substance(s) in question, as chemically defined below, said substance being derived directly or indirectly from the secretion and exudation of substances for the purpose of defense, protection and communication with their ecosystem, mainly by plants (and more rarely by animals).

[0037] Advantageously, the natural resins according to the present invention are insoluble in water at ambient temperature (unlike, for example, latex or gum).

[0038] Natural resins are also considered to be natural adhesives that have the inherent ability to polymerize consistently and predictably on their own without using synthetic chemistry. Preferably, the natural resin used in the composition according to the invention has a number average molecular weight of 10,000 g / mol or less. The resin preferably has a number average molecular weight in the range of 10,000 g / mol or less, particularly in the range of 250 to 10,000 g / mol, preferably 5,000 g / mol or less, particularly in the range of 250 to 5,000 g / mol, more preferably 2,000 g / mol or less, particularly in the range of 250 to 2,000 g / mol, even more preferably 1,000 g / mol or less, particularly in the range of 250 to 1,000 g / mol. The number average molecular weight (Mn) is determined by gel permeation liquid chromatography (THF solvent, calibration curve established with linear polystyrene standards, refractive index detector).

[0039] Thermal properties Advantageously, the resin according to the invention is characterized by having a softening point which indicates the transition temperature from a pseudo-solid state to a plastic state during heating.

[0040] Preferably, the resin of the present invention has a softening point in the range of 20 °C to 150 °C, more preferably in the range of 30 °C to 100 °C, even more preferably in the range of 40 °C to 90 °C.

[0041] The softening point is the temperature at which the product reaches a certain degree of softening under standardized conditions. This indicates the transition temperature from a pseudo-solid state to a plastic state during heating. This can be measured for the resin by the ring-and-ball method (or RBT, ring and ball temperature) according to standard ASTM E284.

[0042] Depending on the type, some of the resins according to the invention can also preferably have a melting temperature of less than 360 °C, more preferably less than 190 °C, even more preferably less than 90 °C. According to a preferred form of the present invention, the resin does not have a melting temperature.

[0043] The melting point (or melting temperature) of a substance at a given pressure corresponds to the temperature at which the liquid and solid states of this substance can coexist in an equilibrium state.

[0044] Preferably, the resin of the present invention preferably has a glass transition temperature in the range of 0 °C to 200 °C, more preferably 10 °C to 100 °C, even more preferably 20 °C to 90 °C, and even more preferably 30 °C to 70 °C.

[0045] The glass transition temperature (Tg) of a material represents the temperature range in which the material transitions from a rubbery state to a glassy solid (rigid) state. The thermal properties, particularly the Mp and Tg of a resin, can be measured by DSC (differential scanning calorimetry), for example, by a DSC8000 apparatus manufactured by Perkin Elmer, according to the following: - Protocol 1: Determination of the melting temperature Mp and the crystallization temperature Tc: Starting material alone or solubilized / dispersed in a solvent, stainless steel dish, sweeping from 5 °C to 90 °C, sweeping rate 5 °C / min-1. - Protocol 2: Determination of the glass transition temperature Tg: Measurement during the second heating. Use an aluminum dish (40 μl) containing the starting material and perform a temperature sweep from -100 °C to 150 °C (with isotherms) to observe the glass transition temperature. The applied temperature gradient is 10 °C / min with respect to the glass transition temperature (2 cycles).

[0046] Botanical definition of resin: Natural resins of plant or animal origin have been conventionally defined by Ullmann‘s Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry, “Resins,Synthetic” 2012 Wiley-VCH Verlag GmbH&Co.KGaA,Weinheim, DOI:10.1002 / 14356007.a23_089.pub2.

[0047] Natural resins can be classified according to their botanical aspects. Resins can be derived from gymnosperms (naked seeds) and angiosperms (covered seeds); the latter are subdivided into monocots (having one cotyledon) and dicots (having two cotyledons). They can also be selected according to their physical and chemical properties. Examples of natural resins include, in particular, rosin (tall oil rosin, wood or gum derived from exudates of trees and plants; wood extracts; or by-products from paper manufacturing), fossil resins such as amber; extracted resins such as asphaltite; shellac such as those produced by insect secretions; and their main derivatives.

[0048] The resin of the present invention is preferably of plant origin, particularly derived from plants or trees. Fossil resins are (hard and semi-hard) resins collected from the ground where ancient forests that once disappeared stood. Some of them are no longer known for sure. Some fossil resins have undergone significant changes in their chemical structure due to aging or maturation that may have taken thousands of years. The transition from fossil resins to recent resins can be various. They can include, for example, resins found in fossilized form and collected from living plants. Semi-fossil varieties are collected at the base of the trees that produced them (Ullmann‘s Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry, “Resins, Natural” 2012 Wiley-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co. KGaA, Weinheim, DOI: 10.1002 / 14356007.a23_073) (Techniques de l‘Ingenieur [Engineering Techniques], “Resines Naturelles” [Natural Resins], 1982 Bernard Delmond).

[0049] The resins collected are recent (soft). They are all collected from living plants. Depending on their composition, they are subdivided as follows: - Oleoresins: natural solutions of resins in essential oils; - Balsam: A resin characterized by a high proportion of benzoic acid and cinnamic acid and their esters; - Gum: A resin essentially composed of polysaccharides; - Gum-resin: A mixture of a resin and a hydrophilic gum; - Latex: A milky white composition of organic substances dispersed in an aqueous medium: (Techniques de l‘Ingenieur [Engineering Techniques], “Resines Naturelles” [Natural Resins], 1982 Bernard Delmond).

[0050] Among the resins of the present invention, especially in recent years, resins soluble in oil and / or alcohol are more preferred than water-soluble forms such as latex or gum.

[0051] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the resins of the present invention are harvested resins; since these are self-renewable, they are particularly beneficial from an ecological point of view.

[0052] Preferably, the resins of the present invention are recent ones. Advantageously, the resins used according to the present invention depend on resources that do not compete with those for food applications. Advantageously, the resins used in the compositions of the present invention are derived from the recycling of by-products of the paper industry.

[0053] Chemical definition of resin Chemically, natural resins are complex mixtures of several classes of compounds, the presence and content of which define the resin glass (oleoresin, balsam, gum, etc.): essential oils, neutral and acidic components, and polysaccharides (present only in gums).

[0054] The components characterizing the resin are the terpene compounds it contains, preferably in a content of at least 30% by mass relative to the mass of the resin. The "terpene compound" means terpenes, hydrocarbons formed from isoprene having the general formula (C5H8)n, and numerous derivatives thereof (alcohols, aldehydes, ketones, acids, etc.) containing a terpene structure (Academie de Montpellier. The resins: https: / / tice.ac-montpellier.fr / ABCDORGA / Famille / Terpenes.html).

[0055] Among terpene hydrocarbons, the following are distinguished: monoterpenes with the empirical formula C10H16 (n = 2), sesquiterpenes with the empirical formula C15H24 (n = 3), diterpenes (C20H32) (n = 4), sesterterpenes (C25H40) (n = 5), triterpenes (C30H48) (n = 6), tetraterpenes (C40H64) (n = 8) and other polyterpenes. Some have an acyclic structure; they contain several double bonds corresponding to their empirical formula: 3 for C10H16; 5 for C20H32; 7 for C30H48. Others have one or more rings, so the number of double bonds decreases, for example, for C10H16, it has one ring and two double bonds, or two rings and one double bond.

[0056] Advantageously, the resin of the present invention contains at least 30% by mass, preferably at least 40% by mass, preferably at least 50% by mass, even more preferably at least 60% by mass, even more preferably at least 70% by mass of terpene compounds, based on the total mass of the resin or resinous substance used as the starting material in the composition according to the present invention. Monoterpene compounds and sesquiterpene compounds are mainly volatile compounds, for example, constituting essential oils. Polyterpene compounds derived from terpenes with n of 4 or more (for example, derivatives of diterpenes and triterpenes) are resinous compounds with fairly solid properties.

[0057] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the resin contains at least 10% by mass, preferably at least 20% by mass, preferably at least 30% by mass, preferably at least 35% by mass of a polyterpene compound, that is, a compound derived from a terpene in which n is 4 or more, based on the total mass of the resin representing 100%. Therefore, a resin having a fraction that is solid at ambient temperature (25 °C) is preferred. Conveniently, the resin used according to the present invention is not volatile.

[0058] Conveniently, the polyterpene compound of the resin or resinous substance used in the composition of the present invention is mainly (up to a mass exceeding 50% of the total mass of the polyterpene) obtained from diterpenes and / or triterpenes.

[0059] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the resin contains less than 70% by mass of a monoterpene compound or sesquiterpene compound, that is, a compound derived from a terpene in which n is less than 4, based on the total mass of the resin representing 100%; preferably, the resin contains less than 60% by mass, preferably less than 50% by mass, preferably less than 30% by mass, preferably less than 15% by mass of a monoterpene compound or sesquiterpene compound derived from a terpene, where n is less than 4. Therefore, for the composition of the present invention, it is not very effective regarding the persistence of the cosmetic film, and it is preferable to limit the use of the most volatile resins.

[0060] A non-exhaustive list of terpene compounds that may be included in the natural resin of the present invention has been created. This lists the families of terpene compounds subdivided based on the characteristic groups (alcohol functional group, ketone functional group, acid functional group, etc.) of each compound (listed below).

[0061] Examples of monoterpene compounds Conveniently, the resin's monoterpene compounds are selected from α-pinene, β-pinene, 3-carene, camphene, dipentene, P-cymene, B-myrcene, α-farnesene, sabinene, α-thujene, limonene, octyl ethanoate, neryl ethanoate, bornyl ethanoate, geranyl ethanoate, α-terpineol, cineol, linalool, borneol, its derivatives, and mixtures thereof.

[0062] Examples of sesquiterpene compounds Conveniently, the resin's sesquiterpene compounds are: α-copaene, β-caryophyllene, β-bisabolene, β-guaiene, α-guaiene, allo-aromadendrene, β-bulbonene, δ-cadinene, α-guaiene, α-elemene, β-elemene, d-elemene, α-copaene, α-selinene, β-selinene, β-bulbonene, lindesrene, furanoeudesma-1,3-diene, α-cubebene, farnesol, α-elemole, viridiflorol, t-cadinol, β-elemole, germacrone, curzerenone, its derivatives, and mixtures thereof.

[0063] Examples of diterpene compounds Conveniently, the resin's diterpene compounds are: abietic acid, pimaric acid, sandaracopimaric acid, common acid, levopimaric acid, palustric acid, isopimaric acid, dehydroabietic acid, neoabietic acid, agathic acid, sylvane A, sylvane C, isosylvane, versilal-4(20),7,11-triene, incensol, totarol, sandaracopimarinal, sylvaneol, its derivatives, and mixtures thereof.

[0064] Examples of triterpene compounds Conveniently, the resin's triterpene compounds are: Selected from 3β,20(S)-dihydroxydammar-24-ene, dammarenolic acid, dammar dienone, hydroxydammarenone (I or II), dammarenediol I (or II), dammadiol, 11-keto-β-boswellic acid (KBA), 11-keto-β-boswellic acid acetate (AKBA), β-boswellic acid, ursolic acid, mangiferonic acid, benzoic acid, ursol aldehyde, α-amyrone, α-amyrin, β-amyrin, uvaol, oleanolic acid, oleanonic acid, moronic acid, oleanone aldehyde, acetyl-lupeolic acid, lupeolic acid, lupeol betulonal, hydroxyhopanone, its derivatives and mixtures thereof.

[0065] According to a first embodiment of the present invention, the resin used according to the present invention contains at least one diterpene compound, preferably a diterpene compound derived from abietic acid which is natural or chemically modified. Preferably, the diterpene compound, particularly the diterpene compound derived from abietic acid, is present in the resin with a mass content of at least 20%, preferably at least 30%, and even more preferably at least 40% based on the total mass of the natural resin.

[0066] Colophony resins such as rosinates containing such diterpene compounds can be particularly mentioned.

[0067] According to a second embodiment of the present invention, as a first alternative or actually in addition to the first embodiment, the resin used according to the present invention preferably contains at least one triterpene compound selected from the following triterpene compounds: α-amyrin, β-amyrin, α-amyrone, β-amyrone, dammadi-enone, dammadiol, ursol aldehyde, hydroxyhopanone, oleanone aldehyde, ursolic acid, oleanonic acid, oleanolic acid and mixtures thereof.

[0068] The total content of triterpene compounds in the resin used according to the present invention, particularly the content of the triterpene compounds preferred above, is advantageously at least 10% by mass, preferably at least 20% by mass, even more preferably at least 30% by mass, preferably at least 35% by mass, based on the total mass of the natural resin.

[0069] Particular mention can be made of frankincense resin k), Protium heptaphyllum or Shorea robusta containing such triterpene compounds.

[0070] The chemical composition of the resin can be analyzed by conventional techniques known to those skilled in the art, such as gas chromatography GC analysis, chromatographic analysis using flame ionization detection called GC-FID, or GC / MS analysis, which preferably uses a mass spectrometer coupled to a gas chromatograph: by GC-FID.

[0071] The following paper mentions these general methods: “Developpements methodologiques en TLC / MALDITOF MS et GC / MS pour l’analyse des composes terpenoides presents dans les resines vegetales” [Methodological developments in TLC / MALDITOF MS and GC / MS for the analysis of terpenoid compounds present in plant resins], https: / / tel.archives-ouvertes.fr / tel-01581308.

[0072] Definition according to the origin of the resin: Conveniently, the natural resins according to the present invention are selected from: a) alkaloid resins, b) amber, c) asphaltite and zirconite, d) Peru balsam, e) Tolu balsam, f) benzoin resin, g) Canada balsam, h) copal resins (in particular, kauri copal resin, copal resin from Manila, West African copal such as Congolese, Angolan or Cameroonians copal, East African copal such as Zanzibari or Madagascan copal, South American copal such as Brazilian or Colombian copal), i) dammar, j) elemi, k) frankincense, l) galbanum, m) labdanum, n) mastic, o) myrrh, p) sandarac, q) shellac, r) storax, s) Venice turpentine (larch, turpentine extract), t) rosin, in particular rosin, rosinates and u) tall oil, v) resins extracted from vegetable waxes, and mixtures of such resins; preferably, the natural resins used according to the present invention are selected from: j), k), t), u) and v), and mixtures of these resins; preferably, the natural resin is selected from j), k) and v) and mixtures of such resins; it is understood that the resins of the present invention can be esterified, chlorinated, form adducts, phenol-modified, and / or dimerized, and / or further hydrogenated.

[0073] j) elemi "Elemi" is a generic term that defines a group of recent natural resins derived from plants of the Burseraceae family (Canarium indicum). Each variety is described according to its country of origin. According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the elemi resin used is derived from the Philippines, particularly Manila elemi. To extract it, the tree is cut, and a pathological resin flow appears, which solidifies over time. Elemi is yellowish to greenish in color, opaque, similar to pomade, greasy, sticky, and solidifies into a resin with scattered crystals and a brownish tint.

[0074] Elemi is soluble in aromatic solvents, alcohols, esters, and carbon disulfide; it is sparingly soluble in aliphatic solvents. Elemi has an acid value of 18 - 34, a saponification value of 25 - 60, and a softening point of approximately 80. The balsam exuded from elemi contains up to 30% essential oil.

[0075] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the resin of the present invention is selected from, for example, elemi in pure form or mixed with latex, particularly elemi derived from the Canarium luzonicum family. Mention may be made of Canarium luzonicum elemi resin sold under the name ELEMI RESIN. According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the resin is selected from j) elemi.

[0076] k) Frankincense (olibanum) Frankincense is present in the United Arab Emirates, Oman, Somalia, Ethiopia, and East India. Frankincense resin is recent and is harvested from the trees of Boswellia carterii. Amazonian frankincense resin also exists. The bark is intentionally damaged to obtain a milky white extract recovered after drying. Preferably, the resin of the present invention is selected from frankincense, particularly Amazonian frankincense.

[0077] Frankincense resin is pale yellow and forms irregular circular or spherical beads. They generally contain 20% to 40% by mass (about 33%) of boswellic acid (C32H52O4). Frankincense has an acid value of 30% to 50% (indirect) and is moderately soluble in ethanol in a basic medium.

[0078] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the resin of the present invention is selected from frankincense, in particular Protium heptaphyllum resin, or Protium resin, or white BREU resin, and frankincense resin derived from Sal tree, Shorea robusta.

[0079] Advantageously, the resin is preferably in a mixture with one or more fatty substances as defined below according to the present invention, selected from volatile or non-volatile oils. For example, Shorea robusta resin sold under the name KAHLRESIN 6720 and sunflower seed oil (Shorea robusta resin (SHOREA ROBUSTA RESIN), Helianthus annuus (HELIANTHUS ANNUUS) (sunflower) seed oil (HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED OIL), tocopherol: 50 to 75% by mass of Shorea robusta resin, 25 to 50% by mass of sunflower seed oil), and Shorea robusta resin sold by KAHLWAX and octyldodecanol (SHOREA ROBUSTA RESIN and OCTYLDODECANOL 50 to 70% by mass of Shorea robusta resin, 30 to 50% by mass of octyldodecanol). According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the resin is selected from k) frankincense.

[0080] t) rosin Preferably, the natural resin is selected from rosin. Rosin is a recent resin from renewable resources and can be modified (e.g., esterification, hydrogenation, substitution).

[0081] Gum rosin is preferably purified and distilled from the balsams of various pine components (up to 80 different species).

[0082] Their composition is determined by climate, soil composition and other botanical and meteorological factors. For example, Pinus austriaca (black pine) Austria, Central America, caribaea (slash pine), United States, Caribbean region, densiflora Japan, elliottii United States, halepensis (Aleppo pine) Greece, Portugal, Spain, langifolia India, maritima (seashore pine) France, Spain, Portugal, massoniana (Chinese red pine) China, merkusii Indonesia, Myanmar, Philippines, nigra (black pine) Austria, oocarpa Central America, Honduras, palustris (swamp pine), United States, (longleaf pine), pseudostrobus Central America, Mexico, sylvestris (Scots pine) Germany, Poland, tonkinensis China, yunnanensis, China-originated rosin can be mentioned.

[0083] The average composition is about 70 - 75% rosin and 20 - 25% turpentine extract.

[0084] Wood rosin [8050 - 09 - 7] Rosin is derived from stumps in the United States that have remained on the ground for at least 10 years to make available resin-rich duramen. Pine stumps contain 10% to 30% by mass (about 19%) rosin, 1% to 10% by mass (preferably 4%) turpentine oil, 1% to 10% by mass (preferably 4%) resin insoluble in petroleum ether, 20% to 30% by mass (preferably 23%) water, and 40% to 60% by mass (preferably 50%) cellulose and lignin types.

[0085] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the resin is selected from rosin.

[0086] u) Tall oil rosin (rosin and rosinates) [8052-10-6] Tall oil rosin often contains small amounts of higher fatty acids having in particular a carbon number of 6 or more carbon atoms. According to one embodiment, tall oil rosin does not contain oxocarboxylic acids. They are particularly soluble in organic solvents. The colophony resin of the present invention contains in particular rosin acids belonging to the terpene family. The numbering of the carbon atoms in the molecule of rosin acid is shown using abietic acid as an example.

[0087] Rosin acid has the molecular chemical formula C 20 H 30 O2 and thus belongs to the diterpene family (4 isoprene units). A number of isomers of tricyclic rosin acids exist, which differ in the position of two double bonds. Advantageously, the resin according to the present invention is selected from gum rosin obtained by opening living trees, wood rosin extracted from pine wood or stumps, and tall oil ( "tall oil rosin") obtained from by-products derived from the manufacture of paper. Advantageously, the resin contains rosin acid, preferably selected mainly from abietic acid and pimaric acid type acids, in particular levopimaric acid, neoabietic acid, abietic acid, dehydroabietic acid, tetrahydroabietic acid, dihydroabietic acid, dextrorpimaric acid, isodextrorpimaric acid, or palladic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0088] Rosin derivatives can result, in particular, from the polymerization, hydrogenation and / or esterification of rosin acid (e.g., with polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol, glycerol or pentaerythritol). Examples that may be mentioned are rosin esters sold by Hercules under the reference Foral 85, Pentalyn H and Staybelite Ester 10; Sylvatac 95 and Zonester 85 from Arizona Chemical, or Unirez 3013 from Union Camp.

[0089] According to one embodiment of the invention, the resin is selected from rosinates (salts of rosin acid with alkaline agents, in particular salts of alkali metals such as sodium or potassium, alkaline earth metals such as calcium, or metals such as zinc or magnesium).

[0090] According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, the resin is selected from rosin acid esters, in particular esters of rosin acid and (C1-C6) alkanols, polyhydroxy (C1-C6) alkane polyols such as glycerol, pentaerythritol, and mixtures thereof, more preferably glyceryl rosinates sold under the name RESIESTER GUM A 35, hydrogenated vegetable oils and / or castor seed oils sold under the names RESIESTER N 35 S and RESIESTER 80 (glyceryl rosinates, Ricinus communis seed oil sold by EFP BIOTEK, hydrogenated vegetable oils) glyceryl rosinates as a mixture with pentaerythrityl rosinates.

[0091] According to another embodiment of the invention, the resin is selected from poly(carboxy)(C2-C6) alkanes or poly(carboxy)(C2-C6) alkene adducts, in particular maleic acid and rosin acid.

[0092] According to another embodiment of the present invention, the resin is selected from phenol-modified rosin. In particular, it is modified with rosin modified by (C1-C4) alkylene phenol or diphenol which may be substituted with one or more (C1-C4) alkyl groups such as methyl or tert-butyl, more specifically 4-tert-butylphenol and 4,4'-isopropylidene diphenol (bisphenol A).

[0093] According to another embodiment of the present invention, the resin is selected from dimerized rosin, especially that in which abietic acid is polymerized. The rosin preferably contains more than 50% of dimer acid and is thus called dimerized rosin. According to one embodiment, the rosin is polymerized and contains 30% to 90% by mass (especially at least 40%, 60% or 80% of dimer acid) of dimer acid. According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the resin is selected from hydrogenated rosin. Double bonds, especially the double bonds of acids such as abietic acid, can be subjected to oxidation and removed by hydrogenation. Naturally, the resin of the present invention can be esterified, chlorinated, adducted, phenol-modified, and / or dimerized and further hydrogenated.

[0094] According to a preferred embodiment, the resin comprises at least one ester of rosin acid selected from the group consisting of glyceryl rosin acid, pentaerythrityl rosin acid, silicone rosin acid, diethylene glycol rosin acid, hydrogenated rosininate dilinoleyl dimer, dipentaerythrityl hexahydroxystearate / hexastearate / hexarodinate, glyceryl dibehenate / hydrogenated rosininate, glyceryl diisostearate / hydrogenated rosininate, triglyceryl trihydrogenated rosin acid, glycol rosin acid, hydrogenated methyl rosinate, pentaerythrityl hydrogenated rosin acid, triethylene glycol hydrogenated rosininate, and mixtures thereof.

[0095] According to a particular embodiment, the resin of the present invention is selected from PENTAERYTHRITYL HYDROGENATED ROSINATE, which is sold under the name SYMRISE BIO4326, and METHYL HYDROGENATED ROSINATE.

[0096] Furthermore, the resin of the present invention may be mixed with a fatty substance c), as defined below, in particular a wax or a butter. Mixtures of glyceryl rosinate with one or more substances selected from fatty substances c), in particular a wax or a butter, such as a mixture with shea butter or olive oil, such as (GLYCERYL ROSINATE, RICINUS COMMUNIS SEED OIL, HYDROGENATED VEGETABLE OIL sold under the name SHEA BUTTER&GLYCERYL ROSINATE&OILS), BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII (SHEA BUTTER) GLYCERYL ROSINATE, OLEA EUROPAEA (OLIVE) OIL UNSAPONIFIABLES GLYCERYL ROSINATE, OLEA EUROPAEA (OLIVE) OIL UNSAPONIFIABLES can be mentioned.

[0097] v) Resins extracted from plant waxes Natural plant waxes themselves are not considered resins. They are one of the substances secreted / excreted by plants, naturally containing very low amounts of resin and containing less than 30% by weight of terpenes relative to the total mass of the wax. For example, carnauba wax is naturally secreted by the leaves of the palm tree, Copernica cerifera, to prevent the leaves from dehydrating. Candelilla wax is obtained from a shrub called Euphorbia antisyphilitica, which is native to northern Mexico. Waxes protect the plant from its environment and prevent excessive evaporation. For example, candelilla wax is mainly composed of hydrocarbons (about 50%, chains of 29 - 33 carbon atoms), high molecular weight esters (20% - 29%), free acids (7% - 9%) and resins (12 - 14%, mainly triterpene esters).

[0098] Nevertheless, the definition of "natural resin" for the purposes of the present invention also includes resins obtained from these waxes when the resin or terpene component in question has been pre - concentrated, isolated or extracted from these waxes, as long as it contains the minimum content of terpenes (30% by weight relative to the total mass of the components) required by the present invention. Particular mention may be made of candelilla resin (100% pure resin, extracted from the corresponding wax) having an extract of Euphorbia cerifera (candelilla) wax sold under the name CANDELILLA RESIN E - 1 from JAPAN NATURAL PRODUCTS in the following INCI names. The pamphlet of International Publication No. WO 2013 / 147113 A1 also mentions carnauba resin, a terpene resin extracted from carnauba wax, which has physical properties similar to those of the previously described natural resins, for example, a softening temperature, no melting temperature, and properties that distinguish the resin from the wax.

[0099] Table 1 of the examples shows some characteristic differences between the waxes and the resins according to the present invention with respect to their thermal properties.

[0100] The resin has a softening point and a glass transition temperature, but does not have a melting temperature.

[0101] The opposite is true for waxes that have a melting temperature.

[0102] The resin is preferably selected from the resins j), k) and t) defined above, and the resin extracted from the wax v), in particular candelilla wax or carnauba wax and mixtures thereof.

[0103] Preferred resins according to the invention: According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the resin is selected from the following references indicated by their INCI names, used alone or as a mixture: - Euphorbia cerifera (candelilla) wax extracts such as CANDELILLA RESIN E-1 sold by JAPAN NATURAL PRODUCTS, BOTANICAL RESIN sold by CERA RICA NODA, TOWAX-1F12 (type v resin) sold by TOA KASEI, etc.; - Protium heptaphyllum resin, or Protium resin, or white shellac resin, for example, those sold by CITROLEO or Ephyla (type k resin) may also be used -Frankincense resin derived from Boswellia serrata, Shorea robusta resin (SHOREA ROBUSTA RESIN). The resin may preferably be in the form of a mixture with one or more fatty substances c) as defined below, selected from volatile or non-volatile oils. For example, Shorea robusta resin sold under the name KAHLRESIN 6720 and sunflower seed oil (HOREA ROBUSTA RESIN, HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED OIL, TOCOPHEROL: 50 - 75% by mass of Shorea robusta resin, 25 - 50% by mass of sunflower seed oil), and Shorea robusta resin sold by KAHLWAX and octyldodecanol (SHOREA ROBUSTA RESIN and octyldodecanol, 50 - 70% by mass of Shorea robusta resin, 30 - 50% by mass of octyldodecanol) (type k resin) -Glyceryl rosinate sold under the name RESIESTER GUM A 35, glyceryl rosinate as a mixture with hydrogenated vegetable oil and / or castor seed oil (GLYCERYL ROSINATE, RICINUS COMMUNIS SEED OIL, HYDROGENATED VEGETABLE OIL sold by EFP BIOTEK), pentaerythrityl rosinate sold under the names RESIESTER N 35 S and RESIESTER 80, or pentaerythrityl hydrogenated rosinate, methyl hydrogenated rosinate sold under the name SYMRISE BIO4326, etc. Examples of rosinate esters include those mentioned above.

[0104] More preferred resins according to the present invention: According to a more preferred embodiment of the present invention, the resin is selected from the following references indicated by their INCI names, used alone or as a mixture: - Euphorbia cerifera (candelilla) wax extracts such as CANDELILLA RESIN E-1 sold by JAPAN NATURAL PRODUCTS, BOTANICAL RESIN sold by CERA RICA NODA, TOWAX-1F12 (type v resin) sold by TOA KASEI, etc.; - Protium heptaphyllum resin, or Protium resin, or white shellac resin, for example, those sold by CITROLEO or Ephyla (type k resin) may also be used. - Shorea robusta resin, which is a frankincense resin derived from the sal tree.

[0105] The resin may preferably be in the form of a mixture with one or more fatty substances c) defined below, selected from volatile or non-volatile oils. For example, Shorea robusta resin sold under the name KAHLRESIN 6720 and sunflower seed oil (HOREA ROBUSTA RESIN, HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED OIL, TOCOPHEROL: 50 - 75% by mass of Shorea robusta resin, 25 - 50% by mass of sunflower seed oil), and Shorea robusta resin sold by KAHLWAX and octyldodecanol (SHOREA ROBUSTA RESIN and OCTYLDODECANOL 50 - 70% by mass of Shorea robusta resin, 30 - 50% by mass of octyldodecanol) (type k resin).

[0106] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the resin is selected from Euphorbia cerifera (candelilla) wax extracts.

[0107] Conveniently, the resin is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount of 0.1% to 40% by mass, preferably 0.5% to 35% by mass, preferably 1% to 30% by mass, preferably 1.2% to 25% by mass, preferably 1.5% to 25% by mass, preferably 2% to 25% by mass, preferably 3% to 22% by mass, preferably 3% to 20% by mass, for example 5% to 20% by mass, preferably 3% to 15% by mass, preferably 3% to 10% by mass, preferably 3% to 8% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition representing 100%.

[0108] Conveniently, the composition of the present invention contains less than 10%, preferably less than 5%, preferably less than 1%, preferably less than 0.5%, preferably less than 0.1% of synthetic resin, and preferably does not contain synthetic resin.

[0109] Conveniently, the composition of the present invention contains less than 10%, preferably less than 5%, preferably less than 1%, preferably less than 0.5%, preferably less than 0.1% of silicone resin, and preferably does not contain silicone resin, that is, a synthetic resin whose basic structure is a chain containing siloxane groups (silicon-oxygen-silicon bonds).

[0110] Oil The composition of the present invention contains an oily phase containing at least one volatile oil selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils, volatile silicone oils, and mixtures thereof, and conveniently contains a continuous oily phase.

[0111] The phase is liquid at ambient temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (1.013×10 5 Pa) (in the absence of a structuring agent). It is an organic substance, that is, it contains at least carbon atoms and hydrogen atoms and is immiscible with water.

[0112] The oily phase contains at least one volatile oil and, optionally, a component that is soluble or miscible in the phase.

[0113] The total concentration of the oily phase of the composition of the present invention is preferably in the range of 5% by mass to 100% by mass, preferably 10% by mass to 98% by mass, preferably 15% by mass to 90% by mass, preferably 20% by mass to 80% by mass, preferably 25% by mass to 70% by mass, preferably 30% by mass to 60% by mass with respect to the total mass of the composition.

[0114] The term "oil" refers to a water-immiscible compound that is liquid at 25 ° C and atmospheric pressure (1.013 × 10 5 Pa).

[0115] The term "immiscible" means that after mixing and stirring equal amounts of water and oil, a stable solution containing only a single phase is not formed under the above temperature and pressure conditions. This observation is carried out by generating vortices in the mixture by thoroughly stirring 100 g of the mixture using a Rayneri blender (as a guide, 200 to 1000 rpm), allowing the resulting mixture to stand in a sealed flask at room temperature for 24 hours, and then observing visually or using a phase contrast microscope as necessary.

[0116] Volatile oil The term "volatile oil" refers to an oil having a vapor pressure of 1.3 Pa or more, preferably 2.66 Pa or more, preferably in the range of 2.66 Pa to 40000 Pa, preferably 2.66 Pa to 13000 Pa, preferably 2.66 Pa to 1300 Pa at ambient temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure. Advantageously, the volatile oil used in the composition of the present invention has a vapor pressure in the range of 1.3 Pa to 13000 Pa, preferably 2.66 Pa to 13000 Pa, preferably 2.66 Pa to 1300 Pa.

[0117] In contrast, the term "non-volatile oil" means an oil having a vapor pressure of less than 2.66 Pa, more specifically less than 0.13 Pa, at 25 ° C and atmospheric pressure.

[0118] As an example, the vapor pressure can be measured according to a static method or by an effusion method by isothermal thermogravimetry according to the vapor pressure of the oil (OCDE standard 104).

[0119] The volatile oil is present in an amount preferably in the range of 1% by mass to 90% by mass, preferably 2% to 70%, preferably 3% to 50%, preferably 5% by mass to 45% by mass, preferably 8% by mass to 40% by mass, and even more preferably 10% by mass to 35% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition. The volatile oil is conveniently selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils, volatile silicone oils, and mixtures thereof, and is preferably selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils.

[0120] Volatile hydrocarbon oil The term "hydrocarbon oil" means an oil that mainly contains carbon and hydrogen atoms and may contain one or more functional groups selected from hydroxyl groups, ester groups, ether groups, and carboxyl groups. That is, as a result, hydrocarbon oils do not contain silicon atoms or fluorine atoms.

[0121] The term "non-polar hydrocarbon oil" means a hydrocarbon oil (also called a hydrocarbon) that contains only carbon atoms and hydrogen atoms and is preferably non-aromatic.

[0122] The term "polar hydrocarbon oil" refers to a hydrocarbon oil that mainly contains carbon atoms and hydrogen atoms and contains one or more functional groups selected from hydroxyl groups, ester groups, ether groups, and carboxyl groups, that is, an oil having only C, H, and O.

[0123] Examples of the volatile hydrocarbon oil that can be used in the present invention include the following: - Hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, particularly C8 - C16 isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6 - pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and oils sold under the trade names of, for example, Isopar® or Permethyl®. - C6 to C16 linear alkanes, for example, C11 to C15 alkanes as a single or a mixture, such as hexane, decane, undecane or tridecane, isoparaffins, for example n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol under the respective references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, undecane-tridecane mixtures, mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of International Patent Publication No. WO 2008 / 155059 from Cognis, and mixtures thereof, and mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) such as Cetiol Ultimate (registered trademark) from BASF; - Volatile, non-aromatic, cyclic C5 to C12 alkanes; - Branched C8 to C16 esters, isohexyl neopentanoate; - Short-chain esters (containing a total of 3 to 8 carbon atoms), for example, methyl acetate, ethyl acetate, propyl acetate, n-butyl acetate or isobutyl acetate, such as those sold by Solvay, Dow or Oxea; - Volatile hydrocarbon-based carbonates of the structure R’1-O-CO-O-R’2, where R’1 and R’2 independently represent a linear, branched or cyclic C4 to C8 alkyl group, preferably a C4 to C8 alkyl group. R1 and R2 may preferably be the same. Preferably, R’1 and R’2 represent a linear butyl alkyl group, a pentyl group. Conveniently, the ether oil is selected from dibutyl carbonate and dipentyl carbonate; - Volatile ether oils of the formula R1OR2, where R1 and R2 independently represent a linear, branched or cyclic C4 to C8 alkyl group, preferably a C4 to C8 alkyl group. R1 and R2 may preferably be the same.

[0124] Examples of the linear alkyl group include a butyl group and a pentyl group. Examples of the branched alkyl group include a 1-methylpropyl group, a 2-methylpropyl group, a t-butyl group, and a 1,1-dimethylpropyl group. Conveniently, the ether oil is selected from dicaprylyl ether and dicapryl ether, and most specifically from dicaprylyl ether.

[0125] Other volatile hydrocarbon oils, such as petroleum distillates, especially those sold by Shell under the name Shell Sol T; or volatile linear alkanes such as those described in German Patent No. 102008012457, a patent application of Cognis, can also be used.

[0126] The volatile hydrocarbon oil is preferably selected from hydrocarbon oils of the hydrocarbon type having 8 to 16 carbon atoms (therefore, nonpolar hydrocarbon oils consisting only of carbon and hydrogen), and mixtures thereof, and in particular, - branched C8 - C16 alkanes, such as isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane or isohexadecane, and oils sold, for example, under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, either alone or as a mixture, - linear alkanes, such as C11 - C15 alkanes, alone or as a mixture, and - mixtures thereof are selected.

[0127] Volatile hydrocarbon oils are particularly selected from C6 - C16 alkanes, especially alkanes such as dodecane, tetradecane, isohexadecane, a mixture of undecane and tridecane, and isoparaffins such as C13 - C16 isoparaffins. According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the volatile oil is a linear or branched hydrocarbon oil having volatility, and in particular, it is selected from undecane, decane, dodecane, isododecane, isohexadecane, tridecane, tetradecane and mixtures thereof, preferably a mixture containing isododecane and / or a mixture of undecane and tridecane. According to an embodiment of the present invention, the volatile oil of the present invention is preferably of natural origin, a C9 - C12 alkane whose chain contains 9 - 12 carbon atoms, preferably a mixture of linear or branched C9 - C12 alkanes. This mixture is particularly known by the INCI name C9 - C12 ALKANE, CAS 68608 - 12 - 8, VEGELIGHT SILK® sold by BioSynthIs.

[0128] According to a preferred embodiment, the volatile oil is at least partially of plant origin.

[0129] Volatile silicone oil The term "silicone oil" means an oil containing at least one silicon atom, particularly at least one Si - O group, and more specifically an organopolysiloxane. Volatile silicone oils can be selected from linear, branched or cyclic silicone oils, such as polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) containing 3 - 7 silicon atoms.

[0130] Examples of such oils that can be mentioned include octyltrimethicone, hexyltrimethicone, methyltrimethicone, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, such as those sold by Dow Corning under the reference DC 200 (1.5 cSt), or DC 200 (3 cSt), or KF 96 A from Shin - Etsu; (either alone or as a mixture).

[0131] According to a specific form of the present invention, a mixture of at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil and at least one volatile silicone oil, more specifically a mixture of isododecane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane, is used.

[0132] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention contains less than 30% by mass, preferably less than 20% by mass, preferably less than 10% by mass, preferably less than 1% by mass, preferably less than 0.5% by mass, preferably less than 0.2% by mass, preferably less than 0.1% by mass of silicone oil, in particular volatile silicone oil, based on the total mass of the composition, and ideally the composition of the invention does not contain silicone oil.

[0133] Preferably, in the composition according to the invention, the volatile oil is selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils. The composition of the invention preferably comprises isododecane, a C9-C12 linear or branched alkane and / or a mixture of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13); preferably it comprises isododecane.

[0134] Preferably, the mass ratio of the amount of volatile oil to the amount of natural resin is in the range from 0.5 to 50, preferably from 1 to 30, preferably from 3 to 20, preferably from 5 to 18, preferably from 8 to 15. According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition can further comprise one or more non-volatile oils.

[0135] Non-volatile oil The term "non-volatile oil" means an oil having a vapor pressure other than zero and less than 2.66 Pa, more specifically less than 0.13 Pa, at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure. As an example, the vapor pressure can be measured according to a static method or by an effusion method by isothermal thermogravimetry, depending on the vapor pressure of the oil (OCDE standard 104).

[0136] The non-volatile oil of the present invention is of natural or synthetic origin, preferably natural. According to a specific embodiment of the invention, composition C1 or C1' comprises one or more non-volatile oils.

[0137] Among non-volatile oils, the following can be mentioned.

[0138] Non-volatile silicone oil Non-volatile silicone oil can be particularly selected from non-volatile silicones having the following INCI names: dimethicone, dimethiconol, trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane, tetramethyl tetraphenyl trisiloxane, diphenyl dimethicone, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone, and mixtures thereof.

[0139] These products are sold, among others, by Dow Corning under the names PH-1555 HRI Cosmetic Fluid (trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane) and Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid (phenyl trimethicone); diphenyl dimethicone, for example, products sold by Shin-Etsu such as KF-54, KF54HV, KF-50-300CS, KF-53 d, and KF-50-100CS or Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone KF56 A; products sold by Wacker Chemie, Belsil PDM 1000 and Belsil PDM 20 (trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone), either alone or as a mixture.

[0140] Non-volatile fluorinated oil The term "fluorinated oil" means an oil containing at least one fluorine atom. The fluorinated oil can be selected in particular from fluorinated polyethers and can also be selected from fluorosilicone oils and fluorosilicones described in European Patent No. 847752.

[0141] Non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils The non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils can be selected, for example, from linear or branched compounds of mineral or synthetic origin, such as - liquid paraffin, - squalane, such as the reference NEOSSANCE SQUALANE sold by AMYRIS, - isoeicosane, - saturated linear hydrocarbons and mixtures thereof, more specifically those having C15 to C28, such as mixtures having the following INCI names: C15 - 19 alkanes, C18 - C21 alkanes, C21 - C28 alkanes, such as the products Gemseal 40, Gemseal 60, Gemseal 120 sold by Total, Emogreen L19, Emogreen L15 sold by SEPPIC, - hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polybutene, such as products in the Indopol range sold by Ineos Oligomers, products having the INCI name HYDROGENATED POLYISOBUTENE - hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as non-volatile compounds in the Parleam® range sold by NIPPON OIL FATS, - hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polydecene, such as non-volatile compounds in the PURESYN® range sold by ExxonMobil, - decene / butene copolymers and butene / isobutene copolymers, - and mixtures thereof can be selected from.

[0142] Polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils These can be selected from the following: - Saturated or unsaturated straight-chain or branched C10-C26 fatty alcohols, preferably monoalcohols. Advantageously, the C10-C26 alcohols are fatty alcohols and, when containing at least 16 carbon atoms, are preferably branched. Preferably, the fatty alcohol contains 10-24 carbon atoms, more preferably 12-22 carbon atoms, and in particular, for example, lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof. - Triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and glycerol may have chain lengths in the range of C4-C36, in particular C8-C36, preferably C18-C36, for the fatty acids, and these oils can be straight-chain or branched-chain, saturated or unsaturated. As examples, in particular triglycerides of heptanoic acid or octanoic acid, caprylic / capric triglyceride; vegetable oils such as wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot kernel oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, safflower oil, pumpkin oil, bone marrow oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, hemp oil, passionflower oil, musk rose oil; the liquid fraction of shea butter and the liquid fraction of cocoa butter; and mixtures thereof can be mentioned; -RCOO represents a carboxylic acid residue containing 2 to 40 carbon atoms, and R’ represents a hydrocarbon-based chain containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms. A linear aliphatic hydrocarbon-based ester of the formula RCOOR’, an alkylene glycol, particularly an aliphatic hydrocarbon-based ester of ethylene glycol or propylene glycol, and the total number of carbon atoms is preferably at least 10. Examples of such esters include, inter alia, isoamyl laurate, cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, isostearyl heptanoate, cocoil caprylate / caprate, octanoate, decanoate or ricinoleate of an alcohol or polyalcohol, for example, propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, alkyl benzoate, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol bis(2-ethylhexanoate), and mixtures thereof, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters, for example, isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate or 2-octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isononanoic acid esters, for example, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, or octyl isononanoate, oleyl elcate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, diisopropyl sebacate, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl behenate or myristyl myristate; -Hydroxylated esters, for example polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate; -Aromatic esters such as tridecyl trimellitate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, 2-phenylethyl ester of benzoic acid, and butyloctyl salicylate; -Esters of linear fatty acids having a total carbon number in the range of 35 to 70, such as pentaerythrityl tetraperargonate; - Esters of branched C24-C28 fatty acids or fatty alcohols, such as triisoarachidyl citrate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, glyceryl triisostearate, glyceryl tris(2-decyltetradecanoate), pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate or tetra(2-decyltetradecanoate); - Polyesters obtained by condensation of dimers and / or trimers of unsaturated fatty acids with diols, such as those with the INCI names dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer or dilinoleic acid / propanediol copolymer; polyesters obtained by condensation of fatty acid dimers with diol dimers, such as dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate; - Synthetic ethers containing 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicaprylyl ether, and dialkyl carbonates where the two alkyl chains may be the same or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate; Vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, such as (VP / hexadecene) copolymer (vinylpyrrolidone / 1-hexadecene copolymer) (INCI name); and - Mixtures thereof can be mentioned.

[0143] According to one embodiment, the non-volatile oil is selected from the non-volatile silicone oils, non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, polar hydrocarbon oils and mixtures thereof as defined above, preferably selected from the non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, polar hydrocarbon oils and mixtures thereof as defined above.

[0144] According to one embodiment, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil is a linear aliphatic hydrocarbon ester of the formula RCOOR' (wherein RCOO represents a carboxylic acid residue containing 2 to 40 carbon atoms, and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms), an alkylene glycol as defined above, particularly an aliphatic hydrocarbon ester of ethylene glycol or propylene glycol, and more preferably is selected from isoamyl laurate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, (caprylic acid / capric acid) coconut alkyl, and mixtures thereof, and contains at least one non-volatile oil selected from these or consists of these, and more preferably represents isononyl isononanoate.

[0145] According to one embodiment, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil is selected from saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C10-C26 fatty alcohols, preferably monoalcohols, containing at least 16 carbon atoms as described above, preferably branched when containing at least 16 carbon atoms, and particularly from oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol such as that sold under the reference symbol Eutanol G from BASF, and mixtures thereof, and contains at least one non-volatile oil selected from these or consists of these.

[0146] According to one embodiment, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil consists of a triglyceride which is an ester of a fatty acid and glycerol, the fatty acid of which may particularly have a chain length in the range of C4-C36, especially in the range of C18C8-C36 (this oil may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated as described above), and is preferably selected from triglyceride heptane or octanoate, glyceryl tri(caprylic acid / capric acid), and mixtures thereof, and more preferably glyceryl tri(caprylic acid / capric acid), for example, that sold under the reference symbol Palmester 3585 from KLK Oleo, and contains at least one non-volatile oil selected from these or consists of these.

[0147] According to one embodiment, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil is selected from the non-polar hydrocarbon-based non-volatile oils described above, and preferably comprises or consists of at least one non-volatile oil selected from linear saturated hydrocarbons, more specifically a mixture of C15-C28 hydrocarbons, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polybutene, and mixtures thereof.

[0148] According to one embodiment, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil comprises or consists of at least one non-volatile oil selected from non-polar hydrocarbon-based non-volatile oils selected from, for example, mixtures having the following INCI names: C15-C19 alkanes, C18-C21 alkanes, C21-C28 alkanes, for example, products sold by Total such as Gemseal 40, Gemseal 60, Gemseal 120, Emogreen L19 sold by SEPPIC, Emogreen L15 sold by SEPPIC, products having the INCI name Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, and mixtures thereof.

[0149] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil c) consists of isopentyl laurate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, tri(caprylic acid / capric acid) glyceryl, mixtures, for example, those having the following INCI names: C15-C19 alkanes, C18-C21 alkanes, C21-C28 alkanes, such as Gemseal 40, Gemseal, products having the INCI name hydrogenated polyisobutene, and mixtures thereof, more specifically, products having the INCI name hydrogenated polyisobutene, mixtures having the INCI name C15-C19 alkanes, for example Emogreen L15 sold by SEPPIC, and isononyl isononanoate.

[0150] According to one embodiment, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil consists of one or more of the previously defined non-volatile polar or non-polar hydrocarbon-based oils.

[0151] According to one embodiment, the non-volatile oil preferably contains at least one silicone oil as defined above, selected from Belsil DM 5 Plus Dimethicone grade sold by Wacker, dimethicone such as reference symbol Dowsil SH 200 C Fluid 10 CST sold by Dow Chemical or reference symbol Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 1000 CST sold by Dow Chemical, or phenyltrimethicone such as reference symbol Dowsil SH 556 Fluid sold by Dow Chemical.

[0152] Preferably, when the non-volatile oil is preferably a mixture of at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil selected from non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils and polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils and at least one volatile silicone oil, the amount of the silicone oil is less than 30%, preferably less than 20%, preferably less than 10% based on the total mass of the composition.

[0153] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the optional non-volatile oil is present in the composition in an amount by mass of 0.1% to 50%, preferably 0.2% to 40%, preferably 0.5% to 35%, preferably 1% to 30%, more preferably 2% to 20% based on the total mass of the composition. The mass ratio represented by R means the ratio of the sum of the masses of the volatile oils (VO) to the sum of the masses of the non-volatile oils (NVO) and is defined as follows: R = [sum of the masses of VO] / [sum of the masses of NVO].

[0154] Preferably, 0 < R ≤ 10000, more specifically 0.01 < R ≤ 1000; more particularly 0.05 < R ≤ 500; preferably, 0.1 < R ≤ 100, or even more preferably 0.5 < R ≤ 50.

[0155] Since the addition of non-volatile oils tends to reduce the abrasion resistance of the film, it is preferably used in a smaller content compared to volatile oils in order to maintain optimal persistence while having a comfortable skin feel (a soft, moisturizing, and non-sticky feel after applying the composition).

[0156] Volatile alcohol The composition according to the present invention contains at least one volatile alcohol. The term "alcohol" means any compound containing at least one hydroxyl functional group in its structure.

[0157] The term "volatile substance" means any substance that can evaporate when in contact with the skin for less than 1 hour at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile substances are liquids having a vapor pressure in the range of ambient temperature, especially ambient temperature (25 ° C) having a non-zero vapor pressure and atmospheric pressure, especially 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10-3 to 300 mmHg), preferably 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg).

[0158] The term "volatile alcohol" means any compound containing at least one hydroxyl group, and in particular, when in contact with a keratin substance such as skin or hair at ambient temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), more than 95% by mass of the compound can evaporate in less than 1 hour, and in particular, it can evaporate when in contact with the skin at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure in less than 1 hour. The volatile substance is a liquid at ambient temperature, and preferably has a vapor pressure in the range of 2.66 Pa or more, preferably 2.66 Pa to 40,000 Pa, preferably 2.66 Pa to 13,000 Pa, preferably 2.66 Pa to 8000 Pa at ambient temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure.

[0159] Conveniently, according to the definition of the volatile substances used in the composition of the present invention, the volatile oil or volatile alcohol, preferably each of them, has a vapor pressure of 1.3 Pa or more, preferably in the range of 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa, preferably 2.66 Pa or more, preferably in the range of 2.66 Pa to 13,000 Pa at ambient temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure.

[0160] The vapor pressure can be measured according to a static method or by an effusion method by isothermal thermogravimetry according to the vapor pressure of the oil (OCDE standard 104).

[0161] The volatile alcohol according to the present invention is preferably selected from lower C1-C5 alcohols, may be selected from methanol, ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, n-butanol, isobutanol, tert-butanol, preferably selected from C1-C4 alcohols, preferably selected from the following: ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol, n-butanol, and mixtures thereof, more specifically ethanol.

[0162] The viscosity at 20 °C measured with a Haake RheoStress 600 machine equipped with a rotor with a diameter of 60 mm, an angle of 2°, and a shear rate of 200 s-1 is preferably 0.3 to 3 mPa·s.

[0163] Advantageously, the volatile alcohol is present in a content in the range of 1% to 70% by mass, more preferably 5% to 50% by mass, more specifically 5% to 30% by mass based on the total mass of the composition. The advantage of the composition of the present invention is that it can limit the content of volatile alcohol, which often causes discomfort (dryness, stinging), without losing solubilizing power.

[0164] Preferably, the mass ratio of the amount of the volatile alcohol to the amount of the natural resin is in the range of 0.5 to 50, preferably 1 to 30, preferably 1.2 to 20, preferably 1.5 to 15.

[0165] Preferably, the mass ratio of the amount of volatile oil to the amount of volatile alcohol is preferably in the range of 0.01 to 100, preferably 0.1 to 10, preferably 0.25 to 8, preferably 0.3 to 7.5, preferably 0.5 to 7.5, preferably 0.5 to 5, preferably 0.7 to 5, preferably 1 to 4, preferably 1.5 to 4.

[0166] Preferably, the mass ratio of the amount of volatile oil to the amount of volatile alcohol is greater than 0.25, preferably greater than 0.3, preferably greater than 0.4, preferably greater than 0.5, preferably greater than 0.6, preferably greater than 0.7, preferably greater than 0.9, preferably greater than 1.

[0167] Advantageously, in the composition according to the invention, the mass content of the volatile oil is greater than the mass content of the volatile alcohol relative to the total mass of the composition, and the volatile alcohol itself is greater than the mass content of the natural resin (oil > alcohol > resin).

[0168] Thus, in the composition according to the invention, the sum (S) of the respective mass contents of the volatile oil, volatile alcohol and natural resin preferably follows the following rule: S(volatile oil) > S(volatile alcohol) > S(natural resin). The undesirable properties of the volatile alcohol are offset by a carefully selected volatile oil content while ensuring a sufficient content of volatile alcohol to enable solubilization of the natural resin.

[0169] Modified polysaccharide The composition of the present invention contains one or more modified polysaccharides. - "Sugar" is a monosaccharide or polysaccharide radical, its O-protected sugar derivatives, such as sugar esters of (C1-C6) alkyl carboxylic acids, such as acetic acid, amine group-containing sugars and (C1-C4) alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, such as methylglucose. Examples of sugar groups include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose; - The term "monosaccharide" refers to a monosaccharide sugar containing at least 5 carbon atoms of the formula Cx(H2O)x, where x is an integer of 5 or more, preferably x is 6 or more, particularly x is 5 or more and 7 or less, preferably x = 6; they may be of D or L configuration, may be of α or β anomer, and may be their salts and their solvates, such as hydrates. - The term "polysaccharide" refers to a polysaccharide sugar that is a polymer composed of several sugars linked together by O-glycosidic bonds, the polymer is composed of monosaccharide units defined above, the monosaccharide units contain at least 5 carbon atoms, preferably 6 carbon atoms; in particular, the monosaccharide units are linked together via 1,4 or 1,6 bonds as α (alpha) or β (beta) anomers, and each sugar unit can be in L or D configuration, and their salts and their solvates, such as hydrates of the monosaccharides; more specifically, they are of the general formula: -[Cx(H2O)y)]w- or -[(CH2O)x]w-, (where x is an integer of 5 or more, preferably x is 6 or more, particularly x is 5 to 7 (including both ends), preferably x = 6, y is an integer representing x - 1, w is an integer of 2 or more, particularly 3 to 3000 (including both ends), more particularly 5 to 2500, preferably 10 to 2300, particularly 15 to 1000 (including both ends), more particularly 20 to 500, preferably 25 to 200) and are polymers formed from a certain number of sugars (or monosaccharides).

[0170] Preferably, the polysaccharide is a thickening polymer.

[0171] The term "thickening polymer" means a polymer that can achieve a viscosity of at least 100 cps, preferably at least 500 cps, at a shear rate of 25 °C and 1 s when introduced at 1% by mass into an alcoholic or lipoalcoholic solution containing 50% ethanol or into an oil selected from liquid petrolatum, isopropyl myristate, octyldodecanol or cyclopentadimethylsiloxane. This viscosity can be measured using a cone / plate viscometer (such as a Haake R600 rheometer). -1 ​

[0172] Polysaccharides useful in the present invention may be substituted with one or more atoms or groups a), f), g), h), i), j), l) as defined below, and / or p) (di)alkylamino and / or optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups a') to c') as defined below, and modified by the presence of at least one hydrocarbon-based aliphatic chain containing 2 to 30 carbon atoms, which is cyclic or acyclic, straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or non-aromatic, and is a cationic, non-ionic, anionic or amphoteric polymer, preferably a cationic, non-ionic or anionic polymer, more preferably a further non-ionic polymer. i) linear or branched (C5-C28) alkyl, ii) linear or branched (C5-C28) alkenyl, iii) linear or branched (C5-C28) alkynyl, preferably the hydrocarbon-based group is linear; a) halogen such as chlorine or bromine, f) (thio)carboxamide -C(O)-N(Ra)2 or -C(S)-N(Ra)2, g) cyano, h) iso(thio)cyanate, i) (hetero)aryl such as phenyl or furyl, and j) (hetero)cycloalkyl such as anhydride, epoxide or dithiolane, l) α-cycloalkyl such as cyclohexyl, β-heterocycloalkyl such as sugar, preferably monosaccharide such as glucose, γ-(hetero)aryl such as phenyl, δ-cosmetic active agent, m) thiosulfate, and a') O, S, N(Ra) or Si(Rb)(Rc), b') S(O) r , or X representing (thio)carbonyl, c') or a combination of a') and b'), for example, (thio)ester, (thio)amide, (thio)urea or sulfonamide; Ra representing a hydrogen atom, or a (C1-C4) alkyl group, or an aryl(C1-C4) alkyl group such as benzyl, preferably Ra represents a hydrogen atom; Rb and Rc may be the same or different and each represents a (C1-C4) alkyl or (C1-C4) alkoxy group, particularly representing only one substituent; and / or a') O, S, N(Ra), and Si(Rb)(Rc), b') S(O) r, (thio)carbonyl, heteroatoms such as c’), or a combination of a’) and b’), for example (thio)esters, (thio)amides, (thio)ureas or sulfonamides (wherein r is equal to 1 or 2, Ra is as defined above, preferably Ra represents a hydrogen atom, and Rb and Rc are as defined above).

[0173] "Polysaccharide" is as defined above, and further, sugar unit -[C x (H2O) y )] w - or -[(CH2O) x w - is optionally modified by substitution, oxidation, dehydration, and / or reduction.

[0174] Sugar units of polysaccharides useful in the present invention preferably include glucose, galactose, arabinose, rhamnose, mannose, xylose, fucose, anhydrogalactose, galacturonic acid, glucuronic acid, mannuronic acid, galactose sulfate, anhydrogalactose sulfate, and fructose.

[0175] In particular, modified polysaccharides of natural rubber (for example, those derived from exudates of trees or shrubs, algae, seeds or tubers, fungi, bacteria, animal organisms or plants), which are modified by physical or chemical or enzymatic reactions, can be mentioned.

[0176] Natural rubber can be selected from the following: - Acacia gum (a branched polysaccharide of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); - Gatti gum (a polymer derived from arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose and glucuronic acid); - Karaya gum (a polymer derived from galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); - Tragacanth gum (a polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose and arabinose); - Agar (a polymer derived from galactose and anhydrogalactose);​ - Alginates (polymers of mannuronic acid and glucuronic acid); - Carrageenans and furcellarans (polymers of galactose sulfate and anhydrogalactose sulfate); - Guar gum (a polymer of mannose and galactose); - Locust bean gum (a polymer of mannose and galactose); - Fenugreek gum (a polymer of mannose and galactose); - Tamarind gum (a polymer of galactose, xylose and glucose); - Konjac gum (a polymer of glucose and mannose); - Xanthan gum (a polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose / pyruvate and glucuronic acid) or dehydroxanthan gum; - Gellan gum (a polymer of partially acylated glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); - Scleroglucan gum (a glucose polymer); - Cellulose (a glucose polymer); - Starch (a glucose polymer); - Inulin and - Pectin.

[0177] In particular, the modified polysaccharide is i) acacia gum; ii) ghatti gum; iii) karaya gum; iv) tragacanth gum; v) agar; vi) alginate; vii) carrageenan and furcellaran; viii) guar gum; ix) locust bean gum; x) fenugreek gum; xi) tamarind gum; xii) konjac gum; xiii) xanthan gum or dehydroxanthan gum; xiv) gellan gum; xv) scleroglucan gum; xvi) cellulose; xvii) starch; xviii) inulin; and xix) pectin; preferably selected from xvi), xvii) and xviii), more preferably obtained from xvii).

[0178] The starch molecule xvii) used in the present invention may have a cereal plant or tuber of plant origin. Thus, the starch may be selected, for example, from the starches of corn, rice, manioc, barley, potato, wheat, sorghum and lentils. The starch may be modified chemically or physically: in particular, by one or more of the following reactions: gelatinization, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, etherification, amidation, heat treatment.

[0179] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the modified polysaccharide is nonionic.

[0180] These polymers may be modified chemically or physically. A physical treatment that may be particularly mentioned is temperature.

[0181] Examples of chemical treatments may include esterification, etherification, amidation, oxidation, metathesis and addition reactions. These treatments may make it possible to produce polymers that may be particularly nonionic, anionic or amphoteric. Preferably, these chemical or physical treatments are applied to guar gum, locust bean gum, starch and cellulose.

[0182] The modifiable starch molecule that may be used to produce the modified starch according to the present invention may have a cereal plant or tuber of plant origin. Thus, the starch may be selected, for example, from the starches of corn, rice, manioc, barley, potato, wheat, sorghum and lentils.

[0183] The starch may be modified chemically or physically: in particular, by one or more of the following reactions: gelatinization, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, etherification, amidation, heat treatment.

[0184] The starch molecule xvii) can be derived from any plant source of starch, especially corn, potato, oats, rice, tapioca, sorghum, barley or wheat, etc., which are modified to link at least one hydrocarbon-based aliphatic chain that is cyclic or acyclic, straight-chain or branched-chain, saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or non-aromatic, and contains 6 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with one or more atoms or groups a), f), g), h), i), j), l) as defined above. And / or p) (di)alkylamino and / or interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups a') to c') as defined above. The above-mentioned hydrolysis products of starch may be used. The modified starch is preferably derived from potato starch.

[0185] According to one embodiment, the modified polysaccharide is a polysaccharide ether called alkyl polysaccharide, and the alkyl group contains 2 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 10 carbon atoms, more preferably 2 to 6 carbon atoms. Preferably, the alkyl polysaccharide b) according to the present invention is derived from cellulose or guar or a mixture thereof.

[0186] According to one embodiment, the modified polysaccharide is an alkyl cellulose in which the straight-chain or branched-chain alkyl residue contains 1 to 10 carbon atoms, especially 2 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 3 carbon atoms. Alkyl cellulose is an alkyl ether of cellulose containing chains composed of β-glucopyranose units linked to each other by acetal bonds. Each anhydroglucose unit has 3 substitutable hydroxyl groups, and all or part of these hydroxyl groups can be reacted according to the following reaction: Cell-OM+R-Hal→Cell-OR+MHal In the formula, Hal represents a halogen such as Cl, M represents a cationic counterion such as an alkali metal Na or K, or an alkaline earth metal, preferably an alkali metal such as Na, Cell represents a polysaccharide radical, for example cellulose. In the formula, R represents a linear or branched alkyl group containing 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 3 carbon atoms, for example methyl or ethyl, and MHal represents the generated salt, for example sodium chloride.

[0187] Advantageously, the alkylcellulose is selected from ethylcellulose and propylcellulose. According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the alkylcellulose is ethylcellulose. This is the ethyl ether of cellulose.

[0188] The total substitution of the three hydroxyl groups results in a degree of substitution of 3, in other words a content of alkoxy groups of 40% - 60%, especially about 55% (54.88%) per anhydroglucose unit.

[0189] The ethylcellulose polymer used in the composition according to the invention preferably has a degree of substitution at the ethoxy groups of the polymer in the range of 2.5 to 2.6 per anhydroglucose unit, in other words it contains an ethoxy group content in the range of 44% - 50%.

[0190] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the modified polysaccharide of the invention is ethylcellulose in powder form. For example, it is sold under the trade name Ethocel Standard by Dow Chemicals, in particular Ethocel Standard 7 FP Premium and Ethocel Standard 100 FP Premium. Other commercially available products, for example those sold by Ashland, Inc. under the names Aqualon Ethylcellulose type-K, type-N and type-T, preferably type-N, for example N7, N100, are particularly suitable for the implementation of the present invention.

[0191] According to another embodiment, the polysaccharide ether is an alkyl guar modified by substituting the hydrogen of the hydroxyl with a linear or branched alkyl group containing 1 to 10 carbon atoms, particularly 2 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 3 carbon atoms, for example 2 carbon atoms, that is, guar gum viii). The alkyl guar polymer used in the composition C1 or C'1 according to the invention is preferably ethyl guar.

[0192] Ethyl guar is known by the INCI name: -C1-C5 alkyl galactomannan.

[0193] More specifically, it has a degree of substitution of 2 to 3, particularly 2.5 to 2.8. Alkylated guar gums (having C1-C6 alkyl groups) containing ethyl guar are particularly described in the patent application European Patent No. 708114 and the document RD9537807 (October 1995) together with their preparation processes.

[0194] According to one embodiment, the modified polysaccharide b) is an ester obtained by the reaction of at least one polysaccharide such as a polysaccharide ester, particularly dextrin, with at least one saturated or unsaturated acid having a linear or branched chain containing 2 to 30 carbon atoms, particularly 10 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0195] According to a specific embodiment, the modified polysaccharide of the present invention is selected from: xvi) cellulose or its derivatives, such as hydroxy (C1-C5) alkyl cellulose, xvii) starch, and xviii) inulin. The polysaccharides xvi), xvii), and xviii) contain at least one C8-C 30 fatty chain, such as an alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl, or a mixture thereof, where the alkyl group is a linear or branched, preferably linear C8-C 30 alkyl group, particularly:

[0196] According to certain embodiments of the present invention, the modified polysaccharide is selected from sugars or polysaccharide monoalkyl or polyalkyl esters. Among the sugars or polysaccharide monoalkyl or polyalkyl esters suitable for use in the present invention, dextrin, or inulin alkyl, or polyalkyl esters may be mentioned. In particular, it can be a monoester or polyester of dextrin (dextrin is derived from starch xvii) and at least one fatty acid (such as R-C(O)-OH), and in particular corresponds to the following formula (XVIII): [Chemical formula] In formula (XVIII): · n is an integer of 2 or more, preferably in the range of 3 to 200, particularly in the range of 20 to 150, and particularly in the range of 25 to 50, · R1, R2 and R3 may be the same or different and are selected from hydrogen or an acyl group (R-C(O)-); the group R is a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group containing 7 to 29 carbon atoms, particularly 7 to 21 carbon atoms, particularly 11 to 19 carbon atoms, more particularly 13 to 17 carbon atoms or even 15 carbon atoms, and it is understood that at least one of the groups R1, R2 or R3 is other than hydrogen. In particular, R1, R2 and R3 may represent a hydrogen atom or an acyl group (R-C(O)-), wherein R is a hydrocarbon-based group as described previously, provided that at least two of the groups R1, R2 or R3 are other than hydrogen. R1, R2 and R3 may all represent the same or different acyl groups (R-C(O)), and the acyl groups are particularly the same. In particular, n as described above is preferably in the range of 25 to 50 and particularly equal to 38 in the general formula of the sugar ester that can be used in the present invention.

[0197] In particular, when the R1, R2 and / or R3 groups, which may be the same or different, represent an acyl group (R-C(O)), preferably it is obtained from a fatty carboxylic acid R-C(O)OH selected from caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid, isobutyric acid, isovaleric acid, 2-ethylbutyric acid, ethylmethylacetic acid, isonanoic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, isononanoic acid, isodecanoic acid, isotridecanoic acid, isomyristic acid, isopalmitic acid, isostearic acid, isoarachidic acid, isohexanoic acid, decenoic acid, dodecenoic acid, tetradecenoic acid, myristoleic acid, hexadecenoic acid, palmitoleic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, asclepic acid, gondoic acid, eicosenoic acid, sorbic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, punica acid, stearidonic acid, arachidonic acid and stearolic acid groups and mixtures thereof.

[0198] Preferably, at least one palmitic acid dextrin is used as a fatty acid ester of dextrin. This ester can be used alone or as a mixture with other esters. Advantageously, the fatty acid ester of dextrin has a degree of substitution in the range of 2.5 or less, particularly 1.5 to 2.5, preferably 2 to 2.5, based on glucose units. The mass average molecular weight of the dextrin ester can be particularly 10,000 to 150,000, particularly 12,000 to 100,000, and further 15,000 to 80,000.

[0199] Preferably, the modified polysaccharide of the present invention is a dextrin ester, preferably palmitic acid dextrin.

[0200] Dextrin esters, particularly palmitic acid dextrin, are commercially available from Chiba Flour under the names Rheopearl KL2 (registered trademark), MKL2 (registered trademark), TL (registered trademark) or KL (registered trademark).

[0201] According to one embodiment, the modified polysaccharide is a modified dextrin, preferably a dextrin ester, more particularly a saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C of dextrin 12~C 24 It is a fatty acid ester.

[0202] Preferably, the dextrin ester is a saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C such as myristic acid, palmitic acid or a mixture thereof 14 ~C 24 An ester of a fatty acid is selected.

[0203] According to one embodiment, the dextrin ester is selected from palmitic acid dextrin such as Rheopearl KL2 (registered trademark) and Rheopearl TL2 (registered trademark) sold by Chiba Flour, myristic acid dextrin such as the product sold by Chiba Flour under the reference Rheopearl MKL2 (registered trademark), palmitic acid dextrin / ethylhexanoate sold under the reference Rheopearl TT2 (registered trademark), palmitic acid dextrin / hexyl decanoate sold under the reference Rheopearl WX, or a mixture thereof. According to a preferred embodiment, the modified polysaccharide is palmitic acid dextrin.

[0204] According to one embodiment, the modified polysaccharide is modified inulin, preferably inulin ester, more specifically an ester of inulin and a saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C 12 ~C 24 fatty acid. Preferably, the inulin ester is selected from esters of saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C such as myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, preferably stearic acid, and mixtures thereof 14 ~C 24 of fatty acids.

[0205] According to one embodiment, the inulin ester is stearoyl inulin such as reference Rheopearl ISK2 (registered trademark) and Rheopearl ISL2 (registered trademark) sold by Chiba Flour or a mixture thereof.

[0206] According to one embodiment, the modified polysaccharide is modified cellulose, preferably cellulose ester, more specifically an ester of cellulose and a saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C2-C 24 acid.

[0207] Preferably, the cellulose ester is selected from esters of saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C2-C 10 acids, preferably C2-C6 acids, especially C2-C4 acids such as acetic acid, butyric acid or mixtures thereof.

[0208] According to one embodiment, the cellulose ester is cellulose acetate butyrate such as the reference Eastman Cellulose Acetate Butyrate (registered trademark) sold by Eastman Chemical. Among the polysaccharide esters, pullulan ester can also be mentioned. Pullulan is a polysaccharide composed of maltotriose units.

[0209] According to one embodiment, the modified polysaccharide is a polysaccharide ester.

[0210] The term "polysaccharide ester" means a polysaccharide in which at least one of the hydroxyl radicals is esterified with an acid to form an -O-C(O)-R or -C(O)-OR ester group, and R represents a saturated or unsaturated radical of 2 to 30 carbon atoms, especially 11 to 19 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 17 carbon atoms, for example 13 carbon atoms.

[0211] Advantageously, the polysaccharide ester is myristoyl pullulan.

[0212] According to another embodiment, the modified polysaccharide of the present invention is cationic. Preferably, these chemical or physical treatments for obtaining at least one cationic group are applied to guar gum, locust bean gum, starch and cellulose.

[0213] The cationic group can be of primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine type, preferably quaternary, and C6-C 30It contains an aliphatic chain.

[0214] According to certain embodiments of the present invention, the modified polysaccharide is selected from quaternized (poly) hydroxyethyl cellulose modified with a group containing at least one aliphatic chain (or fatty chain), such as an alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl group, or a mixture thereof, containing at least 8 carbon atoms. The alkyl group carried by the quaternized cellulose or hydroxyethyl cellulose preferably contains 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The aryl group preferably represents a phenyl group, a benzyl group, a naphthyl group or an anthryl group. C8 - C 30 Examples of quaternized alkyl hydroxyethyl cellulose having a fatty chain are Quatrisoft LM 200 (registered trademark), Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18-A (registered trademark), Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18-B (registered trademark) (C 12 alkyl) and Quatrisoft LM-X 529-8 (registered trademark) (C 18 alkyl) products sold by Dow Corning, Crodacel QM (registered trademark), Crodacel QL (registered trademark) (C 12 alkyl) and Crodacel QS (registered trademark) (C 18 alkyl) products, and the Softcat SL 100 (registered trademark) product sold by Dow Corning.

[0215] The non-ionic guar gum that can be used according to the present invention can be modified with a C1 - C 20 (poly) hydroxyalkylammonium group, preferably a C1 - C6 (poly) hydroxyalkyl group. Examples include hydroxymethyltrimonium, hydroxyethyltrimonium, hydroxypropyltrimonium, and hydroxybutyltrimonium halide groups, preferably hydroxypropyltrimonium halide, preferably chloride.

[0216] Such cationic guar gums modified with hydroxyalkylammonium groups are sold by Solvay, for example, under the trade names Cationic Jaguar® C-14S Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride F, Jaguar® C-13S Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride F, Jaguar® C-17 Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Jaguar® Excel Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Jaguar® C-500 STD Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Jaguar® C-162 Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Jaguar® Optima Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, and Jaguar® LS Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride.

[0217] Preferably, the modified polysaccharide is selected from the following: - a polysaccharide ether called alkyl polysaccharide, in which the alkyl group contains 2 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 10 carbon atoms, more preferably 2 to 6 carbon atoms; preferably derived from cellulose or guar or a mixture thereof; preferably, the modified polysaccharide is an alkyl cellulose in which the linear or branched alkyl residue contains 1 to 10 carbon atoms, especially 2 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 3 carbon atoms. Preferably selected from ethyl cellulose and propyl cellulose, and preferably the alkyl cellulose is ethyl cellulose; and - a polysaccharide ester; and mixtures thereof.

[0218] Preferably, the modified polysaccharide is selected from the following: dextrin palmitate, myristoyl pullulan, ethyl cellulose, ethyl guar, and mixtures thereof.

[0219] The total amount of the modified polysaccharide present in the composition according to the present invention is in the range of 0.05% to 20% by mass, more preferably 0.1% to 15% by mass, even more preferably 0.2% to 12% by mass, and particularly preferably 0.5% to 10% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0220] Preferably, the mass ratio of the total amount of the resin present in the composition to the total amount of the modified polysaccharide is in the range of 0.05 to 200, more preferably 0.1 to 100, even more preferably 0.2 to 50, or more preferably 0.5 to 40, preferably 0.5 to 20, and preferably 1 to 10.

[0221] Any other component of the oily phase Wax According to certain embodiments, the composition of the present invention comprises one or more waxes.

[0222] The term "wax" means a lipophilic compound that is solid at room temperature (25°C), whose state reversibly changes between solid / liquid, and has a melting point of 30°C or higher, which can be up to 200°C, particularly up to 120°C.

[0223] In particular, the wax suitable for use in the present invention can have a melting point of 45°C or higher, particularly 55°C or higher. The composition according to the present invention preferably contains a wax content in the range of 0.2% to 30%, particularly 0.5% to 20%, and more particularly 1% to 15% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0224] According to certain aspects of the present invention, the composition of the present invention is solid, particularly anhydrous. Thus, it can be in the form of a stick.

[0225] Paste-like compound According to certain embodiments, the composition of the present invention comprises one or more paste-like compounds.

[0226] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "pasty compound" means a lipophilic fatty compound having a reversible solid / liquid state change, having an anisotropic crystalline structure in the solid state, and containing a liquid fraction and a solid fraction at a temperature of 23 °C.

[0227] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more volatile oils, one or more non-volatile oils, optionally water, and optionally one or more organic solvents other than oil a) and alcohol b) as defined according to the present invention.

[0228] Advantageously, the total content of the oily phase is in the range of 5% to 100%, preferably 10% by mass to 98% by mass, preferably 20% by mass to 95% by mass, preferably 30% by mass to 60% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0229] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the composition comprises at least one continuous oily phase having the composition defined above.

[0230] According to a first embodiment, the composition of the present invention is in the form of an oily composition, in particular an anhydrous oily composition, such as an oily dispersion or an oily solution.

[0231] According to a second embodiment of the present invention, the composition further has an aqueous phase.

[0232] Advantageously, the total content of the oily phase is in the range of 5% to 100%, preferably 10% by mass to 98% by mass, preferably 20% by mass to 90% by mass, preferably 30% by mass to 80% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0233] Aqueous phase The aqueous phase comprises water and optionally water-soluble or water-miscible components, such as water-soluble solvents.

[0234] Suitable water for the present invention can be floral water such as cornflower water and / or mineral water such as Vittel water, Lucas water or La Roche-Posay water and / or thermal water.

[0235] In the present invention, the term "water-soluble solvent" means a compound that is liquid at ambient temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water exceeds 50% by mass at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure).

[0236] The water-soluble solvent that can be used in the composition of the present invention can also be volatile.

[0237] In particular, among the water-soluble solvents that can be used in the composition according to the present invention, lower monoalcohols having 1 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols having 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, propanediol, pentylene glycol, glycerol and dipropylene glycol, C3-C4 ketones and C2-C4 aldehydes, etc. can be mentioned. The aqueous phase is present at a concentration preferably in the range of 2% by mass to 95% by mass, preferably 10% by mass to 90% by mass, preferably 20% by mass to 80% by mass, more specifically 30% by mass to 60% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0238] Surfactant According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the composition also comprises one or more surfactants, preferably non-ionic or ionic surfactants or mixtures thereof. According to another particular embodiment of the present invention, the composition does not comprise any surfactant.

[0239] The term "surfactant" means a compound that modifies the surface tension between two surfaces. Surfactants are amphiphilic molecules that have two parts with different polarities, one part is non-polar and lipophilic (retaining fatty substances), and the other hydrophilic part (miscible or soluble in water) is polar. The lipophilic part is generally a fatty chain, and the other water-miscible part is polar and / or protic. The term "ionic" means anionic, cationic, amphoteric or zwitterionic.

[0240] The term "fatty chain" means a straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based chain containing more than 6 atoms, preferably 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0241] Emulsifying surfactants are characterized by the value of their HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance), which is the ratio of the hydrophilic part to the lipophilic part in the molecule. "HLB" is the ratio between the hydrophilic part and the lipophilic part of the molecule and is described, for example, in "The HLB system. A time-saving guide to Emulsifier Selection" (published by ICI Americas Inc; 1984). For emulsifying surfactants, the HLB is generally in the range of 3 to 8 for preparing W / O emulsions. The HLB of the surfactants used according to the present invention can be determined by the Griffin method or the Davis method.

[0242] According to a first specific embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one silicone or non-silicone non-ionic surfactant.

[0243] Among the nonionic surfactants according to the present invention, mention may be made, alone or as a mixture, of fatty alcohols, α-diols and alkylphenols, these three compounds being polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated and / or polyglycerolized, for example containing a fatty chain having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide groups or propylene oxide groups being able to be in particular in the range from 2 to 50, and the number of glycerol groups being able to be in particular in the range from 2 to 30. Copolymers of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide; condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably containing from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; polyglycerolized fatty amides containing on average from 1 to 5, in particular from 1.5 to 4, glycerol groups; oxyethylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan containing from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; fatty acid esters of sucrose; fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol; alkyl polyglycosides; N-alkylglucamine derivatives; (C 10 ~C 14 ) amine oxides such as alkylamine oxides and N-acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides can also be mentioned.

[0244] The surfactant represents, in particular in total, from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, still better from 1% to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0245] Pigment According to a particular aspect of the invention, the composition further comprises at least one pigment.

[0246] The term "pigment" means white or colored inorganic or organic particles that are insoluble in an aqueous medium and are intended to color and / or opacify the resulting composition and / or deposit. These pigments can be white or colored and can be inorganic and / or organic.

[0247] Preferably, the composition contains at least 2% pigment, preferably at least 5% by weight of pigment, more preferably 5% to 40% by weight of pigment, particularly 10% to 30% by weight of pigment, preferably 9% to 20% by weight of pigment, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0248] According to certain embodiments, the pigments used in accordance with the present invention are selected from inorganic pigments.

[0249] The term "inorganic pigment" means any pigment that meets the definition in the chapter on inorganic pigments in Ullmann’s encyclopedia. Among the inorganic pigments used in the present invention, there may be mentioned zirconium oxide or cerium oxide and also zinc oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide or aluminum powder and metal powders such as copper powder. The following inorganic pigments: Ta2O5, Ti3O5, Ti2O3, TiO, ZrO2 as a mixture with TiO2, ZrO2, Nb2O5, CeO2 or ZnS may also be used.

[0250] The diameter of the pigments useful in connection with the present invention can generally range from above 100 nm up to 10 μm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 μm, more preferably from 300 nm to 1 μm.

[0251] According to certain forms of the present invention, the pigments have a size characterized by a D

[50] in the range above 100 nm, optionally up to a maximum of 10 μm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 μm, more preferably from 300 nm to 1 μm.

[0252] The size is measured by static light scattering using a commercially available particle size analyzer of the MasterSizer 3000 (registered trademark) type from Malvern, whereby the particle size distribution of all particles over a wide range from 0.01 μm to 1000 μm can be determined. The data is processed based on Mie scattering theory. This theory is most suitable for particle size distributions in the sub-micron to several micron range; it enables the effective particle diameter to be measured. This theory is described in publications by, in particular, Van de Hulst, H.C., Light Scattering by Small Particles, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0253] D

[50] represents the maximum size that 50% of the particle volume has. In the context of the present invention, the inorganic pigment is more particularly iron oxide and / or titanium dioxide. As examples, titanium dioxide and iron oxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate can be more specifically mentioned, for example, sold under the reference name NAI (registered trademark) by MIYOSHI KASEI. Mother-of-pearl can also be mentioned as an inorganic pigment that can be used in the present invention.

[0254] The term "mother-of-pearl" should be understood to mean any form of colored particles that may or may not have luster, are produced or synthesized in particular in the outer shell of a specific mollusk, and have a color effect by light interference.

[0255] Mother-of-pearl can be selected from nacreous luster pigments, such as titanium mica coated with iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye, and further nacreous luster pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They can also be mica particles with at least two continuous layers of metal oxide and / or organic dye superimposed on their surface.

[0256] Further examples of nacre that can be mentioned include natural mica coated with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigments or bismuth oxychloride.

[0257] Among commercially available nacres, mention may be made of Timica® (registered trademark), Flamenco® (registered trademark) and Duochrome® (registered trademark) (based on mica), Timiron® (registered trademark) nacres sold by Engelhard, Prestige® (registered trademark) mica-based nacres sold by Eckart, and Sunshine® (registered trademark) synthetic mica-based nacres sold by Sun Chemical.

[0258] Nacre may more particularly have colors or color shades of yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or copper.

[0259] Examples of nacre that can be used in the context of the present invention include, in particular, gold nacre sold under the names Brilliant gold 212G (registered trademark) (Timica), Gold 222C (registered trademark) (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (registered trademark) (Timica), Gold 4504 (registered trademark) (Chromalite), and Monarch gold 233X (registered trademark) (Cloisonne) by Engelhard; bronze nacre sold under the names Bronze fine (registered trademark) (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (registered trademark) (17353) (Colorona) by Merck and under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne) by Engelhard; orange nacre sold under the names Orange 363C (registered trademark) (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (registered trademark) (Cosmica) by Engelhard and under the names Passion orange (registered trademark) (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (registered trademark) (Microna) by Merck; brownish nacre sold under the names Nu-antique copper 340XB (registered trademark) (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (registered trademark) (Chromalite) by Engelhard; nacre having a copper color sold under the name Copper 340A (registered trademark) (Timica) by Engelhard; pinkish nacre sold by Merck under the name Sienna fine (registered trademark) (17386) (Colorona); yellowish nacre sold under the name Yellow (4502) (registered trademark) (Chromalite) by Engelhard; red nacre having a golden hue sold under the name Sunstone G012 (registered trademark) (Gemtone) by Engelhard; pink nacre sold under the name Tan opal G005 (registered trademark) (Gemtone) by Engelhard.Particularly, black mother-of-pearl with a golden hue sold under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (registered trademark) (Timica) from Engelhard; particularly, blue mother-of-pearl sold under the name Matte Blue (registered trademark) (17433) (Microna) from Merck; particularly, white mother-of-pearl with a silver hue sold under the name Xirona Silver (registered trademark) from Merck; and, particularly, yellowish-green pinkish orange mother-of-pearl sold under the name Indian summer (registered trademark) (Xirona) by Merck and mixtures thereof.

[0260] Among the pigments that can be used according to the present invention, there may be mentioned optical effects different from simple conventional coloring effects, i.e., effects having a unified and stabilized effect such as those produced by conventional dyes such as single-color pigments. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "stabilized" means that there is no influence of color variation according to the viewing angle or temperature change.

[0261] For example, this material can be selected from particles having a metallic luster, goniochromatic colorants, diffraction pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brighteners and also fibers, particularly interference fibers. Of course, these various materials can be combined so as to provide a simultaneous display of two effects, indeed even the novel effects according to the present invention. The metallic particles that can be used in the present invention are particularly selected from the following: - particles of at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative, - particles comprising an organic or inorganic substrate of a single material or a composite material and coated with at least one layer having a metallic luster containing at least in part at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative; and - mixtures of said particles.

[0262] Among the metals that may be present in the particles, for example, Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te, and Se, as well as mixtures or alloys thereof, may be mentioned. Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo, Cr, and mixtures or alloys thereof (for example, bronze and brass) are preferred metals.

[0263] The term "metal derivative" refers to compounds derived from metals, particularly oxides, fluorides, chlorides, and sulfides.

[0264] Examples of these particles that may be mentioned include aluminum particles such as those sold under the name Starbrite 1200 EAC® by Silberline and those sold under the name Metalure® by Eckart.

[0265] Metal powders of copper or alloy mixtures, such as reference symbol 2844 sold by Radium Bronze, metal pigments, such as aluminum or bronze, such as those sold under the name Rotosafe 700® by Eckart, silica-coated aluminum particles sold under the name Visionaire Bright Silver® by Eckart, and metal alloy particles, such as silica-coated bronze (an alloy of copper and zinc) powder sold under the name Visionaire Bright Natural Gold® by Eckart, may also be mentioned.

[0266] They may also be particles containing a glass substrate, such as those sold by Nippon Sheet Glass under the name Microglass Metashine®.

[0267] The goniochromatic colorant may be selected, for example, from multilayer interference structures and liquid crystal colorants.

[0268] Examples of symmetric multilayer interference structures that can be used in the compositions prepared according to the present invention are, for example, the following structures: Al / SiO2 / Al / SiO2 / Al (pigments having this structure are sold by DuPont de Nemours); Cr / MgF2 / Al / MgF2 / Cr (pigments having this structure are sold by Flex under the name Chromaflair®); MoS2 / SiO2 / Al / SiO2 / MoS2; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Al / SiO2 / Fe2O3, and Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3 (pigments having these structures are sold by BASF under the name Sicopearl®); MoS2 / SiO2 / mica-oxide / SiO2 / MoS2; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / mica-oxide / SiO2 / Fe2O3; TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 and TiO2 / Al2O3 / TiO2; SnO / TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 / SnO; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3; SnO / mica / TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 / mica / SnO (pigments having these structures are sold by Merck (Darmstadt) under the name Xirona®). By way of example, these pigments can be pigments having a silica / titanium oxide / tin oxide structure sold by Merck under the name Xirona Magic®, pigments having a silica / brown iron oxide structure sold by Merck under the name Xirona Indian Summer®, and pigments having a silica / titanium oxide / mica / tin oxide structure sold by Merck under the name Xirona Caribbean Blue®. Also mentionable are the Infinite Colors pigments from Shiseido. Different effects are obtained depending on the thickness and properties of the various layers. Thus, when using the Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Al / SiO2 / Fe2O3 structure, the color in the SiO2 layer of 320 - 350 nm changes from greenish gold to reddish gray; in the SiO2 layer of 380 - 400 nm, it changes from red to gold; in the SiO2 layer of 410 - 420 nm, it changes from purple to green; and in the SiO2 layer of 430 - 440 nm, it changes from copper color to red.

[0269] Examples of pigments having a polymer multilayer structure include those sold by 3M under the name Color Glitter®.

[0270] As the liquid crystal goniochromatic particles, those sold by Chenix, for example, and those sold by Wacker under the name Helicone® HC can be used.

[0271] Hydrophobically coated pigments According to a form of the characteristics of the present invention, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one pigment coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound, in particular at least one pigment as described in detail below.

[0272] This type of pigment is particularly advantageous as long as it can be considered in large amounts together with a large amount of water. Furthermore, as long as they are treated with a hydrophobic compound, they show a significant affinity for the gelled oil phase, which can transport them at a later stage.

[0273] Naturally, the composition according to the present invention may simultaneously contain uncoated pigments.

[0274] The coating may also contain at least one additional non-lipophilic compound.

[0275] For the purposes of the present invention, the "coating" of the pigment according to the present invention generally represents the overall or partial surface treatment of the pigment with a surfactant that is absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto the pigment.

[0276] The surface-treated pigments can be prepared according to surface treatment techniques of chemical, electronic, mechanochemical or mechanical properties well known to those skilled in the art. Commercially available products can also be used. The surface treatment agent can be absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto the pigment by evaporation of the solvent, chemical reaction and formation of covalent bonds.

[0277] According to one variant form, the surface treatment consists of coating the pigment.

[0278] The coating can represent 0.1% to 20% by weight, in particular 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total mass of the pigment coated.

[0279] The coating can be brought about, for example, by adsorption of the liquid surfactant onto the surface of the solid particles by simply mixing the solid particles and the liquid surfactant while stirring, optionally with heating, before incorporation of the particles into the other raw materials of the makeup or care composition.

[0280] The coating can be brought about, for example, by chemical reaction between the surfactant and the surface of the solid pigment particles and formation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the particles. This method is described in particular in US Patent No. 4,578,266.

[0281] The chemical surface treatment may consist of diluting the surfactant in a volatile solvent, dispersing the pigment in this mixture and then slowly evaporating the volatile solvent, so that the surfactant is deposited on the surface of the pigment.

[0282] Lipophilic or hydrophobic treatment agent When the pigment contains a lipophilic or hydrophobic coating, the latter is preferably present in the fatty phase of the composition according to the invention.

[0283] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigment can be coated with at least one compound selected from silicone surfactants; fluorinated surfactants; fluorosilicone surfactants; metal soaps; N-acyl amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl titanium triisostearate; isostearyl sebacate; natural plant or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof, according to the invention.

[0284] Silicone surface treatment agent According to certain embodiments, the pigment can be fully or partially surface-treated with a silicone-based compound.

[0285] The silicone surfactant can be selected from organopolysiloxanes, silane derivatives, silicone-acrylate copolymers, silicone resins, and mixtures thereof.

[0286] The term "organopolysiloxane compound" means a compound having a structure in which silicon atoms and oxygen atoms are arranged alternately and containing an organic radical bonded to the silicon atom.

[0287] Non-elastomeric organopolysiloxane In particular, examples of non-elastomeric organopolysiloxanes include polydimethylsiloxane, polymethylhydrogensiloxane, and polyalkoxydimethylsiloxane. The alkoxy group can be represented by an R-O- group where R represents a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl, 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl group, an aryl group such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl, or a substituted aryl group such as phenylethyl.

[0288] One way to enable surface treatment of the pigment with polymethylhydrogensiloxane involves dispersing the pigment in an organic solvent and then adding the silicone compound. Heating the mixture results in covalent bonds being formed between the silicone compound and the surface of the pigment.

[0289] According to a preferred embodiment, the silicone surface treatment agent can be a non-elastomeric organopolysiloxane, particularly selected from polydimethylsiloxane.

[0290] Alkylsilanes and alkoxysilanes Silanes having alkoxy functionality are described, in particular, by Witucki in A Silane Primer, Chemistry and Applications of Alkoxysilanes, Journal of Coatings Technology, 65, 822, pages 57 - 60, 1993.

[0291] Alkoxysilanes such as alkyltriethoxysilane and alkyltrimethoxysilane sold under the reference symbols Milquet A - 137 (registered trademark) (OSI Specialities) and Prosil 9202 (registered trademark) (PCR) can be used to coat pigments.

[0292] The use of alkylpolysiloxanes having reactive end groups such as alkoxy, hydroxyl, halogen, amino or imino is described in Japanese Patent Application Laid - Open No. 07 - 196946. They are also suitable for treating pigments.

[0293] Silicone - acrylate polymer Grafted silicone - acrylate polymers having a silicone backbone described in U.S. Patent No. 5725882, U.S. Patent No. 5209924, U.S. Patent No. 4972037, U.S. Patent No. 4,981,903, U.S. Patent No. 4,981,902, U.S. Patent No. 5,468,477, as well as U.S. Patent No. 5,219,560 and European Patent No. 0388582 can be used.

[0294] Other silicone - acrylate polymers can be silicone polymers containing units of the following formula (II) in their structure: [Chemical formula 11]

Chemical formula

[0295] Preferably, the unit of formula (I) has at least one, more preferably all, of the following characteristics: - The G1 group represents an alkyl group, preferably a methyl group; - n is non-zero, and the G2 group represents a divalent C1-C3 group, preferably a propylene group; - G3 represents a polymer group resulting from the (homo)polymerization of at least one monomer of the ethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid type, preferably acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid; - G4 represents a polymer group resulting from the (homo)polymerization of at least one monomer of the (C1-C 10 )alkyl(meth)acrylate type, preferably of the isobutyl or methyl(meth)acrylate type.

[0296] Examples of silicone polymers corresponding to formula (I) are, in particular, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) in which poly(meth)acrylate-type and polymethyl(meth)acrylate-type mixed polymer units are grafted thereto via thiopropylene-type linking links.

[0297] Other examples of silicone polymers corresponding to formula (I) are, in particular, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) in which polyisobutyl(meth)acrylate-type polymer units are grafted thereto via thiopropylene-type linking links.

[0298] Silicone resin The silicone surfactant may be selected from the silicone resins defined above.

[0299] Fluorinated surface treatment agent Pigments can be surface-treated completely or partially with fluorinated compounds.

[0300] The fluorinated surface treatment agent can be selected from perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoropolyethers, polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE), perfluoroalkanes, perfluoroalkyl silazanes, polyhexafluoropropylene oxide or polyorganosiloxanes containing perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups.

[0301] The term "perfluoroalkyl group" means an alkyl group in which all hydrogen atoms are replaced by fluorine atoms.

[0302] Perfluoropolyethers are described in particular in patent documents, European Patent No. 0486135, and are sold under the trade name Fomblin by Montefluos.

[0303] Perfluoroalkyl phosphates are described in particular in Japanese Patent Publication No. 05-86984. Perfluoroalkyl phosphate diethanolamine sold by Asahi Glass under the reference symbol Asahi Guard AG530 (registered trademark) can be used.

[0304] Among the straight-chain perfluoroalkanes, perfluorocycloalkanes, perfluoro(alkylcycloalkanes), perfluoropolycycloalkanes, perfluorinated aromatic hydrocarbons (perfluoroarenes) and organic perfluorinated hydrocarbon compounds containing at least one heteroatom can be mentioned.

[0305] Among the perfluoroalkanes, a series of straight-chain alkanes such as perfluorooctane, perfluorononane or perfluorodecane can be mentioned. Among perfluorocycloalkanes and perfluoro(alkylcycloalkanes), perfluorodecalin, perfluoro(methyldecalin), and perfluoro(C3-C5 alkylcyclohexanes) such as perfluoro(butylcyclohexane), which are sold under the name Flutec PP5 GMP (registered trademark) by Rhodia, can be mentioned.

[0306] Among perfluoropolycycloalkanes, bicyclo[3.3.1]nonane derivatives such as perfluorotrimethylbicyclo[3.3.1]nonane, adamantane derivatives such as perfluorodimethyladamantane, and fully fluorinated derivatives of hydrogenated phenanthrene such as tetracosfluorotetradecahydrophenanthrene can be mentioned.

[0307] Among perfluoroarenes, fully fluorinated derivatives of naphthalene such as perfluoronaphthalene and perfluoro-1-methylnaphthalene can be mentioned.

[0308] Examples of commercial reference symbols for pigments treated with fluorinated compounds can be the following: - Iron oxide yellow / perfluoroalkyl phosphate sold by Daito Kasei under the reference symbol PF 5 Yellow 601 (registered trademark); - Iron oxide red / perfluoroalkyl phosphate sold by Daito Kasei under the reference symbol PF 5 Red R 516L (registered trademark); - Iron oxide black / perfluoroalkyl phosphate sold by Daito Kasei under the reference symbol PF 5 Black BL100 (registered trademark); - Titanium dioxide / perfluoroalkyl phosphate sold by Daito Kasei under the reference symbol PF 5 TiO2 CR 50 (registered trademark); - Iron oxide yellow / perfluoropolymethylisopropyl ether sold by Toshiki under the reference symbol Iron Oxide Yellow BF-25-3 (registered trademark); -DC Red 7 / perfluoropolyisopropyl methyl ether, sold under the reference symbol D&C Red 7 FHC (registered trademark) by Cardre Inc.; and -DC Red 6 / PTFE, sold under the reference symbol T 9506 (registered trademark) by Warner-Jenkinson.

[0309] Fluorosilicone surface treatment agent Pigments can be fully or partially surface-treated with fluorosilicone compounds.

[0310] Fluorosilicone compounds can be selected from perfluoroalkyl dimethicone, perfluoroalkyl silane, and perfluoroalkyl trialkoxysilane.

[0311] Examples of perfluoroalkyl silanes include LP-IT (registered trademark) and LP-4T (registered trademark), products sold by Shin Etsu Silicone.

[0312] Examples of reference symbols of commercially available pigments treated with fluorosilicone compounds include titanium dioxide / fluorosilicone sold under the reference symbol Fluorosil Titanium dioxide 100TA by Advanced Dermaceuticals International Inc.

[0313] Other lipophilic surface treatment agents Hydrophobic treatment agents also include: i) It can also be selected from metal soaps, such as aluminum dimyristate and aluminum salts of hydrogenated tallow glutamate.

[0314] In particular, examples of metal soaps may include metal soaps of fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, especially those having 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0315] The metal of the metal soap can particularly be zinc or magnesium.

[0316] As the metal soap, zinc laurate, magnesium stearate, magnesium myristate, zinc stearate and their mixtures can be used.

[0317] The hydrophobic treatment agent can also be selected from ii) fatty acids such as lauric acid, myristic acid, stearic acid or palmitic acid.

[0318] The hydrophobic treatment agent can also be selected from iii) N-acylated amino acids or their salts which may contain an acyl group having 8 to 22 carbon atoms such as 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group.

[0319] The amino acid can be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.

[0320] The salts of these compounds can be aluminum salts, magnesium salts, calcium salts, zirconium salts, zinc salts, sodium salts or potassium salts.

[0321] Therefore, according to a particularly preferred embodiment, the N-acylated amino acid derivative can particularly be a glutamic acid derivative and / or its salt, more particularly stearoyl glutamate such as aluminum stearoyl glutamate.

[0322] The hydrophobic treatment agent can also be selected from iv) lecithin and its derivatives.

[0323] The hydrophobic treatment agent can also be v) isopropyltriisostearoyl titanate.

[0324] Examples of isopropyltriisostearyl titanate (ITT)-treated pigments include those sold by Kobo under the commercial reference symbols BWBO-I2 (registered trademark) (iron oxide CI77499 and isopropyltriisostearyl titanate), BWYO-I2 (registered trademark) (iron oxide CI77492 and isopropyltriisostearyl titanate), and BWRO-I2 (registered trademark) (iron oxide CI77491 and isopropyltriisostearyl titanate).

[0325] The hydrophobic treatment agent can also be isostearyl sebacate.

[0326] The hydrophobic treatment agent can also be selected from vii) natural vegetable or animal waxes or polar synthetic waxes.

[0327] The hydrophobic treatment agent can also be selected from viii) fatty esters, particularly jojoba esters. The hydrophobic treatment agent can also be selected from ix) phospholipids.

[0328] The waxes mentioned with the compounds cited above can be those commonly used in the cosmetic field, as defined later.

[0329] They can be, in particular, hydrocarbon-based, silicone and / or fluorinated, optionally containing ester or hydroxyl functional groups. They can also be of natural or synthetic origin.

[0330] The term "polar wax" means a wax containing a compound having at least one polar group. Polar groups are well-known to those skilled in the art; they can be, for example, alcohol, ester or carboxylic acid groups. Polyethylene wax, paraffin wax, microcrystalline wax, ozokerite or Fischer-Tropsch wax are not included among the polar waxes.

[0331] In particular, the polar wax has δa > 0 (J / cm 3 ) 1 / 2 , and even better δa > 1 (J / cm3 ) 1 / 2 such as the average Hansen solubility parameter δa at 25°C: [Number] (where δp and δh are the contributions of polarity and the type of specific interaction to the Hansen solubility parameter, respectively). The definition of solvents in the three-dimensional solubility space by Hansen is described in C.M. Hansen, The three-dimensional solubility parameters, J. Paint Technol., 39, 105 (1967): -δh characterizes the force of specific interactions (such as hydrogen bonding type, acid / base interaction or donor / acceptor bond, etc.); -δp also characterizes the Debye interaction force between permanent dipoles and the Keesom interaction force between an induced dipole and a permanent dipole. The parameters δp and δh are in (J / cm 3 ) 1 / 2 expressed as.

[0332] Polar waxes are formed especially from molecules containing heteroatoms (such as O, N, and P) in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms in their chemical structures. In particular, non-limiting examples of these polar waxes include natural polar waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax, orange wax, lemon wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, cork fiber wax, sugarcane wax, Japan wax, sumac wax, or montan wax.

[0333] According to a specific embodiment, the pigment can be coated with at least one compound selected from silicone-based surface treatment agents; fluorine-based surface treatment agents; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; isopropyltriisostearyl titanate; natural plant-based or animal-based waxes; fatty esters; and mixtures thereof.

[0334] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the pigment can be coated with an N-acylated amino acid and / or its salt, in particular a glutamic acid derivative and / or its salt or a fatty acid ester, in particular a jojoba ester.

[0335] According to an even more particularly preferred embodiment, the pigment can be coated with an N-acylated amino acid and / or its salt, in particular a glutamic acid derivative and / or its salt, in particular stearoyl glutamate, such as aluminum stearoyl glutamate.

[0336] Examples of the pigment coated according to the present invention include, more specifically, titanium dioxide and iron oxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate, which are sold, for example, under the reference symbol of NAI by Mitsuwa Kasei.

[0337] Pigment not coated with a hydrophobic compound As described above, the composition may additionally contain a pigment not coated with a lipophilic or hydrophobic compound.

[0338] These other pigments may or may not be coated with a hydrophilic compound.

[0339] These pigments can be, in particular, inorganic pigments as defined above. These pigments can also be organic pigments.

[0340] The term "organic pigment" means any pigment that meets the definition in the chapter on organic pigments in Ullmann’s encyclopaedia. Organic pigments can be selected, in particular, from metal complex-type nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane or quinophthalone compounds.

[0341] Organic pigments can be selected from, for example, carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, blue pigments classified in the Color Index under the numbers CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100 and 74160, yellow pigments classified in the Color Index under the numbers CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000 and 47005, green pigments classified in the Color Index under the numbers CI 61565, 61570 and 74260, orange pigments classified in the Color Index under the numbers CI 11725, 15510, 45370 and 71105, red pigments classified in the Color Index under the numbers CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915 and 75470, and pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole or phenol derivatives as described in French Patent No. 2679771.

[0342] These pigments can also be in the form of composite pigments such as those described in European Patent No. 1184426. These composite pigments can be composed, in particular, of particles comprising an inorganic core at least partially coated with an organic pigment and at least one binder for fixing the organic pigment to the core.

[0343] The pigment can also be a lake. The term "lake" means an insoluble dye adsorbed on insoluble particles, and the aggregate thus obtained is understood to remain insoluble during use.

[0344] Inorganic substrates to which the dye can be adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate, or calcium aluminum borosilicate and aluminum. Among the organic dyes, cochineal carmine can be mentioned. Products known by the following names can also be mentioned: D&C Red 21 (CI 45380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15985), D&C Green (CI 61570), D&C Yellow 10 (CI 77002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42090).

[0345] Examples of lakes may also include products known by the name D&C Red 7 (CI 15850:1).

[0346] Properties of the hydrophilic coating As described above, these other pigments can be coated with hydrophilic compounds. The hydrophilic compounds that enable surface treatment of the pigments to optimize the dispersion of the pigments in the gel-like aqueous phase are more particularly selected from biological polymers, carbohydrates, polysaccharides, polyacrylates or polyethylene glycol derivatives.

[0347] Examples of biological polymers may include polymers based on carbohydrate-type monomers.

[0348] More specifically, it can include biosaccharide gum, chitosan and its derivatives such as butoxy chitosan, carboxymethyl chitosan, carboxybutyl chitosan, chitosan gluconate, chitosan adipate, chitosan glycolate, chitosan lactate, chitin and its derivatives such as carboxymethyl chitin, or chitin glycolate; cellulose and its derivatives such as cellulose acetate; microcrystalline cellulose; phosphate cross-linked starch; sodium hyaluronate; water-soluble proteoglycan; galactoarabinan; glycosaminoglycan; glycogen; sclerotium gum; dextran; starch and its derivatives; and mixtures thereof.

[0349] Examples of carbohydrates include polyhydroxy aldehydes or polyhydroxy ketones, with the general formula: C x (H2O) y (where x and y can range from 1 to 1,000,000) can be specifically mentioned.

[0350] Carbohydrates can be monosaccharides, disaccharides or polysaccharides. In particular, examples of carbohydrates include amylodextrin, beta-glucan, cyclodextrin, modified corn starch, glycogen, hyaluronic acid, hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin, lactose, maltitol, guanosine, glyceryl starch, triticum aestivum starch, trehalose, sucrose and its derivatives, raffinose or sodium chondroitin sulfate.

[0351] As the surface treatment agent, C1 - C 20 alkylene glycol or C1 - C 20 alkylene glycol ether can be used alone or in combination with tri(C1 - C 20 )alkylsilane.

[0352] Examples include pigments surface-treated with PEG alkyl ether alkoxysilane, such as pigments treated with PEG-8 methyl ether triethoxysilane and sold under the name of SW pigments by Kobo.

[0353] Silicones such as dimethicone having a hydrophilic group, also known by the name of dimethicone copolyol or alkyldimethicone copolyol, can also be suitable for the present invention as a surface treatment agent. In particular, this type of dimethicone has ethylene oxide or propylene oxide, etc. as a repeating unit, and can contain C1 - C 20 alkylene oxide. As an example, pigments treated with PEG - 12 - dimethicone, sold under the name LCW AQ (registered trademark) Pigment by Sensient Corporation, can be mentioned.

[0354] The amount of the pigment coated with at least one hydrophilic compound and / or the uncoated pigment is particularly determined by the intended use of the cosmetic composition in question, and the adjustment of this amount is clearly within the ability of the formulator of the composition.

[0355] According to a particular embodiment, the composition further comprises at least one pigment selected from titanium dioxide and / or iron oxide, and is particularly coated with a hydrophobic surface treatment agent, in particular an N - acylated amino acid and / or its salt, in particular a glutamate derivative and / or its salt, in particular stearoyl glutamate, for example aluminum stearoyl glutamate.

[0356] Additives The composition according to the present invention can additionally contain additives commonly used in care and / or makeup products, such as organic UV blockers other than those described above; inorganic UV blockers; humectants, such as polyols, such as glycerol, propanediol or pentylene glycol, etc.; fillers; dyes; thickeners or gelling agents; preservatives; chelating agents; fragrances; and mixtures thereof.

[0357] Fillers The composition according to the invention may also contain at least one organic or inorganic filler which, in particular, makes it possible to impart to it improved stability, persistence, covering power and / or additional properties such as a matt finish. The term "filler" should be understood to mean colorless or white solid particles of any shape which are provided in insoluble form and are dispersed in the medium of the composition. These mineral or organic particles make it possible to impart viscosity or stiffness in the composition and / or softness and uniformity in makeup. The fillers used in the composition according to the invention may be in lamellar, spherical, globular or fibrous form or in any other intermediate form between these defined forms.

[0358] The fillers according to the invention may or may not be surface-coated, in particular they may be surface-treated with silicone, amino acids, fluorinated derivatives or any other substance which enhances the dispersion and compatibility of the fillers in the composition.

[0359] Examples of inorganic fillers include talc, mica, silica, hollow silica microspheres, kaolin, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, glass or ceramic microcapsules, composites of silica and titanium dioxide, such as the TSG (registered trademark) series sold by Nippon Sheet Glass Co., Ltd. or hydrophobic silica aerogel.

[0360] Examples of organic fillers include powders formed from polyamide (Nylon® Orgasol from Atochem), polyethylene, polymethyl methacrylate, polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon®), or acrylic acid copolymers (Polytrap® from Dow Corning), lauroyl lysine, hollow polymer microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile, e.g., Expancel® (Nobel Industrie), hexamethylene diisocyanate / trimethylolhexyl lactone copolymer powder (Plastic Powder® from Toshiki), silicone resin microbeads (e.g., Tospearl® from Toshiba), synthetic or natural micronized waxes, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, lithium stearate, zinc laurate or magnesium myristate, Polypore® L 200 (Chemdal Corporation), or powders of crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxanes coated with a silicone resin, particularly a silsesquioxane resin as described, for example, in U.S. Patent No. 5,538,793. This can also be cellulose powder, such as those sold in the Cellulobeads series by Tohto Kasei Kogyo Co., Ltd.

[0361] Silica particles According to a preferred form, the composition according to the invention additionally comprises silica particles selected from hydrophobic silica aerogel particles, silica particles other than those described above, and mixtures thereof. i) Hydrophobic silica aerogel Hydrophobic silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing the liquid component of silica gel with air (in particular by drying). These are generally synthesized in a liquid medium by the sol-gel method and then dried, usually by extraction with a supercritical fluid (the most commonly used being supercritical CO2). This type of drying allows the avoidance of pore and material shrinkage. The sol-gel method and various drying operations are detailed in Brinker C.J. and Scherer G.W., Sol-Gel Science, New York, Academic Press, 1990.

[0362] The hydrophobic silica aerogels used according to the present invention are preferably silylated silica aerogels (INCI name: Silica Silylate).

[0363] The term "hydrophobic silica" means any silica whose surface has been treated with a silylating agent, such as an alkylchlorosilane, a siloxane, in particular a dimethylsiloxane such as hexamethyldisiloxane or a silazane, so as to be functionalized with a silyl group, for example a trimethylsilyl group, replacing the OH groups with Si-R n For the preparation of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles surface-modified by silylation, reference may be made to the document of US Patent No. 7470725.

[0364] In particular, aerogel particles formed from hydrophobic silica (trimethylsiloxylated silica) surface-modified with trimethylsilyl groups are used.

[0365] The term "hydrophobic aerogel particles" means any aerogel-type particles showing a water absorption capacity at a wet point of less than 0.1 ml / g, i.e. less than 10 g of water / 100 g of particles.

[0366] ​The absorption capacity measured at the wetting point and denoted as WP corresponds to the amount of solvent (expressed in grams or milliliters) that needs to be added to 1 g of particles in order to obtain a homogeneous paste. This is measured according to the "wetting point" method or the method described in the standard NF T 30 - 022 for determining the uptake of solvent (water or oil) by a powder. As will be described later, this corresponds to the amount of solvent adsorbed onto the available surface of the powder and / or absorbed by the powder as measured by the wetting point.

[0367] Place a glass plate (25x25 mm) on the scale, weigh out an amount w of 1 g of powder onto the glass plate, and then add the solvent dropwise (e.g., water or isononyl isononanoate). Gradually add the solvent to the powder and regularly knead everything using a spatula (every 3 - 4 drops). Stop adding the solvent when a homogeneous paste is obtained. This paste must be able to be spread on the glass plate without cracks or lumps. Record the mass of the solvent required to obtain the wetting point. Take the average over 3 tests. Since the density of the solvent is known, the volume Vs (expressed in ml) of the solvent used is estimated therefrom. The solvent uptake corresponds to Vs / w.

[0368] Preferably, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles according to the invention preferably have an oil absorption capacity measured at the wetting point in the range of 5 - 18 ml / g, preferably 6 - 15 ml / g, more preferably 8 - 12 ml / g.

[0369] The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention preferably have a specific surface area (SM) per unit mass in the range of 200 - 1500 m 2 / g, preferably 600 - 1200 m 2 / g, more preferably in the range of 600 - 800 m2 / g, and a size represented as the volume - average diameter (D[0.5]) of less than 1500 μm, preferably in the range of 1 - 30 μm, preferably 5 - 25 μm, more preferably 5 - 20 μm, even more preferably 5 - 15 μm.

[0370] The specific surface area per unit mass is described in The Journal of the American Chemical Society, Vol. 60, page 309, February 1938 and can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method known as the BET (Brunauer - Emmett - Teller) method, which corresponds to the international standard ISO 5794 / 1 (Appendix D). The BET specific surface area corresponds to the specific surface area of the entire particles of interest.

[0371] The size of the aerogel particles according to the present invention can be measured by static light scattering using a commercially available particle size analyzer of the Mastersizer 2000 (registered trademark) type from Malvern. The data is processed based on the Mie scattering theory. This theory corresponds to isotropic particles and, in the case of non - spherical particles, it is possible to determine the effective particle diameter. This theory is described in particular in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., Light Scattering by Small Particles, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0372] The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention preferably have a tapped density in the range of 0.02 g / cm 3 ~0.10 g / cm 3 and preferably in the range of 0.02 g / cm 3 ~0.08 g / cm 3 can have.

[0373] Regarding the present invention, this density can be evaluated according to the following protocol known as the tapped density protocol:

[0374] Pour 40 g of the powder into a measuring cylinder; then place the measuring cylinder in a Stampf Volumeter Stav 2003 (registered trademark) machine; then subject the measuring cylinder to a series of 2500 tapping operations (this operation is repeated until the difference in volume between two consecutive tests is less than 2%); then directly measure the final volume Vf of the tapped powder in the measuring cylinder. The tap density is determined by the ratio of m / Vf. In this case, it is 40 / Vf (where Vf is in cm 3 units and m is in g units).

[0375] According to one embodiment, the specific surface area (S V ) per unit volume of the hydrophobic aerogel particles used in the present invention is in the range of 5 to 60 m 2 / cm 3 , preferably in the range of 10 to 50 m 2 / cm 3 , and even more preferably in the range of 15 to 40 m 2 / cm 3 .

[0376] The specific surface area per unit volume is given by the following relationship: S V = S M .ρ; where, as defined above, ρ is the tap density expressed in g / cm 3 , and S M is the specific surface area per unit mass expressed in m 2 / g.

[0377] According to a particular embodiment, the aerogel particles used are inorganic, and more specifically, hydrophobic silica aerogel particles having the aforementioned properties.

[0378] Examples of hydrophobic silica aerogels that can be used in the present invention include, for example, an aerogel sold by Dow Corning under the name VM - 2260 (INCI name: Silica Silylate (silylated silica)), the average diameter of its particles being approximately 1000 microns, and the specific surface area per unit mass being 600 - 800 m 2It has a range of / g. Aerogels sold under the reference symbols of Aerogel TLD 201 (registered trademark), Aerogel OGD 201 (registered trademark), Aerogel TLD 203 (registered trademark), Enova (registered trademark) Aerogel MT 1100 and Enova Aerogel MT 1200 (registered trademark) by Cabot may also be mentioned.

[0379] More specifically, an aerogel sold under the name of VM-2270 (registered trademark) (INCI name: Silica Silylate (silylated silica)) by Dow Corning may be used. The average diameter of these particles ranges from 5 to 15 microns, and the specific surface area per unit mass ranges from 600 to 800 m 2 / g.

[0380] An aerogel sold under the name of Enova (registered trademark) Aerogel MT 1100 (registered trademark) (INCI name: Silica Silylate (silylated silica)) by Cabot is also used. The average diameter of these particles ranges from 2 to 25 microns, and the specific surface area per unit mass is in the range of 600 to 800 m 2 / g.

[0381] The hydrophobic aerogel particles correspond to 0.05% to 10% by mass, preferably 0.1% to 8% by mass, even better 0.2% to 5% by mass, and more preferably 0.3% to 3% by mass based on the total mass of the composition.

[0382] Other silica particles Other silicas that can be used can be natural and untreated. Thus, silicas provided under the names of Sillitin N85 (registered trademark), Sillitin N87 (registered trademark), Sillitin N82 (registered trademark), Sillitin V85 (registered trademark) and Sillitin V88 (registered trademark) by Hoffmann Mineral may be mentioned.

[0383] These can be fumed silica.

[0384] Fumed silica can be obtained by subjecting a volatile silicon compound to high-temperature hydrolysis in a hydrogen-oxygen flame, and fine silica can be obtained. By this method, it becomes possible to obtain hydrophilic silica having a large number of silanol groups especially on their surfaces. The surface of the silica can be chemically modified by a chemical reaction that reduces the number of silanol groups. In particular, it is possible to substitute the silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: Next, hydrophobic silica is obtained.

[0385] The hydrophobic group can be as follows: (a) Trimethylsiloxy groups obtained especially by treating fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. The silica thus treated is known as Silica Silylate according to CTFA (6th Edition, 1995); (b) Dimethylsilyloxy groups or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are obtained especially by treating fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. The silica thus treated is known as "Silica Dimethyl Silylate (dimethylsilylated silica)" according to CTFA (6th Edition, 1995). More specifically, the following can be mentioned as silica powders other than silicone aerogels: - Porous silica microspheres sold under the name Silica Beads SB-700 (registered trademark) by Miyoshi; and under the names Sunsphere H51 (registered trademark) or Sunsphere H33 (registered trademark) by Asahi Glass; - Amorphous silica microspheres coated with polydimethylsiloxane, sold under the names SA Sunsphere (registered trademark) H33 (registered trademark) and SA Sunsphere (registered trademark) H53 (registered trademark) by AGC SITECH; - For example, precipitated silica microspheres coated with a mineral wax such as polyethylene, especially those sold under the name Acematt® OK 412® by Evonik Degussa.

[0386] More specifically, as the silica powder, porous silica microspheres such as those sold under the name Silica Beads SB-700® by Mitsuwa Kasei and under the names Sunsphere® H51 and Sunsphere® H33 by AGC SITECH are used.

[0387] Silica particles other than the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles are present in the composition according to the invention in an amount in the range from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight and very preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0388] According to a preferred form, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture comprising at least hydrophobic silica aerogel particles and other silica particles such as those described above, in particular porous silica microspheres.

[0389] Additional dyes The composition according to the invention may preferably also contain at least one further dye in a proportion of at least 0.01% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0390] For obvious reasons, this amount can vary widely depending on the intensity of the desired color effect and the color strength imparted by the dye under consideration, and its adjustment is clearly within the capabilities of the person skilled in the art.

[0391] Additional dyes suitable for use in the present invention may be water-soluble or may be fat-soluble.

[0392] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "water-soluble dye" means any natural or synthetic, generally organic compound that is soluble in an aqueous phase or a water-miscible solvent and is capable of imparting color.

[0393] In particular, suitable water-soluble dyes for the present invention include synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes such as FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1, betanin (beetroot), carmine, copper chlorophyllin, methylene blue, anthocyanins (peonidin, black carrot, hibiscus or natto), caramel or riboflavin.

[0394] Water-soluble dyes are, for example, beetroot juice and caramel.

[0395] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "lipid-soluble dye" means any natural or synthetic, generally organic compound that is soluble in an oily phase or a solvent miscible with fatty substances and is capable of imparting color.

[0396] Suitable lipid-soluble dyes for use in the present invention include, in particular, synthetic or natural lipid-soluble dyes such as DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan Red, carotenes (β-carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (capsaicin, capsorubin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan Brown, quinoline yellow, annatto and curcumin.

[0397] Form of the composition The composition of the present invention can be in the form of an anhydrous composition, an oil-in-water emulsion, or a water-in-oil emulsion.

[0398] According to the first embodiment of the present invention, the composition is a single-phase oily composition.

[0399] According to another advantageous embodiment of the present invention, the composition comprises an aqueous phase, in which case it is preferably in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, or in some cases a composition having several distinct phases (such as a two-phase composition).

[0400] The term "water-in-oil emulsion" or W / O emulsion means a composition comprising immiscible oily and aqueous phases. The aqueous phase is dispersed in the form of droplets (described as continuous) in the oily phase in order to obtain a macroscopically homogeneous composition.

[0401] In the case of the composition of the present invention, a presentation form having a continuous oily phase is preferred, and the sustained-release performance promoter is provided by a natural resin solubilized in the oily phase. These forms further promote the dispersion and homogeneity of the pigments, and thus optimize the coverage obtained for the film obtained after application of the composition according to the present invention (as demonstrated in the examples).

[0402] The composition of the present invention is particularly suitable for manufacturing cosmetics having a fluid texture. Advantageously, the composition according to the present invention is more specifically in the form of a viscoelastic to viscous liquid, the G * elastic modulus (viscoelastic modulus) is between 0.1 and 20,000 Pa, more specifically between 1 and 5,000 Pa, or even between 10 and 1,000 Pa. The G * elastic modulus is measured with a controlled stress rheometer, and the value is obtained at the viscoelastic plateau at 25 °C.

[0403] Application According to one embodiment, the composition of the present invention can advantageously be provided in the form of a composition for caring for the skin of the body or the face, in particular the face.

[0404] According to another embodiment, the composition of the present invention can advantageously be provided in the form of a composition for making up keratinous substances, in particular the skin of the body or the face, in particular the face.

[0405] Thus, according to a lower aspect of the present embodiment, the composition of the present invention can advantageously be in the form of a makeup base composition.

[0406] The composition of the present invention can advantageously be in the form of a liquid product for forming the lips, in particular in the form of a liquid lipstick.

[0407] According to another lower aspect of the present embodiment, the composition of the present invention can advantageously be in the form of a composition for making up the skin, in particular the face. Thus, it can be a foundation, eyeshadow or blush.

[0408] It can also be mascara, eyeliner, concealer or corrector, eyebrow products, skin care products, sunscreen products, hygiene products, or hair styling products, or even hair dye products; or even nail varnish.

[0409] Such compositions are prepared specifically according to the general knowledge of those skilled in the art.

[0410] The present invention will be described in more detail by the following examples. Unless otherwise specified, the amounts shown are expressed as mass percentages. Although the following examples make it possible to understand the present invention more clearly, they do not limit the nature of the present invention.

Examples

[0411] Components:

[0412]

Table 1

[0413]

Table 2

[0414] Preparation of the composition Procedures and apparatus used in each test: Each resin (A, B, C) and each gelling agent (D, E, F, G, H) were used in a mixture of ethanol and isododecane at ambient temperature according to the protocol described below at the mass ratios shown in the following table: - Mix the resin with the solvent under magnetic stirring at 1200 rpm for 24 hours at an ambient temperature of 25 °C. - Add the gelling agent by sprinkling it onto the resin / solvent mixture. - Continue stirring until the resin is completely solubilized and the polymer is developed. - Weigh the assembly (beaker + mixture) and readjust the amount of volatile solvent (if a slight loss of volatile matter is observed). - Then add the following coloring starting materials: RED 7 organic pigment or coated iron oxide mineral pigment using a rotor stator at ambient temperature (25 °C).

[0415] Protocol for evaluating dry friction resistance and friction resistance in the presence of oil Some compositions were evaluated for their resistance to friction by colorimetric measurement of the dry film before and after wear, and the protocol for that test is described in detail below.

[0416] Protocol for spraying the composition as a coating: The product is spread on a diffusion bench (Elcometer 4340 applicator), which allows adjustment of the spreading rate and distance. The bench is equipped with a suction system connected to a pump to keep the support on which the product is spread stationary. Uncoated contrast cards with black and white backgrounds are used (1 bic chart, uncoated N2A, code 2831). The thickness of the spread can be adjusted using a square spreader placed on the support so that it spreads by leveling when the platform is moving. Each end face of the spreader allows spreading at different thicknesses in the range of 25 μm to 200 μm. The selected thickness is 25 μm to approximate the film thickness in vivo. A mass of 960 g is applied to the spreader during spreading. The spreading rate is set at 1 inch / second, i.e., 2.54 cm / second. The coating is dried on a heating plate at 34 °C and ambient RH (50% RH) for 24 hours.

[0417] Abrasion resistance test protocol: The friction resistance test is performed by colorimetric measurement of the dry coating before and after abrasion. Abrasion is carried out by attaching a strip of a tissue hanky (Chicopee® Veraclean™ Polish Plus) to the 25-μm edge face of the spreader. A mass of 960 g is applied to the spreader during abrasion. The bench speed is set at 2.54 cm / second. Color is measured using a Konica Minolta CM-700d spectrophotometer before and after abrasion. Measurement by contact makes it possible to ensure the absence of stray light.

[0418] Selected settings: aperture 8 mm; uncertainty: 0.04; SCI / SCE measurement; d / 8° geometry.

[0419] The measurement of the colors of two backgrounds (black background BB and white background WB) makes it possible to characterize the coverage of the substrate by calculating the contrast ratio (CR%), i.e., YBB / YWB×100, where YBB and YWB are the luminance values measured on the black background and the white background, respectively, and these values increase as the coverage of the substrate increases.

[0420] To evaluate the frictional resistance, the contrast ratios before friction (CR dry deposit, %) and after abrasion (CR fric dry deposit, %) are measured respectively. The ratio [CR fric dry deposit / CR dry deposit] * 100, as a percentage, indicates the resistance of the coating to friction: the higher this ratio, the higher the resistance of the coating to friction.

[0421] Note: For obtaining each contrast ratio value, at least two contrast cards are used for each composition and evaluated by 3 CR measurements on each card. Thus, each CR value represents the average of 6 measurements.

[0422] The frictional resistance of the dry coatings was tested for two types of coloring compositions: 1) organic pigments and then 2) iron oxides (basic prototypes). For the compositions colored with organic pigments (lip product prototypes), the resistance of the coatings to olive oil was tested.

[0423] In vitro test of fragmentation on FP40 elastomer substrate - evaluation of the adhesion and aggregation properties of deposits Using an aluminum stencil (an orifice with a length of 20 mm, a width of 10 mm, and a thickness of 100 μm), the coating was manually cast onto an FP40 support (a test piece with a length of 60 mm and a width of 10 mm, where the FP40 substrate is made of butadiene-nitrile elastomer and contains a plasticizer (diethylhexyl sebacate); a test piece; the reference product JOINT DIVERS PLAQUE (MISCELLANEOUS PLATE SEAL) HPYF000504N4I01 supplied by BRAMMER, a 60X1000x2 strip made of FP40, brand BUSAK-LU) with a pipette, and then flattened to obtain a coating with a thickness of 100 μm. Then, the test piece was dried on a hot plate at 35 °C for 24 hours. The fragmentation test was carried out using a TA.XT tensile meter manufactured by Stable Micro Systems equipped with a tensile module. The test piece was placed between jaws 1 cm from each side of the deposit during the tensile test, and then stress was applied at a constant speed of 300 mm / min until 100% deformation. The resistance to fragmentation was observed by eye and graded between 1 (the entire deposit is fragmented) and 5 (no cracks are present at all). Examples of the visual effects related to various scores are shown below.

[0424]

Table 3

[0425] Results of the frictional resistance of the compositions containing candelilla resin and / or ethyl cellulose in Examples 1 to 23

[0426]

Table 4

[0427]

Table 5

[0428] Compositions outside the present invention containing only candelilla resin exhibit a lack of resistance in the presence of olive oil. Compositions outside the present invention containing only ethyl cellulose exhibit a lack of fragmentation resistance and are accompanied by a very high degree of cracking of deposits, which is synonymous with a lack of comfort for the skin.

[0429] Only the compositions of the present invention containing a combination of candelilla resin and ethyl cellulose simultaneously exhibit excellent dry friction resistance, good resistance in the presence of olive oil, and good crush resistance.

[0430]

Table 6

[0431] The formulas of the present invention containing candelilla resin in combination with myristoyl pullulan or C1-5 alkyl galactomannan also exhibit good dry resistance and good resistance in the presence of olive oil.

[0432]

Table 7

[0433] The compositions of the present invention containing iron oxide in the presence of resin and modified polysaccharide also exhibit excellent dry friction resistance (about 100%).

[0434] Examples 24-26 - Results of dry friction resistance or friction resistance with olive oil in the presence of glyceryl rosinate

[0435]

Table 8

[0436] The compositions of the present invention containing modified polysaccharide in combination with glyceryl rosinate resin exhibit excellent dry friction resistance and good resistance in the presence of oil.

[0437] Results of dry friction resistance or frictional resistance with olive oil in the presence of Protium heptaphyllum for Examples 27 - 29

[0438] [Table 9]

[0439] The compositions of the present invention containing various oil - based gelling agents in combination with Protium heptaphylum resin exhibit excellent dry friction resistance and good resistance in the presence of oil.

[0440] Examples 30 - 38 - Adhesion test Protocol for measuring adhesiveness The support used is a strip of "Supplale". It is a synthetic leather sheet (polyurethane adhesively bonded to a polyester - cotton fabric) that is white in color, has dimensions of 150 mm × 25 mm, and is sold under the name Supplale, code DFSUP15025B, supplier Soudotique. The product is deposited over a length of 10 cm on the Supplale strip using an applicator to obtain a uniform deposit (pass the applicator 4 times over the entire length and re - immerse the applicator in the product between passes). The support containing the sample is dried for 1 hour on a thermostat - controlled plate at 32°C and ambient RH (50% RH). Next, the test piece is placed on the base of a texture analyzer or on a metal plate provided with double - sided adhesive tape to hold the test piece. Adhesiveness is measured using a TAXT2 plus texture analyzer. A spindle (tip) containing a fixed white circle Supplale® with a diameter of 20 mm is placed on the texture analyzer.

[0441] The parameters of the compressibility test with hold over time are as follows: approach speed (or pre-speed): 1 mm / second; speed (starting from detection of contact): 0.5 mm / second; force: 800 g; hold time: 5 seconds; return speed (or post-speed): 40 mm / second.

[0442] Adhesiveness is characterized by the amount of peel work measured during unloading (tensile phase), which corresponds to the integral of the curve under the time axis. This amount of work is expressed positively in joules per square meter. The lower the measured work value, the lower the adhesiveness of the deposit.

[0443] [Table 10]

[0444] The determined limit of adhesiveness is 1.5 J / m 2 . Above that, the deposit becomes perceptibly adhesive.

[0445] All deposits show lack of adhesiveness after drying the film (in 60 minutes). The test results in the above table show that the films deposited from each of the compositions according to the invention do not have an adhesion effect (0.12 J / m 2 ).

[0446] Examples 39 and 40 - Other examples of the compositions according to the invention The product is deposited on the forearm over a 3 cm × 3 cm area using a dipping applicator (for lips). The ease of spreading, regeneration time and uniformity are evaluated qualitatively. Keep the product dry until it is completely dry (about 5 - 10 minutes). The dry resistance is evaluated visually after contact with the tissue (intensity of the mark). The resistance to olive oil is evaluated after adding a drop of olive oil to the deposit (spreading the oil manually over the entire surface of the deposit). Next, the resistance to olive oil is evaluated visually after contact with the tissue (intensity of the mark).

[0447] [Table 11]

[0448]

Table 12

[0449] Examples 41 and 42 - Results obtained with other solvents

[0450]

Table 13

[0451]

Table 14

Claims

1. In a physiologically acceptable medium, a - at least one volatile oil, b - at least one volatile alcohol, c - at least one natural resin, and d - at least one modified polysaccharide, a cosmetic composition.

2. The mass ratio of the amount of the volatile oil and the total amount of the volatile alcohol to the amount of the natural resin is greater than 1, preferably, - the mass ratio of the amount of the volatile oil to the amount of the natural resin is greater than 0.5, preferably greater than 1; and / or - the mass ratio of the amount of the volatile alcohol to the amount of the natural resin is greater than 0.5, preferably greater than 1, the composition according to claim 1.

3. The volatile oil or the volatile alcohol, preferably each of them, has a vapor pressure of 1.3 Pa or more, preferably in the range of 1.3 Pa to 13000 Pa, preferably 2.66 Pa or more, preferably 2.66 Pa to 13000 Pa at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure, the composition according to claim 1 or 2.

4. The volatile oil is selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils, volatile silicone oils and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils, preferably selected from C8 - C16 isoalkanes; preferably, the volatile hydrocarbon oil is selected from isododecane, C9 - C12 straight-chain or branched alkanes and / or a mixture of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13); preferably containing isododecane, the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3.

5. The volatile oil is at least partially of plant origin, the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4.

6. The mass ratio of the amount of the volatile oil to the amount of the natural resin is in the range of 0.5 to 50, preferably 1 to 30, preferably 3 to 20, preferably 5 to 18, preferably 8 to 15, the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5.

7. The volatile alcohol is selected from C1 - C4 alcohols, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol, n-butanol, and mixtures thereof; preferably selected from ethanol, the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6.

8. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the mass ratio of the amount of the volatile alcohol to the amount of the natural resin is in the range of 0.5 to 50, preferably 1 to 30, preferably 1.2 to 20, preferably 1.5 to 15.

9. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the mass ratio of the amount of the volatile oil to the amount of the volatile alcohol is preferably in the range of 0.01 to 100, preferably 0.1 to 10, preferably 0.25 to 8, preferably 0.3 to 7.5, preferably 0.5 to 7.5, preferably 0.5 to 5, preferably 0.7 to 5, preferably 1 to 4, preferably 1.5 to 4.

10. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the mass content of the volatile oil is greater than the mass content of the volatile alcohol, and the volatile alcohol itself is greater than the mass content of the natural resin with respect to the total mass of the composition.

11. The at least one resin is selected from the following: a) alkaloid resin, b) amber, c) asphaltite and zirconite, d) Peru balsam, e) tolu balsam, f) benzoin resin, g) Canada balsam, h) copal resin, i) dammar, j) elemi, k) frankincense, l) galbanum, m) labdanum, n) mastic, o) myrrh, p) sandarac, q) shellac, r) styrax, s) turpentine, t) rosin, especially rosin, rosin salts and u) tall oil, v) resins extracted from vegetable waxes, and mixtures of these resins; preferably, the natural resin is selected from j), k), t), u) and v), and mixtures of these resins; preferably, the natural resin is selected from j), k), and v), and mixtures of these resins, and the resin can be esterified and chlorinated, particularly in the form of adducts, phenol modification, dimerization and / or hydrogenation. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10.

12. Comprising at least one resin, and having an INCI name of at least one of the following terms: Euphorbia cerifera wax extract (Euphorbia cerifera wax extract), candelilla wax extract (Candelilla wax extract), Protium heptaphyllum resin (Protium heptaphyllum resin), Shorea robusta resin (Shorea robusta resin), or glyceryl rosinate (Glyceryl rosinate); and mixtures thereof; said natural resin being preferably selected from Euphorbia cerifera wax extract (Euphorbia cerifera wax extract), candelilla wax extract (Candelilla wax extract), Protium heptaphyllum resin (Protium heptaphyllum resin), Shorea robusta resin (Shorea robusta resin), and mixtures thereof, the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11.

13. The resin contains, by mass, at least 30% terpene compounds, preferably at least 40% terpene compounds, preferably at least 50% terpene compounds, even more preferably at least 60% terpene compounds, or even more preferably at least 70% terpene compounds, based on the total mass of the resin, the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12.

14. The resin contains at least 10%, preferably at least 20% by mass, preferably at least 30% by mass, preferably at least 35% by mass of polyterpene compounds, based on the total mass of the resin represented as 100%, the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13.

15. The resin contains less than 70% by mass of monoterpene compounds or sesquiterpene compounds, based on the total mass of the resin represented as 100%, and preferably contains less than 60% by mass, preferably less than 50% by mass, preferably less than 30% by mass, preferably less than 15% by mass of monoterpene compounds or sesquiterpene compounds, based on the total mass of the resin represented as 100%, the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14.

16. The resin contains at least one diterpene compound, is preferably derived from abietic acid, is particularly natural or chemically modified, is preferably selected from colophony resins, particularly the resin is rosin acid, preferably mainly selected from abietic acid and pimaric acid, and its derivatives particularly resulting from the polymerization, hydrogenation and / or esterification of rosin acid with polyvalent acids such as ethylene glycol, glycerol, pentaerythritol, etc., and mixtures thereof; preferably, the resin contains at least one ester of rosin acid selected from the group consisting of glyceryl rosin, pentaerythrityl rosin, silicone rosin, diethylene glycol rosin, hydrogenated rosin dilinoleyl dimer, dipentaerythrityl hexahydroxystearate / hexastearate / hexarosinate, glyceryl dibehenate / hydrogenated rosin, glyceryl diisostearate / hydrogenated rosin, glyceryl trihydrogenated rosin, glycol rosin, hydrogenated methyl rosin, pentaerythrityl hydrogenated rosin, hydrogenated triethylene glycol rosin, and mixtures thereof; more preferably, the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15 is selected from glyceryl rosin.

17. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 16, wherein the total content of the diterpene compound in the resin is at least 20%, preferably at least 30%, preferably at least 40% by mass of the diterpene compound relative to the total mass of the natural resin.

18. The at least one resin preferably comprises the following: α-amyrin, β-amyrin, α-amyrone, β-amyrone, dammadenone, dammadenol, ursolic aldehyde, hydroxyhopanone, oleanone aldehyde, ursolic acid, oleanone acid, oleanol acid, lupeol, epilupeol, and mixtures thereof; preferably, the resin contains at least one triterpene compound selected from resins extracted from frankincense resins such as Protium heptaphyllum, Shorea robusta, and plant waxes such as candelilla wax, and the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 17.

19. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 18, wherein the total content of the triterpene compound in the resin is at least 10%, preferably at least 20%, preferably at least 30%, preferably at least 35% of the triterpene compound based on the total mass of the natural resin.

20. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 19, wherein the resin has a number average molecular weight in the range of 10,000 g / mol or less, particularly in the range of 250 to 10,000 g / mol, preferably 5,000 g / mol or less, particularly in the range of 250 to 5,000 g / mol, more preferably 2,000 g / mol or less, particularly in the range of 250 to 2,000 g / mol, even more preferably 1,000 g / mol or less, particularly in the range of 250 to 1,000 g / mol.

21. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 20, wherein the resin preferably has a glass transition temperature in the range of 0 °C to 200 °C, more preferably in the range of 10 °C to 100 °C, even more preferably in the range of 20 °C to 90 °C, and even more preferably in the range of 30 °C to 70 °C.

22. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 21, wherein the resin preferably has a softening point in the range of 20 °C to 150 °C, more preferably in the range of 30 °C to 100 °C, even more preferably in the range of 40 °C to 90 °C.

23. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 22, wherein the resin is present in the composition in a content by mass in the range of 0.1% to 40%, preferably 0.5% to 35%, preferably 1% to 30%, preferably 1.2% to 25%, preferably 1.5% to 25%, preferably 2% to 25%, preferably 3% to 22%, preferably 3% to 20%, for example 5% to 20%, preferably 3% to 15%, preferably 3% to 10%, preferably 3% to 8% based on the total mass of the composition, and occupies 100%.

24. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 23, wherein the polysaccharide is a cationic, non-ionic, anionic or amphoteric polysaccharide, preferably a non-ionic polysaccharide, modified by the presence of at least one hydrocarbon-based aliphatic chain, which is cyclic or acyclic, straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or non-aromatic, containing 2 to 30 carbon atoms and optionally substituted with one or more atoms or groups a), f), g), h), i), j), l) and / or p) defined below (di)alkylamino and / or one or more heteroatoms or groups a') to c') defined below: (i) linear or branched (C5-C28) alkyl, (ii) linear or branched (C5-C28) alkenyl, (iii) linear or branched (C5-C28) alkynyl, preferably the hydrocarbon-based group is linear; a) halogen such as chlorine or bromine, f) (thio)carboxamide -C(O)-N(Ra)2 or -C(S)-N(Ra)2, g) cyano, h) iso(thio)cyanate, i) (hetero)aryl such as phenyl or furyl, and j) (hetero)cycloalkyl such as anhydride, epoxide or dithiolane, l) α-cycloalkyl such as cyclohexyl, β-heterocycloalkyl such as sugar, preferably monosaccharide such as glucose, γ) (hetero)aryl such as phenyl, δ) cosmetic active agent, m) thiosulfate, and a') O, S, N(Ra) or Si(Rb)(Rc), b') S(O) ｒ , or X representing (thio)carbonyl, c') or a combination of a') and b'), for example, (thio)ester, (thio)amide, (thio)urea or sulfonamide; Ra represents a hydrogen atom, or a (C1-C4) alkyl group, or an aryl(C1-C4)alkyl group such as benzyl, preferably Ra represents a hydrogen atom; Rb and Rc may be the same or different and each represents a (C1-C4) alkyl or (C1-C4) alkoxy group, especially only one substituent; and / or a') O, S, N(Ra), and Si(Rb)(Rc), b') S(O) ｒ , (thio)carbonyl, heteroatoms such as c'), or a combination of a') and b'), for example (thio)esters, (thio)amides, (thio)ureas or sulfonamides (where r is equal to 1 or 2, Ra is as previously defined, preferably Ra represents a hydrogen atom, Rb and Rc are as previously defined; in particular, the modified polysaccharide is i) acacia gum; ii) ghatti gum; iii) karaya gum; iv) tragacanth gum; v) agar; vi) alginate; vii) carrageenan and furcellaran; viii) guar gum; ix) locust bean gum; x) fenugreek gum; xi) tamarind gum; xii) konjac gum; xiii) xanthan gum or dehydroxanthan gum; xiv) gellan gum; xv) scleroglucan gum; xvi) cellulose; xvii) starch; xviii) inulin; and xix) pectin; preferably selected from xvi), xvii) and xviii), more preferably obtained from xvi).

25. The modified polysaccharide is as follows: - a polysaccharide ether called alkyl polysaccharide, in which the alkyl group contains 2 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 10 carbon atoms, more preferably 2 to 6 carbon atoms; preferably obtained from cellulose or guar or a mixture thereof; preferably, the modified polysaccharide is an alkyl cellulose in which the linear or branched alkyl residue contains 1 to 10 carbon atoms, particularly 2 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 3 carbon atoms; preferably selected from ethyl cellulose and propyl cellulose, and preferably the alkyl cellulose is ethyl cellulose; and - a polysaccharide ester; and selected from mixtures thereof; preferably, the modified polysaccharide is selected from dextrin palmitate, myristoyl pullulan, ethyl cellulose, ethyl guar; and a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 24 comprising mixtures thereof.

26. The modified polysaccharide is present in the composition in an amount of 0.05% to 20% by weight, preferably 0.1% to 15% by weight, more preferably 0.2% to 12% by weight, and even better 0.5% to 10% by weight, and / or the mass ratio of the total amount of the resin present in the composition to the total amount of the modified polysaccharide is in the range of 0.05 to 200, more preferably 0.1 to 100, more preferably 0.2 to 50, or more preferably 0.5 to 20, preferably 0.5 to 10, a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 25.

27. A cosmetic composition comprising at least one oily phase having the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 25 in a physiologically acceptable medium, wherein the oily phase is a continuous oily phase.

28. An oily composition, in particular an anhydrous composition, preferably in the form of an anhydrous dispersion, preferably an anhydrous solution, or an oil-in-water emulsion or a composition having several distinct phases, for example a two-phase composition, according to any one of claims 1 to 27.

29. Characterized by further having an aqueous phase in a total mass content within the range of 2 to 95% by weight, preferably 10 to 90% by weight, preferably 20 to 80% by weight, more particularly 30 to 60% by weight, based on the total mass of the composition, a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 28.

30. The total content of the oily phase is in the range of 5% to 100%, preferably 10% to 98% by mass, preferably 20% to 90% by mass, preferably 30% to 80% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 29, characterized in that.

31. The volatile oil is present in a content within the range of preferably 1% to 90% by mass, preferably 2% to 70%, preferably 3% to 50%, preferably 5% to 45% by mass, preferably 8% to 40% by mass, and even more preferably 10% to 35% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 30.

32. Particularly, it further contains at least one pigment selected from hydrophobic surface treatment agents, particularly N-acylated amino acids and / or their salts, particularly glutamate derivatives and / or their salts, particularly stearoyl glutamate, such as aluminum stearoyl glutamate-coated, preferably organic pigments and / or titanium dioxide and / or iron oxide. Preferably, the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 31, which contains a pigment selected from organic pigments and / or titanium dioxide.

33. The composition according to claim 32, containing at least 2% by mass of pigment, preferably at least 5% by mass of pigment, more preferably 5% to 40% by mass of pigment, particularly 10% to 30% by mass of pigment, and more particularly 10% to 20% by mass of pigment, based on the total mass of the composition.

34. In the form of foundation, lipstick, mascara, eyeliner, concealer or corrector, eyebrow product, skin care product, sunscreen product, sanitary product, hair styling product or hair dyeing product, or nail varnish. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 33.

35. Containing less than 10%, preferably less than 5%, preferably less than 1%, preferably less than 0.5%, preferably less than 0.1% of synthetic resin, preferably containing no synthetic resin, and / or preferably, less than 10%, preferably less than 5%, preferably less than 1%, preferably less than 0.5%, preferably less than 0.1% of silicone resin, preferably containing no silicone resin. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 34.

36. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 35, comprising silicone oil, particularly volatile silicone oil, in an amount of less than 30%, preferably less than 20%, preferably less than 10%, preferably less than 1%, preferably less than 0.5%, preferably less than 0.2%, preferably less than 0.1%, based on the total mass of the composition, and ideally the composition does not contain silicone oil.

37.

38. A method for coating a keratinous substance, more particularly for making up and / or caring for a keratinous substance such as the skin, comprising applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 36 to the keratinous substance. Use of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 36 for improving the persistence and / or resistance to friction without increasing the adhesive effect of the film obtained by applying the composition to the keratinous substance.

Images