Hair treatment composition

Abstract

A hair treatment composition comprising (a) a surfactant in a solvent in an amount of 0.01 to 10% by weight of the total composition, and (b) a mixture of amino acids, wherein the mixture of amino acids comprises glutamic acid, alanine, and proline, provides damage repair benefits to chemically damaged hair.

Description

[Technical field]

[0001] The present invention relates to a dilute surfactant composition for the treatment of hair, comprising a mixture of amino acids, its use for mitigating the effects of chemical attack, and a method for treating chemically damaged hair using said composition. [Background technology]

[0002] Hair is mainly composed of proteins, especially keratin. Healthy hair has healthy proteins, whereas damaged hair has damaged proteins depending on the degree and type of damage. Protein loss and protein replacements such as amino acids are characteristic of damaged hair. The denaturation temperature of hair is a reliable indicator of the level of damage and loss of proteins that compose hair. Damage to hair proteins is reflected by a decrease in the denaturation temperature of proteins. Once hair is damaged, it becomes more susceptible to further protein loss and therefore to reduced integrity and further damage.

[0003] Hair is subjected to various "assaults" in daily life or as part of normal hair care regimes or consumer habits. These include chemical attacks (e.g. bleaching, dyeing and the use of detergents). These attacks damage the hair structure and proteins.

[0004] This damage manifests itself in many forms, including surface damage, chipped scales, lifted scales, reduced shine, reduced smoothness, breakage, split ends, damaged and lost cuticles, and difficulty in styling. Additionally, damaged hair is more porous, which means that the hair is weaker, more prone to breakage, frizz, and more susceptible to further damage. There is a need to mitigate these effects.

[0005] Treatments are known that address the problem of hair damage due to chemical hair treatments, and these treatments may involve the use of amino acids.

[0006] EP 2886162 (Henkel) discloses a hair treatment agent containing a homopolymer or copolymer (containing a vegetable oil monomer), a quaternary ammonium compound and an ester oil. The hair treatment agent may also contain at least one amino acid. The composition aims to improve physical damage caused by brushing and drying with a hair dryer, in particular split ends and breakage. Damage caused by repeated hair treatments, such as oxidative or reductive hair treatments, which can damage the hair structure, and by too frequent washing of the hair, heat during drying and the action of environmental factors and / or mechanical influences are also mentioned.

[0007] WO 14 / 202655 (L'Oreal) discloses a composition for treating keratin fibers, comprising a combination of acrylic polymer particles, a silicone block copolymer and at least one amino acid or amino acid derivative, which effectively coats the hair and is durable against shampoos and the various attacking factors to which the hair may be exposed, in particular blow-drying and perspiration, while at the same time exhibiting high resistance to fatty substances such as sebum, without exhibiting sticky properties.

[0008] US Patent Application No. 2015 / 272860 (Henkel) discloses a hair treatment composition comprising at least one amino acid and / or at least one oligopeptide and / or at least one cationic protein hydrolysate and a sugar structure-containing silicone, which is preferably intended to reduce environmental effects during oxidative and surfactant hair treatments and side effects of oxidative and surfactant hair treatments.

[0009] WO 14 / 090513 (Henkel) discloses a composition for treating keratin fibres to prevent dryness and split ends, comprising a quaternary ammonium compound, an odourant, a zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactant and a silicone-containing sugar structure. The composition may contain amino acids.

[0010] WO 12 / 031069 (Zotos Int Inc) discloses a treatment composition comprising a mixture of peptides consisting of either serine, tyrosine, arginine, threonine, glycine, valine, phenylalanine, cysteine ​​and leucine, with sequences identical to those of the keratin protein of human hair. The composition is intended to benefit the strength, manageability and general conditioning of the hair, and may be substantive to the hair using natural amino acids.

[0011] US Patent Application No. 2008 / 058400 (Fujifilm) discloses a skin preparation containing at least the amino acids arginine, aspartic acid, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, threonine, glycine, histidine, serine, valine, tyrosine, cysteine, phenylalanine, hydroxyproline and acylglutamine, or salts thereof, which can be used as a lotion, milky lotion, cream, hair tonic or pack.

[0012] French Patent Application Publication No. 2853531 (Sephytal) discloses an after-shampoo composition containing a mixture of free amino acids identical to those in human hair and quaternary amine salts with a fatty chain of 22 carbon atoms of the behenyl type, derived from natural rapeseed oil. These amino acids include glutamic acid, arginine, proline, aspartic acid, leucine, phenylalanine, serine, lysine, glycine, valine, tyrosine, isoleucine, alanine, threonine, histidine, methionine and cystine. The composition is intended to provide very dry, damaged or brittle hair with improved detangling after washing and rinsing, gentle and significantly improved breathability and more pronounced shine.

[0013] WO 00 / 51556 (P&G) discloses a hair care composition comprising four or more amino acids, each amino acid selected from a different group of amino acids, which is intended to treat hair that has been subjected to extensive wear and tear that can cause weakening and damage. [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]

[0014] [Patent Document 1] European Patent Application Publication No. 2886162 [Patent Document 2] WO 14 / 202655 [Patent Document 3] U.S. Patent Application No. 2015 / 272860 [Patent Document 4] WO 14 / 090513 [Patent Document 5] WO 12 / 031069 [Patent Document 6] U.S. Patent Application No. 2008 / 058400 [Patent Document 7] French Patent Application Publication No. 2853531 [Patent Document 8] WO 00 / 51556 Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0015] There remains a need for more effective treatments for damaged hair that provide repair benefits during daily hair care regimes.

[0016] "Micellar water" is a dispersion of micelles in a solvent, usually water. Micelles are usually formed from low concentrations of weak surfactants.

[0017] The inventors have now found that a mixture of certain amino acids, namely glutamic acid, alanine and proline, can repair damage to chemically damaged hair, as evidenced by an increase in the denaturation temperature of the hair. The inventors have surprisingly found that the mixture of amino acids of the present invention acts to repair hair damage very quickly by increasing the denaturation temperature of the hair. The composition of the present invention provides repair benefits after only one treatment, and can restore the denaturation temperature of hair that has been bleached eight times to that of undamaged hair after only three treatments. The inventors have surprisingly found that delivery of amino acids from a dilute surfactant composition is particularly effective. [Means for solving the problem]

[0018] In a first aspect of the present invention, there is provided a hair treatment composition comprising: (a) a surfactant in a solvent in an amount of 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 2.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition; and (b) A mixture of amino acids, the mixture of amino acids comprising glutamic acid, alanine and proline.

[0019] In a second aspect of the invention, there is provided a method of treating chemically damaged hair comprising applying to the hair a treatment composition as defined in the first aspect of the invention.

[0020] In a third aspect, there is provided the use of a composition as defined in the first aspect for repairing chemically damaged hair. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS

[0021] composition Amino Acid Mixture The amino acid mixture used in the composition of the present invention comprises glutamic acid, alanine and proline, the mixture preferably containing no other amino acids.

[0022] The amount of the amino acid mixture in the composition of the present invention is preferably 0.1% by weight to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.2% by weight to 5% by weight, and most preferably 0.25% by weight to 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0023] The weight ratio of glutamic acid:alanine:proline is preferably 2:1:1 to 1:2:1 to 1:1:2, more preferably 1:1:1.

[0024] Amino acids, including glutamic acid, alanine and proline, suitable for use in the present invention are available from a number of sources, such as, for example, Kusuma Pharma and Ajinomoto Co. Inc.

[0025] Surfactants in Solvents In the present invention, the hair treatment composition comprises a surfactant in a solvent.

[0026] Suitable surfactants for use in the compositions of the present invention are those which are cosmetically acceptable and suitable for topical application to the hair.

[0027] Examples of suitable anionic detergent surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkaryl sulfonates, alkanoyl isethionates, alkyl succinates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, N-alkyl sarcosinates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl ether phosphates and alkyl ether carboxylic acids and their salts, in particular their sodium, magnesium, ammonium and mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts. The alkyl and acyl groups generally contain 8 to 18, preferably 10 to 16, carbon atoms and may be unsaturated. The alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether phosphates and alkyl ether carboxylic acids and their salts may contain 1 to 20 ethylene oxide or propylene oxide units per molecule.

[0028] Typical anionic cleansing surfactants for use in the compositions of the present invention include sodium oleyl succinate, ammonium lauryl sulfosuccinate, sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl ether sulfate, sodium lauryl ether sulfosuccinate, ammonium lauryl sulfate, ammonium lauryl ether sulfate, sodium dodecylbenzene sulfonate, triethanolamine dodecylbenzene sulfonic acid, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium lauryl isethionate, lauryl ether carboxylic acid and sodium N-lauryl sarcosinate.

[0029] Preferred anionic cleansing surfactants are sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl ether sulfate (n) EO (n is 1 to 3), sodium lauryl ether sulfosuccinate (n) EO (n is 1 to 3), ammonium lauryl sulfate, ammonium lauryl ether sulfate (n) EO (n is 1 to 3), sodium cocoyl isethionate and lauryl ether carboxylic acid (n) EO (n is 10 to 20).

[0030] Mixtures of any of the foregoing anionic cleansing surfactants may also be suitable.

[0031] The composition may include other surfactants, such as co-surfactants.

[0032] An example of the co-surfactant is a nonionic surfactant. Representative nonionic surfactants that can be included in the composition of the present invention include aliphatic (C8 to C 18 ) condensation products of primary or secondary linear or branched alcohols or phenols with alkylene oxides, typically the alkylene oxide being ethylene oxide and usually having 6 to 30 ethylene oxide groups.

[0033] Other representative nonionic surfactants include mono- or di-alkyl alkanolamides, such as coco mono- or di-ethanolamide and coco mono-isopropanolamide.

[0034] Further nonionic surfactants that may be included in the compositions of the present invention are the alkyl polyglycosides (APGs). Typically, APGs comprise an alkyl group attached (optionally via a bridging group) to a block of one or more glycosyl groups. Preferred APGs are defined by the following formula:

[0035] RO-(G) n where R is a branched or straight chain alkyl group which may be saturated or unsaturated, and G is a saccharide group.

[0036] R is about C5 to about C 20 Preferably, R is from about C to about C. 12 R denotes the average alkyl chain length of the saccharide. Most preferably, the value of R is about 9.5 to about 10.5. G can be selected from a C5 or C6 monosaccharide residue, preferably a glucoside. G can be selected from the group including glucose, xylose, lactose, fructose, mannose, and derivatives thereof. Preferably, G is glucose.

[0037] The degree of polymerization, n, can range from about 1 to about 10 or more. Preferably, the value of n is from about 1.1 to about 2. Most preferably, the value of n is from about 1.3 to about 1.5.

[0038] Alkyl polyglycosides suitable for use in the present invention are commercially available and include, for example, materials identified as Oramix NS10 from Seppic, Plantaren 1200 and Plantaren 2000 from Henkel.

[0039] Other sugar-derived nonionic surfactants that can be included in the compositions of the present invention include, for example, C 12 ~C 18 C such as N-methylglucamide 10 ~C18 N-alkyl (C1-C6) polyhydroxy fatty acid amides, and C 10 ~C 18 and N-alkoxy polyhydroxy fatty acid amides such as N-(3-methoxypropyl)glucamide of the formula:

[0040] Preferred examples of co-surfactants are amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.

[0041] Examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants include alkylamine oxides, alkylbetaines, alkylamidopropylbetaines, alkylsulfobetaines (sultaines), alkylglycinates, alkylcarboxyglycinates, alkylamphoacetates, alkylamphopropionates, alkylamphoglycinates, alkylamidopropylhydroxysultaines, acyltaurates and acylglutamates, the alkyl and acyl groups having 8 to 19 carbon atoms.Typical amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants for use in the compositions of the present invention include laurylamine oxide, cocodimethylsulfopropylbetaine, laurylbetaine, cocamidopropylbetaine and sodium cocoamphoacetate.

[0042] Particularly preferred amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant is cocamidopropyl betaine. A suitable example is Tegobetaine CK from Evonik. Any mixture of the above-mentioned amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants may also be suitable. A preferred mixture is a mixture of cocamidopropyl betaine and the above-mentioned further amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant. A preferred further amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant is sodium cocoamphoacetate.

[0043] The concentration of the surfactant in the solvent is 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 8% by weight, more preferably 0.2 to 5% by weight, even more preferably 0.5 to 2.5% by weight, and most preferably 1.0 to 2.0% by weight, based on the total composition.

[0044] Suitable solvents include water and lower aliphatic alcohols, especially ethanol. More preferably, the solvent is selected from water and a mixture of ethanol and water, most preferably water.

[0045] Preferred surfactants are selected from sodium lauryl ether sulfate, cocamidopropyl betaine, and mixtures thereof.

[0046] The compositions of the present invention may contain other adjunct ingredients to improve performance and / or consumer acceptance. Preferred adjunct ingredients include fragrances, dyes and pigments, pH adjusters, pearlescent or opacifying agents, viscosity adjusters, and preservatives or antimicrobial agents. Each of these ingredients is present in an amount effective to achieve its purpose.

[0047] Preferably, the composition does not contain other ingredients, particularly conditioning agents and polymers other than the preferred adjunct materials mentioned above, which may be polymeric.

[0048] Preferably, the composition of the present invention has a pH of 3-6.

[0049] method The method of the present invention is a method for treating chemically damaged hair, comprising the step of applying a hair treatment composition to the hair, the hair treatment composition comprising: (a) a surfactant in a solvent in an amount of 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 2.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition; (b) A mixture of amino acids comprising glutamic acid, alanine and proline.

[0050] The chemically damaged hair is preferably selected from hair that has been subjected to a treatment that alters the properties of the hair, preferably a bleaching treatment, a dyeing treatment, a straightening treatment, a straightening treatment, a surfactant treatment and hot water, more preferably a bleaching treatment, a dyeing treatment, a surfactant treatment and hot water, most preferably a bleaching treatment.

[0051] Hair is often exposed to hot water during the washing, treatment and rinsing process. The temperature of hot water is usually 20-45°C. The amount of proteins and amino acids leached from hair increases with the temperature of the water.

[0052] Preferably, the hair has been subjected to multiple damaging treatments, preferably at least 2, more preferably at least 4 damaging treatments, for example 8 bleaching treatments.

[0053] The method comprises the step of applying a composition of the present invention to the hair, preferably by direct application with the hands or by spraying, most preferably by spraying.

[0054] The method preferably involves applying the composition of the present invention to the hair multiple times, providing progressive repair of damage as indicated by an increase in the denaturation temperature of the proteins, which can thus be increased to the same or even higher than the denaturation temperature of undamaged hair.

[0055] In the context of the present invention, undamaged hair refers to hair that has not been subjected to strong physical and / or chemical treatments, such as bleaching, dyeing, perming, heat treatment, and strong and / or long exposure to sunlight, and does not show the characteristics characteristic of damaged hair, such as split ends and / or excessive dryness. Undamaged hair includes hair that has maintained a low level of damage during the natural hair cycle. The causes of low level of damage may include, but are not necessarily limited to, natural processes such as brushing, combing, and limited photodegradation due to sunlight.

[0056] Thus, the method may further comprise the step of repeating the application of the composition to the hair, preferably during subsequent treatment. Preferably, the step of repeating the application of the composition to the hair during subsequent treatment is repeated 1 to 10 times, more preferably 1 to 5 times, and most preferably 1 to 3 times.

[0057] Preferably, the compositions of the present invention are packaged as a spray product.

[0058] use The present invention provides the use of the composition of the present invention to repair chemically damaged hair.

[0059] The use of the present invention results in long-lasting damage repair, preferably an increase in the denaturation temperature of proteins, where long-lasting means that the benefit lasts for multiple treatments, preferably 2-5 treatments, with a hair composition that does not contain the amino acid mixture of the present invention.

[0060] Manufacturing method Each amino acid can be added separately at different stages during the preparation of the composition of the present invention, or can be added at the same stage, for example as a premix.Alternatively, two or three of the amino acids can be premixed before addition.Amino acids can be added, for example, as a water dispersion or in combination with flavor oil.

[0061] The invention is further illustrated by the following non-limiting examples in which all percentages quoted are by weight of total weight unless otherwise stated.

[0062] [Example] [Example 1] Preparation of Composition 1 according to the invention and Composition A as a Comparative Example Compositions 1 and A were prepared by mixing the ingredients set forth in Table 1 below in the amounts indicated under room temperature conditions until completely dispersed.

[0063] The compositions are shown in Table 1 below. [Table 1]

[0064] [Example 2] Measurement of the denaturation temperature of hair by Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC) and the change in denaturation temperature to obtain an indication of the level of damage in hair treated with composition 1 and with water only The proteins within damaged hair usually have a lower denaturation temperature compared to undamaged hair. Repair of the damage can be evidenced by an increase in the denaturation temperature of the proteins within the hair.

[0065] hair Hair that has been bleached twice The hair tresses were bleached according to the following procedure: the hair was bleached twice for 30 minutes with Platine Precision White Compact Lightening Powder (L'Oreal Professionnel Paris, Paris, France) (60g powder mixed with 120g peroxide cream) mixed with 9% peroxide cream, 30'vol' (Excel GS Ltd, UK). The hair was then washed with a 14% SLES solution after the second treatment and before drying.

[0066] Hair Treatment The hair was pre-washed as follows.

[0067] The hair was soaked in water for 30 seconds before being immersed in a 14% SLES solution in water, rubbed for 30 seconds, rinsed for 30 seconds, and then treated with 0.1 ml of non-conditioning shampoo per gram of hair, rubbing for 30 seconds, and rinsed for 30 seconds.

[0068] The hair (which had been bleached twice) was then treated with the compositions detailed in Example 1 above, using 5 tresses for each treatment in the following manner.

[0069] Hair was immersed in compositions 1 and A for 40 minutes, removed and squeezed between the fingers to remove excess.

[0070] The tresses were then left to dry overnight at 20° C. and 50% relative humidity.

[0071] The effect of the treatment was measured by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC).

[0072] A 2 cm tip of each treated hair tress was cut off with scissors. The hair was then chopped into short pieces with clippers. 7–10 mg of chopped hair was added to the aluminum pan of the calorimeter together with 50 μL of water. In all cases, five hair tresses were used per treatment, with one pan prepared per tress. The prepared pans were left overnight before being subjected to DSC measurements at 100–180 °C at a rate of 5 °C / min. [Table 2]

[0073] It can be seen that treatment with the composition according to the present invention results in damage repair, as indicated by an increase in denaturation temperature.

Claims

1. (a) a surfactant in a solvent, in an amount of 0.01 to 10% by weight based on the total composition; and (b) a hair treatment composition comprising a mixture of amino acids, the solvent being water, the mixture of amino acids consisting of glutamic acid, alanine and proline; The amount of the mixture of amino acids is 0.1-10% by weight based on the total hair composition, the pH is in the range of 3-6, and the surfactant is selected from the group consisting of sodium oleyl succinate, ammonium lauryl sulfosuccinate, sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl ether sulfate, sodium lauryl ether sulfosuccinate, ammonium lauryl sulfate, ammonium lauryl ether sulfate, sodium dodecylbenzene sulfonate, triethanolamine dodecylbenzene sulfonic acid, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium lauryl isethionate, lauryl ether carboxylic acid, sodium N-lauryl sarcosinate, coco mono- or di-ethanolamide, coco mono-isopropanolamide, laurylamine oxide, coco dimethyl sulfopropyl betaine, lauryl betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine and sodium cocoamphoacetate. A hair treatment composition for repairing chemically damaged hair.

2. A hair treatment composition according to claim 1, wherein the surfactant is present in an amount of from 0.5 to 2.5% by weight.

3. 3. A method of treating internally chemically damaged hair comprising the step of applying to the hair a treatment composition according to claim 1 or 2.

4. 4. The method of claim 3, wherein the internally chemically damaged hair has been damaged by bleaching, dyeing, straightening, straightening, surfactant treatment, hot water at 20°C to 45°C, and combinations thereof.

5. The method according to any one of claims 3 to 4, further comprising the step of repeating the application of the composition to the hair.

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