Oily solid cosmetic

Abstract

To provide an oily solid cosmetic which contains a naturally derived component as a main component of a solid oil, is easily taken off with fingers, does not have stickiness and gloss, and has high stability.SOLUTION: An oily solid cosmetic comprising: (A) 10 to 40% by mass of a sunflower seed wax; (B) 0.1 to 10% by mass of an oil gelling agent; (C) 20 to 80% by mass of a liquid oil; and (D) 1 to 60% by mass of a semisolid oil excluding hydrocarbons and having a melting point of 30 to 50 °C.SELECTED DRAWING: None

Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] The present invention relates to an oily solid cosmetic preparation. In particular, the present invention relates to an oily solid cosmetic preparation whose main constituents are naturally derived ingredients, which spreads easily onto fingers, and which is highly stable. [Background technology]

[0002] Balm-type oily solid cosmetics have been used in skin and hair cosmetics due to the advantage that the cosmetics can be spread widely over the application area using fingers or a spatula, etc. These oily solid cosmetics have moisturizing properties due to the oily ingredients being the main base, and in the case of hair cosmetics, for example, they have properties such as good hair setting ability, matte finish, and moldability. However, oily solid cosmetics also have issues such as stickiness, heavy finish, and sweating at high temperatures.

[0003] To solve these problems, cosmetics have been developed by adjusting the type of wax and the type and amount of oil used in combination. Furthermore, in recent years, with the growing global focus on environmental friendliness, there has been a demand for cosmetics that do not contain synthetic or mineral solid oils and that comply with the Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs).

[0004] BACKGROUND ART Oily solid cosmetics containing a volatile oil agent, which are characterized by being formulated with sunflower seed wax and inulin fatty acid ester, have been known (see, for example, Patent Document 1).

[0005] Another known hair balm contains 20 to 85 mass% of liquid oil (A), 0.1 to 20 mass% of a solidifying agent (B) that solidifies the liquid oil (A), 1 to 35 mass% of waxes (C), and 1 to 60 mass% of at least one selected from paste-like oils and fats and vegetable oils (D) (see, for example, Patent Document 2). [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]

[0006] [Patent Document 1] Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2013-107827 [Patent Document 2] Japanese Patent Application Publication No. 2020-050612 Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0007] However, oil-based solid cosmetics containing plant-derived solid oils as their main ingredient have had problems with high-temperature stability. Furthermore, compositions with enhanced high-temperature stability have the drawback of poor finger-removal. There is a demand for oil-based solid cosmetics that contain plant-derived components as the main solid oil component, have good high-temperature stability, are easier to remove with fingers than conventional balm-type oil-based solid cosmetics, are non-sticky, and have a light finish. [Means for solving the problem]

[0008] As a result of extensive research, the present inventors have completed the present invention by combining sunflower seed wax, which is a vegetable wax, with a specific oil gelling agent and a semi-solid oil.

[0009] According to one embodiment, the present invention provides an oily solid cosmetic comprising the following components (A) to (D): (A) Sunflower seed wax 10 to 40% by mass (B) 0.1 to 10 mass% of an oil gelling agent (C) 20 to 80 mass% of liquid oil (D) 1 to 60% by mass of semi-solid oil, excluding hydrocarbons, having a melting point of 30 to 50°C An oily solid cosmetic comprising:

[0010] In the oily solid cosmetic, it is preferable that (B) contains a dextrin fatty acid ester.

[0011] In the oily solid cosmetic, it is preferable that the amount of (A) is 15 to 35% by mass, and the amount of (B) is 0.5 to 8% by mass.

[0012] In the oily solid cosmetic, it is preferable that the amount of (C) is 30 to 70% by mass, and the amount of (D) is 2 to 40% by mass.

[0013] It is preferable that the oil-based solid cosmetic contains no synthetic wax in an amount exceeding 1% by mass relative to the total mass of the oil-based solid cosmetic. [Effects of the Invention]

[0014] The oily solid cosmetic according to the present invention contains a naturally derived component as the main component of the solid oil, and is highly stable, non-sticky, and easy to remove with fingers. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0015] According to one embodiment, the present invention relates to an oily solid cosmetic. The oily solid cosmetic of the present invention refers to a cosmetic that is solid at room temperature (20 to 30°C) and contains an oily base material containing fats, oils, waxes, etc., and may optionally contain other ingredients. Hereinafter, in this specification, the term "oil-based solid cosmetic" may be omitted and simply referred to as "cosmetic."

[0016] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention contains the following (A), (B), (C), and (D) as essential ingredients, and may further contain optional ingredients. (A) Sunflower seed wax 10 to 40% by mass (B) 0.1 to 10 mass% of an oil gelling agent (C) 20 to 80 mass% of liquid oil (D) 1 to 60% by mass of a semi-solid oil having a melting point of 30 to 50°C Each component will be described below.

[0017] (A) Sunflower seed wax Component (A) is sunflower seed wax. Sunflower seed wax is a natural wax obtained from sunflower seeds. The sunflower seed wax may be any refined sunflower seed wax, and is not particularly limited. Commercially available sunflower seed waxes include Refined Sunflower Wax FP-1S (manufactured by Nippon Natural Products Co., Ltd.), Refined Sunflower Wax (manufactured by Yokoseki Yushi Kogyo Co., Ltd.), and TOWAX-6F2 (manufactured by Toa Kasei Co., Ltd.).

[0018] Component (A) is contained in an amount of 10 to 40% by mass, assuming the total mass of the cosmetic is 100%. By containing 10 to 40% by mass of component (A), the hardness of the cosmetic is reduced and it becomes easier to remove with your fingers, provided that it is used in combination with a specified amount of component (B) described below. If component (A) is less than 10%, even if the specified amount of component (B) described below is used, the cosmetic will have poor high-temperature stability, such as being unable to maintain its shape or causing sweating at high temperatures. If component (A) is more than 40%, it will be too hard when filled into a jar or the like, making it difficult to remove with your fingers.

[0019] As used herein, "fingertip removability" refers to the ease with which a cosmetic user can remove an oily solid cosmetic composition of the present invention from a container such as a mold or jar at room temperature when the cosmetic composition is placed in the container and the user attempts to remove the oily solid cosmetic composition with their fingers. Typically, when attempting to remove an oily solid cosmetic composition solidified with wax with one's fingers, the fingers slip, and only the surface portion of the oily solid cosmetic composition can be removed. However, "good finger removability" refers to the ability to remove a volume of cosmetic composition equivalent to or greater than the volume of a fingertip with one action. "Stability" refers to the change in state of an oily solid cosmetic composition over time, and "good high-temperature stability" refers to the ability of an oily solid cosmetic composition to melt and become liquid at temperatures of approximately 40 to 50°C, without oil seeping out from the marks left by the finger. Furthermore, the ability of an oily solid cosmetic composition to no longer maintain its shape refers to the ability of the oily solid cosmetic composition to become fluid.

[0020] The preferred content of component (A) is 15 to 35% by mass. Within this range, higher stability and better finger removability are achieved. The most preferred content of component (A) is 20 to 30% by mass. By including component (A) in this range, a cosmetic preparation with the best balance of finger removability and stability can be obtained.

[0021] (B) Oil gelling agent Component (B) is an oil gelling agent. The oil gelling agent is not particularly limited as long as it is a substance capable of gelling and solidifying component (C). Examples of the oil gelling agent include dextrin fatty acid esters and inulin fatty acid esters. Specific examples of the oil gelling agent include, but are not limited to, dextrin palmitate and dextrin myristate. Commercially available oil gelling agents include Leopearl KL2, Leopearl KS2, and Leopearl MKL2 (all manufactured by Chiba Flour Mills Co., Ltd.). Note that waxes are not included in the oil gelling agent of component (B). Examples of substances that fall under the category of waxes and may also fall under the category of oil gelling agents by general definition include, but are not limited to, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated castor oil, and hydrocarbons.

[0022] Component (B) is contained in an amount of 0.1 to 10% by mass, assuming the total mass of the cosmetic is 100%. By containing component (B) in an amount of 0.1 to 10% by mass, the hardness of the cosmetic can be reduced and the cosmetic can be easily removed with fingers, provided that it is used in combination with the specified amount of component (A) described above. If component (B) is contained in an amount of less than 0.1% by mass, the cosmetic will be hard when filled into a container such as a jar, making it difficult to remove with fingers and resulting in poor stability. If it is contained in an amount exceeding 10% by mass, the cosmetic will be too hard and difficult to remove with fingers.

[0023] The preferred content of component (B) is 0.5 to 8% by mass. Within this range, higher stability and better finger removability are achieved. The most preferred content of component (B) is 1 to 7% by mass. By including component (B) in this range, a cosmetic preparation with the best balance of finger removability and stability can be obtained.

[0024] (C) Liquid oil Component (C) is an oil that is liquid at 25°C. The liquid oil may be a naturally derived component or a petroleum-derived component, and its origin is not important. However, it is preferable to use only a small amount of silicone oil, and it is even more preferable to not use any silicone oil. This is because silicone oil is difficult to decompose in the natural environment and places a high burden on the environment. A small amount means approximately 1% by mass or less of the total mass of the cosmetic. Component (C) may be a volatile or non-volatile liquid oil, and is not particularly limited. Specific examples of liquid oils include hydrocarbons such as liquid paraffin, heavy liquid isoparaffin, squalane, polyisobutylene, and polybutene; fats and oils such as olive oil, castor oil, jojoba oil, mink oil, and macadamia nut oil; isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, octyldodecyl myristate, glyceryl trioctanoate, diglyceryl diisostearate, diglyceryl triisostearate, diglyceryl tetraisostearate, isotridecyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl ethylhexanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, dipentaerythritol tetra(hydroxystearate / isostearate), diglyceryl tetraisostearate, diglyceryl tetraisostearate, diisopropyl methyl acrylate ... Examples of suitable ester oils include neopentyl glycol caprate, diisostearyl malate, tritridecyl trimellitate, propylene glycol dicaprate, cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl hydroxystearate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, octyldodecyl stearoyloxystearate, trimethylolpropane triisostearate, meadowfoam oil, and 2-ethylhexyl paramethoxycinnamate; branched and unsaturated fatty acids such as isostearic acid and oleic acid; and branched and unsaturated higher alcohols such as octyldodecanol, decyltetradecanol, oleyl alcohol, and isostearyl alcohol. These may be used alone or in combination. Using a combination of two or more may improve the feel, such as moisturizing.

[0025] Component (C) is contained in an amount of 20 to 80% by mass, assuming the total mass of the cosmetic is 100%. By containing component (C) in an amount of 20 to 80% by mass, the stickiness of the cosmetic can be reduced and a matte finish can be achieved, provided that it is used in combination with a specified amount of component (D), a semi-solid oil, described below. If component (C) is contained in an amount less than 20% by mass, the cosmetic will become sticky and too hard, making it difficult to remove with your fingers. If the amount exceeds 80% by mass, stability will be reduced, such as causing sweating at high temperatures, and the finished product will lose its matte finish. Furthermore, when used as a hair cosmetic, sufficient setting power will not be achieved. Furthermore, if component (C) is contained in an amount less than 20% by mass and the semi-solid oil, component (D), described below, exceeds 60% by mass, a matte finish will not be achieved.

[0026] As used herein, "matt feeling" refers to the lack of glossiness and the natural finish that results when the oily solid cosmetic composition according to the present invention is applied to the skin or hair. "Sticky" refers to the unpleasant stickiness or clinginess felt when touched with the skin after application. Furthermore, "setting power" refers to the ability to create and maintain a flow in the hair while the cosmetic composition adheres to the hair surface when applied to the scalp, eyebrows, etc. High setting power leads to a lighter finish.

[0027] The preferred content of component (C) is 30 to 70% by mass. Within this range, higher stability and improved finger removability are achieved. Furthermore, a more matte finish is achieved, there is no stickiness, and setting power is also excellent. The most preferred content of component (C) is 35 to 65% by mass. By including component (C) in this range, a cosmetic preparation with the best balance of finger removability, stickiness, and matte finish stability can be obtained.

[0028] (D) Semi-solid oil Component (D) is a semi-solid oil with a melting point of 30 to 50°C. A semi-solid oil is a paste-like oil. However, component (D) does not contain hydrocarbons. Semi-solid oils made of hydrocarbons are not preferred because they impair the stability of the cosmetic. The semi-solid oil is preferably derived from a plant, and specific examples include shea butter, hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated cocoglyceryl, triglyceride (C10-18), dipentaerythrityl hexahydroxystearate, phytosteryl macadamiate, hydrogenated castor oil isostearate, hydrogenated cocoglyceryl, dipentaerythrityl hexahydroxystearate / hexastearic acid / hexarosinate, phytosteryl / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dimer dilinoleate, Theobroma grandiflorum seed butter, myristyl myristate, and hydrogenated castor oil stearate. Examples of semi-solid oils include macadamia nut oil fatty acid phytosteryl, lauroyl glutamic acid di(octyldodecyl / phytosteryl / behenyl), isostearic acid / behenic acid glyceryl / polyglyceryl-6 esters. Commercially available semi-solid oils include, but are not limited to, CROPURE SHEA BUTTER-SO-(JP) (manufactured by Croda Japan Co., Ltd.) and SOFTISAN 154 (manufactured by IOI Oleo GmbH).

[0029] Component (D) is contained in an amount of 1 to 60% by mass, assuming the total mass of the cosmetic is 100%. By containing component (D) in an amount of 1 to 60% by mass, when used in combination with a specified amount of component (C), the cosmetic can be made less sticky, have a matte finish, and not be too hard. If component (D) is contained in an amount of less than 1% by mass, the matte finish cannot be obtained, and when used as a hair cosmetic, the setting power will be insufficient. If the amount exceeds 60% by mass, the cosmetic will become sticky or too hard, making it difficult to remove with your fingers.

[0030] The preferred content of component (D) is 2 to 40% by mass. This provides better finger removal, a more matte finish, no stickiness, and better setting power. The most preferred content of component (D) is 5 to 20% by mass. By including component (D) in this range, a cosmetic preparation can be obtained that is well-balanced in terms of finger removal, stickiness, matte finish, and stability.

[0031] (e) Optional component In addition to the essential components (A) to (D) above, the cosmetic may contain optional components depending on the type and purpose of the cosmetic. In one embodiment, the oily solid cosmetic according to the present invention may be used as a hair cosmetic. In another embodiment, the oily solid cosmetic according to the present invention may be used for moisturizing purposes and may contain components that assist moisturizing as optional components.

[0032] An example of an optional component is a plant-derived wax other than component (A). Specific examples of plant-derived waxes include, but are not limited to, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, hydrogenated jojoba oil, and hydrogenated castor oil. The content of these plant-derived waxes is, for example, 4% by mass or less, preferably 3% by mass or less, and more preferably 2% by mass or less, when the total mass of the cosmetic is taken as 100%. The combined use of a plant-derived wax other than component (A) with component (A) can bring about changes in usability and may result in a desirable feel. On the other hand, it is preferable that the amount of synthetic waxes such as hydrocarbon waxes and silicone waxes does not exceed 1% by mass relative to the total mass of the oil-based solid cosmetic. This is because if the amount exceeds 1% by mass, the cosmetic becomes hard, causing poor finger dripping and an undesirable feel.

[0033] Other examples of optional ingredients include other ingredients commonly used in cosmetics, quasi-drugs, pharmaceutical compositions, etc., such as oils other than those mentioned above, water, polymeric compounds, plant extracts, fragrances, colorants, surfactants, antioxidants, preservatives, moisturizers, polyhydric alcohols, lower alcohols, sugars, UV absorbers, whitening agents, skin activators, blood circulation promoters, antiseborrheic agents, anti-inflammatory agents, astringents, and cooling agents. The content of these optional ingredients can be appropriately set depending on the purpose. For example, when water is included, the amount may be less than 5% by mass, assuming the total mass of the cosmetic to be 100%.

[0034] Next, the method for producing a cosmetic according to the present invention includes the following steps. (1) A process of heating oil components (A), (B), (C), and (D) to approximately 100 to 110°C and mixing them uniformly to prepare a mixed liquid. (2) A step of filling the mixture prepared in (1) above into a jar container at 75 to 85°C and then cooling it. By carrying out steps (1) and (2) in this order, an oily solid cosmetic can be obtained.

[0035] The oil-based solid cosmetic according to the present invention can be applied to the skin of the body, including the face, as well as hair, nails, etc. Specific examples of oil-based solid cosmetic products include, but are not limited to, hair cosmetics, moisturizers, cleansers, balms, etc. More specific products include moisturizing balms, hair styling products, eyebrow mascara, hair mascara, etc. Oil-based solid cosmetic products are generally stored in containers such as jars or molds, and are used in a form that can be directly dispensed with the fingers. [Example]

[0036] The present invention will be described in more detail below with reference to examples. However, the present invention is not limited to the following examples. Oily solid cosmetic preparations (balms) were prepared based on the compositions of the examples and comparative examples shown in Tables 1 and 2 below, and their properties were evaluated.

[0037] 1. Method for preparing oil-based solid cosmetics The oily solid cosmetic preparations were prepared by the above steps (1) and (2) using the ingredients listed in the following Tables 1 and 2. The heating temperature was 100 to 110°C.

[0038] 2. Evaluation The obtained oily solid cosmetic preparation was subjected to a sensory evaluation and a stability test. The evaluation methods and criteria were as follows.

[0039] (1) Sensory test Five expert panelists performed sensory evaluations on a scale of 1 to 5 in accordance with the following panelist evaluation criteria for the cosmetics shown in the Examples and Comparative Examples regarding "finger removal," "stickiness," "matt feeling (lack of shine)," and "setting power," and calculated the average score (rounded to one decimal place). Next, based on the average score, a four-point rating was conducted in accordance with the cosmetic performance evaluation criteria. ◎: Average score is 4 points or more 〇: Average score is 3 or more but less than 4 points △: Average score is between 2 and 3 points ×: Average score is less than 2 points

[0040] <Evaluation method for finger removal> At room temperature, five panelists, one for each, evaluated the ease of taking the cosmetic material filled in the jar (15 g) with their fingers. <Evaluation criteria for finger picking> 5: Very easy to take 4: Easy to take 3: Hard and difficult to remove, but not a problem 2: Hard and difficult to remove 1: Very hard and difficult to remove

[0041] <Method for evaluating stickiness> At room temperature, five panelists each took 1 g of the cosmetic product, spread it on their forearms, and evaluated the stickiness. <Evaluation criteria for stickiness> 5: Very non-sticky 4: Not sticky 3: Sticky, but not too noticeable 2: Sticky 1: Very sticky

[0042] <Method for evaluating matte finish> At room temperature, each of five panelists took 1 g of the cosmetic product, spread it on their forearms, and evaluated the gloss. <Evaluation criteria for matte finish> 5: Very matte 4: Matte 3: There is some gloss, but it is not noticeable. 2: Shiny 1: Very shiny

[0043] <How to evaluate setting power> At room temperature, each of five panelists took 1g of the cosmetic product and applied it evenly to human hair or a Beaulux wig, and then immediately evaluated the ease of creating a flow in the hair (setting power). <Setting power evaluation criteria> 5: It is very easy to create hair flow and does not fall apart over time. 4: Easy to create hair flow, but becomes slightly distorted over time 3: It is a little difficult to create a flowing hair style, but it is not a problem and it tends to break down slightly over time. 2: It is difficult to create a flowing hair style, and it almost falls apart over time. 1: It is very difficult to create a hair flow and it is impossible to maintain it. It should be noted that the setting power is a test for evaluating the properties of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention when used as a hair cosmetic composition, and setting power is not required for all oily solid cosmetic compositions. Even if a cosmetic composition does not perform well in the evaluation criteria for setting power, if it excels in other evaluation items, it is considered to achieve the effects of the present invention.

[0044] (2) Storage stability test 100g of oil-based solid cosmetics of the Examples and Comparative Examples were placed in a plastic jar, sealed, and stored at each temperature for approximately three days, and their properties were checked upon removal. Three samples were prepared for each composition, and the storage stability of each sample was checked under three different temperature conditions: 40°C, 50°C, and a cycle test. The cycle test conditions were: 8 hours at -5°C, 4 hours at 20°C and 85% humidity, 8 hours at 40°C and 85% humidity, and 4 hours at 20°C and 85% humidity, after which the properties were checked.

[0045] <Evaluation criteria for each sample under different temperature conditions> ○: No sweating △: Tiny, dot-like sweating like sesame seeds was observed ×: Obvious sweating on the surface <Evaluation criteria for storage stability based on the combined evaluation of each sample> ◎: All three samples in the cycle test at 50℃ and 40℃ were rated as 〇 〇: Of the three samples, one was rated △, but no was rated × △: Of the three samples, there are 2-3 △ ratings, but no × ratings ×: At least one out of three samples was rated ×

[0046] 3.Results Tables 1 to 4 below show the composition and evaluation results of each cosmetic. The numerical values ​​of the components in the tables represent the mass percent concentration when the total mass of the cosmetic is 100%, and if the corresponding component is not included, it is indicated with "-". The total of each component in the tables is 100%. Substances that fall under essential components (A), (B), (C), and (D) are indicated by the corresponding symbol in the leftmost column of each table.

[0047] The specific product names of the components used in Table 1 are as follows: Sunflower Seed Wax Refined Sunflower Wax FP-1S (manufactured by Nippon Natural Products Co., Ltd.) Carnauba Wax T-1S (Nippon Natural Products Co., Ltd.) PERFORMA SW-84 Synthetic Wax (NuCera Solutions LLC) Candelilla Wax Refined Candelilla Wax CG-7 (manufactured by Japan Natural Products Co., Ltd.) Hydrogenated jojoba oil FLORAESTERS 70 (Cargill Inc.) Hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated castor oil A (manufactured by Ito Oil Mills Co., Ltd.) Palmitic acid dextrin Leopearl KL2 (manufactured by Chiba Flour Mills Co., Ltd.) Caprylic / capric triglyceride TCG-M / MB (Kyukyu Alcohol Kogyo Co., Ltd.) Squalane NIKKOL Sugar Squalane (manufactured by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd.) Shea butter CROPURE SHEA BUTTER-SO-(JP) (manufactured by Croda Japan Co., Ltd.) Polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate Lysolex PGIS22 / MB (Kyukyu Alcohol Kogyo Co., Ltd.) Tocopherol Tocopherol 100 (manufactured by Nisshin Oillio Co., Ltd.) Pentylene glycol Hydrolite 5 green (manufactured by Symrise Co., Ltd.)

[0048] [Table 1]

[0049] [Table 2]

[0050] [Table 3]

[0051] [Table 4]

[0052] As shown in Tables 1 to 4, the cosmetics of Examples 1 to 30 of the present application were highly stable and excellent in terms of finger removal, stickiness, and lack of shine, and by using naturally derived solid oil components, cosmetics with high usability were realized. Furthermore, all of the cosmetics of the examples were excellent in setting power and also functioned as hair styling products.

[0053] 4. Prescription examples The cosmetic composition of Example 1 can be used as a formulation for a moisturizing balm, and can produce a moisturizing balm that is excellent in stability and texture and is easy to remove with your fingers. It goes without saying that the present invention is not limited in any way by this formulation example, and is defined by the claims.

Claims

1. The following (A) to (D): (A) 10 to 40% by mass of sunflower seed wax (B) 0.1 to 10% by mass of an oil gelling agent (C) 20 to 80 mass% of liquid oil (D) 1 to 60% by mass of semi-solid oil, excluding hydrocarbons, having a melting point of 30 to 50°C An oily solid cosmetic comprising:

2. The oily solid cosmetic preparation according to claim 1, wherein (B) comprises a dextrin fatty acid ester.

3. 2. The oily solid cosmetic preparation according to claim 1, wherein the amount of (A) is 15 to 35% by mass, and the amount of (B) is 0.5 to 8% by mass.

4. 2. The oily solid cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the content of (C) is 30 to 70% by mass, and the content of (D) is 2 to 40% by mass.

5. 2. The oily solid cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the oily solid cosmetic contains no synthetic wax in an amount exceeding 1% by mass relative to the total mass of the oily solid cosmetic.

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