Liquid makeup composition

Abstract

The cosmetic composition is a water-in-silicone emulsion that does not contain D4 or D5. The external phase comprises a solvent system of methyl trimethicone and low-viscosity dimethicone, a film-former system containing trimethylsiloxysilicate (TMS), a rheology modifier, a pigment system containing one or more pigments surface-treated with triethoxycaprylylsilane, and a first part of a sebum-regulating system containing spherical and ellipsoidal silica shells. The aqueous phase may comprise a second part of the sebum-regulating system, a water-soluble skin care active, and a preservative system.

Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] The present invention is in the field of topical skin compositions, particularly color cosmetics, such as liquid foundations and concealers, that exhibit stable color and transfer resistance over time. [Background technology]

[0002] Formulating commercially viable color cosmetic compositions is complicated by various, sometimes competing, requirements. These requirements include color stability, transfer resistance, and sufficient play time while maintaining a matte finish, comfort, regulatory compliance, and overall product stability. We consider two types of color stability. The first is shelf life; how well or poorly does a composition maintain its color in a container for weeks or months before application to the skin surface? Another threat to product stability arises as a result of skin contact. Within hours of application, skin sebum, sweat, and tears can adversely affect both color and finish (matte vs. glossy), generally causing a color shift and an overly glossy appearance of the applied composition. Furthermore, applied makeup can be destabilized by skin secretions that wash the makeup off.

[0003] For some time, cyclomethicone, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (simply known as D4), and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (known as D5) have been used as solvents in water-in-silicone makeup compositions. D4 is the more volatile of the two. At room temperature, D4 ​​dries and forms a film on the skin, which provides more stable and long-lasting makeup coverage and transfer resistance. In contrast, D5 has low volatility at room temperature but offers certain benefits, including as an emollient, moisturizer, and viscosity adjuster. However, D4 and D5 have come under regulatory scrutiny for their questionable persistence in the environment. This has led to a desire to remove D4 and D5 solvents from commercially available cosmetics.

[0004] When preparing a colored water-in-silicone emulsion composition, the pigment is usually milled and pre-dispersed in a silicone solvent. This preliminary step generally improves color intensity by ensuring optimal dispersion of the pigment in the final composition. The pigment may be surface-treated to facilitate wetting of the pigment by the solvent. Dispersants may also be used to prevent agglomeration of the pre-dispersed pigment. The size to which the pigment particles should be milled before being incorporated into the cosmetic composition varies depending on the chemical identity of the pigment itself and the specific surface treatment, dispersant, and solvent used.

[0005] It has not been an easy challenge for the industry to find a way to achieve color stability, transfer resistance, sufficient application time, and opacity without using D4 and D5, while maintaining a matte finish, comfort, and overall product stability. Thus, there remains a need for a commercially viable cosmetic water-in-silicone emulsion composition that achieves all of these objectives without using D4 and D5.

[0006] Object of the invention The primary objective of the present invention is to provide a commercially viable cosmetic makeup composition that exhibits colorfastness over time, transfer resistance, opacity, and a pleasant feel while resistant to the degrading effects of skin secretions and without the use of D4 and D5. Summary of the Invention

[0007] The color cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises a solvent system of methyl trimethicone and low-viscosity dimethicone; a film-former system comprising trimethylsiloxysilicate (TMS); a pigment system comprising one or more pigments surface-treated with triethoxycaprylylsilane; and a sebum-regulating system comprising one or more of a silica shell, platy mica, and a sebum-regulating agent. The composition is a water-in-silicone emulsion and may also contain various skin benefit agents, but does not include D4 or D5. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0008] Throughout this specification, the term "comprises" and its cognates mean that the set of elements may not be limited to those expressly listed. All numerical concentrations and ratios are modified by the term "about" unless expressly stated otherwise. All percentages, parts, and ratios are based on the total weight of the compositions of the present invention unless otherwise specified. The term "weight percent" may also be indicated herein as "wt %."

[0009] As used herein, the term "volatile solvent" refers to a solvent that dissolves rapidly at room temperature, preferably at a rate of about 0.01 mg / cm 2 / min or greater. As used herein, the term "non-volatile solvent" refers to a solvent that does not evaporate rapidly at room temperature. Preferably, the non-volatile solvent has a volatility of about 0.002 mg / cm 2 / min or less. The evaporation rate in this specification is expressed as the evaporation rate per unit area (cm) per unit time (min). 2 ) is expressed as mg of solvent evaporated per 1000 ml of water.

[0010] As used herein, the term "water-soluble" means that the polymer is soluble in water. Generally, the polymer should be soluble in a water solvent at a concentration of at least 0.1% by weight, preferably at least 1% by weight, more preferably at least 5% by weight, and most preferably at least 15% by weight at 25°C. As used herein, the term "water-insoluble" means that the compound is not soluble in water. Therefore, the compound is not miscible with water.

[0011] Foreign Minister The makeup compositions of the present invention include a silicone-based external phase, which typically comprises about 50% to about 75% by weight of the total makeup composition. The external phase includes a solvent system, a film-former system, a rheology modifier, a pigment, a first portion of a sebum regulation system, and optionally, a skin or overall composition performance benefit agent.

[0012] Solvent System The solvent system is important for pigmented color cosmetics. In one example, the solvent wets the color pigments for easier and more uniform incorporation into the composition. However, as the solvent system dries, the cosmetic composition generally undergoes a color shift. This color shift needs to be optimized so that users can be confident in the final results of their makeup application. For example, when reformulating an existing commercial product to remove D4 and D5, the goal may be to create a new composition whose color shift is similar to that of the existing product. Additionally, the solvent system should evaporate at a rate that allows the user sufficient "play" time to apply and spread the composition on the skin without requiring so much time that the user feels wet for an extended period of time.

[0013] The present inventors have discovered that a solvent system containing a specific combination of methyl trimethicone and low viscosity dimethicone is highly beneficial as a cyclomethicone-free solvent system. 10 H 30methyl trimethicone (O3Si4) is a volatile branched silicone fluid with a viscosity of about 1.5 centistokes (cSt) at room temperature. Dimethicone is a linear silicone fluid whose viscosity and volatility depend on the polymer chain length. Generally, dimethicone viscosities range from less than 1 cSt to several million cSt. In the present invention, the dimethicone viscosity should not exceed 5 cSt, with viscosities of about 1 cSt to about 2 cSt being particularly preferred. Within these limits, useful results can be achieved when the ratio of methyl trimethicone to dimethicone is about 3:2 to 4:1, preferably 3:2 to 2:1. The most preferred ratio of methyl trimethicone to dimethicone for the purposes of the present invention is 3:2 to 7:4. The combined concentration of methyl trimethicone and dimethicone ranges from about 10% to about 40% by weight of the total makeup composition; for example, about 15% to about 30% by weight of the total makeup composition. More preferred is a concentration of about 20% to about 25% by weight of the total makeup composition. This well-defined solvent system, in combination with the film-former system and treated pigments described below, provides excellent wetting with stable color upon drying, while providing a reasonable application time and high opacity for covering skin imperfections.

[0014] Film-forming agent system The film-forming agent sub-system of the present invention includes trimethylsiloxysilicate (TMS). TMS (CH 1805Si3) is a transparent crosslinked MQ silicone resin polymer known for use in cosmetics. In the present invention, powdered or flaky trimethylsiloxysilicate is dispersed in the methyl trimethicone / dimethicone solvent system described above. When this TMS dispersion is spread on a surface and allowed to dry, it forms a film with high longevity and a non-sticky feel. This film is effective in holding suspended pigments in place and imparting color transfer resistance. It was not immediately apparent that there was a ratio of methyl trimethicone to dimethicone (as described above) that, when combined with a certain concentration of TMS resin, would provide beneficial results in terms of color stability, dry time, color transfer resistance, product feel, and overall product stability. Nevertheless, the inventors have found useful concentrations of TMS resin in makeup compositions according to the present invention. For example, with the concentrations and ratios of methyl trimethicone to low-viscosity dimethicone described above, useful concentrations of TMS can range from about 2% to about 15% by weight of the total makeup composition. Preferred is a concentration of from about 5% to about 12% by weight of the total makeup composition, for example from about 8% to about 10% by weight.

[0015] Contrast ratio as a function of TMS concentration Makeup compositions according to the present invention were prepared, each containing different amounts of TMS (3%, 5%, and 10%). For each composition, two thin film samples, 1 mil (0.0254 mm) thick, were prepared by spreading the composition on the black and white areas of a contrast ratio chart. The samples were allowed to dry for 24 hours. The CIE Y tristimulus value of each sample was then measured. The Y value represents luminance, and the ratio of the Y values, Y 黒 / Y 白gives the contrast ratio, where a higher contrast ratio corresponds to a more opaque material. It was observed that as the concentration of TMS increased, the opacity of the makeup composition also increased, which enhanced the makeup's coverage and ability to conceal skin imperfections. While beneficial, this was entirely unexpected, since TMS is transparent and would not be expected to have any effect on the opacity or the makeup composition's ability to conceal skin imperfections. Indeed, in the test samples described above, the increase in film opacity with increasing TMS was readily visible to the naked eye. It was unexpected that a transparent TMS could be used to improve a makeup composition's ability to conceal skin imperfections. Furthermore, when reformulating a commercially available composition to remove D4 and D5, the goal may be for the reformulated product to mimic the behavior of the original product. Adjusting the level of TMS to achieve an opacity similar to that of the original product would facilitate this goal. However, this was also unexpected, especially since TMS is highly transparent.

[0016] Rheology Modifiers / Suspending Agents The compositions according to the present invention typically contain one or more rheology modifiers and / or suspending agents. Organoclays such as disteardimonium hectorite and stearalkonium bentonite are known to be useful. Rheology modifiers and / or suspending agents are typically used in amounts up to about 3% by weight of the total makeup composition. Hectorite is typically treated with a polar activator to aid in the dispersion and stability of the organoclay. Examples of useful polar activators include triethyl citrate, propylene carbonate, propylene carbonate / water (95 / 5), and ethanol / water (95 / 5). The concentration of the polar activator is typically about 30% to about 50% of the organoclay concentration.

[0017] pigment The color and shade of the final composition are achieved using one or more cosmetic-grade powdered pigments dispersed throughout the composition. The ability to achieve consistent, stable color depends in part on achieving good pigment dispersion throughout the composition. Using the solvent and film-former system described above, the inventors have found that pigments surface-treated with triethoxycaprylylsilane provide very stable, faithful color. By "true color," we mean that there is a predictable color shift upon drying. This predictability is particularly beneficial when reformulating to remove D4 and D5, where the goal is for the reformulated product to match the color shift behavior of the original product. In testing, pigments surface-treated with triethoxycaprylylsilane performed better than, for example, pigments treated with methicone. Useful pigments are inorganic and insoluble in the solvent system in which they are dispersed. Examples of useful pigments include iron oxide, titanium dioxide, and mica. In the makeup composition according to the present invention, the total amount of all pigments coated with triethoxycaprylylsilane may range from about 5% to about 20% by weight of the total makeup composition.

[0018] sebum regulation system As mentioned above, one of the challenges in producing a color-true and stable makeup composition is skin contact.Several hours after application, skin sebum, sweat and tears have a detrimental effect on both color and finish (matt vs. glossy), generally causing the color shift and excessive glossy appearance of the applied composition.In addition, the applied makeup may be destabilized by skin secretions that wash off the makeup.Therefore, the present inventors have developed an effective sebum control system that does not prevent the realized benefits of the makeup composition as described above.

[0019] The first part of the sebum-regulating system is a sebum-absorbing system added to the external phase. It comprises hollow spherical and hollow ellipsoidal shells formed of porous silica and meets clearly defined specifications. Preferred are spherical shells with an average particle size of 10-14 μm and an oil absorption capacity of at least about 100 grams per 100 grams of spherical silica shells. Preferred ellipsoidal shells have an average particle size of about 2-4 μm and an oil absorption capacity of at least about 450 grams per 100 grams of ellipsoidal silica shells. The inventors have found that this combination of silica shells in a specific ratio provides excellent results. Silica particles meeting these specifications are available, for example, from Kobo Products. It was not clear that an effective sebum-regulating system could be developed that would not destabilize the color, stability, and sensory experience of the makeup compositions described herein. To achieve maximum effectiveness, the ratio of spherical silica shells to ellipsoidal silica shells (of the above types) should be about 1:1 to 4:1, preferably about 2:1 to 3:1. This relatively narrow range of ratios is effective in absorbing sebum and preventing it from destabilizing the applied makeup composition, thereby maintaining a powdery, matte appearance without color shift. Generally, the concentrations of the above-mentioned types of spherical and ellipsoidal silica shells are each in the range of about 0.1% to about 2.0% by weight of the total makeup composition. Optionally, the sebum-absorbing system may contain mica platelets in an amount of up to about 1% by weight of the total makeup composition.

[0020] Skin Benefit Agents Optionally, the internal phase may contain agents that benefit the skin or the overall performance of the composition, including, but not limited to, moisturizers, conditioning agents, lubricants, agents that improve the texture of the skin or the composition, skin barrier agents, sunscreens, and skin repair agents.

[0021] Minister of the Interior The compositions of the present invention comprise an internal aqueous phase, which may include the second part of the sebum regulation system, water-soluble skin care actives, and a preservative system. The aqueous phase typically comprises from about 25% to about 75% water of the total makeup composition.

[0022] As mentioned above, the present invention includes a first part of a sebum-regulating system added to the external phase. Optionally, but preferably, the composition according to the present invention also includes a second part of the sebum-regulating system added to the aqueous phase. This second part may include one or more sebum-regulating agents effective in reducing or preventing secretion of sebum onto the skin surface. Sebum-regulating agents that may be present in the internal phase in amounts up to about 5% of the total makeup composition include, for example, laminaria saccharina and niacinamide in amounts up to about 1% by weight of the total makeup composition.

[0023] Other components that can be present in aqueous phase include water-soluble skin care active substances that provide benefits to skin or the overall performance of makeup composition.Many such active substances are known in the art, but the present inventors particularly refer to resveratrol, hyaluronic acid, and Lactobacillus fermentation product, each of which accounts for up to about 2% by weight of the total makeup composition.Usually, aqueous phase also comprises preservative system, which accounts for up to about 2% by weight of the total makeup composition.

[0024] Form of composition The liquid makeup composition according to the present invention is in the form of a water-in-silicone emulsion and comprises from about 2% to about 10% by weight of the total makeup composition of a surfactant system. The surfactant system is effective in creating a water-in-silicone emulsion. Useful examples include lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone and dimethicone / PEG-10 / 15 crosspolymer and PEG-10 dimethicone.

[0025] Non-limiting examples The following is an example of a water-in-silicone liquid makeup composition. This example is not intended to limit the present invention. Modifications can be made by those skilled in the art without departing from the spirit and scope of the present invention.

[0026] [Table 1] 1 Kobo Products, Inc. MSS-500W 2 Shells-SH (with a methoxyamodimethicone / silsesquioxane copolymer coating) from Kobo Products, Inc. 3 Phenoxyethanol / Chlorphenesin / Glycerin / Sorbic Acid

[0027] Compositions according to the above formula fulfill the primary objectives of the present invention, providing commercially viable cosmetic makeup compositions that are particularly resistant to the degrading effects of skin secretions, yet exhibit colorfastness over time, transfer resistance, and a pleasant feel without the use of D4 and D5. An unexpected advantage is that opacity (the ability of the finished makeup product to conceal skin imperfections) can be fine-tuned by adjusting the concentration of TMS.

[0028] While particular embodiments of the present invention have been illustrated and described, it would be obvious to those skilled in the art that various other changes and modifications can be made without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention. It is therefore intended in the appended claims to cover all such changes and modifications that are within the scope of this invention.

Claims

1. 1. A water-in-silicone emulsion makeup composition comprising an external phase and an internal water phase, said external phase comprising: a solvent system comprising methyl trimethicone and low viscosity dimethicone; a film former system including trimethylsiloxysilicate; one or more rheology modifiers; one or more pigments surface-treated with triethoxycaprylylsilane; a first part of a sebum regulation system comprising spherical silica shells and ellipsoidal silica shells; Including, The composition contains octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (D ４ ) or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (D ５ 1. A water-in-silicone emulsion makeup composition that does not contain

2. 2. The water-in-silicone emulsion makeup composition of claim 1, wherein the low-viscosity dimethicone has a viscosity of 1 to 2 cSt and the ratio of methyl trimethicone to low-viscosity dimethicone is 3:2 to 4:

1.

3. 3. The water-in-silicone emulsion makeup composition of claim 2, wherein the combined concentration of the methyl trimethicone and the low-viscosity dimethicone ranges from 10% to 40% by weight of the makeup composition.

4. 4. The water-in-silicone emulsion makeup composition of claim 3, wherein the concentration of the trimethylsiloxysilicate ranges from 2% to 15% by weight of the total makeup composition.

5. 4. A water-in-silicone emulsion makeup composition according to claim 3, wherein the total concentration of all pigments coated with triethoxycaprylylsilane is from 5% to 20% by weight of the total makeup composition.

6. 2. The water-in-silicone emulsion makeup composition according to claim 1, wherein the spherical silica shells have an average particle size of 10 to 14 μm and an oil absorption capacity of at least 100 grams of oil per 100 grams of spherical silica shells, and the ellipsoidal silica shells have an average particle size of 2 to 4 μm and an oil absorption capacity of at least 450 grams of oil per 100 grams of ellipsoidal silica shells.

7. The concentration of the spherical silica shells and ellipsoidal silica shells is 0.1% to 2.0% by weight of the total makeup composition; and 7. The water-in-silicone emulsion makeup composition of claim 6, wherein the ratio of spherical silica shells to ellipsoidal silica shells is from 1:1 to 4:

1.

8. 25% to 50% water based on the total makeup composition; a second part of the sebum regulating system comprising one or more sebum regulating agents; a water-soluble skin care active; Preservatives and 3. The water-in-silicone emulsion makeup composition of claim 2, comprising:

9. 9. The water-in-silicone emulsion makeup composition of claim 8, wherein the one or more sebum regulating agents are laminaria saccharina and niacinamide in an amount of up to about 1% by weight of the total makeup composition.

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