Cosmetic composition for facial make-up base with facial rejuvenating and Anti-aging effect, and the respective process for obtaining same

Abstract

The present invention patent belongs to the technical field of cosmetics and / or similar preparations characterised by the composition thereof, more specifically it presents a technology based on an A / Si emulsion, treatment methods and the respective process for obtaining same, which can improve the appearance of the skin, more specifically reduce the appearance of wrinkles, balancing the correct amount of skin contraction, film flexibility, contraction resilience, compatibility with other cosmetic products, active ingredients and absence of skin irritation.

Description

“COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR FACIAL MAKEUP BASE WITH FACIAL REJUVENATION AND ANTI-AGING EFFECT AND THE PROCESS OF OBTAINING IT”

[0001] This invention patent pertains to the technical field of cosmetics and / or similar preparations characterized by their composition. More specifically, it presents a technology based on a W / Si (water:silicone) emulsion, treatment methods, and the respective production process, which can improve skin appearance, more specifically, reduce the appearance of wrinkles, by balancing the correct amount of skin contraction, film flexibility, contraction resilience, compatibility with other cosmetic products, active ingredients, and absence of skin irritation. These and other improvements in the technique are provided by the present invention. It relates to personal care compositions and their methods of use that, due to the synergistic interaction of the specific proportions of their ingredients as well as their production process, provide unusual adhesion and skin contraction to smooth and even out wrinkles and texture imperfections.

[0002] This is a new cosmetic makeup formulation / composition, which combines the delivery of several scientifically proven benefits, such as: immediate concealment of imperfections (makeup effect), skin care treatments (reduction of wrinkles, expression lines, stimulation of the production of collagen and elastin fibers, skin firmness, anti-aging action, facial rejuvenation effect, SPF UVB 15, protection against blue light, non-comedogenic and skin hydration. STATE OF THE TECHNIQUE

[0003] Visible wrinkles, particularly those on the face and around the eyes, are one of the most prevalent and undesirable signs of aging. Many consumer products and procedures are dedicated to hiding or reducing wrinkles. These products and procedures can be simple and inexpensive, such as applying makeup, especially a primer or a colored foundation, to simply cover the wrinkles on the consumer's skin. Much more expensive and drastic procedures, such as surgical facial rejuvenation (lifting) and botulinum toxin injections, are also used to reduce the appearance of facial wrinkles. There is a There are countless lotions and creams available that aim to moisturize the skin, making it more supple, and reducing the appearance of wrinkles. Some cosmetic products contain active ingredients that help repair and rejuvenate the skin over time. All of these products and procedures have advantages and disadvantages.

[0004] Liquid foundations and other makeup products are often visible, offer minimal textural benefits, and have no lasting effect on the skin. Hydration and optical effects are common acute benefits, and these benefits fade over time. Chronic active ingredients can rejuvenate or repair the skin over time, but these chronic benefits take time to occur and are incremental improvements, and there are limits to their effectiveness. Plastic surgery and chemical injections have a more pronounced, immediate, and dramatic effect on the consumer's skin appearance, but these procedures can be very expensive and carry many risks, as plastic surgery carries the same risk of failure as any other surgical procedure, including possible disfigurement.

[0005] Attempts have been made to develop new categories of topical products to improve skin appearance without the drawbacks of existing products and procedures. One such product family can be broadly classified as "adhesive and contractile film formers." Film formers are chemical compounds that, when applied to the skin, leave a flexible, cohesive, and continuous covering. A select group of film formers are also adhesive to the skin and even contractile.

[0006] Wrinkles, in their simplest form, are crevices or valleys in the skin. When an adhesive and contractile film-forming product is applied to a wrinkle area, the skin at the bottom of the valley or crevice can be pulled to the surface, making the skin appear smooth and wrinkle-free. Disadvantages of current adhesive and contractile film-forming products include discomfort caused by skin contraction, skin irritation, cracking of the film (cracking) when the consumer uses facial muscles, incompatibility with other cosmetic products in their regimen, and the often whitish and visible film. noticeable.

[0007] Furthermore, the skin is the largest organ in the human body, with a total surface area of ​​about 2m 2in adults, and performs regulatory and sensory functions. The skin also protects the body from the external environment, preventing water loss and the entry of harmful substances and microorganisms. In particular, the stratum corneum, the outermost layer of the skin, is a formidable barrier that must also be overcome for the delivery of active molecules through the skin. A good understanding of barrier properties is important for the development, optimization, and testing of topical cosmetic products.

[0008] Cosmetic compositions used to create a user's skin must be able to impart color with little or no transfer, while also providing good wear properties. Transfer and wear resistance in cosmetic compositions are typically achieved through the use of film-forming resins, such as silicone film-forming resins. Silicones are synthetic polymers containing Si—O—Si bonds and are used in many industries for their water repellency, surface wetting ability, high gas permeability, stability in extreme temperatures, and resistance to thermal, radiation, and chemical degradation.

[0009] With the rise in interest in multi-use or hybrid makeup in recent years, the world is evolving at a faster pace and driving beauty trends at the same speed.

[0010] Consumers are increasingly concerned about and seeking multifunctional cosmetics. Color cosmetics are more closely linked to skincare than ever before, and the demand for makeup that goes beyond mere decoration is growing and must be addressed urgently. It is well known to those skilled in the art that silicone-based film formers are key ingredients in achieving long-lasting color cosmetics; however, their role in the effective delivery of anti-aging active ingredients when added to color cosmetics is less well understood.

[0011] There are several patent documents that form part of the state of the art that discuss the effects of improving facial wrinkles, but none of them managed to achieve all the results provided by the present invention, even less so through a colored cosmetic product.

[0012] Patent document CN109674734, for example, discloses a colorless, serum-type cosmetic product designed to rejuvenate (lift) and improve the skin. The pigments used (iron oxides, titanium dioxide) in colored cosmetic formulations could provide a physical and occlusive barrier to the penetration of treatment active ingredients into the skin.

[0013] It is desirable that the pigments remain attached to the skin's surface (epidermis) and have no effect on deeper layers of the skin (where the treatment active ingredients should be delivered / permeated). Therefore, it remains desirable to achieve the fundamental characteristics of a color cosmetic (pigmentation, color resistance, and color permanence on the skin's surface), providing treatment benefits for the skin, in addition to the desired rejuvenation (lifting) effect, without any interference with the formulation's sensory, spreadability, or pleasantness.

[0014] Document CN109674734 describes a composition with moisturizing, repairing, relaxing and anti-aging effects, through a specific composition and without presenting the color functionality. TECHNICAL SOLUTION

[0015] To reduce or completely resolve the problems identified in the prior art, there is a continuing desire to provide compositions and treatment methods that can improve skin appearance, more specifically, reduce the appearance of wrinkles (with immediate / preventive and therapeutic effects), balancing the correct amount of skin contraction, film flexibility, no film whitening effect, contraction resilience, compatibility with other cosmetic products, absence of skin irritation, and the use of vegan ingredients / vegan formulas. These and other improvements in the art are provided by the present invention.

[0016] Through the present invention it is possible to combine all the attributes that have been proven in performance tests, in a single, stable and with a vegan formula.

[0017] With a pleasant sensory and texture (cloud-like texture, velvety, watery, creamy, second-skin effect), the present invention avoids the undesirable effect that is generally caused by film formers (stickiness, difficulty in spreading and slow drying of the product on the skin), acting continuously and prolonging the anti-aging benefits.

[0018] Thus, in accordance with the present invention, the following tests were conducted to verify the effects / attributes obtained: - cutometry; - perceived effectiveness; - skin hydration; - FPS in vivo; - image analysis; - acceptability, comedogenicity; and - in vitro anti-aging.

[0019] The anti-aging effect was demonstrated by synthesizing type 1 procollagen in an ex vivo human skin model using enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA). In this method, ex vivo human skin fragments were treated with the product of the present invention daily for 4 days. After 24 hours, culture supernatants were collected for subsequent quantification of type 1 procollagen using enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA).

[0020] For ex vivo human skin culture, ex vivo human skin fragments were transported to the laboratory in saline. The hypodermis was then removed, and the fragments were subjected to standardized 8-mm diameter sections for subsequent aseptic procedures using DMEM high glucose supplemented with gentamicin for 1 hour at 4°C. After the procedure, the sections were mounted in transwell inserts for 24-well plates and cultured at the air-liquid interface.

[0021] To carry out the treatments, the product of the present invention was applied to the surface of the epidermis at a concentration of 25mg / cm 2 . The treatment was carried out by I 6 For four consecutive days, the product was removed with a sterile cotton swab before reapplying, and the culture medium was renewed daily. Twenty-four hours after the last treatment, the culture plates were shaken on an orbital shaker for 15 minutes, and the supernatants were collected for later quantification of the proposed mediator.

[0022] Quantification of type 1 procollagen in culture supernatants was performed using the enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA) technique.

[0023] The unpaired t-test was used in the statistical evaluation, allowing the evaluation of the variation in results by comparing data between groups. A significance level of 5% was used (GraphPad Prism v8).

[0024] Mediator Quantification - Pro-collagen Type 1: Ex vivo skin treatment with the product of the present invention increased the synthesis of pro-collagen type 1, the main component of the extracellular matrix, by 12% (P < 0.001) when compared to the basal control group. This result, which is presented in Figure 1, allows us to infer that the product increases skin collagen, improving skin firmness and support with consequent anti-aging action. In this case, ex vivo human skin fragments were treated for 4 days with the product of the present invention for subsequent quantification of pro-collagen type 1 synthesis.

[0025] Elastin Mediator Quantification: Ex vivo skin treatment with the present invention increased elastin synthesis, a major component of the extracellular matrix, by 14% (P<0.01) compared to the baseline control group. This result, shown in Figure 2, suggests that the product increases skin elasticity, improving firmness and skin support, and consequently, anti-aging effects. In this case, ex vivo human skin fragments were treated with the present invention for 4 days for subsequent quantification of elastin synthesis.

[0026] For the clinical evaluation of skin and ophthalmological acceptability and evaluation of comedogenic and acnegenic potential under normal conditions of use, 30 female subjects participated in the study; with a history of oily skin and / or acne tendency; aged between 18 and 60 years; 17.0% phototype II, 47.0% phototype III and 37 0% phototype IV, according to Fitzpatrick classification, with no reports or evidence of adverse reactions during the study.

[0027] To assess skin acceptability and comedogenic and acnegenic potential, the study participants were clinically evaluated by a dermatologist, and for the ophthalmological evaluation, they were clinically evaluated by an ophthalmologist using a slit lamp with 20x magnification, at baseline and after 28 days of home use of the product of this invention. The physicians evaluated and classified the clinical signs or sensations of discomfort presented by the participants, their location, duration, onset in relation to the application of the product of this invention, frequency, intensity, progression, and any drug treatment adopted.

[0028] The objective of the comedogenicity and acnegenicity study was to determine the comedogenic and acnegenic potential of the product in question, that is, the ability of the product in question to develop or potentiate the appearance of blackheads (comedones) and whiteheads (papules and pustules). The evaluation was performed by counting the comedones, papules, and pustules using white fluorescent lighting on the forehead of the research participants included in the study.

[0029] The study resulted in skin acceptability in use: 100% of the research participants did not present irritative or allergenic skin reactions, characterized by tingling, edema, dryness and / or appearance of blisters on the skin, resulting from the use of the product of the present invention.

[0030] Regarding ocular acceptability, said study resulted in: 100% of the research participants did not present irritative or allergenic ocular reactions, characterized by eyelid or periorbital edema, eyelid or periorbital erythema, conjunctival hyperemia, eyelid or periorbital desquamation or any other signs or symptoms of irritative or allergenic ocular reactions or sensations of discomfort, resulting from the application of the product of the present invention.

[0031] Thus, the product of the present invention did not induce or enhance the appearance of comedones (open and closed) and the appearance of acne (papules and pustules) after 28 days of home use, being clinically considered anti- comedogenic and non-acnegenic.

[0032] The results described above reaffirm the excellent cutaneous and ophthalmological acceptability of the product of the present invention, thus supporting the terms: clinically tested; dermatologically tested; ophthalmologically tested; anti-comedogenic; and non-acnegenic.

[0033] Comedogenicity was assessed through statistical analysis. The total comedone count values ​​(open and closed) obtained after 28 days of home use of the product of the present invention were compared with the values ​​obtained in the initial evaluation, applying the paired Student's t-test method, considering a 95% confidence interval, considering: if the total comedone values ​​obtained after 28 days are significantly lower (P < 0.05) than the total comedone values ​​obtained at the beginning of the study, the product of the present invention will be classified as "anti-acnegenic" - indicating that the product of the present invention reduces comedone lesions (open and closed); if the total comedone values ​​obtained after 28 days do not show a significant difference (P ~ 0.05) compared to the total comedone values ​​obtained at the beginning of the study, the product of the present invention will be classified as "non-acnegenic."” - indicating that the product of the present invention does not induce or enhance the appearance of comedones (open and closed); and if the total comedone values ​​obtained after 28 days are significantly higher (P > 0.05) than the total comedone values ​​obtained at the beginning of the study, the product of the present invention was classified as “mild to strongly comedogenic”. Clinically, the product of the present invention was classified as described in Table 01:.

[0034] Regarding acnegenicity, the total acne count values ​​(papules + pustules) obtained after 28 days of home use of the product of the present invention were compared to the values ​​obtained in the initial evaluation, applying the test method Paired Student's t-test, considering a 95% confidence interval, considering: if the total acne values ​​obtained after 28 days are significantly lower (P < 0.05) than the total acne values ​​obtained at the beginning of the study, the product of the present invention will be classified as “anti-acnegenic” - this indicates that the product of the present invention reduces acne lesions (papules and pustules); if the total acne values ​​obtained after 28 days do not show a significant difference (P ~ 0.05) compared to the total acne values ​​obtained at the beginning of the study, the product of the present invention will be classified as “non-acnegenic” - this indicates that the product of the present invention does not induce or potentiate the appearance of acne (papules and pustules); and if the total acne values ​​obtained after 28 days are significantly higher (P > 0.05) than the total acne values ​​obtained at the beginning of the study, the product of the present invention will be classified as “mild to strongly acnegenic”.Clinically, the product of the present invention was classified as described in Table 02.

[0035] To evaluate skin acceptability in use, 30 people participated in the study, and after 28 days of home use, it was clinically confirmed that 100% of the research participants did not present irritative or allergenic skin reactions, characterized by tingling, edema, sensation of dryness or tightness of the skin and / or appearance of blisters on the skin, resulting from the use of the product of the present invention, with no reports / records of adverse events during the study.

[0036] For the ophthalmological clinical evaluation (ocular acceptability), the research participants were clinically evaluated by the Ophthalmologist at the beginning of the study and after 28 days of home use of the product of this invention. Initially, all research participants included in the study were considered fit to 1 10 to participate in the study, that is, no participant presented any signs or symptoms of irritant or allergenic ocular reactions and / or sensations of discomfort. After 28 days of home use of the product of the present invention, it was clinically confirmed that 100% of the research participants who completed the study did not present irritant or allergenic ocular reactions, characterized by eyelid or periorbital edema, eyelid or periorbital erythema, conjunctival hyperemia, eyelid or periorbital desquamation, or any other signs or symptoms of irritant or allergenic ocular reactions or sensations of discomfort, resulting from the application of the product of the present invention.

[0037] When evaluating the effectiveness of the product of the present invention in improving hydration, firmness, elasticity, evening out skin tone, and reducing pores, wrinkles, and expression lines, other corroborative tests were performed. Assessments of skin hydration, firmness, and elasticity were performed using instrumental corneometry and cutometry techniques, and were assessed at baseline (before starting use of the product of the present invention), after 15 days, and after 30 days of home use. Participants in the study included 21 individuals with an average age of 49 + / - 7 years; 10% had phototype II, 57% phototype III, and 33% phototype IV, according to the Fitzpatrick classification.

[0038] Participants discontinued use of any topical facial products for 72 hours prior to the study. Prior to the study, participants remained for 30 minutes in a climate-controlled environment at 22 ± 2°C and 55% ± 5% relative humidity to perform skin firmness and elasticity measurements using the cutometry technique (Cutometer MPA-580 and Multiprobe Adapter MPA-580, CKeletronics, Germany). Skin firmness was assessed using the Uf (RO) parameter. Skin elasticity was assessed using the Ur / Uf (R7) parameter. Skin hydration was assessed through capacitance measurements using the Corneometry technique (Corneometer 825 and Multiprobe Adapter MPA-580, CKeletronics, Germany). Measurements were obtained at baseline, 15 days after use, and 30 days after use of the product. 1 11

[0039] After analysis, it was found that the product of the present invention provided a significant increase in skin firmness of 5% after 15 days and 15% after 30 days of home use. 76% of the study participants showed an increase in skin firmness after 15 days, and 86% of the study participants showed an improvement in skin firmness after 30 days of home use of the product of the present invention. Regarding elasticity, the product of the present invention provided a significant increase in skin elasticity of 6% after 15 days and 12% after 30 days of home use.

[0040] Skin firmness was also assessed using Cutometry. Measurements were taken using a Cutometer MPA-580 probe with a 2-mm diameter opening and attached to the Multi Probe Adapter, MPA-580. Measurements were taken by applying three cycles of 3 seconds of suction followed by 3 seconds of relaxation using a pressure of 400 mbar. Three measurements were taken at each site at each assessment time (baseline, after 15 days, and after 30 days of treatment).

[0041] Skin firmness was assessed using the Uf parameter, which corresponds to the maximum deformation of the skin after the application of a force. It includes both elastic and viscoelastic deformation of the skin. Increased skin firmness is evidenced by a reduction in the Uf parameter, which represents the viscoelastic deformation of the skin and is related to the movement of interstitial fluid through the fiber network in the dermis.

[0042] Skin elasticity was assessed using the Ur / Uf parameter, which is the ratio of immediate retraction to total skin deformation, including the viscous portion of skin deformation, and corresponds to biological elasticity. Increased skin elasticity is evidenced by an increase in the Ur / Uf parameter, which reflects increased elastic fiber properties.

[0043] From the average values ​​of the Uf parameter, the percentage increase in skin firmness (%AF) was calculated, according to Equation 1, where U corresponds to the average values ​​of the Uf parameter obtained in the basal condition and Ufa to the average values ​​of the Uf parameter obtained after 15 or 30 days. %AF tí - 10ü » (Lffio - v / ufy (Equation 1) 1 12

[0044] From the average values ​​of the Ur / Uf parameter, the percentage increase in skin elasticity (%AE) was calculated, according to Equation 2, where Ur / Uf to corresponds to the average values ​​of the Ur / Uf parameter obtained in the basal condition and Ur / Uf i to the average values ​​of the Ur / Uf parameter obtained after 15 or 30 days. %ÂEt - W0 * (Ur / Uf n - Ur / Uf a) / Ur Uf a (Equation 2)

[0045] The significance of the increase in skin firmness was assessed using a bimodal, paired Student's t-test, considering a 95% confidence interval, to the mean baseline values ​​of the Uf parameter in relation to the values ​​obtained after 15 and 30 days of home use of the product of the present invention. An adequate result is achieved when there is a significant reduction in the 6 / values ​​after treatment, indicating an increase in skin firmness.

[0046] The significance of the increase in skin elasticity was assessed using a bimodal, paired Student's t-test, considering a 95% confidence interval, to the mean baseline values ​​of the Ur / Uf parameter in relation to the values ​​obtained after 15 and 30 days of home use of the product of the present invention. An adequate result is achieved when there is a significant reduction in Ur / Uf values ​​after treatment, indicating an increase in skin firmness.

[0047] Skin hydration was assessed by Corneometry, where capacitance measurements were performed using the Corneometer 825 probe coupled to the Multi Probe Adapter, MPA-580 equipment.

[0048] Concomitantly with the measurements, calculations of the Coefficient of Variation (CV) of the readings obtained were performed. 5 measurements were taken at the site at each evaluation time (baseline, after 15 days and after 30 days of treatment).

[0049] From the capacitance values ​​(7z) the difference in skin hydration (d / z) was calculated, that is, the variation in the capacitance measurements obtained at each evaluation time in relation to the baseline measurements, according to Equation 3, (d / z) is the difference in hydration, h ti is the average of the capacitance measurements obtained after 15 and 30 days, eh t o is the average of the capacitance measurements obtained at the beginning of the study (baseline). zí / z = hti - h# (Equation 3)

[0050] From the values ​​of the hydration difference (d / z) the 1 13 percentage of skin hydration (%H) provided by the product of the present invention, according to Equation 4, where %H ti is the percentage of hydration, H ti is the variation in skin hydration provided by the application of the product of the present invention after 15 and 30 days, and ha is the average of the capacitance measurements obtained at the beginning of the study (baseline). % Ha - (Ah x 100) / ha (Equation 4)

[0051] The effect of the product of the present invention on increasing skin hydration was evaluated using a bimodal, paired Student's t-test method, considering a 95% confidence interval, to the mean baseline capacitance values, in relation to the values ​​obtained after 15 and 30 days of home use of the product of the present invention. An adequate result is achieved when there is a significant increase in capacitance values ​​after treatment, indicating an increase in skin hydration.

[0052] Considering the methodologies presented above, the following results were obtained after evaluating 21 participants, with an average age of 49 + / - 7 years, 10% phototype II, 57% phototype III and 33% phototype IV, according to Fitzpatrick classification.

[0053] Regarding skin firmness, figure 3 illustrates the average values ​​of the Uf parameter obtained during the study, while Table 03 summarizes the results obtained in the statistical analysis to evaluate the effect of the product of the present invention on improving skin firmness.

[0054] According to the results obtained, it was possible to observe that there was a significant reduction (P < 0.05) in the parameter 6 / after 15 and 30 days of home use, which indicates that the use of the product of the present invention provided a significant increase in skin firmness, being 5% after 15 days and 15% after 30 days of home use. Furthermore, it was possible to verify that 76% of the research participants showed an increase in skin firmness after 15 days of home use of the product of the present invention and 86% of the research participants showed an increase in skin firmness 1 14 skin after 30 days of use.

[0055] Regarding skin elasticity, figure 4 illustrates the average values ​​of the Ur / Uf parameter obtained during the study, while Table 04 summarizes the results obtained in the statistical analysis to evaluate the effect of the product of the present invention on improving skin elasticity.

[0056] According to the results obtained, it was possible to observe that there was a significant increase (P<0.05) in the Ur / Uf parameter after 15 and 30 days of home use, which indicates that the use of the product present invention provided a significant increase in skin elasticity, being 6% after 15 days and 12% after 30 days of home use. Furthermore, it was possible to verify that 76% of the research participants showed an increase in skin elasticity after 15 days of home use of the product present invention and 100% of the research participants showed an increase in skin elasticity after 30 days of use.

[0057] Regarding skin hydration by Corneometry, Figures 5 and 6 illustrate, respectively, the mean capacitance ( / z) values ​​and the percentage increase in skin hydration (%H) obtained during the study. Table 5 summarizes the results obtained in the statistical analysis to evaluate the effect of the product of the present invention on improving skin hydration.

[0058] According to the results obtained, it was possible to observe that there was a significant increase (P<0.05) in capacitance values ​​after 15 and 30 days of home use, which indicates that the use of the product present invention provided a significant increase in skin hydration, being 11% after 15 days and 35% after 30 days of home use. Furthermore, it was possible to verify that 100% of the research participants showed an increase in skin hydration after 15 and 30 days of use. 1 15 home.

[0059] Based on the results obtained, it is possible to conclude that the product of the present invention, which is the object of the present patent, has proven effectiveness in terms of the criteria of firmer skin, reduction of skin sagging, increased skin firmness and elasticity, increased skin hydration through deep hydration, maintaining healthy skin water levels and restoring skin water levels.

[0060] To evaluate the perceived efficacy after use of the cosmetic product under normal conditions, a sensory analysis study was conducted. This study involved 63 women with an average age of 49 + / - 7 years, 16% phototype II, 70% phototype III, and 14% phototype IV, according to the Fitzpatrick classification.

[0061] The evaluation of perceived effectiveness via the subjective method was carried out through the application of a questionnaire answered by research participants after 15 and 30 days of using the product.

[0062] The questionnaire consisted of statements about the product's characteristics and perceived effectiveness. Responses were scored using a hedonic scale, each score corresponding to the degree of agreement with the statement. Based on the results of the assessment of the product's perceived effectiveness, the frequency of hedonic scores for each question was analyzed.

[0063] Based on the participants' responses, the following conclusions were obtained: there were no reports or evidence of adverse reactions during the study; 52% stated that the product lasts up to 8 hours; 57% stated that they would definitely buy the product; 31% stated that they would probably buy the product; 72% consider this foundation the best; 100% stated that the product did not cause any discomfort; 94% stated that the product is easy to apply; 81% stated that the product provides a rejuvenating effect in 30 minutes; 93% stated that the product disguises wrinkles; 94% stated that the product disguises expression lines; 93% stated that the product has a comfortable matte effect; 90% felt their skin firmer; 82% felt their skin less saggy; 79% felt their skin 1 16 more lifted; 82% felt their skin healthier; 84% felt their skin looked younger; 88% felt their skin renewed; 93% said the product was not heavy to apply; 93% felt their skin hydrated; 88% felt the product protected their skin (pollution, solar radiation, impurities); 85% felt it evened out their skin tone; 87% felt their skin felt tighter; 85% felt a rejuvenating effect; 93% felt a comfortable matte effect; 96% said the product absorbed quickly; 88% said the product had a light touch; 94% said the product had a velvety touch; 94% said the product left their skin smoother (even); 94% said the product disguised pores; 84% said the product reduced their pores; 93% said the product disguised dark circles and imperfections; 94% said the product corrected minor imperfections and redness without highlighting the lines on their face;90% said the product does not accentuate expression lines; 93% said the product has a light and breathable formula; 87% said the product has a firming effect (rejuvenating effect); 93% said the product keeps the skin shine-free throughout the day; 88% said the product reduces oiliness; 93% said the product leaves the skin feeling hydrated; 85% said the product stimulates the natural luminosity of the face; 87% felt their skin was more even and brighter; 90% said the product did not crack; 82% said it lifted their skin (firmer, healthier, and more harmonious).

[0064] Regarding the product's pleasantness, 94% of the survey participants stated that they generally liked the product they tested “very much”, “very much” and “liked”, with the average rating given to the product being 74%.

[0065] After 30 days of using the product of the present invention, the following results were obtained: 3% stated that the product provides low coverage; 40% stated that the product provides medium coverage; 57% stated that the product provides high coverage; 43% stated that the finish of the foundation is matte (no shine); 32% stated that the finish of the foundation is semi-matte (light shine); 25% stated that the finish of the foundation is glow (dry touch but with shine). 1 17 natural); 68% stated that the product lasts up to 8 hours; 25% stated that they would definitely buy this product; 65% stated that they would probably buy this product; 73% consider this foundation the best; 100% stated that the product did not cause any discomfort; 97% stated that the product is easy to apply; 86% stated that the product provides a rejuvenating effect in 30 minutes; 95% stated that the product disguises wrinkles; 89% stated that the product disguises expression lines; 94% stated that the product has a comfortable matte effect; 90% felt their skin firmer; 84% felt their skin less saggy; 84% felt their skin more lifted; 92% felt their skin healthier; 94% felt their skin looked younger; 87% stated that the product is not heavy to apply; 94% felt their skin was hydrated; 90% felt that the product protected their skin (pollution, solar radiation, impurities); 92% felt that it evened out their skin tone;86% felt their skin tightened; 86% felt a rejuvenating effect; 94% felt a comfortable matte effect; 97% said the product absorbed quickly; 90% said the product had a light touch; 94% said the product had a velvety feel; 95% said the product left their skin smoother (even); 92% said the product disguised pores; 89% said the product reduced pores; 98% said the product disguised dark circles and imperfections; 98% said the product corrected minor imperfections and redness without highlighting facial lines; 97% said the product did not highlight expression lines; 95% said the product had a light and breathable formula; 89% said the product had a firming effect (rejuvenating effect); 97% said the product keeps skin shine-free throughout the day; 94% said the product reduces skin oiliness;97% said the product leaves the skin feeling hydrated; 92% said the product stimulates the face's natural luminosity; 98% felt their skin was more even and illuminated; 97% said the product did not crack; 89% said they felt it lifted their skin (firmer, healthier, more harmonious).

[0066] To evaluate the reduction of wrinkles and expression lines on facial skin, 1 18 image analyses were also performed via VIS IA 7.0. For this purpose, 32 participants were analyzed, with an average age of 49 + / - 7 years, of which 25% were phototype II, 66% were phototype III, and 9% were phototype IV, according to the Fitzpatrick classification. Digital images of the participants' faces were obtained at the beginning of the study, after 15 days, and after 30 days of home use of the product present invention.

[0067] Thus, the following evaluations were obtained: after 15 days of home use of the product, there was a significant reduction (P<0.05) in the score of wrinkles and expression lines of 10.9%, reaching 17.8%, with 78% of the research participants showing a reduction in the intensity of expression wrinkles; and after 30 days of home use of the product, there was a significant reduction (P<0.05) in the score of wrinkles and expression lines of 12.4%, reaching 19.8%, with 69% of the research participants showing a reduction in the intensity of expression wrinkles. It is therefore understood that the product of the present invention provides a reduction in wrinkles and expression lines; provides smoother / tighter skin; fills in wrinkles and expression lines; and reduces the size, quantity, and depth of expression lines.

[0068] The methodology applied to obtain the captured facial images for analysis is performed by VISIA 7.0 equipment, where wrinkles and expression lines are recognized by the software as furrows, folds, or creases. Based on the morphology of each research participant's face, size, and location of wrinkles and fine lines, a region of interest for analysis is determined, obtaining values ​​for wrinkle and expression line intensity, R, whose wrinkle reduction percentage, R%, is calculated according to Equation 5, where R is the wrinkle intensity, R1 being the initials, and R fas finals. (Equation 5)

[0069] The significance of the reduction in wrinkles and expression lines provided by the product of the present invention is evaluated by applying the bimodal, paired, Student's t-test method, considering a 95% confidence interval to the initial values ​​of Wrinkle Intensity Ri in relation to the values ​​obtained after 15 and 30 days of treatment (Rf). The adequate result is achieved when Rf is significantly 1 19 lower than R, (P<0.05), indicating a reduction in wrinkle intensity.

[0070] Thus, figure 7 illustrates the values ​​obtained for wrinkle intensity at the beginning of the study and after 15 days and 30 days of home use of the product of the present invention.

[0071] Figure 8 illustrates an example of the result obtained in the reduction of wrinkles and expression lines by one of the study participants.

[0072] Figure 9 illustrates the average values ​​of skin color variation at the beginning of the study and after 15 days and 30 days of home use of the product of the present invention.

[0073] Thus, the following evaluations were obtained: after 15 days of home use of the product, there was a significant reduction (P<0.05) in skin color variation of 2.2%, reaching 2.9%, with 81% of the research participants showing a reduction in facial skin color variation; and after 30 days of home use of the product, there was a significant reduction (P<0.05) in the skin color variation score of 3.2%, reaching 3.9%, with 94% of the research participants showing a reduction in facial skin color variation.

[0074] Figure 10 illustrates an example of the result obtained in reducing the variation in facial skin color by one of the study participants.

[0075] Thus, according to the present invention, the following technical effects obtained synergistically are proven: - has an immediate rejuvenating (lifting) effect, leaving the skin with the expected result in up to 30 minutes; - provides wrinkle disguise; - provides pore concealment; - provides disguise of expression lines; - provides disguise of dark circles and imperfections; - provides a reduction in expression lines; - reduces the appearance of expression lines; - provides filling of wrinkles and expression lines; - provides a reduction in the size, quantity and depth of expression lines; - stimulates the production of collagen and elastin fibers, improving the elasticity of the 20 skin; - provides lifting and firming of the skin; - reduces sagging skin; - leaves the skin free of impurities through anti-pollution and antioxidant active ingredients; - leaves the skin tighter, firmer and more hydrated; - restores the skin's water levels, hydrating and evening out the tone; - provides visibly tighter and firmer skin; - provides a comfortable soft matte effect; - has a delicate texture; - formula provides rapid absorption and an extremely light and velvety feel; - provides a protective shield with blue light protection; - provides a sun protection factor (SPF) of 15; - provides medium coverage that doesn't crack, leaving the skin more even and illuminated; - dermatologically, ophthalmologically and clinically tested; - non-comedogenic / acne-causing product; and - vegan formulation. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES

[0076] Figure 1 shows the quantification of type 1 procollagen synthesis in an ex vivo human skin culture treated with the product of the present invention.

[0077] Figure 2 shows the quantification of elastin synthesis in an ex vivo human skin culture treated with the product of the present invention.

[0078] Figure 3 illustrates the mean values ​​of the U parameter obtained during the study.

[0079] Figure 4 illustrates the average values ​​of the Ur / Uf parameter obtained during the study.

[0080] Figure 5 illustrates the average capacitance values ​​( / z) obtained during the study.

[0081] Figure 6 illustrates the percentage increase in skin hydration (H%) obtained during the study.

[0082] Figure 7 illustrates the wrinkle intensity values ​​obtained at the beginning of the study. and after 15 days and 30 days of home use of the product of the present invention.

[0083]

[0071] Figure 8 illustrates an example of the result obtained in the reduction of wrinkles and expression lines by one of the study participants.

[0084] Figure 9 illustrates the average values ​​of skin color variation at the beginning of the study and after 15 days and 30 days of home use of the product of the present invention.

[0085] Figure 10 illustrates an example of the result obtained in reducing the variation in facial skin color by one of the study participants. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0086] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition of facial makeup base, from a W / Si emulsion and its respective production process, which aims to improve the appearance of the skin, more specifically, reducing the appearance of wrinkles, balancing the correct amount of skin contraction, film flexibility, contraction resilience, compatibility with other cosmetic products, active ingredients and absence of skin irritation.

[0087] In accordance with the present invention, all percentages and proportions used are by weight of the total composition and all measurements made are at 25°C unless otherwise indicated.

[0088] In an essential mode of execution of the present invention, the formulation ingredients of the cosmetic composition of liquid facial foundation with rejuvenating and anti-aging effect, represented by their respective international nomenclatures (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients - INCT), ranges of use and functions, are presented in Table 06.

[0089] In one embodiment of the present invention, other formulation ingredients may be added to the composition of the liquid facial foundation with rejuvenating and anti-aging effect, such as those presented in Table 07.

[0090] It is worth noting that the attributes obtained and proven by the present invention are surprising for a facial makeup formulation and that the simple combination of the ingredients listed in the concentrations used in this product, in addition to not being known in the state of the art, would not make it obvious to obtain so many benefits of immediate effect and the benefits of treatment for the skin simultaneously.

[0091] The processing of the formulation described below corroborates the achievement of the benefits, with the differentiated texture, with the stability of the product and with the resolution of the technical complaints described in the state of the art, in order to provide compositions and treatment methods that can improve the appearance of the skin, more specifically, reduce the appearance of wrinkles on the skin (with immediate / preventive and also treatment effect), balancing the correct amount of skin contraction, film flexibility, without film whitening effect, contraction resilience, compatibility with other cosmetic products, absence of skin irritation and with the use of vegan ingredients / vegan formula.

[0092] Thus, the present invention further comprises a process for obtaining the cosmetic composition that comprises specific preparation steps. The steps described below comprise the "phases" and their respective ingredients and mass indicated in Tables 06 and 07, presented above.

[0093] Initially, to obtain the oil phase, the preparation steps consist of weighing the components of phase 1 and, using a disperser, for example, a Turrax equipment from IKA, completely dispersing the pigments—evaluating on a slide or paper to ensure complete dispersion; then weighing the components of phase 2, adding them to phase 1, and thoroughly mixing with a mechanical stirrer; weighing the components of phase 3, adding them to the previous phase, that is, to the mixture of phases 1 and 2, and thoroughly mixing with a mechanical stirrer. In this At this point it is necessary to ensure that the gel elastomer is completely mixed.

[0094] In another step, to obtain the aqueous phase, weigh separately and premix the components of phase 4 (preservatives) and set aside to add them to phase 5. Weigh the components of phase 5 separately and mix them completely, paying special attention to the sodium hyaluronate and sodium polystyrene sulfonate powder, using a mechanical stirrer. Finally, add phase 4 to phase 5 and stir until completely mixed.

[0095] For emulsification, pour the aqueous phase over the oil phase, both previously prepared, with constant stirring in a thin, continuous stream (maintaining the viscosity at 400 to 900 rpm). Increase the stirring at the end of the addition if necessary to ensure phase homogeneity (in case of an increase in viscosity). After achieving complete homogenization, add the powders from phase 6 by pulverizing them, emulsifying and homogenizing the mixture for 10 to 20 minutes, preferably 10 minutes, using a mechanical stirrer at a medium speed of 800 to 1000 rpm.

Claims

CLAIMS 1.) “COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR FACIAL MAKEUP BASE WITH FACIAL REJUVENATION AND ANTI-AGING EFFECT”, characterized by comprising in % by mass: 1.0555% to 24%, preferably 3.1225%, of assets, of which preferably: 1.0% to 6.0%, preferably 3%, niacinamide; 0.05% to 10.0%, preferably 0.1%, sodium hyaluronate; 0.005% to 3.0%, preferably 0.0165%, palmitoyl tripeptide-5; and 0.0005% to 5.0%, preferably 0.006%, centella asiatica extract; 1.505% to 12%, preferably 3.7165%, of film formers, of which preferably: 1.0% to 6.0%, preferably 2.8%, of acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymethylacrylate copolymer; 0.5% to 3.0%, preferably 0.9%, of sodium polystyrene sulfonate; and 0.005% to 3.0%, preferably 0.0165%, of biosaccharide gum; 25.0% to 55.0% of vehicle; 10.06% to 40% emollient; 1.61% to 45% dye / pigment; 1.5% to 15% humectant; 1.115% to 18% opacifier; 1.0% to 10.0% sunscreen; 1.12% to 12.5% ​​stabilizer; 1.0% to 15.0% solvent; 0.5% to 3.0% emulsifier; 1.05% to 11% of conditioning; 0.1% to 5.0% viscosity regulator; 0.1% to 3.0% of other assets; 0.2% to 1.2% preservative; 0.15% to 8% thickener; 0.05% to 5.0% of other film formers; 0.01% to 1.5% fragrance / perfume; 0.05011% to 4.5% antioxidant; 0.005% to 1.5% solubilizer; and 0.001% to 0.5% chelator. 2.) “COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR FACIAL MAKEUP BASE WITH FACIAL REJUVENATION AND ANTI-AGING EFFECT”, according to claim 1, characterized by comprising the mass % of: 25.0% to 55.0%, preferably 38.755%, of vehicle, preferably water; 10.06% to 40%, preferably 21.32238%, of emollient, of which preferably: 10.0% to 30.0%, preferably 21.0584%, of dimethicone; 0.05% to 5.0%, preferably 0.19398%, of sunflower seed oil; and 0.01% to 5.0%, preferably 0.07%, of Cl 2-15 alkyl benzoate; 1.61% to 45%, preferably 7.67936%, of dye / pigment, of which preferably: 1.0% to 15.0%, preferably 5.3376%, titanium dioxide / CI 77891; 0.5% to 10.0%, preferably 1.90464%, yellow iron oxide / CI 77492; 0.1% to 10.0%, preferably 0.31488%, red iron oxide / CI 77491; and 0.01% to 10.0%, preferably 0.12224%, black iron oxide / CI 77499; 1.5% to 15%, preferably 6.4895%, of humectant, of which preferably: 1.0 to 10.0%, preferably 4.9895%, of butylene glycol; and 0.5 to 5.0%, preferably 1.5%, of glycerin; 1.115% to 18%, preferably 3.5%, of opacifier, of which preferably: 1.0% to 5.0%, preferably 2.91%, dimenticone / dimethicone vinyl crosspolymer; 0.1% to 5.0%, preferably 0.4825%, mica; 0.01% to 5.0%, preferably 0.09%, silica; and 0.005% to 3.0%, preferably 0.0175%, lauroyl lysine; 1.0% to 10.0%, preferably 2.49%, of sunscreen, preferably zinc oxide; 1.12% to 12.5%, preferably 3.5422%, of stabilizer, of which preferably: 1.0% to 5.0%, preferably 2.4%, dimethicone crosspolymer; 0.1% to 2.0%, preferably 1.0%, sodium chloride; 0.01% to 2.5%, preferably 0.0922%, aluminum dimyristate; and 0.01% to 3.0%, preferably 0.05%, sodium sulfate; 1.0% to 15.0%, preferably 2.05%, of solvent, preferably isododecane; 0.5% to 3.0%, preferably 1.5%, of emulsifier, preferably PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone; 1.05% to 11%, preferably 2.58469%, of conditioning, of which preferably: 0.5% to 3.0%, preferably 1.32%, of butyl octyl salicylate; 0.5% to 5.0%, preferably 1.15625%, of vegetable oil; and 0.05% to 3.0%, preferably 0.10844%, of disodium stearoyl glutamate; 0.1% to 5.0%, preferably 0.72%, of viscosity regulator, preferably dimethicone / PEG-10 / 1 5 crosspolymer; 0.1% to 3.0%, preferably 0.69375%, of other active ingredients, preferably grape seed oil; 0.2% to 1.2%, preferably 0.9225%, of preservative, of which preferably: 0.1% to 0.6%, preferably 0.5225%, of phenoxyethanol; and 0.1% to 0.6%, preferably 0.4%, of benzyl alcohol; 0.15% to 8%, preferably 0.45%, of thickener, of which preferably: 0.1 to 5.0%, preferably 0.3125%, of disteardimonium hectorite; and 0.05 to 3.0%, preferably 0.1375%, of propylene carbonate; 0.05% to 5.0%, preferably 0.24%, of other film formers, preferably triethoxycaprylyls ilane; 0.01% to 1.5%, preferably 0.1%, fragrance / perfume; 0.05011% to 4.5%, preferably 0.10062%, of antioxidant, of which preferably: 0.05% to 1.5%, preferably 0.1%, of tocopheryl acetate; 0.0001% to 1.5%, preferably 0.0006%, of tocopherol; and 0.00001% to 1.5%, preferably 0.00002%, of ascorbyl palmitate; 0.005% to 1.5%, preferably 0.015%, of solubilizer, preferably dipropylene glycol; and 0.001% to 0.5%, preferably 0.006%, of chelator, of which sodium citrate is preferably present. 3.) “PROCESS FOR OBTAINING THE COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR FACIAL MAKEUP BASE WITH FACIAL REJUVENATION AND ANTI-AGING EFFECT”, as defined in claim 2, characterized by comprising the following steps: to obtain the oily phase: weigh the components of a phase 1, comprising Acrylate / Polytrimethylsiloxymethylacrylate copolymer, Dimethicone, Titanium Dioxide / CI 77891, Yellow iron oxide / CI 77492, Red iron oxide / CI 77491, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Black iron oxide / CI 77499, Disodium stearoyl glutamate, and Aluminum dimyristate; completely disperse the pigments, evaluating the complete dispersion on a slide or paper; separately weigh the components of a phase 2, comprising Zinc oxide, Isododecane, Butyl octyl salicylate, Vegetable oil, Grape seed oil, Disteardimonium hectorite, Propylene carbonate, Tocopheryl acetate, and C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, add them to phase 1 and homogenize completely with aid of a mechanical stirrer; weigh the components of phase 3, comprising Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Dimethicone / PEG-10 / 15 Crosspolymer, Dipropylene Glycol, Sodium Citrate, and Tocopherol, add them to the previous phase, that is, to the mixture of phases 1 and 2, and homogenize completely with the aid of a mechanical stirrer, ensuring the complete mixing of the gel elastomer; to obtain the aqueous phase: weigh separately and pre-mix the components of phase 4, comprising Phenoxyethanol and Benzyl Alcohol, and set aside; separately weigh the components of a phase 5, comprising Niacinamide, Sodium polystyrene sulfonate, Sodium hyaluronate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Biosaccharide gum, Water, Butyl glycol, Glycerin, Sodium chloride, and Sodium sulfate, and homogenize them completely, paying special attention to the sodium hyaluronate and sodium polystyrene sulfonate powder, with the aid of a mechanical stirrer;Add phase 4 to phase 5 and stir until completely homogenized; for emulsification: pour the aqueous phase over the oil phase, both previously prepared, with constant stirring and in a thin, continuous stream, maintaining the viscosity at 400 to 900 rpm; increase the stirring at the end of the addition to ensure the homogeneity of the phases, if there is an increase in viscosity; after reaching complete homogenization, add the powders of phase 6, comprising Centella Asiatica Extract; Dimenticone / Dimethicone Vinyl Crosspolymer, Mica, Sunflower Seed Oil, Fragrance, Silica, Lauroyl Lysine, and Ascorbyl Palmitate, pulverizing them, emulsifying and homogenizing the mixture for 10 to 20 minutes with the aid of a mechanical stirrer at an average speed of 800 to 1000 rpm.;

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