Bio-based Pearlescent Wax

Abstract

The present invention relates to bio-based wax-like esters having opacifying and / or pearlescent effects in cosmetic cleansing products, especially in the form of wax dispersions. The present invention further relates to the use of waxes in cosmetics, their preparation and cosmetic products.

Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] The present invention relates in particular to the field of certain waxy esters in the form of wax dispersions that impart haze and / or pearlescence to cosmetic cleansers. The present invention further provides the use of the waxes in cosmetic compositions, their preparation, and the cosmetic compositions themselves. [Background technology]

[0002] Cosmetic cleansers for skin and / or hair, such as hair shampoos, hair conditioners, shower gels, or liquid hand soaps, are typically formulated to be visually appealing. They may be formulated to have a glossy mica effect, commonly referred to as pearlescence, or a non-glossy, milky white coloration, commonly referred to as haze or white coloration.

[0003] Finely divided polymer dispersions, usually based on copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and styrene, are frequently used as opacifiers for cosmetic cleansers. For environmental reasons, it would be desirable to replace these.

[0004] German Patent No. DE 19511572 discloses an opacifier concentrate based on wax bodies and hydrophilic and hydrophobic emulsifiers. According to this document, ethylene glycol distearate (wax bodies) in combination with a sugar surfactant (hydrophilic emulsifier) ​​and a monoglyceride (hydrophobic emulsifier) ​​results in a low-viscosity, cloudy wax dispersion. The ethylene glycol distearate used is a fatty acid ester based on ethylene glycol, prepared by petrochemical means.

[0005] Such petrochemical-based waxes, such as ethylene glycol monostearate (EGMS) and / or ethylene glycol distearate (EGDS), are also known in the prior art as wax bodies in pearlescent agents and pearlescent concentrates. For example, very good pearlescent effects are achieved by a particularly high C18 fatty acid content according to International Patent Application No. WO 98 / 38973, or by specific crystal formation properties according to International Patent Application No. WO 2012 / 177886. Furthermore, there is extensive prior art technology that allows the waxes EDMS and / or EDGS to be converted into wax dispersions using nonionic surfactants, for example according to International Patent Application No. WO 03 / 066796.

[0006] These waxes have to date been limited exclusively to petrochemical-based, i.e., fossil-derived, esters of ethylene glycol. [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]

[0007] [Patent Document 1] DE19511572 issue [Patent Document 2] International Patent Application No. WO98 / 38973 [Patent Document 3] International Patent Application No. WO2012 / 177886 [Patent Document 4] International Patent Application No. WO03 / 066796 [Patent Document 5] EP1830798 issue Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0008] The present invention has, among other things, the object of providing a wax for a wax dispersion that allows for environmentally sustainable human behavior. Therefore, at least the wax should be entirely plant-based, and if possible, the entire wax dispersion should not be based on petrochemical or fossil raw materials.

[0009] At the same time, however, the wax in the form of the wax dispersion should continue to have at least the same qualities as the pearlescent or opacifying agent, and if possible even better qualities. [Means for solving the problem]

[0010] The purpose of this is to 14 This is achieved by waxy esters of ethylene glycol which are suitable in particular as opacifiers and / or pearlescent agents in cosmetic cleansers, having a proportion of biogenic carbon of at least 99%, as defined in accordance with DIN EN 15440 as 13.6 dpm / gC, matrix-independently, with a C analysis of ethylene glycol in the ester with a standard deviation of + / -0 to + / -4. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0011] Preferably, 14 The ethylene glycol in the ester by C analysis has a 100% proportion of biogenic carbon, defined as 13.6 dpm / gC according to DIN EN 15440, independent of the matrix, with a standard deviation of + / -0 to + / -4.

[0012] Quite surprisingly, 14 These waxy esters of ethylene glycol with a biogenic content of C isotopes, in the form of wax dispersions, show improved whiteness compared to previous esters based on petrochemical or fossil ethylene glycol. 14 This was unexpected, as the proportion of the C isotope was extremely low.

[0013] Additionally, the ethylene glycol esters according to the present invention exhibit a lower enthalpy of fusion than the corresponding petrochemical ethylene glycol esters, meaning that significantly less energy is required to melt a defined amount of the wax of the present invention compared to the same mass of petrochemical ethylene glycol esters, allowing for more economical and energy-efficient production of wax dispersions and their processability in cosmetic compositions.

[0014] Isotopes are nuclei that have the same atomic number (= number of protons) but different numbers of neutrons present in their nuclei, and therefore different mass numbers (= number of nucleons, the number of nucleons (protons and neutrons) present in the nucleus). In addition to mass, isotopes also differ in angular momentum (nuclear spin), magnetic moment, and electric quadrupole moment.

[0015] To clearly identify the isotope, the notation (commonly used for nuclides) A zX is used (X = element symbol, A = mass number, Z = atomic number), so the stable isotopes of carbon 12 In 6C, alternative notation is 12 C or C-12 is used.

[0016] The element carbon has a total of two stable isotopes 12 C and 13 It has C. 12 C has a natural abundance of about 98.9% 13 C is 1.1%. In addition to these two stable isotopes, several unstable isotopes also exist. The best known unstable isotopes are 14 C and has a half-life of 5730 years. 14 C is produced in the atmosphere by natural nuclear reactions. 14 It is formed from N. The Earth is constantly exposed to cosmic rays, and these rays create free neutrons when they strike the outermost layer of the Earth's atmosphere. These neutrons then react with nitrogen, which is present in the air in the lower atmosphere at levels of approximately 80%. The following reaction occurs: 14 N+ 1 n→ 14 C+1 p

[0017] The nucleus of a nitrogen atom, which has a mass number of 14 (7 neutrons, 7 protons), absorbs a neutron. 14 C (8 neutrons, 6 protons) is formed from a nitrogen atom by the escape of a proton, so the mass number remains the same. 12 C carbon has 6 neutrons and 6 protons, so 14 Lighter than C.

[0018] Generated in the atmosphere 14 C combines with available oxygen to form carbon dioxide. 14 C enters the biosphere through plant photosynthesis. Living organisms constantly exchange carbon with the atmosphere during metabolism, so the three carbon isotopes 12 C. 13 C and 14 The same distribution ratio of C that exists in the atmosphere is established in the organism. 12 Individual stable 12 C and 13 Approximately 1.2 radioactive per C isotope 14 Contains C isotopes.

[0019] When carbon is removed from this cycle (i.e., becomes fossil carbon), it decays 14 Since the C isotope is not replaced with a new one, this 14 C and 12 The ratio to C varies.

[0020] Fossil fuels, such as crude oil, natural gas, or coal, were formed more than 100 million years ago; in other words, these fuels were originally 14 The C isotope decays and a new 14 Since the C isotope is no longer incorporated, 14 It does not contain any C isotopes. Therefore, hydrocarbons derived from fossil sources are 14 It does not contain any C isotopes.

[0021] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, a stable 12C and 13 for C isotopes 14 The ratio of C isotopes is 6×10 -13 to 1.2 × 10 -12 The reference parameter is the total hydrocarbons present in ethylene glycol.

[0022] of the sample 14 The C content was measured by a Geiger counter (Libby's Geiger counter method) and by a liquid scintillation spectrometer. 14 Counting the remaining C isotopes or using accelerator mass spectrometry 14 It can be determined by counting the C isotope. Accelerator mass spectrometry (AMS) can be used to measure concentrations of 10 ppm to 10 ppm (10 ppb) in very small amounts (milligram range) of sample. -12 From 10 -16 ) range 14 The C isotope can be detected. Current 100% biogenic activity is defined in 2018 as 13.6 dpm / gC according to DIN 15440, independent of the matrix.

[0023] The esters of ethylene glycol according to the present invention are 14It can be prepared by esterification of certain ethylene glycols containing the C isotope. Such ethylene glycols, also known as "bioethylene glycol" or "biomonoethylene glycol," or simply "BioMEG," are available in a variety of ways. The addition of "bio" refers to the origin of the raw material from renewable or plant-based sources. According to one of India Glycols Ind.'s older methods, what is known as "bioethanol" was first produced from sugarcane, otherwise known as sugarcane syrup. Chemically, bioethanol itself is ethyl alcohol. The desired ethylene glycol ("BioMEG") is produced from bioethanol by India Glycols Ind.'s method. Here, ethylene is first prepared by catalytic dehydration (catalytic elimination of water), then ethylene oxide is prepared by oxidation, and finally converted to BioMEG by the addition of water.

[0024] According to a further method, bioethanol may be produced anaerobically from sugarcane juice or molasses or bagasse in the presence of yeasts, in particular fungi from the group of sac fungi (ascomycetes), which are converted to ethene, oxidized to vinegar, and subsequently hydrogenated to BioMEG. BioMEG produced by this method is often also used to produce so-called PlantBottles™, i.e. PET bottles containing 30% BioMEG.

[0025] As a result of rising consumption, two additional plants are expected to come into production in the near future to produce BioMEG. According to a method announced by Braskem SA and Haldo Topsoe A / S, the MOSAIK™ process (MONoSAccharide Industrial Cracker) is combined with the Haldor Topsoe™ process, whereby sugars are first oxidized to smaller molecules, which are then converted to ethylene glycol and propylene glycol in the presence of a heterogeneous non-precious metal catalyst.

[0026] Avantium Chemicals BV plans to produce BioMEG by the Mekong™ process, and its intention is to do so in a one-step process using mono- and disaccharides with hydrogen, eliminating water in the presence of a catalyst.

[0027] In principle, BioMEG can also be produced naturally from other renewable raw materials than sugarcane or sugar beet, for example from starch plants such as cereals, potatoes and corn, or from cellulosic raw materials such as straw and wood.

[0028] Esters of ethylene glycol based on sugar cane or sugar beet, especially in the form of sugar syrup, are preferred.

[0029] Such plant-based ethylene glycols are available, for example, from India Glycols Ltd, see also http: / / www.indiaglycols.com / product_groups / monoethylene_glycol.htm.

[0030] The term "ethylene glycol" or monoethylene glycol is understood to mean ideally 1,2-monoethylenediol of the following general formula (I): HOCH2CH2OH (I)

[0031] However, in reality, chemically produced compounds contain by-products at various concentrations. For the purposes of the present invention, esters based on ethylene glycol having a purity of 99.7% to 99.9%, i.e., 99.7% to 99.9% monoethylene glycol, are preferred. Ethylene glycol containing a maximum amount of water of 0.06% by weight and residual catalyst amounts in the ppm range are particularly preferred.

[0032] The esters according to the invention are preferably produced directly from fatty acids and plant-based ethylene glycol, preferably in the presence of a catalyst, preferably tin oxalate, in an amount of 0.01 to 0.5% by weight based on the mixture. High temperatures, preferably above the melting point of the fatty acids, are advantageous.

[0033] For the purposes of the present invention, the ester is preferably a mixture of mono- and diesters of ethylene glycol, preferably 0.5% to 10% by weight, preferably 3% to 10% by weight, of a monoester of ethylene glycol, and It is a mixture of 90% to 99.5% by weight, preferably 90% to 97% by weight, of diesters of ethylene glycol.

[0034] Ester mixtures of this type can be obtained with a molar ratio of ethylene glycol to carboxylic acid or fatty acid of preferably 0.9:2 to 1.5:2, in particular 1:2 to 1.1:2.

[0035] Examples of suitable carboxylic acids or fatty acids include fatty acids having from 6 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, hydroxystearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, eleostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid, and technical grade mixtures thereof.

[0036] Particularly suitable esters are the mono- and diesters of ethylene glycol with fatty acids having from 6 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular ethylene glycol and 40% to 100% by weight of stearic acid; 0% to 60% by weight of palmitic acid, and 0% to 20% by weight of lauric acid and / or myristic acid It is an ester of a fatty acid mixture consisting of:

[0037] According to one embodiment, the present invention provides a process for producing a soluble cellulose ester comprising: ethylene glycol; 85% to 100% by weight of stearic acid, 0% to 15% by weight of palmitic acid, and 0% to 15% by weight of lauric acid and / or myristic acid For esters with fatty acid mixtures consisting of:

[0038] These esters are suitable as opacifiers and for generating a white color, preferably in the form of a dispersion thereof in the cosmetic composition.

[0039] According to a second embodiment, the present invention provides a method for producing a cellulose acetate ester comprising: 40% to 60% by weight of stearic acid; 40% to 60% by weight of palmitic acid, and 0% to 20% by weight of lauric acid and / or myristic acid For esters with fatty acid mixtures consisting of:

[0040] Within the scope of this second embodiment: 40% to 60% by weight of stearic acid, and 40% to 60% by weight of palmitic acid Preferred are mixtures of these fatty acids consisting of the following weight percentages totaling 100:

[0041] Fatty acid mixtures of this type are commercially available, for example, from KLK Oleo Malaysia under the trade name Edenor L2SM®.

[0042] The esters derived therefrom are suitable for producing pearlescence and are preferably in the form of dispersions in cosmetic compositions.

[0043] For the purposes of the present invention, esters consisting of 3% to 10% by weight of monoesters and 90% to 97% by weight of diesters of ethylene glycol with a fatty acid or a fatty acid mixture consisting of 40% to 60% by weight of stearic acid and 40% to 60% by weight of palmitic acid are preferred.

[0044] Preferred ethylene glycol esters have the following characteristics: an acid number AN according to DIN 53402 in the range from 5.5 to 7, in particular from 6 to 6.5; a hydroxyl number OHN according to DIN 53240 in the range from 5 to 7, in particular from 5.5 to 6.5; Saponification number SN according to DIN 53401 in the range from 185 to 210, in particular from 195 to 200.

[0045] In the context of the present invention, the esters described are waxy. In this application, the term "wax" or "waxy" refers to a compound that is solid at room temperature, is usually kneadable, and melts without decomposition. For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point, measured on a Kofler hot bench according to ISO 6321, is preferably above 40°C, preferably below 75°C, in particular between 45°C and 65°C.

[0046] The present invention further provides a wax dispersion comprising an ester according to at least one of claims 1 to 6, preferably in an amount of 15% to 30% by weight, preferably 20% to 30% by weight, based on the wax dispersion.

[0047] The wax dispersion according to the present invention preferably additionally comprises a surfactant and optionally a preservative.

[0048] According to one embodiment, the wax dispersion comprises a) 15% to 30% by weight of an ester of ethylene glycol as a wax; b) 10% to 30% by weight of a surfactant, preferably an alkylene oxide-free surfactant; c) optionally, 0.01% to 1.0% by weight of a preservative Includes.

[0049] surfactants Surface-active substances (surfactants) may include anionic, nonionic, cationic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, and their proportion in the wax dispersion is typically about 10% to 30% by weight.

[0050] Typical examples of anionic surfactants are soaps, alkyl benzene sulfonates, alkane sulfonates, olefin sulfonates, alkyl ether sulfonates, glycerol ether sulfonates, α-methyl ester sulfonates, sulfofatty acids, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, glycerol ether sulfates, fatty acid ether sulfates, hydroxy mixed ether sulfates, monoglyceride (ether) sulfates, fatty acid amide (ether) sulfates, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinates, mono- and di-alkyl esters, Examples of anionic surfactants include alkyl sulfosuccinamates, sulfotriglycerides, amide soaps, ether carboxylic acids and their salts, alkyl (alkenyl) polyglycol ether citrates and their salts, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, N-acylamino acids such as acyl lactylates, acyl tartrates, acyl glutamates, and acyl aspartates, alkyl oligoglucoside sulfates, protein fatty acid condensates (especially wheat-based plant products), and alkyl (ether) phosphates. When anionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, they may have a conventional homolog distribution, but a narrow homolog distribution is preferred. Typical examples of particularly suitable mild surfactants, i.e., particularly skin-friendly, are fatty alcohol polyglycol ether sulfates, such as lauryl ether sulfate with an average degree of ethoxylation of 1 or 2, such as that available under the trade name Texapon® N70, monoglyceride sulfates, mono- and / or dialkyl sulfosuccinates, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, fatty acid glutamates, α-olefin sulfonates, ether carboxylic acids, fatty acid glucamides, and / or protein fatty acid condensates.

[0051] Typical examples of cationic surfactants include quaternary ammonium compounds, such as dimethyl distearyl ammonium chloride. Ammonium halides, particularly chlorides and bromides, such as alkyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, dialkyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, and trialkyl methyl ammonium chloride, such as cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, stearyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, lauryl dimethyl ammonium chloride, lauryl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride, and tricetyl methyl ammonium chloride, are preferred. In addition, highly biodegradable quaternary ester compounds, such as dialkyl ammonium methosulfate and methyl hydroxyalkyl dialkoyl oxyalkyl ammonium methosulfate, commercially available under the trade name Stepantex®, and corresponding products in the Dehyquart® series, can be used as cationic surfactants. The term "ester quat" is generally understood to mean quaternized fatty acid triethanolamine ester salts. Particularly preferred cationic surfactants include the products known as Dehyquart® L80, Dehyquart® F 75, and Dehyquart® A-CA.

[0052] Suitable amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkyl betaines, alkylamido betaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines. Examples of suitable alkyl betaines are the carboxyalkylation products of secondary amines, especially tertiary amines. Typical examples are hexylmethylamine, hexyldimethylamine, octyldimethylamine, decyldimethylamine, dodecylmethylamine, dodecyldimethylamine, dodecylethylmethylamine, C 12 / 14 -Cocoalkyldimethylamine, Myristyldimethylamine, Cetyldimethylamine, Stearyldimethylamine, Stearylethylmethylamine, Oleyldimethylamine, C 16 / 18Carboxymethylation products of tallow alkyldimethylamines and technical grade mixtures thereof. Also useful are carboxyalkylation products of amidoamines. Typical examples are the reaction products of N,N-dimethylaminoethylamine, N,N-dimethylaminopropylamine, N,N-diethylaminoethylamine, and N,N-diethylaminopropylamine with fatty acids having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, namely caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, eleostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid, and erucic acid, and technical grade mixtures thereof, condensed with sodium chloroacetate. Cocamidopropyl betaine, known as cocamidopropyl betaine, is commercially available under the trade name Dehyton® PK 45, is particularly preferred.

[0053] Furthermore, imidazolinium betaines are also suitable. These substances are also known substances that can be obtained, for example, by cyclocondensation of 1 or 2 moles of fatty acids with polyfunctional amines, for example, aminoethylethanolamine (AEEA) or diethylenetriamine. The corresponding carboxyalkylation products are mixtures of different open-chain betaines. Typical examples are the condensation products of the above-mentioned fatty acids with AEEA, preferably lauric acid or C 12 / 14 -An imidazoline based on coconut fatty acid which is then betained with sodium chloroacetate.

[0054] Typical examples of nonionic surfactants are fatty alcohol (poly)glycol ethers, alkylphenol polyglycol ethers, fatty acid polyglycol esters, fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers, alkoxylated triglycerides, mixed ethers and mixed formals, alkyl (alkenyl) oligoglycosides, partially oxidized alkyl (alkenyl) oligoglycosides and glucuronic acid derivatives, fatty acid N-alkyl glucamides, polyol fatty acid esters, sugar esters, sorbitan esters, polysorbates, and amine oxides. When nonionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, they may have a conventional homolog distribution, but preferably have a narrow homolog distribution. Examples of suitable nonionic surfactants are ethoxylated fatty alcohols, such as fatty alcohols ethoxylated with 4 mol of ethylene oxide or ethoxylated fatty alcohol mixtures with a C12 / C14 ratio, such as the commercially available Dehydol® LS4.

[0055] Among the nonionic surfactants, for particularly mild preparations, those of formula (II) RO-[G] p (II) Preferred are alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides of the formula (wherein R is an alkyl and / or alkenyl group having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G is a sugar group having 5 or 6 carbon atoms, and p is a number from 1 to 10). These can be obtained by related organic chemical preparative methods. Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides can be derived from aldoses or ketoses having 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably from glucose. Preferred alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are therefore alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides. The index p determines the degree of oligomerization (DP), i.e., the distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides, and is a number between 1 and 10. p in a given compound must always be an integer, and here in particular a value of p = 1 to 6 can be assumed, whereas the value p for a specific alkyl oligoglycoside is an analytically determined calculated parameter that is in most cases a decimal number. It is preferred to use alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides having an average degree of oligomerization p of 1.1 to 3.0. From the viewpoint of technical application, alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1.7, in particular between 1.2 and 1.4, are preferred.

[0056] The alkyl or alkenyl group R can be derived from primary alcohols having 4 to 11, preferably 8 to 10, carbon atoms. Typical examples are butanol, caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol and undecyl alcohol, as well as technical grade mixtures thereof, such as those obtained, for example, in the hydrogenation of technical grade fatty acid methyl esters or during the hydrogenation of aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis. C8-C 10 Alkyl oligoglucosides (DP=1 to 3) with a chain length of C8 to C9 are preferred, which are technical grades. 18 It is obtained as a fore-cut fraction in the distillation separation of palm fatty alcohol and contains a small amount of C less than 6% by weight. 12 -Alcohol, and also technical grade C 9 / 11Alkyl oligoglucosides (DP=1 to 3) based on oxo alcohols may also be present. The alkyl or alkenyl group R may also be derived from primary alcohols having 12 to 22, preferably 12 to 14, carbon atoms. Typical examples are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol, and also the technical grade mixtures thereof obtainable as described above. Hardened C with a DP of 1 to 3 12 / 14 Alkyl oligoglucosides based on coconut fatty alcohol are preferred.

[0057] Particularly preferred nonionic surfactants include C in a weight ratio of 1.5:1 to 2.5:1 based on active material. 12 -Alkyl glucoside and C 8~10 -Alkyl glucosides include mixtures of alkyl polyglycosides.

[0058] Particularly preferably, the surfactant present in the wax dispersion is a non-ionic surfactant, and the wax dispersion preferably comprises a) 15% to 30% by weight of an ester of ethylene glycol as a wax; b) 10% to 30% by weight of a non-ionic surfactant, preferably selected from the group consisting of alkyl and / or alkylene polyglucosides, and c) optionally 0.01% to 0.5% by weight of a preservative Includes.

[0059] Excellent white opacity / pearl luster is achieved by the wax dispersion. a) as waxes, 15% to 30% by weight of esters of ethylene glycol, consisting of a1) 3% to 10% by weight of monoesters of ethylene glycol and a2) 90% to 97% by weight of diesters of ethylene glycol, b) 10% to 30% by weight of a nonionic surfactant selected from the group consisting of alkyl and / or alkylene polyglucosides, and c) optionally 0.01% to 0.5% by weight of a preservative is obtained when

[0060] Within this group, a) as wax, 15% to 30% by weight of ethylene glycol esters consisting of 3% to 10% by weight of monoesters and 90% to 97% by weight of diesters of ethylene glycol with a mixture of fatty acids consisting of 40% to 60% by weight of stearic acid and 40% to 60% by weight of palmitic acid, b) 10% to 30% by weight of a nonionic surfactant selected from the group consisting of alkyl and / or alkylene polyglucosides, and c) optionally 0.01% to 0.5% by weight of a preservative a wax dispersion comprising especially, a) as wax, 15% to 30% by weight of ethylene glycol esters consisting of 3% to 10% by weight of monoesters and 90% to 97% by weight of diesters of ethylene glycol with a mixture of fatty acids consisting of 40% to 60% by weight of stearic acid and 40% to 60% by weight of palmitic acid, b) C in a weight ratio of 1.5:1 to 2.5:1 based on the active substance 12 -Alkyl glucoside and C 8~10 - a mixture of 10% to 30% by weight of alkyl polyglucosides, consisting of alkyl glucosides, and c) optionally 0.01% to 0.5% by weight of a preservative A wax dispersion comprising is advantageous.

[0061] Examples of suitable preservatives which may be present are citric acid and benzoic acid and / or their salts, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol, sorbic acid, levulinic acid and arachidonic acid, also the silver complex known under the name Surfacine®, and the classes of additional substances listed in Annex 6 of the Cosmetics Directive, Parts A and B. Citric acid and benzoic acid and / or their salts, such as the Na salts, are particularly suitable.

[0062] The wax dispersions according to the invention always contain water in an amount that adds up to 100% by weight.

[0063] In the context of the present invention, the wax dispersion comprises a minimal amount of petrochemical compounds, preferably between 0 and 10% by weight, based on the wax dispersion, and in particular is free of petrochemical compounds. The preferred active ingredients of the wax dispersion should therefore be based as completely as possible, preferably between 90 and 100% by weight, in particular completely, based on renewable raw materials, based on the wax dispersion.

[0064] The present invention further provides the use of an inventive ester as defined in at least one of claims 1 to 6 as a wax, preferably in the form of an inventive dispersion as defined in any one of claims 7 to 13, for generating haze or pearlescence in an aqueous medium, preferably in a cosmetic composition for cleansing the skin and / or hair.

[0065] The wax according to the invention is preferably used in the form of an inventive wax dispersion according to any one of claims 7 to 13.

[0066] Cosmetic composition The present invention further provides a cosmetic cleanser for skin and hair comprising an ester of ethylene glycol as claimed in claim 1 as a pearlizing or opacifying agent.

[0067] Cosmetic compositions for washing hair should be understood to mean rinse-out compositions. Cosmetic compositions for washing hair should be understood to mean all cosmetic hair treatment compositions that are intended only to wash hair and also to care for, dry, change color or change the structure of hair, and that include a washing step. For example, this is intended to include hair shampoos, hair conditioners, conditioning shampoos, hair rinses, hair treatments, hair masks, hair tonics, permanent wave fixers, hair color shampoos, hair colorants or combinations thereof.

[0068] Cosmetic compositions for cleansing the skin are understood to be compositions that liberate dirt and grease from the skin surface and optionally provide skin care, such as shower gels, shower baths, shower oils, foam baths, liquid hand soaps, intimate wash lotions, facial lotions.

[0069] Depending on the intended use, these preparations may contain a range of further auxiliaries and additives, such as further surfactants, oil bodies, emulsifiers, cosurfactants, (cationic) polymers, thickeners, thickeners, superfatting agents, stabilizers, silicone compounds, fats, waxes, lecithins, phospholipids, UV photoprotective agents, active ingredients of biological origin, antioxidants, antidandruff agents, film-forming agents, swelling agents, tyrosine inhibitors (bleaching agents), hydrotropes, solubilizers, preservatives, fragrance oils, dyes, etc.

[0070] In the cosmetic composition according to the invention, the wax, advantageously in the form of a dispersion, is preferably present in an amount of 0.1 to 5.0, preferably 0.2 to 2.5% by weight, in particular 0.3 to 2.0% by weight, based on the content of esters of ethylene glycol.

[0071] Further ingredients suitable for use according to the invention and for cosmetic compositions according to the invention are presented herein below.

[0072] surfactants In the context of the present invention, the cosmetic composition may contain anionic, nonionic, cationic, and amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants. The choice of surfactant depends on the intended use. Suitable surfactants have already been listed as examples in the context of this application in relation to the surfactants of the wax dispersion according to the present invention. These examples are also suitable as additional surfactants for the cosmetic composition. In addition to the wax dispersion according to the present invention, the cosmetic composition for conditioning hair treatment typically contains an anionic surfactant.

[0073] Typical examples of anionic surfactants are soaps, alkyl benzene sulfonates, alkane sulfonates, olefin sulfonates, alkyl ether sulfonates, glycerol ether sulfonates, α-methyl ester sulfonates, sulfofatty acids, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, glycerol ether sulfates, fatty acid ether sulfates, hydroxy mixed ether sulfates, monoglyceride (ether) sulfates, fatty acid amide (ether) sulfates, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinates, mono- and di-alkyl esters, Examples of anionic surfactants include alkyl sulfosuccinamates, sulfotriglycerides, amide soaps, ether carboxylic acids and their salts, alkyl (alkenyl) polyglycol ether citrates and their salts, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, N-acylamino acids such as acyl lactylates, acyl tartrates, acyl glutamates, and acyl aspartates, alkyl oligoglucoside sulfates, protein fatty acid condensates (especially wheat-based plant products), and alkyl (ether) phosphates. When the anionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, they may have a conventional homolog distribution, but a narrow homolog distribution is preferred. The anionic surfactants used are particularly preferably fatty alcohol (ether sulfates), as already described for the wax dispersions of the present invention, in particular lauryl ether sulfates with 1 or 2 mol of ethylene oxide.

[0074] In addition to the wax dispersion and anionic surfactant according to the present invention, the cosmetic composition for conditioning hair treatment preferably also contains an amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant. Suitable amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkyl betaines, alkylamido betaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines, and sulfobetaines. Examples of suitable alkyl betaines are the carboxyalkylation products of secondary amines, especially tertiary amines. Typical examples are hexylmethylamine, hexyldimethylamine, octyldimethylamine, decyldimethylamine, dodecylmethylamine, dodecyldimethylamine, dodecylethylmethylamine, C 12 / 14 -Cocoalkyldimethylamine, Myristyldimethylamine, Cetyldimethylamine, Stearyldimethylamine, Stearylethylmethylamine, Oleyldimethylamine, C 16 / 18 Carboxymethylation products of tallow alkyldimethylamines and technical grade mixtures thereof. Also useful are carboxyalkylation products of amidoamines. Typical examples are the reaction products of N,N-dimethylaminoethylamine, N,N-dimethylaminopropylamine, N,N-diethylaminoethylamine, and N,N-diethylaminopropylamine with fatty acids having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, namely caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, eleostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid, and erucic acid, condensed with sodium chloroacetate, and also technical grade mixtures thereof. Particularly preferred is the product known as cocamidopropyl betaine, which is commercially available under the trade name Dehyton® PK 45.

[0075] oil body Useful oil bodies are, for example, Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols having 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10, carbon atoms, linear or branched C6-C 22 Straight chain C6-C with fatty alcohols 22 Esters of fatty acids or straight or branched C6-C 22 C6-C branched fatty alcohols 13 Esters of carboxylic acids, for example, myristyl myristate, myristyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, myristyl isostearate, myristyl oleate, myristyl behenate, myristyl erucate, cetyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate, cetyl isostearate, cetyl oleate, cetyl behenate, cetyl erucate, stearyl myristate, stearyl palmitate, stearyl stearate, stearyl isostearate, stearyl oleate, stearyl behenate, stearyl erucate, isostearyl myristate, isostearyl palmitate, isostearyl stearate, isostearyl stearate oleyl, isostearyl isostearate, isostearyl oleate, isostearyl behenate, isostearyl oleate, oleyl myristate, oleyl palmitate, oleyl stearate, oleyl isostearate, oleyl oleate, oleyl behenate, oleyl erucate, behenyl myristate, behenyl palmitate, behenyl stearate, behenyl isostearate, behenyl oleate, behenyl behenate, behenyl erucate, erucyl myristate, erucyl palmitate, erucyl stearate, erucyl isostearate, erucyl oleate, erucyl behenate, and erucyl erucate. Further preferred are linear C6-C6 copolymers with branched alcohols, especially 2-ethylhexanol. 22 Esters of fatty acids, linear or branched C6-C 22 C with fatty alcohols 18 ~C 38 Esters of alkylhydroxycarboxylic acids, in particular dioctyl maleate, esters of linear and / or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols (for example propylene glycol, dimerdiol or trimertriol) and / or Guerbet alcohols, C6-C 10Triglycerides based on fatty acids, C6-C 18 Mono- / di- / triglyceride mixtures based on fatty acids, C6-C with aromatic carboxylic acids, especially benzoic acid 22 Esters of fatty alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols, C2-C with linear or branched alcohols having 1 to 22 carbon atoms or polyols having 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups 12 Esters of dicarboxylic acids, vegetable oils, branched primary alcohols, substituted cyclohexanes, linear and branched C6-C 22 Fatty alcohol carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol® CC), Guerbet carbonates based on fatty alcohols having 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10, carbon atoms, linear and / or branched C6-C 22 Benzoic acid esters with alcohols (e.g., Finsolv® TN), linear or branched, symmetrical or asymmetrical dialkyl ethers having 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, such as dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol® OE), ring-opening products of epoxidized fatty acid esters with polyols, silicone oils (among them cyclic dimethicones called (INCI) cyclomethicones, polymethylsiloxanes called (INCI) dimethicones, aminofunctional silicones called (INCI) amodimethicones, such as trimethylsilyl amodimethicones), and / or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons, such as squalane, squalene, or dialkylcyclohexanes. Suitable silicone oils are described on pages 8 to 14 of EP 1830798, which is expressly incorporated herein by reference.

[0076] emulsifier Suitable emulsifiers are, for example, non-ionogenic surfactants from at least one of the following groups: addition products of 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide onto linear fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, onto fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, onto alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, and onto alkylamines having 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl group; addition products of 1 to 15 mol of ethylene oxide onto castor oil and / or hydrogenated castor oil, addition products of 15 to 60 mol of ethylene oxide onto castor oil and / or hydrogenated castor oil, adducts of 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide onto partial esters of glycerol and / or sorbitan with unsaturated, linear or saturated, branched fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or hydroxycarboxylic acids having 3 to 18 carbon atoms, partial esters of polyglycerol (average degree of self-condensation 2 to 8), polyethylene glycol (molecular weight 400 to 5000), sorbitan, trimethylolpropane, pentaerythritol, sugar alcohols (e.g. sorbitol), alkyl glucosides (e.g. methyl glucoside, butyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside) and polyglucosides (e.g. cellulose) with saturated and / or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or hydroxycarboxylic acids having 3 to 18 carbon atoms, and their adducts with 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; mixed esters of pentaerythritol, fatty acids, citric acid and fatty alcohols and / or mixed esters of fatty acids having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, methyl glucose and polyols, preferably glycerol or polyglycerol, mono-, di- and tri-alkyl phosphates and mono-, di- and / or tri-PEG-alkyl phosphates, and salts thereof; Wool wax alcohol, Polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers and corresponding derivatives, Block copolymers, such as polyethylene glycol-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, Polymeric emulsifiers, such as the Pemulen grades (TR-1, TR-2) from Goodrich, Polyalkylene glycols, and Glycerol carbonate.

[0077] Particularly preferred emulsifiers are C 12 / 18Examples of suitable ethylene oxide additives include addition products of ethylene oxide onto fatty acid mono- and diesters, hydroxystearic acid monoglyceride, hydroxystearic acid diglyceride, isostearic acid monoglyceride, isostearic acid diglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid diglyceride, ricinoleic acid monoglyceride, ricinoleic acid diglyceride, linoleic acid monoglyceride, linoleic acid diglyceride, linolenic acid monoglyceride, linolenic acid diglyceride, erucic acid monoglyceride, erucic acid diglyceride, tartaric acid monoglyceride, tartaric acid diglyceride, citric acid monoglyceride, citric acid diglyceride, malic acid monoglyceride, and malic acid diglyceride, as well as technical grade mixtures thereof. Also suitable are addition products of 1 to 30 mol, preferably 5 to 10 mol, of ethylene oxide onto sorbitan esters. Useful sorbitan esters include sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan sesquiisostearate, sorbitan diisostearate, sorbitan triisostearate, sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan dioleate, sorbitan trioleate, sorbitan monoerucate, sorbitan sesquierucate, sorbitan dierucate, sorbitan trierucate, sorbitan monoricinoleate, sorbitan sesquiricinoleate, sorbitan diricinoleate, sorbitan triricinoleate, monohydro Examples of suitable sorbitan copolymers include sorbitan hydroxystearate, sorbitan sesquihydroxystearate, sorbitan dihydroxystearate, sorbitan trihydroxystearate, sorbitan monotartrate, sorbitan sesquitartrate, sorbitan ditartrate, sorbitan tritartrate, sorbitan monocitrate, sorbitan sesquicitrate, sorbitan dicitrate, sorbitan tricitrate, sorbitan monomaleate, sorbitan sesquimaleate, sorbitan dimaleate, sorbitan trimaleate, and technical grade mixtures thereof.Typical examples of suitable polyglycerol esters are polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (Dehymuls® PGPH), polyglycerol-3 diisostearate (Lameform® TGI), polyglyceryl-4 isostearate (Isolan® GI 34), polyglyceryl-3 oleate, diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate (Isolan® PDI), methyl glucose polyglyceryl-3 distearate (Tego Care® 450), polyglyceryl-3 beeswax (Cera Bellina®), polyglyceryl-4 caprate (polyglycerol caprate T2010 / 90), polyglyceryl-3 cetyl ether (Chimexane® NL), polyglyceryl-3 distearate (Cremophor® GS 32) and polyglyceryl polyricinoleate (Admul® WOL 1403), polyglyceryl dimerate isostearate, and mixtures thereof. Further examples of suitable polyol esters are the mono-, di-, and triesters of trimethylolpropane or pentaerythritol with lauric acid, coconut fatty acid, beef tallow fatty acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, behenic acid, etc., optionally reacted with 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide. Also preferred is trimethylpropane EO / PO trioleate, a mixture obtainable by reacting trimethylolpropane trioleate with ethylene oxide and propylene oxide under alkaline conditions. Here, the ethylene oxide units (EO) and propylene oxide units (PO) are incorporated, at least in part, into the ester groups of trimethylolpropane trioleate. Trimethylpropane EO / PO trioleate is characterized by its statistical average value of the content of EO and PO units per molecule. In one embodiment of the present invention, trimethylpropane EO / PO trioleate having 120 ethylene oxide units (EO) and 10 propylene oxide units (PO) is used.

[0078] Partial glycerides are mono- and / or diesters of glycerol with linear, saturated and / or partially unsaturated fatty acids, such as caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palm oleic acid, tallow fatty acid, stearic acid, behenic acid and technical grade mixtures thereof. Partial glycerides are represented by the formula (III):

[0079] [ka] (In the formula, R 5 CO is an acyl group having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably a straight-chain saturated acyl group having 6 to 22 carbon atoms; R 6 and R 7 is a compound consisting of two groups R 6 and R 7 are each independently hydrogen or R, provided that at least one of 5 CO, where x, y, and z in total are 0 or a number from 1 to 30, and X is an alkali metal or an alkaline earth metal. Typical examples are lauric acid monoglyceride, lauric acid diglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid triglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid triglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid diglyceride, tallow fatty acid monoglyceride, tallow fatty acid diglyceride, behenic acid monoglyceride, behenic acid diglyceride, and technical grade mixtures thereof, which may also contain small amounts of triglycerides resulting from the manufacturing process.

[0080] A preferred group of wax bodies also includes esters of polybasic, optionally hydroxy-substituted carboxylic acids with fatty alcohols having 6 to 22 carbon atoms. Suitable acid components of these esters are, for example, malonic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, adipic acid, sebacic acid, azelaic acid, dodecanedioic acid, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid, and especially succinic acid, as well as malic acid, citric acid, especially tartaric acid, and mixtures thereof. The fatty alcohols contain 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18, especially 16 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl chain. Typical examples are caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, eleostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol, as well as technical grade mixtures thereof. The esters may be present as complete or partial esters, and it is preferred to use monoesters, especially diesters, of carboxylic or hydroxycarboxylic acids. Typical examples are succinic acid mono- and dilauryl esters, succinic acid mono- and dicetearyl esters, succinic acid mono- and distearyl esters, tartrate mono- and dilauryl esters, tartrate mono- and dicocoalkyl esters, tartrate mono- and dicetearyl esters, citric acid mono-, di- and trilauryl esters, citric acid mono-, di- and tricocoalkyl esters and citric acid mono-, di- and tricetearyl esters.

[0081] A third preferred group of wax bodies are those of formula (IV) R 8 OH(IV) (In the formula, R 8Fatty alcohols having alkyl and / or acyl groups (wherein R is a straight-chain, optionally hydroxy-substituted alkyl and / or acyl group having 16 to 48, preferably 18 to 36, carbon atoms may be used. Typical examples of suitable alcohols are cetearyl alcohol, hydroxystearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and oxidation products of long-chain paraffins.

[0082] Fatty ketones suitable as components are represented by the formula (V): R 9 -CO-R 10 (V) (In the formula, R 9 and R 10 are each independently alkyl and / or alkenyl groups having 1 to 22 carbon atoms, provided that they have a total of at least 24, and preferably 32 to 48, carbon atoms. These ketones can be prepared by conventional methods, for example, by pyrolysis of the corresponding fatty acid magnesium salts. The ketones may be symmetrical or asymmetrical in structure, but preferably have two groups R 13 and R 14 are derived from fatty acids that differ by only one carbon atom and have from 16 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0083] Fatty aldehydes suitable as wax bodies are those of formula (VI) R 11 COH (VI) (In the formula, R 11 Preferably, CO corresponds to a linear or branched acyl group having from 24 to 48, preferably from 28 to 32, carbon atoms.

[0084] Similarly, suitable fatty ethers preferably have the formula (VII) R 12 -OR 13 (VII) (In the formula, R 12 and R 13are each independently an alkyl and / or alkenyl group having 1 to 22 carbon atoms, with the proviso that they have a total of at least 24 and preferably 32 to 48 carbon atoms. Fatty ethers of the type mentioned are typically prepared by acid condensation of the corresponding fatty alcohols. Fatty ethers with particularly advantageous pearlescent properties are obtained by condensation of fatty alcohols having 16 to 22 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and / or erucyl alcohol.

[0085] Suitable components further preferably have the formula (VIII) R 14 O-CO-OR 15 (VIII) (In the formula, R 14 and R 15 are each independently an alkyl and / or alkenyl group having 1 to 22 carbon atoms, provided that they have a total of at least 24 and preferably 32 to 48 carbon atoms. These substances are obtained in a manner known per se, for example, by transesterification of dimethyl carbonate or diethyl carbonate with the corresponding fatty alcohols. The fatty carbonates may therefore be symmetrical or asymmetrical in structure. However, R 14 and R 15 It is preferred to use carbonates in which the alkyl radicals are identical and have 16 to 22 carbon atoms. Particular preference is given to the transesterification products of dimethyl carbonate or diethyl carbonate with cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and / or erucyl alcohol, or technical grade mixtures thereof, in the form of mono- and diesters.

[0086] Epoxide ring-opened products are known materials that are conventionally prepared by the acid-catalyzed reaction of terminal or internal olefin epoxides with aliphatic alcohols. The reaction products have the formula (IX):

[0087] [ka] (In the formula, R 16 and R 17 is R 16 and R 17 is hydrogen or an alkyl group having 10 to 20 carbon atoms, provided that the total number of carbon atoms in R is in the range of 10 to 20; 18is preferably an alkyl and / or alkenyl group having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or the group of a polyol having 2 to 15 carbon atoms and 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups. Typical examples are the ring-opening products of α-dodecene epoxide, α-hexadecene epoxide, α-octadecene epoxide, α-eicosene epoxide, α-docosene epoxide, i-dodecene epoxide, i-hexadecene epoxide, i-octadecene epoxide, i-eicosene epoxide and / or i-docosene epoxide with lauryl alcohol, coconut fatty alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and / or erucyl alcohol. It is preferred to use ring-opening products of hexadecene and / or octadecene epoxides with fatty alcohols having 16 to 18 carbon atoms. If polyols are used for ring opening instead of fatty alcohols, these are, for example, the following substances: glycerol; alkylene glycols, such as ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, and polyethylene glycols with an average molecular weight of 100 to 1000 daltons; technical grade oligoglycerol mixtures with a degree of self-condensation of 1.5 to 10, for example technical grade diglycerol mixtures with a diglycerol content of 40 to 50% by weight; methylol compounds, such as, in particular, trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, trimethylolbutane, pentaerythritol, and dipentaerythritol; lower alkyl glucosides, in particular those having 1 to 8 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, such as methyl glucoside and butyl glucoside; sugar alcohols having 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as sorbitol or mannitol, sugars having 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as glucose or sucrose; amino sugars, such as glucamine.

[0088] Thickeners and thickeners Suitable thickeners are primarily fatty alcohols or hydroxy fatty alcohols having 12 to 22, preferably 16 to 18, carbon atoms, as well as partial glycerides, fatty acids, or hydroxy fatty acids. These substances are preferably combined with alkyl oligoglucosides and / or fatty acid N-methylglucamides of the same chain length, and / or polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearates. Suitable thickeners include, for example, aerosil grades (hydrophilic silica), polysaccharides, especially xanthan gum, guar gum, agar, alginates, and tylose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, and hydroxypropylcellulose, as well as higher molecular weight polyethylene glycol fatty acid monoesters and diesters, polyacrylates (e.g., Carbopols® and Pemulen® grades from Goodrich, Synthalens® from Sigma, Keltrol grades from Kelco, Sepigel grades from Seppic, and Salcare grades from Allied Colloids), polyacrylamides, polymers, polyvinyl alcohol, and polyvinylpyrrolidone. Bentonites such as Bentone® Gel VS-5PC (Rheox), a mixture of cyclopentasiloxane, disteardimonium hectorite, and propylene carbonate, have also proven particularly effective. Surfactants such as ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides, esters of fatty acids with polyols, such as pentaerythritol or trimethylolpropane, fatty alcohol ethoxylates with narrow homolog distributions, or alkyl oligoglucosides, and electrolytes such as sodium chloride and ammonium chloride are also suitable.

[0089] Superfatting agent Examples of superfatting agents that can be used include substances such as lanolin and lecithin, polyethoxylated or acylated derivatives of lanolin and lecithin, polyol fatty acid esters, monoglycerides, and fatty acid alkanolamides, the latter of which also act as foam stabilizers.

[0090] stabilizers The stabilizer used may be a metal salt of a fatty acid, for example, magnesium stearate or ricinoleate, aluminum stearate or ricinoleate, and / or zinc stearate or ricinoleate.

[0091] (cationic) polymers In addition to the wax dispersion according to the present invention, an anionic surfactant, and optionally an amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant, the cosmetic composition for conditioning hair treatment preferably also comprises a cationic polymer. Suitable cationic polymers are preferably from the group consisting of cationically modified cellulose derivatives, PQ 10, PQ 67, cationically modified guar derivatives such as Dehyquart® Guar N, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, cationic homopolymers or copolymers based on acrylamide, cationic homopolymers or copolymers based on vinylpyrrolidone, cationic homopolymers or copolymers based on quaternized vinylimidazole, and cationic homopolymers or copolymers based on methacrylate.

[0092] Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, quaternized hydroxyethylcellulose, cationic starch, copolymers of diallylammonium salts and acrylamide, also available under the name Polymer JR 400® from Amerchol, quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / vinylimidazole polymers, for example Luviquat® (BASF), condensation products of polyglycols and amines, quaternized protein hydrolysates, polypeptides and amino acids, for example lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen (Lamequat® L / Grunau), quaternized wheat polypeptides, polyethyleneimine, cationic silicone polymers, for example amidomethicone, copolymers of adipic acid and dimethylaminohydroxypropyldiethylenetriamine (Cartaretine® / Sandoz), copolymers of acrylic acid and dimethyldiallylammonium chloride (Merquat® 550 / Chemviron), polyaminopolyamides, for example FR-A No. 2,252,840 and crosslinked water-soluble polymers thereof, cationic chitin derivatives such as quaternized chitosan, optionally in microcrystalline dispersion, condensation products of dihaloalkyls, such as dibromobutane, with bisdialkylamines, such as bisdimethylamino-1,3-propane, cationic guar gums, such as Jaguar® CBS, Jaguar® C-17, and Jaguar® C-16 from Celanese, and quaternized ammonium salt polymers, such as Mirapol® A-15, Mirapol® AD-1, and Mirapol® AZ-1 from Miranol. Particularly suitable cationic polymers are polyquaternium-68, available as Luviquat® Supreme AT 1, or polyquaternium-11, available as Luviquat® PQ 11 AT 1.

[0093] Useful anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers are, for example, vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate / butyl maleate / isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers and esters thereof, uncrosslinked polyacrylic acid and polyacrylic acid crosslinked with polyols, acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride / acrylate copolymers, octylacrylamide / methyl methacrylate / tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate / 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate copolymers, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinyl caprolactam terpolymers and optionally derivatized cellulose ethers and silicones.

[0094] Silicone Compounds Suitable silicone compounds are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, cyclic silicones, as well as amino-, fatty acid-, alcohol-, polyether-, epoxy-, fluorine-, glycoside-, and / or alkyl-modified silicone compounds, which may be liquid or otherwise in resin form at room temperature.Simethicone is also suitable, which is a mixture of dimethicone with an average chain length of 200 to 300 dimethylsiloxane units and hydrogenated silicate.

[0095] UV light protection filter UV photoprotective agents are understood to mean, for example, organic substances (photoprotective filters) that are liquid or crystalline at room temperature and have the ability to absorb ultraviolet radiation and re-emit the absorbed energy in the form of longer-wave radiation, for example heat. UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Examples of oil-soluble substances are: 3-benzylidene camphor or 3-benzylidene norcamphor and their derivatives, such as the 3-(4-methylbenzylidene) camphor described above, 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-(dimethylamino)benzoate, 2-octyl 4-(dimethylamino)benzoate and amyl 4-(dimethylamino)benzoate, esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, propyl 4-methoxycinnamate, isoamyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamate (octocrylene); Esters of salicylic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate, Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably di-2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzomalonate, triazine derivatives, such as 2,4,6-trianilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)-1,3,5-triazine and octyl triazone or dioctyl butamido triazone (Uvasorb® HEB), propane-1,3-diones, such as 1-(4-tert-butylphenyl)-3-(4'-methoxyphenyl)propane-1,3-dione, Ketotricyclo(5.2.1.0)decane derivatives is.

[0096] Suitable water-soluble substances are: 2-Phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts; sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts, Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as 4-(2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl)benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornylidene)sulfonic acid and their salts is.

[0097] Suitable typical UVA filters are, in particular, derivatives of benzoylmethane, such as 1-(4'-tert-butylphenyl)-3-(4'-methoxyphenyl)propane-1,3-dione, 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol® 1789), 1-phenyl-3-(4'-isopropylphenyl)propane-1,3-dione, and enamine compounds. UVA and UVB filters can, of course, also be used in mixtures. A particularly preferred combination consists of a derivative of benzoylmethane, such as 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol® 1789), and 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamate (octocrylene), in combination with an ester of cinnamic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate and / or propyl 4-methoxycinnamate and / or isoamyl 4-methoxycinnamate. This type of combination is advantageous in combination with water-soluble filters such as 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts.

[0098] In addition to the soluble substances mentioned above, insoluble light-protecting pigments, especially finely dispersed metal oxides and salts, are also useful for this purpose. Examples of suitable metal oxides include zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, as well as iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum, and cerium oxides, and mixtures thereof. The salts used may be silicates (talc), barium sulfate, or zinc stearate. These oxides and salts are used in the form of pigments in skin care and skin protection emulsions and decorative cosmetics. These particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm, and especially between 15 and 30 nm. They may have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use particles with an ellipsoidal shape or a shape that deviates from the spherical geometry in some other way. The pigments may also be present in a surface-treated form, i.e., a hydrophilized or hydrophobized form. Typical examples are coated titanium dioxide, such as titanium dioxide T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex® T2000 (Merck). Suitable hydrophobic coating agents are in particular silicones, in particular trialkoxyoctylsilanes or simethicones. In sunscreen compositions, it is preferred to use micropigments or nanopigments. It is preferred to use micronized zinc oxide.

[0099] Biogenic active ingredients and antioxidants Active ingredients of biological origin are understood to mean, for example, tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, (deoxy)ribonucleic acid and its fragmentation products, β-glucan, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acids, amino acids, ceramides, pseudoceramides, essential oils, plant extracts, such as, for example, Prunus extract, bambara nut extract or vitamin complexes.

[0100] Antioxidants interrupt the photochemical reaction chain that occurs when UV rays penetrate the skin. Typical examples include amino acids (e.g., glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g., urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides (e.g., D,L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine, and their derivatives (e.g., anserine), etc., carotenoids, carotenes (e.g., α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and its derivatives, lipoic acid and its derivatives (e.g., dihydrolipoic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil, and other thiol-peptides. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine, and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl, and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl, and glyceryl esters), and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and its derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides, and salts), and those with very low tolerated doses (e.g., pm ol to μmol / kg) of sulfoximine compounds (e.g., buthionine sulfoximine, homocysteine ​​sulfoximine, buthionine sulfone, penta-, hexa-, and heptathionine sulfoximine), as well as (metal) chelating agents (e.g., α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g., citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, gallic acid, bile extract, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g., γ- Linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and its derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g., ascorbyl palmitate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherol and derivatives (e.g., vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate), and coniferyl benzoate of benzoin resin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, α-glycosylrutin, ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol, carnosine, butylhydroxytoluene,Butylhydroxyanisole, nordihydroguaiac resin acid, nordihydroguaiaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, superoxide dismutase, zinc and its derivatives (e.g., ZnO, ZnSO), selenium and its derivatives (e.g., selenomethionine), stilbene and its derivatives (e.g., stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide), and derivatives (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides, and lipids) of specific active ingredients thereof are preferred according to the present invention.

[0101] Film-forming agents Customary film-forming agents are, for example, chitosan, microcrystalline chitosan, quaternized chitosan, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers, acrylic acid-based polymers, quaternary cellulose derivatives, collagen, hyaluronic acid and its salts and similar compounds.

[0102] Anti-dandruff active ingredient Useful anti-dandruff active ingredients include piroctone olamine (1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6-(2,4,4-trimethylpentyl)-2-(1H)-pyridinone monoethanolamine salt), Baypival® (Climbazole), ketoconazole®, (4-acetyl-1-{-4-[2-(2,4-dichlorophenyl)r-2-(1H-imidazol-1-ylmethyl)-1,3-dioxiran-c-4-ylmethoxyphenyl}piperazine, ketoconazole, Included are elubiol, selenium disulfide, colloidal sulfur, sulfur polyethylene glycol sorbitan monooleate, sulfur ricinol polyethoxylate, sulfur tar distillate, salicylic acid (and / or in combination with hexachlorophene), undecylenic acid monoethanolamide sulfosuccinate sodium salt, Lamepon® UD (protein-undecylenic acid condensate), zinc pyrithione, aluminum pyrithione, and magnesium pyrithione / dipyrithione-magnesium sulfate.

[0103] Further Additives Swelling agents for the aqueous phase that can be used include montmorillonite, clay mineral materials, Pemulen, and alkyl-modified Carbopol grades (Goodrich). Further suitable polymers and swelling agents can be found in the review by R. Lochhead in Cosm.Toil. 108, 95 (1993). Suitable insect repellents are N,N-diethyl-m-toluamide, 1,2-pentanediol, or ethyl butylacetylaminopropionate, and a suitable self-tanning agent is dihydroxyacetone. Suitable tyrosine inhibitors that prevent the formation of melanin and are used in depigmenting agents include, for example, arbutin, ferulic acid, kojic acid, coumaric acid, and ascorbic acid (vitamin C).

[0104] Protein hydrolysate If desired, further protein hydrolysates known from the prior art may be used, for example those based on keratin, such as the commercially available Nutrilan® Keratin W PP, or those based on wheat, such as Gluadin® WLM Benz, Gluadin® WK or Gluadin® WP. It is also possible to add small amounts of free amino acids, such as lysine or arginine.

[0105] Hydrotrope The fluidity can be further improved by using hydrotropes such as ethanol, isopropyl alcohol or polyols. The suitable polyols here preferably have 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups. The polyols may further contain other functional groups, in particular amino groups, or may be modified with nitrogen. Typical examples are: glycerol, alkylene glycols, such as ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, and polyethylene glycols having an average molecular weight of from 100 to 1000 daltons; technical grade oligoglycerol mixtures with a degree of self-condensation of from 1.5 to 10, for example technical grade diglycerol mixtures with a diglycerol content of from 40% to 50% by weight, Methylol compounds, such as, in particular, trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, trimethylolbutane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol, lower alkyl glucosides, especially those having 1 to 8 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, such as methyl glucoside and butyl glucoside; sugar alcohols having 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as sorbitol or mannitol, sugars having 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as glucose or sucrose, amino sugars, e.g. glucamine, Dialcoholamines, such as diethanolamine or 2-amino-1,3-propanediol is.

[0106] preservative Examples of suitable preservatives are benzoates, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol, sorbic acid, levulinic acid and arachidonic acid, also the silver complexes known under the name Surfacine®, and the classes of additional substances listed in Annex 6, parts A and B of the Cosmetics Directive.

[0107] Perfume oils and aromas Perfume oils can be mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts from flowers (lily, lavender, rose, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (anise, coriander, caraway, juniper), peels (bergamot, lemon, orange), roots (nutmeg, angelica, celery, cardamom, costus, iris, calamus), wood (pine, sandalwood, guaiac, cedar, rosewood), herbs and grasses (tarragon, lemongrass, sage, thyme), needles and branches (spruce, fir, pine, dwarf pine), resins and balsams (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opopanax). Animal-derived materials, such as civet and castoreum, are also suitable. Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Examples of fragrance compounds of the ester type are benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbinyl acetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, ethylmethylphenyl glycinate, allylcyclohexyl propionate, styrallyl propionate and benzyl salicylate. Ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether; aldehydes include, for example, linear alkanals having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamen aldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial, and bourgeonal; ketones include, for example, ionones, α-isomethylionone, and methyl cedryl ketone; alcohols include anethole, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol, and terpineol; and hydrocarbons include primarily terpenes and balsams. However, it is preferred to use mixtures of different aromatic substances that together produce a pleasant scent note.Relatively low-volatility essential oils that are often used as aroma components are also suitable as perfume oils, such as sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, melissa oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden flower oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, olibanum oil, galbanum oil, labdanum oil, and lavandin oil. Bergamot oil, dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, α-hexylcinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzyl acetone, cyclamen aldehyde, linalool, Voisinbren forte, ambroxan, indole, hedione, sandelice, lemon oil, mandarin oil, orange oil, allyl amyl glycolate, cyclovertal, lavandin oil, clary sage oil, β-damascone, geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, vertfix curl, Iso E Super, Fixolide NP, evernyl, iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, romirat, irotyl and floramat are preferably used alone or in admixture. Examples of suitable aromas include peppermint oil, spearmint oil, anise oil, star anise oil, caraway oil, eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, lemon oil, oil of wintergreen, clove oil, menthol, and the like.

[0108] dye Usable dyes are suitable substances approved for cosmetic purposes, such as those listed in the publication "Kosmetische Farbemittel" (Colorings for Cosmetics) by the Farbstoffkommission der Deutschen Forschungsgemeinschaft (Dye Commission of the German Research Foundation), Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, pp. 81-106. Examples include cochineal red A (CI 16255), patent blue V (CI 42051), indigotin (CI 73015), chlorophyllin (CI 75810), quinoline yellow (CI 47005), titanium dioxide (CI 77891), indanthrene blue RS (CI 69800), and madder lake (CI 58000). Luminol may also be present as a luminescent dye. These dyes are typically used in concentrations of 0.001% to 0.1% by weight, based on the total mixture.

[0109] pigment In particular, in the form of these wax dispersions, the esters according to the invention are capable of imparting a pronounced white haze to the cosmetic composition, and pigments can be added if desired to further enhance the pearlescence.

[0110] The term pigments encompasses any type of particle, white or colored, organic or inorganic, that is insoluble in the preparation and serves the purpose of imparting increased gloss to the preparation. Luster pigments, including metallic effect pigments and pearlescent pigments according to DIN 55944: 2003-11, are advantageous.

[0111] Some specific effect pigments, such as graphite platelets, iron oxide platelets, and micronized titanium dioxide, cannot be assigned to these two groups; micronized titanium dioxide does not provide a glossy effect, but rather an angle-dependent light scattering effect. Luster pigments according to DIN 55943: 2001-10 are primarily effect pigment platelets. Aligned in parallel, luster pigments exhibit a characteristic luster. The visual effects of luster pigments are based on the directional reflection of metal particles (metallic effect pigments), transparent particles with a high refractive index (pearlescent pigments), or interference phenomena (interference pigments) (DIN 55944: 2003-11).

[0112] Examples of commercially available effect pigments that are preferred for the present invention are Timiron® and #174 from Merck, Iriodin® and #174 from Merck (pearlescent and colored luster pigments for decorative industrial use), Xirallic® and #174 from Merck (dark crystalline effect pigments).

[0113] It is also possible to use pigments in the form of commercially available oil or aqueous pre-dispersions.

[0114] Cosmetic hair treatment composition In a particular embodiment of the present invention, a cosmetic composition for conditioning hair treatment is claimed, comprising the wax dispersion of the present invention, an anionic surfactant, and optionally a cationic polymer, and optionally an amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactant, and an emulsifier or further conventional ingredients, and also water made up to 100% by weight.

[0115] Based on the content of active substances, preferably the following are present in the conditioning hair treatment composition: 0.1% to 5.0% by weight, preferably 0.2% to 2.5% by weight, of the wax dispersion of the present invention, 1.0% to 15%, preferably 7.5% to 12%, by weight of an anionic surfactant; 0.0% to 1% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 0.4% by weight, of at least one cationically modified polymer, and / or 0.0% to 15% by weight, preferably 0.1% to 5% by weight, of an amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactant, From 0.0% to 10% by weight of emulsifier and optionally further conventional ingredients may be present, with water making up to 100% by weight.

[0116] The wax dispersion, the anionic surfactant, and optionally the cationic polymer and amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactant, and optionally further conventional ingredients have already been described above in this application.

[0117] method The present invention further provides a method for producing the cosmetic cleanser according to the invention, wherein the waxy ester of ethylene glycol according to the invention is added, preferably in the form of a wax dispersion, to one or more initially charged ingredients of the cosmetic composition at room temperature, preferably between 15 and 30°C, and stirred, in particular using a commercially available stirrer, which is known as the cold process.

[0118] According to a further process variant, the cosmetic composition can be prepared by heating the waxy ester of ethylene glycol of the present invention to a temperature above its melting point and stirring with at least one of the remaining components of the cosmetic composition. The waxy ester of ethylene glycol is preferably heated to a temperature above the melting point of the ester of the present invention together with additional components of the cosmetic composition that are solid at room temperature, stirring, and then adding and stirring the remaining components of the cosmetic composition. [Example]

[0119] A) Preparation Example of Ethylene Glycol Distearate of the Present Invention Example A1 of the present invention 2172.5 g (=35 mol) of plant-based ethylene glycol (index: at least 99.8 wt.% monoethylene glycol and at most 0.06 wt.% diethylene glycol; at most 0.06 wt.% water; MEG commercially available from India Glycols Bio) and 19913.6 g (=70 mol) of technical grade stearic acid (composition C 16 Fatty acid:C 18 A mixture of fatty acid=1:1 (commercially available as Palmera B1804® from KLK Oleo) and 11 g of stannous oxalate (esterification catalyst, commercially available as Fascat® 2001 from PMC Organometallix, Inc.) was heated to 160° C. Approximately 80% of the theoretical amount of water was distilled off within 16 hours.

[0120] The mixture was then heated to 240°C and residual amounts of water were removed within 26 hours.

[0121] For work-up, the product was stirred with NaOH solution (184.6 g dissolved in 500 g deionized water) at 80° C. for 30 min, filtered and dried.

[0122] This gave 14998 g of a white solid product having the following characteristics: Acid number according to DIN 53402 AN=1.6 Hydroxyl number according to DIN 53240 OHN=4.7 Saponification number according to DIN 53401 SN=196.2 Melting point by Kofler hot bench: 63.2°C

[0123] Comparative Example: Ethylene glycol distearate A2 (not according to the invention) Ethylene glycol distearate prepared from petrochemical ethylene glycol (index: at least 99.9% by weight of monoethylene glycol and at most 0.05% by weight of diethylene glycol; at most 0.05% by weight of water) and having the following characteristics was used as a comparison: Acid number according to DIN 53402 AN<1 Hydroxyl number according to DIN 53240 OHN<15 Melting point by Kofler hot bench: 63.2°C For example, it is commercially available as Cutina® AGS from BASF Personal Care & Nutrition GmbH.

[0124] The current 100% biogenic activity, i.e. 14 The biogenic fraction (%) of C carbon is defined as 13.6 dpm / gC according to DIN 2018, independent of the matrix.

[0125] The ethylene glycol distearate of the present invention prepared according to Example 1 and the petrochemical ethylene glycol distearate prepared according to the comparative example had the following properties: 14 C content (8 measurements).

[0126] [Table 1]

[0127] B) Preparation of wax dispersion / pearlescent concentrate The following pearlescent concentrate / wax dispersions were prepared (Table 1). The amounts are given in % by weight of active substance AS, based on the wax dispersion / pearlescent concentrate.

[0128] To prepare the wax dispersion, 2 / 3 of the total amount of water was initially charged and heated to 85°C. Ethylene glycol distearate (inventive or comparative) and alkyl polyglucoside were continuously stirred in the hot phase. At 64°C, the final 1 / 3 of the total amount of water was added and the mixture was stirred. Starting at 40°C, sodium benzoate, sodium sulfate, and citric acid were added and stirred.

[0129] [Table 2]

[0130] Viscosity was determined by the Brookfield method (23°C, spindle 5, 10 rpm, mPas). Whiteness / pearlescence was visually confirmed with the naked eye by comparing them with each other.

[0131] As can be seen from Table 1, the wax dispersion with plant-based ethylene glycol difatty acid ester A1 of the present invention exhibits better whiteness / pearl luster and lower viscosity compared to the wax dispersion with petrochemical-based ethylene glycol distearate A2.

[0132] C) Preparation of further wax dispersions / pearlescent concentrates Further pearlescent concentrates / wax dispersions were prepared according to Table 2. The amounts are given in % by weight of active substance AS, based on the wax dispersion / pearlescent concentrate.

[0133] To prepare the wax dispersion, water, ethylene glycol distearate (of the present invention), and the surfactants laureth-4 (a C12 fatty alcohol ethoxylated with an average of 4 moles of ethylene oxide), cocamidopropyl betaine, and sodium laureth sulfate (a C12 ether sulfate Na salt ethoxylated with an average of 1 mole of ethylene oxide), and sodium benzoate were heated to 85°C while stirring at approximately 50 rpm. The dispersion was allowed to cool to 25°C while stirring at approximately 50 rpm. Citric acid was then added, and the mixture was stirred.

[0134] [Table 3]

[0135] D) Preparation of hair shampoo with wax dispersion B1) To prepare the hair shampoo, water was first added at room temperature according to Table 3, and guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride (thickener) was dispersed by sprinkling. The surfactants laureth-4 (a C12 fatty alcohol ethoxylated with an average of 4 mol of ethylene oxide) and cocamidopropyl betaine were dissolved therein. The wax dispersion of Example B1) and further ingredients were then added, and the mixture was stirred. The amounts in Table 3 are in weight percent, with the weight percent of the wax dispersion relating to the wax dispersion B1) and the weight percent of the surfactant relating to the active substance content AS.

[0136] [Table 4]

Claims

1. Waxy esters of ethylene glycol as opacifiers and / or pearlescent agents in cosmetic cleansers, 14 The ethylene glycol in the ester by C analysis has a biogenic carbon content of at least 99% as defined at 13.6 dpm / gC according to DIN EN 15440, independent of the matrix, with a standard deviation of + / -0 to + / -4; Waxy esters of ethylene glycol, including mixtures of monoesters and diesters of ethylene glycol.

2. 14 2. The waxy ester of ethylene glycol according to claim 1, wherein the ethylene glycol in the ester by C analysis has a proportion of 100% biogenic carbon as defined at 13.6 dpm / gC according to DIN EN 15440, independent of the matrix, with a standard deviation of + / - 0 to + / - 4.

3. 3. A waxy ester of ethylene glycol according to claim 1 or 2, which is a mono- or diester of ethylene glycol with a fatty acid having from 6 to 22 carbon atoms.

4. Ethylene glycol, 40% to 100% by weight of stearic acid; 0% to 60% by weight of palmitic acid, and 0% to 20% by weight of lauric acid and / or myristic acid 4. Waxy esters of ethylene glycol according to any one of claims 1 to 3, including mono- and diesters with a fatty acid mixture consisting of:

5. 5. A waxy ester of ethylene glycol according to any one of claims 1 to 4, consisting of 3% to 10% by weight of monoesters and 90% to 97% by weight of diesters of ethylene glycol with a mixture of fatty acids consisting of 40% to 60% by weight of stearic acid and 40% to 60% by weight of palmitic acid.

6. 6. A wax dispersion comprising a waxy ester of ethylene glycol according to claim 1 in an amount of 15% to 30% by weight based on the wax dispersion.

7. a) 15% to 30% by weight of an ester of ethylene glycol as a wax, and b) 10% to 30% by weight of a surfactant 7. The wax dispersion of claim 6, comprising:

8. a) 15% to 30% by weight of an ester of ethylene glycol as a wax, and b) 10% to 30% by weight of a nonionic surfactant 8. The wax dispersion according to claim 6 or 7, comprising:

9. a) as waxes, 15% to 30% by weight of esters of ethylene glycol consisting of a1) 3% to 10% by weight of monoesters of ethylene glycol and a2) 90% to 97% by weight of diesters of ethylene glycol, and b) 10% to 30% by weight of a nonionic surfactant selected from the group consisting of alkyl and / or alkylene polyglucosides 9. The wax dispersion according to any one of claims 6 to 8, comprising:

10. a) as wax, 15% to 30% by weight of ethylene glycol esters consisting of 3% to 10% by weight of monoesters and 90% to 97% by weight of diesters of ethylene glycol with a mixture of fatty acids consisting of 40% to 60% by weight of stearic acid and 40% to 60% by weight of palmitic acid, and b) 10% to 30% by weight of a nonionic surfactant selected from the group consisting of alkyl and / or alkylene polyglucosides 10. The wax dispersion according to any one of claims 6 to 9, comprising:

11. 11. A wax dispersion according to any one of claims 6 to 10, which is completely free of petrochemical compounds.

12. 12. The wax dispersion according to any one of claims 6 to 11, wherein the ester of ethylene glycol has a melting point above 40°C.

13. 6. Use of an ester according to claim 1 as a wax for generating haze or pearlescence.

14. 14. Use according to claim 13, wherein the wax is used in the form of a wax dispersion according to any one of claims 6 to 12.

15. 10. A cosmetic cleanser for skin and hair comprising the ester of ethylene glycol according to claim 1 as a pearlizing or opacifying agent.

16. 16. A method for producing a cosmetic cleanser according to claim 15, wherein the ester of ethylene glycol according to claim 1, in the form of a dispersion according to at least one of claims 6 to 12, is added to one or more initially charged components of the cosmetic composition at room temperature while stirring.

17. 16. A method for producing the cosmetic cleanser of claim 15, wherein the ester of ethylene glycol of claim 1 is heated to a temperature above its melting point and stirred with at least one of the remaining ingredients of the cosmetic composition.

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