Personal care composition, method of using the composition, and improvement of its deposition effect
The combination of glycolipid biosurfactants and hydrophilic cationic or pseudo-cationic active ingredients in a rinse-off personal care composition addresses the retention challenge, enhancing deposition and reducing irritation, thus improving cleansing and conditioning efficacy.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- JP · JP
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- BASF SE
- Filing Date
- 2021-03-11
- Publication Date
- 2026-04-14
AI Technical Summary
Existing personal care compositions with hydrophilic or hydrophilic cationic active ingredients face challenges in retaining these ingredients on the skin and hair due to high water solubility, leading to increased usage amounts and skin irritation, while existing deposition technologies are inadequate for hydrophilic compounds.
A personal care composition combining glycolipid biosurfactants, preferably sophorolipids, with hydrophilic cationic or pseudo-cationic active ingredients enhances deposition on keratinous substances by using a rinse-off formulation.
The composition effectively promotes the deposition of hydrophilic cationic or pseudo-cationic active ingredients on keratinous substances, reducing the amount needed and minimizing skin irritation, while providing improved cleansing and conditioning effects.
Smart Images

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Abstract
Description
[Technical Field]
[0001] The present invention relates to a personal care composition, a method of using the composition, and a method for promoting or enhancing the deposition effect when the composition is applied to a keratin substance. [Background technology]
[0002] Many personal care or cosmetic compositions contain active substances that are applied to the skin and / or hair in rinse-off formulations. Rinse-off formulations are washed away again from the skin and / or hair after use, but the active substances should remain on the skin and / or hair. The active substances are typically mixed directly into the composition, such as shampoos, shower gels, facial cleansers, or solid or liquid soaps. This procedure has the disadvantage that, in most cases, only a small amount of the active substance remains on the skin during use, where it can exert its effects. The majority of the active substance is usually washed away again with the rinse-off formulation. This results in a large amount of active substance having to be incorporated into the formulation to achieve the desired effect, increasing costs. However, when a sufficiently large amount of active substance is used in a rinse-off formulation, undesirable skin irritation is often observed when the formulation is used. Here, the active ingredients are cationic active ingredients often used in personal care formulations, such as hexamidine diisethionate, a novel anti-dandruff agent used in hair cosmetic formulations, and another example being the alkaloid quinine or its salts, which are also claimed to refresh the scalp and prevent hair loss. However, it is more difficult to retain such types of active ingredients that are hydrophilic or have relatively high water solubility in formulations and to effectively exert their functional benefits on the skin and / or hair.
[0003] Many attempts have been made to improve deposition effects through the development of coacervation technology, particularly in rinse-off products. However, this technology has been well developed for hydrophobic active ingredients. In recent years, there has been a growing demand for personal care compositions, especially rinse-off personal care compositions, that can reduce the amount of active ingredients used to avoid skin irritation, thereby lowering costs, while also enabling improved deposition effects of active ingredients that are hydrophilic or even have relatively good water solubility, providing desirable benefits during use.
[0004] Therefore, an object of the present invention is to address the growing market demand for cosmetic cleansing and conditioning compositions that provide improved deposition of active ingredients, particularly hydrophilic cations or pseudo-cationic active ingredients, and that also provide good cleansing and conditioning effects on the skin and / or hair.
[0005] Sophorolipids are all-natural, consumer-friendly fermentation surfactants produced by several yeast species, such as Starmerella. The hydrophilic portion of the biosurfactant molecule is a disaccharide (i.e., sophorose), and the hydrophobic portion is an omega- or (omega-1)-hydroxy fatty acid bonded to the sophorose via a glycosidic bond. The fatty acid chain most commonly contains 16 and 18 carbon atoms, can be unsaturated, and can be lactonized to form a disaccharide. As biosurfactants, sophorolipids can serve as environmentally friendly surfactants widely used in detergents and cosmetic formulations. EP0550276A1 describes a personal care composition containing a mild, foaming glycolipid for use with a co-surfactant (e.g., SLS). WO1998016192A1 discloses a bactericidal composition suitable for washing fruits, vegetables, skin, and hair. This composition may comprise a mixture of anionic surfactants and sophorolipid biosurfactants. U.S. Patent Application Publication 2014 / 0349902 discloses a hair and skin cleansing composition comprising water, at least one biosurfactant, and at least one fatty acid for obtaining improved skincare benefits and foaming properties.
[0006] In this application, it has been unexpectedly discovered that a personal care composition containing a glycolipid biosurfactant and a hydrophilic cation or pseudocation active ingredient can enhance and / or promote the deposition effect of the hydrophilic cation or pseudocation active ingredient on keratinic substances, and more specifically, this personal care composition is a rinse-off composition. [Prior art documents] [Patent Documents]
[0007] [Patent Document 1] EP0550276A1 [Patent Document 2] WO1998016192A1 [Patent Document 3] U.S. Patent Application Publication No. 2014 / 0349902 [Overview of the project]
[0008] Therefore, the subject of the present invention is, a) Glycolipid biosurfactants, and b) Hydrophilic cation or pseudo-cationic active compound A personal care composition comprising at least the following: This is a personal care composition in which the glycolipid is preferably a sophorolipid.
[0009] Preferably, 10 to 90% by weight of the sophorolipid biosurfactant is in the acidic form.
[0010] Preferably, the hydrophilic cation or pseudocationic active compound is a compound containing at least one basic or quaternary nitrogen atom, and more preferably, the hydrophilic cation or pseudocationic active compound includes amidine compounds, basic amino acids, biguandine compounds, alkaloid compounds, imidazole antimicrobial compounds, and cationic proteins and / or protein hydrolysates.
[0011] In a further embodiment, the present invention provides a personal care composition and a method for enhancing or promoting the deposition of hydrophilic cations or pseudo-cationic active compounds onto a keratinous substance, the method comprising at least one step of applying an effective amount of the personal care composition to the keratinous substance, particularly during or after rinsing.
[0012] In another embodiment, the present invention also relates to the use of the personal care composition to enhance or promote the deposition of hydrophilic cations or pseudo-cationic active compounds onto keratinous materials. In yet another embodiment, the present invention relates to the use of such a personal care composition to simultaneously care for and cleanse keratinous materials, such as hair and / or skin.
[0013] Surprisingly, it has been discovered that, unexpectedly, the above object is achieved by a personal care composition containing a glycolipid biosurfactant and a hydrophilic cationic or pseudo-cationic active ingredient. This composition provides an enhanced deposition effect of the hydrophilic cationic or pseudo-cationic active ingredient on keratinous substances, and in particular, this personal care composition is a rinse-off product.
Mode for Carrying Out the Invention
[0014] Throughout this description, including the claims, the term "comprising one" or "comprising a" should be understood to be synonymous with the term "comprising at least one" unless otherwise specified, and "between" should be understood to include its limits.
[0015] The terms "a", "an", and "the" are used to refer to one or more (i.e., at least one) of the grammatical objects of the article.
[0016] The term "and / or" includes the meanings of "and", "or", and all other possible combinations of the elements connected by this term.
[0017] As used herein, the term "hydrophilic" means that a compound has a strong affinity for water.
[0018] As used herein, the term "charge density" means the ratio of the number of positive charges of a monomer unit (of which the polymer is composed) to the molecular weight of said monomer unit. The charge density multiplied by the polymer molecular weight determines the number of positively charged sites on a given polymer chain.
[0019] As used herein, the term "active compound" refers to a single component or a plurality of components that improve or maintain the health of the dermal barrier.
[0020] As used herein, the term "quasi-cationic compound" refers to a compound that does not have an inherent positive charge but has the same behavior as a positively charged compound. The pseudo-charged behavior in these compounds is caused by electron-donating or electron-accepting atoms and / or groups within the compound.
[0021] As used herein, the term "cosmetically acceptable" means that the described composition, formulation, or ingredient is suitable for use in contact with human keratinous substances without undue toxicity, incompatibility, instability, allergic response, etc.
[0022] As used herein, the term "keratinous substance" is meant to include hair, lips, skin, scalp, and superficial body growths such as eyelashes, eyebrows, and nails.
[0023] As used herein, the term "rinse-off" refers to the use of a composition in a situation where the composition is finally rinsed or washed from the surface (e.g., skin or hair) that has been treated, either after or during the application of the product.
[0024] It should be noted that when specifying any range of concentrations, weight ratios, or amounts, any particular upper concentration, weight ratio, or amount can be associated with any particular lower concentration, weight ratio, or amount, respectively. Unless otherwise specified, all ratios are by weight.
[0025] The present invention relates to a) a glycolipid biosurfactant, and b) a hydrophilic cationic or quasi-cationic active compound A personal care composition comprising at least, The personal care composition is targeted, where the glycolipid is preferably sophorolipid.
[0026] The personal care composition of the present invention can enhance and / or promote the remarkable deposition of hydrophilic cationic or quasi-cationic active compounds on keratinous substances, particularly hair, and includes at least one step of applying an effective amount of the composition of the present invention to the keratinous substance.
[0027] The compositions of the present invention are personal care compositions or cosmetic compositions, preferably personal care cleansing compositions, that is, compositions used for the purpose of cleansing, conditioning, grooming, beautifying, or enhancing the appearance of the human body. Personal care products include, among many others, skincare products, cosmetics, antiperspirants, deodorants, perfumes, toiletries, soaps, bath oils, feminine care products, haircare products including shampoos, conditioners, hair straightening products and other haircare products, oral hygiene products, depilators, color cosmetics, such as lipsticks, creams, makeup, skin creams, lotions (preferably consisting of water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsions), shaving creams and gels, aftershave lotions and shave conditioning compositions, and sunscreen products. In a preferred embodiment, the personal care compositions of the present invention include haircare and skincare products, particularly shampoos, conditioners, rinses, detangler products, hair color products, body washes, makeup, lipsticks, skin creams and other skincare products.
[0028] In some embodiments, the personal care compositions of the present invention may be used in traditional Chinese medicine compositions that include herbal medicines and are prepared based on traditional Chinese medicine theory. Some examples of herbal medicines include, for example, ginseng, sophora, sophora flavescens extract, which can promote hair growth and hair strength, vaccaria for blood circulation, and mulberry for a desirable moisturizing effect.
[0029] Glycolipid biosurfactants The composition of the present invention comprises at least one glycolipid biosurfactant.
[0030] Biosurfactants are understood to be substances formed by microorganisms and often excreted from cells. Similar to classical surfactants, biosurfactants are surfactants that reduce the surface tension of a liquid, thereby promoting the mixing of the aqueous (hydrophilic) phase and the hydrophobic (water-repellent) phase. Biosurfactants can be produced under mild production conditions requiring little energy. They are generally readily biodegradable and very environmentally friendly. Furthermore, they are neither toxic nor do they produce toxic byproducts during their production. Carbohydrates, particularly sugars such as glucose, and / or oleophobic carbon sources such as fats, oils, partial glycerides, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, and long-chain saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbons, are used as raw materials for the microbial production of the biosurfactants. According to the present invention, the biosurfactant is preferably a biosurfactant produced by fermentation.
[0031] Biosurfactants include glycolipids, lipopeptides, lipoproteins, phospholipids, neutral lipids, and polymer surfactants, all of which can also be used in the present invention. Glycolipids that can be used in the present invention are compounds in which one or more monosaccharide units are glycosidically linked to the lipid portion. Examples of glycolipids that can be used as biosurfactants in the present invention include sophorolipids, rhamnolipids, cellobiose lipids, mannosylerythritol lipids, trehalose lipids, and their biochemical modifications.
[0032] Sophorolipids are produced by growing yeast, such as Starmerella (Candida) bombicola (also known as Torulopsis bombicola), Yarrowia lipolytica, Candida apicola (Torulopsis apicola and Candida bogoriensis), on saccharides, hydrocarbons, vegetable oils or mixtures thereof by fermentation. Sophorolipids have the following formulas (a) (lactone type) and (b) (free acid), and these two types are typically provided as a mixture.
[0033]
Chemical formula
[0034] According to the present invention, a sophorolipid which is a mixture of acid type and lactone type is preferred, preferably about 10 to about 90% by weight, more preferably about 20 to about 60% by weight, and even more preferably about 25% to 40% by weight of the sophorolipid being acid type, with the remainder being lactone type.
[0035] Sophorolipids suitably used in the present invention can be commercially obtained, for example, from Soliance under the name Sopholiance S, and from Allied carbon solution under the name ACS-Sophor®. Sophorolipids supplied by Allied Carbon Solution are present in a mixture with lactone form at a concentration of approximately 30% by weight in the free acid form.
[0036] According to any one embodiment of the present invention, the composition of the present invention comprises 0.1% to 30% by weight of a sophorolipid surfactant based on the total weight of the composition, preferably 0.2% to 20% by weight, more specifically 0.2% to 15% by weight, and even more preferably 0.5% to 10% by weight of a sophorolipid surfactant.
[0037] Hydrophilic cation or pseudo-cationic active compound The composition of the present invention comprises at least one hydrophilic cation or pseudocationic active compound, the compound containing at least one basic or quaternary nitrogen atom. Generally, the basic nitrogen atom is titrable with a strong acid and is, for example, a primary, secondary, or tertiary amine nitrogen, preferably at least one basic nitrogen atom is a primary or secondary amine nitrogen, and more preferably at least one is a primary amine nitrogen.
[0038] In some embodiments, the hydrophilic cationic or pseudo-cationic active compound comprises one or more amidine compounds, such as hexamidine, pentaamine, benzamidine, their salts, their derivatives, and / or mixtures thereof. Amidine compounds exhibit a broad antimicrobial spectrum of activity against bacteria, yeasts, and fungi. These compounds are useful in the compositions of the present invention as hair growth regulators, i.e., mammalian hair growth regulators, including reducing, regulating, inhibiting, attenuating, delaying, promoting, enhancing, and / or decreasing hair growth. As used herein, “mammalian hair” includes hair from any part of the mammalian body, and may include facial hair, cranial hair, or body hair. Non-limiting examples of amidine hair growth regulators useful in the present invention include the following:
[0039] [ka]
[0040] The composition of the present invention preferably contains about 0.0001% to about 10% by weight of an amidine compound, more preferably about 0.001% to 5% by weight, even more preferably about 0.01% to 1% by weight, and most preferably about 0.02% to 0.5% by weight of an amidine compound.
[0041] In some preferred embodiments, the compositions of the present invention comprise one or more hexamidine compounds, salts thereof, and derivatives in a safe and effective amount. The hexamidine derivatives used herein include, but are not limited to, any isomers and tautomers of hexamidine compounds, and include, organic acids and mineral acids, such as sulfonic acids and carboxylic acids. More preferably, the hexamidine is hexamidine diisethionate, which is commercially available from BASF as Elastab® HP100.
[0042] In some embodiments, the compositions of the present invention contain one or more basic amino acids as hydrophilic cations or pseudo-cationic active compounds, which are known to be important for the growth of keratinic substances, such as hair follicle growth and human hair growth. “Basic amino acids” means naturally occurring basic amino acids, such as arginine, lysine, and histidine, as well as any basic amino acids having a carboxyl group and an amino group in their molecule that are water-soluble and give an aqueous solution with a pH of 7 or higher. Therefore, basic amino acids include, but are not limited to, arginine, lysine, citrulline, ornithine, creatine, histidine, diaminobutanoic acid, diaminopropionic acid, their salts, or combinations thereof. In preferred embodiments, the basic amino acids are creatine, diaminobutanoic acid, or diaminopropionic acid, their salts, or combinations thereof. The compositions of the present invention contain basic amino acid compounds in free or cosmetically acceptable salt forms. “Cosmetically acceptable salt form” means a salt form at the presented concentration for keratinic substances, such as hair or skin. The composition of the present invention preferably contains about 0.001% to about 20% by weight of basic amino acids, more preferably about 0.01% to 10% by weight, and even more preferably about 0.1% to 5% by weight of basic amino acids.
[0043] In some embodiments, the composition of the present invention comprises one or more hydrophilic cations or pseudocationic active compounds that may be imidazole antimicrobial agents, such as benzimidazole, benzothiazole, bifonazole, butaconazole nitrate, crimbazole, clotrimazole, croconazole, everconazole, econazole, erbiol, fenticonazole, fluconazole, flutimazole, isoconazole, ketoconazole, lanoconazole, metronidazole, miconazole, neticonazole, omoconazole, oxiconazole nitrate, sertaconazole, sulconazole nitrate, thioconazole, thiazole, and triazoles, such as terconazole, itraconazole, or combinations thereof. A safe and effective amount of antimicrobial active substance can be added to the composition as the antimicrobial active substance. In some embodiments, the composition may contain one or more imidazole antimicrobial agents in amounts of about 0.0001% by weight, 0.001% by weight, 0.01% by weight, 0.05% by weight, 0.1% by weight, 0.5% by weight, or 1% to about 30% by weight, 25% by weight, 20% by weight, 10% by weight, 7% by weight, 5% by weight, or 3% by weight of the composition.
[0044] In some embodiments, the compositions of the present invention comprise one or more alkaloid compounds as hydrophilic cationic or pseudo-cationic active compounds, which include, but are not limited to, methylxanthines such as caffeine, theophylline, aminophylline, atropine, quinine, and their salts or mixtures. Particularly preferred alkaloids for use in the personal care compositions are quinine and caffeine. In particular, quinine and its salts (bisulfate, sulfate, chloride, oleate, and tannate) can be used in the present invention to minimize hair loss and stimulate hair growth. Another preferred alkaloid particularly suitable for the present invention is caffeine, more specifically anhydrous caffeine. Caffeine is a methylxanthine with high skin penetration that acts deep within fat cells by promoting lipolysis, thereby promoting a reduction in body size. It also acts in the dermis, stimulating fibroblasts to synthesize collagen, elastin, and other extracellular matrix components, thereby increasing skin firmness. The composition of the present invention preferably contains about 0.001% to about 20% by weight of an alkaloid compound, more preferably about 0.01% to 10% by weight, and even more preferably about 0.1% to 5% by weight of an alkaloid compound.
[0045] In some embodiments, the compositions of the present invention include hydrophilic cations or pseudo-cationic active compounds that may be biguangine compounds. "Biguangine compound" means a chemical substance having the following functional groups.
[0046] [ka] In the formula, n = 1 or 2. If n = 2, then = NH n The nitrogen atom in the compound is depicted as tetravalent and therefore positively charged.
[0047] Preferably, the biguanide compound is used in the present invention as an antimicrobial agent, such as a polymer biguanide compound. Particularly preferred polymer biguanide compounds are polyhexamethylene biguanide (PHMB) or its derivatives. In one embodiment, the composition of the present invention may contain o-tolylbiguangine, which is used as an antioxidant in personal care compositions, particularly skin care compositions. The composition of the present invention preferably contains about 0.0001% to about 10% by weight of the biguangine compound, more preferably about 0.001% to 5% by weight, even more preferably about 0.01% to 1% by weight, and most preferably 0.02% to 0.5% by weight of the biguangine compound.
[0048] In some embodiments, the compositions of the present invention include one or more cationic proteins and / or protein hydrolysates as hydrophilic cationic or pseudo-cationic active compounds. Suitable protein hydrolysates are mixtures of products that can be obtained by acid, alkali, or enzymatic catalysis of proteolysis. Suitable proteins for the present invention are derived from animals, plants, and / or marine products. Suitable animal protein hydrolysates include, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk, and / or milk protein hydrolysates, which may also exist in the form of salts. Such products are marketed, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan® (BASF SE), Collapuron® (BASF SE), Nutrilan® (BASF SE), and kerasol™ (Croda). Suitable plant-derived protein hydrolysates include, for example, soybean, almond, rice, pea, potato, rapeseed, and / or wheat protein hydrolysates. Such products are available, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin® (BASF SE) and Crotein® (Croda). Suitable marine-derived protein hydrolysates include, for example, collagen hydrolysates from fish or algae, and protein hydrolysates from mussels or pearls. Cationic protein hydrolysates can also be used, and the underlying protein hydrolysates can be derived from the aforementioned animals, plants, and / or marine products. The protein hydrolysates that form the basis of cationic derivatives can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical hydrolysis, particularly alkaline hydrolysis or acid hydrolysis, enzymatic hydrolysis, and / or a combination of both. Protein hydrolysis usually results in protein hydrolysates having a molecular weight distribution of about 100 to 50,000 daltons. Preferably, the cationic protein hydrolysates have a molecular weight of 200 to 25,000 daltons, for example 200 to 10,000 daltons, for example 250 to 5,000 daltons. Furthermore, cationic protein hydrolysates,This should be understood as referring to quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof. Quaternization of protein hydrolysates or amino acids is often carried out using quaternary ammonium salts, such as N,N-dimethyl-N-(n-alkyl)-N-(2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl)ammonium halide. Furthermore, cationic protein hydrolysates can be further derivatized. Typical examples of cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives include cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen, cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed casein, cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen, cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed keratin, cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed rice protein, cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed silk, cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed soy protein, cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed wheat protein, cocodimonium hydroxypropyl silk amino acids, hydroxypropyl arginine lauryl / myristyl ether HCl, hydroxypropyltrimonium gelatin, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed casein, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed collagen, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed conchiolin protein, and hydroxypropyl Trimonium hydrolyzed keratin, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed rice bran protein, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed silk, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed soy protein, hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed vegetable protein, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed wheat protein, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed wheat protein / siloxysilicate, laurdimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed soy protein, laurdimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed wheat protein, laurdimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed wheat protein / siloxysilicate, laurdimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed casein, laurdimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen, laurdimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed keratin, laurdimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed silk, laurdimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed soy protein,Examples of products known by their INCI names include steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed casein, steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen, steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed keratin, steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed rice protein, steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed silk, steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed soy protein, steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed vegetable protein, steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed wheat protein, steartrimonium hydroxyethyl hydrolyzed collagen, quaternium-76 hydrolyzed collagen, quaternium-79 hydrolyzed collagen, quaternium-79 hydrolyzed keratin, quaternium-79 hydrolyzed milk protein, quaternium-79 hydrolyzed silk, quaternium-79 hydrolyzed soy protein, and quaternium-79 hydrolyzed wheat protein. According to any one embodiment of the present invention, the composition contains at least one cationic protein and / or protein hydrolysate in an amount of 0.01 to 30% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 20% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, and most preferably 1 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0049] Conditioning agent According to any one embodiment of the present invention, the composition of the present invention may further comprise a conditioning agent, particularly a cationic or amphoteric conditioning agent. Suitable cationic conditioning polymers that can be used include cationic polysaccharide polymers, such as cationic cellulose derivatives, cationic starch derivatives, and cationic guar gum derivatives. Preferably, such cationic polysaccharide polymers have a charge density in the range of 0.1 to 4 meq / g. In some embodiments, the conditioning agent may be cationic cellulose. Cationic cellulose is available from Amerchol Corp. (Edison, NJ, USA) in their Polymer JR® and LR® series polymers, and is referred to in the industry (CTFA) as polyquaternium 10 as a salt of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with trimethylammonium substituted epoxide. Another type of cationic cellulose includes a polymeric quaternary ammonium salt of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with lauryldimethylammonium substituted epoxide, and is referred to in the industry (CTFA) as polyquaternium 24. These materials are available from Amerchol Corp. (Edison, NJ, USA) under the trade name Polymer LM-200.
[0050] According to any one embodiment of the present invention, one preferred cationic conditioning polymer may be a cationic guar polymer, which is a cationically substituted galactomannan (guar) gum derivative. The guar gum used in preparing these guar gum derivatives is typically obtained as a naturally occurring substance from the seeds of the guar plant. The guar molecule itself is a linear mannan, branched at regular intervals by single galactose units on alternating mannose units. The mannose units are linked to each other by (1-4) glycosidic bonds. The galactose branching is due to (1-6) bonds. Cationic derivatives of guar gum are obtained by the reaction between the hydroxyl group of polygalactomannan and a reactive quaternary ammonium compound. Cationic guar polymers have a weight-average molecular weight of 10,000 to 5,000,000 g / mol and a charge density of about 0.05 to about 2.5 meq / g, preferably having a weight-average molecular weight of 15,000 to 2,500,000 g / mol, more preferably 200,000 to 1,500,000 g / mol, and a charge density of 0.2 to 2.2 meq / g, or 0.3 to 2.0 meq / g, or 0.4 to 1.8 meq / g. Suitable cationic guar polymers include cationic guar gum derivatives, such as guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. In some embodiments, the cationic guar polymer is guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. Specific examples of guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride include the Jaguar® series, commercially available from Rhone-Poulenc Incorporated. Other suitable guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chlorides include Hi-Care 1000, available from Rhodia, with a charge density of approximately 0.7 meq / g and a molecular weight of 600,000 g / mol; N-Hance 3269 and N-Hance 3270, available from ASI, with a charge density of approximately 0.7 meq / g and a molecular weight of approximately 425,000 g / mol; and AquaCat CG518, available from ASI, with a charge density of 0.9 meq / g and a molecular weight of 50,000 g / mol.
[0051] According to any one embodiment of the present invention, a suitable cationic conditioning polymer may be a water-soluble cationic-modified starch polymer. As used herein, the term "cationically modified starch" refers to starch to which cationic groups have been added before the starch is broken down into smaller molecular weights, or to starch to which cationic groups have been added after the modification of the starch to achieve a desired molecular weight. The definition of the term "cationically modified starch" also includes amphoteric modified starch. The term "amphoteric modified starch" refers to a starch hydrolysate to which cationic and anionic groups have been added. Cationic-modified starch polymers for use in the personal cleaning compositions of the present invention have molecular weights of about 850,000 to about 15,000,000 and / or about 900,000 to about 5,000,000. The cation-modified starch polymer used in the present invention has a charge density of about 0.2 meq / g to about 5 meq / g, preferably about 0.2 meq / g to about 2 meq / g.
[0052] Other cationic or amphoteric conditioning agents known in the art may be used, provided they are compatible with the compositions of the present invention. Synthetic cationic polymers (e.g., polymers containing units having quaternary or tertiary ammonium groups, and optionally neutral units) and synthetic amphoteric copolymers (e.g., polymers containing units having quaternary or tertiary ammonium groups, units having anionic (usually acidic) groups, and optionally neutral units) are particularly noteworthy. Conditioning agents are known to those skilled in the art. Typical examples of conditioning agents include those with INCI names, Polyquaternium-1, Polyquaternium-2, Polyquaternium-4, Polyquaternium-5, Polyquaternium-6, Polyquaternium-7, Polyquaternium-8, Polyquaternium-9, Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-11, Polyquaternium-12, Polyquaternium-13, Polyquaternium-14, Polyquaternium-15, Polyquaternium- 16, Polyquaternium-17, Polyquaternium-18, Polyquaternium-19, Polyquaternium-20, Polyquaternium-22, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-27, Polyquaternium-28, Polyquaternium-29, Polyquaternium-30, Polyquaternium-31, Polyquaternium-32, Polyquaternium-33, Polyquaternium-34 Polyquaternium-35, Polyquaternium-36, Polyquaternium-37, Polyquaternium-39, Polyquaternium-43, Polyquaternium-44, Polyquaternium-45, Polyquaternium-46, Polyquaternium-47, Polyquaternium-48, Polyquaternium-49, Polyquaternium-50, Polyquaternium-52, Polyquaternium-53, Polyquaternium-54, Polyquaternium-55, Polyquaternium-56, Polyquaternium-57, Polyquaternium-58, Polyquaternium-59, Polyquaternium-60, Polyquaternium-63, Polyquaternium-64, Polyquaternium-65 Polyquaternium-66, Polyquaternium-67, Polyquaternium-70, Polyquaternium-85, Polyquaternium-86, Polyβ-Alanine, Polyε-Lysine, Polylysine, PEG-8 / SMDI copolymer, PPG-12 / SMDI copolymer, PPG-51 / SMDI copolymer, PPG-7 / Succinate copolymer, IPDI / PEG-15 Cocamine copolymer, IPDI / PEG-15 Cocamine copolymer dimer dilinoleate, IPDI / PEG-15 Soyamine copolymer, IPDI / PEG-15 Soyamine oxide copolymer, IPDI / PEG-15 Soyethonium ethosulfateEthosulfate copolymer, polyquaternium-4 / hydroxypropyl starch copolymer, cassia hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, chitosan hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, dextran hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, galactoarabinan hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, ginseng hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, locust bean hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, starch hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed wheat starch, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed corn starch, hydroxypropyl oxidized starch PG-trimonium chloride, tamarind hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, polyacrylamide propyltrimonium chloride, polymethacrylamide propyltrimonium chloride Examples include mononium chloride, polymethacrylamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, propyltrimonium chloride methacrylamide / dimethylacrylamide copolymer, acrylamide / ethalkonium chloride acrylate copolymer, acrylamide / ethyltrimonium chloride acrylate / ethalkonium chloride acrylate copolymer, acrylate / carbamate copolymer, adipic acid / methyl DEA crosspolymer, diethylene glycol / DMAP acrylamide / PEG-180 / HDI copolymer, dihydroxyethyl tallowamine / IPDI copolymer, dimethylamine / ethylenediamine / epichlorohydrin copolymer, HEMA glucoside / ethyl methacrylate trimonium chloride copolymer, hydrolyzed wheat protein / PEG-20 acetate copolymer, hydrolyzed wheat protein / PVP crosspolymer, and ethyltrimonium chloride methacrylate / hydroxyethylacrylamide copolymer.
[0053] According to any one embodiment of the present invention, the amount of conditioning agent in the composition can be in the range of 0.01 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, for example, in the range of 0.05 to 10% by weight, 0.1 to 10% by weight, or 0.1 to 5% by weight.
[0054] Additional surfactants The compositions of the present invention may further comprise one or more additional anionic surfactants. In some embodiments, the additional anionic surfactants may be selected from alkyl sulfates, alkylamide sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamide ether sulfates, alkylaryl ether sulfates, salts of monoglyceride sulfates, and amino acid-based surfactants. Typical examples of such surfactants include sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), sodium laureth sulfate (SLES), ammonium lauryl sulfate (ALS), or ammonium laureth sulfate (ALES). In some embodiments, the anionic surfactants may be used alone or as part of a mixture of nonionic / anionic surfactants and may comprise, or substantially comprise, compounds selected from the group consisting of sulfonates, sulfosuccinates, carboxylates, sarcosinates, isethionates, sulfoacetates, and ammonium salts, alkali salts, or alkaline earth salts of combinations thereof. In some preferred embodiments, the anionic surfactant used in the present invention includes amino acid-based surfactants, such as N-acyl acidic amino acids and their salts, such as N-acyl glutamic acid, N-acyl aspartic acid, their salts (sodium salt, potassium salt, ammonium salt, or triethanolamine (TEA) salt), or mixtures thereof.
[0055] The compositions of the present invention may further contain one or more amphoteric surfactants, which may consist of, or substantially consist of, compounds selected from the group consisting of cocoamidopropyl betaine, cocoamidohydroxylsultaine, cocoamphoacetate, sodium cocoyl methyl taurate, and combinations thereof.
[0056] Suitable nonionic surfactants for use in the present invention include, or may substantially consist of, compounds selected from the group consisting of alkyl polyglucosides, cocoamide monoethanolamine, cocoamide diethanolamine, glycerol alkyl esters, polyethylene glycol, and combinations thereof. Preferably, the nonionic surfactant is an alkyl polyglucoside for the present invention.
[0057] Additional surfactant components suitable for use in the personal care compositions of the present invention include those known for their use in hair care or other personal care compositions.
[0058] According to any one embodiment of the present invention, the additional surfactant may be present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and in particular in an amount ranging from, for example, 1 to 50% by weight, 1 to 30% by weight, more particularly 5 to 20% by weight, and more specifically 10 to 15% by weight.
[0059] To avoid any doubt, the amount of surfactant refers to the actual amount of the active surfactant compound present in the composition. In other words, it does not include any residues that may be present as impurities in commercially available surfactant mixtures.
[0060] Additional beneficial agents The compositions of the present invention may further contain one or more beneficial agents that can provide a good and / or beneficial effect on the substrate being cleansed, such as hair and skin. Those skilled in the art can select such suitable optional components for topical purposes in accordance with the general knowledge in the art of formulating personal care compositions, such as shampoos, shower gels and liquid hand soaps, and the vast amount of relevant literature. In one embodiment, the composition of the present invention contains one or more beneficial agents, for example, emollients, moisturizers, conditioners, skin conditioners, or hair conditioners, for example, silicones, for example, volatile silicones, gums or oils, or non-aminosilicones and mixtures thereof, mineral oil, esters, for example, butyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, decyl oleate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl ricinoleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl isostearate, hexyl laurate, isobutyl palmitate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl laurate, isopropyl linoleate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, propylene glycol monolaurate, propylene glycol ricinoleate, propylene stearate Animal fats including propylene glycol, propylene glycol isostearate, acetylated lanolin alcohol, lanolin, lard, mink oil and beef tallow, and fatty acids and alcohols including behenic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, eicosanyl alcohol and isocetyl alcohol; vitamins or their derivatives, such as thiamine, nicotinic acid, biotin, pantothenic acid, choline, riboflavin, vitamin B6, vitamin B12, and the vitamin B complex including pyridoxine; inositol, carnitine; vitamins A, C, D, E, K and their derivatives, such as vitamin A palmitate; and provitamins, such as panthenol (provitamin B5), panthenol triacetate and mixtures thereof; antioxidants; free radical scavengers; natural or synthetic abrasives; dyes; hair colorants; bleaches;Hair bleaching agents, UV absorbers, e.g., benzophenone, bornelon, PABA (para-aminobenzoic acid), butyl PABA, cinnamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride, disodium distylylbiphenyl disulfonate, potassium methoxycinnamate; anti-UV agents, e.g., butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, octyl methoxycinnamate, oxybenzone, octocrylene, octyl salicylate, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, ethyl hydroxypropyl aminobenzoate, menthyl anthranilate, aminobenzoic acid, cinoxate, diethanolamine methoxycinnamate, glyceryl aminobenzoate, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, oxybenzone, octyldimethyl PABA (padimate O), red petrolatum; antibacterial agents, e.g., bacitracin, erythromycin, triclosan, neomycin, tetracycline, chlortetracycline Benzethonium chloride, phenol, parachlorometaxylenol (PCMX), triclocarban (TCC), chlorhexidine gluconate (CHG), zinc pyrithione, selenium sulfide; antifungal agents; melanin regulators; tanning accelerators; decolorizing agents, e.g. retinoids, e.g. retinol, kojic acid and its derivatives, e.g., kojic dipalmitate, hydroquinone and its derivatives, e.g., arbutin, tranexamic acid, vitamins, e.g. Niacin, vitamin C and its derivatives, azelaic acid, placertia, licorice, chamomile and green tea extracts (retinol, kojic acid, and hydroquinone are preferred); skin whitening agents, such as hydroquinone, catechol and its derivatives, ascorbic acid and its derivatives; skin colorants, such as dihydroxyacetone; lipid regulators; weight-reducing agents; anti-acne agents; anti-seborrheic agents; anti-aging agents; anti-wrinkle agents; keratolytic agents; anti-inflammatory agents;Anti-acne agents, such as tretinoin, isotretinoin, motoretinide, adapalene, tazarotene, azelaic acid, retinol, salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide, resorcinol; antibiotics, such as tetracycline and its isomers, erythromycin; anti-inflammatory agents, such as ibuprofen, naproxen, hetoprofen; plant extracts, such as Arnus, Arnica, Artemisia capillaris, Asarum, Calendula, Chamomile, Nidium, Symphytum officinale, Fennel, Hawthorn, Houttuynia cordata, Hypericum kinuta, Jujube, Kiwi, Licorice, Magnolia, Olive, Peppermint, Philodendron, Salvia, Sasa albomarginata), imidazoles, e.g., ketoconazole and erbiol; cooling agents; cicatrizing agents; vasoprotective agents; anti-dandruff agents; agents for seborrheic dermatitis; or agents for psoriasis, e.g., heavy metals, e.g., pyrithione salts formed from zinc, tin, cadmium, magnesium, aluminum, sodium, and zirconium, e.g., zinc pyrithione; rock oil and its derivatives, e.g., sulfonated rock oil; selenium sulfide; sulfur; salicylic acid; coal tar; povidone-iodine; imidazoles, e.g., ketoconazole, dichlorophenylimidazolodioxalane; clotrimazole; itraconazole; miconazole; crimbazole; thioconazole; sulconazole; butoconazole; fluconazole; miconazolenitrite. and any possible stereoisomers and derivatives thereof, e.g., anthraline, piroctone olamine (Octopirox), selenium sulfide, cyclopirox olamine; antipsoriatic agents, e.g., vitamin D analogues, e.g., calcipotriol, calcitriol, and tacaleitrol; vitamin A analogues, e.g., vitamin A palmitate, retinoids, retinol, and esters of vitamin A including retinoic acid; corticosteroids, e.g., hydrocortisone, clobetazone, butyrate, clobetasol propionate; antiperspirants or deodorants, e.g., aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium chlorohydrate; immunomodulators; nutritional supplements;Hair removal agents, such as calcium thioglycolate, magnesium thioglycolate, potassium thioglycolate, and strontium thioglycolate; agents for inhibiting hair loss; reducing agents for perming agents; reflective agents, such as mica, alumina, calcium silicate, glycol diolate, glycol distearate, silica, and sodium magnesium fluorosilicate; may further contain essential oils and fragrances.
[0061] According to some embodiments of the present invention, the compositions of the present invention may further contain polymeric or nonpolymeric thickeners to ensure that the compositions have a satisfactory viscosity for their intended use. The compositions may contain less than 10% by weight of additional thickeners. A suitable classification of thickeners for the compositions includes, but is not limited to, sodium chloride, potassium chloride, ammonium chloride, sodium sulfate, fatty acid alkylolamides, cellulose derivatives, carboxylic acid polymers, crosslinked polyacrylate polymers, polyacrylamide polymers, polysaccharides, gums, and mixtures thereof. Non-limiting examples of suitable thickeners are listed in the CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 10th edition (2004), pages 2294-2296.
[0062] According to any one embodiment of the present invention, the composition further comprises a cosmetic-grade carrier. In some embodiments, the carrier is an aqueous carrier. The amount and chemical properties of the carrier are selected according to their compatibility with other components and other desired properties of the product. In some embodiments, the carrier is selected from the group consisting of water and aqueous solutions of lower alkyl alcohols. In some embodiments, the carrier is a cosmetic-grade aqueous carrier and is present at a level of about 20% to about 95%, or about 60% to about 85%.
[0063] According to any one embodiment of the present invention, the personal care composition is used in a manner known in the art, for example, in the case of a cleanser or shampoo, by applying the cleanser or shampoo to the skin and / or hair and optionally rinsing the cleanser or shampoo off the skin and / or hair with water. According to any one embodiment of the present invention, the composition of the present invention may have a pH between 4 and 11, for example between 4 and 6.
[0064] The personal care compositions of the present invention can be prepared by mixing the individual components using any conventional compounding technique known in the prior art, such as conventional stirring, shaking, or tumbling. These components may be supplied as concentrated solutions and diluted and / or combined in appropriate ratios by those skilled in the art. The present invention encompasses any concentrates used as component materials for preparing the compositions of the present invention, particularly concentrates containing a limited level of water for any reason from a cost and environmental standpoint. [Examples]
[0065] material Cocamidopropyl Betaine: Dehyton® PK45 from BASF Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate: Plantapon® ACG 50 from BASF Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate: Jordapon® CILA from BASF Cocoglucoside: Plantacare (registered trademark) 818UP from BASF Sodium laureth sulfate: Texapon® NSO from BASF Sophorolipid: ACS-Sophor® from Allied Carbon Solution Polyquaternium-10: Ucare (registered trademark) JR400 from Dow Acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride / Acrylamide Copolymer: Salcare® SC60 from BASF PEG / PPG-120 / 10 Trimethylolpropane Trioleate (and) Laureth-2: Arylpon (registered trademark) TT from BASF Hexamidine diisethionate: Elestab (registered trademark) HP100 from BASF Quinine sulfate: BR, SCRC (registered trademark) from Sinoreagent
[0066] Formulation protocol 1. Cationic polymers (polyquaternium-10, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, and acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride / acrylamide copolymer) were added to 60 mL of water while stirring at 200 rpm until the cationic polymers were uniformly dispersed and completely swollen in water. 2. The surfactants were sequentially added to the polymer-containing solution (obtained in step 1) while stirring at 200 rpm. Sodium cocoyl isethionate needs to be heated to 70°C to completely dissolve in the solution. 3. A hydrophilic cation or pseudo-cationic active ingredient was dissolved in water (5 mL) while stirring at 200 rpm, and then added to the solution obtained in step 2 while stirring at 200 rpm until a homogeneous system was achieved. 4. A thickening agent (PEG / PPG-120 / 10 trimethylolpropanetrioleate (and) laureth-2), a preservative (sodium benzoate), and other components including sodium chloride were sequentially added to the solution obtained in step 3 while stirring at 200 rpm. 5. Add water up to 100g to the solution obtained in step 4, and adjust the pH of the formulation solution to 4.5-5.5 with citric acid solution or triethanolamine.
[0067] [Table 1]
[0068] Evaluation method A piece of wool cloth (5cm x 5cm, 0.6g) was placed at the bottom of a 150mL beaker. Then, 3g of the formulation containing the active ingredient was added to the cloth, and 12g of DI water was added to dilute it. The diluted formulation was stirred on the cloth at 100rpm for 1 hour using a magnetic stirring bar to allow sufficient time for coacervation precipitation. Next, the wool cloth was removed from the beaker and stirred in 500g of purified water for 15 seconds to remove the loosely adhering coacervate precipitate. The wool cloth was then transferred to a centrifuge and immersed overnight in 30g of MeOH until the adhering coacervate and active ingredient were completely dissolved. After removing the wool cloth from the tube, the supernatant was collected by centrifugation at 3000rpm for 10 minutes.
[0069] Deposition measurement method The recovered supernatant was tested in MeOH at specific wavelengths (265 nm for hexamidine and 280 nm for quinine) using ultraviolet spectrophotometry (Perkin Elmer 365). The UV absorption values, after subtracting a blank control measured using a formulation without the active ingredient, were then used to calculate the amount of the active ingredient in MeOH based on a standard curve. The deposition rate was determined by dividing by the amount of the initial active ingredient added to the formulation.
[0070] Deposition rate of hydrophilic cation or pseudo-cationic active ingredient
[0071] [Table 2]
[0072] The deposition test results demonstrate that the embodiments of the present invention containing sophorolipid surfactants provide a substantial and remarkable enhancement of the deposition of hydrophilic cation or pseudocationic active ingredients in various personal care formulations. Due to the presence of the sophorolipid surfactant, Example 1 (Ex.1) of the present invention exhibits a higher deposition rate of the active ingredient (hexamidine diisethionate) than Comparative Example 1 (Comp Ex.1), and Example 2 (Ex.2) of the present invention exhibits a higher deposition rate of the active ingredient (hexamidine diisethionate) than Comparative Example 2 (Comp Ex.2). Example 3 (Ex.3) of the present invention exhibits an improved deposition effect of the active ingredient (hexamidine diisethionate) than Comparative Examples 3A and 3B (Comp Ex.3A and 3B), and with respect to the active ingredient quinine sulfate, Example 4 containing the sophorolipid surfactant shows an enhanced deposition rate compared to Comparative Examples 4A and 4B (Comp Ex.4A and 4B).
Claims
1. a) a glycolipid biosurfactant, and b) a hydrophilic cation or pseudocationic active compound, wherein the glycolipid is a sophorolipid. The hydrophilic cation or pseudocationic active compound comprises at least one compound selected from the group consisting of amidine compounds and alkaloid compounds. A personal care composition in which the alkaloid compound is selected from the group consisting of caffeine, theophylline, aminophylline, atropine, quinine, salts thereof, or mixtures thereof.
2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the sophorolipid biosurfactant is a mixture of acidic and lactone types.
3. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the sophorolipid is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight of the sophorolipid surfactant based on the total weight of the composition.
4. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the hydrophilic cation or pseudocationic active compound comprises a hexamidine compound, a salt thereof, or a derivative thereof.
5. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, further comprising at least one conditioning agent.
6. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, further comprising one or more anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, and / or amphoteric surfactants.
7. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, further comprising one or more additional beneficial agents.
8. A rinse-off product, the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7.
9. A method for enhancing or promoting the deposition of hydrophilic cations or pseudo-cationic active compounds onto a keratinous substance, comprising at least one step of applying an effective amount of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 to the keratinous substance.
10. Use of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 for enhancing or promoting the deposition of hydrophilic cations or pseudocationic active compounds on keratinous materials.
11. Use of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 for simultaneously caring for and cleansing keratinous substances.
Citation Information
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