Water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic
Patent Information
- Application Number
- PCT/JP2024/026069
- Authority / Receiving Office
- WO · WO
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2023-08-04
- Filing Date
- 2024-07-22
- Publication Date
- 2025-02-13
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Figure JPOXMLDOC01-APPB-T000001
Abstract
Description
Water-in-oil emulsion cosmetics
[0001] The present invention relates to a water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic.
[0002] In general, water-in-oil emulsion cosmetics such as lipstick are mainly composed of various oily ingredients and powders such as colorants, and in order to achieve a comfortable feel and ease of use, investigations have been conducted into the blending of oily ingredients and powders with various properties. On the other hand, if the amount of oily ingredients in a water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic increases, the glossiness becomes stronger and it becomes difficult to achieve a matte finish.
[0003] For example, Patent Document 1 describes a cosmetic (lipstick) containing a low-melting point wax, a plate-like powder, and a spherical powder in predetermined amounts to achieve a natural matte finish. However, there is still a demand for water-in-oil emulsion cosmetics that are easy to use and can achieve a matte finish.
[0004] Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2000-119134
[0005] Generally, when improving the desired properties of a water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic depending on the intended use, it becomes difficult to balance these properties with other properties, making it difficult to simultaneously satisfy all properties. Therefore, there remains a demand for water-in-oil emulsion cosmetics that simultaneously improve many properties while achieving such a balance.
[0006] As a result of intensive research into solving the above problems, the present inventors discovered that the above problems can be solved by blending a specific amount of a specific powdery oil in a water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic, and thus completed the present invention.
[0007] According to the present invention, the following inventions are provided: [1] A water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic comprising (I) an oil component and (II) an aqueous component, wherein the (I) oil component comprises (A) powdered oil, (B) a polar oil, (C) a wax component, and (D) a surfactant, and the (A) powdered oil contains 50% by mass or more of one or more XXX triglycerides having a fatty acid residue X with x carbon atoms at positions 1 to 3, where x is an integer selected from 16 to 20, when the total triglyceride content is taken as 100% by mass, wherein the content of the (A) powdered oil is 1% by mass or more and 40% by mass or less, relative to the total amount of the water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic. [2] The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic according to [1], wherein the (A) powdered oil has x carbon atoms, an integer selected from 16 to 18. [3] The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic according to [1] or [2], wherein the melting point of the (A) powdery oil or fat is 40°C or higher and 95°C or lower. [4] The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic according to any of [1] to [3], wherein the content of the (I) oily component is 45% by mass or higher and 99% by mass or lower, relative to the total amount of the water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic. [5] The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic according to any of [1] to [4], wherein the content of the (D) surfactant is 0.1% by mass or higher and 10% by mass or lower, relative to the total amount of the water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic. [6] The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic according to any of [1] to [5], wherein the content of the (II) aqueous component is 1% by mass or higher and 55% by mass or lower, relative to the total amount of the water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic. [7] The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic according to any of [1] to [6], further comprising a colorant. [8] The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic according to any one of [1] to [7], wherein the water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic is a solid. [9] The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic according to any one of [1] to [7], wherein the water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic is a lipstick.
[0008] According to the present invention, there is provided a water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic that is easy to use and can achieve a matte finish.
[0009] [Water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic] The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic according to the present invention comprises (I) an oil component and (II) an aqueous component, and the (I) oil component comprises a specific amount of (A) powdery oil. The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic according to the present invention is preferably solid. The term "solid" in the present invention is to be interpreted in the sense commonly used in the field of cosmetics, and can be defined, for example, as a form or state in which the water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic as a whole does not exhibit fluidity at temperatures below 40°C and does not exhibit significant deformation under normal storage conditions. By comprising a specific amount of (A) powdery oil, the water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic according to the present invention is able to achieve a matte finish while being excellent in usability. Each component contained in the water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic according to the present invention will be described in detail below.
[0010] (I) Oily Component The oily component (I) of the water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic according to the present invention comprises (A) powdery oil, (B) polar oil, (C) a wax component, and (D) a surfactant. The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic according to the present invention may further comprise other components depending on the purpose. The content of the oily component (I) is preferably from 45% to 99% by mass, more preferably from 50% to 90% by mass, even more preferably from 55% to 85% by mass, and even more preferably from 60% to 80% by mass, relative to the total amount of the water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic.
[0011] ((A) Powdered Oils and Fats) <XXX Triglyceride> The powdered oil and fat of the present invention comprises one or more XXX triglycerides having a fatty acid residue X with a carbon number x at positions 1 to 3 of glycerin. In the XXX triglycerides, the fatty acid residues X are the same as each other. Here, the carbon number x is an integer selected from 16 to 20, preferably an integer selected from 16 to 18, and more preferably 18. The fatty acid residue X may be a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid residue. Specific examples of the fatty acid residue X include, but are not limited to, residues of palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid, etc. More preferred fatty acids are palmitic acid and stearic acid, and even more preferred is stearic acid. The content of the XXX triglyceride, when the total triglyceride content in the powdered oil or fat is taken as 100% by mass, is in a range with a lower limit of 50% by mass or more, preferably 60% by mass or more, more preferably 70% by mass or more, and even more preferably 80% by mass or more, and an upper limit of preferably 100% by mass or less, more preferably 99% by mass or less, and even more preferably 95% by mass or less. One or more types of XXX triglycerides can be used, preferably one or two types, and more preferably one type is used. When two or more types of XXX triglycerides are used, the total value represents the content of XXX triglycerides.
[0012] <Other Triglycerides> The powdered oil and fat may contain other triglycerides in addition to the above-mentioned XXX triglycerides, as long as the effects of the present invention are not impaired. The other triglycerides may be multiple types of triglycerides, and may be synthetic or natural oils and fats. Examples of synthetic oils and fats include glyceryl tricaprylate and glyceryl tricaprate. Examples of natural oils and fats include cocoa butter, sunflower oil, rapeseed oil, soybean oil, and cottonseed oil. The content of the other triglycerides may be, for example, 1% by mass or more, or about 5 to 50% by mass, when the total triglyceride content in the powdered oil and fat is taken as 100% by mass. The content of other triglycerides is, for example, 0 to 50% by mass, preferably 5 to 40% by mass, more preferably 10 to 30% by mass, and even more preferably 15 to 25% by mass, relative to the total triglyceride content in the powdered oil or fat, taken as 100% by mass.
[0013] <Characteristics of Powdered Oil and Fat> The powdered oil and fat in the present invention is a solid oil and fat in powder form at room temperature (20°C). The melting point of the powdered oil and fat is preferably 40°C or higher and 95°C or lower, more preferably 45°C or higher and 90°C or lower, even more preferably 50°C or higher and 85°C or lower, and even more preferably 55°C or higher and 80°C or lower. The melting point of the powdered oil and fat can be measured by a conventional method using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC).
[0014] The powdered oil has the form of a flake-containing particle having a plurality of flakes present on the surface. The flake-containing particle has an irregular shape with surface irregularities formed due to the presence and accumulation of a plurality of flakes on the surface. It is expected that the interior of the flake-containing particle also has a structure in which a plurality of flakes are gathered. The average particle size (effective diameter) of the particle is, for example, preferably 0.5 to 200 μm, more preferably 1 to 100 μm, even more preferably 1 to 50 μm, and especially preferably 1 to 30 μm. Here, the average particle size (effective diameter) refers to the volume-average diameter [MV]. The volume-based particle size distribution of the powdered oil is measured by dry measurement using a particle size distribution measuring device (e.g., manufactured by Shimadzu Corporation, device name: SALD-2300) based on the laser diffraction scattering method (ISO 13320, JIS Z 8825-1) to determine the volume-average diameter [MV], and the obtained volume-average diameter [MV] is defined as the average particle size. The volume mean diameter [MV] can be calculated using the following formula using the particle diameter, particle volume, and sum of the particle volumes: Volume mean diameter [MV] = sum of (particle diameter x particle volume) / sum of particle volumes. The effective diameter refers to the particle diameter of a sphere when the measured diffraction pattern of the crystal to be measured matches the theoretical diffraction pattern obtained assuming a spherical shape. Thus, in the case of the laser diffraction scattering method, the effective diameter is calculated by matching the theoretical diffraction pattern obtained assuming a spherical shape with the measured diffraction pattern, so that the measurement can be performed using the same principle whether the object to be measured is plate-shaped or spherical.
[0015] Here, the dimensions (long side, short side, thickness) of the flakes on the particle surface of the powdered oil or fat can be average values obtained by measuring the size from an electron microscope photograph. The average length of the long sides of the flakes is, for example, preferably 0.01 to 5 μm, more preferably 0.05 to 4 μm, even more preferably 0.1 to 3 μm, and even more preferably 0.2 to 2.5 μm. The average length of the short sides of the flakes is shorter than the long sides, for example, preferably 0.01 to 4 μm, more preferably 0.05 to 3 μm, even more preferably 0.1 to 2 μm, and even more preferably 0.2 to 1 μm. The average thickness of the flakes is shorter than the long sides or short sides, for example, preferably 0.005 to 0.5 μm, more preferably 0.01 to 0.3 μm, even more preferably 0.02 to 0.2 μm, and even more preferably 0.03 to 0.15 μm.
[0016] As the powdered oil and fat, commercially available products can be used. For example, Conafat #2 manufactured by Nisshin Oillio Group, Ltd. is preferably used as the powdered oil and fat.
[0017] Patent No. 7003313 can be referred to for a method for producing powdered oils and fats. For example, a solid oil and fat composition raw material containing one or more XXX triglycerides having a fatty acid residue X with a carbon number x at positions 1 to 3 of glycerin is heated, without melting, i.e., at a temperature below the melting point, to a specific temperature suited to the type of XXX triglyceride to convert the oil and fat components in the raw material into β-type oils and fats, and then the raw materials are collided and pulverized to obtain powdered oils and fats. Specifically, powdered oils and fats can be produced by the following steps (a) to (C). (a) preparing a solid oil-and-fat composition raw material containing XXX triglycerides; (b) heating the solid oil-and-fat composition raw material obtained in step (a) at a temperature below the melting point, preferably without melting, to convert the oil-and-fat components in the solid oil-and-fat composition raw material into β-type oil-and-fat, thereby obtaining a β-type oil-and-fat-containing composition raw material; and (c) pulverizing the β-type oil-and-fat-containing composition raw material obtained in step (b) by collision of the raw materials with each other without mechanical crushing, thereby obtaining a powdered oil-and-fat composition. The above steps (a) to (c) are described below.
[0018] (a) Raw Material Preparation Step The solid oil / fat composition raw material containing an XXX triglyceride prepared in step (a) can be produced based on a conventional method for producing oils and fats, such as XXX triglycerides, containing one or more XXX triglycerides having a fatty acid residue X with a carbon number of x at positions 1 to 3 of glycerin, or can be readily obtained commercially. The solid oil / fat composition raw material may be in any form, such as powder, flakes, or blocks. Here, the XXX triglyceride specified by the carbon number x and fatty acid residue X may be the same as that of the final target powdered oil / fat, except for the crystalline polymorphism. In other words, the details of the XXX triglyceride can be defined as described above, except that it does not matter whether the crystalline polymorphism is β. The raw material may contain α-type oils and fats, β'-type oils and fats, or β-type oils and fats. The solid fat and oil composition raw material may contain one or more types of XXX triglycerides as described above, preferably one or two types, and more preferably one type. Specifically, for example, the XXX triglycerides can be produced by direct synthesis using a fatty acid or a fatty acid derivative and glycerin. Methods for directly synthesizing XXX triglycerides include (i) a method of directly esterifying a fatty acid X having x carbon atoms with glycerin (direct ester synthesis), (ii) a method of reacting a fatty acid alkyl (e.g., fatty acid methyl and fatty acid ethyl) in which the carboxyl group of a fatty acid X having x carbon atoms is bonded to an alkoxyl group with glycerin under basic or acidic catalytic conditions (transesterification synthesis using fatty acid alkyl), and (iii) a method of reacting a fatty acid halide (e.g., fatty acid chloride and fatty acid bromide) in which the hydroxyl group of the carboxyl group of a fatty acid X having x carbon atoms is substituted with a halogen atom with glycerin under a basic catalyst (acid halide synthesis). XXX triglycerides can be produced by any of the above-mentioned methods (i) to (iii). From the viewpoint of ease of production, however, (i) direct ester synthesis or (ii) transesterification synthesis using a fatty acid alkyl is preferred, and (i) direct ester synthesis is more preferred.
[0019] When producing XXX triglycerides by (i) direct ester synthesis, from the viewpoint of production efficiency, it is preferable to use 3 to 5 moles, and more preferably 3 to 4 moles, of fatty acid X or fatty acid Y per mole of glycerin. The reaction temperature in (i) direct ester synthesis of XXX triglycerides may be any temperature at which the water produced by the esterification reaction can be removed from the system, and is, for example, preferably 120°C to 300°C, more preferably 150°C to 270°C, and even more preferably 180°C to 250°C. By carrying out the reaction at 180 to 250°C, XXX triglycerides can be produced particularly efficiently.
[0020] In the (i) direct ester synthesis of XXX triglycerides, a catalyst that promotes the esterification reaction may be used. Examples of catalysts include acid catalysts and alkaline earth metal alkoxides. The amount of catalyst used is preferably about 0.001 to 1 mass% based on the total mass of the reaction raw materials. In the (i) direct ester synthesis of XXX triglycerides, after the reaction, the catalyst and unreacted raw materials can be removed by performing known purification treatments such as water washing, alkaline deoxidation and / or reduced pressure deoxidation, and adsorption treatment. Furthermore, the resulting reaction product can be further purified by performing decolorization and deodorization treatment.
[0021] The amount of XXX triglyceride contained in the solid oil / fat composition raw material is, for example, 100 to 50% by mass, preferably 95 to 55% by mass, more preferably 90 to 60% by mass, and even more preferably 85 to 65% by mass, when the total mass of all triglycerides contained in the powdered oil / fat is taken as 100% by mass.
[0022] <Other Triglycerides> In addition to the above-mentioned XXX triglycerides, other triglycerides that can be used as raw materials for the solid oil and fat composition containing XXX triglycerides may include various triglycerides as long as the effects of the present invention are not impaired. Examples of other triglycerides include X2Y triglycerides in which one of the fatty acid residues X in the above-mentioned XXX triglycerides is substituted with fatty acid residue Y, and XY2 triglycerides in which two of the fatty acid residues X in the above-mentioned XXX triglycerides are substituted with fatty acid residue Y. The amount of the above-mentioned other triglycerides is, for example, 0 to 50% by mass, preferably 5 to 45% by mass, more preferably 10 to 40% by mass, and even more preferably 15 to 35% by mass, when the total mass of all triglycerides is taken as 100% by mass.
[0023] Furthermore, as the raw material for the solid fat and oil composition of the present invention, instead of directly synthesizing the above-mentioned XXX triglycerides, a naturally-occurring triglyceride composition may be hydrogenated, transesterified, or fractionated. Examples of naturally-occurring triglyceride compositions include rapeseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, high oleic sunflower oil, safflower oil, palm stearin, and mixtures thereof. Particularly preferred are hydrogenated oils, partially hydrogenated oils, and extremely hydrogenated oils of these naturally-occurring triglyceride compositions. More preferred are hard palm stearin, extremely hydrogenated high oleic sunflower oil, extremely hydrogenated rapeseed oil, and extremely hydrogenated soybean oil, with extremely hydrogenated rapeseed oil being even more preferred.
[0024] Furthermore, examples of the raw material for the solid oil and fat composition of the present invention include commercially available triglyceride compositions or synthetic oils and fats. For example, examples of triglyceride compositions include hard palm stearin (manufactured by Nisshin Oillio Group, Ltd.), extremely hydrogenated rapeseed oil (manufactured by Yokoseki Oil & Fat Industries Co., Ltd.), and extremely hydrogenated soybean oil (manufactured by Yokoseki Oil & Fat Industries Co., Ltd.). Examples of synthetic oils and fats include tripalmitin (manufactured by Tokyo Chemical Industry Co., Ltd.), tristearin (manufactured by Sigma-Aldrich Co., Ltd.), tristearin (manufactured by Tokyo Chemical Industry Co., Ltd.), and triarachidin (manufactured by Tokyo Chemical Industry Co., Ltd.).
[0025] <Other Components> In addition to the triglyceride, the solid oil / fat composition raw material may optionally contain other components such as partial glycerides, fatty acids, antioxidants, emulsifiers, solvents such as water, etc. The amount of these other components can be any amount as long as it does not impair the effects of the present invention, but for example, when the total mass of the oil / fat composition raw material is taken as 100 mass%, it is 0 to 5 mass%, preferably 0 to 2 mass%, more preferably 0 to 1 mass%.
[0026] When the solid oil / fat composition raw material contains a plurality of components, they may be mixed arbitrarily. The mixing may be performed by any known mixing method as long as a homogeneous reaction substrate can be obtained, and for example, a paddle mixer, an azihomogenizer mixer, a disperser mixer, a V-type mixer, a W-type mixer, a ribbon mixer, etc.
[0027] (b) Step of converting to β-type fats Before step (c), the crystalline polymorphism of the fat components in the solid fat composition raw material prepared in step (a) is converted to β-type fats. The fact that the fat components have been converted to include β-type fats in the step of converting to β-type fats can be determined from the intensity ratio of the characteristic peak of β-type to the characteristic peak of α-type among the X-ray diffraction peaks: [intensity of characteristic peak of β-type / (intensity of characteristic peak of α-type + intensity of characteristic peak of β-type)] (peak intensity ratio). Specifically, based on the findings of the above-mentioned X-ray diffraction measurement, the ratio of the peak intensity at 2θ = 19° (4.6 Å), which is a characteristic peak of β-type fats, to the peak intensity at 2θ = 21° (4.2 Å), which is a characteristic peak of α-type fats, is calculated as: peak intensity around 19° / (peak intensity around 19° + peak intensity around 21°) [peak intensity around 4.6 Å / (peak intensity around 4.6 Å + peak intensity around 4.2 Å)]. This is used as an index representing the amount of β-type fats present in the above-mentioned fat and oil component, and it can be understood that "β-type fats are contained." In other words, if this peak intensity ratio is 0, it is understood that all are α-type fats, and if the peak intensity ratio is 1, it is understood that all are β-type fats, and if the peak intensity ratio is a number close to 1, it is understood that there is a lot of β-type fats. In the present invention, it is ideal that all of the above-mentioned fat and oil components are β-type fats (i.e., peak intensity ratio = 1). Therefore, in the step of converting the fat into a β-type fat, the treatment is carried out so that the peak intensity ratio of the fat and oil component is preferably 0.6 to 1, more preferably 0.7 to 1, even more preferably 0.8 to 1, still more preferably 0.9 to 1, and particularly preferably 0.95 to 1.
[0028] Various methods can be used to convert the oil / fat composition raw material into a β-type oil / fat. A typical method is to heat the solid oil / fat composition raw material obtained in step (a) at a temperature below its melting point without melting it. The "melting point" referred to here refers to the melting point of the oil / fat composition raw material, more preferably the melting point of the oil / fat components in the oil / fat composition raw material. It is important that the oil / fat composition raw material does not melt, that is, that the oil / fat components are converted into a β-type oil / fat without melting. The heating temperature is preferably maintained constant throughout the heating process. Here, "constant" means, for example, controlling the temperature change to ±3°C, preferably ±1°C, more preferably ±0.5°C. Furthermore, it is preferable to heat the solid oil / fat composition raw material at a temperature at which the oil / fat components in the solid oil / fat composition raw material do not melt throughout the heating process. The step of heating the solid oil / fat composition raw material to convert it into a β-type oil / fat can be performed by placing the solid oil / fat composition raw material in a thermostatic bath and leaving it stationary. Alternatively, the raw material can be heated while being stirred using a machine such as a horizontal stirring tank, i.e., without being left stationary. The method of heating without standing has the advantage of increasing production efficiency because it shortens the time required to convert the fat into a β-type fat. For example, the heating temperature is suitably set to a temperature 1 to 30°C lower than the melting point of a solid fat / oil composition raw material containing an fat / oil component including one or more XXX triglycerides having a fatty acid residue X with a carbon number of x at positions 1 to 3 of glycerin, preferably a temperature 2 to 27°C lower than the melting point, more preferably a temperature 3 to 23°C lower than the melting point, and even more preferably a temperature 3 to 19°C lower than the melting point. For example, in the case of an XXX triglyceride having three stearic acid residues and a carbon number of 18, the melting point of β-type fats and oils is 74°C, so the heating temperature is preferably 1 to 30°C lower than the melting point (i.e., 44 to 73°C), more preferably 2 to 27°C lower than the melting point (i.e., 47 to 72°C), even more preferably 3 to 23°C lower than the melting point (i.e., 51 to 71°C), and even more preferably 3 to 19°C lower than the melting point (i.e., 55 to 71°C). Furthermore, in the case of an XXX triglyceride in which the carbon number x is 16, the heating temperature is preferably 36 to 65°C, more preferably 39 to 64°C.When the carbon number x is 20, the heating temperature is preferably 48 to 77°C, and more preferably 51 to 76°C. Furthermore, for example, in the case of flaky extremely hardened rapeseed oil having a melting point of 67°C, the heating temperature is suitably set to a temperature 1 to 30°C lower than the melting point (i.e., 37 to 66°C), preferably a temperature 2 to 27°C lower than the melting point (i.e., 40 to 65°C), more preferably a temperature 3 to 23°C lower than the melting point (i.e., 44 to 64°C), and even more preferably a temperature 3 to 19°C lower than the melting point (i.e., 48 to 64°C). The heating time may be sufficient to convert the oil into a β-type oil, and is suitably, for example, 10 minutes or more, preferably 20 minutes to 120 hours, more preferably 30 minutes to 100 hours, and even more preferably 30 to 72 hours.
[0029] Step (b) can be performed with the solid oil / fat composition raw material in a stationary or non-stationary state. Heating in a stationary state can be achieved by heating the solid oil / fat composition raw material in a thermostatic chamber, a thermostatic bath, or the like. To shorten the heating time in a stationary state, it is preferable to heat the raw material in a state in which heat is transferred to the entire raw material, and to achieve this state, it is advisable to reduce the height of the pile of raw material during heating. As a method for heating with a reduced pile height of raw material, for example, a method can be mentioned in which the solid oil / fat composition raw material is spread out so as to reduce the pile height in a stainless steel container having a length of 10 to 100 cm, a width of 10 to 100 cm, and a height of 5 to 30 cm, and then heated in a thermostatic chamber, a thermostatic bath, or the like. Note that if there is no need to shorten the heating time, there is no need to reduce the pile height of the raw material. The heating time when heating in a stationary state is not particularly limited as long as it is a time sufficient for the oil and fat components to be converted into β-type oils and fats, and is, for example, preferably 20 minutes or more, more preferably 30 minutes to 120 hours, even more preferably 10 to 100 hours, and even more preferably 15 to 72 hours. If the height of the pile of the solid oil and fat composition raw material to be heat-treated is low and heat is transferred quickly to the entire raw material, it can be converted into β-type oil and fats in a short time, but if the height of the pile of the raw material is high and heat is transferred slowly to the entire raw material, heating for a longer time is required.
[0030] An example of heating in a non-stationary state is a method in which a solid oil / fat composition raw material is heated while being stirred using a horizontal stirring tank, etc. The heating time when heating in a stationary state is not particularly limited as long as it is a time sufficient for the oil / fat components to be converted into β-type oil / fat, but is suitably, for example, 10 minutes or more, 15 minutes or more, or 20 minutes or more, and the upper limit of the heating time is preferably 5 hours or less, more preferably 2 hours or less. A shorter heating time is preferred from the viewpoint of work efficiency, etc.
[0031] (c) Step of obtaining a powdered oil or fat composition by pulverizing raw materials by collision The raw materials for the β-type oil-containing composition obtained in step (b) above can be pulverized by colliding the raw materials with each other using an airflow pulverizer or the like without mechanical pulverization, thereby obtaining a powdered oil or fat composition. Pulverization by colliding raw materials with each other can be performed using an airflow pulverizer or the like without mechanical pulverization. "Mechanical pulverization" means mechanical pulverization using a pulverizing tool such as an impeller or hammer attached to a cyclone mill or hammer mill. "Without mechanical pulverization" is interpreted as meaning that mechanical pulverization is not performed simultaneously with "pulverization by colliding raw materials with each other." In the present invention, although it is acceptable to pulverize the raw materials obtained in step (b) with a pulverizer and to perform mechanical pulverization as the initial pulverization step, it is appropriate that the pulverization immediately before obtaining the final powdered oil or fat composition is performed only by colliding the raw materials with each other, without any mechanical pulverization at all. Here, "airflow pulverization" refers to a method of pulverizing an object by using an airflow, such as compressed air, to cause collisions between objects moving due to the airflow. Unlike mechanical pulverization methods, this method involves colliding objects with each other, thereby preventing changes in the surface characteristics of the pulverized particles, such as smoothing caused by hammer surfaces, and thereby enabling the production of finer particles. Furthermore, the use of an airflow pulverizer equipped with a classifier allows for the production of particles with a desired particle size. Examples of "airflow pulverizers" include fluidized bed jet mills and counter-type jet mills. A more specific example of an airflow pulverizer is the "Counter Jet Mill 200AFG" pulverizer manufactured by Hosokawa Micron Corporation. For example, when using the counter-jet mill, the classification speed can be set to, for example, 1,800 to 12,000 rpm. Since increasing the classification speed tends to result in a smaller average particle size of the resulting powdered oil or fat composition, the average particle size of the resulting particles can be adjusted by changing the classification speed. It is appropriate for step (c) to be performed immediately before the final powdered oil or fat composition is obtained.As long as the raw materials are finally pulverized by collision with each other and the final powdered oil or fat composition is obtained without subsequent mechanical pulverization, the raw materials may be pulverized using a pulverizer or the like before pulverization using an airflow pulverizer. Furthermore, the pulverization of the oil or fat composition raw material converted into a β-type oil or fat by heating may be performed after the product temperature has been cooled to room temperature (25°C ± 5°C).
[0032] The content of the powdered oil is from 1 to 40% by mass, preferably from 2.5 to 30% by mass, more preferably from 3 to 20% by mass, and even more preferably from 4 to 10% by mass, relative to the total amount of the water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic. If the content of the powdered oil falls within the above range, a water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic that is excellent in usability and can achieve a matte finish can be obtained.
[0033] (B) Polar Oil The polar oil is not particularly limited, and any liquid polar oil that has been conventionally known as a cosmetic ingredient can be used. Examples of liquid polar oils include ester oil, silicone oil, and other liquid oils and fats.
[0034] Examples of ester oils include isopropyl myristate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, myristyl myristate, decyl oleate, hexyldecyl dimethyloctanoate, cetyl lactate, myristyl lactate, lanolin acetate, isocetyl stearate, isocetyl isostearate, cholesteryl 12-hydroxystearate, ethylene glycol di-2-ethylhexanoate, dipentaerythritol fatty acid esters, N-alkyl glycol monoisostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, diisostearyl malate, glycerin di-2-heptylundecanoate, trimethylolpropane tri-2-ethylhexanoate, trimethylolpropane triisostearate, and pentaerythritol tetra-2-ethylhexanoate. , Glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate, Glyceryl trioctanoate, Glyceryl triisopalmitate, Trimethylolpropane triisostearate, Cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, Glyceryl trimyristate, Tri-2-heptylundecanoate glyceride, Castor oil fatty acid methyl ester, Oleyl oleate, Acetoglyceride, 2-heptyl palmitate undecyl, diisobutyl adipate, N-lauroyl-L-glutamic acid 2-octyldodecyl ester, di-2-heptylundecyl adipate, ethyl laurate, di-2-ethylhexyl sebacate, 2-hexyldecyl myristate, 2-hexyldecyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate, 2-ethylhexyl succinate, triethyl citrate, and the like.
[0035] Examples of silicone oils include chain polysiloxanes (e.g., dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, diphenylpolysiloxane, etc.), cyclic polysiloxanes (e.g., octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, etc.), silicone resins that form a three-dimensional network structure, silicone rubber, various modified polysiloxanes (e.g., amino-modified polysiloxane, polyether-modified polysiloxane, alkyl-modified polysiloxane, fluorine-modified polysiloxane, etc.), and acrylic silicones.
[0036] Other liquid oils and fats include, for example, avocado oil, camellia oil, turtle oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, egg yolk oil, sesame oil, persic oil, wheat germ oil, camellia oil, castor oil, linseed oil, safflower oil, cottonseed oil, perilla oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, tea seed oil, Japanese kaya oil, rice bran oil, Chinese tung oil, Japanese tung oil, jojoba oil, germ oil, and triglycerin.
[0037] The polar oil content can be adjusted as desired depending on the purpose, but is preferably 10% by mass or more and 80% by mass or less, more preferably 15% by mass or more and 50% by mass or less, and even more preferably 20% by mass or more and 40% by mass or less, relative to the total mass of the water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic. If the polar oil content is within the above range, a water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic that is excellent in usability and can achieve a matte finish can be obtained.
[0038] (C) Wax Component The wax component is not particularly limited, and any wax component known in the art as a cosmetic material can be used. Examples of wax components include waxes such as beeswax, lanolin, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, sunflower seed wax, rice bran wax, jojoba oil, bran wax, montan wax, kapok wax, bayberry wax, shellac wax, sugarcane wax, lanolin fatty acid isopropyl, hexyl laurate, reduced lanolin, hard lanolin, POE lanolin alcohol ether, POE lanolin alcohol acetate, POE cholesterol ether, lanolin fatty acid polyethylene glycol, and POE hydrogenated lanolin alcohol ether; hydrocarbons such as paraffin wax (straight-chain hydrocarbon), microcrystalline wax (branched-chain saturated hydrocarbon), ceresin wax, Japan wax, and Fischer-Tropsch wax; and solid oils and fats such as cocoa butter, coconut oil, horse oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, palm oil, beef tallow, mutton tallow, hydrogenated castor oil, and hydrogenated vegetable oil. One or more of these may be used in combination.
[0039] The content of the wax component can be adjusted as desired depending on the purpose, but is preferably from 1 to 20% by mass, more preferably from 3 to 15% by mass, and even more preferably from 4 to 10% by mass, relative to the total mass of the water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic. If the content of the wax component is within the above range, a water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic that is excellent in usability and can achieve a matte finish can be obtained.
[0040] (D) Surfactant) The surfactant is not particularly limited, and surfactants conventionally known as ingredients of cosmetics can be used. Examples of surfactants include modified silicones such as polyether-modified silicone, polyoxyalkylene-modified silicone, polyoxyalkylene-alkyl co-modified silicone, and polyglycerin-modified silicone; glycerin fatty acid esters such as glycerol monostearate and glycerol monooleate; sorbitan fatty acid esters such as sorbitan tristearate; and polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oils such as POE (5) hydrogenated castor oil and POE (7) hydrogenated castor oil. One or a combination of two or more of these may be used. Of these, modified silicones and glycerin fatty acid esters are particularly preferred.
[0041] The surfactant content can be adjusted as desired depending on the purpose, but is preferably 0.1% by mass or more and 10% by mass or less, more preferably 0.1% by mass or more and 7% by mass or less, and even more preferably 0.1% by mass or more and 5% by mass or less, relative to the total mass of the water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic. If the surfactant content is within the above range, a water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic that is easy to use and can achieve a matte finish can be obtained.
[0042] (Colorant) The colorant is not particularly limited, and colorants conventionally known as materials for cosmetics can be used. As the colorant, both pigments (powder or lake) and dyes can be used. Examples of pigments include inorganic white pigments such as titanium oxide and zinc oxide, inorganic red pigments such as iron oxide (red iron oxide) and iron titanate, inorganic brown pigments such as γ-iron oxide, inorganic yellow pigments such as yellow iron oxide and ochre, inorganic black pigments such as black iron oxide, carbon, and low-order titanium oxide, inorganic purple pigments such as mango violet and cobalt violet, inorganic green pigments such as chromium hydroxide and cobalt titanate, inorganic blue pigments such as ultramarine and Prussian blue, titanium oxide-coated mica, titanium oxide-coated bismuth oxychloride, acid Examples of suitable pigments include pearl pigments such as titanium dioxide-coated talc, colored titanium dioxide-coated mica, bismuth oxychloride, and fish scale foil; metal powder pigments such as aluminum powder and copper powder; organic pigments such as Red No. 202, Red No. 205, Red No. 220, Red No. 228, Red No. 405, Orange No. 203, Orange No. 204, Yellow No. 205, Yellow No. 401, and Blue No. 404; and organic pigments such as Red No. 3, Red No. 104, Red No. 227, Red No. 401, Orange No. 205, Yellow No. 4, Yellow No. 202, Green No. 3, and Blue No. 1.
[0043] (II) Aqueous Component The aqueous component includes aqueous solvents and aqueous components that can be typically incorporated into cosmetics and the like. Examples include, but are not limited to, moisturizers, water-soluble polymers, water-soluble drugs, sequestering agents, antioxidants, etc. The content of (II) the aqueous component is preferably 1% by mass or more and 55% by mass or less, more preferably 10% by mass or more and 50% by mass or less, even more preferably 15% by mass or more and 45% by mass or less, and even more preferably 20% by mass or more and 40% by mass or less, based on the total amount of the water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic. If the content of the aqueous component is within the above range, a water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic that is excellent in usability and can achieve a matte finish can be obtained.
[0044] Examples of aqueous solvents include water, alcohol, and mixtures thereof. The water used in water-in-oil emulsion cosmetics can be used, such as purified water, ion-exchanged water, and tap water. Examples of alcohols that can be used include lower alcohols such as ethanol, 1-propanol, 2-propanol, isobutyl alcohol, and t-butyl alcohol.
[0045] Examples of moisturizing agents include 1,3-butylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerin, diglycerin, xylitol, maltitol, maltose, and D-mannite.
[0046] Examples of water-soluble polymers include plant-based polymers such as gum arabic, carrageenan, pectin, agar, quince seed (marmelo), starch, and algae colloid (brown algae extract); microbial polymers such as dextran, pullulan, and hyaluronic acid; animal polymers such as collagen, casein, and gelatin; starch-based polymers such as carboxymethyl starch and methylhydroxypropyl starch; alginic acid-based polymers such as sodium alginate; vinyl-based polymers such as carboxyvinyl polymers (CARBOPOL, etc.); polyoxyethylene-based polymers, polyoxyethylene-polyoxypropylene copolymer-based polymers, acrylic polymers such as sodium polyacrylate, polyacrylamide, and polymethyl methacrylate; and inorganic water-soluble polymers such as bentonite, aluminum magnesium silicate, and laponite.
[0047] Examples of water-soluble drugs include vitamins such as vitamin A, retinol, retinol palmitate, inositol, pyridoxine hydrochloride, benzyl nicotinate, nicotinamide, dl-α-tocopherol nicotinate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbic acid 2-glucoside, vitamin D2 (ergocaciferol), dl-α-tocopherol 2-L ascorbyl phosphate diester potassium salt, dl-α-tocopherol, dl-α-tocopherol acetate, pantothenic acid, and biotin; anti-inflammatory agents such as allantoin and azulene; whitening agents such as arbutin; astringents such as zinc oxide and tannic acid; sulfur, lysozyme chloride, pyridoxine hydrochloride, and γ-oryzanol.
[0048] Examples of sequestering agents include edetate sodium salt, sodium metaphosphate, phosphoric acid, and the like.
[0049] Examples of antioxidants include ascorbic acid, α-tocopherol, dibutylhydroxytoluene, and butylhydroxyanisole.
[0050] The amount of aqueous component blended is usually within the range of 20 to 70% by mass, preferably 30 to 60% by mass, and more preferably 30 to 50% by mass, relative to the total amount of the water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic. If the blending amount is less than 20% by mass, the refreshing and pleasant feel may be lost, and if it is blended in excess of 70% by mass, stable emulsification may not be possible.
[0051] (Powder Component) The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic according to the present invention may further comprise a powder component. The powder component may be contained in either the oil component or the aqueous component.
[0052] Examples of powder components include inorganic powders such as silica, talc, kaolin, mica, sericite (sericite), muscovite, biotite, phlogopite, synthetic mica, vermiculite, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, aluminum silicate, barium silicate, calcium silicate, magnesium silicate, metal tungstate, magnesium, zeolite, barium sulfate, calcined calcium sulfate, calcined gypsum, calcium phosphate, fluoroapatite, hydroxyapatite, and ceramic powder; and organic powders such as powdered cellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, dextrates, dextrin, glucose additives, fructose, lactitol, and lactose. One or more of these may be used in combination. If the powder component is hydrophilic, it may be used as is, or may be subjected to a conventional hydrophobic treatment.
[0053] The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic of the present invention can be produced by a conventional method. For example, at least a portion of the oil component is added to the aqueous component, followed by emulsification using a homomixer or the like. The remaining oil component and powder component are then added and mixed by stirring.
[0054] (Uses) The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic according to the present invention can be suitably used as makeup cosmetics such as lipstick, eye shadow, eye liner, foundation, and concealer.
[0055] The present invention will be described in detail based on the following examples, but the present invention is not limited to these examples. Unless otherwise specified, the blending amounts are expressed in mass %.
[0056] [Examples 1 to 6, Comparative Examples 1 to 4] <Production of water-in-oil emulsion cosmetics> Water-in-oil emulsion cosmetics (lipsticks) of each Example and Comparative Example were produced according to the formulations shown in Table 1. In Table 1, the blending ratio of each component is expressed as mass %. The triglyceride composition, average particle size, and melting point of the powdered oil used in the water-in-oil emulsion cosmetics were analyzed using the following methods. [Analysis method] Triglyceride composition Gas chromatography - Analysis conditions DB1-ht (0.32 mm x 0.1 μm x 5 m) Agilent Technologies (123-1131) Injection volume: 1.0 μL Injection port: 370 ° C Detector: 370 ° C Split ratio: 50 / 1 35.1 kPa Constant pressure Column CT: 200 ° C (0 min hold) ~ (15 ° C / min) ~ 370 ° C (4 min hold) Average particle size The average particle size was measured using a particle size distribution analyzer (Shimadzu Corporation, device name: SALD-2300) according to the laser diffraction scattering method (ISO13320, JIS Z Based on the standard (JIS No. 8825-1), the volume-based particle size distribution of the powdered oil was measured by dry measurement to determine the volume mean diameter [MV], and the obtained volume mean diameter [MV] was taken as the average particle diameter. The volume mean diameter [MV] was calculated from the following formula using the values of particle diameter, particle volume, and the sum of particle volumes. Volume mean diameter [MV] = sum of (particle diameter x particle volume) / sum of particle volumes Melting point Using a DSC (Mettler Toledo DSC1), a sample of powdered oil was heated at a heating rate of 10°C / min, and the endothermic curve was measured. The melting point was determined as the temperature at the intersection of the baseline before the onset of endothermic reaction due to heating and the descending line of the endothermic peak.
[0057] <Performance Evaluation of Water-in-Oil Emulsion Cosmetics> The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetics (lipsticks) produced above were evaluated for usability and finish. Specifically, 10 expert panelists, women in their 30s and 40s who had received sensory evaluation training and were able to evaluate according to certain standards, were selected. Each expert panelist evaluated each aspect of usability and finish when using each lipstick, using the following criteria. The evaluation results are shown in Table 1.
[0058] [Usability] A: Spreads easily and is comfortable to use. B: Does not spread easily, but is easy to apply to the lips. C: Spreads heavily and is difficult to apply. [Finish] A: Finish was matte. B: Finish was semi-matte. C: Finish was not matte.
[0059]
[0060] Details of the ingredients in Table 1 above are as follows: *1: Powdered oil and fat, manufactured by Nisshin Oillio Group Co., Ltd., product name: Conafat #2 (when the total triglyceride content is 100% by mass, the content of XXX-type triglycerides having a fatty acid residue X (stearic acid residue) with 18 carbon atoms at positions 1 to 3 is 79.6% by mass, average particle size 10.0 μm, melting point 68.2°C)
[0061] The above results demonstrate that the water-in-oil emulsion cosmetics of the present invention are all excellent in usability and can achieve a matte finish. Furthermore, when combined with the results of the comparative examples, it is clear that the water-in-oil emulsion cosmetics of the present invention achieve excellent effects by incorporating a specific amount of powdery oil (A).
Claims
1. A water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic comprising (I) an oil component and (II) an aqueous component, wherein the (I) oil component comprises (A) powdered oil, (B) a polar oil, (C) a wax component, and (D) a surfactant, and the (A) powdered oil contains 50% by mass or more of one or more XXX triglycerides having fatty acid residues X with x carbon atoms at positions 1 to 3, where x is an integer selected from 16 to 20, when the total triglyceride content is taken as 100% by mass, wherein the content of the (A) powdered oil is 1% by mass or more and 40% by mass or less, based on the total amount of the water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic.
2. The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein in the powdered oil (A), the carbon number x is an integer selected from 16 to 18.
3. The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the melting point of the powdered oil (A) is 40°C or higher and 95°C or lower.
4. A water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the content of the oily component (I) is 45% by mass or more and 99% by mass or less based on the total amount of the water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic.
5. A water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the content of the surfactant (D) is from 0.1% by mass to 10% by mass, based on the total amount of the water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic.
6. The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the content of the aqueous component (II) is from 1% by mass to 55% by mass, based on the total amount of the water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic.
7. The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic according to claim 1, further comprising a colorant.
8. The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic is in a solid form.
9. The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic is a lipstick.
Citation Information
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