Makeup composition comprising a natural resin, optionally a cellulose ether, a particular polyester and volatile compounds, and process
A cosmetic composition combining natural resin, polyester from polyglycerol-3, and volatile solvents addresses the challenge of achieving long-lasting wear without synthetic film-forming polymers, offering comfort and environmental sustainability.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- PCT/EP2024/084123
- Authority / Receiving Office
- WO · WO
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2023-12-06
- Filing Date
- 2024-11-29
- Publication Date
- 2025-06-12
AI Technical Summary
Existing cosmetic makeup compositions, particularly those for lips, face challenges in achieving long-lasting wear performance without using film-forming polymers like silicone, which are often uncomfortable and have environmental concerns.
A cosmetic composition for the skin and/or lips comprising a natural resin, optionally alkylcellulose, a polyester derived from polyglycerol-3, dimer acid, and fatty monoacid, and volatile solvents like ethanol or hydrocarbon-based oils.
The composition provides a stable, comfortable, and long-lasting glossy deposit with excellent wear performance, without the need for synthetic film-forming polymers, and is more environmentally friendly.
Abstract
Description
MAKEUP COMPOSITION COMPRISING A NATURAL RESIN, OPTIONALLY A CELLULOSE ETHER, A PARTICULAR POLYESTER AND VOLATILE COMPOUNDS, AND PROCESSThe present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for making up especially the skin and / or the lips, preferably the lips, comprising at least one natural resin, optionally at least one alkylcellulose, at least one polyester obtained by reaction of a polyglycerol-3, a dimer acid and a C8-C30monoacid, at least one volatile solvent chosen from C2-C6monoalcohols, volatile hydrocarbon-based or silicone oils, and also a makeup process which uses said composition.Many cosmetic makeup compositions containing dyestuffs, such as foundations, correctors, lipsticks or lip glosses, have been developed to improve the wear performance and transfer resistance properties. Specifically, poor wear performance may be reflected in particular by poor persistence of the colour (changing or fading) and / or of the gloss of the deposit. This consequently obliges the user to freshen the makeup more regularly than desired, which may be considered as time consuming.Improving the wear performance of compositions is obtained by means of compositions which form a film after application. Such compositions generally contain volatile solvents which evaporate on contact with the skin or the lips, leaving behind a layer comprising waxes and / or film-forming polymers, pigments and fillers. Film-forming polymers are synthetic polymers, usually silicone or acrylic polymers. Thus, mention may be made of the use of silicone resins, for instance trimethyl siloxysilicate (INCI name) or polypropylsilsesquioxane (INCI name) resins, or resins which comprise silicone polymers such as silicone acrylate dendrimer copolymers (acrylates / polytrimethyl siloxymethacrylate copolymer - INCI name). Acrylic polymers of acrylic polymers such as acrylic acid / isobutyl acrylate / isobornyl acrylate copolymers are also used. However, these compositions are often considered less comfortable, or even uncomfortable, from a sensory point of view for consumers.Moreover, for a few years now, consumers have been becoming more demanding regarding the composition of their cosmetic products and have in particular sought to minimize the content of silicone compounds, or even to dispense with them. On the other hand, they have been seeking to use products with a higher content of natural ingredients or ingredients of natural origin, ingredients of which the environmental impact is minimized and / or ingredients that are compatible with a wide range of packaging.The difficulty remains, however, in reconciling these latest trends with the fact that consumers do not, however, want to give up the very high performance to which they have become accustomed regarding the products they already use, which comprise in particular film-forming silicone polymers.The search is therefore for effective, comfortable makeup compositions which give, where appropriate, a glossy deposit, which also have very good wear performance, without it being necessary to use the film-forming polymers conventionally used, in particular silicone polymers, and which are more environmentally friendly, by using, for example, more compounds that are natural or of natural origin.These problems and other problems are solved by the present invention, one subject of which is a cosmetic composition for making up human keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips, preferably the lips, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:- at least one natural resin;- optionally at least one alkylcellulose, the alkyl group of which is a C2-C3alkyl group, preferably ethylcellulose;- at least one polyester which is the product of reaction of components (i), (ii) and (iii) below:(i) at least one polyglycerol-3,(ii) at least one dimer acid, and(iii) at least one fatty monoacid containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms,the components (i), (ii) and (iii) reacted being in a mole ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of monofatty acid,- at least one volatile solvent chosen, alone or as mixtures, from at least one C2-C6monoalcohol, preferably ethanol, at least one hydrocarbon-based or silicone volatile oil, and also mixtures thereof.The present invention also relates to a makeup process in which the abovementioned cosmetic composition is applied to human keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips, preferably the lips.The composition according to the invention has the advantage of being stable over time and of being easy to apply, without dewetting on application or on blotting. Moreover, the deposit obtained is precise, homogeneous, not runny and sparingly or not at all tacky. The deposit does not migrate into the wrinkles and fine lines, in particular around the lips.The resulting deposit is glossy, with very good wear performance. It is also comfortable, without leaving a feeling of dryness or tautness.The composition according to the invention is advantageously in the form of a liquid composition.The term "liquid composition" is understood to mean any composition which exhibits one or more of the following characteristics:i) it flows under its own weight at ambient temperature (20°C) and at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 105Pa);ii) it is not solid at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure and a viscosity or its consistency characterized by its hardness may be measured for same;iii) it does not have any particular shape such as that which can be obtained by hot casting in a mould or container of a given shape.Such compositions may thus be found notably in fluid, creamy, pasty or gel form.Protocol for measuring the viscosityThe viscosity measurement is generally performed at 25°C, using a Rheomat RM180 viscometer equipped with a No. 2, No. 3 or No. 4 spindle, the measurement being performed after 10 minutes of rotation of the spindle in the composition (after which time stabilization of the viscosity and of the spin speed of the spindle are observed), at a speed of 200 rpm.According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention may have, at 25°C, a viscosity of between 0.1 and 25 Pa.s, preferably between 0.2 and 20 Pa.s. Preferably, the viscosity at 25°C of a composition according to the invention may be between 0.2 and 10 Pa.s.In particular, the viscosity at 25°C of a composition according to the invention may be between 0.1 Pa.s (spindle 2) and 25 Pa.s (spindle 4), preferably between 0.2 Pa.s (spindle 2) and 20 Pa.s (spindle 4) and better still between 0.2 Pa.s (spindle 2) and 10 Pa.s (spindle 4).POLYGLYCEROL-3 / DIMER ACID / FATTY MONOACID POLYESTERThe composition in accordance with the invention at least one polyester which is the reaction product of the following components (i), (ii) and (iii):(i) at least one polyglycerol-3;(ii) at least one dimer acid; and(iii) at least one fatty monoacid containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms,the components (i), (ii) and (iii) reacted being in a mole ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of fatty acids.The term “polyester” is understood to mean any polymer obtained by a condensation reaction of polycarboxylic acids with alcohols or glycols. Its macromolecular backbone contains the repetition of its ester function. The ester function denotes a characteristic group formed of an atom bonded simultaneously to an oxygen atom via a double bond and to an alkoxy group. When the bonded atom is a carbon atom, it is called a carboxylic ester, the general formula of which is R-COO-R’.The term "polyglycerol-3" means triglycerol alone or a mixture of polyglycerols comprising at least triglycerol; said polyglycerols corresponding to formula (I):H[-O-Gly]n-OH, in which each Gly is independently the residue of a glycerol molecule after removal of two hydroxyl groups; and n is a mean from 2 to 10. Furthermore, triglycerol is preferably predominant in said mixture.The polyesters of the invention and the synthesis thereof are described in patent applications US 2021 / 0259945, US 2021 / 0259946 and US 2021 / 0259930 in the name of Nouryon.According to a preferred embodiment, the polyester is a substantially or completely non-sequential reaction product.The term “product of substantially non-sequential reaction” means the product obtained by a substantially non-sequential reaction of the reactive components (i)-(iii).The term “totally non-sequential reaction of the reactive components (i)-(iii)” means that the total content of each of the reagents (i)-(iii) to be reacted is added to the reaction vessel before starting the reaction.In one embodiment of the present invention, the total content of each of the reactants (i)-(iii) to be made to react is added to the reaction vessel before starting the reaction, that is to say that the reaction is completely non-sequential, and the polymer is a completely non-sequential reaction product of the components (i)-(iii). In other embodiments, 70-100%, or 75-100%, or 80-100%, or 85-100%, or 90-100%, or 95-100%, or 97-100% of each of the reagents (i)-(iii) are added to the reaction vessel before starting the reaction.In one embodiment, the polyester is prepared by a one-step process which involves the introduction of all the reagents into a reaction vessel and subsequently the induction of an entirely random addition of the dimer acid and of the isostearic acid to the polyglycerol-3.Polyglycerol-3Triglycerol has the formula H-[-OGly]3-OH in which Gly designates a glycerol residue after removal of two hydroxyl groups.A polyglycerol-3 according to the invention in the form of a mixture of polyglycerols containing at least triglycerol comprises polyglycerols which can be any product of oligocondensation of glycerol. They preferably correspond to the formula (I):H[-O-Gly]n-OH, in which each Gly is independently the residue of a glycerol molecule after removal of two hydroxyl groups; and n is a mean from 2 to 10.Generally, the majority of the Gly groups are of the formula: -CH2-CHOH-CH2-, although the residues comprising etherification at secondary or even tertiary hydroxyl groups are regarded as being within the scope of “Gly” and, consequently, may also be present.Examples of polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture comprise diglycerol, triglycerol, tetraglycerol, pentaglycerol, hexaglycerol, heptaglycerol, octaglycerol, nonaglycerol, decaglycerol and mixtures of these. In particular, preferential polyglycerols are those of formula (I) in whichnin particular has a value from 2 to 7, more particularly from 2 to 5 and in particular 2, 3 or 4, or mixtures of polyglycerols in these ranges.Particularly appropriate examples of polyglycerol-3 comprise a mixture of polyglycerols having the following distribution, in which all the percentages by weight are based relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture:- glycerol: 0% to 30% by weight, preferably 0% to 20% by weight, most preferably 0% to 15% by weight;- diglycerol: 10% to 40% by weight, preferably 15% to 35% by weight, most preferably 20% to 32% by weight;- triglycerol: 10% to 65% by weight, preferably 15% to 60% by weight, most preferably 18% to 55% by weight;- tetraglycerol: 2% to 25% by weight, preferably 5% to 20% by weight, most preferably 8% to 20% by weight;- pentaglycerol: 0% to 15% by weight, preferably 0% to 10% by weight, most preferably 0% to 5% by weight;- hexaglycerol: 0% to 15% by weight, preferably 0% to 10% by weight, most preferably 0% to 5% by weight;- heptaglycerol: 0% to 10% by weight, preferably 0% to 5% by weight, most preferably 0% to 3% by weight;- octaglycerol: 0% to 10% by weight, preferably 0% to 5% by weight, most preferably 0% to 3% by weight;- nonaglycerol: 0% to 5% by weight, preferably 0% to 3% by weight, most preferably 0% to 2% by weight;- decaglycerol: from 0% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0% to 3% by weight, in a preferred way from 0% to 2% by weight.In one embodiment, a polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture comprises the following distribution of polyglycerols:Glycerol: 0% to 30% by weight;Diglycerol: 15% to 40% by weight;Triglycerol: 10% to 55% by weight;Tetraglycerol: 2% to 25% by weight;Pentaglycerol and higher components: from 0% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture.In one embodiment, a polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture is composed of at least 40% by weight, or of at least 45% by weight, or of at least 50% by weight, of a combination of diglycerol and of triglycerol, relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture.In one embodiment, a polyglycerol-3 is composed of at least 20% by weight, or of at least 25% by weight, of diglycerol; at least 15% by weight, or at least 18% by weight, of triglycerol; at least 10% by weight, or at least 12% by weight, of tetraglycerol; in which all the percentages by weight are relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture.A particularly preferred polyglycerol-3 comprises at least 25% by weight of diglycerol, at least 45% by weight of triglycerol and at least 10% by weight of tetraglycerol, relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture.Analysis of such a polyglycerol-3 composition can be carried out in order to determine its median or "mean" polyglycerol number. The examples of polyglycerols above with narrow and broad distributions can also be denoted as polyglycerol-3 because it is a matter of the integer closest to the mean and / or median.Dimer acidThe dimer acid can be any dicarboxylic acid having at least 4 carbon atoms. They can be linear or branched, such as, for example, the dimers prepared from malonic acid, succinic acid, fumaric acid, dimethylglutaric acid or trimethyladipic acid, and from their anhydrides.Dimer fatty acids are particularly useful. As is known, they are mixtures of acyclic and cyclic dicarboxylic acids which are obtained by a catalysed dimerization reaction of unsaturated fatty acids having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.For the preparation and use of dimer acids and their physical and chemical properties, reference will be made to the publication “The Dimer Acids: The chemical and physical properties, reactions and applications", Ed. E.C. Leonard; Humko Sheffield Chemical, 1975, Memphis, Tenn.The dicarboxylic acids can also contain, to a lesser extent, tri- and polyfunctional carboxylic acids. The functionality of the mixture must not exceed a mean molar value of 2.4.The preferred dimer acids are typically derived from triglycerides rich in C18 ester groups, which can be hydrolysed to produce unsaturated C18 fatty monoacids. The starting materials may be derived from tallow oil and rapeseed oil but other natural sources, such as flax seeds, soybean, pumpkin and walnut, may be used. The target monoacids used in the reaction are rich in oleic and linoleic acid forms described in the list of fatty acids contained below. Dimerization results mainly in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids, but trimers are also formed. After reaction, the product may be stored in the form of a mixture of reaction products or it may be further distilled or otherwise separated into molecular weight fractions. In one embodiment, the dimerization reaction produces a predominance (at least 60% by weight, more preferably at least 75% by weight) of dimer acid (C36 diacid) but also produces C54 trimer acids (less than 30% by weight, more preferably less than 25% by weight).In one case, a standard dimer acid commercially available from Croda, Pripol 1025®, which contains 72% by weight of dimer acid and 19% by weight of trimer acid, is used.In another case, a standard hydrogenated dimer acid from Oleon, Radiacid 0960®, which contains 87% by weight of dimer acid and 10% by weight of trimer acid, is used. In both cases, the polymer as described is characterized by a higher molecular weight, a more hydrophobic nature and a higher viscosity than those which can be provided by pure diacids of lower molecular weight. The presence of trimer acid further improves the molecular weight and the performance qualities of these polymers.In one embodiment, the copolymer of the present invention is prepared from at least one hydrogenated dimer acid.In another embodiment, the polymer is prepared from a hydrogenated dimer acid comprising hydrogenated dimerized C18 fatty acids, which hydrogenated dimer acid is obtained by dimerization of unsaturated C18 fatty acids and subsequent hydrogenation.In one embodiment, the hydrogenated dimer acid contains a content of acid trimer ranging from about 5% to 25% by weight, based on the total weight of hydrogenated dimer acid.In another embodiment, the hydrogenated dimer acid contains a predominance (at least 60% by weight, more preferentially at least 75% by weight, but not more than 95% by weight, or better still not more than 90% by weight, or even better still not more than 85% by weight) of hydrogenated dimer acid (C36 diacid) and also contains hydrogenated C54 acid trimers (less than 30% by weight, more preferably less than 25% by weight, but more than 5% by weight, more preferably more than 10% by weight).Fatty monoacidThe C8-C30fatty monoacids may include natural or refined fatty acids, such as hydrolysed rapeseed oil, sunflower oils, and the like, but these contain both lower and higher MW chains. Useful fatty monoacids may be linear, branched, saturated, unsaturated and aromatic materials with an acidity provided by carboxylic acid fractions.Acids that are suitable for use in the invention comprise caprylic acid (C8), pelargonic acid (C9), capric acid (C10), undecylic acid (C11), lauric acid (C12), tridecylic acid (C13), myristic acid (C14), pentadecylic acid (C15), palmitic acid (C16), margaric acid (C17), stearic acid (C18), isostearic acid (C18), nonadecylic acid (C19), arachidic acid (C20), behenic acid (C22) and lignoceric acid (C24).The comparison of stearic acid and isostearic acid shows that the branching leads to an elevated melting point and results in a low viscosity at ambient temperature for isostearic acid, compared to a solid material for stearic acid. This lower viscosity can be useful in the handling of starting materials and also to make it possible for the esters manufactured with this acid to retain their liquid properties. Branched-chain fatty acids often contain a single methyl branch along the linear carbon chain and are produced in nature by microbial action. Isostearic acid is available as a reaction by-product in the creation of the dimer acid described above.Another way to obtain a liquid product consists in using unsaturated, linear and branched, fatty monoacids. These unsaturated acids can include palmitoleic acid (C16:1), vaccenic acid (C18:1), oleic acid (C18:1), elaidic acid (C18:1), linoleic acid (C18:2), linolelaidic acid (C18: 2), α-linolenic acid (C18:3), α-linolenic acid (C18:3), stearidonic acid (C18:4), paullinic acid (C20:1), gondoic acid (C20:1), dihomo-γ-linolenic acid (C20:3), mead acid (C20:3), arachidonic acid (C20:4), eicosapentaenoic acid (C20:5), erucic acid (C22:1), docosatetraenoic acid (C22:4), cervonic acid (C22:6) and nervonic acid (C24:1). As is well known to a person skilled in the art, the designation means that the length of the carbon chain is X carbon atoms and that there are Y double bonds in the chain.In one embodiment, isostearic acid will be preferred.In a particularly preferred embodiment, the polyester of the invention is a product of substantially or totally non-sequential reaction of the following components:(i) at least one polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture comprising at least 25% by weight of diglycerol, at least 45% by weight of triglycerol and at least 10% by weight of tetraglycerol, relative to the total weight of polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture;(ii) at least one hydrogenated dimer acid containing at least 60% by weight of hydrogenated C36 diacid and from 5% to 25% by weight of hydrogenated C54 triacid, in each case relative to the total weight of hydrogenated acid; andiii) isostearic acid.In one embodiment, the polyester is prepared by a one-step process which involves the introduction of all the reagents into a reaction vessel and subsequently the induction of an entirely random addition of the dimer acid and of the isostearic acid to the polyglycerol-3.In one embodiment, it is preferable to have a total degree of esterification of the available polyglycerol hydroxyl fragments (total esterification) of from 24% to 74% and a degree of esterification of the available polyglycerol hydroxyl fragments by a dimer acid alone (esterification with a dimer acid) of from 20% to 40%. Even more importantly, the degree of esterification by end-cap units (esterification with a monoacid) is also defined in this description and it is important to maintain the esterification with a monoacid from 4% to 40%.It is preferable to have a total esterification of 28% to 57% with an esterification with an dimer acid of 20% to 30% and an esterification with a monoacid of between 8% and 27%.It is even more preferable to have a total esterification of 33% to 48% with an esterification with an dimer acid of 20% to 28% and an esterification with a monoacid of between 13% and 20%.It is even more preferable to have a total esterification of 24% to 74% with an esterification with a hydrogenated dimer acid of 20% to 40% and an esterification with a monoacid of between 4% and 40%.It is even more preferable to have a total esterification of 28% to 57% with an esterification with a hydrogenated dimer acid of 20% to 30% and an esterification with a monoacid of between 8% and 27%.It is also even more preferable to have a total esterification of approximately 40% with an esterification with a hydrogenated dimer acid of approximately 20% and an esterification with a monoacid of approximately 20%.It is also even more preferable to also most preferably have a total esterification of approximately 40% with an esterification with a hydrogenated dimer acid of approximately 27% and an esterification with a monoacid of approximately 13%.In one embodiment, the reacted components are in a mole ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and 0.2 to 1.7 moles of fatty acid.In another embodiment, the reacted components are in a mole ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.75 mole of dimer acid and 0.4 to 1.35 moles of isostearic acid.In another embodiment, the reacted components are in a mole ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.7 mole of dimer acid and 0.65 to 1 mole of isostearic acid.In another embodiment, the reacted components are in a mole ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.2 to 1.7 moles of isostearic acid.In another embodiment, the reacted components are in a mole ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.75 mole of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.4 to 1.35 moles of isostearic acid.In another embodiment, the reacted components are in a mole ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.7 mole of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.65 to 1 mole of isostearic acid.In another embodiment, the reacted components are in a mole ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.2 to 1.7 moles of isostearic acid.In another embodiment, the reacted components are in a mole ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.75 mole of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.4 to 1.35 moles of isostearic acid.In another embodiment, the reacted components are in a mole ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.7 mole of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.65 to 1 mole of isostearic acid.In another embodiment, the reacted components are in a mole ratio of 1 mol of polyglycerol-3, 0.67 mol of hydrogenated C36 dimer acid and 0.67 mol of isostearic acid.In a particularly preferred embodiment, the reacted components are in a mole ratio of 1 mol of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 mol of hydrogenated C36 dimer acid and 1 mol of isostearic acid.By adjusting the mole ratio of the termination of the fatty acids and by balancing the amount of polyglycerol-3 and of dimer acid, it is also possible to control the degree of dimer acid-polyglycerol extension and termination so that crosslinking, for example, via the acid trimer, results in much higher viscosities.The target viscosity of the pure polymer must be > 50 000 mPa.s and less than 5 000 000 mPa.s at 25°C.In a preferred embodiment, the target viscosity is > 75 000 mPa.s and< 2 500 000 mPa.s at 25°C.In another preferred embodiment, the target viscosity is > 100 000 mPa.s and < 2 000 000 mPa.s at 25°C.In a most preferred embodiment, the target viscosity is > 1 000 000 mPa.s and < 2 000 000 mPa.s at 25°C.The viscosity is measured using an MCR3O2® rheometer from Anton Paar Inc. Rough or smooth twin flat plates 50 mm in diameter were used, covered with a polymer sample, adjusted to a gap of 0.5 to 1 mm, and temperature and shear rate scans were performed. The polyesters of the invention have Newtonian behaviour and thus have a constant viscosity over a wide range of shear rates. In addition, the polymers of the present description demonstrated a reduced viscosity with temperature. Thus, the viscosity measurements are reported at a precisely controlled temperature and generally in the form of a shear rate of 1. The values are reported in mPa.s.The polyesters of the invention are characterized by weight-average molecular weights > 2500 Da and < 1 000 000 Da, measured by GPC using linear polystyrene standards.The GPC column used for these tests was constituted of: Phenolgel, 300 x 4.6 mm; a continuous tetrahydrofuran (THF) phase was used and injected at 0.35 ml / min, column oven maintained at 40°C; a 50 µl injection and a Wyatt Ri refractive index detector. The calibration standards used were strictly linear polystyrene intended to be monodispersed. The narrow range polystyrene GPC calibrating standards were prepared as a mobile phase and had maximum molecular weights of 1 290 000 Da, 560 000 Da, 65 500 Da, 28 500 Da, 10 100 Da, 1680 Da, 580 Da and 208 Da. Using standard methodologies, the weight- and number-average molecular weight is automatically calculated with standard GPC software.In a preferred embodiment, the polyesters described have a weight-average molecular weight > 4000 Da and < 250 000 Da, measured by GPC using linear polystyrene standards. In a most preferred embodiment, the polymers described have a weight-average molecular weight > 5000 Da and < 150 000 Da, measured by GPC using linear polystyrene standards.In yet another embodiment, the polyester of the invention has a combination of weight-average molecular weight > 5000 Da and < 150 000 Da, measured by GPC using linear polystyrene standards, and of viscosity at 25°C > 100 000 mPa.s and < 2 000 000 mPa.s.In a preferred embodiment, the polyester of the invention is a product of substantially or totally non-sequential reaction of the following components:(i) at least one polyglycerol-3 comprising at least 25% by weight of diglycerol, at least 45% by weight of triglycerol and at least 10% by weight of tetraglycerol, in each case relative to the total weight of polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture;(ii) at least one hydrogenated dimer acid containing at least 60% by weight of hydrogenated C36 diacid and from 5% to 25% by weight of hydrogenated C54 triacid, in each case relative to the total weight of hydrogenated acid; and(iii) isostearic acid; in which the polymer has a combination of weight-average molecular weight > 5000 Da and < 15 000 Da, measured with GPC using linear polystyrene standards, and of viscosity of the pure polymer > 100 000 mPa.s and < 2 000 000 mPa.s at 25°C; and in which the copolymer is also characterized by a total esterification of about 40%, an esterification with a hydrogenated dimer acid of about 27% and an esterification with a monoacid of about 13%.In practice, given that the crude ingredients contain a range of polyglycerol units and a range of dimer and trimer acid content, the above numbers can be adjusted using the real (and not theoretical) hydroxyl moieties and carboxylic acid moieties, as determined by methods such as mass spectrometry, NMR and liquid chromatography. The above esterification ranges are based on the ideal structure of the polyglycerol-3 and of the C36 dimer acid. The actual ranges may thus be slightly different from the values indicated above and may be calculated on the basis of these analytical values.It is more practical to define the extent of the polymerization by the final acid number. The initial acid numbers, in the light of the distribution of the polyglycerol, monoacid and polyacid fractions present, can be reliably calculated using the actual acid number determined by the raw ingredient used.For example, the initial total acid number (“AV”, which is commonly defined in mg of KOH / g of total reagent) is 135 AV. This comprises 68 AV for the dimer acid and 67 AV for the isostearic acid for a preferred embodiment containing 1 mol of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 mol of hydrogenated C36 dimer acid and 1 mol of isostearic acid. All the preferred ratio embodiments described above have a corresponding initial AV which can be calculated. When, during the polymerization reaction, the AV units are reduced, this ratio gives the percentage of conversion of the reaction from the total initial reactive acid fractions to the final residual acid fractions.Thus, the degree of completion of the reaction is defined by 1 - final AV / initial AV.In one embodiment, the polyesters of the invention have final acid numbers of from 0.1 to < 25 mg of KOH / g of polymer.In a preferred embodiment, the polyesters of the invention have final acid numbers of from 0.1 to < 10 mg of KOH / g of polymer.In a most preferred embodiment, the polyesters of the invention have final acid numbers from 0.1 to < 5 mg of KOH / g of polymer.As the completion rate of the reaction is defined by the equation 1- final AV / initial AV, the completion rate of the reaction of such mixtures to give final polymer is > 80%.In a preferred embodiment, the degree of completion of the reaction of such mixtures to give final polymer is > 90%.In a most preferred embodiment, the degree of completion of the reaction of such mixtures to give final polymer is > 95%.In a preferred embodiment, the polyester of the invention is a product of reaction of a polyglycerol-3, of a hydrogenated C36 dimer acid and of isostearic acid in a mole ratio of 1 / 0.5 / 1, as described in Example 10 (copolymer) of document US 2021 / 0259945.According to a preferred variant of the invention, the composition comprises at least one oily solution comprising:a) at least one polyester which is the reaction product of the following components (i), (ii) and (iii):(i) at least one polyglycerol-3;(ii) at least one dimer acid; and(iii) at least one fatty monoacid having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the components (i), (ii) and (iii) reacted being in a mole ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol, of 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and of 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of fatty acids; andb) at least one non-volatile oil.Said non-volatile oil(s) may be chosen from those which will be described below.According to one advantageous embodiment, the oily solution comprises, as non-volatile oil(s), at least one fatty acid triglyceride containing from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, and more particularly a caprylic / capric acid triglyceride (INCI name: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride).The oily solution of polyester can be obtained by mixing the polyester with the non-volatile oil or oils at approximately 80-100°C. The combined mixture is subsequently further cooled to 50-70°C to be discharged from the reactor and stored.Said oily solution of polyester preferably contains the polyester at a concentration of 10% to 99% by weight, more preferentially of 30% to 90% by weight, more particularly of 50% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the mixture.According to a preferred embodiment, the oily solution comprises 40% by weight of triglyceride of caprylic / capric acids and 60% by weight of polyester of polyglycerol-3, of hydrogenated C36 dimer acid and of isostearic acid, relative to the total weight of the oily solution, in a mole ratio of 1 / 0.5 / 1, as described in Example 10 (copolymer) and Example 28 (oily mixture) of document US 2021 / 0259945.According to a particularly preferred form of the invention, the composition comprises an oily solution comprising:a) a polyester obtained by reaction:(i) of a polyglycerol-3; and(ii) of a hydrogenated C36 dimer acid; and(iii) isostearic acid;the components (i), (ii) and (iii) reacted being in a mole ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol, 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of fatty acids; andb) a triglyceride of caprylic / capric acids, said mixture having, as INCI name: Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate (and) Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride.Such an oily solution is sold under the name SolAmaze Natural® by Nouryon, comprising 60% by weight, as active material, of polyester and 40% by weight of a triglyceride of caprylic / capric acids, relative to the total weight of the oily solution.According to a preferred embodiment, the amount, as active material, of polyester varies from 1% to 30% by weight, more preferentially from 5% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.NATURAL RESINThe composition according to the invention comprises at least one natural resin.A resin is generally defined as a solid, highly viscous or liquid substance of plant or synthetic origin. Resins have a number of characteristics specific to them, such as:- the ability to permanently harden, for example for the synthetic resins under the influence of temperature and for the natural resins under the influence of oxygen;- their insolubility in water and above all their good tack and adhesive properties.Standard ISO4618:2014(fr) defines a resin as being a "macromolecular product, generally amorphous, with a consistency ranging from the solid state to the liquid state".Natural resins are virtually exclusively of plant origin (fossil or harvested) and are secreted then exuded by plants for roles of defence, protection and communication within their ecosystem. An exception to this is shellac, which is of animal origin and is secreted by the insect Coccus lacca.For the purposes of the invention, “natural resin” and in particular “plant resin” means any substance comprising a minimal content of terpenic compounds, i.e. at least 30% by weight of terpenic compounds relative to the total weight of the substance (or material) in question, as defined chemically below, said substance being derived directly or indirectly from the secretion and exudation, mainly by plants (and more rarely by animals), of a substance for roles of defence, protection and communication with their ecosystem.Advantageously, the natural resin according to the invention is insoluble in water at ambient temperature (unlike latices or gums, for example).Natural resins are also considered to be natural adhesives which have the inherent ability to polymerize consistently and predictably by themselves without synthetic chemistry.Preferably, the natural resin used in the composition according to the invention has a number-average molecular weight of less than or equal to 10 000 g / mol. The resin preferably has a number-average molecular weight of less than or equal to 10 000 g / mol, particularly ranging from 250 to 10 000 g / mol, preferably less than or equal to 5000 g / mol, particularly ranging from 250 to 5000 g / mol, better still less than or equal to 2000 g / mol, particularly ranging from 250 to 2000 g / mol and even better still less than or equal to 1000 g / mol, particularly ranging from 250 to 1000 g / mol. The number-average molecular weights (Mn) are determined by gel permeation liquid chromatography (THF solvent, calibration curve established with linear polystyrene standards, refractometric detector).Thermal propertiesAdvantageously, the resins according to the invention are characterized in that they have a softening point, which denotes the temperature of transition from a pseudo-solid state to a plastic state during heating.Preferably, the resins of the invention have a softening point (or temperature) within the range from 20°C to 150°C, more preferentially from 30°C to 100°C, even more preferentially from 40°C to 90°C.The softening point is the temperature at which a product reaches a certain degree of softening under standardized conditions. It denotes the temperature of transition from a pseudo-solid state to a plastic state during heating. It can be measured by the ring and ball method (or RBT, ring and ball temperature) for resins according to standard ASTM E284.Depending on the class thereof, some of the resins according to the invention can also have a melting temperature, preferably of less than 360°C, preferentially less than 190°C, and even more preferentially less than 90°C.According to a preferred form of the invention, the resins do not have a melting temperature.The melting point (or melting temperature) of a substance at a given pressure corresponds to the temperature at which the liquid and solid states of this substance can coexist in equilibrium.Preferably, the resins of the invention have a glass transition temperature preferably within the range from 0°C to 200°C, more preferentially from 10°C to 100°C, even more preferentially from 20°C to 90°C and even more preferably still from 30°C to 70°C.The glass transition (Tg) temperature of a material represents the temperature range through which the material passes from a rubbery state to a vitreous, solid (rigid) state.The thermal properties, in particular the Mp and Tg of the resins, can be measured by DSC (Differential Scanning Calorimetry), for example by means of a DSC 8000 apparatus from Perkin Elmer, according to:- Protocol 1: Determining melting temperature Mp and crystallization temperature Tc: Starting materials alone or solubilized / dispersed in solvents, stainless steel dishes, sweeping from 5°C to 90°C, sweep rate of 5°C.min-1;- Protocol 2: Determining glass transition temperature Tg: measurement on second heating. Aluminium dishes (40 μl) are used, containing the starting materials, a temperature sweep between -100°C and 150°C (with isotherms) is carried out in order to observe the glass transition temperature. The temperature ramp applied is 10°C / min for the glass transition temperatures (2 cycles).Chemically, natural resins are complex mixtures of several classes of compounds, the presence and content of which define the class of the resin (oleoresin, balsam, gum, etc.): essential oils, neutral and acidic constituents and polysaccharides (present exclusively in gums).The components which characterize resins are the terpenic compounds that they contain, preferably in a content of at least 30% by weight relative to the weight of resin.“Terpenic compounds” means terpenes, hydrocarbons formed from isoprene having the general formula (C5H8)n, and the numerous derivatives thereof (alcohols, aldehydes, ketones, acids, etc.) comprising a terpene structure (Académie de Montpellier. Les résines [Resins]: https: / tice.ac-montpellier.fr / ABCDORGA / Famille / Terpenes.html).Among the terpenic hydrocarbons, a distinction is made between: monoterpenes of empirical formula C10H16 (n=2), sesquiterpenes of empirical formula C15H24 (n=3), diterpenes (C20H32) (n=4), sesterterpenes (C25H40) (n=5), triterpenes (C30H48) (n=6), tetraterpenes (C40H64) (n=8) and other polyterpenes. Some have an acyclic structure; they comprise a number of double bonds which corresponds to their empirical formula: 3 for C10H16; 5 for C20H32; 7 for C30H48. Others have one or more rings, so a reduced number of double bonds, for example for C10H16one ring and 2 double bonds, or 2 rings and one double bond.Advantageously, the resins of the invention contain at least 30% of terpenic compounds, preferably at least 40% by weight of terpenic compounds, preferably at least 50% of terpenic compounds, and even more preferably at least 60% of terpenic compounds, or even better still at least 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of resin or resinous substance used as starting material in the composition according to the invention.Monoterpenic and sesquiterpenic compounds are predominantly volatile compounds, constituting for example essential oils. Polyterpenic compounds derived from terpenes where n is greater than or equal to 4 (such as derivatives of diterpenes and triterpenes) are resinous compounds of a rather solid nature.According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, the resins comprise at least 10%, preferably at least 20% by weight, preferably at least 30% by weight, preferably at least 35% by weight, of polyterpenic compounds, i.e. of compounds derived from terpenes where n is greater than or equal to 4, relative to the total weight of resin, representing 100%. Thus, resins exhibiting a fraction that is solid at ambient temperature (25°C) are preferred. Advantageously, said resins used according to the invention are not volatile.Advantageously, the polyterpenic compounds of the resins or resinous substances used in the composition of the invention are predominantly (to more than 50% by weight relative to the total weight of polyterpenes) derived from diterpenes and / or from triterpenes.According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, the resins comprise less than 70% by weight of monoterpenic or sesquiterpenic compounds, i.e. of compounds derived from terpenes where n is less than 4, relative to the total weight of resin, representing 100%; preferably, said resins comprise less than 60% by weight, preferably less than 50% by weight, preferably less than 30% by weight, preferably less than 15% by weight, of monoterpenic or sesquiterpenic compounds derived from terpenes where n is less than 4 relative to the total weight of resin, representing 100%. Thus, for the compositions of the invention, preference is given to limiting the use of the most volatile resins, since they are less effective in terms of the wear property of a cosmetic film.Advantageously, the natural resin(s) according to the invention are chosen from: a) acaroid resins, b) ambers, c) asphaltite and gilsonite, d) Peru balsam, e) Tolu balsam, f) benzoin resins, g) Canada balsam, h) copal resins (particularly kauri copal resins, copal resins from Manila, West African copals such as Congolese, Angolan or Cameroonian copals, East African copals such as Zanzibari or Madagascan copals, South American copals such as Brazilian or Colombian copals), i) damars, j) elemis, k) frankincenses, l) galbanums, m) labdanums, n) mastics, o) myrrh, p) sandarac, q) shellacs, r) styrax (storax), s) Venice turpentine (larch, turpentine essence), t) rosins, particularly rosin, rosinate and tall oils, v) resins extracted from plant waxes, and mixtures of these resins.Preferably, the natural resin(s) used according to the invention are chosen from j), k), t) and v), it being understood that the resin(s) of the invention can be esterified, salified, can form adducts, can be phenol-modified, and / or dimerized and / or additionally hydrogenated.j) Elemis“Elemis” is a generic term to define the group of recent natural resins derived from plants of the Burseraceae family (Canarium indicum). Each type is described according to its country of origin. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the elemi resin used originates from the Philippines, particularly Manila elemi. To extract it, the trees are cut and a flow of pathological resin appears, which solidifies over time. The elemis are yellowish to greenish in colour, opaque, similar to a pomade, slimy, tacky and solidify into brownish resins scattered with crystals.Elemis are soluble in aromatic solvents, in alcohols, esters and carbon disulfide; and less soluble in aliphatic solvents. Elemis have an acid number of between 18 and 34, a saponification number of between 25 and 60, and a softening point of approx. 80. Balsams which exude elemis contain up to 30% of essential oils.According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) of the invention are chosen from elemis, particularly the elemi originating from the Canarium luzonicum family, in pure form or mixed with a latex, for example. Mention may be made of the Canarium luzonicum elemi resin sold under the name ELEMI RESIN.k) FrankincensesFrankincenses are present in the United Arab Emirates, Oman, Somalia, Ethiopia and Eastern India. Frankincense resins are recent and are taken from the Boswellia carterii tree frankincense. Amazonian frankincense resins also exist. The bark is intentionally injured in order to obtain a milky extract which is recovered after drying. Preferably, the resin(s) of the invention are chosen from frankincenses, particularly Amazonian frankincenses.Frankincense resins are pale yellow and form irregular round or globular beads. They generally contain from 20% to 40% by weight (approx. 33%) of boswellic acid (C32H52O4). Frankincenses have an acid number of between 30% and 50% (indirect) and are moderately soluble in ethanol in basic medium.According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) of the invention are chosen from frankincenses, particularly Amazonian frankincense resins sold under the name Protium Heptaphyllum resin, or Protium Resin, or White Breu Resin, and frankincense resins originating from the sal tree, Shorea robusta.Advantageously, the resin(s) are in a mixture with one or more fatty substances, preferably chosen from volatile or non-volatile oils. Mention may be made for example of Shorea robusta resin with sunflower seed oil (Shorea Robusta Resin, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, tocopherol: 50-75% by weight of Shorea robusta resin, 25-50% by weight of sunflower seed oil) sold under the name Kahlresin 6720, and Shorea robusta resin with octyldodecanol (Shorea robusta resin and octyldodecanol; 50-70% by weight of Shorea robusta resin, 30-50% by weight of octyldodecanol) sold by Kahlresin 6720.t) RosinsPreferably, the natural resin(s) are chosen from rosins. Rosins are recent resins from renewable resources and can be modified (for example esterified, hydrogenated, substituted).Rosin gums are preferably purified, distilled, from the balsam of various pine essences (up to 80 different species).Their composition is determined by the climate, the soil composition and other botanical and meteorological factors. For example, mention may be made of the rosins originating from Pinus austriaca (black pine) Austria, Central America, caribaea (slash pine), United States, Caribbean, densiflora Japan, elliottii United States, halepensis (Aleppo pine) Greece, Portugal, Spain, langifolia India, maritima (seashore pine) France, Spain, Portugal, massoniana (Chinese red pine) China, mercusii Indonesia, Burma, Philippines, nigra (black pine) Austria, oocarpa Central America, Honduras, palustris (swamp pine), United States, (longleaf pine), pseudostrobus Central America, Mexico, sylvestris (Scots pine) Germany, Poland, tonkinensis China, yunnanensis China.The average composition is approx. 70 to 75% rosin and 20 to 25% turpentine essence.Wood rosin [8050-09-7]Rosin originates from stumps in the USA which have remained in the ground for at least 10 years in order for the resin-rich duramen to be available.The pine stumps contain between 10% and 30% by weight (approx. 19%) of rosin, between 1% and 10% by weight (preferably 4%) of turpentine oil, between 1% and 10% by weight (preferably 4%) of resins which are insoluble in petroleum ether, between 20% and 30% by weight (preferably 23%) of water and between 40% and 60% by weight (preferably 50%) of cellulose and of lignin type.According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) are chosen from rosins.Tall oil rosins (rosin and rosinate) [8052-10-6]Tall oil rosins often contain small amounts of higher fatty acids, particularly with a carbon number of greater than or equal to 6 carbon atoms. According to one embodiment, tall oil rosins are free of oxocarboxylic acid. They are particularly soluble in organic solvents.The colophony resins of the invention in particular comprise rosin acids belonging to the terpenes. The numbering of the carbon atoms in the molecules of rosin acid is indicated using abietic acid as an example.Rosin acids have the molecular chemical formula C20H30O2and therefore belong to the diterpene family (four isoprene units). A large number of isomers of tricyclic rosin acids exist, which differ in the position of the two double bonds.Advantageously, said resin according to the invention is chosen from gum rosin, obtained by incision on live trees, wood rosin, which is extracted from pine wood or stumps, and tall oil (“tall oil rosin”), which is obtained from a by-product originating from the production of paper. Advantageously, said resin(s) comprise rosin acids, preferably predominantly chosen from acids of abietic and pimaric type, and particularly chosen from levopimaric acid, neoabietic acid, abietic acid, dehydroabietic acid, tetrahydroabietic acid, dihydroabietic acid, dextropimaric acid, isodextropimaric acid, or else palustric acid, and mixtures thereof.The rosin derivatives may be derived in particular from the polymerization, hydrogenation and / or esterification (for example with polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol, glycerol or pentaerythritol) of rosin acids. Examples that may be mentioned include the rosin esters sold under the reference Foral 85, Pentalyn H and Staybelite Ester 10 by Hercules; Sylvatac 95 and Zonester 85 by Arizona Chemical, or Unirez 3013 by Union Camp.According to one embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) are chosen from rosinates (salts of alkaline agents of rosin acids, particularly salts of alkali metals such as sodium or potassium, alkaline-earth metals such as calcium, or metals such as zinc or magnesium).According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) are chosen from rosin acid esters, particularly esters of rosin acids as defined above and of (C1-C6) alkanols, polyhydroxy(C1-C6)alkane polyols such as glycerol, pentaerythritol, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially chosen from glyceryl rosinate sold under the name Resiester Gum A 35, glyceryl rosinate as a mixture with a hydrogenated vegetable oil and / or castor seed oil (Glyceryl Rosinate, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil sold under the name EFP Biotek), pentaerythrityl rosinate sold under the name Resiester N 35 S and Resiester 80.According to another embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) are chosen from poly(carboxy)(C2-C6)alkane or poly(carboxy)(C2-C6)alkene adducts, particularly of maleic acids with rosin acids.According to another embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) are chosen from phenol-modified rosins. Particularly those modified by (C1-C4)alkylene phenols or diphenols, optionally substituted with one or more (C1-C4)alkyl groups such as methyl or tert-butyl, more particularly rosins modified by 4-tert-butylphenol and 4,4’-isopropylidenediphenol (bisphenol A).According to another embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) are chosen from dimerized rosins, particularly those in which the abietic acid is polymerized. The rosins preferably contain more than 50% of dimeric acids and are thus referred to as dimerized rosins. According to one embodiment, the rosins are polymerized and contain from 30% to 90% by weight of dimeric acid (particularly at least 40%, 60% or 80% of dimeric acids).According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) are chosen from hydrogenated rosins. The double bonds, particularly of the acids such as abietic acid, are subject to oxidation, which can be eliminated by hydrogenation. It is understood that the resin(s) of the invention can be esterified, salified, adducts, phenol-modified, and / or dimerized and additionally hydrogenated.According to a preferred embodiment, the resin contains at least one ester of rosin acid chosen from the group constituted of glyceryl rosinate, pentaerythrityl rosinate, silicone rosinate, diethylene glycol rosinate, hydrogenated rosinate dilinoleyl dimer, dipentaerythrityl hexahydroxystearate / hexastearate / hexarosinate, glyceryl dibehenate / hydrogenated rosinate, glyceryl diisostearate / hydrogenated rosinate, trihydrogenated glyceryl rosinate, glycol rosinate, hydrogenated methyl rosinate, methyl rosinate, hydrogenated pentaerythrityl rosinate, hydrogenated triethylene glycol rosinate, and mixtures thereof.According to a particular embodiment, the resin(s) of the invention are chosen from hydrogenated pentaerythrityl rosinate (Pentaerythrityl Hydrogenated Rosinate) and methyl hydrogenated rosinate (Methyl Hydrogenated Rosinate) sold under the name Symrise BIO4326.Furthermore, the resin(s) of the invention may be mixed with fatty substances, especially waxes or butters. Mention may be made of mixtures of glyceryl rosinate with one or more fatty substances chosen especially from waxes or butters, for instance the mixture with shea butter or olive oil such as (Glyceryl Rosinate, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Glyceryl Rosinate, Olea Europaea (Olive) Oil Unsaponifiables Glyceryl Rosinate, Olea Europaea (Olive) Oil Unsaponifiables, sold by Shea Butter & Glyceryl Rosinate & Oils.v) Resins extracted from plant waxesNatural plant waxesper seare not considered resins. Although they are among the substances secreted / excreted by plants and naturally contain a very low content of resins, they contain less than 30% by weight of terpenes relative to the total weight of wax. For example, carnauba wax is secreted naturally by the leaves of a palm tree, Copernica cerifera, to prevent the leaves from dehydrating. Candelilla wax is obtained from a shrub named Euphorbia antisyphilitica which originates from northern Mexico. The wax protects the plant from its environment and prevents excessive evaporation. For example, candelilla wax is composed mainly of hydrocarbons (approximately 50%, chains from 29 to 33 carbon atoms), of higher-molecular-weight esters (20% to 29%), of free acids (7% to 9%) and of resins (12-14%, mainly triterpenic esters).Nevertheless, the definition of “natural resins” for the purposes of the present invention also includes resins resulting from plant waxes, when they have been concentrated, isolated or extracted beforehand from these waxes, as long as the resinous or terpenic ingredient in question contains the minimal content of terpenes (30% by weight relative to the total weight of the ingredient) required by the present invention. Mention may particularly be made of candelilla resin (pure 100% resin, extracted from the corresponding wax) having the INCI name: Euphorbia Cerifera (Candellila) Wax Extract, sold under the name Candelilla Resin E-1 by Japan Natural Products. Document WO2013 / 147113 A1 also refers to carnauba resin, a terpenic resin extracted from carnauba wax which has similar physical properties to those of the natural resins conventionally described, such as a softening temperature and not a melting temperature, which distinguishes a resin from a wax.The resins have a softening point and a glass transition temperature, but not a melting temperature.The opposite applies for waxes, which have a melting temperature.The resin(s) are preferably chosen from resin(s) j), k), and t) as defined previously, and resins v) extracted from waxes, particularly candelilla or carnauba wax and mixtures thereof.According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) are chosen from the following references, indicated by their INCI name, used alone or as a mixture:- resins extracted from plant waxes (resins of type v), preferably extracts of Euphorbia cerifera (Candelilla) wax, especially such as Candelilla Resin E-1 sold by Japan Natural Products, Botanical Resin sold by Cerica Rica Noda, Towax-1F12 sold by Toa Kasei;- frankincense resins (resins of type k), preferably Protium heptaphyllum resin, or Protium resin, or White Breu resin, which may be sold, for example, by Citroleo or Ephyla;- frankincense resins originating from the sal tree, Shorea Robusta Resin. The resin(s) may be in a mixture with one or more fatty substances, preferably chosen from volatile or non-volatile oils. Mention may be made for example of Shorea robusta resin with sunflower seed oil (Shorea Robusta Resin, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, tocopherol: 50-75% by weight of Shorea robusta resin, 25-50% by weight of sunflower seed oil) sold under the name Kahlresin 6720, and Shorea robusta resin with octyldodecanol (Shorea robusta resin and octyldodecanol; 50-70% by weight of Shorea robusta resin, 30-50% by weight of octyldodecanol) sold by Kahlresin 6720 (resin of type k); and- rosins (resins of type t), preferably rosin acid esters, such as Glyceryl Rosinate sold under the name Resiester Gum A 35, glyceryl rosinate as a mixture with a hydrogenated vegetable oil and / or castor seed oil (Glyceryl Rosinate, Ricinus communis Seed Oil, hydrogenated vegetable oil sold under the name EFP Biotek), pentaerythrityl rosinate sold under the name Resiester N 35 S and Resiester 80 or hydrogenated rosinates such as hydrogenated pentaerythrityl rosinate (Pentaerythrityl Hydrogenated Rosinate) or hydrogenated methyl rosinate (Methyl Hydrogenated Rosinate) sold under the name Symrise BIO4326.According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) are chosen from resins extracted from Euphorbia cerifera (Candelilla) wax, frankincense resins, such as Protium heptaphyllum resin, or Protium resin, or White Breu resin, frankincense resins originating from the sal tree, such as Shorea robusta resin and glyceryl rosinate. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) are chosen from resins extracted from Euphorbia cerifera (Candelilla) wax, frankincense resins, such as Protium heptaphyllum resin, or Protium resin, or White Breu resin and frankincense resins originating from the sal tree, such as the Shorea robusta resin.According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) are chosen from Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax Extract.Advantageously, the resin(s) is (are) present in the composition of the invention according to a content, expressed as active material, ranging from 1% to 30% by weight and preferably from 3% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.ALKYLCELLULOSEThe composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one alkylcellulose, the alkyl part of which is a C2-C3alkyl part, and preferably ethylcellulose.Ethylcellulose is a cellulose alkyl ether comprising a chain formed from β-anhydroglucose units linked together via acetal bonds. Each anhydroglucose unit contains three replaceable hydroxyl groups, all or some of these hydroxyl groups being able to react according to the following reaction:RONa + R’Cl ROR’ + NaCl, where R represents a cellulose radical and R’ represents an ethyl or propyl radical, preferably ethyl radical.Total substitution of the three hydroxyl groups would result, for each anhydroglucose unit, in a degree of substitution of 3, in other words in a content of alkoxy groups of 54.88%.The ethylcellulose polymers used in a cosmetic composition according to the invention are preferentially polymers with a degree of substitution with ethoxy groups ranging from 2.5 to 2.6 per anhydroglucose unit, in other words comprising a content of ethoxy groups ranging from 44% to 50%.The alkylcellulose, in particular ethylcellulose, used in the composition according to the invention is more particularly in pulverulent form.It is sold, for example, under the trade names Ethocel Standard from Dow Chemicals, notably including Ethocel Standard 7 FP Premium and Ethocel Standard 100 FP Premium. Other commercially available products, such as those sold by Ashland, Inc. under the trade names Aqualon EC type-K, type-N and type-T, preferably type-N, such as N7, N100, are particularly suitable for performing the invention.Advantageously, the content of alkylcellulose, preferably of ethylcellulose, expressed as active material, ranges from 1% to 20% by weight and preferably from 3% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.VOLATILE SOLVENTSThe composition in accordance with the present invention comprises at least one volatile solvent.In the context of the invention, the term “volatile solvent” means a compound that is liquid at ambient temperature (20°C) and at atmospheric pressure (1.013×105Pa), having a vapour pressure at 20°C ranging from 0.13 Pa to 13 000 Pa and preferentially ranging from 0.5 Pa to 8000 Pa.Among the volatile solvents, mention may be made of:- monoalcohols comprising from 2 to 6 carbon atoms;volatile oils chosen from non-polar hydrocarbon-based oils and silicone oils, or mixtures thereof;- mixtures thereof.According to a particular form of the invention, the volatile solvent is chosen from:- monoalcohols comprising from 2 to 6 carbon atoms;- non-polar hydrocarbon-based volatile oils, or mixtures thereof;- mixtures thereof.Preferably, the composition comprises, as volatile solvents, at least one C2-C6monoalcohol and at least one non-polar hydrocarbon-based volatile oil.C2-C6 monoalcoholAs indicated previously, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one C2-C6and more particularly C2-C4monoalcohol, which is preferably saturated. The monoalcohol(s) may be represented, for example, by the formula RaOH, in which Ra represents a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms. As monoalcohol, mention may be made of ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or butanol, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, said monoalcohol comprises at least ethanol and even more preferentially the monoalcohol is ethanol.According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the monoalcohol content represents from 1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 5% to 35% by weight, more particularly from 5% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Volatile oilsThe composition may also comprise at least one hydrocarbon-based or silicone volatile oil, and also mixtures thereof.The term “oil” means any lipophilic compound that is in liquid form at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure.The volatile oil(s) are chosen from non-polar hydrocarbon-based oils and silicone oils, alone or as a mixture.For the purposes of the invention, the term “volatile oil” refers to any oil that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, liquid at ambient temperature, having in particular a non-zero vapour pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapour pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 13000 Pa, and preferentially ranging from 0.5 Pa to 8000 Pa (OCDE standard 104).The term “non-polar hydrocarbon-based oil” means an oil chosen from hydrocarbons, that is to say from compounds comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms.The term “silicone oil” denotes an oil comprising at least one Si-O group, and more particularly an organopolysiloxane.The non-polar hydrocarbon-based volatile oils that may be used in the context of the invention are more particularly chosen from linear or branched, preferably saturated, oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.The volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may be used in the compositions according to the invention may thus be chosen from volatile linear alkanes comprising from 8 to 14 carbon atoms.As examples of linear alkanes, in particular C8-C14alkanes, mention may be made of n-octane (C8), n-nonane (C9), n-decane (C10), n-undecane (C11), n-dodecane (C12) and n-tridecane (C13), and mixtures thereof. Mention may notably be made of n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol under the references, respectively, Parafol 12-97® and Parafol 14-97®, and also mixtures thereof. According to another embodiment, use may be made of a mixture of n-dodecane and n-tetradecane, and in particular the dodecane / tetradecane mixture sold by Biosynthis under the reference Vegelight 1214®. According to yet another embodiment, use may also be made of a mixture of volatile linear C9-C12 alkanes of INCI name: C9-12 Alkane, such as the product sold by Biosynthis under the reference Vegelight Silk®. According to yet another embodiment, use may be made of a mixture of n-undecane (C11) and of n-tridecane (C13) as obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of patent application WO 2008 / 155 059 from Cognis and such as the product sold under the trade name Cetiol Ultimate® by BASF.Mention may also be made of the alkanes described in the Cognis patent applications WO 2007 / 068 371 or WO 2008 / 155 059 (mixtures of different alkanes differing by at least one carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, which are themselves obtained from coconut kernel oil or palm oil.The volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that can be used in the compositions according to the invention may be chosen from branched C8-C16alkanes. Mention may notably be made of C8-C16isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane and, for example, the oils sold under the Isopar® or Permethyl® trade names.As examples of volatile silicone oils that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of volatile silicone oils, such as linear or cyclic volatile silicone oils notably containing from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally including alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oils that may be used in the invention, mention may notably be made of myoctamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the volatile oil is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, even more particularly chosen from branched C8-C16alkanes and from linear C8-C14alkanes, and also mixtures thereof, and in particular isododecane, the mixture of volatile linear C9-C12alkanes and the mixture of n-undecane (C11) and of n-tridecane (C13), and mixtures thereof.Preferably, the content of volatile oil(s), preferably hydrocarbon-based volatile oil(s), represents from 1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 5% to 35% by weight and more particularly from 5% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Preferably, if the composition comprises at least one volatile or non-volatile silicone oil, then their content does not exceed 5% by weight and more particularly does not exceed 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition according to the invention does not contain any.According to a preferential form of the invention, the weight ratio of the amount of volatile oil(s) to the amount of monoalcohol(s) is less than 3.5 and even more preferentially less than 1.5.NON-VOLATILE OILSThe composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, other than the abovementioned polyester, or non-volatile silicone oil, and also mixtures thereof.“Hydrocarbon-based oil” means an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally one or more functions chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether and carboxylic functions. These oils are thus different from silicone oils.The term “non-volatile oil" refers to an oil of which the vapour pressure at 20°C and at atmospheric pressure is non-zero and is less than 0.13 Pa. By way of example, the vapour pressure may be measured according to the static method or via the effusion method by isothermal thermogravimetry, depending on the vapour pressure of the oil (OECD standard 104).Polar hydrocarbon-based oilsThe term “polar hydrocarbon-based oil” means that said oils comprise, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, at least one oxygen atom. Thus, said hydrocarbon-based oil comprises at least one hydroxyl, ester, ether and / or carboxylic function.The composition according to the invention may thus comprise at least one non-volatile polar hydrocarbon-based oil, more particularly chosen from:* saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C10-C26fatty alcohols, preferably monoalcohols, which are preferably branched when they comprise at least 16 carbon atoms. More particularly, the fatty alcohol comprises from 10 to 24 carbon atoms and more preferentially from 12 to 22 carbon atoms;* ethers of formula ROR’ or carbonates of formula RO(CO)OR', in which formulae, the groups R and R’, which may be identical or different, represent a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, hydrocarbon-based group comprising not more than 16 carbon atoms, preferably a C3-C16group;* hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated vegetable oils;* optionally hydroxylated ester oils comprising from 1 to 4 ester functions, of which at least one of them, which is linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, comprises at least 8 carbon atoms;* liquid polyesters derived from the reaction of a monounsaturated or polyunsaturated dimer acid; the fatty acid comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms;* and mixtures thereof.Preferably, the oil is chosen from:- lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol and octyldodecanol, and mixtures thereof; preferably octyldodecanol;- dicaprylyl ether;- dipropyl carbonate, diethylhexyl carbonate, dicaprylyl carbonate, and C14-C15dialkyl carbonate;- castor oil, olive oil, jojoba oil, ximenia oil, pracaxi oil, wheat germ oil, corn oil, sunflower oil, sweet almond oil, macadamia oil, apricot kernel oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, groundnut oil, cottonseed oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, sesame oil, marrow oil, avocado oil, hazelnut oil, grape seed oil, blackcurrant oil, argan oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, linseed oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, musk rose oil, the liquid fraction of shea butter and the liquid fraction of cocoa butter, and mixtures thereof;- 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, butyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, C12to C15alkyl benzoates, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, isocetyl isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl palmitate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isopropyl myristate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, diisostearyl malate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, glyceryl tris(2-decyltetradecanoate), capric / caprylic acid triglycerides, C18-36acid triglycerides, glyceryl triheptanoate, glyceryl trioctanoate, glyceryl tris(2-decyltetradecanoate), triisostearyl citrate, tridecyl stearate, tridecyl trimellitate, pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, pentaerythrityl tetrakis(2-decyltetradecanoate); isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate;- polyesters having the following INCI names: dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer, dilinoleic acid / propanediol copolymer, dimer dilinoleyl dilinoleate;- and also mixtures thereof.Non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oilsThe non-polar, non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil may be chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral, plant or synthetic origin, for instance:- liquid paraffin,- squalane, in particular of plant origin,- isoeicosane,- mixtures of saturated linear hydrocarbons, more particularly of C15-C28, such as the mixtures of which the INCI names are, for example, the following: C15-19 Alkane, C18-C21 Alkane, C21-C28 Alkane, for instance the products Gemseal 40, Gemseal 60 and Gemseal 120 sold by Total, and Emogreen L15 and L19 sold by SEPPIC,- hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polybutenes, such as for example the products of the Indopol range sold by Ineos Oligomers,- hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyisobutenes, such as for example the non-volatile compounds of the Parleam® range sold by Nippon Oil & Fat,- hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polydecenes, such as for example the non-volatile compounds of the Silkflo range sold by Ineos, and Dekanex by IMCD,- and mixtures thereof.Preferably, if the composition comprises any, the non-volatile oil is chosen from polar hydrocarbon-based oils, alone or as mixtures, other than the abovementioned polyester, in particular chosen from alcohol oils and ester oils. In accordance with an even more preferred embodiment, if the composition comprises any, the polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s), is / are chosen from octyldodecanol, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated vegetable oils, ester oils, which are optionally hydroxylated, comprising 1 to 4 ester functions, at least one of which is linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, comprises at least 8 carbon atoms. According to a preferred embodiment, the non-volatile oil is chosen from octyldodecanol, triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and more particularly a caprylic / capric acid triglyceride (INCI name: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride), and also vegetable oils.Non-volatile silicone oilsThe composition according to the invention may comprise at least one phenylated silicone non-volatile oil, optionally comprising at least one dimethicone fragment, or comprising at least one non-phenylated silicone non-volatile oil, or mixtures thereof.The term “phenylated” specifies that said oil includes, in its structure, at least one phenyl radical.The term “dimethicone fragment” denotes a divalent siloxane group, the silicon atom of which bears two methyl radicals, this group not being located at one or both ends of the molecule. It may be represented by the following formula:-(Si(CH3)2-O)-.Preferably, the silicones do not contain a C2-C3alkylene oxide group or a glycerolated group.As non-volatile phenylated oil comprising at least one dimethicone fragment, mention may be made of the oils having the following INCI names: Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone, Diphenyl Dimethicone, Tetramethyl Tetraphenyl Trisiloxane and also mixtures thereof, preferably Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone. The Diphenyl Dimethicones are notably sold by Shin-Etsu under the names KF-54, KF54HV, KF-50-300CS, KF-53 d and KF-50-100CS. The Trimethylsiloxy Phenyl Dimethicones are sold, for example, by Wacker Chemie under the names Belsil PDM 1000 and Belsil PDM 20.Among the non-volatile phenylated silicone oils not containing a dimethicone fragment, mention may be made of the compounds having the following INCI names: Phenyltrimethicone, Trimethyl Pentaphenyl Trisiloxane, alone or as mixtures. As non-volatile, non-phenylated silicone oils that are suitable for performing the invention, mention may be made of those sold by Wacker under the Belsil DM range, by Dow Corning with the Xiameter PMX 200 Silicone Fluid range, and by Shin-Etsu with the KF-96 A range.Representative examples of the non-volatile non-phenylated silicone oils include polydimethylsiloxanes and alkyl dimethicones. It should be noted that the term “dimethicone” (INCI name) corresponds to a polydimethylsiloxane (chemical name). Preferably, these non-volatile, non-phenylated silicone oils are chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes and alkyl dimethicones comprising at least one C2-C24alkyl group, and also mixtures thereof. Thus, these oils may be chosen from dimethicone, cetyl dimethicone and stearyl dimethicone, alone or as mixtures. As non-volatile, non-phenylated silicone oils that are suitable for use, mention may be made of those sold by Wacker under the Belsil DM range, by Dow Corning with the Xiameter PMX 200 Silicone Fluid range, and by Shin-Etsu with the KF-96 A range. The alkyldimethicones may be sold, for example, under the trade names Abil Wax 9800 and Abil Wax 9801 from Evonik Goldschmidt, or Dowsil 2502 Cosmetic Fluid, Dowsil 2503 Cosmetic Wax, from Dow Corning; and mixtures thereof.Preferably, if the composition comprises any, the non-volatile oil is chosen from polar hydrocarbon-based oils, alone or as mixtures, other than the abovementioned polyester, in particular chosen from alcohol oils and ester oils. In accordance with an even more preferred embodiment, if the composition comprises any, the polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s), is / are chosen from octyldodecanol, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated vegetable oils, ester oils, which are optionally hydroxylated, comprising 1 to 4 ester functions, at least one of which is linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, comprises at least 8 carbon atoms. According to a preferred embodiment, the non-volatile oil is chosen from octyldodecanol, triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and more particularly a caprylic / capric acid triglyceride (INCI name: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride), and also vegetable oils.If the composition comprises any, the content of non-volatile, preferably hydrocarbon-based oil(s) ranges from 0.5% to 20% by weight, particularly from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.Preferably, if the composition comprises at least one volatile or non-volatile silicone oil, then their content does not exceed 5% by weight and more particularly does not exceed 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition according to the invention does not contain any.Preferably, the weight ratio of the total amount of non-volatile oil(s) to the amount of polyester is less than 7.WATERThe composition according to the invention may optionally comprise water.A water that is suitable for use in the invention may be a demineralized water, a floral water such as cornflower water and / or a mineral water such as Vittel water, Lucas water or La Roche Posay water and / or a spring water.According to a particular embodiment of the invention, if the composition according to the invention comprises water, its content is less than 20% by weight, more particularly less than 15% by weight and preferably less than 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.DYESTUFFSThe composition according to the invention comprises at least one dyestuff.According to a particular form of the invention, the dyestuff may be chosen from pulverulent dyestuffs,fat-soluble dyes, water-soluble dyes and mixtures thereof.Pulverulent dyestuffsThe pulverulent dyestuffs can be chosen from inorganic pigments, organic pigments, pearlescent agents and mixtures thereof.The term “pigments” means white or coloured, mineral or organic particles, which are insoluble in an aqueous medium, and which are intended to colour and / or opacify the resulting composition and / or deposit. These pigments may be white or coloured, and mineral and / or organic.According to a particular embodiment, the pigments used according to the invention are chosen from mineral pigments.The term "mineral pigment" is understood to mean any pigment which corresponds to the definition of Ullmann's Encyclopedia in the chapter on inorganic pigments. Mention may be made, among the mineral pigments of use in the present invention, of zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, and also zinc oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide and metal powders, such as aluminium powder and copper powder. The following mineral pigments may also be used: Ta2O5, Ti3O5, Ti2O3, TiO, ZrO2as a mixture with TiO2, ZrO2, Nb2O5, CeO2, ZnS.The size of the pigment of use in the context of the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and can range up to 10 µm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 µm and more preferentially from 300 nm to 1 µm.According to a particular form of the invention, the pigments exhibit a size characterized by a D
[0050] of greater than 100 nm and which can range up to 10 µm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 µm and more preferentially from 300 nm to 1 µm.The sizes are measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyser of Mastersizer 3000® type from Malvern, which makes it possible to determine the particle size distribution of all of the particles over a wide range which can extend from 0.01 µm to 1000 µm. The data are processed on the basis of the conventional Mie scattering theory. This theory is the most suitable for size distributions ranging from the submicronic to the multimicronic; it makes it possible to determine an “effective” particle diameter. This theory is notably described in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C.,Light Scattering by Small Particles, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.D
[0050] represents the maximum size exhibited by 50% by volume of the particles.According to a particular form of the invention, the mineral pigment comprises a lipophilic or hydrophobic coating, said coating preferably being present in the oily phase of the composition according to the invention.According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments may be coated according to the invention with at least one compound chosen from metal soaps; N-acylamino acids or salts thereof; lecithin and derivatives thereof; isopropyl triisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural plant or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.According to a preferential embodiment, the pigments can be coated according to the invention with an N-acylamino acid or one of its salts which can comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group.The amino acid can, for example, be lysine, glutamic acid or alanine. The salts of these compounds can be the aluminium, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts. Thus, according to a particularly preferred embodiment, the pigments can be coated with an N-acylamino acid derivative which can in particular be a glutamic acid derivative and / or one of its salts, and more particularly a stearoyl glutamate, such as, for example, aluminium stearoyl glutamate. As examples of pigments treated with aluminium stearoyl glutamate, mention may be made of titanium dioxide pigments and black, red and yellow iron oxide pigments sold under the trade name NAI® by Miyoshi Kasei.According to a preferential embodiment, the pigments can be coated according to the invention with isopropyl titanium triisostearate. As examples of isopropyl titanium triisostearate (ITT)-treated pigments, mention may be made of titanium dioxide pigments and the black, red and yellow iron oxides sold under the trade names BWBO-I2® (iron oxide CI77499 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate), BWYO-I2® (iron oxide CI77492 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate) and BWRO-I2® (iron oxide CI77491 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate) by Kobo.The pigments which can be used according to the invention can also be organic pigments.The term "organic pigment" is understood to mean any pigment that satisfies the definition in Ullmann's Encyclopedia in the chapter on organic pigments. The organic pigment may in particular be chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal-complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane or quinophthalone compounds.The organic pigment(s) can be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments codified in the Colour Index under the references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100 and 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Colour Index under the references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000 and 47005, the green pigments codified in the Colour Index under the references CI 61565, 61570 and 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Colour Index under the references CI 11725, 15510, 45370 and 71105, the red pigments codified in the Colour Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915 and 75470, and the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole or phenol derivatives as are described in patent FR 2 679 771.These pigments can also be in the form of composite pigments as are described in the patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments may notably be composed of particles including a mineral core at least partially covered with an organic pigment and at least one binder for fixing the organic pigments to the core.The pigment may also be a lake. The term "lake" is understood to mean insolubilized dyes adsorbed on insoluble particles, the assembly thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.The inorganic substrates onto which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminium borosilicate, and aluminium.Mention may be made, among the organic dyes, of cochineal carmine. Mention may also be made of the products known under the following names: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green 5 (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 10 (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).Mention may be made, by way of an example of a lake, of the product known under the name D&C Red 7 (CI 15 850:1).Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one pulverulent dyestuff of inorganic pigment type, in particular chosen from metal oxides, and more particularly chosen from titanium dioxides or iron oxides, which are or not coated, and mixtures thereof.The pearlescent agents can be chosen from white pearlescent pigments, such as mica covered with titanium or with bismuth oxychloride, coloured pearlescent pigments, such as titanium oxide-coated mica with iron oxides, titanium oxide-coated mica in particular with ferric blue or chromium oxide, or titanium oxide-coated mica with an organic pigment of the abovementioned type, and also pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.Preferably, the pulverulent dyestuff(s) is (are) preferably present in the composition in a content ranging from 3% to 25% by weight, preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, more particularly from 8% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Water-soluble or fat-soluble dyestuffsA composition according to the invention can comprise at least one water-soluble or fat-soluble dyestuff and preferably in a proportion of at least 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.For obvious reasons, this amount is liable to vary significantly with regard to the desired intensity of the colour effect and to the colour intensity provided by the dyestuffs under consideration, and its adjustment clearly falls within the competence of a person skilled in the art.The additional dyestuffs that are suitable for use in the invention may be fat soluble.For the purposes of the invention, the term “fat-soluble dyestuff” means any natural or synthetic, generally organic compound, which is soluble in an oily phase or in solvents that are miscible with a fatty substance, and which is capable of imparting colour.As fat-soluble dyes that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may notably be made of synthetic or natural fat-soluble dyes, for instance DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan red, carotenes (β-carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan brown, quinoline yellow, annatto and curcumin.The additional dyestuffs that are suitable for use in the invention may be water-soluble.For the purposes of the invention, the term “water-soluble dyestuff” means any natural or synthetic, generally organic compound, which is soluble in an aqueous phase or water-miscible solvents and which is capable of imparting colour.As water-soluble dyes that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made notably of synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes, for instance FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1, betanine (beetroot), carmine, copper chlorophyllin, methylene blue, anthocyanins (enocianin, black carrot, hibiscus, elder), caramel and riboflavin.The water-soluble or fat-soluble dye(s), if the composition comprises any, are preferably present in contents of less than 4% by weight, or even less than 2% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 0.01% to 2% by weight and better still from 0.02% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.COSMETIC ADDITIVESThe compositions according to the invention may comprise additives commonly used in skincare and / or makeup products, such as active agents such as vitamins, for example vitamins A, E, C and B3, adenosine, hyaluronic acid and salts thereof; UV-screening agents; fillers; waxes; pasty compounds; hydrophilic gelling agents; film-forming agents other than alkylcellulose (in particular ethylcellulose); lipophilic gelling agents; fragrances; preserving agents; and mixtures thereof.Although this does not correspond to a preferred variant of the invention, the composition may optionally comprise one or more silicone polymers, for instance silicone resins, silicone acrylate copolymers, silicone polyamides, and combinations thereof.Among the silicone resins, examples that may be mentioned include the resins having the following INCI names: Trimethylsiloxysilicate, phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate, polymethyl silsesquioxane, the MQT-propyl resins, especially described and prepared in patent application WO 2005 / 075542. Mention may also be made of C30-45 Alkyldimethylsilyl Polypropylsilsesquioxane (INCI name).Among the silicone-acrylate copolymers, which may or may not be dendrimer copolymers, mention may be made, for example, of the copolymers having the INCI name Acrylates / Polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate Copolymer; Acrylates / Dimethicone Copolymer.As regards the acrylamide-silicone copolymers, mention may be made especially of the copolymer having the INCI name Nylon-611 / Dimethicone Copolymer.If the composition comprises any, the content of volatile or non-volatile silicone polymer(s) does not exceed 5% by weight and more particularly does not exceed 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition according to the invention does not contain any.In accordance with a particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, if the composition comprises any, the content of silicone compound(s) (volatile or non-volatile oils, silicone polymers as mentioned previously) does not exceed 5% by weight, more particularly does not exceed 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition according to the invention does not comprise any silicone compound.It is a matter of routine practice for a person skilled in the art to adjust the nature and amount of the additives present in the compositions in accordance with the invention such that the desired cosmetic properties thereof are not thereby affected.Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional additional additives and / or the amount thereof such that the advantageous properties of the compositions according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.FillersThe compositions in accordance with the invention may thus comprise at least one filler, notably making it possible to give them additional properties in terms of improved mattness, coverage, wear performance and / or stability.The term “filler” should be understood as meaning colourless or white solid particles of any shape which are provided in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition. These particles give body or rigidity to the composition and / or softness and uniformity to the makeup.The fillers may be mineral or organic.Preferably, they may be chosen from natural fillers or fillers of natural origin.The term “natural compound” means a compound that is obtained directly from the earth or the soil, or from plants or animals, via, where appropriate, one or more physical processes, for instance milling, refining, distillation, purification or filtration.The term “compound of natural origin” means a natural compound that has undergone one or more additional chemical or industrial treatments, giving rise to modifications that do not affect the essential qualities of this compound and / or a compound predominantly comprising natural constituents that may or may not have undergone transformations. As non-limiting examples of additional chemical or industrial treatments bringing about modifications which do not affect the essential qualities of a natural compound, mention may be made of those permitted by the controlling bodies, such as Ecocert (Reference system for biological and ecological cosmetic products, January 2003), or defined in handbooks recognized in the field, such as “Cosmetics and Toiletries Magazine”, 2005, volume 120, 9: 10.The fillers used in the compositions according to the present invention may be of lamellar, globular, spherical or fibrous forms or of any other form intermediate between these defined forms.The fillers according to the invention may or may not be surface-coated, and in particular they may be surface-treated with amino acids or any other substance that promotes the dispersion and compatibility of the filler in the composition.Mineral fillersExamples of mineral fillers that may be mentioned include talcs, natural or synthetic micas such as synthetic fluorphlogopites, silica, hydrophobic silica aerogels, hollow silica microspheres, kaolin, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, bismuth oxychloride, glass or ceramic microcapsules, or composites of silica and of titanium dioxide, such as the TSG® series sold by Nippon Sheet Glass.Organic fillersAs examples of organic fillers, mention may be made of micronized natural waxes; metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate or magnesium myristate; lauroyl lysine; or cellulose powders, such as the product sold by Daito under the name Cellulobeads®.Preferably, the filler(s) are present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, more particularly from 3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.WaxesThe composition according to the invention may comprise at least one polar or non-polar hydrocarbon-based wax.For the purposes of the present invention, the term “wax” means a lipophilic compound, which is solid at ambient temperature, with a reversible solid / liquid change of state, which has a melting point of greater than or equal to 30°C that may be up to 120°C.For the purposes of the invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis (DSC) as described in the ISO 11357-3; 1999 standard. The melting point of the wax may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC Q2000 by TA Instruments with the TA Universal Analysis software.The measuring protocol is as follows:A sample of 5 mg of wax is placed in a crucible and subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 120°C, at a heating rate of 10°C / minute, is then cooled from 120°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C / minute and is lastly subjected to a second temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 120°C at a heating rate of 5°C / minute.During the second temperature rise, the melting point of the solid fatty substance is measured, which corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed of the melting curve, representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.The enthalpy of fusion of the wax (∆Hf), corresponding to the integral of the entire melting curve obtained, may also be measured. This enthalpy of fusion of the wax is the amount of energy required to cause the compound to change from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J / g.The waxes may be of plant, mineral, animal and / or synthetic origin.In particular, the waxes have a melting point preferably greater than or equal to 35°C and better still greater than or equal to 40°C.Non-polar waxesFor the purposes of the present invention, the term "non-polar hydrocarbon-based wax" means a wax constituted solely of carbon atoms and hydrogen atoms and free of heteroatoms, for instance N, O, Si, P, etc.Mention may in particular be made, by way of examples of non-polar waxes suitable for the invention, of hydrocarbon waxes, for instance microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, polymethylene waxes, polyethylene waxes and microwaxes, in particular of polyethylene.Polar waxesThe polar waxes may notably be hydrocarbon-based or silicone waxes.For the purposes of the present invention, the term “polar hydrocarbon-based wax” is intended to mean a wax of which the chemical structure is formed essentially of, or even constituted of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and which comprises at least one heteroatom more particularly chosen from oxygen, optionally nitrogen, or mixtures thereof. It may thus contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.The term “silicone wax” means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom and notably comprising Si-O groups.According to a first preferred embodiment, the polar wax is a hydrocarbon-based wax.A wax chosen from ester waxes and alcohol waxes is in particular preferred as polar hydrocarbon-based wax.According to the invention, the term "ester wax" is understood to mean a wax comprising at least one ester function. The ester waxes may also be hydroxylated.According to the invention, the term “alcohol wax” means a wax comprising at least one alcohol function, i.e. comprising at least one free hydroxyl (OH) group.Use may notably be made, as ester wax, alone or as mixtures, of:i) waxes of formula R1COOR2in which R1and R2represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains, the number of atoms of which ranges from 6 to 50, in particular from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom, such as for example O or N, and the melting point of which ranges more particularly from 30 to 120°C. In particular, use may be made, as ester wax, of a C20-C40alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture, or a C20-C40alkyl stearate. Such waxes are notably sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P®, Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®, Kester Wax K 80 P®or Kester Wax K82H by Koster Keunen. Use may also be made of stearyl heptanoate and stearyl caprylate and mixtures thereof;ii) bis(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate;iii) diester waxes of a dicarboxylic acid of general formulaR3-(-OCO-R4-COO-R5), in which R3and R5are identical or different, preferably identical, and represent a C4-C30alkyl group and R4represents a linear or branched aliphatic C4-C30group which may or may not contain one or more unsaturations. Preferably, the C4-C30aliphatic group is linear and unsaturated;iv) mention may also be made of the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils notably containing linear or branched C8-C32fatty chains, for instance hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil or hydrogenated coconut kernel oil, and also the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold in the Phytowax Castor range, for example Phytowax Castor 22L73®, or else the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol, such as those of the Phytowax Olive range, for example Phytowax Olive 18L57, sold by Sophim. Such waxes are especially described in patent application FR 2 792 190;v) waxes corresponding to the partial or total esters, preferably total esters, of a saturated, optionally hydroxylated, C16-C30carboxylic acid with glycerol. The term "total esters" is understood to mean that all the hydroxyl functions of the glycerol are esterified. Examples that may be mentioned include trihydroxystearin (or glyceryl trihydroxystearate), tristearin (or glyceryl tristearate) and tribehenin (or glyceryl tribehenate), alone or as a mixture. Among the suitable compounds, mention may be made of triesters of glycerol and of 12-hydroxystearic acid, or hydrogenated castor oil, for instance Thixcin R and Thixcin E sold by Elementis Specialties;v) mention may also be made of waxes of animal or plant origin, such as beeswax, synthetic beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, rice bran wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, cork fibre wax, sugar cane wax, Japan wax, sumac wax, montan wax, orange wax, laurel wax, or sunflower wax, in particular refined sunflower wax;vii) mention may also be made of natural or synthetic polyoxyalkylenated or polyglycerolated hydrocarbon waxes, of animal or plant origin; the number of (C2-C4) oxyalkylene units may range from 2 to 100, the number of glycerol units may range from 1 to 20. Examples that may be mentioned include polyoxyethylenated beeswaxes, such as PEG-6 beeswax or PEG-8 beeswax; polyoxyethylenated carnauba waxes, such as PEG-12 carnauba; polyoxyethylenated or polyoxypropylenated and hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated lanolin waxes, such as PEG-30 lanolin or PEG-75 lanolin; PPG-5 lanolin wax glyceride; polyglycerolated beeswaxes, notably polyglyceryl-3 beeswax, the Acacia Decurrens / Jojoba / Sunflower Seed Wax / Polyglyceryl-3 Esters mixture, polyglycerolated plant waxes, such as mimosa, jojoba or sunflower waxes, and mixtures thereof (Acacia Decurrens / Jojoba / Sunflower Seed Wax Polyglyceryl-3 Esters).According to another embodiment, the polar wax may be an alcohol wax. As alcohol waxes, mention may be made of mixtures of saturated linear C30-C50alcohols, for instance the wax Performacol 550 Alcohol from New Phase Technologies, stearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol, or mixtures thereof.Preferably, if the composition comprises any, the wax is chosen from hydrocarbon waxes. More particularly, it is chosen from non-polar waxes; polar hydrocarbon-based waxes such as waxes of animal or plant origin, waxes of animal or plant origin obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils; alcohol waxes; and also mixtures thereof; and preferably from non-polar hydrocarbon-based waxes, alone or as mixtures.The wax content, if the composition comprises any, advantageously ranges from 1% to 20% by weight, in particular from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Pasty compoundsThe composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one compound which is pasty at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.For the purposes of the present invention, the term “pasty” refers to a lipophilic compound with a reversible solid / liquid change of state, notably having in the solid state an anisotropic crystal organization, and comprising at ambient temperature a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.In other words, the starting melting point of the pasty compound may be lower than ambient temperature. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound, measured at ambient temperature, may represent 9% to 97% by weight of the pasty compound. This fraction that is liquid at ambient temperature preferably represents between 15% and 85%, more preferably between 40% and 85%, by weight.The melting point of the pasty fatty substance is determined according to the same principle as that described in detail previously for the waxes.In the case of a pasty compound, the measurement protocol is, however, as follows:A sample of 5 mg of pasty fatty substance placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 10°C / minute, is then cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C / minute and is finally subjected to a second temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C / minute.The melting point of the pasty fatty substance is the value of the temperature corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.It should be noted that the liquid fraction by weight of the pasty fatty substance at ambient temperature is equal to the ratio of the heat of fusion consumed at ambient temperature to the heat of fusion of the pasty fatty substance.The heat of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is the heat consumed by said substance in order to pass from the solid state to the liquid state. The pasty fatty substance is said to be in the solid state when all of its mass is in crystalline solid form. The pasty fatty substance is said to be in the liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form.The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is the amount of energy required to cause the pasty fatty substance to change from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J / g. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained.The pasty compound may in particular be chosen from synthetic pasty compounds and fatty substances of plant origin.The pasty compound(s) may in particular be chosen from:- lanolin and derivatives thereof, such as lanolin alcohol, oxyethylenated lanolins, acetylated lanolin, lanolin esters such as isopropyl lanolate, and oxypropylenated lanolins,- petroleum jelly (also known as petrolatum),- ethers of pentaerythritol and of C2-C4polyalkylene glycol, for example the compounds having the INCI names below: PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, and mixtures thereof. Mention may be made, for example, of the mixture sold under the name Lanolide by Vevy,- fat-soluble polyethers resulting from polyetherification between one or more C2-C100and preferably C2-C50diols. Among the fat-soluble polyethers, consideration is given in particular to copolymers of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide with long-chain C6-C30alkylene oxides, more preferably such that the weight ratio of the ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide to alkylene oxides in the copolymer is from 5:95 to 70:30. In this family, mention will notably be made of the product having the INCI name PEG-45 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer sold, for example, under the brand name Elfacos ST9 by Akzo Nobel,- esters resulting from the condensation of a preferably saturated, linear or branched, C6-C10dicarboxylic acid and of an ester of diglycerol and of optionally hydroxylated, preferably saturated, linear or branched, C6-C20monocarboxylic acids, in particular the diester obtained by condensation of adipic acid and of a mixture of esters of diglycerol with a mixture of C6-C20fatty acids, such as caprylic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, notably sold under the reference Softisan® 649 by Cremer Oleo (INCI name: Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2),- triglycerides of fatty acids which are optionally hydrogenated (totally or partially), saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally mono- or polyhydroxylated, preferably C12-C18; for instance the glycerides of saturated C12-C18fatty acids sold under the name Softisan 100® by Cremer Oleo (INCI name: Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides),- esters of diol dimer, or of polyol, and of diacid dimer, for instance:* esters of dimer of dilinoleyl alcohol and of dilinoleic acid, the hydroxyl groups of which are esterified with a mixture of phytosterols, of behenyl alcohol and of isostearyl alcohol, for example the ester sold under the name Plandool G by Nippon Fine Chemical (INCI name: Bis-Behenyl / Isostearyl / Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate);* esters of dilinoleic acid and of a mixture of phytosterols, of isostearyl alcohol, of cetyl alcohol, of stearyl alcohol and of behenyl alcohol, for example the ester sold under the name Plandool H or Plandool S by Nippon Fine Chemical (INCI name: Phytosteryl / Isostearyl / Cetyl / Stearyl / Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate);- butters of plant origin, such as mango butter, such as the product sold under the name Lipex 203 by Aarhuskarlshamn, shea butter, in particular the product of which the INCI name is Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, such as the product sold under the reference Sheasoft®by Aarhuskarlshamn, cupuacu butter (Rain Forest RF3410 from Beraca Sabara), murumuru butter (Rain Forest RF3710 from Beraca Sabara), cocoa butter; and also orange wax, for instance the product sold under the reference Orange Peel Wax by Koster Keunen,- totally or partially hydrogenated vegetable oils, for instance hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated coconut kernel oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, mixtures of hydrogenated vegetable oils such as the mixture of hydrogenated soybean, coconut kernel, palm and rapeseed vegetable oil, for example the mixture sold under the reference Akogel®by Aarhuskarlshamn (INCI name Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), the trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured or sold by Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, partially hydrogenated olive oil, for instance the compound sold under the reference Beurrolive by Soliance,- hydrogenated castor oil esters, such as hydrogenated castor oil dimer dilinoleate, for example Risocast-DA-L sold by Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo, and hydrogenated castor oil isostearate, for example Salacos HCIS (V-L) sold by Nisshin Oil,- and mixtures thereof.If the composition comprises at least one pasty compound, its / their content ranges from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Lipophilic gelling agentsThe composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one lipophilic gelling agent.As lipophilic gelling agents, examples that may be mentioned include lipophilic clays.The term “lipophilic clay” refers to any clay that is fat-soluble or fat-dispersible in the oily phase of the composition.Clay denotes a material based on hydrated silicates and / or aluminosilicates, of lamellar structure.The clays may be natural or synthetic, and they are made lipophilic by treatment with an alkylammonium salt such as a C10 to C22 ammonium chloride, in particular stearalkonium chloride or distearyldimethylammonium chloride.They may be chosen from bentonites, in particular bentonites, hectorites and montmorillonites, beidellites, saponites, nontronites, sepiolites, biotites, attapulgites, vermiculites and zeolites.They are preferably chosen from hectorites and bentonites.For example, use may be made of a lipophilic clay chosen from hydrophobically modified bentonites and hydrophobically modified hectorites, notably modified with a C10 to C22 quaternary ammonium chloride, such as:- a bentonite modified with stearalkonium chloride, such as the commercial products sold under the name Claytone AF®, Garamite VT®, Tixogel® LG-M, Tixogel® MP 250 Tixogel® VZ and Tixogel® VZ-V XR, by BYK Additives Inc; or the commercial products sold under the name Viscogel® B3, Viscogel® B4, Viscogel® B7, Viscogel® B8, Viscogel® ED, Viscogel® GM, Viscogel® S4 and Viscogel® SD by Bentec S.P.A;- a bentonite modified with stearalkonium chloride in the presence of at least propylene carbonate and at least one oil, such as the commercial products Dub Velvet Gum® from Stéarinerie Dubois Fils, Miglyol Gel T® from Cremer Oleo, Tixogel® CGT 6030, Tixogel® DBA 6060, Tixogel® FTN, TIXOGEL® FTN 1564, Tixogel® IPM, Tixogel® LAN, Tixogel® LAN 1563 from BYK Additives Inc.;- a hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride (INCI name: Disteardimonium Hectorite), for instance the product sold under the name Bentone® 38VCG Rheological Additive by Elementis Specialties;- a hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride in the presence of at least propylene carbonate or triethyl citrate and of at least one oil, such as the commercial products sold under the name Bentone® Gel DOA V, Bentone® Gel EUG V, Bentone® Gel IHD V, Bentone® Gel ISD V, Bentone® Gel MIO V, Bentone® Gel PTM V, Bentone® SS-71 V, Bentone® VS-5 PC V or Bentone® VS-5 by Elementis Specialities; the commercial products sold under the name Creagel Bentone CPS / Hectone CPS or Creagel Bentone ID / Hectone ID by Créations Couleurs; the commercial products sold under the name NS Gel DM1®, NS Gel PTIS® or NS MGel 1152® by Next Step Laboratories.As lipophilic gelling agents, mention may also be made of esters of dextrin and of fatty acid, in particular C12 to C24, preferably C14 to C18, fatty acid, or mixtures thereof. More preferentially, the dextrin ester is an ester of dextrin and of a C12-C18 and in particular C14-C18 fatty acid.Preferably, the lipophilic gelling agent may be present in the composition in concentrations preferably ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and more preferentially from 0.5% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.The invention also relates to a process for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or the lips, in particular the lips, in which the composition according to the invention is applied.It is also pointed out that the compositions according to the invention more particularly comprise a cosmetically (or physiologically) acceptable medium, i.e. one which has a pleasant colour, odour and feel and which does not give rise to any unacceptable discomfort, i.e. stinging, tautness or redness, that is liable to discourage the user from applying such compositions.Throughout the description, including the claims, the expression "comprising a" should be understood as being synonymous with "comprising at least one", unless otherwise specified.The expressions "between ... and ..." and "ranging from ... to ..." should be understood as meaning limits included, unless otherwise specified.In addition, the sum of the amounts of the ingredients of the composition represents 100% by weight of the composition.The invention is illustrated in greater detail by the examples presented below.The starting materials are referred to by their chemical or INCI name.EXAMPLESProtocol for measuring the viscosityThe viscosity is measured at 25°C with a sample of the composition, 24 hours after production thereof (storage at ambient temperature), using a Rheomat RM 180 viscometer equipped with a No. 2 or 3 spindle, the measurement being carried out after 10 minutes of rotation of the spindle within the formula, at a shear rate of 200 rpm.Protocol for measuring the tackThe composition is deposited on several stainless steel dishes with a depth of 100 μm and levelled as quickly as possible. The dishes are left to dry at ambient temperature for one hour.The apparatus used is a TAXT2i texture analyser. The clamp mounted on the apparatus grips an AU4G cylinder with a diameter of 6 mm, at the end of which is adhesively bonded a smooth beige synthetic skin end piece of the same diameter and with a thickness of 2 mm.The end piece is cleaned with ethanol between each measurement.More than one measurement is never taken at the same place in the deposit.The parameters of the compression tests with holding over time are indicated below:Approach speed(or pre-speed)1 mm / sSpeed(from detection of contact)0.1 mm / sForce(and corresponding pressure)0.283 N (i.e. 0.01 MPa)Holding time3 secondsWithdrawal speed(or post-speed)0.1 mm / sThe tack is characterized by the work of detachment measured during the unloading (tensile phase), corresponding to the integral of the curve under the time axis. This work is expressed positively in joules per square metre.Protocol for measuring the gloss1. The test composition is applied, by means of a BYK spreader referenced PA-5356 with a thickness of 25.4 µm, to the white part of an Erichsen contrast card referenced 0049.09.33 and the composition is left to dry for 40 minutes at 32°C in a dry oven.2. The gloss of the resulting deposit is measured at 60° using a Byk glossmeter at 3 different locations of the deposit, away from the edges of the deposit, and the average is taken.3. It is considered that the deposit is glossy if the gloss value is at least 20. The higher the value, the glossier the deposit.Protocol for measuring the wear performance and the transfer1. Preparation of the test:Support:Beige Supplale (2.5 x 5 cm) (sold by Soudotique).Spread composition (D) over the entire surface 3 times running in order to have a uniform deposit. Repeat the operation on two other strips.Allow the deposit to dry on a plate heated to 32°C for 45 minutes.If necessary, take a photo of each support with the deposit (made up) before stressing.2. Stresses:Preparation of a paper tissue for each stress:Fold each paper tissue twice along the long edge and then twice in the other direction to form a square.Dry resistance:Rub once with the folded tissue lengthwise against one of the three made-up supports; the force applied is that normally exerted when removing makeup from the skin or the lips.Observe the state of the rubbed support and the used surface of the tissue, in particular the remaining colouring and the transferred colouring.If necessary, take a photo.It should be noted that the evaluation of the resistance to transfer is carried out with this stress.If several passes are made, they should be performed with the same force and always in the same direction (i.e. after each pass, the tissue is lifted to be repositioned at the "start" of the strip so as to be reapplied on the deposit in the same way as in the previous pass). If necessary, take a photo between each step or only at the end of the evaluation. This type of process can be used to evaluate the overall resistance of the deposit.Water resistance:Insert the second made-up support, without folding it, into a centrifuge tube.Add 10 grams of demineralized water.Centrifuge for 10 minutes at 450g.If necessary, take a photo of the support after mixing, immediately after the operation.Rub once with a tissue along the length of the support, without waiting, with the same force as that applied for the dry resistance.Observe the state of the rubbed support and the used surface of the tissue, in particular the remaining colouring and the transferred colouring.If necessary, take a photo.The protocol for multiple passes is the same as that detailed above for the dry resistance.Oil resistance:Perform the same protocol as for the water resistance, on the third made-up support, replacing the water with the same amount of olive oil (Refined Olive Oil - Aarhuskarlshamn).Grading:For each stress, record the result according to the table below:GradedepositState of the depositGradefabricSurface of the fabric in contact with the deposit- -Total or partial removal of the deposit from the rubbed area; the surface of the support appears in places5Very intense colouring – very substantial to total colour transfer-Partial removal resulting in significantly and visibly less intense colouring of the deposit.4Intense colouring – substantial colour transfer+Decrease in colour intensity of the deposit which is noticeable but does not reveal the support3Medium colouring – moderate colour transfer++No substantial variation in the deposit colour2Slight colouring – little colour transfer+++No variation in the deposit colour1No colouring or barely visible colouring – very little to no colour transferEXAMPLE 11. CompositionsThe following compositions, the list of the ingredients and the percentage weight contents of which are collated in the table below, were prepared. In these compositions, the role of the polyester according to the invention (Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate) was demonstrated relative to two polyesters not included in the context of the invention (Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 and Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilinoleate):1 InventionA ComparativeB ComparativeIsododecane202020Absolute ethanol30.330.330.3Ethylcellulose(Aqualon EC N7® - Ashland)11.711.711.7Euphorbia Cerifera Cera Extract (Candelilla Resin E-1; Japan Natural Products)181818Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate (and) Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride(SolAmaze Natural® - Nouryon)10--Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2(Softisan 649® - Sasol)-10-Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilinoleate (Risocast-DA-L® - Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo)10Red 7 / CI 158501010101001001002. Preparation of the compositionsIn a beaker, mix the polyester, the isododecane and the alcohol and stir the mixture using a Rayneri deflocculator for 2 min at 500 rpm.Introduce the ethylcellulose as a fine mist into the vortex created by the deflocculator at 500 rpm and then leave stirring for 10 minutes.Once the mixture has been homogenized, introduce the previously ground candelilla resin as a fine mist, with a deflocculator at 500 rpm, and then leave stirring for 10 minutes.Finally, introduce the pigment and leave to stir for a further 5 minutes at 500 rpm.Package the resulting composition.3. Evaluation of the compositionsEach composition is stable and is easily applied to the lips as a uniform and comfortable deposit.The table below collates the results of the evaluations of dry resistance, water resistance and oil resistance as described above:Composition 1Composition AComposition BDry resistance+++++++++Water resistance+++-++Oil resistance+++----Example 21. CompositionsThe following compositions, the list of the ingredients and the percentage weight contents of which are collated in the table below, were prepared. In these compositions, the role of the polyester according to the invention (Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate) was demonstrated relative to two polyesters not included in the context of the invention (Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 and Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilinoleate) and relative to a composition which is free thereof:2 InventionC ComparativeD ComparativeF ComparativeIsododecane30303039Absolute ethanol30303030Euphorbia Cerifera Cera Extract (Candelilla Resin E-1; Japan Natural Products)10101010Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate (and) Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride(SolAmaze Natural® - Nouryon)15---Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2(Softisan 649® - Sasol)-9--Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilinoleate (Risocast-DA-L® - Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo)--9-Capric / Caprylic Triglyceride (Dub MCT; Stéarineries Dubois)5111111Red 7 / CI 15850101010101001001001002. Preparation of the compositionsIn a beaker, mix the polyester, isododecane, ethanol and capric / caprylic triglyceride and stir the mixture using a Rayneri deflocculator for 2 min at 500 rpm.Once the mixture has been homogenized, introduce the previously ground candelilla resin as a fine mist, with a deflocculator at 500 rpm, and then leave stirring for 10 minutes.Finally, introduce the pigment and leave to stir for a further 5 minutes at 500 rpm.Package the resulting composition.3. Evaluation of the compositionsEach composition is stable and is easily applied to the lips as a uniform and comfortable deposit.The table below collates the results of the evaluations of the gloss evaluated according to the protocol described in detail as described above:Composition 2Composition CComposition DComposition EGloss30129.92.7Appearance of the depositGlossySatinySatinyMattThe table below collates the results of the evaluations of the wear performance evaluated according to the protocol described in detail as described above:Composition 2Composition CComposition DComposition EWear propertyDry+++-- -With water++++++-With oil+- -- -- -Transfer3444The formula according to the invention exhibits the best compromise among the compositions tested; in particular, it systematically exhibits a better wear performance with respect to water and to oil and also better transfer resistance properties.
Claims
Cosmetic composition for making up human keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips, preferably the lips, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:- at least one natural resin;- optionally at least one alkylcellulose, the alkyl group of which is a C2-C3alkyl group, preferably ethylcellulose;- at least one polyester which is the product of reaction of components (i), (ii) and (iii) below:(i) at least one polyglycerol-3,(ii) at least one dimer acid, and(iii) at least one fatty monoacid containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms,the components (i), (ii) and (iii) reacted being in a mole ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of monofatty acid,- at least one volatile solvent chosen, alone or as mixtures, from at least one C2-C6, more particularly C2-C4, monoalcohol, preferably ethanol, at least one hydrocarbon-based or silicone volatile oil, and also mixtures thereof.Cosmetic composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the natural resin comprises at least 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of resin, of terpenic compounds, preferably at least 40% by weight of terpenic compounds, preferably at least 50% of terpenic compounds, and even more preferably at least 60% of terpenic compounds, or even better still at least 70% by weight relative to the total weight of resin.Composition according to either one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the natural resin is chosen from the following resins, alone or as a mixture:- resins extracted from plant waxes, preferably extracts of Euphorbia cerifera (candelilla) wax;- frankincense resins, preferably Protium heptaphyllum resin, or Protium resin, or White Breu resin;- frankincense resins originating from the sal tree, Shorea robusta resin, alone or as a mixture with one or more volatile or non-volatile oils, preferably Shorea robusta resin with sunflower seed oil, and Shorea robusta resin with octyldodecanol; and- rosins, preferably rosin acid esters, such as glyceryl rosinate or glyceryl rosinate as a mixture with a hydrogenated vegetable oil and / or castor seed oil, pentaerythrityl rosinate or hydrogenated rosinates such as hydrogenated pentaerythrityl rosinate or hydrogenated methyl rosinate.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the natural resin represents from 1% to 30% by weight and preferably from 3% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the alkylcellulose content represents from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 3% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyester is a product of substantially or totally non-sequential reaction.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyester is prepared by a one-step process which involves the introduction of all the reagents into a reaction vessel and subsequently the induction of an entirely random addition of the dimer acid and of the isostearic acid to the polyglycerol-3.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyglycerol-3 is triglycerol alone or a mixture of polyglycerols comprising at least triglycerol, said polyglycerols corresponding to formula (I) H[-O-Gly]n-OH, in which each Gly is independently the residue of a glycerol molecule after removal of two hydroxyl groups; and n is a mean from 2 to 10.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyglycerol-3 is in the form of a mixture and is composed of at least 40% by weight, or of at least 45% by weight, or of at least 50% by weight, of a combination of diglycerol and of triglycerol, relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyglycerol-3 is in the form of a mixture and composed of at least 20% by weight, or of at least 25% by weight, of diglycerol; at least 15% by weight, or at least 18% by weight, of triglycerol; at least 10% by weight, or at least 12% by weight, of tetraglycerol, relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyglycerol-3 is in the form of a mixture and comprises at least 25% by weight of diglycerol, at least 45% by weight of triglycerol and at least 10% by weight of tetraglycerol, relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyester is a substantially or completely nonsequential reaction product of the following components:(i) at least one polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture comprising at least 25% by weight of diglycerol, at least 45% by weight of triglycerol and at least 10% by weight of tetraglycerol, in each case relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture;(ii) at least one hydrogenated dimer acid containing at least 60% by weight of hydrogenated C36 diacid and from 5% to 25% by weight of hydrogenated C54 triacid, in each case relative to the total weight of hydrogenated acid; and(iii) isostearic acid.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyester is in an oily solution comprising:a) a polyester obtained by reaction:(i) of a polyglycerol-3; and(ii) of a hydrogenated C36 dimer acid; and(iii) of isostearic acid; the components (i), (ii) and (iii) reacted being in a mole ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and from 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of fatty acids; andb) a caprylic / capric acid triglyceride, said mixture more particularly having the INCI name: Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate (and) Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride.Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the oily solution contains the polyester in a concentration of from 10% to 99% by weight, more preferentially from 30% to 90% by weight and more particularly from 50% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the mixture.Composition according to either of Claims 13 and 14, characterized in that the oily solution comprises 40% by weight of caprylic / capric acid triglyceride and 60% by weight of polyester of polyglycerol-3, of hydrogenated C36dimer acid and of isostearic acid in a mole ratio of 1 / 0.5 / 1.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyester content, as active material, represents from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the monoalcohol content represents from 1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 5% to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the volatile oil(s) are chosen from non-polar volatile hydrocarbon-based oils and volatile silicone oils, and mixtures thereof; and preferably from branched C8-C16alkanes and linear C8-C14alkanes, and also mixtures thereof, and preferably from isododecane, undecane and tridecane, alone or as mixtures.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of volatile, preferably hydrocarbon-based, oil(s) represents from 1% to 40% by weight and preferably from 5% to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio of the amount of volatile oil(s) to the amount of monoalcohol(s) is less than 3.5 and even more preferentially less than 1.5.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the water content represents less than 20% by weight and preferably less than 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition optionally comprises at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, other than the abovementioned polyester, or silicone oil, and also mixtures thereof; preferably, at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, which is preferably polar, other than the abovementioned polyester, in particular chosen from ester oils.Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the content of non-volatile, preferably hydrocarbon-based oil(s) ranges from 0.5% to 20% by weight and preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to either of Claims 22 or 23, characterized in that the weight ratio of the total amount of non-volatile oil(s) to the amount of polyester is less than 7.Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition optionally comprises at least one volatile or non-volatile silicone oil in a content not exceeding 5% by weight and advantageously not exceeding 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; preferably, the composition is free of any.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition optionally comprises at least one silicone polymer, more particularly chosen from silicone resins, from silicone acrylate polymers, acrylamide-silicone copolymers, or mixtures thereof, in a content not exceeding 5% by weight, advantageously not exceeding 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; preferably, the composition is free of any.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition is liquid at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.Process for making up human keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips, preferably the lips, in which the composition according to any one of the preceding claims is applied.
Citation Information
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