Composition for caring for keratinous materials

Abstract

A clear, anhydrous composition for caring for keratinous materials, comprising: a) at least one acetylated hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof; and b) propylene glycol. A non-therapeutic method for caring for keratinous materials includes applying the composition to the keratinous materials.

Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] The present invention relates to compositions for caring for keratinous materials and their uses. In particular, the present invention relates to clear, anhydrous compositions for caring for keratinous materials. The present invention also relates to non-therapeutic methods for caring for keratinous materials. [Background technology]

[0002] Keratinous materials, such as hair and skin, are generally damaged and weakened by the effects of the external environment, such as light and weather.

[0003] There are many products available for conditioning hair or caring for the skin.

[0004] WO2012089797A2 discloses a composition for moisturizing keratinous materials, comprising (a) at least one alkoxysilane having at least one solubilizing functional group and at least one amino substituent, (b) at least one glycosaminoglycan selected from hyaluronic acid, its derivatives, and salts thereof, and (c) water.

[0005] WO2003105798A1 discloses a cosmetic emulsion for care and / or makeup, comprising an aqueous phase and a liquid fatty phase, one dispersed in the other, the liquid fatty phase comprising at least one silicone oil and having a weight average molecular weight in the range of 500 to 500,000, and containing, in its moiety chain or in the form of a graft, at least one polyorganosiloxane group consisting of 1 to 1,000 organosiloxane units, and a hydroxy group selected from the group consisting of esters, amides, sulfonamides, carbamates, thiocarbamates, ureas, thioureas, oxamides, guaiamates, guar gums ... Disclosed is a cosmetic emulsion structured by at least one gelling polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) containing at least one moiety comprising at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions selected from among an iodino group, a biguanidino group, and combinations thereof, with the proviso that at least one of the groups is other than an ester group, wherein the polymer is solid at room temperature and soluble in a liquid fatty phase at temperatures between 25°C and 250°C, and the aqueous phase, the liquid fatty phase, and the gelling polymer form a physiologically acceptable medium.

[0006] In cosmetic development, it is highly desirable to provide a product that has a pleasing appearance, for example a clear appearance.

[0007] It is also desirable that the product be stable over time.

[0008] Hyaluronic acid is known for its film-forming and moisture-retaining properties. Hyaluronic acid is the predominant glycosaminoglycan found in the skin. This compound and its salts have traditionally been used in cosmetics due to their moisture-absorbing, viscoelastic, and rheological properties, and can advantageously moisturize and plump the skin, reduce wrinkles and lines caused by dehydration, and have anti-aging effects. The hyaluronic acid most commonly used for the above-mentioned applications is a polymer with a molecular weight between 500 kDa and 2,000 kDa. In fact, it has been demonstrated that the provision of these high-molecular-weight hyaluronic acids provides effective moisturizing effects to the skin due to the moisture-absorbing properties characteristic of these molecules.

[0009] However, there are no commercially available products containing hyaluronic acid or its derivatives in an anhydrous system that are clear and stable over time. [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]

[0010] [Patent Document 1] WO2012089797A2 [Patent Document 2] WO2003105798A1 Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0011] The object of the present invention is therefore to develop a composition containing hyaluronic acid or its derivatives in an anhydrous system that is clear and stable over time. [Means for solving the problem]

[0012] Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention provides a clear, anhydrous composition for caring for keratinous materials, comprising: a) at least one acetylated hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof, and b) Propylene glycol The present invention provides a composition comprising:

[0013] According to a second aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic method for caring for keratinous materials, comprising the step of applying to the keratinous materials a composition as described above. [Effects of the Invention]

[0014] The inventors have found that the composition has a clear appearance, is stable over time, and is effective in caring for keratinous materials.

[0015] Other objects, features, aspects and advantages of the present invention will become even more apparent from a reading of the following detailed description and examples. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0016] As used herein, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values ​​are included within the range, particularly in expressions such as "between" and "to."

[0017] As used herein, the term "comprising" should be interpreted to encompass all specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, unspecified features.

[0018] As used herein, use of the term "comprising" also discloses embodiments in which no features are present other than those specifically stated (i.e., "consisting of").

[0019] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this invention belongs. When a definition of a term in this description conflicts with a meaning commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this invention belongs, the definition set forth herein shall apply.

[0020] Unless otherwise specified, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and the like used in the description and claims are to be understood as modified by the term "about." Accordingly, unless indicated to the contrary, the numbers and parameters set forth herein are approximate and can be varied, if necessary, according to the desired performance to be obtained.

[0021] As used herein, the term "keratinous material" includes animal keratinous material and human keratinous material such as hair and skin.

[0022] As used herein, the phrase "at least one" as used in this description is equivalent to the phrase "one or more."

[0023] "Anhydrous" means that no water is added intentionally and that the composition contains less than 0.5% by weight, in particular less than 0.1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In particular, no water is present in the composition.

[0024] According to a first aspect of the present invention, a clear anhydrous composition for caring for keratinous materials comprises: a) at least one acetylated hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof, and b) Propylene glycol Includes.

[0025] Acetylated hyaluronic acid or its salts Acetylated hyaluronic acid is a derivative obtained by a process involving substituting hydroxyls on the disaccharide structure of hyaluronic acid (HA). The structure of acetylated hyaluronic acid is as follows:

[0026] [ka]

[0027] wherein each R is independently CH3CO- or H, and at least one R is CH3CO-.

[0028] Salts of acetylated hyaluronic acid include sodium acetylated hyaluronate and potassium acetylated hyaluronate.

[0029] The structure of acetylated sodium hyaluronate is:

[0030] [ka]

[0031] wherein each R is independently CH3CO- or H, and at least one R is CH3CO-.

[0032] The degree of acetylation of acetylated hyaluronic acid (proportion of acetylated modified hyaluronic acid) can be determined by NMR. Acetylated hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof preferably has an acetylation degree of 0.5 to 1. Acetylated hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof more preferably has an acetylation degree of 0.75 to 1, and even more preferably 0.8 to 1.

[0033] The acetylated hyaluronic acid or its salt preferably has a mass-average molecular weight of 1,000 Da to 100,000 Da as determined by high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC), and more preferably has a mass-average molecular weight of 20,000 Da to 50,000 Da, and even more preferably 20,000 Da to 30,000 Da as determined by high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC).

[0034] Two or more types of acetylated hyaluronic acid or salts thereof having different weight average molecular weights may be used together.

[0035] Commercially available products of acetylated hyaluronic acid or its salts include acetylated sodium hyaluronate having an acetylation degree of 0.75 and a mass-average molecular weight of 30,000 Da to 50,000 Da, sold under the name HYMAGIC-ACHA by BLOOMAGE FREDA BIOPHARM, and acetylated sodium hyaluronate having an acetylation degree of 1 and a mass-average molecular weight of 20,000 Da, sold under the name PRIMALHYAL ULTRAFILLER by GIVAUDAN.

[0036] Advantageously, the acetylated hyaluronic acid or its salts are present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.3% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0037] Propylene glycol According to a first embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises propylene glycol.

[0038] For the purposes of the present invention, the definition of propylene glycol includes all possible isomers: 1,3-propylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol and 1,1-propylene glycol.

[0039] Advantageously, propylene glycol is present in an amount ranging from 10% to 95% by weight, preferably from 30% to 95% by weight, preferably from 40% to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0040] cationic surfactants In some embodiments, the composition according to the present invention comprises a cationic surfactant.

[0041] The term "cationic surfactant" refers to a surfactant that can be positively charged when included in a composition according to the present invention. The surfactant can carry one or more permanent positive charges or can contain one or more functional groups that can be cationized in a composition according to the present disclosure.

[0042] Non-limiting examples of cationic surfactants include cetrimonium chloride, stearamidopropyltrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, behenamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyltrimonium chloride, arachidotrimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, tricetylmonium chloride, oleamidopropyldimethylamine, linoleamidopropyldimethylamine, isostearamidopropyldimethylamine, oleylhydroxyethylimidazoline, stearamidopropyldimethyl Amines include behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl diethylamine, behenamidoethyl diethyl-amine, behenamidoethyl dimethylamine, arachidamidopropyl dimethylamine, arachidamidopropyl(propyi)diethylamine, arachidamidoethyl(ethyi)diethylamine, arachidamidoethyl(ethyi)dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof.

[0043] In some examples, the cationic surfactant is preferably cetrimonium chloride, stearimmonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, behenamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyltrimonium chloride, arachidotrimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, tricetylmonium chloride, oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearyldimonium chloride, stearamidopropyltri ... The amine is selected from aramidopropyl dimethylamine, oleyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl diethylamine, behenamidoethyl diethylamine, behenamidoethyl dimethylamine, arachidamidopropyl dimethylamine, arachidamidopropyl(propyi)diethylamine, arachidamidoethyl(ethyi)diethylamine, arachidamidoethyl(ethyi)dimethylamine and mixtures thereof.

[0044] In some examples, the cationic surfactant is more preferably selected from cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.

[0045] Additionally, in some cases, the cationic surfactant is most preferably cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, or a mixture thereof.

[0046] When present, the cationic surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0047] Additional alcohol In some embodiments, the compositions according to the present invention further comprise, in addition to propylene glycol, an additional alcohol, such as a monohydric alcohol having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, ethylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, and glycerin.

[0048] For example, the monohydric alcohol may be selected from ethanol, propanol, butanol, pentanol, hexanol, isopropyl alcohol, cyclo(cyco)hexanol, isobutyl alcohol, 2-methyl-2-butanol (2-methylbutan-2-ol), and mixtures thereof.

[0049] In some examples, the one or more monohydric alcohols include ethanol. For example, the composition may include ethanol and, optionally, one or more additional monohydric alcohols having 2 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0050] When present, the additional alcohol is present in an amount ranging from 5% to 95% by weight, preferably from 20% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0051] Additional cosmetic active ingredients In some embodiments, compositions according to the present invention comprise at least one cosmetic active ingredient for caring for keratinous materials.

[0052] The cosmetically active ingredient can be dissolved in an anhydrous medium, especially propylene glycol.

[0053] Examples of cosmetically active ingredients that can be contained in the composition according to the present invention include Japanese knotweed (polygonum cuspidatum) root extract, ascorbic acid, ferulic acid, caffeine, nicotinamide, panthenol, ceramide, amino acids, etc.

[0054] Those skilled in the art will be able to adjust the amount of cosmetically active ingredient depending on the intended purpose.

[0055] Additional adjuvants or additives The compositions of the present invention may also include conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, such as fragrances, chelating agents (e.g., disodium EDTA), preservatives (e.g., chlorphenesin and phenoxyethanol), as well as bactericides, surfactants, thickeners, pH adjusters (e.g., citric acid, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide), and mixtures thereof.

[0056] Those skilled in the art will be able to select the amount of additional adjuvants or additives so as not to adversely affect the end use of the composition according to the invention.

[0057] Preparation and Use The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential components a) and b) and any additional components as described above.

[0058] The method and means for mixing the above essential components and optional components are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above essential components and optional components to prepare the composition according to the present invention.

[0059] The composition according to the invention has a transparent appearance.

[0060] The term "transparent" means that the composition has a turbidity of 20 NTU (Nephelometric Turbidity Units) or less. Turbidity measurements can be performed, for example, using a WGZ-200B turbidimeter manufactured by Shanghai INESA Physico-optical instrument Co., Ltd. Measurements are performed at room temperature (20°C to 25°C).

[0061] Preferably, the compositions of the present invention will have a turbidity of 10 NTU or less, preferably 5 NTU or less, even more preferably 2 NTU or less.

[0062] The compositions according to the invention are stable over time.

[0063] "Stable over time" is understood to mean that the compositions of the invention do not exhibit any change in microscopic appearance after storage for 2 months at any temperature between 4°C and 45°C.

[0064] Preferably, the transparent appearance of the compositions according to the present invention is stable over time.

[0065] The compositions according to the invention can be used as rinse-off or leave-on products, for example as hair conditioners or skin care products.

[0066] According to a second aspect of the present invention, there is provided a non-therapeutic method for caring for keratinous materials, comprising the step of applying to the keratinous materials a composition as described above.

[0067] In some embodiments, the clear anhydrous compositions according to the present invention are intended to care for hair so that it remains strong, shiny and bouncy.

[0068] In some embodiments, the clear anhydrous compositions according to the present invention are intended for moisturizing the skin to provide a hydrating benefit to the skin.

[0069] The following examples are given as illustrations of the present invention and are not to be construed as limiting its scope. [Example]

[0070] The main raw materials used, their trade names and suppliers are listed in Table 1.

[0071] [Table 1]

[0072] (Invention Examples 1 to 4 and Comparative Examples 1 to 2) Hair conditioners of inventive formulations (IE.) 1 to 4 and comparative formulations (CE.) 1 to 4 were prepared using the ingredients listed in Table 2 (contents expressed as parts by weight unless otherwise indicated).

[0073] [Table 2]

[0074] The hair conditioners of Formulas 1-4 of the present invention contain propylene glycol and acetylated sodium hyaluronate.

[0075] Comparative hair conditioner Formula 1 contains butylene glycol instead of propylene glycol.

[0076] Comparative hair conditioner Formula 2 contains dipropylene glycol instead of propylene glycol.

[0077] Comparative hair conditioner Formula 3 contains glycerin instead of propylene glycol.

[0078] Comparative hair conditioner Formula 4 contains ethanol instead of propylene glycol.

[0079] Preparation procedure Using the hair conditioner of Formula 2 of the present invention as an example, a hair conditioner was prepared as follows.

[0080] 1) Propylene glycol, myristyl alcohol, dicaprylyl carbonate, cetrimonium chloride, if present, and behentrimonium chloride are mixed at 60° C. to obtain a hair care glycol phase.

[0081] 2) If present, add acetylated sodium hyaluronate to the glycol phase.

[0082] 3) After cooling to room temperature, the alcohol is immediately mixed with the glycol phase to obtain the final solution.

[0083] evaluation The appearance of each of the resulting hair conditioners was observed with the naked eye.

[0084] The stability of each obtained hair conditioner was evaluated by storing the hair conditioner at 4°C, room temperature (20°C), or 45°C for two months and observing with the naked eye to confirm whether the hair conditioner was transparent. If the tested hair conditioner remained transparent for two months at all temperatures of 4°C, room temperature (20°C), and 45°C, it was evaluated as stable, and if not, it was evaluated as unstable.

[0085] The turbidity was measured using a WGZ-200B turbidimeter manufactured by Shanghai INESA Physico-optical instrument Co., Ltd.

[0086] The results are summarized in Table 3.

[0087] [Table 3]

[0088] (Invention Examples 5 to 7 and Comparative Examples 5 to 8) Skin care serums of inventive formulations (IE.) 5 to 7 and comparative formulations (CE.) 5 to 8 were prepared using the ingredients listed in Table 4 (contents expressed as parts by weight unless otherwise indicated).

[0089] [Table 4]

[0090] The skin care serums of formulations 5 to 7 of the present invention contain propylene glycol and acetylated sodium hyaluronate.

[0091] The comparative skin care serum of Formula 5 contains sodium hyaluronate instead of acetylated sodium hyaluronate.

[0092] The comparative skin care serum of Formula 6 contains sodium hyaluronate instead of acetylated sodium hyaluronate.

[0093] The comparative skin care serum of Formula 7 contains hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate instead of acetylated sodium hyaluronate.

[0094] The comparative skin care serum of Formula 8 contains sodium hyaluronate instead of acetylated sodium hyaluronate.

[0095] Preparation procedure Using the skin care serum of Comparative Example Formula 5 as an example, a skin care serum was prepared as follows.

[0096] 1) Mix glycerin, Japanese knotweed root extract, ascorbic acid, ferulic acid, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and, if present, acetylated sodium hyaluronate to obtain a skin care glycolic phase.

[0097] 2) The glycol phase is then heated to 80°C and mixed for 20 minutes to obtain a solution.

[0098] 3) The solution is immediately cooled to room temperature.

[0099] evaluation The appearance of each of the obtained skin care serums was observed with the naked eye.

[0100] The stability of each obtained skin care serum was evaluated by storing the skin care serum at 4°C, room temperature (20°C), or 45°C for 2 months and observing with the naked eye to confirm whether the skin care serum was transparent. If the tested skin care serum remained transparent for 2 months at all temperatures of 4°C, room temperature (20°C), and 45°C, it was evaluated as stable, and if not, it was evaluated as unstable.

[0101] The turbidity was measured using a WGZ-200B turbidimeter manufactured by Shanghai INESA Physico-optical instrument Co., Ltd.

[0102] The results are summarized in Table 5.

[0103] [Table 5]

Claims

1. A clear, anhydrous composition for caring for keratinous materials, comprising: a) at least one acetylated hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof, and b) Propylene glycol Including, a) the acetylated hyaluronic acid or its salt has a degree of acetylation of 0.75 to 1 and a mass average molecular weight of 20,000 Da to 50,000 Da as determined by high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC); a) the acetylated hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; b) A composition wherein propylene glycol is present in an amount ranging from 30% to 95% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

2. 2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the salt of acetylated hyaluronic acid is selected from sodium acetylated hyaluronate, potassium acetylated hyaluronate, and mixtures thereof.

3. 3. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the acetylated hyaluronic acid or its salt has a degree of acetylation of 0.8 to 1.

4. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the acetylated hyaluronic acid or its salt has a mass average molecular weight of 20,000 Da to 30,000 Da, as determined by high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC).

5. 5. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the acetylated hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. 6. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein propylene glycol is present in an amount ranging from 40% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. 7. The composition of claim 1, further comprising at least one cationic surfactant.

8. 8. The composition of claim 7, wherein the at least one cationic surfactant is selected from cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.

9. 8. The composition according to claim 6, wherein the cationic surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. 10. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, which is a conditioner or a skin care product.

11. A non-therapeutic method for caring for keratinous materials, comprising applying a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10 to said keratinous materials.

12. 12. The method of claim 11, wherein the keratinous material is skin or hair.

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