Silicone-free composition for keratin fibres in the form of an ultrafine O / W emulsion

Abstract

To provide a silicone-free composition for keratin fibers which not only has a transparent or translucent appearance but also imparts a good feel to hair. [Solution] The present invention relates to a composition for keratin fibers, preferably hair, in the form of an O / W emulsion in which oil droplets are dispersed in an aqueous phase, the composition comprising at least one surfactant, the oil droplets comprising at least one non-silicone oil, the number-average diameter of the oil droplets being less than 200 nm, and the composition containing no silicone or less than 0.001% by weight of silicone relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition not only has a transparent or translucent appearance, but can also provide hair with excellent feel.

Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] The present invention relates to a silicone-free composition for keratinous fibers in the form of an ultra-fine O / W emulsion, in particular a shampoo, which is transparent or translucent and which can give better performance than silicone-containing compositions. [Background technology]

[0002] Transparent or translucent compositions for keratin fibers, such as transparent or translucent shampoos, have a beautiful product appearance and are therefore attractive to consumers. Many transparent or translucent shampoos containing silicones are widely known. Silicones are generally used in hair washing / conditioning compositions to facilitate hair detangling and to provide flexibility and softness to hair. For example, US8425501(B2) discloses a highly optically transparent or semi-transparent shampoo composition containing a silicone oil having an internal phase viscosity of less than about 50,000 cst. US2004 / 0076596(A1) discloses an optically transparent composition for hair treatment, such as a shampoo, containing a hydrophobic silicone oil. EP1330229(B2) discloses an optically transparent aqueous composition, such as a shampoo, containing a hydrophobic silicone oil.

[0003] In recent years, consumers have become more sensitive to the safety of ingredients used in cosmetics and have shown interest in more environmentally friendly products. With regard to silicones, there are currently environmental concerns. Therefore, there is a strong demand for silicone-free, transparent or translucent shampoos that can match the performance of silicone-containing shampoos.

[0004] However, when natural oils such as triglyceride oils are used in place of silicone oils in compositions for keratin fibers, it becomes difficult to maintain a transparent or translucent appearance for a long period of time. Therefore, there is no silicone-free composition for keratin fibers that completely satisfies consumers. [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]

[0005] [Patent Document 1] US8425501(B2) [Patent Document 2] US2004 / 0076596(A1) [Patent Document 3] EP1330229(B2) [Patent Document 4] U.S. Patent No. 2,528,378 [Patent Document 5] U.S. Patent No. 2,781,354 [Patent Document 6] U.S. Patent No. 4,874,554 [Patent Document 7] U.S. Patent No. 4,137,180 [Non-patent literature]

[0006] [Non-Patent Document 1] CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary & Handbook, 15th Edition, 2014 [Non-patent document 2] CTFA dictionary, 3rd edition, 1982 [Non-patent document 3] CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993 [Non-patent document 4] CTFA, 1997 [Non-Patent Document 5] "Handbook of Surfactants", by MR Porter, Blackie & Son Publishers (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116-178. Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0007] It is an object of the present invention to provide a silicone-free composition for keratinous fibers that not only has a transparent or translucent appearance but also provides good feel to the hair. [Means for solving the problem]

[0008] The above-mentioned objects of the present invention can be achieved by a composition for keratin fibers, preferably hair, in the form of an O / W emulsion in which oil droplets are dispersed in an aqueous phase, wherein the composition comprises at least one surfactant, the oil droplets comprise at least one non-silicone oil, the number-average diameter of the oil droplets is less than 200 nm, and the composition is free of silicone or contains less than 0.001% by weight of silicone relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0009] The non-silicone oil may be selected from the group consisting of oils of vegetable or animal origin, synthetic oils, hydrocarbon oils, and fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

[0010] The non-silicone oil may preferably be a vegetable oil such as a triglyceride oil.

[0011] The non-silicone oil may be present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0012] The surfactant may be selected from the group consisting of anionic, cationic, nonionic, and amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

[0013] Preferably, the surfactant is selected from the group consisting of monooxyalkylenated, polyoxyalkylenated, monoglycerolated, and polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants, such as polyoxyethylenated nonionic surfactants.

[0014] The surfactant may be present in an amount ranging from 10% to 70% by weight, preferably from 20% to 60% by weight, more preferably from 30% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0015] The number average diameter of the oil droplets may be less than 180 nm, preferably less than 160 nm, more preferably less than 140 nm.

[0016] The number average diameter of the oil droplets may be greater than 1 nm, preferably greater than 5 nm, more preferably greater than 10 nm, especially greater than 20 nm.

[0017] The compositions may be cleansing compositions for hair, such as shampoos and hair conditioners.

[0018] The composition may have a clear or translucent appearance, preferably a clear appearance.

[0019] Preferably, the composition is silicone-free.

[0020] The present invention also relates to a method for preparing a composition for keratin fibers, preferably hair, in the form of an O / W emulsion in which oil droplets are dispersed in an aqueous phase, the number average diameter of the oil droplets being less than 200 nm, comprising: - mixing at least one non-silicone oil and at least one surfactant; - diluting the mixture with water to form an O / W emulsion; - optionally adding to the composition at least one additional agent selected from the group consisting of surfactants, conditioning agents, preservatives, pH adjusters and other customary adjuvants used in the field of compositions for treating keratinous fibers; wherein the composition is silicone-free or contains less than 0.001% by weight of silicone, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0021] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for treating keratinous fibers, preferably for cleansing hair, comprising: - applying a composition according to the invention to keratin fibres; - Rinse the treated keratin fibers with a sufficient amount of water. The present invention also relates to a method, including: DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0022] After extensive investigation, the inventors have discovered that it is possible to provide a silicone-free composition for keratin fibres, preferably hair, in the form of an ultra-fine O / W emulsion which not only has a transparent or translucent appearance but is also able to provide an excellent feeling to the hair.

[0023] Thus, one aspect of the present invention is a composition for keratinous fibers, preferably hair, in the form of an O / W emulsion in which oil droplets are dispersed in an aqueous phase, wherein the composition comprises at least one surfactant, the oil droplets comprise at least one non-silicone oil, the number-average diameter of the oil droplets is less than 200 nm, and the composition is free of silicone or contains less than 0.001% by weight of silicone relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0024] The composition according to the present invention can provide hair with good moisturizing feeling, smoothness, combability, etc. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention can be used as a cosmetic composition, preferably a cleansing composition, more preferably a shampoo.

[0025] The compositions according to the present invention will be described in more detail hereinafter.

[0026] [Composition] The composition according to the invention comprises less than 0.001% by weight of silicone, preferably less than 0.0005% by weight of silicone, more preferably less than 0.0001% by weight of silicone, relative to the total weight of the composition. Most preferably, the composition is free of silicone.

[0027] In other words, the compositions according to the present invention are "silicone-free" compositions.

[0028] The silicone-free composition according to the present invention provides hair with a better sensation, such as good moisturizing feeling, smoothness, and combability, while maintaining a transparent or translucent appearance due to the small size of the oil droplets of the ultrafine O / W emulsion.The transparency of the composition can be determined by measuring the turbidity, for example, with a turbidity meter (2100Q portable, Hach Company).Preferably, the turbidity of the composition is greater than 0, preferably greater than 10, and less than 200, preferably less than 150.

[0029] The composition according to the invention is preferably a cosmetic composition for keratinous fibers, preferably a cleansing composition for keratinous fibers, more preferably a cleansing composition for hair and scalp. Thus, the composition according to the invention may be a shampoo, hair conditioner, hair lotion, disentangler, hair cream or gel, styling lacquer, hair setting lotion, treatment lotion, dyeing composition (especially for oxidation dyeing), optionally in the form of a coloring shampoo, a hair-restructuring lotion, a permanent wave composition, a scalp shampoo or conditioner, a hair loss control lotion or gel. Most preferably, the composition according to the invention is a shampoo or a hair conditioner.

[0030] oil drop The oil droplets (oil phase) of the O / W emulsion according to the invention comprise at least one non-silicone oil, the amount of which may range from 0.1 to 80% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 60% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0031] The oil phase is in the form of ultrafine droplets, and therefore the O / W emulsion according to the present invention is also called "ultrafine O / W emulsion". The number-average diameter of the oil droplets in the ultrafine O / W emulsion of the present invention is less than 200 nm, preferably less than 180 nm, more preferably less than 160 nm, and especially less than 140 nm. Generally, the number-average diameter of the oil droplets is preferably greater than 1 nm, more preferably greater than 5 nm, even more preferably greater than 10 nm, and especially greater than 20 nm. The particle size of the oil droplets can be measured, for example, by a particle size analyzer (Vasco, Cordoun Technologies).

[0032] (non-silicone oil) The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one non-silicone oil. Two or more non-silicone oils may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of non-silicone oil or a combination of different types of non-silicone oils may be used.

[0033] Here, "non-silicone oil" means a non-silicone compound or substance that is in the form of a liquid, paste, or solid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As the non-silicone oil, those commonly used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination.

[0034] The non-silicone oil may be selected from the group consisting of oils of vegetable or animal origin, synthetic oils, hydrocarbon oils, and fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

[0035] Preferably, the non-silicone oil is a natural oil selected from vegetable oils or animal oils.

[0036] Examples of vegetable oils include hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, such as phytostearyl esters, for example, phytostearyl oleate, phytostearyl isostearate, and lauroyl / octyldodecyl / phytostearyl glutamate (Ajinomoto Co., Inc., Eldew PS203), fatty acid esters of glycerol (particularly fatty acids of C4 to C6 36 , especially C 18~C 36 triglycerides formed from oils which may optionally be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, in particular heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, shea oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, winter squash oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, kukui oil, passionflower oil, shea butter, aloe vera oil, sweet almond oil, peach kernel oil, peanut oil, argan oil, avocado oil, baobab oil, borage oil, broccoli oil, calendula oil, camellia oil, canola oil, carrot oil, safflower oil, flax oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, coconut oil, marrow seed oil, oil), wheat germ oil, jojoba oil, lily oil, macadamia oil, corn oil, medfoam oil, St. John's Wort oil, monoi oil, hazelnut oil, apricot kernel oil, walnut oil, olive oil, evening primrose oil, palm oil, blackcurrant seed oil, kiwi seed oil, grapeseed oil, pistachio oil, winter squash oil, pumpkin oil, quinoa oil, musk rose oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, castor oil and watermelon oil, and mixtures thereof, or caprylic / capric triglycerides, such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by Dynamit Nobel. Mention may also be made of modified vegetable oils, for example activated coconut oil such as that sold under the name Scalpro or Acnaed by the company Biotropics.

[0037] Examples of animal oils include squalene and squalane.

[0038] Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils, and artificial triglycerides.

[0039] The ester oil is preferably a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C 26 Liquid esters of aliphatic mono- or polyacids, and saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C 26 They are liquid esters of aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms in these esters preferably being 10 or more, preferably 30 or less.

[0040] Preferably, in the case of esters of monoalcohols, at least one of the alcohol and acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.

[0041] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, and isostearyl neopentanoate.

[0042] C4~C 22 Dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C 22 Esters of alcohols and monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic, or tricarboxylic acids with non-sugar C4-C 26 Esters with dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy, or pentahydroxy alcohols can also be used.

[0043] In particular, mention may be made of diethyl sebacate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosine, diisopropyl sebacate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate, diisostearyl adipate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate, triisopropyl citrate, triisocetyl citrate, triisostearyl citrate, glyceryl trilactate, glyceryl trioctanoate, trioctyldodecyl citrate, trioleyl citrate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, and diethylene glycol diisononanoate.

[0044] Ester oils include C6 to C 30 , preferably C 12 ~C 22 Sugar esters and diesters of fatty acids can be used. The term "sugar" is recalled to mean an oxygen-containing hydrocarbon-based compound containing at least four carbon atoms and containing several alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.

[0045] Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, and lactose, as well as derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, e.g., methylglucose.

[0046] Sugar esters of fatty acids are, in particular, those esters of the sugars mentioned above with linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C 30 , preferably C 12 ~C 22 They can be selected from the group comprising esters or mixtures of esters with fatty acids. When they are unsaturated, these compounds can have 1 to 3 conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0047] The esters according to this variant may also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

[0048] These esters may be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, coconut, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, and arachidonic acid esters, or mixtures thereof, such as, inter alia, mixed esters of oleopalmitic, oleostearic, and palmitostearic acid, and pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate.

[0049] More particularly, monoesters and diesters are used, especially the monooleate or dioleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate, and oleostearate of sucrose, glucose, or methylglucose.

[0050] An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0051] Examples of preferred ester oils include, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicarbonate, Examples of suitable alkyl acrylates include purilyl, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

[0052] Examples of artificial triglycerides include caprylic / caprylyl glyceride, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, capric / caprylic triglyceride, and capric / caprylic / linolenic triglyceride.

[0053] The hydrocarbon oil may be selected from: - Linear or branched, optionally cyclic C6-C 16 Lower alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane, isododecane, and isodecane; and - linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffin, liquid petrolatum, polydecene and hydrogenated polyisobutenes, such as Parleam®, and squalane.

[0054] Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils include linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, Vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalene, etc.; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane, and decene / butene copolymers; and mixtures thereof.

[0055] The term "fatty" in fatty alcohol means containing a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols having 4 or more, preferably 6 or more, more preferably 12 or more carbon atoms are included within the scope of fatty alcohol. Fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated. Fatty alcohols may be linear or branched.

[0056] The fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH, where R is selected from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched groups containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R is selected from C 12 ~C 20 Alkyl and C 12 ~C 20 R may be selected from alkenyl groups, which may or may not be substituted with at least one hydroxyl group.

[0057] Examples of fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0058] Preferably, the fatty alcohol is a saturated fatty alcohol.

[0059] Thus, fatty alcohols are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C6-C 30 Alcohols, preferably linear or branched, saturated C6-C 30 Alcohols, more preferably linear or branched, saturated C 12 ~C 20 You can choose from alcohol.

[0060] The term "saturated fatty alcohol" as used herein means an alcohol having a long aliphatic saturated carbon chain. A saturated fatty alcohol is any linear or branched, saturated C-C 30 Preferably, the alcohol is selected from linear or branched, saturated C6-C 30 Among the fatty alcohols, preference is given to linear or branched, saturated C 12 ~C 20 Fatty alcohols can be used. More preferably, any linear or branched, saturated C 16 ~C 20 Fatty alcohols can be used. More preferably, branched C 16 ~C 20 Fatty alcohols can be used.

[0061] Examples of saturated fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, or mixtures thereof (e.g., cetearyl alcohol) and behenyl alcohol can be used as saturated fatty alcohols.

[0062] The amount of non-silicone oil in the composition according to the invention ranges from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0063] surfactants The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one surfactant. Two or more surfactants may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of surfactant or a combination of different types of surfactants may be used.

[0064] Any surfactant can be used for the present invention. The surfactant can be selected from the group consisting of anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, cationic surfactants, and nonionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

[0065] i) Anionic surfactants The composition may contain at least one anionic surfactant. Two or more anionic surfactants may be used in combination.

[0066] Anionic surfactants are (C6-C 30 ) Alkyl sulfate, (C6-C 30 ) Alkyl ether sulfate, (C6-C 30 ) Alkyl amide ether sulfate, alkyl aryl polyether sulfate, monoglyceride sulfate; (C6-C 30 ) Alkyl sulfonates, (C6-C 30 ) Alkyl amidosulfonate, (C6-C 30 ) Alkylaryl sulfonates, α-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates; (C6-C 30 ) Alkyl phosphate; (C6-C 30 ) Alkyl sulfosuccinate, (C6-C 30 ) Alkyl ether sulfosuccinate, (C6-C 30 ) Alkylamide sulfosuccinate; (C6-C 30 ) Alkyl sulfoacetate; (C6-C 24 ) Acyl sarcosinate; (C6-C 24 ) Acyl glutamate; (C6-C 30 ) Alkyl polyglycoside carboxylic acid ether; (C6-C 30) Alkyl polyglycoside sulfosuccinate; (C6-C 30 ) Alkyl sulfosuccinamate; (C6-C 24 ) acyl isethionate;N-(C6-C 24 ) Acyl taurate; C6~C 30 Fatty acid salts; coconut oil salts or hydrogenated coconut oil salts; (C8-C 20 ) Acyl lactylate; (C6-C 30 ) Alkyl-D-galactosiduronate; Polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C 30 ) Alkyl ether carboxylate; Polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C 30 ) alkyl aryl ether carboxylates; and polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C 30 ) alkyl amide ether carboxylates; and the corresponding acid forms.

[0067] In at least one embodiment, the anionic surfactant is in the form of a salt, such as an alkali metal salt, for example, sodium salt; an alkaline earth metal salt, for example, magnesium salt; ammonium salt; amine salt; and amino alcohol salt. Depending on the conditions, they may also be in the form of an acid.

[0068] Anionic surfactants are (C6-C 30 ) Alkyl sulfates, (C6-C 30 ) alkyl ether sulfate or chlorinated or non-chlorinated polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C 30 ) alkyl ether carboxylic acids.

[0069] In particular, anionic surfactants include those of the C6-C8 series, such as lauryl sulfate, laureth sulfate, and salts and mixtures thereof. 30 ) alkyl ether sulfate. More particularly, the lauryl sulfate may be sodium lauryl sulfate, and the laureth sulfate may be sodium laureth sulfate. Most preferably, the anionic surfactant is sodium laureth sulfate.

[0070] (ii) amphoteric surfactants The composition may contain at least one amphoteric surfactant. Two or more amphoteric surfactants may be used in combination.

[0071] Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants can be, for example (non-limiting list), amine derivatives, such as aliphatic secondary or tertiary amines, and optionally quaternized amine derivatives, in which the aliphatic group is a straight or branched chain containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and at least one water-solubilizing anionic group (e.g., carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate, or phosphonate).

[0072] The amphoteric surfactant may preferably be selected from the group consisting of betaine and amidoamine carboxylated derivatives.

[0073] The amphoteric surfactant is preferably selected from betaine type surfactants.

[0074] The betaine-type amphoteric surfactant is preferably an alkyl betaine, an alkylamido alkyl betaine, a sulfobetaine, a phosphobetaine, or an alkylamido alkyl sulfobetaine, particularly (C8 to C 24 ) Alkyl betaine, (C8-C 24 ) Alkylamide (C1-C8) alkyl betaine, sulfobetaine, and (C8-C 24 In one embodiment, the betaine-type amphoteric surfactant is selected from the group consisting of (C8-C) alkylamide (C1-C8) alkylsulfobetaines. 24 ) Alkyl betaine, (C8-C 24 ) alkylamido (C1-C8) alkyl sulfobetaines, sulfobetaines, and phosphobetaines.

[0075] Non-limiting examples that may be mentioned include the compounds classified in the CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary & Handbook, 15th edition, 2014, under the names cocobetaine, laurylbetaine, cetylbetaine, coco / oleamidopropylbetaine, cocamidopropylbetaine, palmitamidopropylbetaine, stearamidopropylbetaine, cocamidoethylbetaine, cocamidopropylhydroxysultaine, oleamidopropylhydroxysultaine, cocohydroxysultaine, laurylhydroxysultaine and cocosultaine, alone or in mixtures.

[0076] The betaine-type amphoteric surfactants are preferably alkyl betaines and alkylamido alkyl betaines, in particular cocobetaine and cocamidopropyl betaine.

[0077] Among the amidoamine carboxylated derivatives, mention may be made of the products sold under the name Miranol, described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 2,528,378 and 2,781,354, and classified in the CTFA dictionary, 3rd edition, 1982, under the names amphocarboxyglycinates and amphocarboxypropionates, the disclosures of which are incorporated herein by reference, and which have the following respective structures: R1-CONHCH2CH2-N + (R2)(R3)(CH2COO - ) M + X - (B1) [In the formula, R1 represents the alkyl group of the acid R1-COOH present in the hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group, R2 represents a β-hydroxyethyl group; R3 represents a carboxymethyl group; M + represents a cationic ion derived from an alkali metal such as sodium; an ammonium ion; or an ion derived from an organic amine, X- denotes organic or inorganic anions, such as halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(C1-C4)sulfates, alkyl(C1-C4)- or alkyl(C1-C4)aryl-sulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate, or M + and X - does not exist]; R1'-CONHCH2CH2-N(B)(C) (B2) [In the formula, R1' is an alkyl group of the acid R1'-COOH present in coconut oil or hydrolyzed linseed oil, C7, C9, C 11 Or C 13 Alkyl groups such as alkyl groups, C 17 Alkyl groups and their isoforms or unsaturated C 17 indicates a group, B represents -CH2CH2OX', C is -(CH2) z -Y', where z=1 or 2; X' represents a -CH2-COOH group, -CH2-COOZ', -CH2CH2-COOH, -CH2CH2-COOZ' or a hydrogen atom; Y' represents a -COOH, -COOZ', -CH2-CHOH-SO3Z', -CH2-CHOH-SO3H group or a -CH2-CH(OH)-SO3-Z' group; Z' represents an ion of an alkali or alkaline earth metal such as sodium, an ion derived from an organic amine, or an ammonium ion; and R a'' -NH-CH(Y'')-(CH2) n -C(O)-NH-(CH2) n' -N(Rd)(Re) (B'2) [In the formula, Y" represents -C(O)OH, -C(O)OZ", -CH2-CH(OH)-SO3H, or -CH2-CH(OH)-SO3-Z", where Z" represents a cationic ion derived from an alkali metal such as sodium or an alkaline earth metal, an ion derived from an organic amine, or an ammonium ion; Rd and Re each represent a C1-C4 alkyl or C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl group; R a'' is an acid-derived C 10 ~C 30 represents an alkyl group or an alkenyl group, n and n' independently represent an integer of 1 to 3.

[0078] The amphoteric surfactants having formula B1 and B2 are (C8-C 24 )-Alkyl amphomonoacetate, (C8-C 24 ) Alkyl amphodiacetate, (C8-C 24 ) alkyl amphomonopropionates, and (C8-C 24 ) alkyl amphodipropionates.

[0079] These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphopropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid, and cocoamphodipropionic acid.

[0080] Mention may be made, by way of example, of cocoamphodiacetate sold under the trade name Miranol® C2M concentrate by the company Rhodia Chimie.

[0081] Among the compounds of formula (B'2), mention may be made of sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide (CTFA), sold under the name CHIMEXANE HB by the company CHIMEX.

[0082] (iii) Cationic surfactants The composition may contain at least one cationic surfactant. Two or more cationic surfactants may be used in combination.

[0083] The cationic surfactant may be selected from the group consisting of optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0084] Examples of quaternary ammonium salts that may be mentioned include, but are not limited to: - of the following general formula (B3):

[0085] [ka]

[0086] [In the formula, R1, R2, R3, and R4 may be the same or different and are straight-chain and branched aliphatic groups containing 1 to 30 carbon atoms and optionally containing heteroatoms such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, and halogens, such as alkyl, alkoxy, C2-C6 polyoxyalkylene, alkylamide, (C 12 ~C 22 ) alkylamido(C2-C6) alkyl, (C 12 ~C 22 aliphatic groups, which may be selected from alkyl acetates, and hydroxyalkyl groups; and aromatic groups, such as aryl and alkylaryl; X - is selected from halide ions, phosphate ions, acetate ions, lactate ions, (C2-C6) alkyl sulfate ions, and alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulfonate ions; quaternary ammonium salts of imidazolines, such as those of formula (B4):

[0087] [ka]

[0088] [In the formula, R5 is selected from alkenyl and alkyl groups containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as fatty acid derivatives of beef tallow or coconut; R6 is selected from hydrogen, C1-C4 alkyl groups, and alkenyl and alkyl groups containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms; R7 is selected from C1 to C4 alkyl groups; R8 is selected from hydrogen and a C1-C4 alkyl group; X - are selected from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl sulfonates, and alkylaryl sulfonates. In one embodiment, R5 and R6 are, for example, a mixture of groups selected from alkenyl and alkyl groups containing 12 to 21 carbon atoms, such as fatty acid derivatives of beef tallow, R7 is methyl, and R8 is hydrogen. Examples of such products include, but are not limited to, Quaternium-27 (CTFA, 1997) and Quaternium-83 (CTFA, 1997), sold by Witco under the names "Rewoquat®" W75, W90, W75PG, and W75HPG; di- or tri-quaternary ammonium salts of formula (B5):

[0089] [ka]

[0090] [In the formula, R9 is selected from an aliphatic group containing 16 to 30 carbon atoms; R 10is hydrogen or an alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or -(CH2)3(R 16a )(R 17a )(R 18a )N + X- - is selected from the group R 11 , R 12 , R 13 , R 14 , R 16a , R 17a , and R 18a are the same or different and are selected from hydrogen and alkyl groups containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms; X - is selected from halide, acetate, phosphate, nitrate, ethyl sulfate, and methyl sulfate. An example of such a diquaternary ammonium salt is FINQUAT CT-P (Quaternium-89) or FINQUAT CT (Quaternium-75) from FINETEX]; and Quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester functional group, such as those of formula (B6):

[0091] [ka]

[0092] [In the formula, R 22 is selected from C1-C6 alkyl groups and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl and dihydroxyalkyl groups; R 23 teeth, The following groups:

[0093] [ka]

[0094] , linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C1-C 22 Hydrocarbon group R 27 and hydrogen; R 25 teeth, The following groups:

[0095] [ka]

[0096] , linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon radicals R 29 and hydrogen; R 24 , R 26 , and R 28 may be the same or different, and may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C7 to C 21 selected from hydrocarbon-based groups, r, s, and t may be the same or different and are selected from integers ranging from 2 to 6; Each of r1 and t1 may be the same or different and is 0 or 1, r2+r1=2r and t1+t2=2t; y is selected from an integer ranging from 1 to 10; x and z may be the same or different and are selected from integers ranging from 0 to 10; X - is selected from simple and complex organic and inorganic anions, where the sum x+y+z ranges from 1 to 15, and when x is 0, R 23 is R 27 If z is 0, then R 25 is R 29 R 22 can be selected from linear and branched alkyl groups. In one embodiment, R 22 is selected from linear alkyl groups. 22 is selected from methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl, and dihydroxypropyl groups, e.g., methyl and ethyl groups. In one embodiment, the sum x+y+z ranges from 1 to 10. R 23 is a hydrocarbon group R 27When R is, it may be long chain and contain 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short chain and contain 1 to 3 carbon atoms. 25 is a hydrocarbon group R 29 When R is, it may contain, for example, 1 to 3 carbon atoms. 24 , R 26 , and R 28 may be the same or different, and may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 11 ~C 21 Hydrocarbon-based groups, such as linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C 11 ~C 21 In another embodiment, x and z are the same or different and are equal to 0 or 1. In one embodiment, y is equal to 1. In another embodiment, r, s, and t are the same or different and are equal to 2 or 3, for example, 2. Anion X - can be selected from, for example, halides, such as chloride, bromide, and iodide; and C1-C4 alkyl sulfates, such as methyl sulfate. However, methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, anions derived from organic acids, such as acetate and lactate, and all other anions compatible with ammonium containing an ester function are other non-limiting examples of anions that can be used in accordance with the present invention. In one embodiment, the anion X - is selected from chloride ions and methyl sulfate ions].

[0097] In another embodiment, an ammonium salt of formula (B6) R 22 is selected from methyl and ethyl groups; x and y are equal to 1, z is equal to 0 or 1, r, s, and t are equal to 2, R 23 teeth, The following groups:

[0098] [ka]

[0099] , methyl, ethyl, and C 14 ~C 22 selected from hydrocarbon-based groups and hydrogen; R 25 teeth, The following groups:

[0100] [ka]

[0101] and hydrogen; R 24 , R 26 , and R 28 may be the same or different, and may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 13 ~C 17 Hydrocarbon-based groups, such as linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C 13 ~C 17 alkyl and alkenyl groups can be used.

[0102] In one embodiment, the hydrocarbon-based group is linear.

[0103] Non-limiting examples of compounds of formula (B6) that may be mentioned include salts, such as chlorides and methyl sulfates, of diacyloxyethyl-dimethylammonium, diacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-methylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl-dihydroxyethyl-methylammonium, triacyloxyethyl-methylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-dimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, the acyl group may contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and may be derived, for example, from vegetable oils, such as palm oil and sunflower oil. When a compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be the same or different.

[0104] These products can be obtained, for example, by direct esterification of optionally oxyalkylenated triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine, or alkyldiisopropanolamine with fatty acids or with mixtures of fatty acids of vegetable or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification can be followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent selected from alkyl halides, such as methyl and ethyl halides; dialkyl sulfates, such as dimethyl and diethyl sulfate; methyl methanesulfonate; methyl para-toluenesulfonate; glycol chlorohydrin; and glycerol chlorohydrin.

[0105] Such compounds are sold, for example, by Cognis under the name Dehyquart®, by Stepan under the name Stepanquat®, by Ceca under the name Noxamium® and by Rewo-Goldschmidt under the name "Rewoquat® WE 18".

[0106] Other non-limiting examples of ammonium salts that can be used in the compositions according to the present invention include ammonium salts containing at least one ester functional group as described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 4,874,554 and 4,137,180.

[0107] The above-mentioned quaternary ammonium salts that can be used in the compositions according to the invention include, but are not limited to, tetraalkylammonium chlorides, such as dialkyldimethylammonium chloride and alkyltrimethylammonium chloride (wherein the alkyl group contains from about 12 to 22 carbon atoms), such as behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride and benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride; palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride; and stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium chloride, sold under the name "Ceraphyl® 70" by Van Dyk.

[0108] According to one embodiment, the cationic surfactants that may be used in the compositions according to the invention are chosen from behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, quaternium-83, quaternium-87, quaternium-22, behenylamidopropyl-2,3-dihydroxypropyldimethylammonium chloride, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride, and stearamidopropyldimethylamine.

[0109] (iv) Nonionic surfactants The composition may contain at least one nonionic surfactant. Two or more nonionic surfactants may be used in combination.

[0110] Nonionic surfactants are compounds well known in themselves (see, for example, in this regard, "Handbook of Surfactants", MR Porter, Blackie & Son, Glasgow and London, 1991, pp. 116-178).

[0111] The nonionic surfactant may be a fatty acid amide, and any amide containing at least one hydrocarbon chain containing at least 6 carbon atoms in its structure can be used. Fatty acid amides include amides of alkanolamines and saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C 30 They can be selected from compounds derived from amides of fatty acids, the alkanolamine and / or the fatty acid being optionally oxyalkylenated, more particularly oxyethylenated with 1 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide.

[0112] The fatty acid amide is preferably a C2-C 10 Alkanolamines and C 14 ~C 30 amides of fatty acids, more preferably C2 to C 10 Alkanolamines and C 14 ~C 22 The amides are selected from amides of fatty acids.

[0113] Advantageously, the fatty acid amide can be selected from coconut oil fatty acid monoisopropanolamides, such as Cocamide MIPA oleic acid diethanolamide, myristic acid monoethanolamide, soybean fatty acid diethanolamide, stearic acid ethanolamide, oleic acid monoisopropanolamide, linoleic acid diethanolamide, stearic acid monoethanolamide, behenic acid monoethanolamide, isostearic acid monoisopropanolamide, erucic acid diethanolamide, ricinoleic acid monoethanolamide, and rapeseed fatty acid amides containing 4 mol of ethylene oxide. Most preferably, the fatty acid amide can be Cocamide MIPA, sold under the name EMPILAN CIS by INNOSPEC ACTIVE CHEMICALS.

[0114] Nonionic surfactants may also be selected from, for example, alcohols, α-diols, alkylphenols, and esters of fatty acids, which may be ethoxylated, propoxylated, or glycerolated, and may have, for example, at least one fatty chain containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, with the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups ranging from 2 to 50 and the number of glycerol groups ranging from 1 to 30. Maltose derivatives may also be mentioned. Copolymers of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide; condensates of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides containing, for example, 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; polyglycerolated fatty amides containing, for example, 1.5 to 5, e.g., 1.5 to 4, glycerol groups; ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan containing 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; ethoxylated oils of vegetable origin; fatty acid esters of sucrose; fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol; glycerol (C6-C8). 24 ) Polyethoxylated fatty acid mono- or diesters of alkyl polyglycosides; N-(C6-C 24 ) alkylglucamine derivatives; amine oxides, such as (C 10 ~C 14 ) alkylamine oxide or N-(C 10 ~C 14 ) acylaminopropylmorpholine oxide; and mixtures thereof.

[0115] The nonionic surfactant may preferably be selected from monooxyalkylenated, polyoxyalkylenated, monoglycerolated, or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants, the oxyalkylene units being more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units or combinations thereof, preferably oxyethylene units.

[0116] Examples of monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants that may be mentioned include, alone or in mixtures, the following: - Monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated (C8-C 24 ) alkylphenols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated C8-C 30 alcohol, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated C8-C 30 amides, - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-C 30 esters of acids and polyalkylene glycols, - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-C 30 monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated esters of acids with sorbitol, saturated or unsaturated, monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated vegetable oils, and - especially condensation products of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide.

[0117] The surfactant preferably contains a number of moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide between 1 and 100, most preferably between 2 and 50. According to one embodiment of the invention, the polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactant is selected from polyoxyethylenated fatty acid glycerides (polyethylene glycol ethers of fatty acid glycerides), polyoxyethylenated and polyoxypropylenated alkyl ethers, polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols (polyethylene glycol ethers of fatty alcohols) and polyoxyethylenated fatty esters (polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids).

[0118] Examples of polyoxyethylenated fatty acid glycerides or partial glycerides that may be mentioned include those having at least 30 polyalkylene units, i.e., 30 to 1000, preferably 30 to 500, more preferably 30 to 200, and most preferably 40 to 100 polyethylene glycol units. Examples include PEG-30 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-35 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-45 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-50 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-55 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-65 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-80 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-100 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-200 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-35 castor oil, PEG-50 castor oil, PEG-55 castor oil, PEG-60 castor oil, PEG-80 castor oil, PEG-100 castor oil, and PEG-200 castor oil.

[0119] Examples of polyoxyethylenated and polyoxypropylenated alkyl ethers that may be mentioned include polyoxyethylenated (1-40EO) and polyoxypropylenated (1-30PO) alkyl (C 16 ~C 30 ) ethers, especially polyoxyethylenated (15-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (5-30 PO) alkyl (C ) ethers, which can be selected from the group consisting of PPG-6 decyltetradeceth-30, PPG-13 decyltetradeceth-24, PPG-6 decyltetradeceth-20, PPG-5 ceteth-20, PPG-8 ceteth-20, and PPG-23 steareth-34. 16 ~C 24 ) ethers.

[0120] Polyoxyethylenated saturated fatty alcohols (or C8-C 30Examples of ethylene oxide adducts of lauryl alcohol, especially those containing 9 to 50 oxyethylene units, more especially those containing 10 to 12 oxyethylene units (CTFA names: Laureth-10 to Laureth-12); ethylene oxide adducts of behenyl alcohol, especially those containing 9 to 50 oxyethylene units (CTFA names: Beheneth-9 to Beheneth-50); ethylene oxide adducts of cetearyl alcohol (mixtures of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), especially those containing 10 to 30 oxyethylene units (CTFA names: ethylene oxide adducts of cetyl alcohol, especially those containing 10 to 30 oxyethylene units (CTFA names: ceteth-10 to ceteth-30); ethylene oxide adducts of stearyl alcohol, especially those containing 10 to 30 oxyethylene units (CTFA names: steareth-10 to steareth-30); ethylene oxide adducts of isostearyl alcohol, especially those containing 10 to 50 oxyethylene units (CTFA names: isosteareth-10 to isosteareth-50); and mixtures thereof.

[0121] Polyoxyethylenated unsaturated fatty alcohols (or C8-C 30 Examples of ethylene oxide adducts of oleyl alcohol, particularly those containing from 2 to 50 oxyethylene units, more particularly those containing from 10 to 40 oxyethylene units (CTFA names oleth-10 to oleth-40); and mixtures thereof.

[0122] Examples of monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants include monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C8-C6 40 Alcohols are preferably used.

[0123] In particular, monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C8-C 40The alcohol may correspond to the formula: RO-[CH2-CH(CH2OH)-O] m -H or RO-[CH(CHOH)-CHO] m -H [In the formula, R is a linear or branched C8-C 40 , preferably C8 to C 30 represents an alkyl or alkenyl group, and m represents a number ranging from 1 to 30, preferably from 1.5 to 10.

[0124] Examples of compounds that are suitable in the context of the present invention include lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 lauryl ether), lauryl alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol, oleyl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 oleyl ether), oleyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 oleyl ether), cetearyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, and octadecanol containing 6 mol of glycerol.

[0125] The alcohol may represent a mixture of alcohols, just as the value of m represents a statistical value, which means that in a commercial product, several types of polyglycerolated fatty alcohols may coexist in the form of a mixture.

[0126] Among the monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated alcohols, C8 / C containing 1 mol of glycerol 10 Alcohol, C containing 1 mol of glycerol 10 / C 12 C containing alcohol and 1.5 mol of glycerol 12 It is preferred to use alcohol.

[0127] Monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C8-C40 Fatty esters have the formula: R'O-[CH2-CH(CH2OR''')-O] m -R'' or R'O-[CH(CH2OR'')-CHO] m -R'' [In the formula, each of R', R'', and R''' independently represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C8 to C 40 , preferably C8 to C 30 represents an alkyl-CO- or alkenyl-CO- group, with the proviso that at least one of R', R'', and R''' is not a hydrogen atom, and m represents a number ranging from 1 to 30, preferably from 1.5 to 10. It can be equivalent to.

[0128] Examples of polyoxyethylenated fatty esters that may be mentioned include ethylene oxide adducts of lauric, palmitic, stearic or behenic esters, and mixtures thereof, especially those containing 9 to 100 oxyethylene units, such as PEG-9 to PEG-50 laurate (CTFA names: PEG-9 laurate to PEG-50 laurate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitate (CTFA names: PEG-9 palmitate to PEG-50 palmitate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 stearate (CTFA names: PEG-9 stearate to PEG-50 stearate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitostearate; PEG-9 to PEG-50 behenate (CTFA names: PEG-9 behenate to PEG-50 behenate); polyethylene glycol 100 EO monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate); and mixtures thereof.

[0129] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the nonionic surfactants are esters of polyols with fatty acids having saturated or unsaturated chains containing, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and their polyoxyalkylenated derivatives, preferably containing from 10 to 200, more preferably from 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units, e.g., C8-C 24, preferably C 12 ~C 22 Glyceryl esters of fatty acids and their polyoxyalkylenated derivatives, preferably containing from 10 to 200, more preferably from 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units; C8-C 24 , preferably C 12 ~C 22 Sorbitol esters of fatty acids and their polyoxyalkylenated derivatives, preferably containing from 10 to 200, more preferably from 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units; C8-C 24 , preferably C 12 ~C 22 Sugar (sucrose, maltose, glucose, fructose, and / or alkylglycose) esters of fatty acids and their polyoxyalkylenated derivatives, preferably containing 10 to 200, more preferably 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units; ethers of fatty alcohols; sugars and C8-C 24 , preferably C 12 ~C 22 ethers of fatty alcohols; and mixtures thereof.

[0130] Among the glyceryl esters of fatty acids, mention may be made of glyceryl stearate (mono-, di-, and / or tristearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate), glyceryl laurate or glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof, and among their polyoxyalkylenated derivatives, mention may be made of mono-, di-, or triesters of fatty acids and polyoxyalkylenated glycerols (mono-, di-, or triesters of fatty acids and polyalkylene glycol ethers of glycerol), preferably polyoxyethylenated glyceryl stearate (mono-, di-, and / or tristearate), such as PEG-20 glyceryl stearate (mono-, di-, and / or tristearate).

[0131] Mixtures of these surfactants can also be used, such as the product containing glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate sold by Uniqema under the name ARLACEL 165, and the product containing glyceryl stearate (mono- and distearate) and potassium stearate sold by Goldschmidt under the name TEGIN (CTFA name: Glyceryl Stearate SE).

[0132] C8~C 24 Sorbitol esters of fatty acids and their polyoxyalkylenated derivatives can be selected from sorbitan palmitate, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan trioleate, and esters of fatty acids and alkoxylated sorbitans containing, for example, 20 to 100 EO. Preferably, C8 to C 24 Sorbitol esters of fatty acids and their polyoxyalkylenated derivatives may be polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monostearate (CTFA name: Polysorbate 60). 24 Other examples of sorbitol esters of fatty acids and their polyoxyalkylenated derivatives include sorbitan monostearate (CTFA name: sorbitan stearate) sold under the name Span 60 by ICI, sorbitan monopalmitate (CTFA name: sorbitan palmitate) sold under the name Span 40 by ICI, and sorbitan tristearate 20 EO (CTFA name: polysorbate 65) sold under the name Tween 65 by ICI, polyethylene sorbitan trioleate (polysorbate 85) or compounds sold under the trade names Tween 20 or Tween 60 by Uniqema.

[0133] Esters of fatty acids and glucose or alkylglucose include glucose palmitate, alkylglucose sesquistearate, for example methylglucose sesquistearate, alkylglucose palmitates, for example methylglucose palmitate or ethylglucose palmitate, methylglucoside fatty esters, diesters of methylglucoside and oleic acid (CTFA name: methylglucose dioleate), mixed esters of methylglucoside and oleic acid / hydroxystearic acid mixtures (CTFA name: methylglucose dioleate / hydroxystearate), esters of methylglucoside and isostearic acid (CTFA name: methylglucose isostearate), esters of methylglucoside and lauric acid (CTFA name: methylglucose laurate), mixtures of mono- and diesters of methylglucoside and isostearic acid (CTFA name: methylglucose sesquiisostearate), mixtures of mono- and diesters of methylglucoside and stearic acid (CTFA name: methylglucose sesquistearate), in particular those marketed by the company AMERCHOL as Glucate Listed below are products marketed under the name SS, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0134] Among the ethoxylated ethers of fatty acids and glucose or alkyl glucose, there may be mentioned, for example, ethoxylated ethers of fatty acids and methyl glucose, in particular the polyethylene glycol ether of a diester of stearic acid and methyl glucose having about 20 mol of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucose distearate), such as the product sold under the name Glucam E-20 distearate by the company AMERCHOL, polyethylene glycol ether of a mixture of monoesters and diesters of stearic acid and methyl glucose having about 20 mol of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate), in particular the product sold under the name Glucamate SSE-20 by the company AMERCHOL and under the name Grillocose PSE-20 by the company GOLDSCHMIDT, and mixtures thereof.

[0135] Examples of sucrose esters include sucrose palmitostearate, sucrose stearate, and sucrose monolaurate.

[0136] As sugar ethers, alkylpolyglucosides can be used, such as decyl glucoside, for example the product sold under the name MYDOL 10 by Kao Chemicals, the product sold under the name PLANTAREN 2000 by Henkel, and the product sold under the name ORAMIX NS 10 by Seppic, caprylyl / capryl glucoside, for example the product sold under the name ORAMIX CG 110 by Seppic or under the name LUTENSOL GD 70 by BASF, lauryl glucoside, for example the products sold under the name PLANTAREN 1200 N and PLANTACARE 1200 by Henkel, coco-glucosides, for example the products sold under the name PLANTACARE 818 / UP by Henkel, cetostearyl glucoside, optionally in a mixture with cetostearyl alcohol, for example the product sold under the name MONTANOV by Seppic, Mention may in particular be made of those sold under the names TEGO-CARE CG90 by the company Goldschmidt and EMULGADE KE3302 by the company Henkel, arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of a mixture of arachidyl and behenyl alcohols and arachidyl glucoside sold under the name MONTANOV 202 by the company Seppic, cocoyl ethyl glucoside, for example in the form of a mixture with cetyl and stearyl alcohols (35 / 65) sold under the name MONTANOV 82 by the company Seppic, and mixtures thereof.

[0137] Mixtures of alkoxylated vegetable oil glycerides may also be mentioned, such as a mixture of ethoxylated (200 EO) palm and copra (7 EO) glycerides.

[0138] The nonionic surfactants according to the present invention are preferably alkenyl or branched C 12 ~C 22More preferably, the nonionic surfactant according to the present invention is PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, which contains an acyl chain, such as an oleyl or isostearyl group.

[0139] According to one embodiment of the invention, the nonionic surfactant is a copolymer of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, in particular a copolymer of the formula HO(C2H4O) a (C3H6O) b (C2H4O) c H wherein a, b, and c are integers such that a+c ranges from 2 to 100 and b ranges from 14 to 60. and copolymers thereof, and mixtures thereof.

[0140] The amount of surfactant in the composition according to the invention ranges from 10 to 70% by weight, preferably from 20 to 60% by weight, more preferably from 30 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0141] aqueous phase The composition according to the present invention comprises an aqueous medium. The aqueous medium is composed of water or a mixture of water and at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent, such as a C1-C4 lower alcohol such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol, or n-butanol; a polyol such as glycerin, propylene glycol, or polyethylene glycol; or a mixture thereof. Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises water.

[0142] The amount of water is not limited and may be from 40% to 99% by weight, preferably from 50% to 95% by weight, more preferably from 55% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0143] (conditioning agent) The compositions according to the present invention may comprise at least one conditioning agent. Two or more conditioning agents may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of conditioning agent or a combination of different types of conditioning agents may be used.

[0144] Conditioning agents are capable of providing conditioning benefits to keratinous fibers such as hair.

[0145] Preferably, the conditioning agent may be a cationic polymer or an amphoteric polymer.

[0146] The conditioning polymer is preferably selected from: (1) Cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of dialkyldiallylammonium salts, for example homopolymers or copolymers containing, as the main constituents of the chain, units corresponding to the following formula:

[0147] [ka]

[0148] [In the formula, k and t are equal to 0 or 1, and the sum k+t is equal to 1; R 12 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, R 10 and R 11 are each independently an alkyl group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group, the alkyl group preferably containing 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a lower (C1-C4) amidoalkyl group, or R10 and R11 together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached may represent a heterocyclic group such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl, R 10 and R 11 denote, independently of one another, an alkyl group preferably containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

[0149] Among the above-defined polymers, mention may more particularly be made of the dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymer sold under the name Merquat 100 by the company Nalco, as well as its homologues with lower weight-average molecular weights, and the copolymer of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and acrylamide sold under the name Merquat 550.

[0150] (2) Quaternary diammonium polymers, in particular having repeating units corresponding to the following formula:

[0151] [ka]

[0152] [In the formula, R 13 , R 14 , R 15 and R 16 may be the same or different and represent an aliphatic, alicyclic, or arylaliphatic group containing 1 to 20 carbon atoms, or a lower hydroxyalkylaliphatic group; or R 13 , R 14 , R 15 and R 16 together or separately, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, constitute a heterocycle optionally containing a second heteroatom other than nitrogen, or R 13 , R 14 , R 15 and R 16 is a nitrile, ester, acyl or amide group, or -CO-OR 17 -D or -CO-NH-R 17 -D(in the formula, R 17 represents a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl group substituted with each of the groups: A1 and B1 represent a polymethylene group containing 2 to 20 carbon atoms, which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain one or more aromatic rings attached to or inserted in the main chain, or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms, or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups; X - represents an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid, A1, R 13 and R 15 can form a piperazine ring together with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached.

[0153] (3) Cationic polysaccharides, especially cationic cellulose and galactomannan gum.

[0154] The cationic cellulose polymer may have at least one quaternary ammonium group. The cationic cellulose polymer may preferably be a quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose modified with at least one quaternary ammonium group containing at least one fatty chain (e.g., an alkyl, arylalkyl, or alkylaryl group containing at least 8 carbon atoms, or a mixture thereof). The alkyl group carried by the quaternary ammonium group may preferably contain 8 to 30 carbon atoms, particularly 10 to 30 carbon atoms. The aryl group preferably means a phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl, or anthryl group.

[0155] More preferably, the cationic cellulose polymer comprises at least one C8-C 30 It may contain at least one quaternary ammonium group containing a hydrocarbon group.

[0156] C8 to C that can be mentioned 30Examples of quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses containing fatty chains include the products Quatrisoft LM 200, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18-A, and Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18B (C 12 alkyl) and Quatrisoft LM-X 529-8(C 18 alkyl) or Softcat Polymer SL100, Softcat SX-1300X, Softcat SX-1300H, Softcat SL-5, Softcat SL-30, Softcat SL-60, Softcat SK-MH, Softcat SX-400X, Softcat SX-400H, SoftCat SK-L, Softcat SK-M and Softcat SK-H, as well as the products Crodacel QM, Crodacel QL (C 12 alkyl) and Crodacel QS(C 18 alkyl).

[0157] Among these quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses, the product corresponding to the INCI name Polyquaternium-67 is preferred.

[0158] According to another embodiment of the present invention, the conditioning agent may be a protein, a protein hydrolysate, or an amino acid.

[0159] Examples of proteins and protein hydrolysates that may be mentioned include casein, collagen, procollagen, gelatin, keratin, glycoprotein, hydrolyzed wheat protein, hydrolyzed soy protein, hydrolyzed oat protein, hydrolyzed rice protein, hydrolyzed vegetable protein, hydrolyzed yeast protein, and whey protein.

[0160] Examples of amino acids that may be mentioned include arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, carnitine, cocoyl sarcosine, glycine, glutamic acid, histidine, hydroxyproline, acetylhydroxyproline, isoleucine, lysine, lauroyl lysine, lauroyl sarcosine, methionine, phenylalanine, polylysine, potassium cocoyl glutamate, proline, sarcosine, serine, rice amino acids, silk amino acids, wheat amino acids, sodium glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, stearoyl sarcosine, threonine, tyrosine, tryptophan, and valine.

[0161] The conditioning agent may be present in a content sufficient to provide a conditioning effect to keratin fibers, for example, in a content ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0162] preservatives The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one preservative.

[0163] Non-limiting examples of preservatives include ethanol, polyvinyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol, salicylic acid, sodium benzoate, caprylyl glycol, methylparaben, propylparaben, ethylhexylglycerin, 1,3-propanediol, and mixtures thereof.

[0164] The preservative may be present in an amount sufficient to prevent degradation by microbial growth, for example, in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0165] thickener The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one thickening agent.

[0166] Non-limiting examples of thickeners include polymeric and non-polymeric thickeners. Exemplary polymeric thickeners include various natural gums. Exemplary non-polymeric thickeners include oxyethylated molecules, particularly ethoxylated alkyl or acyl derivatives of polyols, such as PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate. Preferably, the thickener may be a blend of propylene glycol and PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate, such as that commercially available from EVONIK under the name ANTIL® 141 LIQUID.

[0167] The thickener may be present in a content sufficient to modify the viscosity or rheology of the composition, for example in a content ranging from 0.01% to 7% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0168] pH adjuster The composition according to the present invention preferably contains at least one pH adjuster. The pH can be adjusted to a desired value by adding a pH adjuster, such as an organic or inorganic base or an organic or inorganic acid or a salt thereof, to the composition in a conventional manner. Examples of bases include ammonium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, sodium carbonate, or primary, secondary, or tertiary (poly)amines, such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, isopropanolamine, or 1,3-propanediamine. Examples of organic acids include carboxylic acids, citric acid, tartaric acid, and lactic acid. Examples of inorganic acids include hydrochloric acid, nitric acid, orthophosphoric acid, and sulfonic acid. Examples of salts include sodium phosphate and trisodium phosphate.

[0169] The pH adjuster may be present in an amount sufficient to adjust the pH of the composition to the desired value, for example, in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0170] additives If necessary, the compositions according to the invention can further contain all the customary adjuvants encountered in the field of compositions for treating keratinous fibers, such as hydrophilic solvents, perfumes, fragrances, sequestering agents such as EDTA (ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid) and its salts, foam regulators, colorants, moisturizers, antidandruff agents, antiseborrhoeic agents, etc., as long as the desired properties of the compositions according to the invention can be maintained.

[0171] The amount of additive contained in the composition according to the present invention is not limited, but can be from 0.01 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0172] [Preparation] The compositions according to the invention can be prepared by techniques conventional in the art.

[0173] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing at least one non-silicone oil and at least one surfactant, and then diluting the mixture with water by conventional methods to form an O / W emulsion, wherein the number average diameter of the oil droplets is less than 200 nm.Optionally, after the emulsion is formed, additional agents can be mixed with the composition.

[0174] For example, a shampoo according to the present invention can be obtained by mixing at least one non-silicone oil and at least one surfactant, diluting the mixture with water to form an O / W emulsion in which oil droplets are dispersed in an aqueous phase and the number average diameter of the oil droplets is less than 200 nm, and then adding the emulsion to a shampoo base.

[0175] Conventional mixing methods can be carried out using a homogenizer, such as a turbine mixer.

[0176] [Method and Use] The composition according to the invention is preferably a cosmetic composition for keratinous fibers, preferably a cleansing composition for keratinous fibers, more preferably a cleansing composition for hair. More preferably, the composition according to the invention may be a shampoo or a hair conditioner.

[0177] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for treating keratinous fibers, preferably for washing hair, comprising the steps of applying a composition according to the present invention to the keratinous fibers and rinsing the treated keratinous fibers with a sufficient amount of water.

[0178] The present invention also relates to the use of the compositions according to the invention as cosmetics for keratinous fibers or in cosmetics for keratinous fibers, preferably conditioning products for hair, such as shampoos and hair conditioners.

[0179] Another aspect of the present invention may be the use of an O / W emulsion having oil droplets dispersed in an aqueous phase, the oil droplets comprising at least one non-silicone oil and having a number average diameter of less than 200 nm, in a silicone-free composition for keratin fibers, preferably hair, such as a shampoo or hair conditioner, The purpose is to maintain the transparency or translucency of the composition and to impart to the composition properties that provide better sensation to the hair, such as good moisturizing feel, smoothness, and combability. [Example]

[0180] The present invention will now be described in more detail by way of examples, which should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.

[0181] Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 Methods for preparing silicone-free shampoos of the present invention and comparative examples Example 1 The ingredients listed in Table 1-B below were diluted with water with gentle mixing to form an ultrafine emulsion in which the number-average diameter of the droplets was about 40 nm, i.e., the ultrafine O / W emulsion had a droplet size of less than 200 nm. The droplet size of the ultrafine emulsion was determined using a particle size analyzer (Vasco, Cordoun Technologies). At 25°C, the refractive index of the continuous aqueous phase was 1.33 and the viscosity was 0.89 cp.

[0182] Separately, the shampoo base ingredients listed in Table 1-A were mixed. The ultrafine emulsion was then added to the shampoo base composition with gentle mixing to obtain a silicone-free shampoo of the present invention. The resulting silicone-free shampoo of the present invention maintained a clear appearance.

[0183] (Comparative Example 1) The comparative shampoo was prepared by adding all the ingredients and water listed in Table 1-B to the shampoo base ingredients listed in Table 1-A to obtain the comparative silicone-free shampoo in the form of an O / W emulsion. The number average diameter of the droplets for the resulting comparative silicone-free shampoo was greater than 200 nm. The comparative silicone-free shampoo had a cloudy appearance.

[0184] [Table 1]

[0185] evaluation [Observation of foam volume] The silicone-free shampoo of the present invention or the comparative example was mixed with hardness-controlled deionized water (10 fH) in a blender (Oster Urban Blender 350W) at maximum speed for 1 minute. Lather volume was observed by measurement in a standard measuring cylinder.

[0186] [Sensory evaluation method] The same amount of silicone-free shampoo of the present invention or comparative example (0.4 g shampoo per gram of hair) was applied to a slightly bleached Japanese hair tress (2.7 g) for 10 cycles, and the hair was rubbed 10 times. The tress was then stroked 15 times with fingers for 30 seconds, and the tress was rinsed. The rinsing procedure was the same for the silicone-free shampoo of the present invention and comparative example.

[0187] After drying the tresses, the amount of lather, hair softness, and sensory characteristics of the tresses were observed by six panelists. Finger combability was assessed using a fine-toothed comb and the panelists' fingers. Sensory assessment was performed by touch and rubbing. Smoothness, moisturizing, and finger combability were rated from 1 to 5 (1 being poor and 5 being excellent).

[0188] [Wet combing force measurement] 3g of natural Japanese hair tresses were treated 12 times with 1.2g of the silicone-free shampoo of the present invention or the comparative example. The wet comb force of both hair samples was measured using a DIA-STRON MTT 175 instrument. Each hair sample was measured four times and an average value was calculated.

[0189] [Analysis of oil adhesion] Three hair tresses (1 g each) were treated 10 times with the silicone-free shampoo of the present invention or the comparative example, then air-dried for at least 3 hours. One gram of each hair tress was extracted, and the extracts were analyzed by HPLC-CAD to determine the amount of coconut oil remaining on the tresses. The extraction was performed by cutting the tresses into 0.5 cm pieces. A precise amount of 100 mg of hair fragments was mixed with 1 mL of hexane. The test tubes were agitated in a MiniBlock at room temperature for 3 hours. The resulting extracts were evaporated to dryness, redissolved in 300 μL of dichloromethane, and then inserted into the HPLC-CAD for analysis. Measurements were performed twice for each of the three hair tress samples.

[0190] The conditions for HPLA-CAD are as follows: HPLC type: Alliance 2695, WATERS+ detector, CAD: CORONA PLUS ESA, EUROSEP, and Column: Thermo hypersil and Symmetry Shield RP18 are connected in series.

[0191] result The results for oil droplet size, appearance, lather volume, sensory evaluation, wet comb force, and oil deposition are shown in Table 2.

[0192] [Table 2]

[0193] As shown in Table 2 above, the silicone-free shampoo of the present invention can maintain a transparent appearance while achieving a greater amount of foam as well as an improved feel (good moisturizing feel, smoothness, and combability) compared to the silicone-free shampoo of the comparative example.The fact that the silicone-free shampoo of the present invention has easy-to-comb properties is also supported by the experimental data of the wet combing force measurement method.Furthermore, it is demonstrated that a greater amount of hot water is deposited on hair when the silicone-free shampoo of the present invention is used.This also supports that the silicone-free shampoo of the present invention can provide good moisturizing feel, smoothness, and combability to hair.

[0194] As a result, it is clear that a silicone-free composition for keratin fibers in the form of an ultra-fine O / W emulsion is not only able to maintain a transparent appearance, but also gives the hair a better feel.

Claims

1. 1. A method for preparing a shampoo composition in the form of an O / W emulsion in which oil droplets are dispersed in an aqueous phase, the number average diameter of the oil droplets being less than 200 nm, the method comprising: - at least one non-silicone oil and a polyoxyethylenated unsaturated fatty alcohol and a polyoxyalkylenated C 8 ~C 24 a polyoxyethylated nonionic surfactant that is a sorbitol ester of a fatty acid; - diluting the mixture with water to form an O / W emulsion; - adding to the composition at least one additional agent selected from the group consisting of surfactants, conditioning agents, preservatives, and pH adjusters; wherein the composition is silicone-free, provided that the composition comprises:

1. A foaming composition in the form of a nanoemulsion or microemulsion, comprising: (a) at least one oil; (b) at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester; (c) at least one species of C 6～30 and an alkyl (poly) glucoside surfactant, (d) at least one amphoteric surfactant; (e) Water and a composition comprising:

1. A microemulsion comprising at least: (A) 0.5 to 70% by weight of an alkanolammonium salt of an alkyl sulfate and / or an alkyl polyalkylene glycol ether sulfate having the following structure, or a mixture thereof: 【Chemistry 1】 where: R 1 =C 8 -~C 20 -Carbohydrate radicals, p=an integer from 2 to 5, and p may be different from each m; R 2 =H, C 1 -~C 6 -alkyl, or C 2 -~C 4 -hydroxyalkyl, R 3 =H, C 1 -~C 6 -alkyl, or C 2 -~C 4 -hydroxyalkyl, R 4 =C 2 -~C 4 -hydroxyalkyl, m = an integer between 0 and 7; (B) 20 to 95 wt. % water; (C) 0.1 to 20 wt. % of one or more oil components; (D) 0.1 to 20 wt. % of one or more monohydrogen or polyhydrogen C 2 -~C 24 -alcohol; (E.1) 0.1 to 15% by weight of one or more UV filters; and / or (E.2) 0.1 to 3% by weight of one or more anti-dandruff substances, and The above percentages are based on the total composition. (Except when

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