Cosmetic oils, and cosmetics or topical skin preparations containing them.
Polyglyceryl isostearate forms an anisotropic liquid crystal gel, addressing adhesion and re-attachment issues in cosmetics by providing excellent adhesion and a smooth texture.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- JP · JP
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2020-10-08
- Publication Date
- 2026-03-27
AI Technical Summary
Existing cosmetic formulations face issues with insufficient adhesion to the skin and lips, leading to problems such as stiffness, re-attachment, and poor adhesiveness.
The use of polyglyceryl isostearate, which forms an anisotropic liquid crystal structure gel with a viscosity of 50,000 to 300,000 mPa·s at 30°C, providing excellent adhesion and anti-re-adhesion effects.
Polyglyceryl isostearate enhances adhesion to the skin and lips, ensuring a smooth and non-sticky application, while preventing re-attachment.
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Figure 0007836547000002 
Figure 0007836547000001
Abstract
Description
Technical Field
[0001] The present invention relates to an oil agent for cosmetics, and a cosmetic or a topical skin preparation containing the same.
Background Art
[0002] Conventionally, in skin care lotions, creams, lotions, etc., adhesiveness and moisturizing properties to the skin are required, in lipsticks, lip creams, lip glosses, lipsticks, etc., adhesiveness to the lips and anti-reattachment effects are required, and in mascaras, eyeshadows, etc., resistance to falling off is required. Various performances are required depending on the dosage form and application.
[0003] In Patent Document 1, an oily lip cosmetic that does not cause stringing and can maintain a smooth feeling by using a (styrene-isoprene) diblock copolymer has been proposed. However, this cosmetic has a problem that the stiffness derived from the polymer remains on the skin, and the adhesiveness is not sufficiently satisfactory.
[0004] In Patent Document 2, an oily cosmetic containing a polyhydric alcohol-modified silicone, an ester oil, a colorant, an oil agent, and triglyceride has been proposed. Although this cosmetic has no stiffness of the coating film and has an effect of good color retention and difficulty in color transfer, there are still problems regarding the adhesiveness to the skin and lips.
Prior Art Documents
Patent Documents
[0005]
Patent Document 1
Patent Document 2
Summary of the Invention
Problems to be Solved by the Invention
[0006] The problem that this invention aims to solve is to provide an oil-based cosmetic formulation that exhibits excellent adhesion to skin, such as the skin and lips. [Means for solving the problem]
[0007] As a result of diligent research to solve the above problems, the present inventors have found that polyglyceryl isostearate, characterized by forming an anisotropic liquid crystal structure gel when 95% by mass of polyglyceryl isostearate is mixed with 5% by mass of water, and having a gel viscosity of 50,000 to 300,000 mPa·s at 30°C, can solve the above problems, and have completed the present invention. [Effects of the Invention]
[0008] The polyglyceryl isostearate of the present invention, and cosmetics and topical skin preparations containing it, exhibit excellent adhesion to the skin. [Brief explanation of the drawing]
[0009] [Figure 1] Polarized light microscope images of the hydrated gels in Examples 1-6 and Comparative Examples 1-5 are shown. [Modes for carrying out the invention]
[0010] The present invention will be described in detail below. The scope of the present invention is not limited to these embodiments, and any modified versions that do not impair the spirit of the invention also belong to the present invention. The "~" indicating the range includes both an upper and lower limit.
[0011] The polyglycerin constituting polyglyceryl isostearate used in this invention is obtained by dehydrating and condensing glycerin, and its average degree of polymerization is preferably 3 to 20, more preferably 4 to 20, and most preferably 8 to 20. When the average degree of polymerization of polyglycerin is in the range of 3 to 20, it has good handling properties, and when used in cosmetics or topical skin preparations, it has excellent adhesion to the skin and also provides an anti-re-adhesion effect.
[0012] The average degree of polymerization (n) of polyglycerin as used here is a value calculated from the hydroxyl value, and is calculated from the following formulas 1 and 2. (Formula 1) Molecular weight=74n+18 (Equation 2) Hydroxyl value = 56110(n+2) / Molecular weight The hydroxyl value is a numerical index that indicates the magnitude of the number of hydroxyl groups contained in an esterified product. It refers to the number of milligrams of potassium hydroxide required to neutralize the acetic acid necessary to acetylate the free hydroxyl groups contained in 1 gram of esterified product, and is calculated in accordance with the "Standard Test Methods for Analysis of Fats and Oils, 2013 Edition," compiled by the Japan Oil Chemists' Society.
[0013] The hydroxyl value of the polyglycerin used in this invention is preferably 820 to 880, as this provides excellent adhesion to the skin.
[0014] The polyglycerin used in this invention preferably contains 20% or less of glycerin polymers with a degree of polymerization of 2 or less, more preferably 15% or less, and even more preferably 1% or less. When the content of glycerin polymers with a degree of polymerization of 2 or less is 20% or less, it does not become sticky when used in cosmetics or topical skin preparations, and an excellent anti-re-adhesion effect is obtained.
[0015] The esterification rate of polyglyceryl isostearate used in this invention is preferably 8 to 23% in order to obtain excellent adhesion to the skin.
[0016] The esterification rate of polyglyceryl isostearate, as used here, is calculated from the following formula 3. (Equation 3) Esterification rate = {Number of moles of isostearic acid added / (n+2)} × 100
[0017] The polyglyceryl isostearate of the present invention can be produced by carrying out an esterification reaction according to a conventional method. Esterification can be carried out at 50 to 260°C using catalysts such as p-toluenesulfonic acid, sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, methanesulfonic acid, boron trifluoride diethyl ether complex, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, etc., or without a catalyst, and with or without a solvent.
[0018] The polyglyceryl isostearate of the present invention forms a gel of anisotropic liquid crystal when 5% by mass of water is added to and mixed with 95% by mass of polyglyceryl isostearate, and has a viscosity at 30 °C of 50,000 to 300,000 mPa·s, preferably 55,000 to 300,000 mPa·s. When it does not take the gel structure of anisotropic liquid crystal, it cannot form a strong hydration film when contacting with moisture, and when used in cosmetics or external skin preparations, the adhesion to the skin is poor and the effect of preventing reattachment is not exhibited. Whether it has an anisotropic liquid crystal structure or not can be confirmed by, for example, observation with a polarized microscope.
[0019] When the viscosity at 30 °C is less than 50,000 mPa·s, the adhesion to the skin is poor when used in cosmetics or external skin preparations, and the effect of preventing reattachment is not exhibited. When it is higher than 300,000 mPa·s, stickiness occurs when used in cosmetics or external skin preparations. The viscosity mentioned here refers to the value obtained under the measurement conditions shown in the examples.
[0020] As uses of the cosmetic oil agent according to the present invention, there may be mentioned hair cosmetics, base cosmetics, makeup cosmetics, external skin preparations, and the like. The cosmetics and external skin preparations of the present invention can be produced according to ordinary methods.
[0021] Explaining in more detail the uses of the cosmetic oil agent according to the present invention, as hair cosmetics, there may be preferably mentioned oil shampoos, cream shampoos, conditioning shampoos, dandruff shampoos, hair color shampoos, rinse-in-one shampoos, rinses, treatments, hair packs, hair foams, hair mousses, hair waxes, hair gels, hair creams, hair color pretreatments, hair color aftertreatments, perm pretreatments, perm aftertreatments, and the like.
[0022] Examples of base cosmetics include emollient cream, nourishing cream, moisturizing cream, vanishing cream, moisture cream, night cream, massage cream, cleansing cream, makeup cream, base cream, pre-makeup cream, sunscreen cream, suntan cream, hair removal cream, deodorant cream, shaving cream, cutin-softening cream, and the like.
[0023] Examples of makeup cosmetics include face powder, foundation, lipsticks, lip gloss, blushes, eyeliners, mascaras, eyeshadows, eyebrow pencils, eyebrows, nail enamels, enamel removers, nail treatments, and the like.
[0024] Examples of external skin preparations include ointments, liquids, aerosols, patches, poultices, liniments, and the like.
[0025] The cosmetics of the present invention may be blended with water and additive components usually blended in cosmetics, such as oily bases, surfactants, alcohols, moisturizers, polymers, thickeners, gelling agents, antioxidants, preservatives, bactericides, chelating agents, pH adjusters, acids, alkalis, ultraviolet absorbers, solvents, keratolytic agents, antiperspirants, reducing agents, oxidizing agents, polymer powders, α-hydroxy acids and their derivatives, vitamins and their derivatives, saccharides and their derivatives, enzymes, nucleic acids, inorganic powders, fragrances, pigments, and the like, as necessary.
[0026] Examples of these additive components include, as oily bases, cetanol, myristyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidodecanol, behenyl alcohol, jojoba alcohol, chymyl alcohol, batyl alcohol, hexyldecanol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-octyldodecanol, and dimergol, among others. Furthermore, fatty acids such as lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, behenic acid, undecylenic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid, palmitoleic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, erucic acid, docosahexaenoic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, isohexadecanoic acid, anteisohenicosanic acid, long-chain branched fatty acids, dimer acids, hydrogenated dimer acids, and other fatty acids, as well as metal soaps such as their aluminum salts, calcium salts, magnesium salts, zinc salts, potassium salts, and nitrogen-containing derivatives such as amides; hydrocarbons such as liquid paraffin, heavy liquid isoparaffin, α-olefin oligomer, polyisobutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, polybutene, squalane, squalene, petrolatum, and solid paraffin; candelilla wax, carnauba wax, rice wax, wood wax, beeswax, montane wax Waxes such as camphor, ozokerite, ceresin, paraffin wax, microcrystalline wax, petrolatum, Fischer-Tropsch wax, polyethylene wax, ethylene-propylene copolymer; coconut oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, safflower oil, olive oil, castor oil, avocado oil, sesame oil, tea oil, evening primrose oil, wheat germ oil, macadamia nut oil, hazelnut oil, kukui nut oil, rose Vegetable oils such as hip oil, meadowfoam oil, peach oil, tea tree oil, peppermint oil, corn oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, linseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rice bran oil, cocoa butter, shea butter, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated castor oil, jojoba oil, hydrogenated jojoba oil; animal fats such as beef tallow, milk fat, horse fat, egg yolk oil, mink oil, turtle oil; animal waxes such as whale wax, lanolin, orange roughy oil;Lanolin compounds such as liquid lanolin, reduced lanolin, adsorbed and purified lanolin, lanolin acetate, liquid lanolin acetate, hydroxylanolin, polyoxyethylene lanolin, lanolin fatty acid, hard lanolin fatty acid, lanolin alcohol, lanolin acetate alcohol, and (cetyl lanolyl) acetate; Phospholipids such as phosphatidylcholine, phosphatidylethanolamine, phosphatidylinositol, sphingomyelin, phosphatidic acid, and lysolecithin; and hydrogenated lanolin compounds. Phospholipid derivatives such as soybean phospholipid and hydrogenated egg yolk phospholipid; sterols such as cholesterol, dihydrocholesterol, lanosterol, dihydrolanosterol, and phytosterol; cholesteryl acetate, cholesteryl nonanoate, cholesteryl stearate, cholesteryl isostearate, cholesteryl oleate, N-lauroyl-L-glutamic acid di(cholesteryl / behenyl / octyldodecyl), N-lauroyl-L-glutamic acid di( Cholesteryl / octyldodecyl), N-lauroyl-L-glutamic acid di(phytosteryl / behenyl / octyldodecyl), N-lauroyl-L-glutamic acid di(phytosteryl / octyldodecyl), 12-hydroxystearate cholesteryl, macadamia nut oil fatty acid cholesteryl, macadamia nut oil fatty acid phytosteryl, isostearate phytosteryl, soft lanolin fatty acid cholesteryl, hard lanolin fatty acid cholesteryl, long chain Sterol esters such as branched fatty acid cholesteryl and long-chain α-hydroxy fatty acid cholesteryl; lower alcohol fatty acid esters such as ethyl oleate, avocado oil fatty acid ethyl, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, octyl palmitate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl lanolin fatty acid, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, dioctyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, and dioctyl succinate;Octyldodecyl myristate, hexyldecyl myristate, octyldodecyl isostearate, octyldodecyl palmitate, cetyl octanoate, hexyldecyl octanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, octyldodecyl neodecanoate, oleyl oleate, octyldodecyl oleate, octyldodecyl ricinoleate, octyldodecyl lanolinate Higher alcohol fatty acid esters such as syl, hexyldecyl dimethyloctanoate, octyldodecyl erucate, hydrogenated castor oil isostearate; oxy acid esters such as cetyl lactate, diisostearyl malate, hydrogenated castor oil monoisostearate; glyceryl trioctanoate, glyceryl trioleate, glyceryl triisostearate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, caprylic / capric / myristic / stearic triglyceride, hydrogenated rosin glyceryl (hydrogenated ester gum), neopentanoate Polyhydric alcohol fatty acid esters such as polyglycol, 2-butyl-2-ethyl-1,3-propanediol dioctanoate, propylene glycol dioleate, pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate, hydrogenated rosin pentaerythrityl, (hydroxystearate / stearate / rosinate) dipentaerythrityl, diglyceryl diisostearate, polyglyceryl tetraisostearate, polyglyceryl-10 nonaisostearate, and polyglyceryl-8 deca(erucic acid / isostearate / ricinoleic acid); dimer dilinoleate Derivatives of dimer acids or dimer ols such as sopropyl dimer dilinoleate, diisostearyl dimer dilinoleate, di(isostearyl / phytosteryl) dimer dilinoleate, (phytosteryl / behenyl) dimer dilinoleate, (phytosteryl / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl) dimer dilinoleate, dimer dilinoleyl diisostearate, hydrogenated rosin condensate of dimer dilinoleate, hydrogenated castor oil of dimer dilinoleate, and hydroxyalkyl dimer dilinoleyl ether;Examples include fatty acid alkanolamides such as coconut oil fatty acid monoethanolamide, coconut oil fatty acid diethanolamide, lauric acid monoethanolamide, lauric acid diethanolamide, palmitic acid monoethanolamide, and palmitic acid diethanolamide; low viscosity dimethylpolysiloxane, high viscosity dimethylpolysiloxane, cyclic dimethylsiloxane (decamethylcyclopentasiloxane), methylphenylpolysiloxane, diphenylpolysiloxane, silicone resins, silicone rubber, amino-modified polysiloxanes such as aminopropyl dimethicone and amodimethicone, cationic-modified polysiloxane, polyether-modified polysiloxane, polyglycerin-modified polysiloxane, sugar-modified polysiloxane, alkyl-modified polysiloxane, fatty acid-modified polysiloxane, and fluorine-based oils such as perfluorodecane, perfluorooctane, and perfluoropolyether.
[0027] Examples of surfactants include anionic surfactants such as fatty acid salts, alkyl sulfate salts, alkylbenzene sulfonates, polyoxyethylene alkyl sulfates, polyoxyethylene fatty acid amine sulfates, acyl N-methyl taurate salts, alkyl phosphate salts, alkyl ether phosphate salts, and N-acyl amino acid salts; nonionic surfactants such as polyoxyethylene alkyl ethers, polyoxyethylene alkylphenyl ethers, polyoxyethylene alkyl ether sorbitan fatty acid partial esters, polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil, polyhydric alcohol fatty acid partial esters, polyglycerin fatty acid esters, polyoxyethylene fatty acid esters, alkyldimethylamine oxides, alkyl polyglycosides, and alkyl glucosides; and alkyltrimethylammonium Examples of cationic surfactants include loride, alkyltrimethylammonium bromide, dialkyldimethylammonium chloride, long-chain branched fatty acid (12-31) aminopropylethyldimethylammonium ethyl sulfate, lanolin fatty acid aminopropylethyldimethylammonium ethyl sulfate, short-chain polyoxyethylene alkylamines and their salts or quaternary salts, and benzalkonium chloride; fatty acid amidoamines and their salts; amphoteric surfactants such as alkyldimethylaminoacetic acid betaine, alkylamidedimethylaminoacetic acid betaine, and 2-alkyl-N-carboxy-N-hydroxyimidazolinium betaine; and polymeric surfactants such as polyvinyl alcohol, sodium alginate, starch derivatives, tragacanth gum, and acrylic acid / alkyl methacrylate copolymers.
[0028] Examples of alcohols include methanol, ethanol, n-propyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, n-butyl alcohol, isobutyl alcohol, and pentyl alcohol.
[0029] As humectants, propylene glycol, glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, DPG, polyhydric alcohols such as 1,2-alkanediol, 1,3-butanediol, and 3-methyl-1,3-butanediol, sodium hyaluronate, citrate, urea, lactic acid bacteria culture solution, yeast extract, eggshell membrane protein, bovine submandibular gland mucin, hypotaurine, sesamin glycosides, betaine, chondroitin sulfate, glutathione, polyethylene glycol, sorbitol, carbitol, sodium lactate, sodium 2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylate, albumin, trimethylglycine; collagen, gelatin, elastin, collagen-degraded peptides, elastin-degraded peptides Examples of these include protein peptides and their derivatives such as keratin-degrading peptides, conchiolin-degrading peptides, silk-degrading peptides, soy-degrading peptides, wheat-degrading peptides, casein-degrading peptides, and acylated peptides; amino acids such as arginine, serine, glycine, threonine, glutamic acid, cysteine, methionine, leucine, and tryptophan; animal and plant extracts such as placental extract, aerlastin, collagen, aloe extract, witch hazel water, loofah water, chamomile extract, licorice extract, and comfrey extract; and ceramides such as natural ceramides (types 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6), hydroxyceramides, pseudoceramides, and sphingoglycolipids.
[0030] Polymers, thickeners, and gelling agents include guar gum, locust bean gum, queen seed gum, carrageenan, galactan, gum arabic, tara gum, tamarind, fercerelan, karaya gum, okra gum, caramel gum, tragacanth gum, pectin, alginic acid and its salts, mannan, starch, xanthan gum, dextran, succinoglucan, curdlan, hyaluronic acid and its salts, xanthan gum, pullulan, gellan gum, chitin, chitosan, agar, chondroitin sulfate, casein, gelatin, albumin, methylcellulose, ethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose and its salts, methylhydroxypropylcellulose, cationized cellulose, soluble starch, carboxymethyl starch, methyl starch, propylene glycol alginate, polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinylpyrrolidone. Examples include polyoxyethylene-polyoxypropylene copolymers, partially saponified polyvinyl acetate, maleic acid copolymers, polyacrylic acid ester copolymers, carboxyvinyl polymers, polyacrylic acid and its salts, acrylic acid / methacrylic acid ester copolymers, amphoteric methacrylic acid ester copolymers, acrylic acid / alkyl methacrylate copolymers, diallyldimethylammonium chloride / acrylamide copolymers, acrylic acid / diallyldimethylammonium chloride / acrylamide copolymers, acrylic acid / cationized methacrylic acid ester copolymers, acrylic acid / cationized methacrylate amide copolymers, choline chloride methacrylate ester polymers, cationized guar gum, nitrocellulose; 12-hydroxystearic acid and its salts, dextrin fatty acid esters, anhydrous silicic acid, metal soaps, organically modified clay minerals, sucrose fatty acid esters, fructooligosaccharide fatty acid esters, and the like.
[0031] Examples of antioxidants include BHT, BHA, propyl gallate, vitamin E (tocopherol) and / or its derivatives, vitamin C (ascorbic acid) and / or its derivatives, sulfites, bisulfites, etc. Examples of preservatives include phenols, phenoxyethanol, hydroxybenzoic acid and its salts, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, halogenated bisphenols, acid amides, quaternary ammonium salts, etc. Examples of disinfectants include trichlorocarbanide, zinc pyrithione, benzalkonium chloride, benzethonium chloride, chlorhexidine, halocarban, hinokitiol, phenol, isopropylphenol, photosensitizers, etc. Examples of chelating agents include edetates, phytic acid, phosphonic acids, sodium oxalate, polyamino acids, etc. Examples of pH adjusters, acids, and alkalis include citric acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid, succinic acid, acetic acid, hydrochloric acid, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, isopropanolamine, arginine, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonia water, and guanidine carbonate.
[0032] Examples of preservatives include isobutylparaben, isopropylparaben, ethylparaben, methylparaben, butylparaben, phenoxyethanol, and benzyl alcohol.
[0033] Examples of disinfectants include organic acids such as benzoic acid and dehydroacetic acid; alcohols such as phenylethanol and phenoxyisopropyl alcohol; and p-chlorophenol, chlorphenesin, chlorhexidine, cetrimonium chloride, benzalkonium chloride, and zinc oxide.
[0034] Examples of chelating agents include EDTA, EDTA-2Na, caprylhydroxamic acid, citric acid, sodium citrate, gluconolactone, cyclodextrin, hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin, and phytic acid.
[0035] Examples of pH adjusters, acids, and alkalis include organic acids such as formic acid, acetic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, citric acid, and glycolic acid, as well as inorganic acids or their salts, and alkalis such as triethanolamine.
[0036] Examples of UV absorbers include benzophenone derivatives such as oxybenzone, para-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, para-methoxycinnamate derivatives, salicylic acid derivatives, ferulic acid and its derivatives, derivatives such as urocanic acid and ethyl urocanate, butyl methoxybenzoylmethane, octyl triazone, 2-(2'-hydroxy-5'-methylphenyl)benzotriazole, methyl anthranilate, rutin and its derivatives. Examples of whitening agents include ascorbic acid derivatives such as arbutin, ascorbic acid, ascorbic acid glucoside, ascorbic acid phosphate salts, ascorbic acid branched fatty acid esters, and alkyl ascorbic acid ethers, as well as plant extracts such as kojic acid, glutathione, ellagic acid, placenta extract, oryzanol, butylresorcinol, and chamomile extract.
[0037] Examples of solvents include lower alcohols such as ethanol and 2-propanol; acetone, ethyl acetate, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, and toluene.
[0038] Examples of exfoliating and dissolving agents include salicylic acid, sulfur, resorcinol, selenium sulfide, and pyridoxine. Examples of antipruritic agents include diphenhydramine hydrochloride, chlorpheniramine maleate, and camphor. Examples of anti-inflammatory agents include glycyrrhizic acid and its derivatives, guaiazulene, hydrocortisone acetate, and prednisolone. Examples of antiperspirants include aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum chloride, zinc oxide, and zinc paraphenolsulfonate. Examples of cooling agents include menthol and methyl salicylate. Examples of antihistamines include diphenhydramine hydrochloride, chlorpheniramine maleate, and glycyrrhetinic acid derivatives. Examples of astringent agents include citric acid, tartaric acid, lactic acid, potassium aluminum sulfate, and tannic acid. Examples of stimulants include cantharis tincture, ginger tincture, capsicum tincture, and benzyl nicotinate. Examples of hair growth agents and blood circulation promoters include plant extracts and tinctures such as Swertia japonica extract, capsicum tincture, ginger tincture, and cantharis tincture; cepharanthine, vitamin E and its derivatives, γ-oryzanol, nicotinic acid and derivatives such as benzyl nicotinate ester, allantoin, photosensitizer 301, photosensitizer 401, pentadecanoic acid monoglyceride, flavanonol derivatives, and minoxidil.
[0039] Examples of antiperspirants include (adipic acid / neopentyl glycol) crosspolymer, aluminum chlorohydrate, and hop cone extract.
[0040] Examples of reducing agents include thioglycolic acid, cysteine, and cysteamine. Examples of oxidizing agents include hydrogen peroxide, ammonium persulfate, and sodium bromate.
[0041] Examples of polymer powders include starch, nylon powder, polyethylene powder, polymethyl methacrylate, polyethylene terephthalate / polymethyl methacrylate laminated powder, polyethylene terephthalate / aluminum / epoxy laminated powder, and surface-treated powders thereof.
[0042] Examples of α-hydroxy acids and their derivatives include lactic acid, glycolic acid, fruit acids, hydroxycapric acid, long-chain α-hydroxy fatty acids, and long-chain α-hydroxy fatty acid cholesteryl.
[0043] Examples of vitamins and their derivatives include vitamins such as vitamin A, B vitamins, vitamin D, vitamin E, pantothenic acid, and biotin; and vitamin derivatives such as ascorbyl stearate, ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl dipalmitate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbate, tocopherol nicotinate, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol linoleate, and tocopherol ferulate.
[0044] Examples of sugars and their derivatives include cyclodextrin, β-glucan, chitin, chitosan, glucose, trehalose, pectin, arabinogalactan, dextrin, dextran, and glycosylethyl methacrylate polymers or copolymers. Examples of organic acids include acetic acid, propionic acid, citric acid, abietic acid, and tartaric acid.
[0045] Examples of enzymes include lysozyme chloride, papain, pancreatin, and proteases. Examples of nucleic acids include adenosine triphosphate disodium. Examples of hormones include estradiol, estrone, ethinylestradiol, cortisone, hydrocortisone, and prednisolone.
[0046] Examples of inorganic powders include mica, talc, kaolin, montmorillonite, sericite, kaolinite, calcium carbonate, red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, black iron oxide, ultramarine, Prussian blue, carbon black, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, alumina, silica, fuzzy silica (ultrafine particle anhydrous silicic acid), titanium mica, fish scale foil, boron nitride, photochromic pigments, synthetic fluorphlogopite, fine particle composite powders, gold, aluminum, and other inorganic powders, as well as powders of these materials that have been hydrophobized by surface treatment.
[0047] Examples of fragrances include limonene, linalool, citral, β-ionone, benzyl benzoate, indole, eugenol, aurantiol, geraniol, lyral, damascone, benzyl acetate, jasmine lactone, galac solid, and essential oils.
[0048] Examples of pigments include natural pigments such as β-carotene, calthamine, rutin, cochineal, and chlorophyll; organic pigments such as legally approved pigments, basic dyes, and lakes; and oxidative dye intermediates such as p-phenylenediamine, toluene-2,5-diamine, m-phenylenediamine, o-, m-, or p-aminophenol, and resorcinol.
[0049] Other known ingredients used in cosmetics, pharmaceuticals, foods, etc., may be appropriately incorporated as long as they do not impair the effects of the present invention. [Examples]
[0050] The present invention will be described more specifically below with reference to examples and comparative examples, but the scope of the present invention is not limited to these examples.
[0051] <Synthesis Example 1> 224.5 g of isostearic acid and 655.3 g of polyglycerin (10% hydrated, hydroxyl value 845) were placed in a reaction vessel, 0.8 g of sodium hydroxide was added, and the reaction was carried out at 200-240°C for 3 hours under a nitrogen atmosphere to obtain 793.1 g of polyglyceryl isostearate with an esterification rate of 8.9%.
[0052] <Synthesis Example 2> 239.0 g of isostearic acid and 640.1 g of polyglycerin (10% hydrated, hydroxyl value 845) were placed in a reaction vessel, 0.8 g of sodium hydroxide was added, and the reaction was carried out at 200-240°C for 3 hours under a nitrogen atmosphere to obtain 790.5 g of polyglyceryl isostearate with an esterification rate of 9.7%.
[0053] <Synthesis Example 3> 348.4 g of isostearic acid and 526.3 g of polyglycerin (10% hydrated, hydroxyl value 845) were placed in a reaction vessel, 0.4 g of sodium hydroxide was added, and the reaction was carried out at 200-240°C for 3 hours under a nitrogen atmosphere to obtain 797.2 g of polyglyceryl isostearate with an esterification rate of 17.2%.
[0054] <Synthesis Example 4> 363.6 g of isostearic acid and 510.5 g of polyglycerin (10% hydrated, hydroxyl value 845) were placed in a reaction vessel, 0.4 g of sodium hydroxide was added, and the reaction was carried out at 200-240°C for 3 hours under a nitrogen atmosphere to obtain 791.7 g of polyglyceryl isostearate with an esterification rate of 18.5%.
[0055] <Synthesis Example 5> 379.9 g of isostearic acid and 493.5 g of polyglycerin (10% hydrated, hydroxyl value 845) were placed in a reaction vessel, 0.4 g of sodium hydroxide was added, and the reaction was carried out at 200-240°C for 3 hours under a nitrogen atmosphere to obtain 791.4 g of polyglyceryl isostearate with an esterification rate of 20.0%.
[0056] <Synthesis Example 6> 406.8g of isostearic acid and 465.5g of polyglycerin (10% hydrated, hydroxyl value 845) were placed in a reaction vessel, 0.4g of sodium hydroxide was added, and the reaction was carried out at 200-240°C for 3 hours under a nitrogen atmosphere to obtain 791.2g of polyglyceryl isostearate with an esterification rate of 22.7%.
[0057] <Synthesis Example 7> 180.7 g of isostearic acid and 700.8 g of polyglycerin (10% hydrated, hydroxyl value 845) were placed in a reaction vessel, 0.8 g of sodium hydroxide was added, and the reaction was carried out at 200-240°C for 3 hours under a nitrogen atmosphere to obtain 791.8 g of polyglyceryl isostearate with an esterification rate of 6.7%.
[0058] <Synthesis Example 8> 249.8 g of isostearic acid and 629.0 g of polyglycerin (10% hydrated, hydroxyl value 890) were placed in a reaction vessel, 0.8 g of sodium hydroxide was added, and the reaction was carried out at 200-240°C for 3 hours under a nitrogen atmosphere to obtain 792.8 g of polyglyceryl isostearate with an esterification rate of 9.8%.
[0059] <Synthesis Example 9> 344.1 g of isostearic acid and 530.8 g of polyglycerin (10% hydrated, hydroxyl value 890) were placed in a reaction vessel, 0.8 g of sodium hydroxide was added, and the reaction was carried out at 200-240°C for 3 hours under a nitrogen atmosphere to obtain 792.5 g of polyglyceryl isostearate with an esterification rate of 16.0%.
[0060] <Synthesis Example 10> 459.8g of isostearic acid and 410.4g of polyglycerin (10% hydrated, hydroxyl value 845) were placed in a reaction vessel, 0.4g of sodium hydroxide was added, and the reaction was carried out at 200-240°C for 3 hours under a nitrogen atmosphere to obtain 776.4g of polyglyceryl isostearate with an esterification rate of 29.1%.
[0061] <Synthesis Example 11> 502.1g of isostearic acid and 366.4g of polyglycerin (10% hydrated, hydroxyl value 845) were placed in a reaction vessel, 0.4g of sodium hydroxide was added, and the reaction was carried out at 200-240°C for 3 hours under a nitrogen atmosphere to obtain 788.2g of polyglyceryl isostearate with an esterification rate of 35.6%.
[0062] <Example 1> A hydrated gel was formed by adding 5% by mass of water to 95% by mass of polyglyceryl isostearate from Synthesis Example 1. The liquid crystal structure of the hydrated gel was determined to be isotropic or anisotropic by observation with a polarizing microscope under crossed nicols. Viscosity was measured using a dynamic viscoelasticity measuring device (TA Instruments, Rheometer HR-2) with a 40 mm diameter parallel plate as the measurement fixture, at a measurement temperature of 30°C, a plate gap of 500 μm, and a plate rotation speed of 0.3 rad / s. The value taken was taken 20 seconds after the start of measurement. In addition, the adhesion to skin was evaluated using polyglyceryl isostearate from Synthesis Example 1. The results are shown in Table 1. <Examples 2-6, Comparative Examples 1-5> The procedure was the same as in Example 1, except that polyglyceryl isostearate from Synthesis Examples 2-11 was used.
[0063] [Skin adhesion] A sensory evaluation was conducted by 20 panelists. The adhesion to the skin of each aqueous solution, prepared by adding 90% water to 10% polyglyceryl isostearate, was evaluated on a scale of 1 to 5 points. The average score of the 20 panelists was calculated and evaluated according to the following criteria. A higher score indicates better skin adhesion. The results are shown in Table 1. ○: 4.0 points or higher △: 3.0 points or higher, less than 4.0 points ×: Less than 3.0 points
[0064] [Table 1]
[0065] Examples 1 to 6, which used polyglyceryl isostearate of the present invention, all exhibited excellent adhesion to the skin. On the other hand, Comparative Examples 1 and 2, which used polyglyceryl isostearate that formed a hydrated gel with an anisotropic liquid crystal structure but a viscosity of less than 50,000 mPa·s at 30°C, and Comparative Examples 3 to 5, which used polyglyceryl isostearate that formed a hydrated gel with an isotropic liquid crystal structure, exhibited poor adhesion to the skin.
[0066] Formulation Example 1: Moisture Gel Glycerin 10.00 Diglycerin 7.00 BG 5.00 10% K(85%) hydroxide 3.00 Carbomer 0.45 (Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate) Crosspolymer 0.30 Polyglyceryl isostearate 0.10 in Synthesis Example 5 Purified water 74.15
[0067] All components were heated to 80°C and uniformly dissolved.
[0068] The moisturizing gel obtained in Formulation Example 1 was non-sticky and non-greasy, and had good adhesion to the skin.
[0069] Formulation Example 2: Cream Foundation Phase A Macadamia nut oil polyglyceryl-6 esters behenate 1.00 Polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate 1.40 Polyglyceryl isostearate 0.50 (Synthesis Example 5) Cyclopentasiloxane 10.90 Isotridecyl isononanoate 9.00 Disteardimonium hectorite 2.00 B phase Pigment (silicone treated) 8.30 C phase Diglycerin 3.00 BG 8.00 Sodium chloride 0.50 Purified water 55.40
[0070] Phase A was heated to 60°C and uniformly dissolved. Then, Phase B was added to Phase A and dispersed, and Phase C, which had been heated to 60°C and homogenized, was added and emulsified.
[0071] The cream foundation obtained in formulation example 2 was non-greasy, had a refreshing feel, and adhered well to the skin.
[0072] Formulation Example 3: Liquid Rouge Hydrogenated polyisobutene 16.70 Macadamia nut oil polyglyceryl-6 esters behenate 8.00 Diisostearyl malate 25.00 Microcrystalline wax 17.00 Squalane 15.00 Polyglyceryl isostearate in synthesis example 5: 10.00 Dextrin palmitate 5.00 Pigment (silicone treated) 1.60 Titanium dioxide mica 1.70
[0073] All ingredients were heated and dissolved uniformly.
[0074] The liquid rouge obtained in formulation example 3 had excellent adhesion to the lips, good re-adhesion prevention, and a smooth, easy-to-apply texture.
Claims
1. A cosmetic oil comprising polyglyceryl isostearate, wherein 95% by mass of polyglyceryl isostearate, having a hydroxyl value of 820 to 880 and an esterification rate of 8 to 23%, is mixed with 5% by mass of water to form a gel that takes on an anisotropic liquid crystal structure, and the viscosity of the gel at 30°C is 50,000 to 300,000 mPa·s.
2. A cosmetic or external skin preparation containing the cosmetic oil described in claim 1.
Citation Information
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